Vintage Eve Circa 8/2013: Tasting, and Learning, from Louie Lucas of Lucas and Lewellen Vineyards

June 20, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Walking into the Lucas and Lewellen Vineyards tasting room on the popular Copenhagen Drive in Solvang, I was pleased to have my winery appointment set up with Louie Lucas himself. Before we even sat down he started giving us some history of his winery.

Louie Lucas is on the far right, with his hands on his award-winning grapes. Photo from Facebook.

With 400 acres, and four different properties, Lucas and Lewellen grows 25 grape varietals. The tasting room had been open for 10 years – serving up to 25 wines. The planting began in 1970 and Lucas has been in the area for 40 years.

The current winemaker for the last five years is Megan McGrath Gates, who went to UC Davis for her wine credentials.

Wining Awards For Others

Lucas and Lewellen Vineyards has a long history of selling grapes to Napa wineries as well as more local winemakers. So, his grapes “win awards for others”. And he also makes wines for others, like actress Jane Seymour. Amongst his list is Chardonnay to Kendall Jackson, more goes to Jed Steele of Steele wines, Muscat to Napa’s Castello di Amorosa, Gewurztraminer to V. Sattui and Syrah to winemaking legend Heidi Barrett.

I asked Lucas if I could mention this in my article, he hesitated for two seconds and then agreed, saying, “Its too late for them to get me!”

Lucas’ father and grandfather were grape growers, and what they produced had to be perfect and blemish free, even the stems had to be cured. “You grow good grapes,” Lucas said. “And you get good wine.”

“Today we buy from catalogs when shopping for root stocks,” Lucas said in regards to how things have changed in 40 years. “So many more variations then we had before, and all are supposed to be resistant to disease, we shall see.”

Lucas and Lewellen has 1200 French oak barrels, and buys both new and used. They added 300 new barrels last year and are experimenting with hybrid barrels that are made from half American and half French oak.

Tasting

2011 Blanc de Noirs Brut Sparkling wine, 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay

Juicy fruit strawberry and peach on the nose, nice toast and jam on the palate. They don’t make the wine, instead they use a sparkling wine facility to make it, and only use their handpicked grapes. Outstanding.

Viognier 2012

A touch of stainless steel, followed by peach, kiwi, candied ginger and pear on the nose. Very balanced on the taste. Perfect.

2009 Chenin Blanc

White peaches, lime, green grapes, green grass. Great viscosity, mouth coating, not acidic.

Gewurztraminer 2011

Lemons, earth, peppermint on nose. Same gentle mouthfeel and low acid.

2011 Old Vine Moscato

2% residual sugar. Candied orange, wet wood, cloves.

2012 Pinot Noir Rose (100% Pinot)

Cherry, stems, rose petals…again, that nice balance and viscosity.

2009 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir, Estate

New clones since the “movie” (a nod to “Sideways”), and now making outstanding Pinot Noir wines from 10 different clones.

Good dark cherries, dry, green peppercorns.

2010 High Nine Pinot 667 clone, Santa Maria.

Smokey, charred, bright red fruit, long finish.

Malbec 2010

Blue and red fruit, dry, medium length. A favorite.

2007 Petit Verdot

Inky black color, blue fruit, blueberry jam rolled up in a pancake on the nose. Mature and tannic on the palate. Another fave.

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Cote del Sol (means “The Sun side”)

Balanced red and blue fruit and tannins, very good, long finish.

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Valley View

83 cab percent and all other Bordeaux grapes

Balanced, dusty, plums bell pepper.

2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 6

Dark purple, jammy, dry toast, plums.

http://www.llwine.com

Tasting Room: 1645 Copenhagen Dr., Solvang, CA 93463

Australia Up Close: Part Two

June 16, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

…enjoy making new discoveries as well as trying the latest vintages of old favorites.

Last week I wrote about the Australian white wine seminar I attended via the Australia Up Close event; what I learned and what we tasted. It got a little lengthy so I split up the story into two parts. Today is what happened the second part of the day, after the seminar, and is limited to all of the Australian red wines that I sampled in a walk around tasting; those that I loved and hope to get my hands on again.

My favorites (of those tables I got to as I know I missed quite a bit) are listed below. Wineries part of the “Australia’s First Families of Wine” designation that I liked are noted as an AFF Wine.

Trade Tasting Participating Wineries

Andrew Peace Wines

Ashton Hills

Austins

Ben Haines

Best’s Great Western

Bethany

Brokenwood

Brown Brothers

Campbells of Rutherglen

Cape Mentelle – 2013 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot blend; 2014 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot blend.

Climbing

Cullen

Dalrymple

d’Arenberg (AFF Wine) – 2013 “The Dead Arm” McLaren Vale Shiraz; 2013 “The Ironstone Pressings” McLaren Vale Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre blend; 2013 “The Coppermine Road” McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon; 2011 “The Old Bloke and Three Young Blondes” McLaren Vale Shiraz, Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne blend. (The Old Bloke…only used 2% of each white wine varietal listed in the blend. They are newly biodynamic and organic. This may have been my favorite table.)

