Vintage Eve Circa March 2013: A Special Meeting with Santa Barbara, Paso Robles and Napa Valley Producers

March 28, 2017 by evebushman

A couple of weeks ago I received a special invite, from LearnAboutWine.com founder Ian Blackburn: “Tastemakers, Sommelier and Press, please accept my invitation to a special press gathering for the STARS of California Wine.” And that was enough for me to send off my rsvp right away.

I knew from a previous luncheon that the meeting – very intimate with a little over a dozen of us in attendance – would be stellar, the restaurant would be remarkable and the wine, presented by a winery representative or owner, chosen with care.

This time we met at a penthouse private room in the TAKAMI Restaurant, in downtown Los Angeles. Our wine representatives included Larry Schaffer, winemaker and owner of Tercero Wines; Timothy Carl, the managing director of Knights Bridge Winery; and Michael Young, the sales and marketing director of L’Aventure Wine.

I had just visited Larry at his Los Olivos Tasting room last month. The two wines he presented at our luncheon, 2011 Viognier and 2009 Grenache, I covered in my notes, as well as information on Tercero. You can read that here: http://westranchbeacon.com/2013/03/eves-wine-101-tasting-with-winemakers-in-the-santa-barbara/

On this occasion, however, I enjoyed Larry’s wines with three Robatas: Angus New York, Chicken Negima, Chilean Sea Bass; and then a selection of sushi rolls. For me, I prefer to make tasting notes sans food. But, in real life, this is how we do it – and it was very enjoyable to sit back and just enjoy as my tasting notes had already been done. The rest of the guests, some new to Larry’s wines, remarked that they really enjoyed them and what he has accomplished with Rhone varietals.

When Timothy Carl introduced Knights Bridge he explained that his family has ten generations of grape growing experience. They only produce Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon in their vineyards about five miles Northwest of Calistoga.

Almost everyone immediately became a fan of the Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc. My notes mention balanced acidity and minerality. Carl remarked that they “squeeze the fruit to get the right Ph” and by doing that you “may lose some juice potential…but you get the aromatics, mouth feel and fruit components like orange blossom.”

The stand out wine for me was Carl’s 2008 Knights Bridge Pont Chevalier Cabernet Sauvignon filled with blackberry, lavender, cassis, and minerality in perfect balance.

Then Michael Young introduced his L’Aventure “meat and potato” wines to pair with a Grilled Angus drenched in a Black Truffle Sauce…and potatoes. The 2010 Optimus was 55% Syrah, 27% Cab and 18% Petit Verdot. I thought it was a fruit bomb with plenty of spice on the back palate, bold and tannic, a great wine. Young followed it up with the 2010 Estate Cuvee that was a blend of 42% Syrah, 42% Cab and 16% Petit Verdot. Only slightly softer than the Optimus, another fabulous wine.

As we chatted it up, huge dessert platters arrived, bottles were offered to “revisit”, business cards were passed around…and then our hosts had to rush off for their second appointment of the day because after the luncheon was a press tasting event, to be followed later in the evening with a public tasting. I had to skedaddle as well, but this was the wine list others were to enjoy all evening on the rooftop:

2013 Participants:

D’Anbino – Paso Robles

Knights Bridge – Sonoma

Hammersky – Paso Robles

Beekeeper – Sonoma

Chateau Margene – Paso Robles

Tudor – Santa Lucia

Hope Family – Paso Robles

Zaca Mesa – Santa Barbara

Adelaida – Paso Robles

Tercero – Santa Barbara

L’Aventure – Paso Robles

Stanger – Paso Robles

Dubost – Paso Robles

Robert Murray – Paso Robles

Pipestone – Paso Robles

Kiamie – Paso Robles

Edmond August – Paso Robles

Levigne – Paso Robles

Sculpterra – Paso Robles

Frank Family – Napa Valley

Calcareous – Paso Robles

Hoyt Family – Paso Robles & Malibu

Shai – Santa Barbara

Eden Canyon – Paso Robles

Rocca – Napa Valley

Cakebread – Napa Valley

Turiya – Santa Barbara
Snowden – Napa Valley

Peju – Napa Valley

and many more to come….

Vintage Eve Circa Feb 2013: Mosel Riesling MASTER Class

March 7, 2017 by evebushman

The Invitation
A very special and rare lecture and tasting with Raimund Prüm, owner and winemaker at the SA PRUM estate in Germany’s Mosel Valley. SA PRUM ranks among the region’s top producers of high quality Riesling.

Come join us to learn about the history, geography, style and characteristics of Mosel Riesling. We will taste a special selection of classic wines during the class and a different selection at the lunch/tasting to follow.

Raimund Prüm, owner and winemaker of S.A. Prum

Ian Blackburn, our host from www.LearnAboutWine.com, introduced Raimund Prüm by stating that Prüm’s Rieslings were not “sweet wines” in fact when Blackburn had visited “the Mosel” he found that white asparagus was in season and was one of many foods that he was surprised that paired so well with Prüm’s wines.

“Forget everything,” began Prüm, “that you ever learned about Rieslings. Think of this as an outstanding wine grape – and we are going to take you by the hand and down to our cellar to show you what is going on there.”

Prüm’s family dates back to 1156 in the Mosel Valley, 90 minutes from Frankfurt, and Raimund Prüm made his first vintage on Christmas Eve in 1970 – an Eiswein (Ice Wine). By 1971, after his father passed away, Prüm found himself making wine full time. Forty years later Prüm has produced over a million bottles of wine from his 28,000 acres.

