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Reviewing the book, Malbec Mon Amour, by Laura Catena and Alejandro Vigil

April 29, 2022 by evebushman

Recently offered a book written by a vintner I’ve met and admired for a long time, from a country I haven’t visited, and I jumped on it. Filling in the blanks, I’m sharing details from the publisher, my review of the book and their latest vintage below.

From the Publisher

I wanted to introduce you to a whimsical, yet informative book that has been in the works for over ten years, written by Laura Catena and Bodega Catena Zapata’s oenologist Alejandro Vigil.

Malbec mon amour tells the story of Malbec, a story of near extinction, rebirth and in a joyful end, the story of how a plant has elevated the lives of millions of people for over 2,000 years. Laura and Alejandro had the vision of a book that would reflect the fun and inspiration that Alejandro and Laura experienced in their daily rides throughout the vineyards of Mendoza.  Why “mon amour”? Well, Alejandro Vigil has Malbec tattooed on his arm, and Laura’s family’s journey from Italy to Argentina began 120 years ago with a plant of Malbec.

Alejandro and Laura see the world of wine, its ancient history, its terroir, its people, its soils and climate in very romantic and artistic terms. But at the same time, they are both scientists. This illustrated book combines the art and science of wine in a way that has never been done before. It tells the story of how the Malbec variety went from fame to near-extinction and back, and why Malbec is so much more than a wine variety. It is a wine that tells the history of humanity and the journey of immigrants and plants across continents.

The book is currently available on Amazon in North America, Central America, Latin America, and Europe.

Book Review

What a gorgeous book, from the front cover through to the pages, inviting me to really want to get into it and into it I did! As well as the sample of their 2019 Malbec! Get your own book to see the pages and what’s inside, these are my takeaways:

  • “According to oral tradition, the Malbec grape expanded from its native Cahors to Bordeaux in the 18th century, introduced by a Hungarian winemaker called Malbeck or Malbek. In Bordeaux, producers used it to lend more color to their claret.”
  • Malbec may have been known as “the black wine” due to harvesting at night or the color that stained people’s teeth and tongue.
  • At one time England’s Henry III personally protected Cahors Malbec so that Bordeaux officials could not limit any sales or its transportation. And King Francis I of France liked Malbec so much that it was known as the King’s Plant, Plante du Roi.
  • One of our authors, Laura Catena, visited Cahors as a “pilgrimage to the original home of Malbec” studying the history and meeting with experts.
  • Malbec was just behind Cabernet Sauvignon, as the second most important variety, during the 1855 classification in Bordeaux. The grape was first planted in Argentina in 1853, from vines from Bordeaux, and resulted in a low yield and high quality wine.
  • When Phylloxera “wiped Malbec off the map” in Bordeaux it was replaced with Merlot. However, at the same time, Malbec was still doing well in Argentina.
  • Manual wine presses were used until the 1950s, some wineries still use this method for “uva francesca” aka the French grape known as Malbec.
  • Mendoza, Argentina, is the fifth largest wine producer in the world with 345,000 acres under vine, from hundreds of wineries. Many export their wines worldwide.
  • By the end of the 1970s there had been a financial crisis that changed grape production, Malbec was removed for higher-yielding varietals and “most Argentine wines were characterized by somewhat oxidized aromas, a soft mouthfeel, low aromatic intensity and little varietal typicity.”
  • In 1984 winemaker Nicolas Catena Zapata had just returned from a tour of Napa, and felt that if Napa could compete with the French (Judgement of Paris) so could Argentina. He planted Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, updated his winemaking practices and hired Paul Hobbs, a well-known and respected consultant from California.
  • “Catena Zapata has the largest selection of Malbec plants in the world.” The Catena Institute, where Alejandro Vigil works as a soil specialist, evaluates the soil’s “behavior with every vintage.” There is a lot of information on how soil effects terroir – and aromas in the finished product.
  • Mendoza is a desert, with an average of eight inches of rain per year, and water is 260 to 660 underground. The area requires drip irrigation, and this is generally used prior to bud break.
  • The book includes the Winkler Scale of the micro-climates of Mendoza, the Winkler Index charting temperature, the history of the Catena Institute, detailed descriptions of the Malbec vineyards in Mendoza, Uco Valley and other regions, as well as dozens of illustrations, photographs and maps.