De Bortoli Wines

Delinquente

DiGiorgio Family Wines

Fowles Wine

Giant Steps

Handpicked Wines

Helen & Joey Estate

Henry’s Drive

Henschke Wines

Howard Park (AFF Wine) 2012 “Abercrombie” Mount Barker Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon; 2009 “Abercrombie” Mount Barker Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon. (While both were excellent I enjoyed the younger 2012 for all of the outstanding fruit and peppery notes. There was no irrigation used – though the vineyards have irrigation if needed – and the vines were planted in 1975.)

Innocent Bystander

Jansz Tasmania

Jasper Hill

Jim Barry (AFF Wine) – 2014 “1877” Hilltops Shiraz.

John Duval

Kaesler

Kilikanoon

Koonara

Langmeil

Leeuwin Estate

Mac Forbes

McWilliam’s Wines

McPherson Wine Co

Negotiants USA – 2014 Langmeil “Orphan Bank” Barossa Valley Shiraz (Vines had to be moved, 90% survived, and were called orphans due to the move.)

Nova Vita

Ocean Eight

Old Bridge Cellars – 2014 John Duval “Eligo” Barossa Shiraz; 2015 Cullen “Diana Madeline” Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot blend; 2013 Jasper Hill “Georgia’s Paddock” Heathcote Shiraz. (They only made 600 cases of my favorite at this table, the Eligo.)

Penfolds – 2014 “Bin 389” Barossa Valley Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz blend; 2014 “Bin 407” Coonawarra Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon; 2014 “RWT” Barossa Valley Shiraz. (Who isn’t familiar with Penfolds? I stuck to just the wines I didn’t know, so damn good. The vines for these wines were planted between 1951 and 1960.)

Penley Estate

Peter Lehmann – 2012 “Stonewell” Barossa Shiraz.

Pewsey Vale

Pikes

Rob Dolan

Rogers & Rufus

Rymill Coonawarra

Schild Estate – 2013 “Moorooroo Ancestor Vines” Barossa Valley Shiraz. (170 year old vines, two years in both new and old French oak and then two years in bottle before release. Worth the wait for this 100% Shiraz.)

Shaw + Smith

Snake & Herring

Syrahmi

Tahbilk Winery

Thorn-Clarke Wines

Tolpuddle

Torbreck Vintners – 2009 “The Factor” Barossa Valley Shiraz; 2014 “The Struie” Barossa Valley Shiraz; 2014 “RunRig” Barossa Valley Shiraz and Viognier. (Only 3.5 % of Viognier was used in this blend to “soften” the wine and for a “tonal” lift. It worked.)

Tournon

Tyrrell’s Wines

Vasse Felix

Vinaceous

Voyager Estate

Wakefield Wines (AFF Wine) – 2013 “St. Andrew’s” Clare Valley Shiraz had a lovely touch of sweetness and great balance.

Wicks
Wirra Wirra – 2013 RSW McLaren Vale Shiraz (With vines between 40-60 years old, low yield production and the vineyard was originally planted in 1890.)

Woodstock

Yaldara

Yalumba (AFF Wine) – 2013 “The Signature” Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz blend.

Yarra Yering – 2010 “Dry Red No. 1” Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec blend; 2013 “Old Bastard” Barossa Valley Grenache Mourvedre blend. (These both got big “wows” from me.)

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Vintage Eve Circa July 2013: Tasting with the Southern California Whisky Club (SCWC)

June 13, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

SCWC presents the complete line from the 2012 Best Independent Bottler of the Year Single Cask Nation. Joshua Hatton, President & Co-founder of the Jewish Whisky Company, will be pouring all six single cask, single malts…

Our host Joshua Hatton began by telling the tasters assembled that he started out as a whisky blogger and continues to write on JewMalt.com. By 2010 he started an independent bottling company with a friend. They would go to a distillery company, ask about bottling, and so far everyone has said yes. Their company distills one barrel at a time.

When they visit for a tasting Joshua is asked what kind of cask they would like, and depending on the distillery, they know what type of cask to ask for. They had over 1000 samples and only made three cask strength whiskies. Of that they only had 148 bottles to share of the Glen Moray (tasted below). In a quest to get whisky knowledge out to the public the distillery may also give their own vintages to compare side by side.

Josh is joined in the company by Jason Johnstone-Yellin, the Vice President and Co-founder and Seth Klaskin, the Secretary and General Counsel. When they taste and select which barrels to purchase Josh said, “all three must be wowed.”

The Jewish Whisky Company has the motto “One nation, under Whisky” in bottling their selected rare single cask Whiskys. The company does the independent bottling and only sells through membership and not in retail stores. http://www.SingleCaskNation.com

Each whisky we were to taste was accompanied by notes regarding aging and yield. All were bottled at cask strength sometime between 2012 – 2013 and all hovered at 50% ABV* or more.

Josh then asked the group if they had the opportunity to drink cask strength before and I think my hubby and I were the only ones that didn’t do this on a regular basis.

Tasting Privately Bottled Cask Strength Whisky

Glen Moray 12: Bourbon cask 12 years. No nose burn even without water. Buttery hazelnut nose, honey, sweet nose, smoke, butter, some lemon. On the mouth some burn without water, nutty, white fruit. (According to Josh they chose high-octane whiskys that you didn’t have to add water to.)

