Clink Different: French and German Wines at Napa Valley Grille? Only for this October!

October 18, 2019 by evebushman

Brian Cousins, General Manager of Napa Valley Grille in Westwood, recently treated my #LAWineWriters group to a wine pairing luncheon with a selection of French and German Wines represented by Clink Different. Of the featured wines we were to have Sparkling, Rosé, Riesling, Semillon, Pinot Noir and Bordeaux. Of the meal, we were to also have no less than five courses prepared by Executive Chef Kenny Spost. (Napa Valley Grille does a monthly promotion, so head there before the end of October to try these wines!)

Cousins has been our host for numerous luncheons, where our organizer Cori Solomon usually brings in a winemaker. I was happy to support his own wine program, and taste through wines he wanted our opinions on. Later that evening he would repeat the tasting for clients of the restaurant.

In the course of our discussion Cousins shared that the wines were not ones we would find in stores and were an “expression of what (he) tasted and liked” providing the restaurant with a “world’s list” of imports. Of our menu he said that there were many new items we were trying that were being offered for both lunch and dinner, including more selections for vegetarian and vegan diners – at least six new dishes. Cousins said that between the new imported wines on their list, and the new menu items, Napa Valley Grille seeks to be “in the conversation” with other innovative restaurants – I believe they already are. (Photos of the food and wine can be seen on my public Facebook post here.)

The menu (below) and tasting notes were provided, so I limited my commentary on how I liked the wine and how well I felt it paired with the menu, noted with an EB at the end of each course/wine descriptions:

Pairing Menu

1st Course
Oyster with Chipotle Herb Butter.

2016 Scharzhofberger Riesling sparkling wine brut, Saar

Fine citrus and grapefruit aromas, concise animating mineral, racy acidity, fine yeasty notes and elegant perlage.

EB: Chef Spost had made his own chipotle sauce with shallots, parsley, butter = I loved the savory qualities of this dish. The wine was so different for me, I noted a fresh apple cider and yeast that was a nice complement to the oyster.

2nd Course

Fruit Salad

mixed greens, frisée, toasted turmeric pepitas, pears, raspberries,

bubu arare, vanilla bean vinaigrette.

2018 Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé, Pfalz

a true rosé, made with a brief maceration before pressing to extract color. It is light and refreshing, with deliciously bright berry and fruit flavors and a clean, zippy finish.

2017 Franz Keller Vom Löss Pinot Gris, Baden

concentrated grapefruit and lemon flavors that leave a pleasant murmur of citrus zest on midpalate. It finishes on lingering notes of crushed mineral and volcanic ash.

EB: Many of the LA Wine Writers commented that this was the best “fruit salad” they ever had. I loved the vanilla bean in the dressing and the toasted pepitas – crunchy, nutty, sweet and vinegar all working together well. I enjoyed both of the German wines; the Pinot Noir (bright raspberry with a very balanced acidity) and Pinot Gris (apple, perfumy, crisp).

3rd Course

Turmeric-Crusted Tuna

orange-ginger-soy reduction, shaved fennel, black sesame seeds, taro root chips.

2017 Clos des Lunes Lune d’Argent. Sauternes, Bordeaux

70% Sémillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc. Featuring a mix of pear, tangerine, yellow and green apple flavors, lined with light honeysuckle and fennel hints. Creamy along the edges, and pure and vibrant through the middle.

2017 Scheferkorf Sylvaner, Franken, Germany

Brisk aromas of tangerine and quince gain ripeness and concentration on the palate of this dry but honeyed Silvaner. It’s an easy-drinking, juicy wine with ample yellow-peach flavor and just a hint of mineral complexity.

EB: I was in love with this flavorful tuna, especially with the soy reduction. The Sauterne was drier and less sweet than the usual dessert wine, with creamy apple notes. The Sylvaner, from Germany, had a light but round mouthfeel and lovely peach notes.

4th Course

Colorado Lamb Rack

corn polenta, mint-pomegranate reduction.

2016 August Kesseler, The Daily August, Pinot Noir, Rheingau

Hints of beetroot, black cherry and earth extend from nose to palate in this lusciously ripened Pinot Noir. Full bodied and supple in mouthfeel, it’s fringed by fine, smooth tannins and just a hint of astringency on the finish.

2017 Chateau St Sulpice, Bordeaux Superiore

70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc

In the nose plum, red cherry, menthol, dried herbs, baking spice and oak. On the palate plum, red cherry and baking spice followed by dried herbs and a cedar finish.

2016 Franz Keller Pinot Noir, Baden

The nose suggests whiffs of cherry blossom, graphite, plum and smoke. Black cherry and berry flavors seem delicate initially, but amass concentration and complexity with aeration, building layers of savory earth and tannin.

EB: A lot going on here but let me just start with the Colorado lamb – yes it’s gamier than what you might be used to, but with that it’s also earthier, so having a flavorful meat was perfect for me. Of the three wines I appreciated the Bordeaux but my palate, for a change, leaned toward the two German Pinots, “The Daily August” especially as it had nice dark cherry and what Cousins referred to as a “herbaceous” quality.

