Eve Wine 101: Sustainable or Organic Wines Choices

August 28, 2015 by evebushman

Do you select wine based on a winery’s choice in being sustainable or organic? Do you know what those terms even mean?

Lets start with some basic Definitions (from Wine Spectator’s Dr. Vinny)

These terms vary in the way they’re defined and regulated, but I’ll do my best to sort out the way they’re most typically used.

The U.S. government regulates use of the term “organic,” but “sustainable” and “biodynamic” have no legal definitions. So I’ll start with organic: there are two types of organic listings on wine bottles. Wines can be made from certified organically grown grapes, avoiding any synthetic additives, or, to take it a step further, “organic” wines are made from organically grown grapes, and are also made without any added sulfites (though naturally occurring sulfites will still be present).

Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that both take place without chemicals, but biodynamic farming incorporates ideas about a vineyard as an ecosystem, and also accounting for things such as astrological influences and lunar cycles. A biodynamic wine means that the grapes are farmed biodynamically, and that the winemaker did not make the wine with any common manipulations such as yeast additions or acidity adjustments. A wine “made from biodynamic grapes” means that a vintner used biodynamically grown grapes, but followed a less strict list of rules in winemaking.

Sustainability refers to a range of practices that are not only ecologically sound, but also economically viable and socially responsible. (Sustainable farmers may farm largely organically or biodynamically but have flexibility to choose what works best for their individual property; they may also focus on energy and water conservation, use of renewable resources and other issues.) Some third-party agencies offer sustainability certifications, and many regional industry associations are working on developing clearer standards.

If you’d like to know if a wine falls into any of these categories, check out the label. Here you’ll find a lot of clues—various trademarked symbols and logos are used, and if a winery is going to adhere to these practices, they’re likely to want you to know about it. You can also check out a winery’s website, which usually goes into details about how a wine was grown and made.

Okay, now back to me, and my own feelings to share with you at this point in your wine education. After reading the knowledgeable Dr. Vinny, do you feel compelled to seek out wines made via organic, biodynamic and/or sustainable winery practices? If so, I think you should.

I’ve tasted my fair share of wines made in many different ways. My personal opinion (and I know I may lose a few readers over this) is similar to how I feel reading a book. Does the information presented, in both fiction and non-fiction, further the story or not?

Taken a step further, and down a row of vines, if the wine tastes better because owls (in one winery case the owls had fine “condos” built for them to attract them to the property) killed a pest like gophers then that’s great. If the wine’s price increased because of the winery practices, that’s okay with me too, within reason. But if the wine takes a page from my book instead of adding to it, I’d skip the wine in the future.

To be more succinct: I’m ruled by palate and not winery practices. You have to do your own tasting/testing to make your own decision. And, if you find an organic/biodynamic/sustainable wine that tastes better because of the winery practices? Let me know about it!

(Note: a word about sulfite preservatives. There are two schools of thought: They cause headaches and they don’t cause headaches. One wine educator explained that if the sufferer also suffers headaches after eating dried fruit with sulfites then it’s the sulfites. More often, and I tend to agree, it’s dehydration that causes the headache. My rule of thumb is to consume one glass of water for every glass of wine.)

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Meeting Winemaker Sharon Kazan Harris, a Very RareCat

May 8, 2015 by evebushman

I just had a very nice tasting with a female vintner new to me – and I bet new to most for making wine here and in Bordeaux? Really? Read on as all will be revealed after the tasting.

Tasting RareCat

2014 Grenache Rose “Brigitte”, California (East Napa Valley, sourced near Davis) $24

With a touch (8%) of Viognier, this Provençale style rose delivers aromatics that are bursting, a beautiful color, and what Harris called “Liquid happiness…like summer…smell of wet tar is a summer thing.” The Viognier adds minerality, and is akin to “an elegant lady that works out at the gym with a small bicep you can’t quite see but know it’s there.” Small production (not quite sold out) of 170 cases, but will do closer to 600 cases next year.

Champagne colored, clear.

Aromas reminiscent of yellow peaches, pink grapefruit, steely, sweet cream; flavors of grapefruit, lemon, tart, medium acid, nice long finish.

2011 Chardonnay, Charles Heintz, Russian River Valley $65

Fermented in barrel for up to 22 months, malolactic fermentation due to 2011 being a highly acidic year.

The color of golden yellow, clear.

On the nose you may find freshly churned butter, lemon grass, yellow delicious apples, a hint of anise; while on the palate you will find the perfect balance of fruit and acid, lingering oak through the finish, Meyer lemon and white pepper.

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga, Napa Valley (Blended with a small percentage of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) $100

Planted in 2000 on a steep hillside vineyard (33 plus degree slope) in Napa County, Calistoga, southern facing, no direct afternoon sun, small fruit clusters, with cool wind blowing out heat in the vineyard every afternoon.

Dark blackberry colored, thin darker border, opaque.

A beautiful bowl of black fruit, blueberry, plum, black pepper, black licorice, dark chocolate, wet bark will greet you on the nose; while bold dark fruits, pepper is there but softened, chewy chocolate, and a dazzling long finish on the palate.

More

Harris’ goal is to make small production wines, and has been ever since her early days of education in Bordeaux.

A rare beauty, a woman, is sometimes referred to as a rare cat, Harris explained. And a great wine is made unique as “they don’t reveal themselves all at once.” Harris believes that part of enjoying wine is the context – who you drink it with and when.