Prüm, with the help of a slide show, explained the terroir of the Mosel: Steep hillsides – the highest elevations in all of Germany at 900 feet – and the grey and red slate that can be found layered in the mineral-rich soil.

A notable Sundial appeared on one of the slides, the first one was circa 1842, which marked where the best Rieslings, his Rieslings, were grown. Now that sundial has been duplicated in other vineyards, denoting them as the finest.

The Tasting:
1. Wehlener Sonnenuhr Erste Lage* “Old Vines Grosse Gewachs Dry Riesling 2004

The palest of the line up with lemon, green apple, citrus, very smooth and balanced. The term “Erst Lage” on a label is their version of a “Grand Cru”.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Erste Lage “Old Vines Grosse Gewachs Dry Riesling 2006

Honeysuckle, jasmine, sharper lemony taste, grass, slightly acidic, long finish.

Graacher Dompropst Grosse Gewachs Riesling 2007

Honeyed-grapefruit, white pepper, dried apricot, pear, a tingling finish and not what I considered sweet. An early favorite for me.

Urziger Wurzgarten Kabinett Riesling 2009

Green hay, a trail mix filled with flavorful dried fruit, tangerine, round and coating on the tongue.

Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese Riesling 2010

Vanilla, peach, like a 50-50 ice cream bar: orange sherbet wrapped around creamy vanilla ice cream, another interesting favorite.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Riesling 2009

Candied ginger, pineapple, ripe persimmon and balanced with some spice on the back palate.

Graacher Himmelreich Eiswein 2004

Spice, dried apple slices, golden raisin, tangy edge.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr TBA 2005 *extremely limited and rare

Deep burnt orange in color, and from inches away I could smell orange rind and spice rack, getting closer I detected a silkiness, honey and those golden raisins again.

Conclusion

Balanced. It was the one word that kept coming up as I sniffed, swirled and sampled the Rieslings. And, apparently, it was on Prüm’s tongue as well. He mentioned all kinds of pairings from cheeses, salads, seafood, pork dishes, filet mignon to Thai food. “These are food friendly wines. Stop thinking red wine and red meat.” In conclusion Prüm said, “Someone once commented to me that my wines have too much balance. Is there such a thing?” No, thank Bacchus, there is not.

About SA PRUM
Family-owned S.A. Prüm, founded in 1911 by Sebastian Alois Prüm, has been in the hands of Raimund Prüm, head winemaker and Sebastian’s grandson, since 1971. Under Raimund’s leadership the property has earned a reputation as one of the most successful wineries in Germany’s celebrated Mosel wine region.

The Prüm family has a rich and ancient history in the mid-Mosel. Here they have owned vineyards in the towns of Bernkastel, Graach, Wehlen and Zeltingen since 1156. Today, the estate comprises 40 acres of vineyards planted principally with Riesling. Over 15 acres of S.A. Prüm’s holdings are located within the famed Wehlener Sonnenuhr (“sundial of Wehlen”) domain.

Named for the historic sundial painted on an outcrop of slate by a Prüm ancestor back in 1842, the incredibly steep Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard is a renowned source of what is arguably Germany’s finest Riesling. Here vines average 80 years and older and benefit from plentiful sunshine – a critical factor in the world’s northernmost wine-producing country. The soil is comprised of layers of finely decomposed, mineral-rich blue slate.

Underneath, deep-lying aquifers provide the vines with adequate water during dry periods.

S.A.Prüm is a founding member of the Association of German Premium Wineries (VDP), a consortium of Germany’s top producers. Raimund Prüm employs organic fertilization, hand-picking and strict yield control to ensure the utmost quality. Day-to-day operations at S.A. Prüm are a family effort. Daughter Saskia Andrea (another S.A. Prüm) is integrally involved and after working at top wineries around the world, is poised to take over the reins from her father. Jennifer, Raimund’s second daughter, is involved in the administrative side of the business.

www.sapruem.com or www.PalmBay.com

A Week, or More, in Wine Tastings

August 5, 2016 by evebushman

Had a few fun wines to review so sharing a virtual taste with readers this week:

From Bisol Crede Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G (SRP: $25) is a brilliantly yellow-green colored Prosecco with a fruity bouquet, flavors of green apples and pears and balanced acidity. Crede hails from the steep south-facing hills of Bisol’s vineyards in Valdobbiadene, one of the most prestigious zones for producing Prosecco. The wine is produced from the Glera grape variety together with Pinot Bianco and Verdiso grapes.

Eve’s Tasting Notes, Aromas and Flavors separated by ;

The color of very pale lemon juice with racing tiny bubbles. Peach cobbler, lemongrass, green apple and a hint of candied ginger; green apple again on the palate, Italian lemon ice with a nice palate cleansing acidity. 88 Eve pts.

From Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve (SRP: $65) 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier – Deep golden hue, showered with long lasting bubbles. Aromas of freshly baked brioche and the richness of roasted coffee beans linger while the palate offers a touch of praline and notes of amber and vanilla. The Brut Réserve is blended with 40% reserve wines from the Charles Heidsieck cellar, which are an average of 10 years old, adding further depth and complexity.

Eve’s Tasting Notes, Aromas and Flavors separated by ;

Aromas popped right out with the popping of the cork, even before it hit the glass: fresh cut mango, buttered toast, vanilla bean, mild citrus notes; yummy fleshy tropical fruits, white cheddar, lemon zest, medium acidity that lingers on the finish. 91 Eve pts.

