Eve's Wine 101

Gregory Alonzo: Champagne Stemware: Flutes, Tulips, Coups, and Marie Antoinette’s Breasts

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“The weather outside is frightful, but inside it’s so delightful,” oops, that’s been done before. Speaking of having been done before, I was going to write an article on wine glasses. However, I defer to my friend, and colleague, Rusty Sly. He has a must read  article in our archives entitled, “A Glass is a Glass … Or is It?” Today we will review the appropriate stemware when drinking my favorite wine, champagne.

From my 5th floor pied-a-terre, I have a wonderful view of the city of Kyiv.  The winter snows are alabaster white while striated with gold and magenta hues from the setting sun. The sensation is magical, and transcends the soul to a simpler and more peaceful time. My long time friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko, and I have concluded that it is too cold to drink anything but champagne.

Our selection is a champagne that I have not reviewed since we began this series. Pommery is definitely one of mine and Elena’s favorites. What sets this premier champagne house apart, is not only the cultivation of some of the finest grapes, arguably the best vintners, it is the procurement of a network of crayeres. What are crayeres? Located in France, this is a subterranean limestone-chalk series of networks built under Reims. The cayeres date back to the Romans during their occupation of Gaul. It is in these legendary caverns that the most remarkable vintages of Pommery gained their distinct qualities. Pommery notably stores more than 20 million bottles to maturity, some 100 feet below the surface. Another characteristic of the fabled champagne house is their belief that a constant temperature of 12.222 degrees Fahrenheit is the perfect  temperature to store the wine of “kings and lovers.”

What then is the most appropriate way to serve so delectable a wine? It has become  popular to serve champagne in a tall narrow glass known as a flute. This design is of the utmost importance. The stem allows the drinker to hold the glass so that the natural warmth of the hand, does not affect the wine’s temperature.

The bowl of the flute is of equal importance. It should be long and narrow and it’s purpose is to retain champagne’s signature bubbles. To prevent the loss of carbonation, the opening is smaller than is typical of a white wine glass. The popularity of today’s dryer champagnes is also a factor. The flute perfectly dispels the appropriate amount of fragrance, while best maintaining the wine’s natural carbonation.

Since Champagne is a wine, it is often served in a white wine glass. One school of thought is that the “tulip” or “belly” style glass, permits the drinker to enjoy more of the wine’s aroma than is possible with the flute. These connoisseurs feel that the since the tulip glass has a broader mid-section, yet with a narrow opening, it thereby  prevents a brisk loss of carbonation. With the tulip glass, it is believed that the drinker is permitted to enjoy the champagne to it’s fullest extent.

The coupe is interesting not only in shape, but the myths that surround this style of champagne glass. To begin with, the coupe is a shallow-broad-bowled stemmed glass. Ever popular at wedding receptions, the coupe is often stacked in layers building a champagne tower. The tales surrounding the coupe are endless. Many believe that the design was modeled on the breast of Marie Antoinette, while others claim it folly to believe such a myth. They believe the glass was actually designed on the breast of Josephine de Beauharnais, the first wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. Finally, other disclaimers dispel these fallacies and believe the the coupe style glass was from the breast of Madame de Pompadour, who was affectionately known as “The coupe de champagne.
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So who’s breast was actually used in the creation of this fabled glass? No one knows for sure if a woman’s breast was used at all. One fact is certain. The coupe glass was designed in England in 1663, and it was designed especially for champagne. During this period, champagnes were much sweeter. Perhaps the broad open surface was thought to enhance the wine’s fragrance.

The 1930s were the heyday of the coupe. Made famous by Chicago’s famed Stork Club, the coupe enjoyed unrivaled popularity through the 1960s.

“I must admit,” Elena’s eyes crinkled softly. I honestly thought the coupe was named for Madame Pompadour.”

“If anyone deserves a champagne glass made in their honor,” I paused for effect. “It is Madame Pommery.”

“She is responsible in part, for recognizing the potential popularity for dryer champagnes,” Elena was quick to agree. “We should design a glass and call it … ”

“The Queen of Fizz,” I broke into laughter.

