Eve's Wine 101

Gregory Alonzo: Hungarian for Dessert

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There is an old Hungarian saying that if you dig a hole, hot water comes up. Throughout  the alluring city of Budapest, thermal spas abound. The Gellert Hotel supersedes all competitors. Standing majestically on the banks of the Danube and at the foot of Gellert Hill, sits the marvelous Art-Nouveau spa.
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Often proclaimed as the “world’s greatest spa,” There is little to contradict such a bold statement. With every visit to these noble baths, find myself feeling more at home and at one with this city. From the hotel’s Panorama View Restaurant, the Danube River has settled to a serene and tranquil evening calm.

“Would you stop,” the lovely young lady sitting across from me playfully scoffed. “You sound like like a commercial for the Gellert.”

Laughter and a sense of joviality set the mood for our tasting. Today, I am joined by longtime friend and fellow sommelier, Nora Haumand.

“I promise you that if tomorrow is a sunny day, we will visit the Szechenyi Baths,” I assured Nora.

A playful smile filled her face. “Ah yes, their pool is my favorite.”

“There is one fact about Budapest that you most definitely must share with our readers,” Nora’s tone was matter of fact. “The history of our name.”

Budapest is actually comprised of two cities, Buda and Pest, with the Danube River separating them. What is also quite interesting is the Roman Empire ended with the hills that surrounded Buda; while the Hunnic Empire of Atila the Hun, began on the plains of Pest.

“Gregory, you have the soul of a Hungarian,” Nora flashed me a quick wink.

“I think my Cossack friends in Ukraine would beg to differ,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “Perhaps I was a Hun in a previous life.”

“No, not a Hun,” Nora quickly broke. “Most likely a Hungarian gypsy.”

We erupted euphorically. “Complete with violin, no doubt,”I toyed playfully. “What is for dinner, I’m famished. And more importantly,” I paused for effect. “What wines have you selected?”

As our server quickly set our table, I marveled at the spectacular feast set before us. Our dinner was comprised of various traditional Hungarian dishes that one would expect from so grand a meal, and so opulent a restaurant.

“Nora,” I called for her attention. “I have heard tell that two million people dwell in Budapest, but only two-thousand live.”

Her face brightened into a smile as she poured me a glass of rose. “And let there be no doubt which category we share.”

We began our meal with the customary bowl of Gulyas soup, accompanied by a delectable array of hot peppers, fatanyeros, grilled stuffed cabbages. nokedli, small dumplings, and roasted pork, all served with a generous helping of paprika. Nora also ordered hortobagyi palcsinta, a savory crepe filled with veal and served in saffron, a particular favorite of mine. Hungarian cuisine is always accompanied by an assortment of cheeses. Our table had been graced with turo, a type of quark, juturo, ewe-cheese, trappista, a semi-hard cheese, and palpusztai, a soft cheese.

“Are you ready for dessert?” Nora smiled broadly.

“Dessert?” I queried. “I’m stuffed.

“Gregory, shame on you,” she toyed playfully. “We are here to do a tasting on dessert wines.”

At length, I looked up, gave her wink and flashed an even grin. “If I must … I guess it’s back to the salt mines.”

Hungarian dessert wines begin and end with Tokaji. For most Hungarians, Tokaji wines can only be spoken of in the superlative. Part of the success of these wines is in fact due to geography. The country’s far north region, which borders Slovakia, boasts a unique climate. Due to the protection of the nearby Zemplen mountains, the foothills are known for their long warm autumns. Completely unique to this region are the mists that come in from the Boldrog River. These mists contribute to the creation of a perfect condition for the “noble rot.” The botrytised (aszu) grapes for which this region is famous thrive until picked as late as mid-November. The next step is to store the grapes in buckets known as ‘puttonyos,’ and crush them to a paste. Varying amounts of aszu paste are then added to pomace or a wine that is made from the region’s indigenous grapes. At this point, the mixture is then left to ferment. The resulting wine is then aged in small barrels. Another uniqueness in the making of this legendary wine are the storage facilities. Typically the barrels are stored in a soft volcanic tuff, on whose walls thick blankets of fungus regulate the humidity.

Our first selection was a Pannon Tokaj Forditas 2008.

“Egeszsegedre,” Nora toasted me. “I really like this wine. It shows apricot on the nose and fruit and honey on the palate. Though sweet, there is a bit more tannic acid than other aszu wines.”

“I like the fact that the Forditas can either be drunk now or aged for another 5-7 years,” my reply was one of certainty.

