Vintage Eve Circa 5/2018: A Trio of French Rosé Reviewed

December 15, 2020 by evebushman

I’m a sucker for Rosé wine, especially when the temperatures go up and the days are longer. It’s almost like an aperitif to have before dinner for us, on the front porch, as we watch our neighbors slowly filter by walking their dogs or walking themselves. So, this week, now that I’ve got you in a relaxed mood I hope, I give you three Rosé wines to virtual sample through me, and then go out and find for yourselves:

Château de Berne Inspiration 2017, $20

12.5% alcohol

70% Grenache Noir, 20% Cinsault, 10% Syrah

Color: Pale rose gold.

Aroma: fruit cocktail, peach, fresh sweet watermelon, pear, a cool stream running through a lush forest.

Flavor: Tingly (medium acid) hit me first, then fresh ripened apple, steely/concrete, much more fruit on the back palate and a finish of lemon-lime.

88 Eve pts.

From Tech Sheet: Château de Berne Inspiration a light, yet fragrant Grenache-dominant wine that will elevate any meal or happy hour with friends. The grapes are sourced from Château de Berne’s 330 acres of vineyards as well as trusted growers with whom the estate has long-term relationships. The warm Mediterranean climate, vineyard altitudes of 820-1,082 feet and limestone and clay soils produce grapes that are concentrated while still retaining fresh, juicy acidity. After harvest, the Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah grapes undergo cold soak maceration for 2 to 3 hours, to produce the pale pink color for which Provence is world-famous. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for 2 to 3 weeks before bottling.

Château de Berne Emotion 2017, $16

12.5% alcohol

50% Grenache Noir, 25% Cinsault, 25% Syrah

Cork: Synthetic cork that reminded me of a white marshmallow, this was a first for me.

Color: Very pale pink.

Aromas: Bright and aromatic fruit, citrus, lemon tart, cut pineapple, talcum powder.

Flavor: tart peach and pear, lemon, lime, sweet pineapple, mild to medium acidity.

88 Eve pts.

From Tech Sheet:

The grapes are sourced from Château de Berne’s 330 acres of vineyards as well as trusted growers with whom the estate has long-term relationships. The warm Mediterranean climate, vineyard altitudes of 820-1,082 feet and limestone and clay soils produce grapes that are concentrated while still retaining fresh, juicy acidity. After harvest, the Grenache Noir, Cinsault and Syrah grapes undergo cold soak maceration for 2 to 3 hours, to produce the pale pink color for which Provence is world-famous. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for 2 to 3 weeks before bottling.

Ultimate Provence Urban Provence 2017, $23

12.5% alcohol

45% Grenache Noir, 35% Cinsault, 15% Syrah, 5% Rolle

Color: rose gold, Swarovski crystal.

Aroma: peach, pink grapefruit, sweet ripe raspberry, plum, hard candy, cream, talcum powder, wet stream pebbles.

Flavor: fruit forward, strawberries and cream, but of tropical fruit, medium acid, mildly sweet finish.

90 Eve pts.

From Tech Sheet: Urban Provence is a dry rosé combining Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Rolle into a refreshing dry wine with bright red fruits balanced by spice. The grapes are harvested from Ultimate Provence’s 100-acre estate near the village of La Garde-Freinet, where the sandstone soils produce concentrated, aromatic fruit. After harvest, the grapes undergo cold soak maceration for 2 to 3 hours, to produce the pale pink color for which Provence is world-famous. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for 2 to 3 weeks before bottling. The gorgeously etched bottle is reflective of the product inside: beauty, craftsmanship, quality and originality.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Releases from Castello di Fonterutoli with Giovanni Mazzei and Eve!

December 11, 2020 by evebushman

Another week, and another great opportunity for a Zoom meeting, this time with a winery in Italy, Chianti Classico to be exact:

…Giovanni Mazzei debuts three new Chianti Classico Gran Selezione releases from Castello di Fonterutoli, the historic Tuscan estate where his family has been making wine for 24 generations. Castello di Fonterutoli’s vineyards are situated within the territory of three adjoining Chianti Classico municipalities: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. Beginning with the 2017 harvest, the Mazzei family launched a new approach to its Sangiovese-based range of wines, aimed at highlighting the biodiversity of these three terroirs in three Chianti Classico Gran Selezione wines, each with its own inimitable character.

What We Learned from Mazzei

The wines we would taste were from different vineyards and varied terroirs. These were to highlight a new approach to Sangiovese winemaking. In over two dozen generations of making wine – back then it was talked about in barrel now it’s talked about in bottle – there has been an evolution to the winemaking.

The different vineyards, see the photo of the map, cover three districts and include seven vineyard zones. Each give different “aromatics, elegance and power.” There will be discernable little differences between the different districts. We were one of the first to sample these wines. Mazzei then invited us to visit, said he would love to take us through all of the vineyards in his Land Rover to see it for ourselves. Who doesn’t want to do that?

