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Perlises Pick: Soda Rock Winery

June 25, 2022 by Michael Perlis

A trip to the Healdsburg area wouldn’t be complete without visiting Antoine Favero. Antoine is a winemaker for several of the Wilson Family Wineries. We’ve met with him a few times at Mazzocco Sonoma in Dry Creek Valley [with a focus on amazing Zinfandels] and at Jaxon Keys in Mendocino County [love those Rhone varietals] but we felt we should expand our reporting so we agreed to meet at Soda Rock Winery in Alexander Valley, which specializes in Bordeaux varietals.

Pulling up to Soda Rock Winery should be very impressive for any first-time visitor. It sure was for us. Visible from the road is the towering figure of Lord Snort, who is directly in front of the sadly burnt-out husk of the original winery and tasting room that was destroyed in the 2019 Kincade fire. The winery building was about 150 years old and was the original site of the Alexander Valley general store and post office. Ken and Diane Wilson purchased the property in the year 2000.

By now, you might be wondering who is Lord Snort, whose photo is included with this article. Lord Snort is a 20,000 steel sculpture created by local artist, Bryan Tedrick. This is the second of his sculptures at a Wilson family winery property, being preceded by the Coyote sculpture at Wilson Winery in the Dry Creek Valley.

Lord Snort actually made his debut at Burning Man – check out this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=edNJ_uGzlmA – and the rumor is he will be there again.

We arrived at Soda Rock a little before Antoine got there and were greeted warmly by tasting room hostess, Madison. She gave us the option of tasting in the refurbished barn or outside among the trees right next to the vineyard and we chose the latter. Although Antoine had planned an afternoon of red wines for us, Madison poured us a couple of whites to get us started.  She also brought over some cheeses and charcuterie to nibble on, which are available for purchase with your tasting.

Kenneth Carl Sparkling Brut – blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a kiss of Pinot Meunier.  Notes of green apple, ripe pear.  Made at the Jaxon Keys winery in Mendocino but available at all of the Wilson family wineries. 

2019 Chardonnay Reserve West Soda Rock – Alexander Valley, 100% Chardonnay. Notes of lemon, blood orange and sweet honey.

By now, Antoine had arrived. It was such a pleasure to see him again. Not only is he a great winemaker but the passion he exudes for his craft is infectious. It had clearly rubbed off on Madison who continued to pour the wines and share her thoughts on them.

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Twisted Rail – Alexander Valley near Cloverdale   Named for a 2011 abandoned railroad tunnel fire that was originally built in 1898, this wine is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot.  Medium color and tannin, big and bright with notes of cigar and black cherry and a dry, clean finish.

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Five Star General – Alexander Valley.   95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Merlot.  The best of the barrels for each varietal go into this.  Chocolate, blue and black berry notes with supple and subtle tannins.

2018 Malbec Reserve Runway – Dry Creek Valley near the Mazzocco winery. 77% Malbec, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tangy and deep, but brightened up by the Cabernet.  Cherry, cedar and leather notes. 

2019 Cabernet Franc Warm Springs Ranch – Dry Creek Valley near Lake Sonoma, the wine is   93% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. These vines are at 1700 ft elevation; they get stressed from the high elevation, but are cooled by the nearby afternoon marine breezes. Fruit forward and very well rounded.

2019 Meritage Alexander Valley – Sonoma County. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot. Notes of dark plum fruit along with chewiness from the Cab Franc, with a full mouthfeel and a long finish.

2019 Lord Snort – Sonoma County. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot   We might have expected a wine named after a steel sculpture of a wild boar to be frivolous, but we should have known better. This was a serious wine, with lots of depth from the Merlot

2019 Zinfandel Wentworth – Sonoma County. It wouldn’t have been a visit with Antoine without a great Zin; this one is 75% Zinfandel, 20% Primitivo and 5% Petite Sirah. It is named after Fred Wentworth, the original owner of the Alexander Valley general store that housed the Soda Rock Winery before the fire.  Tart, fruit-forward, dark fruit, chocolate and vanilla notes, tinge of nutmeg and ginger, herbaceous.