“I also like that it goes well with most any desserts.”

“Like our crepes, the Gundel Palacsinta filled with nuts and chocolate sauce,” I teased.

“But of course,” Nora flashed me a wide beaming smile. “I would also serve the Forditas at 50-54 degrees Fahrenheit.
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”

Keeping with theme of Aszu wines, our next selection was a Pannon Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2004. This wine proved to be well-balanced showing lime, apricot, and botrytis on the nose. Citrus, honey, and fruity flavors on the palate. What really sparked my attention was how the flavors and fragrances of modern wine making and the traditional barrel aging are united quite elegantly. Our 2004 Pannon showed best at 50-54 degrees Fahrenheit. It can also be aged from 5-10 years.

“I knew you would favor this wine,” Nora paused to heighten my anticipation. “Not only does the wine go well with desserts and blue cheese, it also pairs nicely goose liver pate.”

Just then our waiter approached our table, and to my utter delight, he presented me with a small dish of my favorite foie gras.

Our last wine, a Pannon Tokali Aszu 6 Puttonyos 2004 a bit on the pricey side but a sheer delight to those who have imbibed and enjoyed this aromatic and intoxicating elixer. What makes this Tokaji so delectable is after pressing, the juice is fermented and aged in wooden barrels for at least two years. The resulting wine can be drunk now or aged 15-20 years.

“For me this is the dessert wine of dessert wines,” Nora’s delight was quite evident. “I would also chill it to 50-54 degrees Fahrenheit and serve it with sweets.”

I would agree that the wine is well made and I can clearly see why those who  are enchanted prefer it. However, I’m  afraid this wine is a bit too scented for my palate,” I shared my hesitation with Nora. “I also find the honey, citrus, and fruity flavors a trifle over powering.”

“Perhaps you should try it with some foie gras,” Nora chuckled. “it actually pairs quite nicely.”

“Touche,” I gave her a quick wink. “I need to walk off dinner. Can I interest you in a moonlight stroll along the Danube …”

“But that my friends is another story …”

Sommelier Gregory Alonzo on Nectar of the Sun: Unique Georgian Wines

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Striated with colored hues of magenta and amber, sunset slowly covered Tbilisi’s skyline. As the sky slowly purpled above us, Medea and I hustled to meet Shorena, our  fellow sommelier. Tonight we planned to meet in Old Town’s poplar jazz spot, Cafe Kala. Shorena had arranged for us to taste three of Georgia’s most unique wines.

“I see her,” Medea called out. “She’s sitting in the patio area.”

“It is such a lovely evening, I thought we’d sit outside.” Shorena motioned us to take our seats. “Once the band starts, we can easily here the music from here.”

To my delight, our servers immediately filled our table with eggplant, peppers, tomatoes,   stuffed mushrooms, goat cheese, lamb kabobs, and lavash bread. “A table set for a king.”

“Or a prince,” Medea said with subtle coquetry.

“A prince without a crown,” I chuckled.

“Grigol,” Shorena called for my attention. Tonight we will be tasting Saperavi, do you approve?”

Saperavi is Georgia’s hardy varietal and a staple in most Georgian blends. Translated, it’s name means ‘paint or dye.’ What makes Saperavi unique is both the skins and flesh are red in color. The best Saperavi grapes are grown in the Kakheti region of the Alazani Valley.

“Shorena, what is our first wine?”

“Pheasant’s Tears. It is a 2008 unfiltered Saperavi,” Shorena said confidently. You know the owner of the winery, correct?”

“Yes, I know both John Wurdeman and his wine maker Gela Patalishvili. They produce some interesting hand-crafted wines. They do this by following the ancient Georgian tradition of pressing the grapes and then storing them in bees-wax lined amphora pots called “kvevri,” I replied matter-of-factly.

“Grigol, do you know the tale of the Pheasant’s Tears?” Medea queried.

Before I could answer, Shorena blurted out. “In the story, a hero claims that only a wine beyond measure can make a pheasant cry tears of joy.”

“On that note,” I smiled. “Let’s drink some wine … Gaumarjos!”

On first sight, the wine is such a dark red it is called black by Georgians. Savory hints of charcoal, black pepper, smoke, black currant, and pomegranate are dominated by mulberry and plum. On the palate,  this full-bodied wine has a velvety structure with strong tannins and acidity, and a most pleasurable finish. Pheasant’s Tears is an exciting and original wine that even the most discerning of palates would enjoy. This Saperavi pairs best with roasted meats and hard cheeses. However, Georgians often prefer this wine with sheep cheese which is typically soft in the middle.