The Wines and Tasting Notes (Some of the notes are ones I agreed with but made by Mazzei or another participant in the Zoom.)

Badiola Gran Selezione 2017 – from the estate’s highest altitude vineyards, below the 12^th century church of La Badiola. SRP $99 From the tech sheet: Aged 16 months in French oak barrels (500L, 30% new), then finessed for five months in concrete tanks before bottling. JAMES SUCKLING, 96 points, July 2020. 94 PTS WINE ADVOCATE 8/20 .92 PTS VINOUS 9/20. 91 PTS DECANTER 2/20. Our notes: Red cherries, red currant, spice, toasted oak, earth; same tart cherries, brambly.

Castelllo di Fonterutoli Gran Selezione 2017 – made from a selection of the best vineyard plots surrounding the hamlet of Fonterutoli. SRP $74. From the tech sheet: Aged 18 months in French oak barrels (500L, 50% new), then finessed for four months in concrete tanks before bottling. JAMES SUCKLING, 96 points, July 2020. 93 PTS WINE ADVOCATE 8/20. 92 PTS VINOUS 9/20. Our notes: Robust red fruit, black cherry, more brambly than the Badiola, lavender, peppery; full bodied, dry red fruit with silky tannins.

Vicoregio 36 Gran Selezione 2017 – a blend of 36 different Sangiovese biotypes (aka clones) deriving from 50 years of research, from the single Vicoregio vineyard. SRP $99. From the tech sheet: Aged 18 months in French oak barrels (500L, 50% new), then finessed for four months in concrete tanks before bottling. 95 points WINE ADVOCATE, August 2020. 95 PTS JAMES SUCKLING 7/20. 94 PTS VINOUS 9/20. Our notes: Thick, rich, raisins, prunes and other dark fruit; tannic, dry, “grip” and velvety.

Giovanni then shared the soon-to-be-released Siepi 2018 Toscana IGT, a 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Merlot that was first produced in 1992. SRP $130. From the tech sheet: 70% of the wines are aged in new French barriques (Merlot: 18 months; Sangiovese: 16 months), then blended and aged an additional 4 months in concrete tanks. The wine is bottle aged for 4 months before release. 94-96 POINTS, WINE ADVOCATE, August 2020. Our notes: Really pretty nose, red to blue fruit, earth, smoky; complex, balanced (probably due to Merlot influence), silky, black fruit, chocolate, very drinkable now.

About Castello di Fonterutoli

In the Mazzei family since 1435, Castello di Fonterutoli stretches across 1,600 acres of rolling Tuscan countryside in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone, taking in 7 areas under vine that cover a total of 290 acres. The seven vineyard zones are themselves broken down into no less than 120 plots which lie at an altitude of between 230 and 570 metres above sea level. Vineyard cultivation is entirely manual, up to and including the grape harvest, with vine care solutions tailored to each plot. Our centuries-old acquaintance with this territory, combined with more than half a century of research, has allowed us to base our range on36 biotypes of Sangiovese, 18 of which are mass selections exclusive to Castello di Fonterutoli. No other Chianti Classico winery can boast this level of biotype diversity.

The 2017 Vintage

It’s hard to remember such a remarkable season as 2017, when a succession of challenging weather events demanded all our instinct and expertise. A frost around 20 April was followed by a spring and summer when it hardly rained at all, with summer temperatures hitting the high notes and inducing a water stress that limited grape growth and reduced bunch weight. Towards the end of the season we took a gamble, waiting for September rains, and were rewarded with 130mm of rainfall in twenty days, which together with an abrupt fall in temperatures (with lows reaching 5 °C) gave the grapes new vigour. Grape quality was therefore good overall with peaks of excellence, far exceeding our pre-rainfall expectations, though yields were down 35% on the yearly average.2017 turned out to be of those ‘textbook’ years when great experience and a careful monitoring of every single vineyard, on a tailored, plot-by-plot basis, were essential to winemaking success.

www.palmbay.com

www.taubfamilyselections.com

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Vintage Eve Circa 4/2018: Will an Outstanding Experience Make or Break Your Winery, Bar or Restaurant?

December 8, 2020 by evebushman

I was all set to write on this topic alone until this past month, when we saw the news – true, false and still unresolved – of three local restaurants having some major issues that could prove fatal.

Sisley Italian Kitchen announced that they were closed and then pulled back and said only water damage prevented them from re-opening, all employees at TPC Valencia – including the chefs to the wait staff of the Oaks Grille – were laid off, and finally the owner of Southern Smoke would most likely lose his liquor license and maybe the restaurant too as he was found guilty of criminal charges.

Whoa Nelly. I’m in a bit of a shock. But I’m not here to defend or blame any of these businesses. I’m here to discuss what we should look for as consumers – in a restaurant, bar or winery – that is open and not dealing with crazy external issues.

The Experience

Eve in Del Dotto caves with winemaker Gerard Zanzonico. Photo by Ed Bushman Feb., 2012. (Visited Gerard countless times, knowing that we would always be offered an amazing experience!)