From Masciarelli’s Villa Gemma Bianco IGT (SRP $18): Fruity and flowery with hints of apple, jasmine, and white flower, this refreshing white wine is composed of 80% Trebbiano, 15% Cococcolia, and 5% Chardonnay. With a pale straw yellow color and fine aroma, the Villa Gemma Bianco pairs well with light, flavorful dishes like seafood, cheese, and vegetables — it’s the ideal summer white wine.

Eve’s Tasting Notes, Aromas and Flavors separated by ;

Color of fine 24k gold, clean and clear in appearance. Orange, mown grass, lemon zest, unsalted butter, talcum powder, sandalwood incense, and…extra virgin olive oil all on the nose; orange and lemon carry over from the aroma to the palate, followed by grapefruit, tart green apple and lime. 89 Eve pts.

From Grechetto Colli Martani, Montefalco Bianco DOC (SRP approx. $20): Whites made from Grechetto are fresh and intense initially, but have a savory finish on the palate. Trebbiano is full-bodied and has notes of fruit and white flowers. These varieties of grapes are used in whites such as Grechetto DOC Colli Martani, Montefalco Bianco DOC, and Spoleto DOC.

Eve’s Tasting Notes, Aromas and Flavors separated by ;

Pale white florals, green bell pepper, wet concrete, lemon-lime; Lime, lemon, grapefruit and tart orange, 86 Eve pts.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

A Funny Story About Prosecco Before A Taste of Bisol

September 18, 2015 by evebushman

The recent boom in sales of Prosecco is a story that continues to generate great interest among both the trade and consumers in the US. As is often the case when demand for a product grows, so does supply and choice. With many Proseccos on the market, deciphering quality can be a challenge, and is often touted as an inexpensive, easy-drinking alternative to Champagne. However, there are producers in Italy’s Veneto region producing high-end Prosecco with many characteristics that distinguish it from other brands, and Bisol (www.bisol.it) is one of the winemakers who is spearheading this constant pursuit of quality.

Before I get into tasting notes on the two Proseccos sent by Bisol for review I give you:

A Funny Story About Prosecco

I became a fan of Prosecco due to its price tag, I admit it, but spending a little more for a good bottle is also fine with me. I love its crispness and easy pairings with seafood, cheese and not-too-spicy fare. Not to mention how perfect it lends itself to the Italian Aperol Spritz cocktail (recipe here.)

Somehow my love of Prosecco transferred to my mother. She’s had my Spritzer, and my Prosecco, many times. When her birthday came up this year she asked for six bottles so she could bring one a month, for six months, to her book club meetings. But then, an unexpected crisis occurred: My brother came to visit.

On Day One of my brother’s visit my mother generously shared a bottle from her Prosecco stash. She recorked the bottle at the end of the evening to finish the next night. When I visited on Day Three of my brother’s seven day visit he planned on opening another bottle.

My mother was stunned. This was her book club Prosecco. I offered to take my brother to one of my favorite wine stores to pick out something else. He refused. I prefer to think he was teasing my mother; she thinks he was aiming to get her into an early grave.

While my brother and I did duck out – for lunch without wine – my mother announced that while we were gone she had taken the remaining 5 bottles to her neighbor to hold for her until my brother left. We were speechless.

I figured my mother’s neighbors thought my brother was some kind of alcoholic, and she would be bringing over her Nyquil next.

On Day Five when I visited again…I brought a bottle of Prosecco as the “Prosecco Wars” were still going on. After my brother’s visit ended my mother admitted to me that she had never removed her Prosecco from her house, she had hidden it under her bed.

The moral to this story: Everyone loves Prosecco.

Now, back to our scheduled tasting:

My Tasting Notes – Jeio Prosecco DOC – Aromas and flavors separate by ;

Perfumy, powdery, green apples, flowery; sweet apples, lemonade, white grape juice with robust bubbles. 91 Eve pts.

Then we look at Their Tasting Notes – Bisol’s varied product line also includes Jeio Prosecco DOC (SRP: $17), produced with grapes from the low-lying hills of the Veneto. This beautiful straw yellow Prosecco has a refined balance between acidity and minerality. The floral bouquet of apple, apricot and fresh meadow flowers compliments the fruity flavors and dry finish. Jeio’s fresh, youthful character pairs well with light food and canapés and is an ideal start to a meal or simply as an aperitif.

My Tasting Notes – Bisol ‘Crede’ Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG – Aromas and flavors separate by ;

Apricot, whipped cream cheese, talcum powder; pale lemon, orange, white pepper, limeade and concrete. 88 Eve pts.

Then we look at Their Tasting Notes – The result is the single-vineyard Bisol ‘Crede’ Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (SRP: $25) which is produced from the Glera grape varietal, together with Pinot Bianco and Verdiso grapes grown on the steep south-facing hills of Bisol’s vineyards in Valdobbiadene. With a brilliant yellow-green color and a fruity bouquet that is reflected in its flavor of green apples and pears with balanced acidity.

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Vintage Beacon Circa 12/2010: Dinner with Chris Phelps, Winemaker for Swanson Vineyards

September 1, 2015 by evebushman

Guests at Ca Del Sole restaurant passed our table and stopped to remark, “Are you having a wine tasting here? We figured with the three magnums on the table…” That what? We’d share? Oh no, I was going to take any extra wine home by employing the old trick of sticking that cork right back where it belonged, slipping it under my arm, getting it into the trunk of my car! They were Swanson magnums!