2019 Primitivo Lytton Station – Alexander Valley. 96% Primitivo, 4% Petite Sirah. Persian cucumber nose with vanilla and cinnamon notes, refreshing and cool.

We really enjoyed all of these wines and highly recommend visiting Soda Rock Winery. There is so much local history in the refurbished barn saved from the fire that we found interesting.  It made for a leisurely wine tasting afternoon.  We would be remiss if we did not remind our readers of the Children of Vineyard Workers Scholarship Fund created by Ken and Diane Wilson in 2002 in collaboration with the Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Per the website, this fund has distributed more than $500,000 in scholarships. Antoine administers this program and was excited to tell us that one of their recipients had just gotten accepted into Yale. Wow, talk about life-changing!

Soda Rock Winery

www.sodarockwinery.com

8015 CA-128, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Please note there is also a tasting room in downtown Healdsburg:

409A Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Filed Under: Michael Perlis Tagged With: alexander Valley, aroma, Barrel, brut, Cabernet Franc, cabernet sauvignon, California, charcuterie, Chardonnay, cheese, chocolate, dry creek valley, finish, flavor, fruit, Healdsburg, Malbec, Merlot, mouthfeel, petit verdot, Petite Sirah, pinot meunier, Pinot Noir, primitivo, red wine, Rhone, Sonoma, sparkling, tannins, tasting room, vanilla, varietal, vineyard, white wine, Wine tasting, winemaker, winery, Zinfandel

Guillotine Vodka Originale Edition Is Rewarded with A Gold Medal at Spirits Selection by Concours Mondial De Bruxelles

January 6, 2021 by evebushman

LOS ANGELES (PRWEB) – Guillotine Vodka Originale is one of the few spirits who managed to be rewarded with a gold medal at the prestigious Spirits Selection by Concours Mondial de Bruxelles. This is the 3rd gold medal won by Guillotine Vodka Originale at Spirits Selection by Concours Mondial De Bruxelles, following wins in 2017 and 2018. The 21st Spirits Selection competition recently ended in Brussels, Belgium. This year, the judges complied with very strict safety rules to ensure the event could happen. Sixty professional judges tasted and rated up to 35 alcoholic beverages a day. A total of 1,400 spirits from 54 countries competed to win a medal.

Spirits Selection by Concours Mondial de Bruxelles is THE international event rewarding only the most extraordinary spirits, such as Guillotine Vodka Originale, from all over the globe. Each year, whiskies, cognacs, brandies, rums, vodkas, gins, piscos, grappas, baijius, and tequilas, amongst other spirits, are assessed and classified by a panel of internationally renowned experts. World-renowned judges are rigorously chosen to blind taste the finest spirits.

Guillotine Vodka Originale is a classic, clear vodka made from the finest Champagne-region grapes. Light, smooth, and aromatic, this amazing vodka offers notes of citrus with hints of almond and toffee. The nose is sharp, punctuated by soft notes of fresh lemon. The spirit delicately coats the mid-palate, exposing a complex structure that flows into a clean and well-balanced finish. Customers should carefully taste and enjoy this fine spirit to find that the smooth and velvety palate delivers a light fruity hint of Zante currants.

Guillotine Vodka Originale‘s creation starts with a mix of the finest ingredients and traditional crafting methods. The vodkas’ distinctive je ne sais quoi starts with selected ingredients and experienced artisans, who utilize traditional grape picking and processing techniques that lend themselves to creating complex and powerful flavors. The unique taste and finish of Guillotine Vodka Originale is the result of mingling white and black grapes. Only the finest Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay marcs are chosen from vineyards in the Aÿ-Champagne wine region to create this extraordinary spirit. The grape marcs are fermented and slowly distilled in a 100-year-old distillery. This process follows the standards of traditional French expertise that preserve the subtleties of the fruit. Finally, the vodka is then transported to a warehouse in Ile-de-France where the vodka is bottled in locally sourced, custom-made glassware.