More and more people are looking for an “experience” and that includes the tasting room as well as the winemaker’s story, the owner’s story, activities/lessons/tours/dinners/events at a winery. What would cost a winery business? For me it would be a less than hospitable person at the tasting room. Be that person that smiles when you answer a phone – a good measure of a person that is trying even when they’re not seen. Don’t be that person that announces the rules before even talking about the wine. Ask where we’re from, who we’ve visited today, what wines we might enjoy and please attempt to make some form of eye contact while doing all that.

Most of my pals have recounted winery experiences that have compelled me to also visit. The quality of the wine itself is first and foremost, but if it’s lost in a dull story or dull visit, then it’s just that: lost. I’ve also, by way of being a wine writer, shared stories that I hope would compel others to seek out a particular winery. Robert Parker giving something a 90+ may mean more to you than my words, but if you’re going to visit the winery you may need a tad more than a score.

For a restaurant to provide a memorable experience that may mean a true uniqueness to the menu, a superstar chef, the décor and I shouldn’t have to say it again: exemplary service. With UberEats and other food delivery services, restaurants have to really step it up to get diners into those seats. If the server asks if I’m having my “usual”, remembers my name, seats me in the section they know I like – then I know that they know that I know that it’s the experience that matters to me. I can forgive a slight error in my order or some other fault if the service stands out.

At a bar both the cocktail menu and the wine menu have to excite the patron and be competitive in pricing. And of course, on top of that, you better be able to deliver that craft cocktail in record time. Make eye contact with me – don’t hold up your index finger at me – if you can’t offer immediate attention. If you don’t have your cocktails batched, then let me know how long it might take you to make it.

The more someone feels they had an experience that meant something to them personally, the more apt they are to buy, enjoy, share with others and – want to work there.

Sampling Sparkling Barbera, and More News, from Tenuta Montemagno!

December 4, 2020 by evebushman

Barbera sparkling wine, handpicked and harvested early in the “Metodo Classic” from Tenuta Montemagno? I’ll take that. And take it I did. Two bottles from the same winery, that “refines on yeasts for 24 (TM24) and 36 months (TM36)” being their only difference. The full details are here in their press release. Below are my tasting notes, and below that is new news!

Tasting Notes

Tenuta Montemagno 24 (TM24)

The color of rose gold, with teeny tiny energetic bubbles. The aromas included fresh apricot, raspberry, strawberry, biscuit, cheddar, talcum powder and ash. Same strawberry fruit in the flavor as well as crisp Meyer lemon and pink grapefruit. Liked the balance of fruit and mild acidity. This was my favorite of the two.

Tenuta Montemagno 36 (TM36)

A little less color, more like salmon, with the same exuberant bubbles. This one gave off hints of cherry, fruit cocktail, jasmine flowers, cream and a toasted wood on the nose. Tasting it I got that same cream but also a slight tart cherry and limeade. Same great balance with possibly a little more acidity, however it was mild. I shared these two with Prosecco-loving guests. They took photos and will be seeking them out.

News: The Indigenous varieties of Tenuta Montemagno: Grignolino d’Asti doc – Ruber

Ruber is the Grignolino d’Asti of Tenuta Montemagno. It is another great witness of the valorization of Monferrato indigenous varieties that is one of the beliefs of TM philosophy.

When we talk about this grape, the connection to our farmer and wine growers’ roofs is immediate. Grignolino is a rare and difficult grape to cultivate and to vinify. This wine is renowned since the Middle Ages with the name of Barbesino – from Latin Barbexinus and its existence attested by the XIII century citations, reported in the archives of Casale Monferrato. The current name’s etymology could find its origin from the Asti dialectical noun gragnola or grignole, meaning the numerous seeds in the grape, which is definitely one of its traits.

The challenge of Tiziano Barea and the Oenologue of Tenuta Montemagno was, at first, to transform the Grignolino, this ancient and “farmer” wine, into a contemporary one, preserving the original identity and organoleptic structure.

The vineyard reserved for the Grignolino cultivation has South-Southwest exposure and the characteristic soil’s composition, made of calcareous clay with slightly silty marls are the environment where it grows up, on vines of 30 years old, Guyot trained.

The grapes are worked by hand as well as by hand are harvested. The vinification process has been studied to valorize the “plus” of the Grignolino and to balance them with the innate astringency. The first step is to eliminate 2 of the 4 seed of the bounce then, the long maturing with skin contact brings out the full aroma of dried roses and the aromatic complexities of wild strawberry, wild berries and, in particular, raspberries.

Ruber is the name that identifies the Grignolino d’Asti of Tenuta Montemagno. Ruber – from Latin, it is the color, ruby red, transparent and eyes catching.

Ruber is the successful and contemporary Grignolino d’Asti of Tenuta Montemagno: the taste profile reveals the personality of a wine that is uninhibited and versatile in terms of food pairing, fairly mouth-filling, with tannins that are present but not aggressive, a suitably crisp, dry finish, and a good follow-through with the fruity notes that appear in the bouquet.