Tasting 2019 Catena Malbec

A regal dark purple color, and a nose full of fresh lush fruit – juicy blackberry, crushed plums, blueberry – followed by hints of tri-color peppercorns, bark, moss and very dark sweetened chocolate. The taste reminded me of a bowl of fresh cut fruit – the same as on the nose – as well as layers of dark spices and drying tannins for a lingering finish. I didn’t have my sample with any food, and I didn’t need to. Well done.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: argentina, book review, Bordeaux, cabernet sauvignon, Chardonnay, chocolate, climate, color, France, Italy, Malbec, oenology, phylloxera, pressing, soil, spice, tannins, tasting notes, terroir, variety, vintage, Wine tasting, winemaker

Get to know Pla de Bages, Spain’s smallest appellation which is rising to new heights

December 6, 2021 by evebushman

NEW YORK (PRWEB) – Despite its absence on the average wine list in the United States, Pla de Bages represents a most interesting story of resilience in the wine world.

Located north-west of lively Barcelona, Pla de Bages stretches on 1230 acres across two fluvial valleys shaped by the Llobregat and the Cardener rivers. The region has been associated with wine production from the very beginning inasmuch as to be named after Bacchus, the Greek god of wine. Pla de Bages means Plain of Bacchus and conjures up the image of a land dotted with vineyards. Wine production already flourished under Roman domination, as witnessed by the architecture of rural villas and pottery remains from the 2nd-century, one vase bearing the noun vinum, wine in Latin. In the following centuries the popularity of the region would only grow, reaching its peak in the 19th century.

Its gilded epoch expanded between 1860 and 1890 when Pla de Bages became Catalonia’s most productive wine region, supplying Barcelona’s market as well as France, already experiencing the drama of Phylloxera and craving for quality wine. Unfortunately, by the end of the century the pest had also reached Pla de Bages dragging the region into obscurity.

Despite the odds, today Pla de Bages still produces attention worthy wines, some from varieties not often found elsewhere, thanks to the determination of a small group of obstinate producers who have resisted the temptation to abandon the valley and move to the city for a safer earning. This bunch of families have embraced innovation as a way to enhance the regional great potential, nowadays almost forgotten by human memory. Clay and calcareous soils, together with the local microclimate, low amount of rain and the noticeable diurnal range, allow grapes to thrive. Made from Picapoll Blanc and Macabeo varieties, white wines are savoury and fresh, whereas from Sumoll and Garnacha grapes red wines gain intense fruity aromas and a high drinkability. The quality-driven efforts of the local wineries, amounting nowadays to fifteen brands, resulted in Pla de Bages gaining DO status in 1995 and, most importantly, revived a long tradition which would otherwise have been lost.

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: aroma, bacchus, calcareous, clay, drink, fruity, garnacha, grapes, microclimate, phylloxera, picpoul, soil, spain, variety, vineyards, white wine, wineries

Perlis Picks: Some Wine History Books

May 23, 2020 by Michael Perlis

I find myself reading more lately, so I thought it was a good time to catch up on some books to review and suggest to our readers.

We’re going to start by going way back.

Painting by Ferdinand Deppe, photo credit California Historical Society.

In Tasting the Past: The Science of Flavor and the Search for the Origins of Wine, journalist Kevin Begos chronicles his first taste of a red wine from his hotel mini-bar in Jordan made by the Cremisan Winery and Monastery. The wine and winery were both unfamiliar to him [and definitely to me and I expect probably to you too]. That bottle set him off on a multi-year, multi-country quest to learn about the grape varieties that went into the truly old-world wines, many of which are not known of at all in the United States, such as Jandali, Hamdani and Baladi. Tracing the history and combining that quest with a healthy dose of wine science results in a fascinating story that left me wanting to learn more. Told in an engaging and witty style, Begos is definitely someone I’d like to share a bottle of something obscure and interesting with.