5th Course

Australian Wagyu NY Strip Steak

10 oz, green peppercorn-cognac jus.

2010 Goulée by Cos d’Estournel, Medoc

On the nose aromatic ripe cherries, tobacco, coffee and minerals. On the palate rich and full bodied with velvety tannins and a long finish.

EB: Thank you for this course. The meat was cooked perfectly – pan seared with brown butter – and I thoroughly enjoyed it with the Bordeaux, that was all barnyard aromas at first but blew off to reveal nice dark fruit and a slightly sweet finish.

Dessert Course

Chateau Grand Jauga Sauternes, 2015

A lovely mix of aromas and flavors including apricot, honeysuckle, and juicy citrus, plus a streak of minerality. Gracefully balances honeyed sweetness against acidity, and finishes with appealing intensity and length.

EB: This is my idea of dessert after such a filling meal, just bring on one small taste of a luscious dessert wine. This one provided a sweet pineapple, Meyer lemon and a lingering fresh fruit cocktail finish.

Napa Valley Grille

1100 Glendon Avenue, #100

Los Angeles, CA 90024

310-824-3322

https://napavalleygrille.com/our-chef/

https://napavalleygrille.com/

https://www.instagram.com/napavalleygrille/

https://www.facebook.com/NapaValleyGrilleWestwood/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Chai Vault Launches Standard for Wine and Spirits Authenticity and Provenance in Answer to Widespread Global Counterfeiting and Fraud

October 16, 2019 by evebushman

SAN FRANCISCO/PRNewswire/ — Chai Vault has announced its revolutionary wine and spirits authenticity and provenance solution – enabling buyers to view authenticity and provenance of individual bottles online, before purchase, without having to inspect or scan them. Chai Vault certification also travels with bottles as ownership changes.

Chai Vault certification provides proof of authenticity by layering multiple low- and high-tech identifiers plus unique bottle details. Chai Vault registration occurs either at the time of production, in initial supply chains, or in secondary markets following authentication by a certified The Chai Method^® (TCM^®) Authenticator. Bottles’ Ledger of Authenticity and Provenance™ are made available online when bottles are put up for sale with owner name encrypted, or listed, as controlled by the bottle owner.

Chai Vault CEO Maureen Downey is the global authority on wine and spirits fraud, counterfeiting and authentication. She advises the world’s top collectors in purchasing, selling, and managing their collections with her firm, Chai Consulting. She assisted the U.S. government prosecution of the first wine counterfeiting case and continues to actively work with federal law enforcement.

Downey states, “Most current wine and spirits anti-fraud solutions are single layer or cosmetic. Each has failed to address all necessary elements to protect consumers, vendors and producers. Chai Vault certification brings both secure anti-fraud and much needed transparency to wines and spirits transactions. No longer are we reliant on trust – buyers can verify authenticity prior to investing.”

Downey partnered with Silicon Valley veteran Ed Baum to help build and scale Chai Vault. Baum has 30+ years of operational experience at large companies and startups, and is a passionate fine wine connoisseur. They engaged San Francisco-based Azumo to build the software and blockchain solution, and Italy-based Enoplastic for the aftermarket Chai Caplet™.

Wine and spirits counterfeiting and fraud remains an enormous global scourge. Estimated at 20% of international sales, counterfeit bottles represent hundreds of millions in losses to consumers, family businesses, corporations and governments.

Today, most fine wines and spirits are purchased sight unseen. Consumers buy via auction, online, direct or through futures/pre-arrival. Buyers are reliant on statements by motivated sellers, resulting in hundreds of millions in counterfeit and fraudulent purchases. Chai Vault certification enables consumers to verify bottle data online, in advance of purchase, empowering them to focus on acquiring authentic bottles rather than hoping to avoid fakes.

Chai Vault is being rolled out by vendors in Paris and Amsterdam following bottle inspection by certified TCM® Authenticators. On December 7^th in NYC, Zachy’s Auctions will feature a multi-million-dollar, single-owner consignment of wines, “The Black Tie Collection,” all of which are Chai Vault certified.

Chai Vault is supported by offices in Europe and a global network of over twenty certified and in-training TCM® Authenticators, enabling global registration of bottles in the Chai Vault.

Extended release and more information available at www.chaivault.com

Vintage Eve Circa 10/2016: Sampling Montefalco Rosso

October 15, 2019 by evebushman

Today we will be tasting one bottle of Terre de la Custodia Montefalco Rosso DOC, with suggestions for serving on your holiday table and details on the grapes used in this particular bottling.

Tasting

Aromas and Flavors separated by ;

Greeted by a dark garnet color I was drawn into aromas of dried black cherry, crushed black plums, stewing mushrooms and green peppercorn; in the mouth it was dark and dusty, filled with blackberry and blueberry fruit, tannic yet well balanced. Wholly appealing. 89 Eve pts.