Guillotine Vodka Originale offers unparalleled quality, taste, and versatility. A favorite among fine spirits connoisseurs, this ultra-premium vodka has been rewarded multiple gold medals at various international spirits competitions. In 2019, Guillotine Vodka Originale was awarded the gold medal at the 2019 Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit competition. It’s a testament to the brand’s commitment to quality that it has now received the honor of another gold medal from the Spirits Selection by Concours Mondial De Bruxelles.

About Guillotine Vodka

Guillotine is a revolutionary French vodka created exclusively from the Aÿ-Champagne region’s finest pinot and chardonnay grapes. Founded by Paul Berkmann in 2016, the brand’s mission is to introduce the world to the finest artisanal spirits, starting with ultra-premium vodkas that are unparalleled in quality, taste, and joie de vivre. Guillotine is 100% natural, vegan-friendly and gluten-free, containing no coloring or flavoring additives, no glycerol, and no citric acid. Visit http://www.guillotinevodka.com to learn more.

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: alcohol, aroma, artisan, beverage, champagne, Chardonnay, competition, finish, France, gold medal, grape, los angeles, nose, palate, pinot meunier, Pinot Noir, spirits, vineyards, vodka

Guillotine Vodka’s Heritage Edition Included in “The Best Vodka Brands To Buy Right Now”

October 8, 2020 by evebushman

MARINA DEL REY, CALIF. (PRWEB) – Guillotine Vodka had a pretty successful summer season. Throughout the summer the brand had heavily promoted and highlighted their Originale, an ultra-premium vodka made from the finest Champagne-region grapes. This vodka has a light and clean finish, offering notes of citrus with hints of almond and toffee. However, the star of this past summer season was the Heritage barrel-aged vodka. To no one’s surprise, this amber-colored vodka continues to steal the show, receiving validation from global news outlets.

Guillotine Heritage barrel-aged vodka has been listed as #3 by the acclaimed New York-based magazine, Rolling Stone in their “The Best Vodka Brands To Buy Right Now” article. Recognized for their opinions on popular culture, Rolling Stone emphasized the demand for Guillotine Heritage and reinforced the brand’s credibility by noting the uniqueness and sophistication the Heritage possesses, comparing it to a fine cognac.

The article goes on to highlight the brand’s success, stating: “Guillotine is ideal for anyone who’s already developed a palate for vodka and is looking to try something new. It’s been lauded by experts and the public alike, earning a Double Gold Medal at the consumer-judged SIP Awards in 2019.” The Rolling Stone article was then re-published by Yahoo!, more than doubling its exposure to an audience that may be familiar with vodka, but not necessarily aware of this new French vodka that claims to be A Cut Above Le Reste.

Guillotine Heritage Barrel-Aged Vodka is a unique aged vodka that is matured in Cognac and Armagnac barrels made from very special Limousin oak, adding notes of cinnamon and toffee with hints of mandarin orange and licorice. Made in a 100-year-old distillery using a mix of ancient methods and modern savoir-faire, Guillotine Heritage Vodka is an ultra-premium spirit unparalleled in quality, taste, and joie de vivre.

Guillotine Heritage Barrel-Aged Vodka is the only French vodka from Champagne-region vineyards that is aged in oak barrels, instilling Guillotine Heritage with its unique aromas, increased roundness, and golden amber hue. Smooth and clean, with subtle woody notes complemented by hints of spice, vanilla and cinnamon, this exceptional vodka has just the right amount of umami.

Guillotine Heritage Barrel-Aged Vodka is crafted with care using artisanal techniques steeped in France’s rich history of fine wines and spirits. The process starts by handpicking and de-seeding world-renowned grapes, slowly pressing them, patiently distilling them, and expertly preserving their essence. The taste and finish of Guillotine are the results of mingling white and black grapes such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay.