Tasting the Past: The Science of Flavor and the Search for the Origins of Wine

By Kevin Begos

https://www.amazon.com/Tasting-Past-Science-Flavor-Origins/dp/1616205776

 

Jumping forward (a lot) is Crush: The Triumph of California Wine by John Briscoe. This book traces the history of wine in California from the 1700s, with the theme of the crises over which the California wine industry has triumphed. While Prohibition might be the first thing to come to mind, the author also discusses the San Francisco earthquake, world wars and phylloxera, as well as economics and politics, as impediments over which the California wine industry has been ultimately triumphant. Briscoe, who lives in San Francisco, is himself a poet, lawyer and author of other published books as well as being co-owner of the fifth oldest restaurant in the United States – Sam’s Grill.

Crush: The Triumph of California Wine

By John Briscoe

https://www.amazon.com/Crush-Triumph-California-John-Briscoe/dp/1943859493/ref=tmm_hrd_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1588273558&sr=8-1

 

About the only thing not covered in great depth about California wine in Crush is the story of wine in our own Los Angeles area. Thomas Pinney nicely fills that gap with The City of Vines: A History of Wine in Los Angeles. I first became familiar with Mr. Pinney’s work when I read his exhaustive two volume A History of Wine in America (which I highly recommend). This book enables Pinney to provide a much more micro analysis of how much wine dominated our local area and environs. Of course, I had known for some time that the wine industry in L.A. today is a mere shadow of what it used to be, but I had not realized to what extent this was true. The list of street name origins alone is enough to drive this point home. Alas, those are mostly about all we have left of that legacy. Many factors contributed to the demise of the Los Angeles wine story – prohibition, rising real estate values, population changes, Pierce’s disease are just some of them.

The City of Vines: A History of Wine in Los Angeles

By Thomas Pinney

https://www.amazon.com/City-Vines-History-Wine-Angeles/dp/1597143987/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=city+of+vines&qid=1588273634&sr=8-1

The last part of City of Vines touches a little on the resurgence of winemaking in LA County, with mentions of Rosenthal and Moraga along with Reyes up here in the Santa Clarita Valley. But followers of Eve’s Wine 101 know there is a lot more than that going on. In the SCV alone we have Pulchella, Hoi Polloi, Pagter Brothers, to name just some of them. Farther northeast is Golden Star and down in Los Angeles are Byron Blatty as well as Angeleno in downtown L.A., among others. While these developments were probably not considered significant enough at the time to be included in the book, there is actually even more going on, which I will tell you about soon.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also President of MCP Financial, which provides outsourced controller services. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or mcpfinancial@aol.com.

Filed Under: Michael Perlis Tagged With: Angeles, bottle, California, crush, flavor, michael perlis, phylloxera, prohibition, red wine, restaurant, san francisco, tasting, united states

More From Napa: Phifer Pavitt, Tank Garage Winery, Larkmead, Joseph Phelps and Switchback Ridge

December 29, 2017 by evebushman

This is the last article in my series on the Napa Valley for 2017. Today we will have a virtual taste from Phifer Pavitt, Tank Garage Winery, Larkmead and Joseph Phelps.

Phifer Pavitt

phifer pavitt 2017We met with Luke Speer, the Director of Hospitality, for our tasting. Phifer Pavitt is known (written up in Wine Spectator 13 times so far) for their “Date Night” Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. New for them: the XRoads Cabernet Sauvignon. A sparkling has recently been added but, woe is me, none was available for tasting during our visit.

We began with the 2016 Phifer Pavitt Sauvignon Blanc – fresh, crisp, lemon-lime, fleshy peach with low acid and a long finish. I’m partial to this wine as I’ve known the winemaker before he made commercial wine and have been a longtime fan: Gary Warburton. Next we tried the 2013 Date Night – It was big, dry and tannic with exceptional plump blue to black fruit, fig, smoke, aromatic and perfumy. Their red winemaker Ted Osborne always does a great job. Now onto the 2014 Date Night – I got a bit brighter fruit than I did from the 2013, but with the same plumpness. Very well done. The 2014 XRoads Cab had great fruit from the valley floor: red fruit, dried blueberry, black cherry, and very balanced with the tannins. Destined to be a hit.

www.phiferpavittwine.com

Tank Garage Winery: Completely Out of the Tasting Room Box

tank garage wineryCan’t recall exactly where I heard about the Tank Garage Winery, but it was either via a wine trade or marketing magazine. I had read it was a unique space with a unique brand. What I discovered is that this is a must stop for those looking for a different experience, or those new to wine looking for some fun.