Okay, back to the dinner.

Winemaking

Napa winemaker, Chris Phelps, was in town for a two-day LearnAboutWine Cabernet event. But, lucky for me, Chris had a night in between the two days to share stories about himself and Swanson Vineyards. (Joining us for dinner was Sippity Sup’s Greg Henry and his friend Helen Melville.)

I had done a little homework on Chris before the evening. I knew that he had worked alongside, and was mentored by, the winemakers of Bordeaux (Christian Moueix and Jean-Claude Berrouet), and specifically, at the famed Petrus.

While on the Right Bank of Bordeaux, Chris learned that Merlot performed at its full potential only if grown under precisely the right conditions. The clay soil it thrives on at Swanson, for example, is critical: the Merlot grape likes the fact that clay meters water out slowly to the vine during the growing season. As Chris put it, “Merlot is a winemaker’s grape,” requiring less technical intervention if it is grown in the right place.

“When grown in clay Oakville soil, the wines have naturally good acidity, color and balance, exactly what we are seeking style-wise for our Oakville Merlot”, says Chris.

When Chris first arrived on the scene at Swanson the previous winemaker had been using only American Oak for Merlot. Chris shifted to half American and half French. This change, coupled with a custom, lighter toast, added more finesse and balance to the oak’s influence on the wines.

Chris is also very passionate about oak. He suggested that I visit a “cooperage” – a place where the barrels are made – to see how flavors such as vanilla, clove and spice emerge in the toasting process. (I can’t imagine pulling myself away from wine tasting the next time I’m in Napa, but he made this idea tempting.)

Swanson Vineyards

Swanson’s 90 Napa acres are attached to a true “family-owned winery,” Chris began. “An increasing number of wineries are owned by corporations.”

One of Swanson’s strengths is that it specializes in only 3 wines for the national – and international – market: Merlot, Pinot Grigio and Cabernet Sauvignon. Many wineries seem to lose their focus as they distribute a range of wines that is always expanding.

“Making white wines for the first time, I decided to make our Pinot Grigio more of an ode to Alsatian Pinot Gris,” Chris said. “We pick it early to lower the final alcohol content, aiming for about 13.5%. We then ferment the juice 100% in stainless tanks and barrels, instead of fermenting in neutral oak, which had been done in the past. We stir the wine on the lees until Christmas, and bottle in mid-February. We find that the wine retains its freshness and fruit much better with these three fundamental changes in our approach to Pinot Grigio winemaking.”

It was interesting that Chris decided to use screw caps for Pinot Grigio to avoid any cork taint at all in his wine, and to keep the wine fresh for at least 2 years in the bottle. He likes to say that, “the crisp break of the cap being opened tells me I should expect to experience a fresh, crisp wine.” I really liked that statement and thought it would read well on the bottle.

Chris also gave me a piece of information as to the cost of Napa wines. He said that the vines in many areas of Napa Valley have to be replanted every fifteen to twenty years due in large measure to leaf-roll virus. The cost for that replanting is definitely something to consider.

Alexis and Merlot

The Alexis Cabernet, a consistently highly rated wine by Wine Spectator magazine, is 90% Cabernet and 10% Merlot, with alcohol hovering around 14%, unfined and unfiltered.

We started with the 04, and I found it had pleasant black fruits in both the aroma and taste, very dry, with a lovely length. Chris obviously brought his Bordeaux style to Swanson with the 10% Merlot he blended into his Alexis Cabernet.

Next we sampled the 05 Alexis. Chris said that this one benefited from a long, cool vintage and, since 05 was a big year for quantity, they thinned more heavily. Chris found the wine “complex” and we agreed that it could compete with any outstanding Right Bank Bordeaux.

The final Alexis was an 06. I noted both anise and eucalyptus on the nose, a dry, tannic mouthfeel and asked Chris how long he would suggest we lay it down for. He thought that it could go 10-20 years, or 30 in a magnum.

The restaurant’s wine list included a 06 Merlot – that’s the one I took home – and I found it to have a lovely balance. Just like Chris.

Eve Wine 101: Sustainable or Organic Wines Choices

August 28, 2015 by evebushman

Do you select wine based on a winery’s choice in being sustainable or organic? Do you know what those terms even mean?

Lets start with some basic Definitions (from Wine Spectator’s Dr. Vinny)

These terms vary in the way they’re defined and regulated, but I’ll do my best to sort out the way they’re most typically used.

The U.S. government regulates use of the term “organic,” but “sustainable” and “biodynamic” have no legal definitions. So I’ll start with organic: there are two types of organic listings on wine bottles. Wines can be made from certified organically grown grapes, avoiding any synthetic additives, or, to take it a step further, “organic” wines are made from organically grown grapes, and are also made without any added sulfites (though naturally occurring sulfites will still be present).

Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that both take place without chemicals, but biodynamic farming incorporates ideas about a vineyard as an ecosystem, and also accounting for things such as astrological influences and lunar cycles. A biodynamic wine means that the grapes are farmed biodynamically, and that the winemaker did not make the wine with any common manipulations such as yeast additions or acidity adjustments. A wine “made from biodynamic grapes” means that a vintner used biodynamically grown grapes, but followed a less strict list of rules in winemaking.

Sustainability refers to a range of practices that are not only ecologically sound, but also economically viable and socially responsible. (Sustainable farmers may farm largely organically or biodynamically but have flexibility to choose what works best for their individual property; they may also focus on energy and water conservation, use of renewable resources and other issues.) Some third-party agencies offer sustainability certifications, and many regional industry associations are working on developing clearer standards.