Arran 12: Bourbon cask and then Pinot Noir. The distillery is located on the West coast of Scotland. Arran is a fan of Macallan and designed their stills alike. Josh called this one a “Kookie Bear” as it went from Bourbon to Pinot Noir cask for four years giving it a double maturation. This was the first that wowed the three business partners and became the first to bottle. Dark honey color, creamy nose with nuances of almonds. The nose followed through to the taste – with what Josh described as dark chocolate and red fruits. I’m liking it! Even more with water, the Pinot Noir influence may be what balanced it out.

Dalmore 12: Pedro Ximenez sherry (not commonly used) hogshead** after bourbon hogshead. Dalmore is my whisky friend Marshall Naiman’s favorite distillery. Darker color, indicative of longer time in sherry cask. Caramel, bananas foster dessert on the nose. Sharp, sweet, something pleasingly green and vegetal. My NEW favorite. Balvenie Doublewood 12 year old, also aged in sherry casks, totally pales in comparison now for me.

Benriach 17: Bourbon cask. There’s the PEAT MOSS I hadn’t nosed yet! Not overwhelming – thankfully. But yet, I can discern some sweetness. My palate wasn’t ready for the Bananas Foster that Josh mentioned on this one. A little oily with some dried fruit. Not a fave as I’m not a peat fan, but I can appreciate the gentleness of this interpretation.

Laphroaig 6: Bourbon hogshead. Lightest color so far. Totally different nose, not as peaty, reminiscent of a Tequila for some tasters including me, with cigarette and vanilla on the palate. More creaminess came out with more water. Brandon Bartlett, Laphroaig rep and Sr. Sales Manager with Jim Beam, said that he hadn’t had one like this before and liked it.

Kilchoman 4***: Bourbon cask. This is one Chris Uhde turned us on to at Whisky Live LA. Another peated Whisky, but not as much according to Marshall. Now, at my third peated taste, this one had a sweeter quality on the nose. Happy to learn that a Buffalo Trace Bourbon stamp was on this cask. I actually liked this one despite the peat. The nose (after water) and taste is not all peat moss; instead I got cream, cinnamon, and an oily mouthfeel. Josh said it was his “Breakfast Whisky” that helped him shovel snow one cold blustery morning. And tasting in the morning, while the palate is fresh, Josh said that’s the best time to taste whisky. He sampled 8 casks before settling on this one. This one really shined he said; for the mouthfeel, sweetness and gunpowder (a spent gun shell/powder) qualities.

Conclusion: Join The Club To Get These Whiskies!

*Alcohol by volume.

**hogshead: A larger capacity barrel.

***Kilchoman is a very young distillery, established in 2005, its pretty recent to Islay.

“Single Cask Nation is a private, members-only whisky society. The only way to gain access to our exclusive releases is to become a member of the Nation. While access to our bottlings is the number one benefit associated with membership, we’ve also put together welcome packs for each membership level.” Memberships are explained in detail here.

Wine 101ers Get: AUSTRALIA UP CLOSE Part One

June 9, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

With a geographical size similar to the US and distinct climates, soils and terroirs, its no surprise that Australia boasts an array of wine styles, regions and grape varieties for you to experience.

This was an intriguing teaser to a recent Australian wine event I attended. I went in knowing very little about Australian white wines so I signed up for their seminar, and then knew I would enjoy the walk around tasting to get my fill of the wines I was more familiar with: Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignons and many Bordeaux and Rhone blends.

SEMINAR – White Wines: Unique Expressions of Australian Riesling, Semillon and Chardonnay

Australia is blessed with regions and climates that can produce truly world-class wines from the noblest of vines. Discover the many exciting expressions of Riesling, Semillon and Chardonnay being produced across Australia’s diverse wine regions. Presented by special guests and winemakers, and moderated by Wine Australia.

Our Seminar Panelists

Fahara Zamorano – Head Sommelier, Gwen LA; Matt Kaner – Owner, Bar Covell & Augustine; Kyle Meyer – Wine Exchange; Bruce Tyrrell – Tyrrell’s Wines; Jeff Burch – Howard Park Wines; Jeff McWilliam – McWilliam’s Wines; Mark Davidson, Wine Australia (Moderator).

Seminar Wines – Flavors and Aromas separated by ;

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Hunter Semillon Hunter Valley 2011 – Green apple, pineapple lemon zest, Mandarin orange and white pepper all on the nose; with lemon-lime, bruised apple and a medium acidity on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon Hunter Valley 2009 – I smelled apple, pear, fresh lemon, pears in light syrup; then tasted bright and tangy fresh fruit – same as those I found on the nose. 90 Eve pts.

Ashbrook Estate Semillon Margaret River 2015 – Perfumy aroma, then bruised yellow apple, cream and a pale hint of cinnamon; viscous on the mouth, as well as slightly paler fruit and a long finish. 90 Eve pts.

Silkman Estate Semillon Hunter Valley 2015 – Lemon, toast, grapefruit and unsalted butter on the nose; followed by tart apple and limeade on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Pewsey Vale Contours Riesling Eden Valley 2011 – Fruit cocktail, green grass to yellow hay, floral and bright; that same bright quality came through on the taste as well as lemon, grass, acidity, bone dry. 90 Eve pts.