Several out-of-the-box ideas flew at me:

  • Turned a 1930s era filling station into a tasting room and…a cozy Speakeasy in the back for members only.
  • The wines are all one and done. Each release is an all new blend, name and package.
  • The official motto is actually “Never Dream Alone” and they’ve “found a ton of amazing people to dream” with them.
  • All of their wines are in fact small batch. At one point, they were all under 125 cases, but as they’ve grown, some are as large as 500 cases, like their brand new Chrome Dreams.
  • They have four wines that are distributed at larger production including a Rosé, Chardonnay, Cab and Red Blend called All or Nothing, which is primarily Zin, Cab and Petite Sirah.
  • The Wine Club has three levels, 3-Bottle, 6-Bottle and 12-Bottle. The Half-Tank and Full-Tank options are just for purchases in the tasting room.

The wines we quickly tasted through (I didn’t make an appointment and had another coming up) included a 2016 “California Stroke” White Wine, California, 92% Vermentino with 8% Verdelho, skin fermented; 2015 “Nothing Gold Can Stay” 100% Chardonnay, Napa Valley, 40% new oak and 60% neutral; 2015 “Like You Stole It” Red Wine, Contra Costa County, blend of Mourvedre, Grenache and Carignane; 2015 “Take It Easy” Red Wine, Sonoma County, a blend of 96% Zinfandel, 3% Petite Sirah and 1% Carignane; 2014 “The Heavy” Red Wine, Napa Valley – the only label that stays with each vintage – and a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc.

Larkmead Vineyards

larkmeadJeff Smith from Hourglass suggested we make a reservation to taste at Larkmead. Beautiful tasting areas both inside and out, we snagged a couch and settled in for a few tastes. We did learn that the vineyards were established back in the 1800s and the first vintage came in 1930s! Look up Lillie Hitchcock Coit (yes, of Coit Tower fame) to sleuth around more. Lillie had a wild life before she died in 1929. She was the first female volunteer firefighter and sold grapes to churches during prohibition – among other things.

The wines are “heavily allocated” to loyal members. Though all from the valley floor the vineyards have a diversity of soils and gravel. One vineyard, the Dr. Olmo, is named after the famed UC Davis Dr. Olmo that is credited for fighting Phylloxera. We tasted three wines: 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon was all mature developed fruit, velvety soft, pepper and nicely balanced black currant, black plum and black currant with crushed black pepper and spice.

The 2014 Dr. Olmos started with that barnyard nose with the addition of dark chocolate and blackberry while the taste was dry with layered black fruit and tasted oak. The final wine, the 2014 Solari Cab had that barnyard funk, prune, ripe berries, dusty, mint and tannin. The lingering length on this one made it our favorite.

Joseph Phelps Vineyards

The benefits of membership: calling to make an appointment as you park the car in their lot! We had just received our allocation but my hubby wanted to taste the new Insignia before we put it away for a few years. We got to try more than that, and as I wasn’t “covering” the winery I just wanted to at least give their wines a shout out, sans tasting notes, as I’ve never ever been disappointed with Joseph Phelps: 2014 Pinot Noir, Pastorale Vineyard, Sonoma Coast; 2014 Pinot Noir, Quarter Moon Vineyard, Sonoma Coast; 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley; 2012 INSIGNIA, Napa Valley (I did note this one as “perfect”); 2014 INSIGNIA, Napa Valley; and a 2015 INSIGNIA, Napa Valley, barrel sample.

Switchback Ridge

Last but not least we had the opportunity to try another winery new to us: Switchback Ridge. Their 2014 Switchback Ridge Merlot gave off that interesting funky barnyard nose, saddle leather at first. Some of that blew off and I got good dark fruit while the 2014 Switchback Ridge Cabernet had pungent thick fruit that softened in the glass, a bit of mint and licorice on the nose as well. In the mouth I tasted layers of blackberry, black cherry, cigar, oak and tannin. Bob Foley makes these two wines.

www.switchbackridge.com

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. 