“Grisha, stop playing and let’s drink some champagne,” Elena’s tone was filled with anticipation.

“But of course,” I flashed her an even smile. “We must not let these strawberries go to waste.”

“Will you do the honors of making a toast?” Elena queried.

“Za tse momen ya kri shi ne nastav, To this moment and the moment yet to come,” I gave her an almost suggestive wink.

Elena has a penchant for Pommery Champagnes. She decided on a 1999 Pommery Cuvee Louise. It is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. This is an alluring wine whose natural elegance will seduce you. True to its name, I found our wine quite delicate, almost to the point of being wispy. Overall a lovely champagne and definitely worth the $125 price tag.

“I especially like the soft aromas on the nose,There is a certain freshness about our Cuvee Louise,” Elena’s expression was one of sheer delight.”

I nodded in agreement. “I like the wine’s silkiness on my palate,” I paused to collect my thoughts.
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“Our Cuvee Louise is also full and fruity, as well as balanced.”

“I am pleased that you enjoyed my selection,” Elena’s face filled with a wide beaming smile. “Grisha, I just realized that we failed to mention some of the innovations and novelties in stemware.”

“But that my friends is another story …”

Reyes Winery UPCOMING EVENTS for February 2013

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Saturday February 2 and Sunday February 3, 2013, 11am-4pm. Truffles and Toffee Event. We will have Vladimir Litt from Truffles and Toffee http://www.trufflesntoffee.com sampling and selling his delectable chocolates. At the same time we will have our Agua Dulce Delight and White Delight Ports available in gift baskets for Valentine’s Day with Reyes Winery Glasses.

Tour and Tasting Special $22 per person includes, tasting flight of 7 wines to pair with chocolates, a Reyes Winery Glass, and a Winery tour at 2pm.  Please purchase tickets in our tasting room on online at http://reyeswinery.com/events.

Friday February 8, 2013 11am-5pm. Starting this date, we will now be open on Fridays. Please join us today for a sale of our Reyes Muscat 2011, which has been replaced by our “SOLD OUT” 2010 Reyes Muscat. Each bottle will be on sale for this day only for $11 each.

Thursday February 14, 2013. We will be open from 11am-5pm. Reyes Winery will have a sale today.

Friday February 15, 2013, 11am-5pm. Last chance to purchase Reyes Winery’s Rosa’s Choice Rose’. $30.00 per person includes tasting flight of 5 wines in the tasting room and 2 wines in the barrel room, a bottle of Rosa’s Choice Rose’ 2009, and a Winery & gallery tour at 1pm or 3pm. Additional bottles are available for $18.00 each.  Please purchase tickets in our tasting room or on online starting Monday January 28, 2013.

Sunday February 24, 2013 from 12pm to 4pm. Unveiling of Robert Reyes’ newest painting; which will appear on the label of our upcoming release of Quinn’s Zin. $30.00 per person includes tasting flight of 5 wines in the tasting room and 2 wines in the barrel room, a bottle of Reyes Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, and a Winery & gallery tour at 1pm or 3pm. Please purchase tickets in our tasting room on online at http://reyeswinery.com/events.

Thursday February 28, 2013, 5pm-8pm. Ladies night out. $20 per person includes 2 glasses of wine and hors d’oeuvres on our North Terrace.  Come mingle with other ladies and enjoy some delicious appetizers and talk about wine, weather, or anything wonderful!  Please purchase tickets in our tasting room on online at http://www.reyeswinery.com/events.

Saturday March 2, 2013, 2pm-6pm. Santa Clarita WineFest. Join us at the Bridgeport Marketplace 24045 Newhall Ranch Road Valencia, CA for a day of food and wine with over 300 wines, brews and spirits being poured plus exciting and unique lifestyle exhibitors. This year will once again benefit the Michael Hoefflin Foundation, which offers hope, help and healing for Children’s Cancer. VIP early entrance at 1pm which also includes priority parking, VIP Fest Tote, and more. For more info and tickets, visit: www.santaclaritawinefest.com

1st Annual Sierra Pelona Valley Wine Festival Promises the Perfect Combination of Wine, Food, Music, Art & Philanthropy