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling Clare Valley 2016 – Bright aromas of pears and kiwi fruit; followed by lemon, orange and steel on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling Frankland River 2015 – Green apple, crushed green leaves and a whiff of orange on the nose; the palate was very sharp citrus fruit: lemon and orange, a slight viscosity and a long dry finish. 90 Eve pts.

Pressing Matters R9 Riesling Tasmania 2015 – My favorite of all the white wines I tasted with aromas of sweet orange blossoms, apple pie and a bit of cream; then came a slightly sweet and lingering fresh lemon-lime fruit on the mouth. 91 Eve pts. (All of the Riesling shared the same bone dry quality, except this expression from Tasmania.)

McWilliam’s 842 Chardonnay Tumbarumba 2013 – Fresh oak, honey, barnyard, earth, citrus, butter and white pepper on the nose; then the taste was tart, some oak and apple. 91 Eve pts.

Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay Mornington Peninsula 2012 – Earthy, dried apple, butter, clove and steely; then bruised apple, tart with medium acid. 90 Eve pts.

Howard Park Miamup Chardonnay Margaret River 2015 – Toast, lemon, cream, and a general feeling of being in a sweet floral garden; the flavors were bright, tart and citrusy with a medium acidity and long finish. 89 Eve pts.

Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay Adelaide Hills 2014 – Creamery butter, lemon and green fields; then that same lemon on the mouth, but light, and a leaner acidity. 89 Eve pts.

What I Learned From Our Panelists and the White Wine Tasting

One of our panelists stated that if you remotely expect that a Semillon from Australia would taste like one from Bordeaux, France you would be dead wrong. If you thought that a Riesling from Australia would taste like its German counterpart you would be equally wrong. My tasting notes above probably express this.

Australia is considered a New World wine area, however, Meyer would like us to see their wines as truly old world, but with an edge. The vines are very old, the area is larger than Europe and Phylloxera has never hit them.

The 12 elite wineries in “Australia’s First Families of Wine” group have several criteria to meet including their dedication to promote Australian wine to the global market, 100% family owned and have to have at least a 20 year vertical.

Next week I will run part two of the tasting, the reds I got to try, on June 16 here on this blog.

Circa 7/13 Vintage Eve: Five Questions with the Lady Herself, Lady Ducayne SCV Food Blogger

June 6, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

My friend and food blogger Lady Ducayne has two, count ‘em, two websites tucked neatly under her belt: The original Lady Ducayne blog and now as the highlighted restaurant blogger for SantaClarita.com, SCV Eats with Lady Ducayne Blog. Lady Ducayne, who prefers to work anonymously, has succinctly reigned in all of the attention from local restaurants…luckily for me, she doesn’t drink. (2017 Editor’s Note: Lady Ducayne reviews can now be found at http://eatscv.com/)

Golden Spoon, by Lady Ducayne

I met the Lady herself through one of her tweet-ups that she sometimes organizes to introduce her followers to a Lady Ducayne-approved restaurant. I learned from that first meeting and through reading her blog that she doesn’t pull any punches when met with mediocre dish and never fails to praise when a chef makes a dish bloom.

So here are my five questions that I thought SCV Beacon readers would want the answers to:

EB: I know that your reviews are your opinions alone, but it’s clearly obvious that you are a “foodie.” Tell us, how did you learn so much about food?

LD: I always say I’m just a hungry girl with a camera, and I’ve been that way ever since I can remember! The credit goes to my parents, because from such a young age they always took me out to try the latest and greatest eats throughout Los Angeles, and beyond. We also traveled a lot, whether it was a quick road trip up the coast, or gaining some stamps on my passport, I feel that those experiences shaped who I am today. I’m a traveler, not a tourist, and even street food in a different country has never let me down.

Now that I’m older, I’ve learned so much more about how the restaurant industry works and what goes on inside a professional kitchen from my better half. He is a professional cook and currently works at a well regarded, award-winning restaurant on Fairfax in Los Angeles. I’m not as quick to judge a place anymore, and when something goes wrong during a meal, or I complain about something seemingly trivial, he explains the possible causes to me. I feel this helps my writing in that I can see things more objectively.

EB: You don’t call restaurants ahead, and arrange for interviews over their best dishes like other reporters do. Can you tell us why?

LD: I don’t consider myself a reporter, I’m just a customer with a camera. Ever since I can remember, friends have always asked me where they should go out to eat, and the blog started as a place to make it easier to show them. I also feel that you get a more genuine experience that way. A large majority of my posts are just from me going to lunch after work or heading out to dinner with a group of friends. My motive for going to these places is that I was hungry and needed a place to eat, since I don’t cook at home. I just happen to always have my camera in my purse. If a place is worth writing about (be it good or bad) then I’ll do it. I just want to keep it genuine and not forget the essence of why I started the blog.

EB: Professional photographs always accompany your reviews. Is it difficult to remain anonymous in a restaurant when you whip out a real camera instead of a cell phone to take your mouth-watering photos?

LD: Yes! I have a DSLR and I try to be as discreet as possible when taking photos, which is incredibly difficult! I also want to snap the perfect photo before the food gets cold so I try to be quick and stealthy. Funny, because I always joke that I know my friends don’t read my blog, they just look at the photos.