“Shorena, what is the alcohol content?”

“13 per cent. Grigol, are you ready for our next wine?”

“Of course.” I gave a nod of approval.

“Our next selection is a 2003 Saperavi from Vinoterra. The alcohol content is 13 per cent,” Shorena flashed me a wide beaming smile.

“Isn’t Vinoterra now owned by Bukhard Schuchmann? Medea queried.

“Yes, and his winemaker, Giorgi Dakishvili and I go way back. He is my friend and teacher.” A smile filled my face as I reflected on the times I raised a glass with the gentleman I consider to be Georgia’s finest winemaker.

Vinoterra Saperavi is made in the traditional Kakhetian style. Fermented for 20 days in amphora pots before transported to oak barrels for 24 months for full maturation. Finally, the wine is bottled unfiltered. There is a deep inky purple coloring to this wine. Along with complex cherry aromas, there are notes of ripe blackberries, mulberry, and a hint of mint and clay. There is a rustic side to this concentrated charmer as the silky tannins accompany a long lasting aromatic finish. Overall, this Saperavi is a deep wine rich of extract with good aging potential. This wine goes well with an assortment meats and cheeses.

Medea nodded her approval. “I understand why you admire Giorgi. He is an artist when it come to hand-crafted wines. I wish I knew his secret.”

“Love and passion for his craft,” I smiled. “Also his preference for using the best grapes from vineyards 30-50 years old.”

“Ready for our last selection?” Shorena asked with excitement.

Giving a nod of approval. “What’s the next selection?”

“A change of pace. I have selected a 2006 Mukuzani from Teliani Valley.”

“You know my next question.”

13 per cent alcohol,” Shorena chuckled.

Teliani Valley uses totally modern techniques with temperature-controlled fermentation and some aging in small oak barrels. Though their methods for making wine are quite progressive, this winery’s soul dates back 80 centuries. One tradition kept alive at Teliani Valley, all grapes are hand-picked.

So what makes Mukuzani so special and one of my personal passions? The Saperavi grapes come come from only the Right Bank of the Alazani River in Kakheti’s renown Mukzani Appellation. This is the creme de la creme of Georgia’s favorite grape varietal.

Shorena’s final selection certainly lived up to it’s reputation. The wine is dark ruby red in color. The bouquet is a smooth aroma of ripe berry, black currant, plum, and hints of oak. There is a generous mouth filling of fruit on the palate. Fleshy cherries and black plum abound.

“Followed by luscious blackberry.” Medea was quick to add. “And the slightest hint of … licorice.”

“This Mukuzani is juicy and tasty,” Shorena remarked. “And since it was aged in oak for 13 months, this adds to it’s complexity.”

“I also liked the smooth finish. Ladies, I think with the moderate tannins and acidity, this wine would pair nicely with roast beef, lamb chops, and grilled steak.”

“Barbecue veal or ham,” Medea was quick to add.

Flashing both Medea and Shorena a quick grin. “For fun, I would even pair our Mukuzani with spicy Indian dishes.

Georgian reds are definitely distinctive and delicious I thought to myself. Breaking my mood of of thought and reflection … Medea giggled playfully.

“Mmm, spicy Indian food. Little India Restaurant?”

We broke into laughter as Shorena was first to speak. “I guess we will come back for the late jazz session.”

But that my friends is another story …

Michael Perlis: Ventura County Part Three

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Cantara Cellars
www.cantaracellars.com

Winery owners Mike and Chris Brown opened their Cantara Cellars tasting room in October 2007. But, their winemaking actually started four years earlier, in the garage of their home in Moorpark, in the Cantara section of the Serenata development [after all, the name “Brown Estate” was taken. J]  Mike grew up in Lodi, and they started out with Chardonnay from his parents’ vineyard.

As I said, Cantara opened its tasting room in 2007.

The tasting room is in an industrial park in Camarillo, and the Browns still source most of their grapes from Lodi, relying greatly on the connections Mike made when he grew up in that area.

Let me digress for a moment…

I love wineries in industrial parks. Some people don’t feel they get the real wine-country experience this way. I appreciate the fact that the winery owners are putting their efforts [and money] into the wine and not into fancy architecture. I’m not saying you can’t do both, but if the winery owners have to make a choice, my bet is on the wine.

I also love Lodi. Gold Country! And some of these vines go back to the Gold Rush era. Great grapes are being grown there.