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JANUARY 17, 2013 (Los Angeles, CA) – Sierra Pelona Valley Vintners Association will hold its 1st Annual Sierra Pelona Valley Wine Festival on Saturday, January 26, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Reyes Winery in Agua Dulce.  Proceeds from the festival will benefit the Henry Mayo Newhall Memorial Hospital*. Guests will receive a complimentary commemorative tasting glass and plate, a specialty gift bag, and free parking.  They will also enjoy a “ticketless” wine tasting and gourmet fancy food samplings — all paired perfectly with a day full of live entertainment, art, and activities including:

•                Wine, Beer and Spirits Tastings from, among others: Agua Dulce Winery, Alonso Family Vineyards, Antelope Valley Winery, Bacelar Wines, Coruce Vineyards, Chavez Vineyards, Diosa Tequila, Donna Harris Wine Biz, High Desert Cellars, Mike Rinn Wines, Mascari Vineyard in Bouquet Canyon, Montalvo Tequila,  Naked Rebel Winery, Oreana Winery, Pulchella Winery, Reyes Winery, Steve Hemmert Vineyards, Two Hearts Vineyards, Vampire Winery, Winehouse Vineyards, 88 Tequila Co.

•                Gourmet Bites from: California Bakery, Cheers At All Corked Up, Gourmet Blends, Dove Chocolate Discoveries, Gourmet Tamale Factory, Le Chene French Cuisine, Naked Juice, Natcheryl Organic Café,   Pinch Me Seasonings, PK’s Chocolates,  Roman Holiday Wine Lounge, Salt Creek Grille Catering,  Truffles n Toffee, The Whole Wheatery.

•               An Early Morning Vineyard Hike, an optional activity with the purchase of the Hike & Wine Festival Pass. The hike will begin at Reyes Winery, from 8:00 a.m. to 10:00 a.m. Winemaker Robert Reyes will lead the ascent into the Sierra Pelona Foothills to nearly 4,000 feet and across the scenic ridge overlooking the valley and vineyards.  Hikers will learn about the vineyards and terroir on the 2-hour advanced level trail or they can take the 1.5-hour intermediate level route and afterwards enjoy breakfast at the Sweetwater Café. (Cost of breakfast not included in pass).

•               VIP Treatment, an exclusive opportunity with purchase of a VIP Pass, for a private Winemaker’s tour and barrel tasting including early entrance at 11 a.m.; V.I.P. lounge reserve wine tasting paired with gourmet lunch; plus all general admission ticket benefits. (Only a limited amount of VIP passes are available).

•                Art Exhibit featuring Lalo Garcia, Rosa Alvarez, Luis Villanueva, and Ricardo Ortega.  Guests will experience a new expression for sacred spaces representing ethnic, cultural, and religious diversity as expressed by some of LA’s most esteemed Latin American artists.

Also, a classical art exhibit will feature the paintings of Virginia Miranda and her art students, and the paintings of Winemaker Robert Reyes.

•                Live Music from the bands: R-Buckle-Road ,  Sierra Highway Music Band, and Still Moving Project.

•                Silent Auction and Raffle items will include Wine & Dine gift certificates; a variety of other wines, gift packages, artwork, certificates; and many more exciting items from the event’s sponsors*.

*Sponsors for the event include: Galpin Motors, Union Bank of California, Southern California Edison, Golf Cars LA, All American Container, Power Media Group, Adam and Al Gottfried of Tee It Up Radio Network INC, Santa Clarita Valley TV, The Whole Wheatery, Country Journal, Mail America,  Steve’s Valencia Florist, Robinson Ranch Golf Club, Newhall Ice Co., Antelope Valley Winery, and Reyes Winery.

To purchase tickets for the First Annual Sierra Pelona Valley Wine Festival, please visit reyeswinery.com/spv-winefestival. Prepaid general admission tickets are $65.00 and $75.00 at the door. Exclusive V.I.P. Access Event Passes will be available online at $90.00 until January 20. After January 20, V.I.P. passes will return to their original price of $100.00. Combination Vineyard Hike & Event Pass is an all-day pass offered at $100/person and spaces are limited.