EB: Tell us what some of your favorite SCV restaurants are.

LD: My favorite restaurant in Santa Clarita is Sabor Cocina Mexicana located in the Bridgeport Marketplace. It reminds me of my travels to San Miguel de Allende. For a quick after school meal, you can find me at Rustic Eatery eating a prime cut sandwich on house made bread, served with a side of fresh cut fries. I’ve actually overheard a couple of customers come in and mention to the owner that they read about Rustic from “Lady Ducayne’s website” and I just get so embarrassed and quietly keep eating my sandwich. I’m flattered, of course, but I still think my friends are the only ones that visit the site.

EB: Of the restaurants in town that haven’t fared well in your reviews, what were some of the reasons? Lack or originality? Fresh ingredients? Service?

LD: Getting decent service is a huge problem in Santa Clarita. Lack of communication between front of house and back of house is evident in many local restaurants. At a majority of the places that have come and gone from SCV, the common factor I’ve noticed is that the owners seemed to be more interested in looking good and walking around and talking about themselves, instead of focusing on the food coming out of the kitchen. In LA, Bill Chait is a successful restaurateur, but he’s not above bussing a dirty table or refilling a water glass. When I go to a place, I like to see real heart and genuine concern in providing a great experience to diners, which is why I like supporting mom and pop restaurants locally. I try to avoid chains, except once a year when I get the Red Lobster cheddar biscuit craving.

If a place is absolutely dreadful, and I decide to post about it, I’ll omit the name or make it a blind item. I haven’t done that in a while because I haven’t had a terrible experience lately, and if I did then it wasn’t worth writing about. Most of those places don’t last long anyway. Having said that, I just ate the worst slice of tiramisu in my life over by Tesoro del Valle. I’ve been contemplating a post titled “Sad Tiramisu” but haven’t quite figured out how I want to go about it. I feel like that place lacks customers so they just gave up. The pastries look sad, the workers look bored, and no care is taken into plating or presentation. If you go through the trouble and risk involved in opening a restaurant, a little heart and soul (and research) goes a long way. Open a cookbook, look at what pastry chefs are doing at their own bakeries, find inspiration, and customers will come.

EB: I couldn’t help myself, but in adding a sixth question, I have to know why the name Lady Ducayne?

I don’t get that question as often as one would think so thanks for asking! I majored in English Literature as an undergrad, and right around the time period I was contemplating a blog, my professor assigned a short story titled Good Lady Ducayne by Mary Elizabeth Braddon. I couldn’t come up with a name for my site (and didn’t want to use my real name of course) but as I was procrastinating on my reading assignment, and probably doodling in the margins, it just clicked, and that’s how I became known as Lady Ducayne.

Tasting and Getting to Know: Chateau Angelus

June 2, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Getting to meet the newest (8th Generation) Estate Director and third female Director in the history of Chateau Angelus, Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, was a huge treat for me. Add that we would meet over dinner at Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air – and taste at least five different vintages – and I was over the top with delight.

What I Learned

In 2012 Chateau Angelus, a Premier Grand Cru, was awarded a “class A” distinction.

The 2012 vintage bottle is completely different looking from the others with gold embossing instead of a front label. You can read more about it in this Forbes article.

The bell shown on the label does exist, and rings three times daily. You can hear it yourself without traveling to Saint-Emilion here. There is now a chip hidden in that bell to avoid counterfeiting.

The name Angelus is in reference to a Catholic prayer.

The estate vineyards are predominantly Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

Prices, between $350 to $450, can increase 100% after release. (The restaurant had one vintage for $880.)

The Wine

Stéphanie was enchanting, the venue and food lovely – all eclipsed by some remarkable vintages that were chosen to show us the range and depth of the wines. We tasted in this order:

2014: (Bottled September 2016, this latest release marks the 30^th vintage with a banner on the bottle). Ripe and dark with black fruit as well as raspberry, earth and smoke. Remarkably open and ready to drink. 94 Eve pts.

2012: (With a gold embossed bottle in honor of the new class A distinction.) Great fruit flavors like plum and blueberry were followed by mushroom, spice and had a great backbone. This was my favorite. 97 Eve pts.

2007: (Stéphanie said she loved this one.) Big fruit that included black plums, blackberry, a bit softer on the spice, cigar and dark tannins that were starting to soften. The red fruit really opened up in the mouth. 94 Eve pts.

2006: The fruit – red to black – had aged perfectly; the wine was dry, mildly spiced and held a perfect balance. 97 Eve pts.

2010: (Thought to be the most outstanding.) Bolder fruit, peppery, tannic, Stéphanie said it was opulent, one of the best they’ve produced, and my second favorite. 97 Eve pts.

http://www.angelus.com/en/

https://www.instagram.com/chateauangelus/

https://www.facebook.com/chateauAngelus

THE OTHEROOM ANNOUNCES LAS VEGAS DEBUT AT THE FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS PALACE

May 29, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

A trendy neighborhood favorite in LA and New York, The Otheroom is set to bring its unique and sophisticated bar and restaurant concept to Vegas

LAS VEGAS – The Otheroom, the stylish and unique bar concept that has long been a favorite of the fashionable set in LA and New York, is preparing to open its doors in Las Vegas at The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace later this spring. Known for its sexy atmosphere and premium selection of fine wines and craft beers, The Otheroom Las Vegas will also boast a new addition to the concept – a signature cocktail line and gourmet bites.