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: acid, aroma, balance, Cabernet Franc, cabernet sauvignon, California, carignane, Chardonnay, finish, fruit, Grenache, Merlot, Mourvedre, Napa Valley, nose, Oak, Petite Sirah, phylloxera, Pinot Noir, red blend, Rose, Sparkling wine, tannic, tasting room, UC Davis, verdelho, vermentino, vineyards, vintage, white wine, wine club, wine spectator, Wine tasting, Zinfandel

Vintage Eve Circa 2/14: Eve Reviews The New California Wine by Jon Bonné

September 5, 2017 by evebushman

Nearly 300 pages of continuing education, that’s how I saw this book. I took diligent notes through to page 180 (below) of key items that I thought would be of interest to wine 101ers.

Jon Bonne, photo - KCET

Jon Bonne, photo – KCET

The second section of the book, however, was very subjective as Bonné covered many popular California grape varietals, and growing areas, and then made suggestions – The Three-Bottle Tour being the narrowest view and his choice of Top Producers getting a paragraph or two. How can you narrow down the best Cabernets of California to three bottles or 8 wineries? Even with the addition of a “More Notable Wines” section, we only got eleven more Cabs.

So, are you going to stick to 19 wineries for your California Cabs? I think not. This was the theme throughout and all I could imagine were the thousands of hard working winemakers shaking their heads in disgust…and wondering how they will ever get their wine tasted. I, dear reader, plan to do my part and keep tasting. Some of Bonné’s suggestions, some of yours, and some that I happen to come across on my own. I urge you to do the same.

Notes from Bonné for Wine 101ers

Bigger isn’t always better. (I’ve had many high-octane California wines and am happy to see a return to less alcohol with good flavor and tannin structure.)

Terroir does matter. You can’t just plant any grape anywhere. California winemakers are learning by doing.

In the section “Searching for The New California” Bonné gives a respectful nod to winemakers off the beaten path of wineries we normally visit.

Readers will get a wealth of wine history – from prohibition, the Judgment of Paris, growers morphing into winemakers, phylloxera, current winemaking practices, through to Bonné’s list of current cult winemakers.

Find new ways to discover wine with destinations like the Lompoc Wine Ghetto for the Garagiste/Garage winemaker.

Wineries that are making more than one label so that people can enjoy both “table” wines as well as special occasion wines.

Comprehensive sections on each grape growing region, and what’s special about each, makes you feel as if you have seen the terrain yourself.

Color photographs throughout, though having them all captioned may have been more helpful.

##

Praise for THE NEW CALIFORNIA WINE:

“The New California Wine delivers some of the most insightful wine writing you’ll read anywhere. This is the real skinny on cutting-edge California wine from somebody who’s on the ground, knows his stuff, and could care less about offending the Establishment.”

–          Matt Kramer, author and columnist for Wine Spectator

“An impeccably timed, beautifully written book chronicling a profound generational shift in California winemaking. Required reading for any sommelier, retailer, or consumer who’s left California behind for other pastures – it’s time to come home!”

–          David Lynch, owner/wine director of St. Vincent Tavern and Wine Merchant and author of Vino Italiano

The New California Wine is the untold story of the California wine industry: the young, innovative producers who are rewriting the rules of contemporary winemaking; their quest to express the uniqueness of California terroir; and the continuing battle to move the state away from the overly-technocratic practices of its recent past. In this comprehensive guide to the new generation of must-know wines and vintners, Jon Bonné writes from the front lines of the California wine revolution, where he has access to the stories, philosophies, and techniques of top producers.

Well-Connected Author: As the wine editor for the San Francisco Chronicle, Jon has won a regional following in the Bay Area as well as national recognition as one of the most important voices in the wine community. He is very active on Twitter and has nearly 14,000 followers.

Winning Book Formula: The New California Wine will do for California what Vino Italiano did for Italian wines: rid the industry of its overly-commercialized image and introduce the public to the avant-garde winemakers who are making compelling–and better–wines. The New California Wine includes evocative, full-color photography, giving it the same visual appeal as the top-selling Secrets of the Sommeliers.