These things guide Harris: She wants to make beautiful wines. She doesn’t want to make a lot of wines; she wants to stay small to keep the connections valid. She’s in the business of creating great experiences, so when you visit her property and home she makes her guests feel connected and special.

Why make it a business tool? Wine brings people together and keeps them together. Harris plans on keeping her female-run business a profitable and responsible one; to that aim she wants to sell direct.

Harris is the only American woman making a wine in Bordeaux and is going through the process of making an estate-specific St. Emilion wine right now. And the Grand Cru vineyard is 200 yards from her home there. She can limit a few tiers of the usual distribution process, so Harris plans to import her wine for less cost. Produced by Rarecat for Rarecat, instead of selling her Bordeaux for up to $100 she will sell direct to her California customers for $48. She is just waiting for the federal license to come through. She is already working on the label, and it could just be another 4 to 5 months before we see the fruits of her labor.

Additional to all of this Harris spends much of her time teaching. One class, “Don’t give up the wine list” was developed as she believes that women can be cheap with themselves as we don’t spend on ourselves. Harris uses wine as a tool, helping women in business.

Harris feels “an obligation to be a great mentor to other women…now that the doors have been opened to us by other women before us.” Causes for women and children are “nearer and dearer” to Sharon’s heart.

RARECAT WINES: Backgrounder

Coordinates:

P.O.B. 801, Rutherford CA 94573

Phone: 707-968-5031, 650-464-9408

Fax: 707-286-5503

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RarecatWines

Website: http://www.rarecatwines.com/

E-mail: info@rarecatwines.com or sharon@rarecatwines.com

Tastings available only by appointment at the office in St. Helena

Visits to Chateau des Amis in St. Emilion, France, www.winevillas.com

Founder/proprietor: Sharon Kazan Harris

Sharon’s love of wine started when she spent her junior year of college abroad, at the Université de Bordeaux. She was taken under the wing of the wife of the University’s president, which is how she found herself, at age 20, being taken on a personal tour of Chateau Haut Brion, producer of one of the greatest wines in the world. The tour was led by the legendary Monsieur Delmas, who kindly let her taste the renowned 1982 vintage out of the barrel, followed by the 1966. After graduating from college Sharon returned to Bordeaux and lived with the Boutarics, the famed cheese mongers at La Marche des Grands Hommes, while she worked at The St. James, a two-star restaurant, under Jean-Marie Amat, the owner and chef. That moment changed her life and sealed her interest in wine and the Bordeaux region itself. Some years later, after a career in publishing and technology, with a young family in tow, Sharon applied and was accepted to the prestigious DUAD program (the Diplome Universitaire d’Aptitude a la Degustation des Vins) offered through the Université de Bordeaux’s Oenology department. The DUAD is an intensive yearlong program that takes four years of oenology and condenses it into one compacted year: it is a technical oenology degree program taught in French. Several years later Sharon returned to the States and moved to Napa Valley. Today Sharon is one of only two women working as vintners in the Napa Valley who hold the DUAD degree. Sharon keeps her links to Bordeaux very present, maintaining a second home in Bordeaux today. As she works on the RARECAT wines, her passion extends to empowering women through wine and supporting women in the wine industry. Several years ago she formed an unusual ‘trade’ group called Wine Entre Femmes, comprised of female vintners from Napa and Bordeaux. In 2012 she established A Woman’s Palate, a company that celebrates wines by women for women. “I am lucky; I am living my passion,” Sharon says.

Visit Experience: By appointment Sharon welcomes guests into her home, where winery business takes place in a rehab’d warehouse, reached through a stylish courtyard ringed with olive trees and a firepit. The warehouse, with its enormous high ceiling and roll-up garage-style industrial chic wall-door, is an intriguing mix of family antiques (fifteenth century Spanish throne!), rare early California-era paintings, antiques and a 30’-long wooden farmhouse table. One façade of the warehouse features a graffiti art installation, painted on the spot during a happening-wine tasting in the fall of 2014 by local artist Alex Dunne, part of the What Is Beauty series (photos and more at http://www.rarecatwines.com/Story/What-is-Beauty-Art-Series ). It is in this unusual and eclectic setting with an urban modern chic vibe where Sharon shares her passion and wine knowledge.

Winemaker: Joel Aiken

Founded: With the release of the 2009 RARECAT Lionheart Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley

Current releases:

RARECAT Old Toll Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $100

RARECAT Chardonnay Russian River Charles Heintz 2011 $65 (2012 vintage will be released in May 2015)

Coming in summer 2015: RARECAT St. Emilion, $48

A Woman’s Palate: Sharon founded A Woman’s Palate in 2012 with businesswoman Susan Citron. A Woman’s Palate introduces women vintners and their stories, shares their wines with a larger audience of women and offers programs educating women about wine, including Don’t Give Up The Wine List. Vintner members are some of the most well-known and respected women winemakers in Napa and Sonoma. One recent event was a Boot Camp event in May, which included private events at Spottswoode, St. Supery and Domaine Carneros as well as a cheese class with Lassa Skinner, co-founder of Culture and a Napa cheesemonger.

More at www.awomanspalate.com, www.facebook.com/awomanspalate, www.pinterest.com/awomanspalate and @awomanspalate.