The Las Vegas outpost of this swanky neighborhood haunt, which for more than 30 years has attracted celebrities and tastemakers who appreciate an under-the-radar drink, will occupy premium real estate within The Forum Shops footprint with street-level access to Las Vegas Boulevard and dedicated patio space in front of the Strip-side Trevi Fountain landmark. The upscale lounge and dining concept is the latest addition to The Forum Shops, which celebrate the 25^th Anniversary of opening this May.

“As a premier hub for hospitality and entertainment, Las Vegas was a logical next step for expanding The Otheroom brand,” said The Otheroom Managing Partner Pete Nowak. “Our location within The Forum Shops will expose The Otheroom brand to the upscale clientele that patronize the high-end retail outlets inside, while the more casual outdoor patio seating will allow even more visitors to enjoy our premium hospitality offerings. We are thrilled to bring our brand of sophistication to the Las Vegas Strip.”

Nowak, who boasts more than 20 years of experience in entertainment and hospitality development and management, heads up an all-star team of hospitality operators and financiers. Liam Dwyer, a Light Group veteran with background developing and opening successful concepts in Las Vegas, New York City, The Hamptons and Ireland, will serve as General Manager. Element Management Group, known for other highly successful hospitality concepts in Las Vegas, San Francisco and Denver, will serve as the operating partner.

The 3,200 square-foot lounge and patio will feature a chic, candle-lit aesthetic with industrial, yet glamorous, brick and metal finishes, providing patrons a seductive setting that blends both masculine and feminine touches. A curated playlist of contemporary, chill tunes further enhance the vibe immersing the customer in an intoxicating assault of the senses which is amplified by the impressive list of on-tap craft beers and selection of fine wines accompanied by the rich flavor profiles of the restaurant’s small bites menu.

ABOUT THE OTHEROOM

The Otheroom is a unique brand of hip and sophisticated bars and restaurants with flagship locations in New York City and Los Angeles. For more than 30 years, The Otheroom has served as the neighborhood haunt of choice for celebrities and tastemakers in Venice Beach, Calif. and Manhattan’s West Village. Offering a stylish and vibrant setting for an affluent clientele, The Otheroom is known for its fine wine selections and list of hand-picked craft beers. As the brand expands into other major U.S. markets and glamorous destinations abroad, the concept continues to evolve and now offers a signature line of cocktails and delicious gourmet bites at select locations. For more information or for reservations, visit TheOtheroom.net.

Getting Our Cocktail Glass Filled by Brady Weise

May 26, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

This week we learn all about veteran “Barman” Brady Weise, followed by a 5-question interview that should interest those that want a rewarding bar career and those of us that just like spending time in a bar.

Brady Weise, Barman

With a flare for the flavorfully dramatic and the keen instincts that gift top‐notch bartenders, Brady Weise has carved the perfect spot for himself among L.A.’s cocktail elite by creating memorable cocktails, many of which find their base in beer.

It’s no surprise, considering Weise started brewing his own beer at 15 and won his first award for it at 16. The journey to becoming a professional bartender started in Chicago, where a marketing company hired Weise to launch Yellowtail Wines in Japan. When that venture was a success, Weise moved on to creating his own alcohol import/export business, which inspired him to step behind the bar and that is when he realized there was much for him to learn.

He moonlighted at a few spots in Chicago and San Francisco, and then moved back to Los Angeles, where he split his time between building cocktail programs in Hollywood and working the bar at the famed Library Bar at The Roosevelt Hotel. After the Roosevelt, Weise moved to Pasadena where he was a lynchpin of the 1886 bar at the Raymond. Staying loyal to his roots and his market, Weise was one of the principal architects of the cocktail program at the Rathskeller. Still creating and always challenging conceptions with his work, Brady has moved into the event area where he spends his hours educating consumers and restaurant staff alike about new products and their space in the marketplace.

And as Weise shares his unique cocktails with his dedicated clientele, his passion for liquid creations continues. Says Weise, “One of my favorite things is stepping behind the bar. It’s always changing, it’s always interesting and there’s never a dull moment. It’s such an interesting place to be!”

Q and A With Brady

Where do you see the future of spirits leading?

The spirits industry is going through an unprecedented shift with massive consolidation of brand portfolios, huge multi-billion dollar mergers, and a marketing storm that we have never seen before. Part of this change is due to a failure of the current distribution model, and part of this is a function of attempting to broaden choice through the opportunities created by that system failure. In California for example, we have three major distributors; one of whom controls close to 80% of all major brands. This has allowed smaller labels to take advantage of holes in the market that large producers can’t fulfill.

A great example of this would be the explosion of whiskey, gin, tequila, and rum brands. While vodka is still the most popular spirit, consumers these days are interested in well-balanced drinks that include ingredients that are unique with a range of flavor profiles. This has given rise to the bartender asking for more ingredients from producers that meet these taste requirements; whether it be bitters, unique syrups, or exotic herbs and spices, the bartender of today is a much different craftsperson from the bartender 20 years ago.