About Guillotine Vodka

Guillotine is a revolutionary French vodka created exclusively from the Aÿ-Champagne region’s finest pinot and chardonnay grapes. Founded by Paul Berkmann in 2016, the brand’s mission is to introduce the world to the finest artisanal spirits, starting with ultra-premium vodkas that are unparalleled in quality, taste, and joie de vivre. Guillotine is 100% natural, vegan-friendly and gluten-free, containing no coloring or flavoring additives, no glycerol, and no citric acid.

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: acid, armagnac, aroma, Barrel, champagne, Chardonnay, cocktails, cognac, distillery, double gold, flavor, France, gluten free, grapes, natural, New York, Oak, palate, pinot meunier, Pinot Noir, spirits, vegan, vodka, wines

Finger Lakes’ Buttonwood Grove Winery owners purchase Toro Run Winery

July 20, 2020 by evebushman

Melissa and David Pittard are excited to announce their recent purchase of Toro Run Winery. Located on State Route 89 in Ovid, Toro Run is noted for their fine wines and spectacular view of Cayuga Lake.  The meticulously managed estate vineyards, planted in 2009 by founders Jim Coppola and Chris Weaver, contain a wide array of classic vinifera grapes.  In addition to popular Finger Lakes varietals, such as Riesling and Cabernet Franc, the vineyards include Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Meunier, which are rarely seen in this region.  The steeply sloping hillside and glacial soil make this a highly-prized location for growing prime quality grapes, which is reflected in the premium artisan wines that Toro Run has produced since opening their tasting room in 2013.

Going forward, the focus will be on continuing the legacy created by the Coppola and Weaver families while introducing innovative production methods, including the use of a variety of fermentation vessels and a focus on unique wines.  Vineyard expansion has already begun, with additional Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc vines added to the existing plantings.

The Pittards also own nearby Buttonwood Grove Winery, which they purchased in 2014.  Since their acquisition of that property, they have more than tripled the vineyard acreage, constructed an onsite production facility, and established a reputation for providing innovative guest  experiences.
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  Among the many award winning wines produced under their ownership is the 2016 Riesling, which won the highly-coveted Governor’s Cup for New York State’s Best Wine in August of 2017.

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: award, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, estate, finger lakes, grapes, Gruner Veltliner, New York, pinot meunier, Riesling, soil, winery

Vintage Eve Circa 10/2016: Differentiating Prosecco from Champagne with Astoria Prosecco DOC Trevisio

October 8, 2019 by evebushman

This week I tasted a new Prosecco (at least it was new to me) and along with the bottle for review I received a little education for wine 101ers on the difference between Italy’s Prosecco and France’s Champagne.

Photo: InsideWine.it

First will be my review of the wine and second will be the information from the winery, Astoria Prosecco.

Tasting

When I opened the shipping box the first thing I noticed about the wine was the bottle: it was a in a design that mimicked a large cut crystal wine goblet topped with shiny red foil – very eye catching. Once opened I got aromas of grapefruit, freshly sliced green apple, peach and pear. The same pear and peach were easily detected in the taste, followed by lemon-lime and orange zest. After my sample I made crisp Aperol Spritzers with the remaining wine. All in all, bottle design included in my evaluation as it was so unique, I would give Astoria Prosecco 91 Eve Pts. 

The winery tasting notes: Astoria Prosecco DOC Treviso ($13): a pale, straw yellow sparkling wine marked by a fruity bouquet, clean citrus flavors and fine, persistent bubbles.

From Astoria Prosecco

The wine world is full of common myths. Perhaps most common is the misconception that all sparkling wines are created equal. Take Prosecco and Champagne — two bubbly bouteilles of equal delight that are surprisingly cut from two very different cloths.

Let’s break it down:

  • First, let’s talk region. Prosecco is from Italy and Champagne is from France. Full stop.
  • Second, consider the grapes. Prosecco is made from Prosecco grapes, also known as “Glera” in Italy.

    Champagne, on the other hand, is made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes.

  • And third, while we know it’s taboo to talk money, you can’t help but notice a stark difference in price. That’s because Prosecco is produced using the very affordable “Tank Method” which helps drive down the average cost to just a bottle.