Villa in St. Emilion:

Chateau des Amis is owned by Sharon Kazan Harris. Arriving in Bordeaux in 1983, Sharon studied at the Université de Bordeaux, worked for a two-star Restaurant in Bouliac and has lived in St. Emilion off and on over the years. Sharon loves to share her passion for this beautiful region and offers this villa as a home base for visitors. St. Emilion is UNESCO’s first world heritage site and one of France’s most bucolic villages. Surrounded by hillside vineyards and world-class wine chateaux, the village of St. Emilion is filled with restaurants, shops and historic buildings and shops. Chateau des Amis is the only luxury villa for rent in the village of St. Emilion. Located just outside the village’s Roman wall, this 4 bedroom villa is strolling distance to all of the local landmarks. The villa combines old world charm with modern amenities. More at http://winevillas.com/.

Toscana Restaurant Presents Winemaker Dinner with Joe Davis and Arcadian Winery

March 25, 2015 by evebushman

A Favorite from the Lompoc Ghetto, Arcadian will Feature Five Wines from the Collection to Pair with the Four Course Tuscan Dinner

WHO: Executive Chef Hugo Vasquez, Wine Director Emily Johnston of TOSCANA, and Winemaker Joe Davis, Arcadian Winery

WHAT: TOSCANA welcomes Joe Davis of Arcadia Winery, who will introduce wines from their exceptional winery in Lompoc, California. The four course Tuscan menu by Chef Hugo Vasquez will be paired with five wines from the collection.

Joe Davis began his winemaking career in the 1980s, opening his own brand in 1996. He has consistently made quality Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah from some of the most prestigious vineyards in the Central Coast. Particularly interesting is the ageability of his wines. He may be releasing 7 year old wines while many Central Coast producers are focusing on wines to be drunk in their youth. Greatly influenced by his role models in Burgundy (namely Domaine Dujac), Davis uses techniques such as stem inclusion and extended barrel aging to make his wines full structured and age worthy. Like a top negociant, Davis knows all the intricacies of the vineyards he uses and keeps detailed logs of each vintage he harvests. Look forward to the 2001 Gary’s Vineyard Syrah which Davis touts as the best wine he has ever made from Gary’s Vineyard.

Traditionally, Arcadian harvests fruit with more modest sugar levels and higher natural acidity than many of their fellow growers. The belief that Arcadian wines will continue to evolve in the bottle for years to come and that this will ultimately produce a more interesting wine is what drives the philosophy of these wines. “I admire Joe Davis’s willingness to take risks,” states Antonio Galloni in his 2013 Vinous Media reviews for Arcadian, continuing, “The intellectual desire to experiment and push the envelope is a quality many of the world’s greatest winemakers share.”

Chef Hugo Vasquez’s Dinner for Spring with Arcadian Wine Pairings

Canape

Cheese and Zucchini Souffle

Ham and Cheese Tartlets

Spinach and Ricotta Tartlets

Arcadian Chardonnay ‘Sleepy Hollow Vineyard’ 2008

Antipasto

Bruschetta with Porchetta and Red and Yellow Bell Peppers

Arcadian Pinot Noir ‘Sleepy Hollow Vineyard’ 2005

Primo Piatto

Risotto with Grilled Cuttlefish, Cherry Tomatoes and Artichokes

Arcadian Pinot Noir ‘Gold Coast Vineyard’ 2008

Secondo Piatto

Grilled Lamb Chops with Herbs and Seasonal Vegetables

Arcadian Syrah ‘Westerly Vineyard’ 2007

Dolce

Assortment of Italian Cheeses and Fresh Fruit

Arcadian Syrah ‘Gary’s Vineyard’ 2001

Wine Director Emily Johnston: photo courtesy of Rob Stark Photography

price $130 per guest all-inclusive, tickets may be purchased by calling Toscana: 310.820.2448

Menu by Executive Chef Hugo Vasquez, Wine Pairings by Sommelier Emily Johnston

WHEN: ONE NIGHT ONLY Tuesday, April 7, 2015, 7:00 p.m.

$130 per guest, inclusive of menu, wines, taxes and gratuities; seating is limited

Winemaker Joe Davis will be present to meet guests and discuss the wines

Reservations may be made by phone with credit card pre-payment

WHERE:

TOSCANA

11633 San Vicente Boulevard, #100

Los Angeles, CA 90049

310.820.2448

ABOUT TOSCANA:

TOSCANA quietly opened in April of 1989 by first time restaurateurs Mike and Kathie Gordon who dreamed of recreating the simple, delicious food and warm, inviting ambiance they found in Italy. TOSCANA’s success exceeded all expectations. The restaurant was quickly discovered and populated by guests who became regulars, dining on exquisite and authentic Italian fare a few times a week for lunch and dinner. Twenty five years later, TOSCANA continues to thrive.

Become a Fan of Toscana on Facebook:

www.facebook.com/ToscanaBrentwood

Follow Toscana on Twitter: @Toscana1989

www.Toscanabrentwood.com

Perlis Picks: Law Estate Wines

January 10, 2015 by evebushman

Law Estate Wines

www.lawestatewines.com

I give all props to my wife Karen on introducing me to Law Estate Wines

We were attending the Ojai Wine Festival in 2013 and Karen had just come back from the VIP Tent. “You have to try Law”, she said. “They’re wines are really good.” She was right. They were definitely our [well her] find of the festival that day.