What is your biggest challenge?

I’d say one of the biggest challenges today is keeping up with trends and demand. It used to be even 10 years ago that one new restaurant a month had a cocktail program. Now it seems like there’s one a week! Bartenders have been really pushing new trends and keeping up with them has been part of the everyday challenge of the business.

It used to be that a well-made Old Fashioned was enough to keep people excited. Now you have to have infusions, house syrups and tinctures, large block ice, etc. to get people to come and see your bar.

I think this is great for the industry as a whole, but keeping up with all the changes can be exhausting sometimes. I find that it’s best to look at what changes are coming down the pipeline and to examine the trends as a whole rather than what’s hot and new this week.

How were you trained?

I was trained by some of the best in the business. Marcos Tello is a great teacher, and gave me a lot of the tools I still use when creating cocktails. Part of the reason his program is so successful is that he has templates and formulas for everything; you don’t need to guess at what you’re doing. This helps you to focus your energies on working within the formula, and not trying to reinvent it. The other training I’ve had comes from some of the best minds in the Los Angeles restaurant scene. Working with talented and determined people is always a joy; especially if it’s with the kitchen AND the bar. I think any bartender that refuses to work with their kitchen in menu creation is missing out on a huge chance to succeed.

Part of my training also comes from the guests themselves; as you become successful their expectations of you changes. This forces you to keep evaluating your decisions when creating a menu. I think that is one of the most important lessons for me in recent memory.

What advice do you have for a budding mixologist?

Read a lot. A LOT. There are so many books out there that have technique and tips from some of the top talent around; they are basically giving you their bar programs for the cost of the book. Don’t watch YouTube unless it’s for fun; most of the information out there is incorrect and won’t explain execution to you like a book will.

Another thing to learn about is the financials of a bar program. This is one of the points I can’t stress enough. If you can’t understand how the money is being spent, then you can’t be an effective asset to the business. Anyone can make an amazing cocktail with a $100 bottle of liquor and expensive produce. The trick is to make it taste expensive even though what’s in it is not.

What events can drinkers find you next?

I’m usually at events all over Los Angeles lately. I work with the MYM agency and they are great! I’m currently not behind any bar at the moment, but I’m always pouring something people enjoy. If you catch me at a bar, it’s usually in Pasadena. I live there and have great relationships with most of the restaurant staff around town. There are some great gems in Pasadena if you know where to look.

Contact Brady: bradyweise@gmail.com

Vintage Eve May 2013: The Wines of Calabria, Vino California 2013

May 23, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Below are my notes from Vino California’s Seminar One: “CALL TO CALABRIA, Discovering the Wines from the “Toe” of Italy’s Peninsula”, that I recently attended at the Skirball Cultural Center. I am sharing what I learned with readers as it fits the Wine 101 mantra: Learn by tasting, and if possible, have experts to lead you. Next week I will share the notes from a second seminar, “FROM LAGREIN TO NEGROAMARO, Exploring the Rare Varietals of Italy.”

Event Description

Led by Anthony Dias Blue, Editor-In-Chief of the Tasting Panel magazine, this seminar delves into the extraordinary wines hailing from the southern region of Calabria. Celebrating traditional Calabrian varietals such as Greco, Magliocco and Gaglioppo, this seminar will outline the unique features that make Calabria one of the premier wine regions of Italy.

Piero Selvaggio, owner of Valentino restaurant and Jonathan Mitchell, General Manager of Locanda del Lago restaurant, joined Blue on the panel.

Introduction

Blue began by saying that the people of Calabria normally drank all of their native Italian varieties and didn’t export their wine until recently. The area is on the tip of the boot in Italy and one of its first settlements.

The Greco grape, according to Blue, was one of the first brought into Italy by the Greeks. The Mediterranean diet also started in Calabria. The Calabrian wines match with Calabrian food – which is mostly seafood as three sides of the area is surrounded by water. It’s not an opulent Italian area, and they have been “eating nose to tail since the second century.”

One final note, Blue said all of the wines were inexpensive; the most expensive is maybe $35, most about $20.

Selvaggio said that these are wines for today, with medium bodies, a fresher style, and, in general, no further aging is needed. The mountain and sea region of the area produces simpler foods like goat and mutton, with seafood being “the blessing of the area.” A poor region, people often left it for other countries. There are no Calabrian restaurants in the U.S., according to Selvaggio, but they do influence the menus in our Italian restaurants. Of note, he said technically, the wines of Calabria will improve.

Tasting

Azienda Agricola Ceraudo Roberto Graysusi et. Arg. IGT val di Nieto 2011

Rich rose petals, Luxardo cherries, white pepper – a really rich nose. Acidic, cherry fruit and stems, palate drying, tingly finish. Mitchell suggested pairing with smoky meats. A favorite.

Statti Mantonico IGT 2010

A honey nose, ripe cantaloupe, deep color, mouth coating viscosity, pear/fruit salad. Selvaggio suggested this wine to pair with a light seafood pasta.