Serving Suggestion

Thanksgiving is a time of family, togetherness, and entirely too much food to handle, not only in terms overall quantity, but also in the overwhelming kinds of dishes found on the table. Many families have their own food traditions that are served in addition to the American staples, creating what can often be a cacophony of dishes. With all of these drastically different choices, how can you possibly choose the right wine? The answer is Montefalco Rosso DOC. Not only is it a sturdy red, perfect for late fall, but each varietal is able to stand up to the varied and specific elements of sides and main dishes on the Thanksgiving table…

Wine Details

Montefalco Rosso DOC (SRP: $19-25) is a stellar combination of Sagrantino and Sangiovese and presents itself in a deep ruby red with purple tints. The bouquet offers up wild fruits, plum, and toasted aromas.

The Sagrantino: provides depth and structure and stands up to heartier dishes such as ham, duck, truffled mushrooms, au gratins with Stilton and other aged cheeses, and dark chocolate.

The Sangiovese: lends its brightness and fruitiness to stand next to lighter, fresher dishes such as cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, salads, apple pie – and, of course, turkey.

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column.

The Art of Toasting Moutai From China

October 11, 2019 by evebushman

Camus is delighted to invite you to a dynamic culture event to learn and experience the Chinese way of toasting and fine dining, with the iconic spirit Moutai and one of its kind Baccarat crystal drink set. Dress code: Elegant with a touch of red.

Well this was a new one for me. Never heard of the Chinese spirit Moutai or used the Baccarat crystal drink set. Intrigued by the idea of learning how to properly toast with a Chinese spirit, I was ready to learn. But first what is Moutai? From Wikipedia: Maotai or Moutai is a brand of baijiu, a distilled Chinese liquor, made in the town of Maotai in China’s Guizhou province. Produced by the state-owned Kweichow Moutai Company, the beverage is distilled from fermented sorghum and now comes in several different varieties. From the box: Made “only in small quantities” yearly, this “small batch blend” is “available only in the finest duty-free shops around the world.” 53% alcohol.

In the course of the evening (photos here) we tasted the spirit in two cocktails and on its own, both the Moutai Small Batch Blend ($275) and the Moutai Legendary China Collection Edition Li Bai ($375). This second edition “honors Li Bai (701-762) regarded as one of the greatest and most prolific poets of the Tang dynasty.”

But, before I get too ahead of myself, before the first cocktail we were entertained by a Chinese calligraphy artist, then before the first sip of Moutai on its own, we were told and shown the proper way to toast with Moutai and told that “in China we greet with spirits, with meaning and with gravity – to the future…Moutai is always considered the national symbol of China” and all Chinese enjoy toasting special occasions with Moutai.

To toast the spirit is poured at room temperature into a tiny glass “invented by Moutai” and then some simple rules are to be followed: Always fill to the rim, hold with both hands to toast each other, the person who wants to show respect to the host, for seniority or to ladies is to bring their glass lower than the person extending the toast. This last part can be quite fun as people will go down to the ground to get their glass lower than their esteemed friend. Then, more rules included “never leave a comrade’s glass empty” so you must help them to fill it. Never drink alone at dinner. If you are toasted then you must toast in return. Don’t toast before the host toasts – who may toast to each table in the room. Then, and only then, it’s fair game to toast more people. The Li Bai edition was served with small Baccarat red crystal decanters into small round matching crystal glasses.

For me, always the student, after noting all of the rules in toasting I settled in to smell and taste both levels of Moutai. I got strong umami notes, soy sauce, salinity, grilled mushroom and maybe a hint of the terracotta vats the spirit had rested in before bottling.

After that first sip we enjoyed a multi-course Chinese influenced dinner, while listening to different musicians and watching a cultural dance. By the end of the evening, and several more toasts of Moutai – for those that had drivers – I believe everyone attending walked away with not only more knowledge about the Chinese spirit, but an appreciation for Moutai and what China brings to the proverbial global table.

Vintage Eve Circa 10/2016: Differentiating Prosecco from Champagne with Astoria Prosecco DOC Trevisio

October 8, 2019 by evebushman

This week I tasted a new Prosecco (at least it was new to me) and along with the bottle for review I received a little education for wine 101ers on the difference between Italy’s Prosecco and France’s Champagne.

Photo: InsideWine.it

First will be my review of the wine and second will be the information from the winery, Astoria Prosecco.

Tasting

When I opened the shipping box the first thing I noticed about the wine was the bottle: it was a in a design that mimicked a large cut crystal wine goblet topped with shiny red foil – very eye catching. Once opened I got aromas of grapefruit, freshly sliced green apple, peach and pear. The same pear and peach were easily detected in the taste, followed by lemon-lime and orange zest. After my sample I made crisp Aperol Spritzers with the remaining wine. All in all, bottle design included in my evaluation as it was so unique, I would give Astoria Prosecco 91 Eve Pts.

The winery tasting notes: Astoria Prosecco DOC Treviso ($13): a pale, straw yellow sparkling wine marked by a fruity bouquet, clean citrus flavors and fine, persistent bubbles.