We visited general manager Oliver Esperham sometime after that at the still-under-construction winery in Paso Robles and tasted through the whole lineup of the winery’s first 2010 vintage releases. We found extremely high quality across the board.

The winery and tasting room are now open and we paid Law a return visit recently. Everything is state of the art, the winery itself is practically a work of art, and rockstar winemaker Scott Hawley and his team make the wines. Clearly, no expense has been spared by owners Don and Susie Law. And while I have reported on Law before, my expectations that with all the resources that were committed to this effort, the results had to be good.

But I didn’t expect this…

When we sat down and tasted the 2011 releases at the winery, I realized these wines were not just really good. I am always loathe to toss out superlatives like “best ever” or to try to assign numerical scores to a subjective topic. I can, however, say that without question that I cannot recall tasting another winery’s lineup where the wines were better than these.

We tasted the following from the 2011 vintage:

Beguiling – 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah

Sagacious – 38% Syrah, 34% Mourvedre, 28% Grenache

Intrepid – 100% Syrah

Audacious – 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Syrah, 18% Grenache, 8% Petite Sirah

As I said, the last time I tasted the Law wines was the 2010 vintage. At the time, I compared them [favorably] to some of the very well made Australian Syrah and Rhone blends that I have had. I would say the same of the 2011s, except more so. The fruit was consistently incredible, but to me the acidity has been really nailed on these, so that after every taste your palate just cried out for more.

Law also made a fifth wine from the 2011 vintage. Called The Nines, it is 100% Grenache from two blocks of the Law Vineyard, block 9A and 9B. We did not get to taste this wine, unfortunately. It is the first of their black label series, reserved for a select few top of the line bottlings. I’m really curious how much better the wine could actually be compared to their outstanding “standard” lineup, and I am hoping one day soon to rectify that.

As if as this wasn’t enough, we then visited the barrel room to taste some of the 2013 wines in barrel. [2012 wines are already resting in bottles.] Tasting through the Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, it is clear that the high quality we experienced tasting the 2011s was going to continue. And with additional varietals being planted in the Law vineyard [Tempranillo, Clairette Blanche, Marsanne, Roussanne as well as a field blend of Syrah, Viognier and Roussanne] it is clear that Law Estate Wines has a great future ahead of it.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Ravenswood

November 29, 2014 by evebushman

Ravenswood

http://www.ravenswoodwinery.com/

Long ago, before the internet took over all our lives, I became a fan of Zinfandel. At the time, it was always a good bet to look for the three Rs of Zinfandel. What? You say there’s no R in Zinfandel? You’re not looking closely enough. If you bring your face closer to the monitor, and squint a little, you should be able to see Ridge, Rosenblum and last, but definitely not least, Ravenswood. I always knew that these wineries would provide me with high quality and interesting wines to satiate, at least temporarily, my Zinfandel loving palate.

JOEL PETERSON

As my obsession with wine grew, and with the internet making research so much easier, my search for new up and coming wineries overshadowed my interest in the older wineries that had already achieved great success. All that kind of came full circle a few months ago when my wife Karen and I had the opportunity to attend the Historic Vineyard Society Vineyard Tour and Dinner. Not only were we hanging out with the likes of Mike Officer of Carlisle, Tegan Passalacqua of Turley and Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock, but Joel Peterson, Morgan’s father and backer of Bedrock as well as being the founder of Ravenswood, was not only there but the tour guide on our bus. I took advantage of pauses between his tour guide duties to ask him a lot of questions about the old days as well as what was going on at Ravenswood currently.

Fast forward to our current trip to Sonoma, and I knew I wanted to meet up with Joel again if at all possible. Fortunately his schedule permitted – you never know, as Joel had just gotten back from a trip to Canada. [It turns out Ravenswood Zinfandel is very popular there, as well as in Kuala Lumpur and the Nordics. Who knew?]

Ravenswood makes three different “levels” of wines, plus their mixed black blend known as Icon. We skipped the workhorse Vintners Blend series and sampled heavily from the County Series and Single Vineyard Designates, finishing with the Icon:

2012 Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel

2011 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel

2012 Dickerson Zinfandel

2012 Belloni Zinfandel

2012 Bedrock Zinfandel

2012 Barricia Zinfandel

2012 Old Hill Zinfandel

2012 Icon

Here are some paraphrased comments in italics from Joel while we sampled the wines we were tasting:

Winemaking is stopping the spoilage process somewhere along the way.

Wines have their “alcohol sweet spots” and the key is balancing between that alcohol level and acid.

Ravenswood is probably the largest fermenter using native yeasts.

Ravenswood was one of the first wineries to label wine as coming from Lodi.

The Dickerson Vineyard Zinfandel gets its distinctive bright flavors due to the vineyard being infected with leafroll virus. Sadly, the Ruby Cabernet that was also planted in this vineyard was too far gone with this virus and had to be pulled out. [MP: This vineyard is special to me, for reasons you might be tired of reading about. If you are so inclined, I explained it here: http://evewine101.com/2014/07/05/perlis-picks-historic-vineyard-society-tour-dinner-part-2/]

The Belloni Zinfandel is 78% Zinfandel, the rest being various mixed blacks such as Alicante Bouschet. It is typically the last vineyard picked each year.