Ruber is the expression of Tenuta Montemagno wine making style, solid and convincing, that looks at the tradition with a modern eye but without useless stretches and with concrete and constant high quality.

In every glass of Grignolino, we find the important oenological story of Piedmont. Ruber is a red wine of friendly character, able to let us enjoy the aperitif – when served lightly chilled, the fish based dishes and the classical recipes of the Piedmont’s cuisine, as the medium seasoned cheese, the Muletta – typical salame of Monferrato, and the Agnolotti – stuffed pasta.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Vintage Eve 3/2018: Valencia Wine Company Through the Years

December 1, 2020 by evebushman

When Valencia Wine Company opened some 14 or so years ago many people told owner Guy Lelarge that they had the same idea: open the first wine bar in the Santa Clarita Valley for tastings, purchases, advice, classes and private parties. I was one of the first visitors, and a regular for at least the first ten years. In that time I tasted a lot and learned a lot. My article footer below didn’t even exist, and one of the first wine articles I did for the Signal newspaper (now not even available in their archives) was on Valencia Wine Company.

l-r: Guy Lelarge, Jason Park and Edward Sellers. Wine Dinner at Maru Sushi in 2012.

We had done several videos over the year, talking about upcoming dinners, 10 year anniversary and classes, but we had the most fun with a brief series of “Shi- Wine People Say” videos. This is #1 that has nearly 1k views, #2 has wine educator Denise Lowe trying to educate an old friend of mine, #3 with winemaker Shawn Halahmy and Denise Lowe joking about tasting Pinot Noir and #4 jokingly tackled what people say before they spit.

From Eve’s Wine 101

A search of our Eve’s Wine 101 website showed that there are no less than EIGHTY NINE mentions of Lelarge in our articles. I looked them over – and this took some time and a few tissues. These are just a few from my trip down memory lane if you’d like to join me:

As the owner of the longest running wine bar and retail shop in town, Guy Lelarge continues to take it up a notch. He recently announced that he has selected Amazon to run their international wine club…(more)

Guy Lelarge, and your friends at Valencia Wine Company, are welcoming spring in a whole new way: they’ve just announced their first-ever mid-year over-the-top wine tasting event for…(more)

Guy, Thank you again for including me, and Signal readers through me, into your elite event last night. Meeting winemaker Mitch Cosentino and tasting his wines along Chef Otto’s fine cuisine was no less than stellar! Yours, in wine and out, Eve…(more)

In the first of an exciting new “pairing”, SAKE Bistro has teamed with Valencia Wine Company for their first Wine Dinner on June 21. The “Meet the Winemaker” format will feature only the wines from Paso Robles’ Grey Wolf and their winemaker, Joe Barton….(more)

Valencia Wine Company’s Annual Holiday Tasting was the wine affair of the season, as promised. Delayed a week by fire and freeway closures there wasn’t a lack of interest or attendance. People needed a holiday now and it served to get them ready for the real ones to come….(more)

What does the owner of the classiest wine bar in town do on his birthday? What do you give him as a gift? And how can you surprise a Wine Guru? These questions, and many more, can be found…gee let’s see…(more)

From Eve Bushman Consulting

On a testimonial on our Eve Bushman Consulting website Guy wrote, “I met Eve Bushman when she knew next to nothing about wine, and everything about marketing! I shared my wine knowledge with her (she calls me Guru Guy) and she, in turn, has shared countless marketing ideas with me. Whether I’m planning a winemaker dinner, a large tasting event, or co-chairing a fundraiser with Eve, I’ve always felt that she has brought as much to the proverbial table – with me – that she takes from it. I value our friendship, and always look forward our meetings – tasting wine and brainstorming new ideas, a perfect pairing!”

Supporting Santa Clarita

Over the years Valencia Wine Company supported the Soroptimists of Greater Santa Clarita Valley every year for their Sip, Stroll and Savor the Sounds event. He also contributed his wine expertise to the Art and Wine Gala that benefitted our local art’s community.

Guy also allowed me to work for charity in the bar at least twice. The first time I was still using a screw pull corkscrew over a waiter’s corkscrew!

As this door closes for Guy others have opened. He recently redid the wine lists for both Newhall Refinery and The Social. His expertise as a wine buyer began well before Valencia Wine Company opened its doors, and I know he will find a secure footing again, most likely here in the Santa Clarita Valley. 2020 update: Find Guy at Remedy Liquor in Glendale, heading up the huge second story wine department.

Reviewing DAOU’s Soul of a Lion and GIFTS too!