    By contrast, Champagne is made using the very costly “Méthode Champenoise” or “Traditional Method.” The result? Prices average around $40 a pop.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: aperol, aroma, bubbles, champagne, Chardonnay, France, grapes, Italy, pinot meunier, Pinot Noir, points, prosecco, spritz

Vintage Eve Circa 5/2016: NASA Wine Education, Champagne AOC, Part Two

May 14, 2019 by evebushman

Last week readers got their first lesson, via a seminar I attended from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA) on Champagne, this week we complete the lesson with some more “Details, Myths and News” and, finally, a tasting. Our NASA lecturer, once again, was Diego Meraviglia.

The Échelle des Crus Rating System

Échelle des Crus is a 1-100 point scale for the labeling of grapes, not the wine, in Champagne.

Villages rated at 80 points. (264 wineries)

Premier Cru rated between 90 to 99 points. (43 wineries)

Grand Cru rated at 100 points. (17 wineries – and warrant the highest prices.)

There is no Pinot Meunier in Premier or Grand Cru regions. The AOC broke this rating system in 2010, allowing for more flexibility in the region, but you will still find Premier Cru and Grand Cru designated Champagnes. It is the thought that a winemaker may not put out the same effort in the Villages as say Premier or Grand Cru, as his wine is thought a lesser quality. Now the field is more even.

Details, Myths and News

Some of how Champagne was made: Fermentation was arrested due to the cold temperature in the region. The yeast was then dormant and resuscitated in the Spring to ferment again. Wines exploded in the cellar until the “methode (or traditional method of) champenoise” was born. Secondary fermentation then occurs in the bottle, sealed and then laid down in cellar.

Flutes: Throw them out, Diego says, they were invented for visual only, cannot get the aromas.

Disgorgement dates: look for this date now shown on some bottles; it will be an indicator of knowing how long the wine may have been sitting on a store’s shelf.

Whether you have a vintage or NV Champagne – it’s meant to be drunk at their release, not to be put in your cellar. Degrading starts at disgorgement. One year in the cellar won’t kill it.

If you plan to visit and taste in Champagne you will be greeted by miles of tunnels, wet, chalk on the ground and, “at the end of the day the Champagne is aged for you” because of the terroir and ready for consumption.

Types of Producers (look for these acronyms on Champagne labels)

CM is a co-op of growers working with a winemaker.

NM is merchants (Negotiants) that produce with their own grapes, and also buy, the vast majority of brands.

RM is a small house that grows and uses 95% of their grapes. A grower-producer is one that some will look for, and make 5% of the wine.

RC and MA are others, but rarely seen except for Trader Joe’s or Costco.

 

Tasting Notes separated by ; (Diego’s notes in parenthesis)

NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve (CM) $29.99

Golden delicious apple, pale lemon juice, unsalted butter; same apple on the nose carried through to the palate, lemon lime, with a short finish. 88 Eve pts. (Diego mentioned the yeast, lemon, toasted almonds aromas, and felt this was a good priced entry-level Champagne.)

 

NV Paul Georg Blanc de Blanc Premier Cru Brut (CM) $36.99

Cheddar cheese, canned pineapple, cedar, wheat toast; sharp, tart, pineapple, bitter lemon with a long finish. 88 Eve pts. (100% Chardonnay grapes. And a Blanc de Blanc will be known for its creamy qualities.)

 

NV Veuve Clicquot Brut Rose $64.99

Lavender soap, raspberry, unsalted cracker; raspberry again, white pepper, short finish, pleasant. 89 Eve pts. (Pinot Noir dominates, wild strawberry, cherry on the nose. Rose are fruitier and less yeasty than the others.)

 

NV Billecart-Salmon Demi Sec

Brown sugar, Brie cheese, pink lemonade; honey, lemon soda, French bread, hard candy. 90 Eve pts. (Smoother, lowered effervescence, a Great Gatsby era wine.)