The 119 acre Bedrock Vineyard was planted in the mid 1850s and went through a few different owners before being acquired by Joel Peterson and son Morgan-Twain Peterson in 2004. As with many of the old vineyards, this is a mixture of other black grapes, although primarily Zinfandel. [MP: I was especially interested in this as I am a big fan of the Zinfandel that comes from this vineyard, both under the Bedrock winery label as well as other producers, most recently Limerick Lane.]

The Barricia Vineyard is adjacent to the Bedrock, very similar, slightly different grape mix.

Old Hill Vineyard was planted in 1862. This brought up the topic of who planted Zinfandel in California. While the Italians are often credited, New Englanders brought cuttings from the East Coast as they moved West.

The Icon is a mixed black blend from five different vineyards.

The wines were universally outstanding. It was interesting to compare the nuances of the various vineyards, something you can really only do with a side-by-side tasting. As an added treat, knowing my affinity for the Dickerson Vineyard, Joel brought out a bottle of the 1987. While not all Zinfandels [in fact, not all wines] can age, this Zin had, very gracefully. Some of the bright fruit had faded, but there was still plenty in evidence along with the added complexity that the integration of aging brings.

Joel was pretty much destined to get into the wine industry, even though he started his career as a medical researcher. But then, both his parents were chemists, yet had deep interests in food and wine. Joel’s mother helped edit Alice Waters’ first cookbook and his father started the San Francisco Wine Wine Sampling Club (now San Francisco Vintners Club). So, when Joel and Joe Swan had a fateful conversation at the Vintners Club, he already had a lot of wine knowledge and it was no surprise that he ended up working with Swan for four years before starting Ravenswood in 1976.

When I met Joel earlier this year, I told him I considered him to be the “Godfather of Zinfandel”. He just smiled. I should have known that I was not the first one to call him that. But, the title fits, as Joel is greatly responsible for the current state and popularity of Zinfandel. And, I’m happy to report that I shouldn’t have been ignoring Ravenswood. The wines are great!

The Beauty of Paso Robles – Destination B&E Vineyard, by Rusty Sly

November 17, 2014 by evebushman

Driving on Creston Road through Creston we caught a glimpse of a sign as we flew past that said B&E Vineyard. It was unanimous by all to turn around and check out this winery that none of us were familiar with. Driving up to the tasting room you can see their beautiful vineyards as you approach what looks like a saloon from the wild west. Walking into this quaint tasting room you will see antique memorabilia that quickly transports you into an era long gone. The friendly nature of the old days are reinforced with a greeting from Patti Bello who, with her husband Jerry Bello, own and operate B&E Vineyard. To complete our arrival we were met by Zeke, the resident dog greeter, and his wagging tail.

Patti Bello.

It is a small family run winery where they do everything from working the vineyards, making the wines, and operate the tasting room. In the early years they sourced their grapes to other wineries but according to their website, “In 1994 we started making our own wine but did not label any for sale until 2002. We started in 2002 with small lots and have been increasing our production since then.” Many of their wines have won awards and have been rated from 90 to 91 points by judges. The primary varietals that they produce are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. I enjoyed all of the wines that Patti poured for us on our visit but my biggest thrill was tasting their absolutely gorgeous Merlots. This is a varietal that has received poor recognition since the Hollywood movie “Sideways” when Miles said, ” No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any @#$%&! Merlot!” This is a shame as Merlot can be used in so many ways. The Grand Cru Bordeaux Petrus is almost 100% Merlot. I would not turn down even a small taste of this wine. Often used in blending, it can soften rough edges or bring out some fruit profiles that are missing in a wine.

Jerry and Patti are definitely going in a direction with their wines that I loved. It is no secret that I am a huge Meritage addict. The 2010 Red Rhythm is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot. Absolutely gorgeous wine with its soft fruit flavors of the Merlot that is built on a solid Cabernet Sauvignon body. The tannins and acidity are structured and well integrated in this work of art. To really get an appreciation of B&E Vineyards Merlots, you need to try their 2008 and 2009. Each has its own uniqueness in flavor profile and acid structure but they are both beautiful wines.

They have a small section of their vineyard where they grow other reds for blending. One of these grapes is Syrah. As I venture through different Paso wineries I am finding that the terroir of this region produces spectacular Syrahs. B&E has two wines that use Syrah that are definitely worth mentioning. The 2009 Red Rhythm that contains 62% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Syrah. This wine was beautiful offering fantastic flavor and balance that one would expect from a well made blend. Now for the grand finale…they created a wine called Que Sera which is an absolutely gorgeous port type wine made from Syrah grapes. So intense and full of beautiful flavors that you will not leave without at least one bottle once you taste it.