November 27, 2020 by evebushman

My history with DAOU is a long one, so I was thrilled to receive the 2017 Soul of a Lion to review, as well as some gift ideas that I’ve shared below my tasting notes. Let me start with some of my previous notes:

I covered the first few annual Cab Collective events, a multi-day educational retreat for press and sommeliers that was started by Daniel Daou and other Cab-minded Paso vintners. This article ran in January 2017 in Elite Magazine, all about the event (but don’t blame me for this title, it should read the well-rated not underrated) https://scvelitemagazine.com/2017/01/underrated-wines-paso-robles-cabs-distinction-grand-tasting-2016/

At another tasting event this is what I thought of just one vintage: DAOU Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles 2013 – Who isn’t a fan of DAOU? This reserve Cab was all tobacco, dark and dry and good to go.

An excerpt from another Cab Collective, and also getting my first taste of Soul of a Lion, this is what I’ll share: Daou told the crowd, “We don’t get a bad vintage often…it’s our trademark” as “our region achieves ripeness year after year” delivering wines of “perfect balance.”

From a 2013 report from Robert Parker I also shared: Paso Robles CAB Collective (PRCC) members were awarded dozens of scores well above 90 points for their red Bordeaux-style wines including 98 points and 96 points for DAOU Vineyards and Winery’s 2013 Patrimony and 2013 Soul of a Lion, respectively.

And back in 2010 I wrote: Daou spoke of how he co-founded DAOU with his brother Georges and how Paso Robles has the “most French-like terroir we could find in California.”

2010 Soul of a Lion: Daou said they produced 550 cases of this wine, which saw “new French oak aging for 24 months, still needs some time.” It sold out in five weeks in tasting room. EB: Mint, full/round, plump dark fruit, milk chocolate; Tannic, dusty dark fruit, pepper, long finish. Good to go now or cellar, very nice.

TODAY AND TASTING THE 2017 SOUL OF A LION

A pretty black cherry in color, opaque. Onward, we are greeted with aromas reminding me of sweet fruit leather: blackberry, blueberry and plums; then cherry cola, milk chocolate, white pepper, medium toasted oak and a hint of rich caramel. Next comes a very rich mouthfeel of flavors. Layered fruit and spice: dark, dark fruit and tamed spice; with a juicy, long finish. Can imagine this 2017 getting even more interesting with more age.

Now, some very cool gift ideas from DAOU:

EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY ($129)

Available to purchase: www.daouvineyards.com

Smooth yet robust, DAOU’s cabernet boasts flavors of dark cherry and cassis with subtle mocha and truffle nuances. A firm but smooth texture of pure blackberry fruit and coffee makes for a well-rounded wine that’s ideal to put on your table for Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners alongside meat or seafood dishes.

Gift set includes:

2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
2019 Estate Olive Oil
DAOU Wine Opener
Reserve Linen Box

SOUL OF A LION COLLECTOR’S SET ($450)

Available to purchase: www.daouvineyards.com

Soul of a Lion is the crown jewel of DAOU, named after Joseph Daou, the father of Georges and Daniel Daou. This wine displays richness, elegance and balance.

Gift set includes:

Three 2017 Estate Soul of a Lion
3 Bottle Estate Wooden Box
Lionhead Pourer

Merry and Bright!

MERRY & BRIGHT ($135)

Available to purchase: www.daouvineyards.com

For the fans of whites and rosés, this set includes a bottle of Chemin de Fleurs, an elegant and sophisticated white wine, and Reserve Rosé, inspired by the refreshingly dry rosés that are a winemaking staple in southern France.

Gift set includes:

2019 Reserve Chemin de Fleurs
2019 Reserve Rosé
2019 Estate Olive Oil
DAOU Wine Opener
Reserve Linen Box

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Vintage Eve 3/2018: Appellation Alentejo in Portugal, A Tasting and Masterclass

November 24, 2020 by evebushman

One rare not-so-sunny day I traveled to the Mondrian Los Angeles in West Hollywood for a wine class and tasting on the Alentejo region of Portugal. My education on Portugal had been, up to this point, mostly spent on the obvious: Ports. However, as a wine writer, it’s always special to not only taste new wines but also have the additional benefit of learning. Here goes…

Image from CellarTours.com

The Masterclass

The session will be presented by Evan Goldstein, MS, one of our industry’s most engaging and informed wine educators, in addition to being a leading expert on Portuguese wines. At the masterclass, Evan will offer a snapshot of the grapes, zones, sub-zones and characteristics that define Alentejo’s wines and collectively establish it as one of the most promising wine regions in southern Europe today.

Takeaways for Wine 101ers

Three sides of Portugal is bordered by Spain.

It takes less than 90 minutes to travel by train from Lisbon to Alentejo.

Alentejo covers one third of Portugal.

Alentejo is the size of Belgium.

They’ve been making wine for over 4,000 years; the Roman settlers were the first to plant vineyards.

They are 9^th in the world in vineyard acreage.

They are 11^th in total worldwide production (USA is 4^th)

Portuguese have the largest wine consumption in the world, 54 liters per person per year.

Nearly 80% of the wines are reds.

Blending is allowed and they “embrace everybody’s grapes” in Alentejo.