We started out with Chris at the tasting bar with the 2010 Chardonnay from a special block of the family vineyard named after Mike’s mother Ruth. This was a very rich, classically styled Chard, hard to believe it hadn’t undergone a secondary malolactic fermentation. Excellent.

I also talked Chris into opening their Albarino, which was wonderful as well, with notes of tropical fruit. Admittedly, she didn’t need much coaxing to open the bottle, and they are justifiably proud of this wine.

We were just going to start tasting the reds, when Mike popped his head out of the barrel room.  I quickly introduced myself and asked if our little group could accompany him back into the barrel room to “look around”. [Right, who “looks around” in a barrel room?] Mike was in the process of setting up for the wine club pick-up party later in the day, but graciously invited us to come back with him.

l-r Carey Babcock, Mike Brown and Karen Perlis

This is where things get fuzzy, and somewhere along the line I lost my notes. Barrel rooms can be magical places, and Mike is an awesome host. We tasted through the wines they were going to be pouring at the party, which was essentially all of their current releases, as well as tasting two 2010 Zinfandels that were still in barrels. The wines all showed really well. My favorite of the tasting were:
2009 Zinfandel, Old Vines, Mohr-Fry Ranches®, Block 817, Mokelumne River, Lodi
2009 Intrepid  (68% Syrah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc)
2009 Franknvine  (40% Cabernet Franc, 25% Syrah, 18% Zinfandel, 10% Old Vine Zinfandel, 6% Petite Sirah, and 1% Malbec)
2009 Tempranillo
2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and Petite Sirah) [Carey Babcock said: “Not your typical Cab!”]
Last, but not least…and possibly my favorite wine of the entire day was the —
2009 Petite Sirah

All wines were from Lodi grapes, except the Tempranillo had a California designation due to it also having grapes from Amador.

I definitely recommend visiting this winery.  While I don’t know if you can get back into the barrel room without a special dispensation, the selection at the tasting room bar should be more than enough to keep you satisfied.

Michael Perlis provides outsourced controller services to businesses that do not need a full-time controller. He balances this with his interest in wine: reading and writing about it and, of course, drinking it. He is still trying to figure out how to combine these two pursuits. Feel free to contact him about either at mcpfinancial@aol.com or michaelthezinfan@aol.com.

Michael Perlis Paso Robles Zinfandel Festival weekend part 2

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Our next stop was Turley Wine Cellars, where they were presenting a blending seminar. The panelists were National Sales Manager Christina Turley, Winemaker Karl Wicka and Vineyard Manager Brennan Stover, and the topic was how the various blocks of the Pesenti Vineyard in Paso Robles are blended together.

The Pesenti Vineyard was originally planted over 80 years ago, and divided into several blocks, most of which are Zinfandel, but there is also some Grenache and Carignane. We were provided samples from the 2011 vintage [still in barrel] from the four blocks that typically go into the final vineyard designated Turley Pesenti Zin [the rest usually go into the California Old Vines and Juvenile bottlings] along with a sample of the 2009 Turley Pesenti Zin and another 2011 sample labeled as a “mystery wine”. By then we had been joined by our friends Mike Ortiz and Carey Babcock, and both Carey and my wife Karen correctly identified the “mystery wine” as Carignane.

A robust discussion ensued of the various components that go into determining what impacts the various blocks, much of which was admittedly over this Wine 101er’s head. But, the end result is that the final blend is what tastes best to the Turley team.

Pesenti

Pesenti

We had one last stop before the big event that evening – Epoch.

I’ve written about Epoch Estate Wines before. Their wines are still being made at Denner, and that is where we first tasted them, with Epoch’s tasting room manager [of the not yet opened tasting room] Kristen Carrillo. We subsequently met up with Kristen again after Epoch opened their tasting room in a temporary building at the old York Mountain winery property, which is owned by Epoch. This last visit, we did not see Kristen, which was sad for us but good for her as she is now Epoch’s Director of Sales and Marketing. She left us in good hands with her replacement Christina Chiavoni, as we tasted through their excellent lineup of mostly Rhone-based wines and their Zinfandel, I was reminded that this was one of the better choices I had made in my wine decisions, as Epoch’s wines are virtually impossible to find outside the tasting room and mailing list, and they are sooooo good. I also learned that they are planning to renovate the old York Mountain tasting room and move the Epoch tasting room into the main building.