As mentioned in my other articles on my recent trip to Paso, B&E follows suit with that warm, friendly hospitable environment that seems infectious to Paso Robles wineries. Even Zeke, Patti’s dog, provides lots of attention to the guests of B&E. The day we were there was on the 4th of July weekend and Patti said that it was very slow but still took pride in showing us the beauty of their artistic wines and opened new ones if she felt the wine did not offer the best showing. This practice of checking wines that sometimes are opened for one or two days is rare as it cuts into profits if they replace bottles for tastings. This is a sign of a professionally operated tasting room. Looking at the awards and ratings, it shows that they are very serious about their wines. It is evident she definitely wants you, the guest, to see the best that their winery has to offer. You must visit B&E Vineyards. It is a real treat.

http://www.bevineyard.com/

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

The Beauty of Paso – Destination Chateau Margene, by Rusty Sly

October 6, 2014 by evebushman

To provide a little change during this trip to Paso we decided to visit new wineries that we had not tried. One winery that we visited just outside of Creston was Chateau Margene. I have had many Paso residents that know the types of wines that I enjoy recommend this winery; lucky for me we were lucky to have Larry and Gloria Stahly with us on this trek to the East side. I am so glad they had this as one of our stops. On our visit we were lucky to run into Michael Mooney the owner/vintner of Chateau Margene. He was in the process of packing and getting ready to prepare for the opening of their new tasting room in Morro Bay. As is typical with Paso Robles wineries, he stopped what he was doing and began talking to us about his wines.

During our discussion, I found out that he was on the board of the Paso Robles CAB Collective. CAB stands for Cabernet and Bordeaux and the organization known as PRCC for short was originally established by DAOU Vineyards & Winery, J. Lohr Vineyards & Winery and Justin Vineyards & Winery. Every year the founding members elect two seats. The goal of the PRCC is to bring attention to the quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends produced in Paso, and second, to connect local growers and vintners to help continue raising the bar for Cabs and Bordeaux wines from the area. Though the Rhone Rangers have had a major impact on Paso with Rhone varietals there are only 17% Rhone varietals verses 55% Bordeaux varietals grown in Paso Vineyards. Mike Mooney of Chateau Margene was elected and occupies one of the seats on the board of the PRCC as well as JADA Vineyards and Winery.

PRCC’s goal is to show everyone the quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux (Meritage) wines from the area. Chateau Margene, like DAOU, definitely produces wines that will blow you away. We started our tasting off with a Grenache Blanc. The wine was crisp with an excellent balance of acid followed by a slight apple finish. The next wine varietals poured were absolute winners for my wife – Pinot Noirs! Mike poured a 2012 Mooney Family Pinot Noir from the Boekenoogen Vineyard that was unbelievable. The grapes used are from one of my favorite regions, Santa Lucia Highlands. This pinot was not for the light weight pinot drinkers it had a beautiful extraction displaying fantastic depth and dark color. The cherry flavor coats the mouth and lasts forever on the palate. An absolutely beautiful wine.

Next we stepped into the world of Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends. To start out, we were poured a 2011 Meritage, which is the name for American Bordeaux blend, known as Claret in Britain. This style of wine can have one or more of these specific five varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec. Carmenere is a sixth varietal that can be used but rarely is. The Meritage produced by Mike has 40% Cab Franc, 35% Merlot and 25 % Cabernet Sauvignon. The flavors of dark fruits along with silky smooth tannins are spectacular. The Cabernet Franc definitely makes its presence center stage in this wine and is unique because you do not see Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot as the primary or base grape in this Meritage. I am not complaining as I love this varietal and this wine was perfectly made.

Chateau Margene – Mike Mooney

Though we tried many different wines, and I highly recommend them all, I want to mention one of his estate wines called Cask 4. It is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes with 50% of the grapes being estate grown. We were honored to try this wine as it has only been bottled for four months. WOW! Have you ever tasted a wine that is this young and is drinking this phenomenal that you start to wonder if it is possible to get any better with age?! This wine was beautiful. You can see the passion that Mike Mooney puts into his wine. Mike is so intent on not allowing any type of influences affect his wines that the Cabernet and Meritage are processed in a completely separate room than his Pinot Noir. He does this to prevent any possible influence from the different yeasts that are used among other things allowing control in preserving the pristine profile expected for each varietal. Even his barrels are made by bending the staves using water rather than heat, thus lowering the toasty aromas from the barrels that would affect the wine. Such details are what create great wines.

The wines from Chateau Margene show that Mike takes great pride in making them. This is also a family run winery, Chateau Margene is named after Mike’s wife, Margene. Mike’s son and daughter-in-law are also an active part at the winery. If you visit the winery, there is a nice selection of varietals to enhance anyone’s palate and all are excellent. Chateau Margene again reinforces that welcome feeling that I am trying to showcase in this series of articles from my last trip. Even when you are not known when you walk in you definitely become part of the family at the winery. What a great feeling.

http://www.chateaumargene.com/

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

The Beauty of Paso Robles – Destination DAOU Mountain, by Rusty Sly

September 22, 2014 by evebushman

The beauty of Paso Robles lies deep within its roots. Most people think that it is a community for wine lovers but it goes much deeper than that. This adventure was shared with Larry and Gloria Stahly, Robert Schwemmer, Desiree Thatch and of course my lovely wife and birthday girl, Tracy. This trip was planned around visiting a few of my all time favorite wineries but also new ones on the East side of the 101 freeway. Since I had the honor of having a professional photographer (Robert Schwemmer) I will showcase this trip with pictures from both Robert and me showing the ambiance and beauty of DAOU Mountain. As the saying goes, “A picture is worth a thousand words.”