Tasting

We had 12 wines to taste, starting with a sparkling Rose, two whites and the remainder were all reds. Evan wanted us to taste blind – this was lost on me as no one seemed that familiar with the grapes to begin with, we were there for a lesson, so not sure why the blind format – but it didn’t slow us down. In fact, by “halftime” we had been given less time to evaluate each wine.

Surrounded by fellow media and some members of the trade, we began our task. Number, year, producer and then the name of the wines are below. The many wine grape varietals are in parenthesis.

Rose: 2014 Herdade do Rocim, Espumante Brut Rose (Touriga Nacional)

Color: fresh peach.

Aroma: strawberry, cherry blossom, French toast, yeast.

Flavor: cherry, strawberry, tart, medium acid.

One: 2015 Rui Reguinga, Terrenus Reserva Branco (field blend of mixed whites)

Color: 24 carat gold.

Aroma: honey, kiwi, stone fruit.

Flavor: green apple, grapefruit, orange zest, medium acid.

Two: 2016 Luis Duarte, Rubrica Branco (Antao Val, Verdelho and Viognier)

Color: pale gold.

Aroma: green hay, barnyard, yeast and cheddar cheese.

Flavor: sweetened grapefruit, tinny, good mouth-coating viscosity, short finish.

Three: 2013 Susana Esteban, Procura Tinto (Field blend, Alicante Bouschet)

Color: purple.

Aroma: blue to black fruit, Cabernet-like, chocolate.

Flavor: dry, tannic, dried dark fruit.

Four: 2013 Joao Portugal Ramos, Vila Santa Reserva Tinto (Aragonez – aka Tempranillo – as well as Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet)

Color: dark garnet.

Aroma: red fruit, stems, cigar, wet bark, medicinal.

Flavor: red fruit and stems again.

Five: 2011 Mouchao, Tinto (Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira – commonly used in port wine reduction but I didn’t know that until I looked up the grape!)

Color: dark purple.

Aroma: sweet, port-like, blueberry, blackberry jam.

Flavor: drier in mouth than expected, same port-like qualities and cigar.

Six: 2014 Esporao, Reserva Tinto (Aragonez – aka Tempranillo –as well as Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet.)

Color: dark purple.

Aroma: cigar, dark chocolate, espresso, mint.

Flavor: mature fruit, balanced with spice, good dark fruit.

This was the first of my favorites in the tasting.

Seven: 2014 Cartuxa, Tinto (Aragonez – aka Tempranillo – as well as Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira.)

Color: purple.

Aroma: pungent red to blue fruit – a lot, and a nice amount of spice.

Flavor: black fruit, balanced, spice milder.

This was the second of my favorites.

Eight: 2012 Dona Maria, Grande Reserva Tinto (Alicante Bouschet, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Touriga Nacional)

Color: dark purple.

Aroma: tart nose of blueberry, dark cherry and white pepper.

Flavor: red fruit, some spice, tannic.

Nine: 2015 Cooperativa Granja Amaraleja, Moreto Pe-Franco Tinto (100% Moreto – in amphora!)

Color: dark garnet.

Aroma: sweet, stewed fruits, plump raisings, milk chocolate, dark cherry.

Flavor: Nice big, bold and dark fruit, good spice.

My third favorite in the tasting. Been a long time since I had a clay pot, aka amphora, wine.

Ten: 2015 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova, Malhadinha Tinto (Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, Tinta Miuda and Touriga Nacional.)

Color: dark garnet.

Aroma: fresh bowl of cut red fruit, juicy darker fruits, mint, earth.

Flavor: deep, layered, balanced fruit, spice and tannins.

Also a favorite for me.

Eleven: 2013 Cortes de Cima, Tinto (Aragonez – aka Tempranillo – as well as Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Petit Verdot.

Color: dark red.

Aroma: red to blue fruit, nicely balanced.

Flavor: heavy red fruit, deep, flavors well integrated.

Facebook: Wines of Alentejo USA

Twitter: @winesofalentejo

Instagram: winesofalentejousa

#WinesOfAlentejo

http://www.winesofportugal.com/us

Our 2020 Holiday Roundup of Wine or Spirit Themed Gifts!

November 21, 2020 by evebushman

Done holiday roundups before, so it should be no surprise that this year, the year of the grand pivot due to Covid, there are plenty of out-of-the-box gift ideas, many to enjoy at home. Let’s see what we got:

People seem to love the Coravin wine preserver, where you can sample or have a glass or two of wine and not compromise the bottle for another taste on another day. I suggest you go through Merchant of Wine website to purchase yours. And while your there check out the latest classes, for you or as a gift. https://merchantofwine.com/search?type=product%2Carticle%2Cpage&q=Coravin

Recently reviewed the DAOU 2017 Soul of a Lion. Along with the wine the Paso Robles winery shared some fabulous gift boxes new for the season. My review is set to run on November 27, but you can check the gift boxes out here: https://daouvineyards.com/gifts/