Featuring discussions on more than 600 wines and detailed maps of growing regions and vineyards, The New California Wine is a necessary addition to any wine lover’s bookshelf. Part narrative, part authoritative purchasing reference, it is the story of the winemakers who have changed the very face of California’s wine industry.

Jon Bonné is the wine editor of the San Francisco Chronicle and covers wine and spirits throughout California and around the world. Previously Bonné was lifestyle editor and wine columnist for MSNBC.com and wine columnist for Seattle magazine, and has written for such publications as Decanter, Saveur, and Food & Wine. His work in food and wine journalism has earned awards from the James Beard Foundation and the Association of Food Journalists. Follow him on Twitter @jbonne.

The New California Wine, Jon Bonné. $35.00 paper over board • 304 pages • 50 full-color photographs • 7 7/16 x 9 inches. ISBN 978-1-60774-300-2 • On-Sale Date: November 5, 2013

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: alcohol, cabernet sauvignon, California, garagiste, grape, lompoc, phylloxera, san francisco, sommelier, tannins, terroir, varietal, wine education, wine spectator, Wine tasting, winemaker

Wine 101ers Get: AUSTRALIA UP CLOSE Part One

June 9, 2017 by evebushman

With a geographical size similar to the US and distinct climates, soils and terroirs, its no surprise that Australia boasts an array of wine styles, regions and grape varieties for you to experience.

This was an intriguing teaser to a recent Australian wine event I attended. I went in knowing very little about Australian white wines so I signed up for their seminar, and then knew I would enjoy the walk around tasting to get my fill of the wines I was more familiar with: Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignons and many Bordeaux and Rhone blends.

IMG_0059SEMINAR – White Wines: Unique Expressions of Australian Riesling, Semillon and Chardonnay

Australia is blessed with regions and climates that can produce truly world-class wines from the noblest of vines. Discover the many exciting expressions of Riesling, Semillon and Chardonnay being produced across Australia’s diverse wine regions. Presented by special guests and winemakers, and moderated by Wine Australia.

Our Seminar Panelists  

Fahara Zamorano – Head Sommelier, Gwen LA; Matt Kaner – Owner, Bar Covell & Augustine; Kyle Meyer – Wine Exchange; Bruce Tyrrell – Tyrrell’s Wines; Jeff Burch – Howard Park Wines; Jeff McWilliam – McWilliam’s Wines; Mark Davidson, Wine Australia (Moderator).

Seminar Wines – Flavors and Aromas separated by ;

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Hunter Semillon Hunter Valley 2011 – Green apple, pineapple lemon zest, Mandarin orange and white pepper all on the nose; with lemon-lime, bruised apple and a medium acidity on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon Hunter Valley 2009 – I smelled apple, pear, fresh lemon, pears in light syrup; then tasted bright and tangy fresh fruit – same as those I found on the nose. 90 Eve pts.

Ashbrook Estate Semillon Margaret River 2015 – Perfumy aroma, then bruised yellow apple, cream and a pale hint of cinnamon; viscous on the mouth, as well as slightly paler fruit and a long finish. 90 Eve pts.

Silkman Estate Semillon Hunter Valley 2015 – Lemon, toast, grapefruit and unsalted butter on the nose; followed by tart apple and limeade on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Pewsey Vale Contours Riesling Eden Valley 2011 – Fruit cocktail, green grass to yellow hay, floral and bright; that same bright quality came through on the taste as well as lemon, grass, acidity, bone dry. 90 Eve pts.

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling Clare Valley 2016 – Bright aromas of pears and kiwi fruit; followed by lemon, orange and steel on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling Frankland River 2015 – Green apple, crushed green leaves and a whiff of orange on the nose; the palate was very sharp citrus fruit: lemon and orange, a slight viscosity and a long dry finish. 90 Eve pts.

Pressing Matters R9 Riesling Tasmania 2015 – My favorite of all the white wines I tasted with aromas of sweet orange blossoms, apple pie and a bit of cream; then came a slightly sweet and lingering fresh lemon-lime fruit on the mouth. 91 Eve pts. (All of the Riesling shared the same bone dry quality, except this expression from Tasmania.)