 

NV Pierre Paillard Blanc de Noirs “Les Maillerettes” Grand Cru (RM) $54.99

Biggest yet, jasmine flower, clean, wet pebbles, salty, apricot; chilled fruit cup, pineapple, peach, pear, my favorite of the day so far.  91 Eve pts. (Pinot Noir only.)

 

NV Pierre Peters Cuvee de Reserve Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc (RM) $54.99

Hawaiian pineapple, lemon hard candy, steely; Italian lemon ice, lemon zest, tingling and resonating finish. 90 Eve pts. (20 vintages blended together, called the Solera Method, make up this wine. One of the top five producers. Chardonnay is strong in this wine.)

 

2008 Louis Roederer Brut ($63.99)

Blue cheese, bruised apple, cream, croutons (want a salad); Biting, tart, apple cider. 89 Eve pts. (Pinot 70% and Chard 30%, 37% of wine is vinified/fermented in oak. No malolactic. Four years of aging before release, and six months after disgorgement.)

 

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: cellar, champagne, champenoise, education, fermentation, grapes, nasa, north american sommelier association, pinot meunier, tasting, tasting notes, vintage, Wine tasting

Vintage Eve Circa 5/2016: NASA Wine Education, Champagne AOC, Part One

May 7, 2019 by evebushman

In an ongoing effort to educate myself and wine 101 readers I recently attended an “intensive seminar covering regulations, styles, crus, villages” of Champagne, France.

Diego Meraviglia, the Director of Education for the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), led the class. And this article, part one of two as there was that much to learn (and taste), includes all of my “takeaways.”

What can be called Champagne

Champagne is from a “phenomenal wine region that speaks for itself in the wine world…” Diego began. So when you have a Champagne tasting party, if you are being faithful to the term, you can’t bring Cava, Prosecco or any other version – even one made in the Champagne method. Simply put, if it’s not from Champagne, France, from an approved area for grape growing, from specific approved grapes and other laws regarding harvest weren’t followed – it can’t be called Champagne.

The name, unfortunately, is associated more with a specific wine style (bubbles) than it is the geographical denomination of AOC Champagne, France. (Note: AOC stands for Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée – the Controlled Name of Origin.)

History of Champagne

Born almost by mistake, by a group of people in a region very far north, battling cold weather – they wanted to take control of their production. Romans planted the first vineyards – everywhere they went – in the 3rd century AD. In Reims, 987 AD, the first king of France was crowned in Reims. Wines were made there, and the region became known for crowning royalty. This is one reason why Champagne wine, and the region, was associated with royalty.

Champagne, by 1500, became a favorite for its elegance due to the bubbles, and continued to be favored by royalty. And another reason for it’s maintaining noble connotation to current day.

The cold climate created a more acidic, sourer, harsh wine. By the 17th and 18th centuries all that changed with Dom Perignon, who dedicated his life to the production of Champagne. (Did you know: Wines were exploding during the second fermentation process. Exorcists were sent to the cellars to do blessings to prevent explosions.) Dom Perignon studied, and eventually “tamed”, a very purposeful method in making Champagne.

By 1887 the word Champagne was fought for as the region’s designated name, and as the controlled denomination. By 1911 the “scale of the crus”, the villages, were counted up and divided by either premier or grand cru villages. This designation system was later abolished.

In 1927 the Champagne zoning was created, and by 1936 the zone was made official. No one, including New York that was making most of the sparkling in the Finger Lakes region, could use the name Champagne on their labels. The seal was created in 1941 for growers, producers, Negotiants – all there to protect the legacy.

About the Champagne Region and the Laws

Unique to Champagne: Dual oceanic and continental climates, with cold winters and warm summers, allowing for a large temperature swing that gives high acidic levels to the wine. While the chalky limestone soil, good for drainage, gives the unique trademark minerality that is discernible on the nose. (The area used to be an ancient seabed.) The area’s vines are on both rolling hills and steep slopes. And finally, Champagne is always at risk of frost at Spring.

Geography: 90 miles from Paris, 39 villages, four main grape growing sub-zone areas. And it’s the northernmost wine grape growing area in all of France.