My review of El Sativo Tequila ran yesterday on this blog. These are my tasting notes, “Notes of vanilla bean, heavy sweet cream and toasted popcorn kernel – with no burn whatsoever – on the nose. The taste was smooth yet peppery – so interesting – and flavors reminiscent of buttered popcorn, and that same cream, ending with a spicy finish. Really liked having it both smooth and spicy! Then tried it with a little bit of squeezed lemon and it was like a lo-cal Margarita. This is not a Tequila to shoot! Not so sure about added energy, may have to do further study = drink more!” If that sounds good to you check them out here and buy a bottle for you, and a friend: http://www.elsativo.com/

I met Kimberly F. on Facebook probably a decade ago, later in person at a wine event, and found her to be charming. Come to find she is designing a lot of different wine charms! Check them all out here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheSparklyAlchemist?section_id=27513269&

Beltways by Ethereal Confections, photo credit: redwallphoto.com

Recently had the most amazing hand made chocolate from Ethereal Confections! Come back to EveWine101 on 12/18 for all of the details. And in the meantime check out the bars, truffles and olive oil meltaways that go well with wine and whisky: https://www.etherealconfections.com/

More Than A Taste, by Jane Mick

From local artist Jane Mick: My wine and martini paintings are listed on Fine Art America. On this site you can order my art on mugs, cards, t-shirts pillows etc.

Check it out: https://fineartamerica.com/profiles/jane-mick/art/paintings Also for original artwork for that someone special check out: JaneMick.com

Check out the Premium Aged Brandy in Mini Barrels from the Lompoc Wine Factory on their website: https://lompocwinefactory.com/e-shop/premium-aged-brandy-in-mini-barrel/

Steve Stebbins Wine Candles

From local retiree Steve Stebbins: LAR’s Candles was established when I wondered how to make the best of Life After Retirement! And no kidding, it can be the best time of life, especially if you plan for it. So in 2019 when I retired, I began learning and refining the techniques of how to make candles using up-cycled wine bottles. I make them with long-burning, clean soy wax. Everyone loves the soft and clean fragrance named, “Vanilla Flowers.” Also available are “Unscented” and a holiday “Winter Forest” fragrance. Price per candle – $20 or 2 for $30. Cell: 805-341-8121 Email: sostebbins@aol.com

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Sampling Single Estate El Sativo Tequila Blanco

November 20, 2020 by evebushman

I have two go-to Tequilas: Cazadores and Asombroso, the former was a gift from my daughter’s fiancé and the latter was one I reviewed that I have since purchased for my liquor cabinet. I’m not much of a tequila-cocktail lover and prefer to sip alone or on ice, and was happy to receive another tequila for review that I could add into my “sipper” category of spirits.

After reading the press release for El Sativo below, I was intrigued by several points it made including the idea that the “terpenes, found in the agave, have a myriad of health benefits, including mood-lifting and energy-boosting attributes”, that they give back to ocean conservancy and are a triple time double gold medal winner. Definitely made me ready to sample.

Tasting Notes

Notes of vanilla bean, heavy sweet cream and toasted popcorn kernel – with no burn whatsoever – on the nose. The taste was smooth yet peppery – so interesting – and flavors reminiscent of buttered popcorn, and that same cream, ending with a spicy finish. Really liked having it both smooth and spicy! Then tried it with a little bit of squeezed lemon and it was like a lo-cal Margarita. This is not a Tequila to shoot! Not so sure about added energy, may have to do further study = drink more!

News Release

EL SATIVO, THE FIRST TEQUILA TO INNOVATE A “ONE OF A KIND” COMPOUND FOCUSED DISTILLATION, MAINTAINING THE BENEFICIAL ELEMENTS IN THE AGAVE

100% Blue Agave – Single Estate – 100% USDA Organic – 100% NON-GMO – Certified OK Kosher

El Sativo, the 2020 Tequila of the Year at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, launched this summer. Bottles will be available for purchase at Whole Foods and Total Wine in California, Nevada, New Mexico, and Illinois along with retail stores throughout Texas, more states will be added shortly. El Sativo will debut their offerings with the award-winning Tequila Blanco, with plans to offer a reposado and anejo in 2021. Tequila Blanco will retail between $39.99 – $45.99 for a 750ml.

El Sativo’s co-creators and fourth-generation family of distillers use an innovative distillation process that captures and accentuates the agave plant’s own natural benefits. “These terpenes, found in the agave, have a myriad of health benefits, including mood-lifting and energy-boosting attributes, which is why we transformed our distillation process in order to help maintain their properties,” states co-founder Dr. Robert Summers.

The El Sativo team is committed to improving the environment, helping to build awareness, and pushing to find remedies to help preserve the precious resources of our planet. Translated from Spanish, El Sativo means “Sown in Seeds,” as anything planted, nurtured, and grown is life. Every bottle sold gives back to ocean conservancy. The bottle is made of 100% recycled smart non-combustible glass and has an organic soluble label that is pesticide free.