After a little rest back at our room at the La Quinta, we were ready for the main event… (See part 3 of Mike’s story on April 28.
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Michael Perlis provides outsourced controller services to businesses that do not need a full-time controller. He balances this with his interest in wine: reading and writing about it and, of course, drinking it. He is still trying to figure out how to combine these two pursuits. Feel free to contact him about either at mcpfinancial@aol.com or michaelthezinfan@aol.com

Michael Perlis’ Take on Wine Bargains

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My esteemed editor Eve has recently written a couple of columns reviewing books about bargain wines – A Toast to Bargain Wines by George M. Taber and Unquenchable by Natalie MacLean.

Some time ago, I wrote a column about finding deals on wine, and with the economy still showing little sign of improving, the timing seems right to revisit this topic.

Staff Writer Michael Perlis

Now, I am in no way “dissing” the approach of trying any of the wines recommended in the above books. Lord knows I spent many hours [and dollars] in the past scouring the shelves of Trader Joe’s and Cost Plus World Market for new wines to try [and I still think that Bogle Vineyards makes some of the best $10 wine out there]. And these inexpensive wines provide a great opportunity to taste as many wine varieties as possible.

But ultimately, in order to experience high-quality wines, one has to “pay up”. Granted, some wines are exorbitantly priced, and the cost to produce some of them is not all that goes into the pricing model, but good wine is expensive to produce: the cost of the grapes, barrels, winemaking equipment, bottles, the winemaker and assistants, etc. go into the mix, as well as the cost of operating the winery as a business. And, like any product, the laws of supply and demand come into play.

Still, there are ways to get some of these wines at reduced prices.

One of the best ways that come to mind would be to visit the many websites that offer close-out deals. Wines offered on these sites are often highly rated, but are discounted to make way for new vintages or just to get the wine more exposure to the public. My favorite sites are:
Winewoot.com
Cellarthief.com
Winestillsoldout.com

Other sites that I know of but have not tried:
Lot18.com
Cinderellawine.com
Invino.com
Thewinespies.com

Retailers often offer great deals on closeouts as well. I tend to skip the chain operations and deal with independents. Sign up for their email newsletters to be notified of their offerings. I highly recommend Wine Exchange [winex.com] in Orange County, but other well known ones are:
Duke of Bourbon [dukeofbourbon.com]
Woodland Hills Wine Company [whwc.com]
Wade Wines [wadewines.com]

And don’t forget your local wine shop. They need your business as well, and may be willing to offer you discounts for quantity purchases as well as moving prior vintages.

Similarly, wineries often offer their customers special deals who buy direct from them, again especially if you’re willing to buy multiple bottles or they need to close out the previous year’s releases. Get on the email list for your favorite wineries and see what they offer.

As in all transactions, caveat emptor. Be sure the supplier is reputable and that the discount offered is valid.  [30% off “suggested retail” may not be a great deal compared to what other stores may offer the wine at].  And if reviews and/or scores are posted, try to verify the accuracy.

But it is definitely possible to get great deals on great wine without having to drink the cheap stuff.

Michael Perlis provides outsourced controller services to businesses that do not need a full-time controller. He balances this with his interest in wine: reading and writing about it and, of course, drinking it. He is still trying to figure out how to combine these two pursuits. Feel free to contact him about either at mcpfinancial@aol.com or michaelthezinfan@aol.com.

Michael Perlis Discovers: Silenus Vintners and a really big…tasting glass?

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Silenus Vintners
www.silenusvintners.com

Some time ago, we attended a tasting in Santa Monica. The tasting was put on by Learn About Wine (www.learnaboutwine.com) at Wilshire Restaurant, with a focus on California’s rising stars.

One of the wineries we enjoyed there was Poem Cellars, and I stayed in touch with co-owner Jeff Durham. When I told him we were planning a visit to Napa, he suggested we visit Silenus Vintners, which is where the Poem Cellars wines are made.

Poem Cellars is now called Gentleman Farmer, but the wines are still made at Silenus Vintners.

Silenus tasting room manager Scott Turnnidge explained that actually 19 wineries make their wines at Silenus, with 11 of them represented in the tasting room. Scott said that Silenus is a true “multiple winery facility”, with Silenus providing the facilities and the equipment but each winery is responsible for the production of its own wine, versus a “custom crush facility” where the facility staff typically makes the wine for the winery owners.