Reyes Winery is located at 10262 Sierra Highway in Agua Dulce, CA 91390. For directions, visit http://goo.gl/maps/nZG97

About the Sierra Pelona Valley Viticultural Area of California

In the Sierra Pelona Mountains of the Southern California just 30 miles north of downtown Los Angeles lies California’s most recently established American Viticultural Area, the Sierra Pelona Valley AVA. The untouched natural beauty provides the perfect environment for burgeoning vineyards, boutique wineries and outdoor enthusiasts. Visitors can enjoy a day of discovery and relaxation exploring the area’s fine wineries and tasting rooms. For information on how to make the most of your time in Sierra Pelona Valley Wine Country, join the Sierra Pelona Valley Vintner’s on Facebook. And follow on Twitter at https://twitter.com/ReyesWinery

PART TWO: The One-Day Turn-Around Napa Trip: AKA Eve Sort Grapes, Plays with Pups and Spends Night in Circa 1920 Cottage

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Del Dotto

Teaser: “Look, it’s grape mistletoe!”

Gerard Zanzonico and wine grape mistletoe

Del Dotto winemaker Gerard Zanzonico had commented on my Facebook when I mentioned I had a short trip planned to Napa.  One of the things I like about Gerard, besides his wine, is his affability.  He is one of the easiest people to approach and talk to.  He is very quick-witted and I’ve never seen him get upset over anything.  He rolls with the punches.  It was funny to me because the winery tasting, in all its grandeur, is home to him, and he makes it that way for his guests as well.

Anyway, he made time for me to stop by right in the middle of harvest.  He had jokingly suggested that I help sort grapes…and I took him up on it.  Rubber gloves on – check, wedging my tall body between others – check, fanning my fingers over the grapes to pluck out stems and leaves – check, getting the teenager to do it for five minutes – check mate.

After that Gerard pulled out a wine glass and prompted me to taste juice straight from the stainless steel tanks, aged from a few weeks to a few months.  They were so sweet and tangy I could really appreciate what he did to turn it all into wine.

We also looked over some of the grapes, and that’s when he jokingly made the remark about grapes being mistletoe for wine lovers.  He looked like Bacchus holding a cluster of grapes over his head.  I think I might have to try that at home.

Once Samantha left, Gerard took me inside the winery for a few tastes of some newer wines I hadn’t had during my earlier visit this past year.  I wished I had taken the time for notes but I just didn’t – I recall having a new Howell Mountain, Ca’Nani Vineyard and Villa Del Lago.  Loved them all.

From http://www.deldottovineyards.com

Located in the beautiful Napa Valley, Del Dotto Vineyards is a family-owned winery which focuses on small production, premium wines. Dave Del Dotto has spent the last 20 years acquiring vineyards in some of the top American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) including Rutherford, Oakville, St. Helena, Spring Mountain, Howell Mountain, and Sonoma Coast. Currently, we produce Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Sauvignon Blanc from our Napa Valley vineyards.  Also in production are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and limited amounts of Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc from our Cinghiale Vineyard in the King’s Ridge region on the Sonoma Coast…

Oakville Grocery

Teaser: Ch-ch-ch-changes.

Oakville Grocery has always been the place to stop to order a sandwich, get some munchies and grab something to drink.  Uber-busy all of the time, but worth it.  We often took our food to a winery’s picnic area, or, if too hungry, tore into our sandwiches right in the parking lot.

When we were there earlier this year we noticed that the place looked like it had been burnt down.  We learned that they were remodeling.  Low and behold, the new larger store had more food, more checkout counters and a beautiful outdoor fruit stand.  No more eating in the parking lot, there were tons of tables and chairs.  In the future I’m told that they will have a wine tasting bar…

From http://www.oakvillegrocery.com

Oakville Grocery – founded in 1881 – is the oldest continually operating grocery store in California. Since it’s opening, Oakville Grocery has been a destination for locals and visitors alike. With our renovation, we have reconnected to our California roots, offering a highly curated selection of the best products from farmers, artisans and purveyors in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys.  Local food from local purveyors, since 1881.

