Meet the White Portuguese Grapes from Alentejo

A few weeks ago I was sent six white wines from Portugal for review. Below is some of the information regarding the density of the grapes grown in the area and warmth of the climate – in Alentejo – as well as useful varietal descriptions. Below that are my reviews of the wines I tasted. Being that I received these in the middle of a very hot summer, I welcomed reviewing so many white wines, most of which I was unfamiliar.

From Alentejo

While many regions are still planning for climate change, Alentejo is already there, growing wines in a warmer world. Surprisingly to many, one-fifth of their production comprises exciting, aromatic whites.

Portugal has the highest density of native grapes per square mile of any country in the world. Alentejo growers and winemakers appreciate the native grape varieties, many of which are versatile, drought-resistant, have acidity to spare, and/or ripen early, making them well-suited to Alentejo’s hot climate.

Variety Information From Alentejo

(Note: I read the tasting notes on these grapes after I sampled the wines.)

Antão Vaz: Versatile, perfumed and shows great solo or blended, Antão Vaz is Alentejo’s white star. This hot-climate variety is highly resistant to drought and disease, producing consistently reliable yields, which ripen evenly.

Arinto: Alentejo’s best white blending variety, thanks to its exuberant acidity. Discreet aroma. Green apple, lemon and lime freshness and mineral notes favored by many wine lovers. Arinto has large leaves for shading and super-high acidity, making it well suited to the hot Alentejo climate.

Fernão Pires: Extremely aromatic (faintly reminiscent of Muscat), with distinctive peppery notes on nose and palate, Fernao Pires matures early and softens with oak aging. Suited to hot climates, the vine is susceptible to frost, so is not a match in cooler areas.

Roupeiro – aka Malvasia and Siria: Rouperio used to be the most widely planted white in Alentejo.  Often paired with Antao Vaz and Arinto, this grape is best enjoyed young, with its seductive citrus notes of orange and lemon, hints of peach, melon, laurel and forest flowers. Rouperio vines are resistant to regular grape diseases such as powdery mildew, which are severe in hot and dry climates like Alentejo.

Verdelho: An undervalued grape that over-delivers, Verdelho styles range from fresh and fruity when young, to rich and unctuous (an “oily” palate-coating trait like Riesling or Chenin) when older. Verdelho is early ripening and drought-tolerant variety, making it ideal for growing in the hot climates such as Alentejo. It ripens early avoiding spring frosts and mildew diseases. Verdelho originates from the Azores and is not linked to Spanish Verdejo.

The Tasting 

1. 2021 Torre de Palma

Grapes: Arinto and Alvarinho (SRP $40)

With a color of pale straw, aromas included fresh cut cantaloupe, honeydew melon, lemon-lime, white peach, a perfume with talcum powder, a tiny trace of smoke and recently rain-washed concrete. Very pleasant and inviting. Lots of bruised Yellow Delicious apple on the mouth, followed by a mild acidity, and more bruised fruit – Rainier cherry and plum – as well as lively lemon-lime and bracing minerality. (Also interesting to see the lemon-lime made their tasting notes for the Arinto grape as well.)

2. 2020 Adega de Redondo Porta da Ravessa Special Edition White (SRP $15)

Grapes: Roupeiro, Fernão Pires, Arinto.

A very pale gold color, with a nose full of yellow peach, white flowers, honey, and a cooling minerality. The mouth was a collection of that same peach and honey as well as Meyer lemon and sliced Naval oranges. A mild to medium acidity allowed the fruit to linger gracefully on the palate. I was unfamiliar with these grapes and I enjoyed tasting them in this wine. (I read the tasting notes on the Roupeiro after I tasted this wine, found it interesting to find the lemon, orange and peach in their notes as well.)

3. 2018 Conventual Reserva Branca

Grapes: Fernao Pires, Antao Vaz

This was the oldest wine offered in this group, made with Portuguese grapes I’m familiar with and the only Reserva, so I was looking forward to this one. I noted a pale yellow gold color to the wine, with white flower, cling peaches, a dusting of lemon and sea air on the nose. Going in for a taste this time I found those same cling peaches, a nut fruit like apricot, lemonade, and a medium acidity and crispness that allowed for a nice length. (Definitely aromatic as the Fernao Pires grape is described above.)

4. 2021 Herdade do Esporão Colheita Branco (SRP $18)

Grapes: Antao Vaz, Viosinho.

I was interested in trying this wine because I had reviewed the 2020 vintage of the same wine this past February. (My review of the Esporao Branco 2020:

http://evewine101.com/2022/02/11/tasting-sustainable-wines-with-herdade-do-esporao/) This time I noted a pale gold color with even paler pink brush strokes. The nose reminded me of crisp apple slices, pears, sweet butter and fine mineral water; while the flavors included that same apple and pear as well as juicy peach, lime soda and a nice acidity that made me want to go back for another taste.

5. 2020 Rocim Mariana White (SRP $16)

Grapes: Antão Vaz, Arinto, Alvarinho.

Wine number five had a color of pale hay, with aromas of fresh pineapple slices, lemon candy, buttery wafers and crushed dry leaves. For the taste I got fruit cocktail, bruised apple, a savory quality, acidity and a mild to medium salinity. The lemon, minerality and acidity I now know are common to the Arinto grape – see the grape descriptions above.

6. 2021 Marques de Borba Colheita White

Grapes: Arinto, Antão Vaz and Viognier.

My last Portuguese wine of the week to study, as I’d been savoring these one night at a time, so here goes: Colors of pale yellow with a hint of both green and rose. Bruised apple, toffee, lemon zest, peach and wet pebbles greeted me on the nose while I felt a mouth coating viscosity was filled with lemon, lime, acidity, minerals and a slight reminiscence of sea salt. Very refreshing. 

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.