From Astoria Prosecco

The wine world is full of common myths. Perhaps most common is the misconception that all sparkling wines are created equal. Take Prosecco and Champagne — two bubbly bouteilles of equal delight that are surprisingly cut from two very different cloths.

Let’s break it down:

First, let’s talk region. Prosecco is from Italy and Champagne is from France. Full stop.
Second, consider the grapes. Prosecco is made from Prosecco grapes, also known as “Glera” in Italy. Champagne, on the other hand, is made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes.
And third, while we know it’s taboo to talk money, you can’t help but notice a stark difference in price. That’s because Prosecco is produced using the very affordable “Tank Method” which helps drive down the average cost to just $12 a bottle. By contrast, Champagne is made using the very costly “Méthode Champenoise” or “Traditional Method.” The result? Prices average around $40 a pop.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

More to Learn: Japanese Whisky by Brian Ashcraft

October 4, 2019 by evebushman

On September 27 I did a review of the book Japanese Drinks on this website; today I have a second book on Japanese Whisky alone for you. Similar in format with lots of glossy photos and understandable text, I was impressed with the work of the Japanese distillers and distilleries, their challenges, the differences between them and their Scottish counterparts and some amazing reviews of many whiskies made by six of the leaders.

Some of the information on whisky was covered in the first book I reviewed so I will limit my review to what was new for me to share with you from this second book:

Between 2001 and 2017 Suntory and Nikka whiskies have won over a hundred accolades from prestigious international competitions.

Instead of adopting the spelling as “whiskey” like we do in the states, Japan uses “whisky” along with Canada and Scotland.

Some distillers started out as sake brewers, some continue to make both (sake is traditionally only made in the winter months). Some copper stills were used for shochu making before they were used for whisky. Many big distilleries have their pot stills made in Japan (and their own cooperages) while smaller ones rely on imports. Most distill the spirit only one time.

There are “Japanese twists” to not doing everything the Scottish way in malting, fermentation, distillation, maturation and more. Most malted barley is imported. Most whisky is colored with natural caramel food coloring.

Japanese whisky was first exported to the U.S. in 1934, a year after the end of prohibition. It wasn’t very popular, and with the onset of World War II this grew worse. However, during this period it grew in popularity in Japan.

Japanese whisky is considered “highly aromatic and floral.”

Some Japanese blenders eat the same food for lunch every day to “ensure a consistent” palate. Others avoid fish due to the oils and garlic for its lingering quality.

Mizunara, a rare Japanese white oak, is sometimes used for casks. The word “mizu” means water that the oak retains and “nara” means oak. This Japanese oak was originally used as sherry casks were hard to get in Japan during World War II. The oak is known to “expand the range of flowers” and other aromas in the whisky. There are downfalls: the wood is difficult to work with and all will leak at some point.

At Suntory Yamazaki Distillery they are experimenting with plum wine casks (the also make plum wine) for the finish on some whiskies. They are also aging some whisky in cedar casks.

Masataka Taketsuru, the founder of Nikka Distillery, started his career in Scotland learning all he could about making whisky. From there he became the first distiller in Japan – at Suntory’s Yamazaki Distillery.

Venture Whisky Chichibu Distillery has planted their own Mizunara trees – unfortunately they won’t mature for use for at least 150 years.

Currently there are ideas on using local peat, other local woods and Japanese barley. Smaller distilleries are exploring the idea of working together.

Whisky Reviews

The over 100 reviews are by leading Japanese whisky blogger Yuji Kawasaki. I found these most interesting as some of the descriptors were familiar as ones I’ve used before but others, more in the line of calling up a memory, were not familiar as I don’t live in Japan. Some of my favorites include:

It’s Japanese sliding doors, a tatami room with a flower vase in an alcove and a bird fluttering from a branch. In a whisky, it’s rare to see such beauty as this. Hibiki Deep Harmony.

…it’s rose thorns and faint smoke for an experience that’s reminiscent of hazy sunlight in a gloomy sky. Miyagikyo Single Malt (no age statement).

…it’s like a bouquet of flowers was chucked out of the glass and directly in your face. Miyagikyo Single Malt, 15 YO.

There’s Japanese incense as well as a chalky notes that is reminiscent of the lime powder used on baseball fields. The Nikka Whisky 1999, 34 YO.

There’s a warm bushel of flowers and a slightly open wooden gate leading into a house with a dining table. On it there are grapes and pears waiting to be devoured…Ichiro Malt Five of Spades.

It passes through like an arm going into a sleeve until its one with you in a relaxing and natural way. Ichiro’s Malt Two of Clubs

These descriptions made my mouth water, what about you? Get your book here à https://www.tuttlepublishing.com/japan/japanese-whisky

Vintage Eve Circa 9/2016: Ferrari “Toast of the Emmys” with Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air

October 1, 2019 by evebushman

Ferrari Trento, the Official Sparkling Wine of the recent 2016 Emmys, celebrated their sponsorship of the 68^th Emmy Awards season with an exclusive lunch on Monday, September 19 at Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air. Ferrari has enjoyed a longstanding collaboration with the Wolfgang Puck restaurants, and the lunch was hosted by Matteo Lunelli, CEO of Ferrari.