El Sativo Tequila is certified USDA organic, 100% Non–GMO, Kosher and Eco-friendly.

THE PROCESS

“Our distillery is located in the lowlands of Amatitán, Jalisco; we’re single estate, our agaves are planted, nurtured, and harvested solely in our fields and never sourced. It was important for us to be completely organic, so our cultivation is carried out without pesticides or fungicides, and we only use organic fertilizers. The organic certification process is far more complex and time consuming than the process for common tequila.” says co-founder and singer-songwriter Jaime Whitton.

Using small batch stone ovens, the blue agaves are slowly steamed for 24-48 hours, using no diffusers nor autoclaves. The process pays homage to the art of tequila making by using the traditional technique. Fermenting with its own natural yeast, the team uses reverse osmosis water filtered through 135 feet of volcanic rock for a pure filtration process.

40% ABV, 750ml, NOM 1480

TASTING NOTES: EL SATIVO TEQUILA BLANCO

Bouquet: Opulent bright citrus with sweet agave
Palate: Lift of white pepper and sweet agave with a waterfall of stone fruit savoring on the taste buds Finish: Long, seductive rollercoaster finish.

ABOUT EL SATIVO

Originated by a spirited family with over 25 years in the tequila industry. El Sativo is an innovative tequila that lifts the spirits and stands apart from the crowd. Our sweet agave dances in waterfalls of stone fruit soaking in memorable days and fun-filled nights. El Sativo sets itself apart by utilizing a special distillation method that naturally highlights the agave plant’s precious resources known to have mood lifting and energy boosting attributes that exemplify #SoSativo. A Single Estate masterpiece and the winner of 3 double gold awards, including 2020 Tequila of the Year (San Francisco World Spirits Competition).

El Sativo Tequila is Certified USDA Organic, Non-GMO, OK Kosher and each bottle is 100% smart combustible recycled glass with organic soluble labels. Every bottle sold gives back to ocean conservancy. Truly “A Better Tequila for a Better World.”

…

Website: http://www.elsativo.com/
Instagram: @elsativotequila

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Vintage Eve 2/2018: Review of Graham’s 20-Year-Old Tawny Port

November 17, 2020 by evebushman

I recently shared a press release from Graham’s regarding their 20-year-old tawny port, and lo and behold, a week later I received one for review.

From Graham’s: “…Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port (is)—made from the highest quality Douro Valley grapes. Rich caramel flavors and notes of toffee…20 years of cask aging gives the wine its beautiful golden amber color…” read more here. And see how my notes compare below!

Tasting

From the label: 20% alcohol, 5 generations of the Symington family for over 190 years have crafted this port, with an “art of blending” and control from “harvest to cellar.”

Color/appearance: A cross between your standard colored-raisin and a golden raisin, with a deeper garnet-hued edge.

Aroma: Chocolate covered cherries, liquor-filled chocolates, almond, crushed raspberry, caramel, coconut and raisin. Very welcoming.

Flavor: A lovely mouth-coating viscosity filled with milk and dark chocolate, macadamia nut, raspberry again, butter, fresh blueberry muffins, plum, cream, real pancake syrup and with no real discernable burn but with an incredible long length.

Pairing: I do a chocolate class with Cab, Zin or Shiraz and at least one port. We start with the highest percentage of cacao and work ourselves down to milk chocolate. Most of the bars also have dried fruit and/or nuts. Every time the class ends up finding new respect for dark chocolate, and every time the port helps them transition from dark to milk. So, I’d definitely like this port, with all of the aromas and flavors I noted above, at my next class. Beyond that, and again due to the flavors I found I would enjoy this with a fruit-topped cheesecake, flan, bread pudding with rum and/or fruit, all kinds of cheeses, or after a night of wine or whisky.

More From Graham’s

Graham’s was founded in 1820 and now has earned an unmatched reputation as the leading producer of premium Port wines. The company has been owned by just two families in its entire history; originally founded by the Graham’s, it was acquired by the Symington family in 1970.

The Symingtons can trace their ancestors as Port wine producers back four generations to Andrew James Symington who came to Oporto in 1882, but back thirteen generations through their great grandmother, Beatrice Atkinson, to Walter Maynard who shipped 39 pipes of Port in 1652. A unique record in the history of Port.

Today, five members of the Symington family work in the company – Paul, Johnny, Dominic, Rupert and Charles. The family personally manages all aspects of wine making from the vineyard to the final bottling of the wine.

GRAHAM’S owns 5 vineyard properties. Quinta dos Malvedos, Graham’s flagship property, has always been the heart of GRAHAM’S Vintage Port, where most of the grapes are sourced. Quinta da Vila Velha and Quinta do Vale de Malhadas (both privately owned by a member of the Symington family), as well as Quinta das Lages, have contributed to the GRAHAM’S unique style. The latest acquisition, Quinta do Tua, perfectly complements Malvedos and adds a further dimension to GRAHAM’S Port wines.