McWilliam’s 842 Chardonnay Tumbarumba 2013 – Fresh oak, honey, barnyard, earth, citrus, butter and white pepper on the nose; then the taste was tart, some oak and apple. 91 Eve pts.

Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay Mornington Peninsula 2012 – Earthy, dried apple, butter, clove and steely; then bruised apple, tart with medium acid. 90 Eve pts.

Howard Park Miamup Chardonnay Margaret River 2015 – Toast, lemon, cream, and a general feeling of being in a sweet floral garden; the flavors were bright, tart and citrusy with a medium acidity and long finish. 89 Eve pts.

Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay Adelaide Hills 2014 – Creamery butter, lemon and green fields; then that same lemon on the mouth, but light, and a leaner acidity. 89 Eve pts.

What I Learned From Our Panelists and the White Wine Tasting

One of our panelists stated that if you remotely expect that a Semillon from Australia would taste like one from Bordeaux, France you would be dead wrong. If you thought that a Riesling from Australia would taste like its German counterpart you would be equally wrong. My tasting notes above probably express this.

Australia is considered a New World wine area, however, Meyer would like us to see their wines as truly old world, but with an edge. The vines are very old, the area is larger than Europe and Phylloxera has never hit them.

The 12 elite wineries in “Australia’s First Families of Wine” group have several criteria to meet including their dedication to promote Australian wine to the global market, 100% family owned and have to have at least a 20 year vertical.

Next week I will run part two of the tasting, the reds I got to try, on June 16 here on this blog.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: acidity, aroma, Australia, Bordeaux, cabernet sauvignon, Chardonnay, dry, flavor, floral, fruit, length, mouthfeel, new world, nose, palate, phylloxera, points, Rhone, Riesling, semillon, Shiraz, sommelier, variety, white wine, wine education, Wine tasting, winemaker

October 2016 Edition: Bits and Pieces by Michael Perlis

October 29, 2016 by Michael Perlis

Facebook and other media have been burning up for the last few months with news about a certain Paso Robles winery not being particularly environmentally friendly. If you’re not aware of it, here’s something to get you started: http://pasoroblesdailynews.com/justin-winery-clear-cutting/56473/. For regular updates, check out the Protect The Oaks Facebook page.

Larry Turley and Suzanne Chambers Turley of Turley Wine Cellars (photo: Napa Valley Register)

Larry Turley and Suzanne Chambers Turley of Turley Wine Cellars (photo: Napa Valley Register)

On the other hand, not getting nearly enough publicity is the good work that Larry Turley and Suzanne Chambers Turley of Turley Wine Cellars are doing to preserve historic properties. Check this out: http://napavalleyregister.com/star/news/local/turleys-preserve-property-with-land-trust-of-napa-county/article_07294e29-11e0-5189-a161-2ebe755bcea0.html.

Paso’s Best Wines has a neat little video series with local wine experts blind tasting and trying to identify the wines. Pretty fun stuff and one big takeaway is to not feel bad when you can’t identify a wine…the experts often can’t either!

While I am on the topic of videos… in case you missed it, late last year an Australian winery’s ad was banned in the UK for being “sexist and suggestive.” Lots of people were apparently offended by this. My wife Karen definitely was…by the actor’s inability to hold the wine glass properly. Others were bothered by the apparent blatant ripoff of a work by a Spanish painter [whose name now escapes me – can anyone help me out here?].

There was a nice article in Sports Illustrated a few months ago about pro athletes getting the wine bug and starting wineries after retiring: http://www.si.com/nfl/2016/07/01/rick-mirer-drew-bledsoe-wine-patriots-retired-athletes. Sure, we’ve all seen these kind of articles if we subscribe to wine magazines, but they are preaching to the choir to a great extent. Getting the coverage in the sports publication might inspire readers who might not ordinarily be interested in wine. And for those of us who frequent Paso Robles, it was especially nice to see the coverage of Terry Hoage, who clearly has not rested on his laurels.