Never having been to the Hotel Bel Air and arriving early, I snapped a few photos to show other newbies what the grounds looked like – complete with swans, foliage, dining rooms and even the ritzy ladies’ room. From there I entered the area of our tasting to meet our host, Matteo Lunelli, and other #LAWineWriters. We munched on appetizers, also seen in the short video, and sipped our first wine.

Tasting Ferrari Trento AOC – aromas and flavors separated by ;

2007 Blanc de Blanc Perle

Toast, grapefruit, pear, white peach and Brie; honeydew melon, lemon twist, grapefruit. 91 Eve pts.

2008 Perle Rose Trento (80% Pinot Nero, 20% Chardonnay)

Strawberry, cling peaches, raspberry, pineapple; raspberry, green grapes, lemon lime. 93 Eve pts.

2008 Perle “Nero” Blanc de Noir (100% Pinot Noir)

Cheddar, fruit cocktail, white pepper; same fruit profile on the palate, medium acid with a nice viscosity. 92 Eve pts.

2002 Giulio Ferrari Riserva Del Fondatore (100% Chardonnay)

Honey, marshmallow, toasted oak, bruised yellow apple, Botrytis feel; same apple taste in the mouth, followed by a bit of Brandy and steely quality. Was wonderful with blue cheese. 94 Eve pts.

What I Learned

In speaking of the Emmys Lunelli said that Ferrari Trento “brings Italian wine (and) the Italian lifestyle to an amazing event.”

Trentino is located in Northeast Italy, in the center of the mountainous Alps, one hour north of Verona.

The style of the wine is due to the mountain terroir, the Mediterranean climate during the day and the cooling at night.

Lunelli’s grandfather acquired the winery property in 1952.

The Blanc de Blanc obtained recent awards from Robert Parker.

About Ferrari Trento

Established in 1902 by Giulio Ferrari, Ferrari crafts bottle-fermented sparkling wines created with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes cultivated on the slopes of the mountains in northern Italy’s Trentino region, according to the regulations of Trento D.O.C. Ferrari is led by the 3rd generation of the Lunelli family, descendants of Bruno Lunelli, who purchased the estate in 1952. For over a century the winery has continued Giulio Ferrari’s uncompromising search for excellence in every detail, staying true to Trentino and its mountain viticulture in the pursuit of quality, and with an enduring commitment to sustainability. Profoundly Italian in craftsmanship and reputation, Ferrari stands apart as a symbol of the Italian Art of Living, earning the distinction of “Best European Winery of the Year” at the Wine Enthusiast Wine Star Awards in 2015. For more information visit @FerrariTrento or www.ferraritrento.it/EN.

About Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, Fine Dining in Los Angeles

Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air features modern California cuisine with European and Mediterranean influences in a spectacular garden setting. Our chefs visit the farmer’s market every week and select the freshest, most seasonal items to utilize in our menus. Dine in the elegant dining room, on the alfresco terrace, or in the bar and lounge. Learn more about one of the world’s most esteemed chefs, Wolfgang Puck.

I Learned a Lot: Japanese Drinks by Stephen Lyman and Chris Bunting

September 27, 2019 by evebushman

I had titled this review before writing it, then I read this very educational and entertaining book and had to make a change because, well, I learned a lot about Japanese drinks yes, but also about the history and drinking culture in Japan. I found myself taking copious notes – some of which I will share in bullet points below – as well as a shopping list and travel plans. This is what I knew from the publicist:

The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks: Drink your way through Japan (even from home) with the help of: The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks! This comprehensive survey of Japanese drinks covers all the main types of beverages found in Japanese bars and restaurants, as well as supermarkets and liquor stores around the world (including Sake, Shochu, whisky, wine, beer & fruit wines). Descriptions of the beverages, their history, production method, current trends and how to drink them are provided. Detailed bar and buyer’s guides list establishments where readers can go to enjoy and purchase the drinks, both in Japan and cities around the world!

My Review

As I said above I learned a lot. The authors, Stephen Lyman and Chris Bunting, shared all of their information clearly so that anyone from a student of wine and spirits to wine and spirit lovers – that might just want to travel to Japan – would find more than helpful. Chock full of professional photographs, this was one of the best “textbooks” I had the pleasure to read in a long time.

These are a few takeaways for wine 101ers:

First off, you won’t “get lost in translation” as can happen with some book translations, as the authors are American and English.

Japan’s alcohol traditions date back two thousand years. A Chinese author made the first written record in 297 AD.

Early beer brewing was often done at home due to alcohol taxes and regulations. Beer remains the most popular drink in Japan. However, depending on what part of Japan you are in you may find the locals prefer shochu, sake, or wine.