If you’d like to know if a wine falls into any of these categories, check out the label. Here you’ll find a lot of clues—various trademarked symbols and logos are used, and if a winery is going to adhere to these practices, they’re likely to want you to know about it. You can also check out a winery’s website, which usually goes into details about how a wine was grown and made.

Okay, now back to me, and my own feelings to share with you at this point in your wine education. After reading the knowledgeable Dr. Vinny, do you feel compelled to seek out wines made via organic, biodynamic and/or sustainable winery practices? If so, I think you should.

I’ve tasted my fair share of wines made in many different ways. My personal opinion (and I know I may lose a few readers over this) is similar to how I feel reading a book. Does the information presented, in both fiction and non-fiction, further the story or not?

Taken a step further, and down a row of vines, if the wine tastes better because owls (in one winery case the owls had fine “condos” built for them to attract them to the property) killed a pest like gophers then that’s great. If the wine’s price increased because of the winery practices, that’s okay with me too, within reason. But if the wine takes a page from my book instead of adding to it, I’d skip the wine in the future.

To be more succinct: I’m ruled by palate and not winery practices. You have to do your own tasting/testing to make your own decision. And, if you find an organic/biodynamic/sustainable wine that tastes better because of the winery practices? Let me know about it!

(Note: a word about sulfite preservatives. There are two schools of thought: They cause headaches and they don’t cause headaches. One wine educator explained that if the sufferer also suffers headaches after eating dried fruit with sulfites then it’s the sulfites. More often, and I tend to agree, it’s dehydration that causes the headache. My rule of thumb is to consume one glass of water for every glass of wine.)

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Meeting Winemaker Sharon Kazan Harris, a Very RareCat

May 8, 2015 by evebushman

I just had a very nice tasting with a female vintner new to me – and I bet new to most for making wine here and in Bordeaux? Really? Read on as all will be revealed after the tasting.

Tasting RareCat

2014 Grenache Rose “Brigitte”, California (East Napa Valley, sourced near Davis) $24

With a touch (8%) of Viognier, this Provençale style rose delivers aromatics that are bursting, a beautiful color, and what Harris called “Liquid happiness…like summer…smell of wet tar is a summer thing.” The Viognier adds minerality, and is akin to “an elegant lady that works out at the gym with a small bicep you can’t quite see but know it’s there.” Small production (not quite sold out) of 170 cases, but will do closer to 600 cases next year.

Champagne colored, clear.

Aromas reminiscent of yellow peaches, pink grapefruit, steely, sweet cream; flavors of grapefruit, lemon, tart, medium acid, nice long finish.

2011 Chardonnay, Charles Heintz, Russian River Valley $65

Fermented in barrel for up to 22 months, malolactic fermentation due to 2011 being a highly acidic year.

The color of golden yellow, clear.

On the nose you may find freshly churned butter, lemon grass, yellow delicious apples, a hint of anise; while on the palate you will find the perfect balance of fruit and acid, lingering oak through the finish, Meyer lemon and white pepper.

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga, Napa Valley (Blended with a small percentage of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) $100

Planted in 2000 on a steep hillside vineyard (33 plus degree slope) in Napa County, Calistoga, southern facing, no direct afternoon sun, small fruit clusters, with cool wind blowing out heat in the vineyard every afternoon.

Dark blackberry colored, thin darker border, opaque.

A beautiful bowl of black fruit, blueberry, plum, black pepper, black licorice, dark chocolate, wet bark will greet you on the nose; while bold dark fruits, pepper is there but softened, chewy chocolate, and a dazzling long finish on the palate.

More

Harris’ goal is to make small production wines, and has been ever since her early days of education in Bordeaux.

A rare beauty, a woman, is sometimes referred to as a rare cat, Harris explained. And a great wine is made unique as “they don’t reveal themselves all at once.” Harris believes that part of enjoying wine is the context – who you drink it with and when.

These things guide Harris: She wants to make beautiful wines. She doesn’t want to make a lot of wines; she wants to stay small to keep the connections valid. She’s in the business of creating great experiences, so when you visit her property and home she makes her guests feel connected and special.

Why make it a business tool? Wine brings people together and keeps them together. Harris plans on keeping her female-run business a profitable and responsible one; to that aim she wants to sell direct.

Harris is the only American woman making a wine in Bordeaux and is going through the process of making an estate-specific St. Emilion wine right now. And the Grand Cru vineyard is 200 yards from her home there. She can limit a few tiers of the usual distribution process, so Harris plans to import her wine for less cost. Produced by Rarecat for Rarecat, instead of selling her Bordeaux for up to $100 she will sell direct to her California customers for $48. She is just waiting for the federal license to come through. She is already working on the label, and it could just be another 4 to 5 months before we see the fruits of her labor.

Additional to all of this Harris spends much of her time teaching. One class, “Don’t give up the wine list” was developed as she believes that women can be cheap with themselves as we don’t spend on ourselves. Harris uses wine as a tool, helping women in business.

Harris feels “an obligation to be a great mentor to other women…now that the doors have been opened to us by other women before us.” Causes for women and children are “nearer and dearer” to Sharon’s heart.