At any given time, 13 wines are being poured in the gorgeous Silenus tasting room, with a rotation system in place to showcase fairly all the wineries that have their wine in the tasting room.
The day I visited, I tasted the following wines:

Mario Bazan Cellars
2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley)
100 Cases, Winemaker: Victoria Coleman

Modus Operandi Cellars
2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford)
200 Cases, Winemaker: Jason Moore

Matthiasson Family Vineyards
2010 White Wine (Napa Valley)
(A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Ribolla Gialla, Semillon and Tocai Friulano)
365 Cases, Winemaker: Steve Matthiasson

Cielo Malibu Estate Vineyards
2010 Woodstock “Honey Pie” (California)
(A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat)
450 Cases, Winemaker: Jason Moore

Coleman Nicole Wines
2008 Pinot Noir (Champlain Creek)
209 Cases, Winemaker: Jason Moore

Due Vigne di Famiglia
2007 Dolcetto (El Dorado)
225 Cases, Winemaker: Ken Musso

Modus Operandi Cellars
2008 Vicarious Red Blend (Napa Valley)
(From grapes grown in the Napa Valley and Sierra Foothills. Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, also includes Syrah, Merlot, and Petite Sirah.)
300 Cases, Winemaker: Jason Moore

Silenus Winery
2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)
50 Cases, Winemaker: Brad Smith

Cielo Malibu Estate Vineyards
2009 Woodstock “Purple Haze” (Russian River Valley)
(Syrah)
225 Cases, Winemaker: Jason Moore

Gentleman Farmer
2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)
325 Cases, Winemaker: Jason Moore

I enjoyed all the wines I tasted, but my two favorites were the “Vicarious” and the “Purple Haze”. Not surprisingly, given the Syrah. Note that they were both made by Jason Moore. I would say that he is a winemaker to watch. In addition, note that the “Purple Haze” is from Cielo Malibu Estate Vineyards, which means their wines are also available at their tasting room in Southern California.

Mike, trying to hide behind his Sangio

Scott also gave me a tour of the property, showing me the tanks, barrels, presses, etc. While we were walking around, we bumped into renowned winemaker John Gibson, who was making Sangiovese for his current winery project Four Winds Cellars. I commented that I hadn’t run into too many California Sangioveses that I really enjoyed, so he promptly had me sample his. Well, if it stays as tasty as it was from the barrel, I think I’ve found my Sangio!

In Greek mythology, Silenus was the teacher and companion of the wine-god Dionysus. Well, the “teacher” role certainly applied here, as I left Silenus with a new appreciation of Napa wines and greatly looking forward to what the rest of my visit would bring.

Michael Perlis provides outsourced controller services to businesses that do not need a full-time controller. He balances this with his interest in wine: reading and writing about it and, of course, drinking it. He is still trying to figure out how to combine these two pursuits. Feel free to contact him about either at mcpfinancial@aol.com or michaelthezinfan@aol.com.

Perlis Discovers: The Stars of California

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Recently, I had the opportunity to attend the Stars of California event presented by Learn About Wine. According to the invitation, the purpose of this event was to focus on “Newer or smaller brands that will make the difference in the future of wine in your stores, wine lists, and events.”

The event was held on the patio of Wilshire Restaurant in Santa Monica.

The wines to be poured, per the invitation, were:

“Casey Flat Ranch, St. Helena”
Open Range Sauvignon Blanc, 2009
Open Range Red, Capay Valley, 2007

“Center of Effort, Arroyo Grande”
Pinot Noir, Edna Valley, 2008
Chardonnay, Edna Valley, 2008
Chardonnay, Edna Valley, 2008
Pinot Noir, Edna Valley, 2009

“Eden Canyon Vineyards, Paso Robles”
Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, 2008

“Eric Kent Wine Cellars, Santa Rosa”
Chardonnay “Sangiacomo Green Acres Hill”,  Sonoma, 2009
Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2009
Pinot Noir “Small Town”, Sonoma Coast, 2009
Syrah “Kalen’s Big Boy Blend”, Sonoma County, 2008
Syrah Dry Stack Vineyard, Bennett Valley, 2008
Saporo Family, Chardonnay, Sonoma, 2009
Saporo Family, Pinot Noir, Sonoma, 2009

“Freestone Vineyards,  Sonoma Coast”
2008 Fogdog Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
2008 Fogdog Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
2008 Freestone Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
2007 Freestone Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast

“Flying Goat Cellars, Lompoc”
Bubbles Rose Sparkling Wine, Santa Maria Valley, 2009
Pinot Gris, Santa Maria Valley, 2010
Pinot Noir Salisbury Vineyard, 2007
Pinot Noir Clone 2A, Rio Vista Vineyard, 2007
Pinot Noir, Rancho Santa Rosa, 2007