Fermented rice for making sake was originally fermented through human chewing. Steamed rice goes in, spat out into a communal jar, by end of the day the saliva from chewing creates enzymes that turn the starch to a sugar, and yeast begins making it all alcohol – to be consumed that same evening. Wait a week and the concoction would create a beer-strength drink. Google the word for mouth-chewed sake if you like: kuchikamizake.

The word “sake” in Japan refers to all alcohol. Japanese use the word “Nihonshu” to refer to brewed rice sake.

Shochu is a Japanese distilled spirit that can be made from anything that can be distilled; most common is sweet potato, followed by rice and barley. An interesting one to find is the “black-sugar” aka “kokuto” in Japanese – it’s made from blocks of sun-dried molasses found in the Amami Islands. (Note: I’ve sampled a few sweet potato shochu at Japanese trade shows and always look forward to trying them.)

Shochu is distilled three times more in Japan than Tequila is in Mexico. And Shochu is mostly all consumed in Japan.

The spirit Awamori is referred to as “Japanese moonshine” in the book. We get the history, who drinks it (originally for aristocrats) and learn that it’s stronger than Shochu.

In 1853 Bayard Taylor, an American, said that Awamori tasted “old and mellow with a sharp, sweet unctuous flavor, somewhat like a French liqueur.”

Umeshu is a category of plum liqueur as well as for other fermented fruits drinks. The “ume” plum is the most common, a green pickled tart plum, sugar is added during the fermentation process. Many Japanese make the drink at home.

The two early giants in the Japanese whisky market remain the same: Suntory and Nikka. At one point in the early 70s Japan was the fourth largest whisky producer worldwide, and producing three times as much as Ireland. Currently they are garnering more attention for several awards for aged whiskeys.

There is a shout out and recommendation in this book to read the next book I’m reviewing: Brian Ashcraft’s Japanese Whisky.

Gin distillers use the required juniper but they also may add in green tea, bamboo leaves and ginger.

Over 100 beer breweries were open in Japan by the end of the 1800s, two today still stand: Sapporo and Yebisu. Craft breweries began popping up in 1994 as the Japanese minimum production laws changed.

Japanese wine is made most often from Koshu (a white grape varietal – and not the same thing as Koshu aged alcohol) or Muscat Bailey (the red grape varietal). There are many domestic sweetened and inexpensive wines. Manga (adult Japanese comic books) have made huge inroads in creating a desire to learn and taste more Japanese wines.

Cocktail making can be traced back to one bartender that opened many bars – the first without hiring costly entertaining hostesses – trained many bartenders, created an association of bartenders, created a bartending school and focused on professionalism: Tatsuro Yamazaki.

Sake, Shochu, Awamori and Japanese Whisky can be served many different ways and the book goes into detail the differences in each. How each is made is also a good part of the book.

The last two sections of the book is a global bar guide and shopper’s guide – both worth examination if you are looking for a particular Japanese drink near you.

About the Authors

Stephen Lyman interned for a sake distillery in Japan before becoming the first graduate of the Sake School of America’s Shochu Adviser Course and a kikisakeshi (sake sommelier) through Sake Service International. In 2016 he was named the first Honkaku Shochu Ambassador by the Japanese government through the Cool Japan program.

Chris Bunting has worked in London and Japan for publications including the Asahi Shimbun, Times and Independent. He developed his love of Japanese alcohol while living in Tokyo and is the author of Drinking Japan.

Get yours here à https://www.tuttlepublishing.com/japan/the-complete-guide-to-japanese-drinks

Vintage Eve Circa 9/2016: Black Vintners Wine Experience

September 24, 2019 by evebushman

Hello Eve, An increasing number of wineries in South Africa are engaging in transformation through the production of socially sustainable wines made by a new generation of Black winemakers…and with that I was invited to attend a “Black Vintners Wine Experience” hosted by the South African Consulate-General and the Wines of South Africa USA.

What I already knew about South African wines I learned long ago from my WSET and COC Wine Studies instructor DiMaggio Washington. They were known for their Chenin Blanc and Pinotage, the latter being a grape variety that is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault grapes. Both became my favorites as their expressions were unique in my opinion.

Fast forward nearly a decade and both the Wine Spectator, and the Marketing Manager for Wines of South Africa USA, Jim Clarke, report that those wine varieties – specifically Pinotage – are no longer in fashion.

I had no doubt the fashion calls for Bordeaux blends and Sauvignon Blanc, the big sellers in new world wines (new world areas include the U.S., Australia, Argentina, New Zealand, Chile and South Africa) and the wines we were to taste incorporated those varieties and others as well.

Tasting – aromas and flavors separated by ;

Seven Sisters “Twena” Pinotage Rose 2015

Strawberry, yellow peach and wet stones on the nose; then flavors of strawberries dipped in sugar, fruit cocktail with a low acid. 88 Eve pts.

Fairvalley Sauvignon Blanc 2015

Green grass, cheddar cheese and limeade; lime, lemon with a medium acidity. 88 Eve pts.

Solms-Delta Chenin Blanc 2015

Pear, lemon, white pepper, grapefruit; bright, tingly, refreshing, peach and pear. 88 Eve pts.