RARECAT WINES: Backgrounder

Coordinates:

P.O.B. 801, Rutherford CA 94573

Phone: 707-968-5031, 650-464-9408

Fax: 707-286-5503

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RarecatWines

Website: http://www.rarecatwines.com/

E-mail: info@rarecatwines.com or sharon@rarecatwines.com

Tastings available only by appointment at the office in St. Helena

Visits to Chateau des Amis in St. Emilion, France, www.winevillas.com

Founder/proprietor: Sharon Kazan Harris

Sharon’s love of wine started when she spent her junior year of college abroad, at the Université de Bordeaux. She was taken under the wing of the wife of the University’s president, which is how she found herself, at age 20, being taken on a personal tour of Chateau Haut Brion, producer of one of the greatest wines in the world. The tour was led by the legendary Monsieur Delmas, who kindly let her taste the renowned 1982 vintage out of the barrel, followed by the 1966. After graduating from college Sharon returned to Bordeaux and lived with the Boutarics, the famed cheese mongers at La Marche des Grands Hommes, while she worked at The St. James, a two-star restaurant, under Jean-Marie Amat, the owner and chef. That moment changed her life and sealed her interest in wine and the Bordeaux region itself. Some years later, after a career in publishing and technology, with a young family in tow, Sharon applied and was accepted to the prestigious DUAD program (the Diplome Universitaire d’Aptitude a la Degustation des Vins) offered through the Université de Bordeaux’s Oenology department. The DUAD is an intensive yearlong program that takes four years of oenology and condenses it into one compacted year: it is a technical oenology degree program taught in French. Several years later Sharon returned to the States and moved to Napa Valley. Today Sharon is one of only two women working as vintners in the Napa Valley who hold the DUAD degree. Sharon keeps her links to Bordeaux very present, maintaining a second home in Bordeaux today. As she works on the RARECAT wines, her passion extends to empowering women through wine and supporting women in the wine industry. Several years ago she formed an unusual ‘trade’ group called Wine Entre Femmes, comprised of female vintners from Napa and Bordeaux. In 2012 she established A Woman’s Palate, a company that celebrates wines by women for women. “I am lucky; I am living my passion,” Sharon says.

Visit Experience: By appointment Sharon welcomes guests into her home, where winery business takes place in a rehab’d warehouse, reached through a stylish courtyard ringed with olive trees and a firepit. The warehouse, with its enormous high ceiling and roll-up garage-style industrial chic wall-door, is an intriguing mix of family antiques (fifteenth century Spanish throne!), rare early California-era paintings, antiques and a 30’-long wooden farmhouse table. One façade of the warehouse features a graffiti art installation, painted on the spot during a happening-wine tasting in the fall of 2014 by local artist Alex Dunne, part of the What Is Beauty series (photos and more at http://www.rarecatwines.com/Story/What-is-Beauty-Art-Series ). It is in this unusual and eclectic setting with an urban modern chic vibe where Sharon shares her passion and wine knowledge.

Winemaker: Joel Aiken

Founded: With the release of the 2009 RARECAT Lionheart Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley

Current releases:

RARECAT Old Toll Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $100

RARECAT Chardonnay Russian River Charles Heintz 2011 $65 (2012 vintage will be released in May 2015)

Coming in summer 2015: RARECAT St. Emilion, $48

A Woman’s Palate: Sharon founded A Woman’s Palate in 2012 with businesswoman Susan Citron. A Woman’s Palate introduces women vintners and their stories, shares their wines with a larger audience of women and offers programs educating women about wine, including Don’t Give Up The Wine List. Vintner members are some of the most well-known and respected women winemakers in Napa and Sonoma. One recent event was a Boot Camp event in May, which included private events at Spottswoode, St. Supery and Domaine Carneros as well as a cheese class with Lassa Skinner, co-founder of Culture and a Napa cheesemonger.

More at www.awomanspalate.com, www.facebook.com/awomanspalate, www.pinterest.com/awomanspalate and @awomanspalate.

Villa in St. Emilion:

Chateau des Amis is owned by Sharon Kazan Harris. Arriving in Bordeaux in 1983, Sharon studied at the Université de Bordeaux, worked for a two-star Restaurant in Bouliac and has lived in St. Emilion off and on over the years. Sharon loves to share her passion for this beautiful region and offers this villa as a home base for visitors. St. Emilion is UNESCO’s first world heritage site and one of France’s most bucolic villages. Surrounded by hillside vineyards and world-class wine chateaux, the village of St. Emilion is filled with restaurants, shops and historic buildings and shops. Chateau des Amis is the only luxury villa for rent in the village of St. Emilion. Located just outside the village’s Roman wall, this 4 bedroom villa is strolling distance to all of the local landmarks. The villa combines old world charm with modern amenities. More at http://winevillas.com/.

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Toscana Restaurant Presents Winemaker Dinner with Joe Davis and Arcadian Winery

March 25, 2015 by evebushman

A Favorite from the Lompoc Ghetto, Arcadian will Feature Five Wines from the Collection to Pair with the Four Course Tuscan Dinner

WHO: Executive Chef Hugo Vasquez, Wine Director Emily Johnston of TOSCANA, and Winemaker Joe Davis, Arcadian Winery

WHAT: TOSCANA welcomes Joe Davis of Arcadia Winery, who will introduce wines from their exceptional winery in Lompoc, California. The four course Tuscan menu by Chef Hugo Vasquez will be paired with five wines from the collection.