“Hill Family, Napa Valley”
Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 2010
Barrel Blend, 2008
Syrah, Clarke Vineyard, 2009

“Inception, Santa Barbara County”
Chardonnay, Santa Barbara, 2009
Viognier, Santa Barbara, 2010
Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 2009
Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, 2009
Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, 2009

“Lang and Reed, St. Helena”
Cabernet Franc, North Coast, 2009
Cabernet Franc, Two-Fourteen, Napa Valley, 2008
Red Wine, RIGHT BANK, Napa Valley, 2005

“Lorenza!, Napa Valley”
Rose, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan, California, 2010

“Mauritson Wines, Dry Creek Valley”
Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek, 2010
Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, 2008
Zinfandel, Dry Creek, 2009
Rockpile ‘Madrone Spring’ Petite Sirah, 2008
Rockpile ‘Bucks Pasture’ Red Wine, 2007
Rockpile ‘Independence’ Port, 2008

“Mercy Vineyards, Arroyo Seco”
Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco, 2009
Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco, 2008
Chardonnay, Griva Vineyard, 2009
Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco, 2008
Pinot Noir, Zabala Vineyard, 2009
Syrah, Zabala Vineyard, 2008

“Palmina Wines, Santa Barbara County”
Tocai Friulano, Santa Barbara County, Honea Vineyard, 2010
Arneis, Santa Barbara County, Honea Vineyard, 2009
Dolcetto, Santa Barbara County, 2009

“Poem Cellars, Napa Valley”
Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2009, Barrel Sample

“Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley”
Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Barbara County, 2010
Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, 2009
Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, 2009

“Rarecat Wines, Rutherford”
Lionheart Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 2009
Charles Heintz Chardonnay, Russian River, 2009

“Silver Wines, Santa Barbara”
Chardonnay, White Hawk Vineyard, 2009
Grenache Blanc,Santa Barbara, 2009
Pinot Noir Coteau Palmer, Premier Vineyard, 2008
Saviezza, (90% Sangiovese, 5% Cab Franc, 5% Cab Sauv), Santa Barbara 2008
Trentotto File, White Hawk Vineyard (98% Syrah, 2% Viognier), 2008

“Skinner Vineyards, Sierra Foothills”
Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, “Seven Generations”, El Dorado
Grenache, El Dorado, 2009
“Eighteen Sixty-One”, El Dorado,  2008
Syrah, El Dorado, 2007

“Starlite Vineyards, Sonoma County”
Viognier, Sonoma County, 2010
Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, 2007
Zinfandel, Alexander Valley, 2006

There were only a few wineries on this list that I had tried before, so I was very excited to be at this tasting to experience some new wines and wineries. Everything I tasted was of very high quality, but two wineries really stood out for me: Rarecat Wines and Hill Family.

“Rarecat Wines, Rutherford”
Lionheart Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 2009
Charles Heintz Chardonnay, Russian River, 2009

Both of these wines showed incredible elegance, delicious fruit and long finishes. I loved the “mouthfeel” of these wines, especially the velvety Chardonnay.

Excellent wines!

“Hill Family, Napa Valley”
Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 2010
Barrel Blend, 2008
Syrah, Clarke Vineyard, 2009

We started the tasting event with this Sauvignon Blanc, and knew right away we were going to be enjoying ourselves. The Barrel Blend was very tasty and, at , an incredible value for a Napa wine.

And the Clarke Vineyard Syrah was my favorite wine of the day.

Michael Perlis provides outsourced controller services to businesses that do not need a full-time controller. He balances this with his interest in wine: reading and writing about it and, of course, drinking it. He is still trying to figure out how to combine these two pursuits. Feel free to contact him about either at mcpfinancial@aol.com or michaelthezinfan@aol.com.