Rusty & Tracy

Many of you know that I love the DAOU Winery and the wines created by Daniel Daou. The key attraction is the feeling that you get from the moment you drive through the gates of DAOU Vineyards and step through the door of the tasting room. You will be greeted by all of the staff members that you cross paths with followed by friendly smiles that say, “Welcome to DAOU”. Step up to the tasting bar and again you will be met with smiles as they guide you through the wines along with a detailed and knowledgeable description of each wine poured. Each guest (not group) is provided with this along with answers to questions that you may have on the processing, grape source, etc. Yes, they are always busy but their efforts are still focused on making sure that EVERYONE as an individual is attended to and having a great time. During the pouring the knowledgeable staff will provide you with details on the heritage of DAOU Mountain or future plans from the Daou brothers. You can spend hours here and time flies with all that is offered.

On this visit, we were met by Lisa Colwell (Assistant Tasting Manager) who introduced us to Kelsey Loupy (Wine Steward). Kelsey is going to college and struggling as we all did with what path or major she wants to pursue. In talking with her, it is definitely no secret that she loves being involved with wines. Being a science major we had some very interesting discussions on various topics about wines. I wish I had started learning about wines at her age. Daniel and Georges have put together a fantastic team from wine stewards, chefs, managers, etc. The chemistry of the team shows.

For this tasting Lisa and Kelsey directed us to a beautiful patio table overlooking the valley to sample their fine wines. What a gorgeous view overlooking the valley from the DAOU tasting room which is perched high on a mountain top. My focus for this tasting was on a newly released Rose made from 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. The Rose was delicate and very refreshing on this warm day in Paso Robles. The color is beautiful offering a shade that matches many Rose wines from Provence, France. Mildly dry on the palate, there is a nice balance of acidity with light flavors of pomegranate making it very fresh and vibrant.

The Rose, as with many of Daniel’s creations, are unique blends rather than the traditional French style of wine making. Daniel and Georges selected Paso Robles to be the home for DAOU Winery so that they could remove themselves from the restrictions and controls mandated by the French AOC on how wines can be blended. Daniel did not want to be inhibited as he wanted to use his creative ability to create fantastic wines that people will love and appreciate. His wine, “Unbound”, was named in honor of his freedom from French AOC regulations which allowed him free reign to blend whatever he desired. Many of the Estate wines at DAOU are named by Daniel and Georges Daou in dedication to family members or events such as:

Mayote named in honor of their mother. Mayote was their mother’s nickname (Marie).
Soul of a Lion named after their father, Joseph, as they felt like he had the soul of a lion.
Micho named in honor of their beloved sister that passed away.
Celestus named after the night sky they were viewing from the sandy beach in Florida one night.

The names and meanings of their wines show their feelings and value that they place on both personal family and the DAOU family (staff). In talking to many of the employees of DAOU Vineyard I always get a common statement that the Daou brothers treat them like family. This feeling of happiness and security radiates on DAOU Mountain.

Bob Schwemmer by Rusty.

This warmth and family traditions are found in many of the Paso Robles wineries. Over the next few articles I will try to capture “The Beauty Of Paso Robles”.

http://www.daouvineyards.com/

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Grape of the Night Explores Albariño Wines From Spain

July 24, 2014 by evebushman

As Grape of the Night (GOTN) continues our exploration of wines from different countries, regions and states we returned to Spain to sample another wine from the old world called Albariño. Wines from Spain are not high on most drinkers list when selecting to purchase or drink. This is really too bad as Spain produces fantastic red wines that are very reasonably priced.

Albariño wines originated in Rias Baixas in the Galicia region of northwestern Spain. It was believed that Cistercian monks of Burgundy known as the Cluny commune brought the introduction of a Riesling clone from Alsace France to Rias Baixas in the 12th century. However, there have been questions on the date this occurred as Riesling grapes only date back to the 15th century. The Cluny monks always developed vineyards in locations where they settled and built their churches. No different than the Cistercian monks in Belgium that make beer, cheese, etc. for the community to survive.

Today Albariño grapes are grown in Portugal, Australia, Oregon, Virginia and California. In Spain, 90% of the vines planted in Rias Baixas are Albariño where they are grown in soil consisting of granite and chalk. Albariño vines in this region are trained to grow on pergolas as seen below.

Pergola style trellising system in the Rias Baixas. Photos by Dennis Schaefer

The pergola is used to keep the grapes off the ground and well ventilated since they are grown so close to the Atlantic ocean where mist from the ocean can affect the growth of the vines. Another reason to grow the vines on pergolas is to allow the farmers to grow other types of crops below the vines making productive use of their precious land.

Albariño wines from Spain are ranked very highly offering minerality with a nice balance of acidity. The aromatics and palate offer fantastic floral aromas and flavors of apricot and peach. The Albariño wines tasted by GOTN were as follows:

2011 Columna Albariño

Aroma – Mildly floral with notes of honeysuckle
Palate – Pineapple, white peaches, minerality on the finish and a great acid balance
Note – Rias Baixas, Spain. Received 91 points from Robert Parker

2011 Martin Codax

Aroma – Petrol
Palate – High acidity, dry and granite
Note – Rias Baixas, Spain. Of interest was the petrol aromatic from this wine, which is a characteristic found in aged Riesling wines.

2012 Skyhawk Lane

Aroma – Hazelnuts and wild flowers
Palate – Butter, minerality, acidity and spices on the finish
Note – San Luis Obispo, California

Appellation America provides a great summary of this fantastic wine to help remember all of the subtle nuisances of this varietal.