Azienda Agricola Biologica Santa Venere White Ciro DOC 2012

A steely, mineral, fresh cut grapefruit nose. Acidic and fruit forward with burst of yellow peach and lime. Selvaggio said this was indicative of the food and wine pairing found in the region, and it lends itself to a seafood Carpaccio, maybe with the addition of olives and capers. I was pleased with this one.

Le Moire SRL Mute DOC Savuto 2011

Obscure grapes were used in this wine per Blue. Dusty dark blue fruit on the nose. Astringent, dry, green pepper, dry/dark plums, palate drying finish. I wanted more fruit on the palate. Selvaggio thought it could stand up to pork or pasta with a good ragu sauce, due to tannins. Mitchell noted that the grape had a thick skin but the wine was not aggressively tannic. Blue thought it was charming. Everyone wanted cheese to pair it with.

Casa Vincola Crisera SRL Nerone di Calabria IGT 2008

Nice fruit-forward nose, plum, blackberry, somewhat candied. On the mouth it was tart, dark chocolate, cigar. Selvaggio thought that other than a robust fish, this would go well with Calabrian boiled meats – called bollito. Blue liked that the length goes on an on. Mitchell thought it would pair well with items from his restaurant menu.

Vintripodi Scilla IGT 2010

This wine is a three-grape blend. Brown edge, stewed mushrooms, mint, and plums on the nose. Dark cherry skins, astringent, blackish tannins. (There are 100 plus grape varietals in Calabria per Selvaggio.)

Cantine Viola Moscato Passito IGT Calabria 2010

Sugared apricots, nut fruit, honeysuckle, French toast and syrup. Honey coating, pears and peach in vanilla bean ice cream. (This was a rare wine per Blue.)

Perlis Picks: 2nd annual Masters of Taste

May 20, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Unlike some sports, such as baseball, somewhat inclement weather does not keep football players off the field. This is as true at the Pasadena Rose Bowl as it is anywhere else.

And like football players, attendees of the 2^nd annual Masters of Taste did not let a little rain keep them off the Rose Bowl field.

With once again all proceeds [expected to be over half a million dollars] raised by the event going to benefit Union Station Homeless Services, a wide variety of Food, Beverage and Sweets Masters were on hand to satisfy the intrepid attendees who braved the overcast skies for a great cause.

Eve has already shared her reporting of the event here so I won’t fill up this article with a list of participants.

While I wandered the event, my wonderful wife Karen kept showing up with some great food to keep me going. Here are her comments about the food…

Beef Tataki from Alexander’s Steakhouse of Pasadena: One of Michael’s favorites

Pork Belly Ramen by Ramen Tatsunoya: Extremely satisfying.

Handmade Mushroom Stuffed Pasta in Red Pepper Sauce by Celestino’s of Pasadena: I enjoyed this immensely. A great combination of flavors

Oxtail Dumplings from Bone Kettle: They melted in your mouth, absolutely delicious.

Hache LA: Angus burger sliders gave Michael and me the energy to make it around the Rose Bowl.

Spire Works of Eagle Rock and Westwood: Beef rice bowls were scrumptious.

Mama Lion: Uni appetizers were amazing.

Momed: Lamb shwarama sandwiches were extremely flavorful.

And here are a few standouts for me in the wine and beer category…

Ascension Cellars – this Paso Robles based winery continues to shine. I focused on the new releases at their table – the 2016 Siren Rose was very tasty; the 2015 Silver Blanc blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, Chardonnay and Viognier was unusual and delicious. The 2014 Mayhem Syrah [with a little Petit Verdot and also a small amount of Roussanne – instead of the traditional Viognier] was outstanding.

tercero wines – okay, I did not actually taste Larry Schaffer’s wines this time. He was pouring in the section for sponsors only. I did reach over and shake his hand and he was going to sneak me some wine over the fence when he was finished pouring for the sponsor who had come over to his table – you know, for reporting purposes. But, someone [and you know who you are] told me that there was also a tercero booth in the main area. So, I left in search of that booth, but I had been given misinformation. I do taste Larry’s wine often [actually very recently] and I can tell you they are worth seeking out.

Iron Triangle Brewing Co. – located in the growing and trendy Los Angeles arts district. The Dark Ale is well worth a trip to their taproom.

San Fernando Brewing Co. – loved the red ale. For our Santa Clarita Valley readers, this is an especially short trip to the taproom. You should definitely check them out.

As I had mentioned, now that we are actually experiencing some weather in Southern California, there was a threat of rain that afternoon. The cloud cover kept things cool and when there was one cloudburst while we were in attendance, it actually served to make things more fun, seeming to bring people closer together.

If you were there, what did you do when the rain started?

For us, we just happened to be visiting our friends at Golden Star Vineyards, Lee, Helen and Heather Williams. And when the sky opened up briefly, we just joined them under their tent and took advantage of the opportunity to taste more of their wines. Really loved their Chardonnay, the Viognier [in a blue bottle, no less] and the rose of Tempranillo. A real treat was a barrel sample of 2015 Syrah – aged in 100% new American oak, I was concerned that the oak might overpower the wine, but the fruit shone through. And their signature Purple Haze zinfandel-based red blend is always a favorite and was a great way to wrap up our day as well.

See you next year, rain or shine!

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.