Highway 29 verses the Silverado Trail

Teaser: Can you say “FOG?” or “Where is the bridge?”  I did.

I haven’t been to Napa on a Saturday in years.  I like to go midweek and even then I only travel on the Silverado Trail.  On this trip, I made my way from 29 to Silverado via Zinfandel Lane.  I love that road not only because I’m familiar with it, but because I get a glance at the Shady Oaks Country Inn.  It was the first place that I remember staying in with my husband.  We loved the warm coziness of it, the daily wine tasting and the hearty Eggs Benedict breakfast we had before setting out for a serious day of winery visits.

On this trip, I only used 29 when it was time to leave.  But driving out of Calistoga at 5 a.m. to get to the Oakland airport was an experience I hope to never duplicate.  My teen, asleep in the seat next to me, couldn’t help me navigate through the FOG.  I tried to tailgate the few other cars but they took off on me.  Here I had figured I’d be able to at least SEE all of the wineries that I hadn’t had time to visit, but it was impossible.  By the time I got to the bridge in Oakland I was so freaked out that I stayed in the center lane as I was driving through the clouds.  Or so I thought.

Next time, Ed drives, we go during the week, we visit the same places and many more.  But, it was an experience, as is always the case in a trip to wine country.

Michael Perlis: Corkage Revisited

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Eve’s recent survey of local restaurants’ corkage policies, along with some incidents that I have witnessed, have caused me to revisit a topic I wrote about some time ago.

Why do you like to bring your own wine to restaurants? I know why I do: Over the years, I have put a lot of time and effort into accumulating wines that I really want to drink, wines that I have selected based on my own palate and preferences. Truth be told, if I couldn’t bring my own wine to restaurants, I would just eat out less often.

Contributing Editor Michael Perlis

But, BYOB [bring your own bottle] is a privilege, not a right. And it is something I have learned to appreciate even more after our visit to Boston, as BYOB is apparently not generally allowed in Massachusetts. Please remember that a restaurant, like any other business, needs to be profitable to survive. Restaurant owners have to constantly look at their costs and develop prices and policies accordingly, always having to walk a fine line to keep customers coming back.

Corkage charges can vary. Sometimes there is no charge, but a typical fee can run in a range from $5 to $25 per bottle. [The last time I checked, the French Laundry in Yountville charges a whopping $75!] Restaurant owners need to recover at least some of their costs for glassware, service, cleanup, and possibly lost profits on wine not purchased at the restaurant.

Venues that provide entertainment face an additional dilemma. Patrons often tend to “camp out”,  sometimes for several hours, so table turnover is very low. Rather than being able to serve multiple meals at one table, only one dinner service ends up happening, with a concomitant loss in revenue, while the entertainment continues through the evening, usually at no cost to the customer but at significant cost to the restaurant owner. Many places that provide entertainment don’t allow outside alcohol, so special appreciation should be shown to those that do.

Some BYOB etiquette:

Call in advance to determine the restaurant’s corkage policy.

Try to bring a bottle that is not on the wine list. In fact, some restaurants will refuse to open an outside bottle that they already carry, or they might charge an extra fee on top of their normal corkage.

Offer a taste of the wine to the restaurant owner. After all, supposedly you are bringing in a bottle that the restaurant does not carry, so the proprietor may not have had an opportunity to try the particular wine. We have offered samples to our servers also, but you should check with the owner first, as the restaurant policy might prohibit this.

And, if the restaurant has a limited wine program, it might not have stemware that you feel does your wine justice. I see nothing wrong with bringing your own glasses, and we have often done just that – wine-geeky as it seems.

Finally, take care of your server. It is not the fault of the waitstaff that you brought in your own bottle, so don’t punish them when it is time to calculate the tip – add in an appropriate amount for the wine service being provided.

Michael Perlis provides outsourced controller services to businesses that do not need a full-time controller. He balances this with his interest in wine: reading and writing about it and, of course, drinking it. He is still trying to figure out how to combine these two pursuits. Feel free to contact him about either at mcpfinancial@aol.com or michaelthezinfan@aol.com.