Joe Davis began his winemaking career in the 1980s, opening his own brand in 1996. He has consistently made quality Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah from some of the most prestigious vineyards in the Central Coast. Particularly interesting is the ageability of his wines. He may be releasing 7 year old wines while many Central Coast producers are focusing on wines to be drunk in their youth. Greatly influenced by his role models in Burgundy (namely Domaine Dujac), Davis uses techniques such as stem inclusion and extended barrel aging to make his wines full structured and age worthy. Like a top negociant, Davis knows all the intricacies of the vineyards he uses and keeps detailed logs of each vintage he harvests. Look forward to the 2001 Gary’s Vineyard Syrah which Davis touts as the best wine he has ever made from Gary’s Vineyard.

Traditionally, Arcadian harvests fruit with more modest sugar levels and higher natural acidity than many of their fellow growers. The belief that Arcadian wines will continue to evolve in the bottle for years to come and that this will ultimately produce a more interesting wine is what drives the philosophy of these wines. “I admire Joe Davis’s willingness to take risks,” states Antonio Galloni in his 2013 Vinous Media reviews for Arcadian, continuing, “The intellectual desire to experiment and push the envelope is a quality many of the world’s greatest winemakers share.”

Chef Hugo Vasquez’s Dinner for Spring with Arcadian Wine Pairings

Canape

Cheese and Zucchini Souffle

Ham and Cheese Tartlets

Spinach and Ricotta Tartlets

Arcadian Chardonnay ‘Sleepy Hollow Vineyard’ 2008

Antipasto

Bruschetta with Porchetta and Red and Yellow Bell Peppers

Arcadian Pinot Noir ‘Sleepy Hollow Vineyard’ 2005

Primo Piatto

Risotto with Grilled Cuttlefish, Cherry Tomatoes and Artichokes

Arcadian Pinot Noir ‘Gold Coast Vineyard’ 2008

Secondo Piatto

Grilled Lamb Chops with Herbs and Seasonal Vegetables

Arcadian Syrah ‘Westerly Vineyard’ 2007

Dolce

Assortment of Italian Cheeses and Fresh Fruit

Arcadian Syrah ‘Gary’s Vineyard’ 2001

Wine Director Emily Johnston: photo courtesy of Rob Stark Photography

price $130 per guest all-inclusive, tickets may be purchased by calling Toscana: 310.820.2448

Menu by Executive Chef Hugo Vasquez, Wine Pairings by Sommelier Emily Johnston

WHEN: ONE NIGHT ONLY Tuesday, April 7, 2015, 7:00 p.m.

$130 per guest, inclusive of menu, wines, taxes and gratuities; seating is limited

Winemaker Joe Davis will be present to meet guests and discuss the wines

Reservations may be made by phone with credit card pre-payment

WHERE:

TOSCANA

11633 San Vicente Boulevard, #100

Los Angeles, CA 90049

310.820.2448

ABOUT TOSCANA:

TOSCANA quietly opened in April of 1989 by first time restaurateurs Mike and Kathie Gordon who dreamed of recreating the simple, delicious food and warm, inviting ambiance they found in Italy. TOSCANA’s success exceeded all expectations. The restaurant was quickly discovered and populated by guests who became regulars, dining on exquisite and authentic Italian fare a few times a week for lunch and dinner. Twenty five years later, TOSCANA continues to thrive.

Become a Fan of Toscana on Facebook:

www.facebook.com/ToscanaBrentwood

Follow Toscana on Twitter: @Toscana1989

www.Toscanabrentwood.com

Perlis Picks: Law Estate Wines

January 10, 2015 by evebushman

Law Estate Wines

www.lawestatewines.com

I give all props to my wife Karen on introducing me to Law Estate Wines

We were attending the Ojai Wine Festival in 2013 and Karen had just come back from the VIP Tent. “You have to try Law”, she said. “They’re wines are really good.” She was right. They were definitely our [well her] find of the festival that day.

We visited general manager Oliver Esperham sometime after that at the still-under-construction winery in Paso Robles and tasted through the whole lineup of the winery’s first 2010 vintage releases. We found extremely high quality across the board.

The winery and tasting room are now open and we paid Law a return visit recently. Everything is state of the art, the winery itself is practically a work of art, and rockstar winemaker Scott Hawley and his team make the wines. Clearly, no expense has been spared by owners Don and Susie Law. And while I have reported on Law before, my expectations that with all the resources that were committed to this effort, the results had to be good.

But I didn’t expect this…

When we sat down and tasted the 2011 releases at the winery, I realized these wines were not just really good. I am always loathe to toss out superlatives like “best ever” or to try to assign numerical scores to a subjective topic. I can, however, say that without question that I cannot recall tasting another winery’s lineup where the wines were better than these.

We tasted the following from the 2011 vintage:

Beguiling – 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah

Sagacious – 38% Syrah, 34% Mourvedre, 28% Grenache

Intrepid – 100% Syrah

Audacious – 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Syrah, 18% Grenache, 8% Petite Sirah

As I said, the last time I tasted the Law wines was the 2010 vintage. At the time, I compared them [favorably] to some of the very well made Australian Syrah and Rhone blends that I have had. I would say the same of the 2011s, except more so. The fruit was consistently incredible, but to me the acidity has been really nailed on these, so that after every taste your palate just cried out for more.

Law also made a fifth wine from the 2011 vintage. Called The Nines, it is 100% Grenache from two blocks of the Law Vineyard, block 9A and 9B. We did not get to taste this wine, unfortunately. It is the first of their black label series, reserved for a select few top of the line bottlings. I’m really curious how much better the wine could actually be compared to their outstanding “standard” lineup, and I am hoping one day soon to rectify that.