De Bos “Sure Lie” Chenin Blanc 2014

Powdery, slight earthy notes, crisp apples; nice balance of fruit and acid, easy to drink, subtle fruit. 89 Eve pts.

Fairvalley Pinotage 2014

Plums, black licorice, grilled meat, mushroom, eucalyptus; dry, tobacco, dried plum, black pepper. 89 Eve pts.

Solms-Delta Syrah 2014

Black cherry, milk chocolate and green peppercorn; young, black cherry, dry with firm tannins. 90 Eve pts.

Suo Red collection #2 2014 (Bordeaux Blend)

Black fruit, mint, black pepper; big, dark fruit, blueberry, blackberry. 91 Eve pts.

Mvemve Raats MR de Compostela 2014 (Bordeaux Blend)

Barnyard, earthy, dark chocolate, plum and smoke; brighter fruit in the mouth than the nose indicated, yet still tannic, dark and dusty. 90 Eve pts.

Average retail prices: The whites were all less than $20, the reds ranged from under $20 to $35 on the Suo Red to $65 on the Mvemve Raats. These wines may or may not be available all over the U.S. so please check you local retail outlets. If you don’t see South African wines represented – please ask for them!

From Marketing Manager for Wines of South Africa USA, Jim Clarke:

The winemaking area of South Africa is a small region, about 245,000 acres, located in the Western Cape near Cape town.

South Africa is the seventh or eighth largest wine producer in the world.

Ninety-five percent of the wineries are certified sustainable.

South Africa is the largest producer of Chenin Blanc.

The World Cup put attention on the region.

South Africa has always been a “beer and brandy” drinking area, now there is a new culture that enjoys wine tasting.

Pinotage wine production have gone down from 12 percent to seven percent, however, those making it are serious about doing it well.

The wines of South Africa are more diverse than before.

From more than one member of the consulate:

I asked about the promotion of Black South Africans, specifically vintner scholarships and assistance in winery start-ups.

(The programs) are a good motive for the government to assist Black winemakers…and to get all involved in the country.

Travaglini Gattinara – Nebbiolo in Northern Piedmont – at Angelini Osteria

September 20, 2019 by evebushman

Recently at Angelini Osteria a group of wine writers were invited to an intimate wine tasting and luncheon hosted by Cinzia Travaglini, owner of Travaglini Winery, and her daughter Alessia Collauto Travaglini. Cinzia and Alessia belong to the third and fourth generation of the Travaglini family – a renowned producer of traditional, limited production wines made in the tiny appellation of Gattinara in northern Italy’s esteemed Piedmont region.

Cinzia and Alessia will share their full U.S. range alongside a carefully designed menu, including current releases of Gattinara and Gattinara Riserva, as well as, Tre Vigne – a blend of Nebbiolo grapes from three historic vineyard sites made only in the best vintages, and Il Sogno – a unique appassimento wine, together with a few special, older vintages.

Wine and Tasting

So excited to taste the portfolio of “one of Italy’s most recognizable wines and the #1 selling Gattinara in the world.” The first thing that struck me, besides meeting the amazing mother-daughter team and before my first taste of anything was the shape of the bottles. Misshapen, like a Chateauneuf Du Pape, but with a slightly rounded front, flat back and sides, except for one notch that holds the thumb perfectly for pouring. We later learned that they designed the bottle in 1958 with the idea of both a decanter shape and one that catches sediment. No other winery has adopted their design.

Cinzia talked about the volcanic soil in the Gattinara area, its proximity to the Alps, “more fresh” weather and how each of these elements contributes to the elegance in the wine. She said it was easy to drink with all foods – which we would soon learn for ourselves.

Alessia explained that her grandfather planted vineyards in the 1920s, with a focus on quality over quantity. They produce 20 thousand cases per year.

Nebole 2013 – aromas and flavors separated by ;

We were greeted with a taste of their sparkling wine that was made from 100% Nebbiolo – as were all of the wines we were to taste – that had been vinified into a white wine. Lemon zest, talcum powder, white flower; bruised yellow apple, sawdust, lively with medium acid.

Nebbiolo Coste Della Sesia DOC 2017

Aged four months in stainless steel followed by 10 months in Slovenian oak. Can be drunk after 2 years or 40. Rose petal, stewed tomatoes, dry earth; dry red fruit, tannic, oak and a long finish.

Gattinara DOCG 2015

After stainless steel fermentation the wine underwent two years on Slovenian oak casks of different sizes. Earth, spice, dried red cherries, tree bark, barnyard; small red berries, dry, tobacco.

Gattinara Tre Vigne DOCG 2013

Three vineyard blend, aged four years in Slovenian oak after initial time in stainless. However, for that last fourth year, 20% is aged in barrique. The wine is later blended together and then rests for an additional 10 months in bottle. Earth, grilled mushroom, incense, crushed red fruit; got that same red fruit and mushroom on the palate, gritty, dry with a long finish.

Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2013

35-60 year old estate vines, aged three years in different sized barrels of Slovenian oak, then rests in bottle for an additional year. Floral, aromatic, milk chocolate; spice, red fruit and bright.

Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2009

These last three wines may have been my favorites of the tasting. This one, a 2009 and the 2006 that follows, definitely surprised me and I commented to Cinzia how remarkably different the aromas and flavors were between the older wines and their younger siblings. I also learned from Cinzia – after I mentioned this – that these two were “considered great vintages.” 35-60 YO vines, three years in Slovenian oak and one year in bottle. Plum, bark, dark chocolate, brown sugar; layered dark fruit, tobacco, dusty and lingering.

Gattinara Tre Vigne DOCG 2006

The second “great vintage” wine came from three different estate vineyards, four years in Slovenian oak, 20% held back in barrique for the final year, then blended back in with the rest of the wine and rests in bottle for 10 months. Blueberry, blackberry, perfumy, toasted wood; plums, slightly sweet with a beautiful balance of dusty fruits and tannins.

Il Sogno 2014

100 days of drying out leaving only 50% of the water in the grapes, 40 months in Slovenian oak, in bottle for 10 months rest. The highest % of alcohol in the line-up with 15.5. Fleshy red fruit, stems, earth, mint; slightly sweet, chocolate covered black cherry, easy to drink with lots of lovely berries and tannin.

The Menu

There was no specific pairing for the foods and the wine. We had three wines per course, per se, to try. I found that the younger lighter wines were perfect with the tomato and cheese course and the Branzino, while the older reds were outstanding with the lasagna and steak. I had to agree with Cinzia, the wines paired well with all types of foods. This is the full menu:

FIRST COURSE

Insalata Caprese, Market Tomatoes, Fresh Burrata, Aged Balsamic, Basil. (Healthy portion of cheese and we all inhaled this dish.)

SECOND COURSE

Pasta Duo: Bombolotti all Norma, Eggplant, Tomato, Basil, Dried Ricotta.

Lasagna Verde “Omaggio Nonna Elvira”, Beef and Veal Ragu.

(This was truly to die for. As I’m writing this I’ve just finished the leftovers they packed up for me. I will never want plain lasagna again.)

THIRD COURSE

Choice of: Grilled Branzino Filet, Chopped Tomatoes, Sautéed Mixed Vegetables.

Grilled Organic Chicken, Roasted Potatoes, Spinach.

Grilled Hanger Steak, Arugula, Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.

(I shared the fish and steak with a couple of other people but missed out on the chicken. The fish was so delicate and so wonderful with the younger reds as I stated earlier, and the steak was delectable with the older reds. I linger over this in my mind now…)

PER FINIRE

Selection of Cheeses.

Housemade Biscotti.

(I had to skedaddle on the road so I missed this finale. I saw photos and heard from other writers in attendance that both the cheeses and the desserts were incredible.)

Photos of the food and wine here.

About Travaglini

Driven by a passion for exceptional Nebbiolo, the Travaglini family has been producing remarkable, limited- production wines in Gattinara for four generations. The Travaglini family has owned land in Gattinara since the beginning of the 19th century. The family’s winemaking tradition started with Clemente Travaglini, who was succeeded by his son Arturo, however, it was not until 1958 when Arturo’s son, Giancarlo, took the helm that the Travaglini Estate Winery was established as it exists today.

Today, the Travaglini family owns 146 acres of vineyards, 128 of which are dedicated to vines, primarily Nebbiolo, covering roughly 50% of total vineyards within the Gattinara DOCG. This small appellation lies in the rocky foothills of the Monte Rosa range, where ventilating winds blow down from the nearby Alps. Soils are rocky and rich in porphyry, granite and iron. Similar in composition to the Alps, Monte Rosa’s sedimentary rock is highly acidic, due to low levels of calcium carbonate and magnesium, and an absence of calcium. Vines grown in this rare soil produce grapes with a unique flavor profile, high acidity and firm tannins. The finished wines offer refreshing acidity, soft tannins, minerality and complexity.

https://www.travaglinigattinara.it/en/winery/

About Angelini Osteria

Gino Angelini has become known as simply everyone’s favorite Italian chef in Los Angeles, winning over the city with his authentic dishes. The Angelini brand has evolved into three divisions: dining, catering and products.

In 2001, Gino Angelini and his wife Elizabeth opened Angelini Osteria, an Italian restaurant in Los Angeles. Since opening, Angelini Osteria has become one of LA’s most celebrated restaurants. The Osteria has blazed the trail for many Italian dishes in Los Angeles, including its famous Linguine Sea Urchin and the sought after Spaghetti Norcina. To this day the Osteria remains family owned and controlled.

The Angelini’s partnered with 17-year veteran employee, Girolamo Rindone, to open a classic Italian bar, Angelini Alimentari. Angelini Alimentari is a gourmet fast-casual dining concept featuring light California-Italian inspired breakfast, lunch and dinner fare with an focus on pickup and delivery.

https://www.angelinirestaurantgroup.com/angelini-osteria