Underground Eberle Tour

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What a treat to tour caves at least at one winery in Paso Robles last week.  Got us out of the rain, AND SNOW, and allowed us to imagine that we were dining at an exclusive candlelit wine dinner or an intimate wedding.  Rows seemed endless, barrels calling out to us with their vintage years and types of oak, the perfect place to start a day of wine tasting.  And our host?  The winemaker at Eberle Winery: Ben Mayo.
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“Here at Eberle we are ‘own-rooted’ as opposed to using root stalk.  We also focus more on quality and less on production.  I look over 19 vineyards – in all directions – amounting to 3 tons per acre,” Ben began. “Then we sample the grapes that we produce ourselves –  not grape selections from farmers, but our own.  It’s very hands-on for the three of us: me, my assistant and our cellar rat.”
As Ben spoke he led us down below the tasting room, first to the winemaking area where some equipment – that is used outside – had to be covered up to protect it from the weather.  Inside we saw the usual suspects: Gleaming stainless steel tanks.
But then he led us a little deeper.  Into the caves they had built to house the bazillions of wine aging in oak barrels.  I wished and wished that he had a wine thief handy for an impromptu barrel tasting, but alas, it was my first winery of the day, and I was too shy to ask!
No matter, after we found our way out of the caves, Ben led us back to the tasting room.  We had about  a dozen, and these are the ones I could recall:
2009 Viognier Mill Road Vineyard
The colors and aromatics from the 2009 vintage are exceptional. A cold, dry winter led to a normal bud-break in March, with bloom and fruit set following shortly
thereafter. During the summer, tight clusters formed with small and even berry sizing. Canopy development was ample, protecting the clusters from sunburn
throughout the summer season. A heat spike in early September brought fruit into the perfect physiological ripeness, readying the clusters for harvest.  The 2009 vintage is the result of a stellar growing and ripening season.These wines are remarkably well-balanced, displaying concentrated fruit, intense flavor profiles and vivid color extraction.  One of the best vintages from the Paso Robles Appellation yet!
Eve: Floral aromas, as well as some grass and lemon, the taste had a nice honey against the acid, nice long finish.
2008 Cotes-du-Robles Blanc (We had 07 too but not the white – nice!)
The 2008 growing season was challenging to say the least. A cool and relatively dry winter led to bud break in mid-March. An unexpected frost in late spring followed by high winds caused “shatter”resulting in smaller berries and lighter yields. Warm temperatures during the summer with cool evenings brought along veraison at the normally expected time frame of mid-July. However, the latter part of September and early October brought cooler than normal conditions, slowing down ripening of the berries, while allowing more hang time on the vines. The 2008 growing season was challenging to say the least, but the result of this vintage are
wines that display well developed flavor profiles with balanced acidity.
Eve: Sweet yet tangy with some acid and a nice finish.
07 Sangiovese
The 2007 growing season while unique, has turned out to bean exceptional vintage for the Paso Robles wine growing region. Below average rain fall in the winter with warmer than normal temps encouraged an early bud break in the spring. Warm days and cool nights throughout summer brought early season varietals in at normal harvest times. However, a drop in temperature in late September delayed harvest for mid to late season varietals, increasing hang time and allowing fruit to come to the perfect flavor maturity. Overall, while crop yields were lighter for 2007, the result was a well-balanced, high quality vintage that displays concentrated fruit, intense flavor profiles and vivid color extraction.
Eve: Nice mushroom aroma and ripe black fruit taste.  My notes are falling away here, palate fatigue so soon?  Say it isn’t so!

2007 Zinfandel, Steinbeck/Wine Bush

Eberle 2007 Zinfandel showcases two of Paso Robles finest Zinfandel vineyards, the reputable Steinbeck Vineyard and the Wine-Bush Vineyard.  The Steinbeck Vineyard contributes layers of sweet briar fruit with hints of earth and minerality, while the Wine Bush Vineyard contributes depth of color and jammy flavors of ripe blackberry, red raspberry with a peppery finish. 

Eve: Very traditional Zin nose and a nice balance.  All in my party agreed it was the best we tasted ! 

08 Syrah Steinbeck
The 2008 growing season was challenging to say the least. A cool and relatively dry winter led to bud break in mid-March. An unexpected frost in late Spring followed by high winds caused “shatter”resulting in smaller berries and lighter yields. Warm  temperatures during the summer with cool evenings brought along verasion at the normally expected time frame of mid-July. However, the latter part of Fall, brought cooler than normal conditions, slowing down ripening of berries but allowing more hang time on the vines. While 2008 was a challenging year, the resulting vintage displays well developed flavor profiles with adequate tannins and balanced acidity.
Eve: Some grass, gaminess, nice dry finish.
03 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
The growing season for 2003 began with a cool and wet spring, but warmed up mid-summer. A heat spell lasted through the months of May and June, which created some set and bloom issues. The remainder of the ripening season held ideal temperatures with warm days and cool nights. Although overall yields from harvest were lower from the smaller fruit clusters produced, quality of the berries was exceptional.
Eve: Exceptional. White pepper, perfect jam qualities and a nice, long, finish.  Ben said that 2010 will also be a good Cabernet year for Eberle as their Cabs, “age beautifully.”  (Full disclosure, I paid for the Zins.)