Finally, here’s one last item to think about…there are still plenty of people out there who feel that French wines are the best in the world and who turn up their noses at California wineries. However, did you know that when Phylloxera decimated many of France’s vineyards in the mid-1800s, vines were grafted over to resistant American rootstock? Known as the Great French Wine Blight, “nearly all French wine, including expensive French wine, comes from vines grafted onto American roots.” So there.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Filed Under: Michael Perlis Tagged With: Facebook, France, Napa Valley, Paso Robles, phylloxera, winery

Book Review: Oz Clarke’s The History of Wine in 100 Bottles

July 3, 2015 by evebushman

At first glance I thought wow, this is a beautiful book, with glossy pages and photos, this will be one I won’t be highlighting or making marks and notes in the margins on. Though it will be a lovely textbook of review, it looks like a book I’d pick up at an art museum. Now…to the reading!

My Review

baqdqif6qxeb1ij2vqmuWriter Oz Clarke gives a bottle-by-bottle retelling of wine’s most historical moments, one hundred of them, satirically most of the time so it’s a highly entertaining read. Along with that, he dedicates two pages – one filled with a photo or two and captions and the other with text – making it also an easy read. Some of the points, like the history of rules governing Bordeaux and Phylloxera, I’ve read (and possibly wrote about) before so I will share with readers just some of the interesting tidbits of knowledge I may not have shared before. Suffice it to say, you need to pick up your own copy for the full skinny.

Our story begins in 6000 BC with clay pot wine from the Republic of Georgia. Noah, yes that Noah, is credited as our first vineyard owner. In ancient Greece water was purposely used to dilute the flavor of wine. Between 300 BC and 200 AD a wine called Opimian was known to burst into flames if lit. The German wine, a 1540 vintage Steinwein, is the oldest known vintage of wine. (Oz has a theory as to why that’s the case.) The “steel worm” corkscrew, the grandfather of what we use today, appeared first in 1581. Louise XIV, and his conservative court, didn’t like bubbles in their Dom Perignon Champagne.

Why was there a straw flask wrapped around the bottle of your parent’s Chianti? (It wasn’t for appeal in making a candleholder.) Cork is shaven off of trees and regrows, so there is no harm and that’s why there seems to be an endless supply. The “Blood Vintages” in Champagne are 1914 and 1915…do you know why? Roederer Cristal Champagne comes in a clear bottle wrapped in orange cellophane to protect the contents from sunlight; I was surprised to learn the original reason for its use. During the 1940s Mateus was rumored to be more expensive and a better choice than Champagne. (Of course this is a rumor shared by our author – for our amusement or not?) Also during the 1940s, Hitler confiscated one half million bottles of French wines for his own cellar. Professor Emile Peynaud is credited for stopping the use of rotten grapes in wine production, cleaning up wineries, cooling down cellars, using new oak barrels and introducing secondary labels for lesser-quality wines from the same winery.

Boxed wine started in 1963 in Sweden? Gallo’s 1964 “hearty burgundy” was the best wine at the time? Why did a wine called Retsina have pine resin in it? Nouveau Beaujolais wine is made in 6 weeks? A 95 point score from critic Robert Parker equals a million dollars to a winery? The Garagiste movement began in France? A sparkling wine made in England was the best in the world in 1998? Yep, these tidbits of wine knowledge will be covered in the book as well as many others including wine fraud, prohibition, White Zinfandel, corks and screw caps.

Very much worth the time of any wine lover!

From the press release, “A former leading West End actor, Oz Clarke is one of the world’s best-known wine experts, whose formidable reputation is based on his extensive wine knowledge and accessible, no-nonsense approach. Known for his phenomenal palate, irreverent style, accurate predictions, and enthusiasm for life in general, Clarke is Britain’s most popular wine writer.”

The History of Wine in 100 Bottles

by Oz Clarke

Sterling Epicure

ISBN: 978-1-4549-1561-4

$24.95 ($27.95 Can)

Hardcover

224 pages

Publication date: April 28, 2015

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years.  She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition.  You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: beaujolais, Bordeaux, cabernet sauvignon, champagne, chianti, corkscrew, England, France, Germany, Greece, Napa Valley, phylloxera, prohibition, robert parker, Sparkling wine, vineyard, vintage, wine education

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Eve Bushman, owner Eve’s Wine 101 and Eve Bushman Consulting.

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