As if as this wasn’t enough, we then visited the barrel room to taste some of the 2013 wines in barrel. [2012 wines are already resting in bottles.] Tasting through the Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, it is clear that the high quality we experienced tasting the 2011s was going to continue. And with additional varietals being planted in the Law vineyard [Tempranillo, Clairette Blanche, Marsanne, Roussanne as well as a field blend of Syrah, Viognier and Roussanne] it is clear that Law Estate Wines has a great future ahead of it.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Ravenswood

November 29, 2014 by evebushman

Ravenswood

http://www.ravenswoodwinery.com/

Long ago, before the internet took over all our lives, I became a fan of Zinfandel. At the time, it was always a good bet to look for the three Rs of Zinfandel. What? You say there’s no R in Zinfandel? You’re not looking closely enough. If you bring your face closer to the monitor, and squint a little, you should be able to see Ridge, Rosenblum and last, but definitely not least, Ravenswood. I always knew that these wineries would provide me with high quality and interesting wines to satiate, at least temporarily, my Zinfandel loving palate.

JOEL PETERSON

As my obsession with wine grew, and with the internet making research so much easier, my search for new up and coming wineries overshadowed my interest in the older wineries that had already achieved great success. All that kind of came full circle a few months ago when my wife Karen and I had the opportunity to attend the Historic Vineyard Society Vineyard Tour and Dinner. Not only were we hanging out with the likes of Mike Officer of Carlisle, Tegan Passalacqua of Turley and Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock, but Joel Peterson, Morgan’s father and backer of Bedrock as well as being the founder of Ravenswood, was not only there but the tour guide on our bus. I took advantage of pauses between his tour guide duties to ask him a lot of questions about the old days as well as what was going on at Ravenswood currently.

Fast forward to our current trip to Sonoma, and I knew I wanted to meet up with Joel again if at all possible. Fortunately his schedule permitted – you never know, as Joel had just gotten back from a trip to Canada. [It turns out Ravenswood Zinfandel is very popular there, as well as in Kuala Lumpur and the Nordics. Who knew?]

Ravenswood makes three different “levels” of wines, plus their mixed black blend known as Icon. We skipped the workhorse Vintners Blend series and sampled heavily from the County Series and Single Vineyard Designates, finishing with the Icon:

2012 Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel

2011 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel

2012 Dickerson Zinfandel

2012 Belloni Zinfandel

2012 Bedrock Zinfandel

2012 Barricia Zinfandel

2012 Old Hill Zinfandel

2012 Icon

Here are some paraphrased comments in italics from Joel while we sampled the wines we were tasting:

Winemaking is stopping the spoilage process somewhere along the way.

Wines have their “alcohol sweet spots” and the key is balancing between that alcohol level and acid.

Ravenswood is probably the largest fermenter using native yeasts.

Ravenswood was one of the first wineries to label wine as coming from Lodi.

The Dickerson Vineyard Zinfandel gets its distinctive bright flavors due to the vineyard being infected with leafroll virus. Sadly, the Ruby Cabernet that was also planted in this vineyard was too far gone with this virus and had to be pulled out. [MP: This vineyard is special to me, for reasons you might be tired of reading about. If you are so inclined, I explained it here: http://evewine101.com/2014/07/05/perlis-picks-historic-vineyard-society-tour-dinner-part-2/]

The Belloni Zinfandel is 78% Zinfandel, the rest being various mixed blacks such as Alicante Bouschet. It is typically the last vineyard picked each year.

The 119 acre Bedrock Vineyard was planted in the mid 1850s and went through a few different owners before being acquired by Joel Peterson and son Morgan-Twain Peterson in 2004. As with many of the old vineyards, this is a mixture of other black grapes, although primarily Zinfandel. [MP: I was especially interested in this as I am a big fan of the Zinfandel that comes from this vineyard, both under the Bedrock winery label as well as other producers, most recently Limerick Lane.]

The Barricia Vineyard is adjacent to the Bedrock, very similar, slightly different grape mix.

Old Hill Vineyard was planted in 1862. This brought up the topic of who planted Zinfandel in California. While the Italians are often credited, New Englanders brought cuttings from the East Coast as they moved West.

The Icon is a mixed black blend from five different vineyards.

The wines were universally outstanding. It was interesting to compare the nuances of the various vineyards, something you can really only do with a side-by-side tasting. As an added treat, knowing my affinity for the Dickerson Vineyard, Joel brought out a bottle of the 1987. While not all Zinfandels [in fact, not all wines] can age, this Zin had, very gracefully. Some of the bright fruit had faded, but there was still plenty in evidence along with the added complexity that the integration of aging brings.

Joel was pretty much destined to get into the wine industry, even though he started his career as a medical researcher. But then, both his parents were chemists, yet had deep interests in food and wine. Joel’s mother helped edit Alice Waters’ first cookbook and his father started the San Francisco Wine Wine Sampling Club (now San Francisco Vintners Club). So, when Joel and Joe Swan had a fateful conversation at the Vintners Club, he already had a lot of wine knowledge and it was no surprise that he ended up working with Swan for four years before starting Ravenswood in 1976.

When I met Joel earlier this year, I told him I considered him to be the “Godfather of Zinfandel”. He just smiled. I should have known that I was not the first one to call him that. But, the title fits, as Joel is greatly responsible for the current state and popularity of Zinfandel. And, I’m happy to report that I shouldn’t have been ignoring Ravenswood. The wines are great!