From Appellation America
Albariño…you’re a clever fellow who’s managed to stay hidden from the public eye for far too long. Your low key attitude and green attire has allowed you to discretely blend in with the lush surroundings of your coastal Iberian home. Alas you were finally spotted, perched high on a pergola above rows of crops on the family farm. Your recent arrival in North America has done little to sway your disposition. You remain the unassuming farmer — a perfect match for Oregon and California. For the most part, but changing, the American public remains unaware of your presence as you do your thing well camouflaged amidst the Pacific mist.

As always, I would like to thank everyone that attended and our fantastic host, Valencia Wine Company.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Scott Richardson: Wines to pair with your July Fourth Burger Celebration

July 3, 2014 by evebushman

Happy Fourth of July – Celebrate with style and light up that grill, make your favorite burger… sip your favorite wine… but for some, which wine to pair with the plethora of grilled goodies? Let me suggest some guidelines followed by my choices of wines to pair with those delectable patties, no matter what protein you use; there is a wine that will complement.

Bison Burger on Sourdough Bun

Which Wine to Pair with the Burgers:

Grilling your burger means you have to look at full-bodied wines. However, there are always exceptions, especially if quinoa-falafel burgers are involved. Also remember the toppings you choose for your July 4^th burger fest can also affect your wine choice… slow roasted tomatoes, shrimp, Portobello mushrooms, even the cheeses you use. Paying attention to the details will help you choose the perfect wine.

Red Meat Hamburgers: Using red meat for your burger requires a full-bodied wine.

White Wine: “The Calling” Chardonnay 2012 ($30) from Dutton Ranch. This is rich and smooth wine with subtle hints of oak and crisp flavors of Meyer lemon, honeydew melon and juicy white nectarines.

Red Wine: Norton Privada, Malbec, 2009 ($22). On the nose it has a subtle graham cracker, lush berry and sweet pastry dough. This Malbec has some decent acidity and smooth tannins, with spicy, complex blackberry and cassis flavors with a long finish.

Red Wine: Shotfire Ridge Shiraz, 2011 ($20). This wine is one of my favorite wines to drink on a regular basis. Keep a case or two in your cellar. This wine has a deep ruby/purple color is complemented by notes of blackberries, black currants, licorice, and subtle smokiness.”

Red Wine: Peju Zinfandel, 2011 ($35). Peju is one of my favorite vineyards to visit and wines to drink, even though 2011 was a challenging vintage in CA, the winemaker, Sara Fowler created an amazing Zin. This Zinfandel has loads of cherries, spice, roses, and oak vanilla finishing with some dusty, summertime brambleberries and under ripe raspberries.

Turkey Burgers: I would suggest medium to full-bodied wines when using ground turkey for your burger meat.

White Wine: Armani Pinot Grigio Venezie, 2010 ($12). This wine has crisp (dry) green apple and pear flavors are highlighted by a light creaminess with a subtle hint of lemon on the nose.

Turkey, onion, and Scotch Bonnet infused Burger

Rosé Wine: Domaine Mordoree Tavel, 2012 ($28). I find this rosé can handle the bacon or fried egg very well, along with the beef. It is a bright and crisp wine with fresh strawberry and floral notes, balanced with a medium acidity.

Red Wine: OFV Pinot Noir Willamette, 2011 ($20). This outstanding wine has dark cherries, cola, tea and spice; medium bodied with a firm, crisp finish that proficiently balances the fruit forwardness. Some additional notes of red rose petals.

Tuna, Crab or Quinoa-falafel burgers: Try these wine options with tuna, crab, or quinoa-falafel burgers. Remember to look for light to medium-bodied wines. It is possible to grill a crab burger or even Quinoa-Falafel burgers, so take a risk and light up your grill.

Champagne: Veuve Clicquot Brut NV ($45). Since we are celebrating the birth of America, celebrate with bubbles. This racy acidic Champagne has a streak of minerality and offers subtle notes of white peach, anise, biscuit and kumquat.

White Wine: Cottesbrook Gewürztraminer, 2012, New Zealand ($14). This wine has lots going on in the bottle. Crushed rose petals with some exotic spices. There is some grapefruit and lychees on the palate. Medium finish.

White Wine: Valminor Albariño, 2012 ($23). A light to medium bodied wine is amazing. It has some fresh grapefruit, apricot and melon on the nose. On the palate, it combines fruity flavors of apple and pear and freshness with a rounded acidity.

July 4^th is all about family and friends getting together to celebrate life and freedom. Be creative when making your burgers, choose the right wine, and above all, have fun.

Scott Richardson has been in the hotel and restaurant business for almost 30 years. His love for producing remarkable food and service evolved to his love for all things wine. Scott has worked at many prestigious locations including The Cavendish Hotel, in London England and The Grove Park Inn and Resorts in Asheville, NC. His culinary background and his love for wine pushed into the teaching profession with University of Central Florida’s Rosen School of Hospitality Management, Valencia College, Johnson and Wales University and New England Culinary Institute. If that was not enough, Scott is also a volunteer judge at several food and wine festivals in Central Florida throughout the year. Scott is currently pursuing his passion in wine by working towards his PhD in Hospitality Leadership with research in the wine tourism industry. In his spare time, Scott writes for The Park Press, his column “The Educated Palate” can be found at www.theparkpress.com. Scott can be reached at scott@theparkpress.com