Varietals: A mixture is still used by some; but the majority is Pinot Noir, followed by Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. You could grow something not designated by the AOC but it is illegal to produce something else and label it Champagne. And the parcels have to be approved to plant grapes.

Pinot Noir is 38% of the production, allowing for backbone and structure to the blend as well as cherry, strawberry, light tannin and color. Pinot Meunier makes up 32% of planting and provides roundness. It’s also frost and freeze resistant, so a necessity.  (Did you know: Meunier means Miller, named so as if a Miller left a dusting of flour on the grapes as that’s how they look.) Chardonnay, giving citrus and fruit flavors, also allow for roundness and creamy qualities, accounts for the remaining 30%.

Pruning, spacing, density of the vines – all of this is regulated by the AOC as well. Manual picking, maximum yield per hector, the minimum degree of ripeness you have to achieve – this is all set by the AOC.

(Part Two will run on this website next Friday, 5/14, and will include the Échelle des Crus rating system, Details, Myths and News and tasting notes for nine Champagnes.)

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

 

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: bubbles, cava, champagne, Chardonnay, climate, color, France, minerals, pinot meunier, Pinot Noir, prosecco, soil, tannins, wine education

Tasting with Emilien Boutillat, Winemaker of Champagne Armand de Brignac and the “Best Blanc de Noirs in the World”

May 5, 2017 by evebushman

What a rare treat it was for me to sample the current releases from Champagne Armand de Brignac, aka “Ace of Spades”, that I had to admit I have never sampled before. This is how it went:

The Stage

The boardroom of the Beverly Hills Hotel was the perfect size for a small group of wine writers, wine store buyers, restauranteurs and sommeliers. The table was set with five engraved tasting glasses, courtesy Armand de Brignac. Winemaker Emilien Boutillat sat in the center. Five metallic bottles, each its own unique glistening color, sat icing in a golden bowl. The lighting was brought up so that we could examine our samples. French bottled water was poured to cleanse our palates. A brunch was set up on the side bar to enjoy after the tasting. Sparkling silver wine buckets would soon be – only slightly – filled with leftovers. But there weren’t many leftovers…

IMG_9648Tasting With Emilien Boutillat

Winemaker Emilien Boutillat grew up in Champagne and worked with some very prestigious wineries in Bordeaux, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, South Africa, New Zealand, Chile and California before settling back down in France. He works now with the lead winemaking team: Jean-Jacques and Alexandre Cattier.

Boutillat said that Armand de Brignac produces “just a drop” of Champagne compared to others; only producing about 100,000 cases of all of their cuvees combined per year. Everything, including the riddling, is done by hand. What matters most is the soil, climate, the right time for harvest, blending and – only using the first press of juice. They have purchased from the same growers – who are now friends – every year for many years. “There are no tricks,” Boutillat commented, “we let the fruit talk.” All of the cuvees are multi-vintages and blends.

 

Brut Gold

40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

The color of pale hay with aromas of green apple, pineapple, cheddar cheese and wet pebbles. On the mouth I got the same flavors, very bright fruit, with the additions of lemon and toast. 99 Eve pts.

 

Rosé

50% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

A beautiful color or rose gold with notes of strawberry, Luxardo cherry and a hint of licorice on the nose followed by flavors of strawberry, limeade, orange zest and a nice long finish. (This was made as a blend, not in the saignée method.) 99 Eve pts.

 

Blanc de Blancs

100% Chardonnay

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

A very pale yellow in color, then a nose of ripe red delicious apple, roasted nuts, lemon-lime and white pepper. On the mouth I got pineapple, white peach, white tea and roasted nuts again. 100 Eve pts.

 

Blanc De Noirs Assemblage Two

100% Pinot Noir

Multi-vintage: 2008, 2009 and 2010

Pale gold in color and aromas of apricots, cream and yes…what everyone noted: peppermint. On the palate that same peppermint was apparent as well as apricot and peach. Also another incredibly long finish. Welcome to the U.S. my pretty friend! 100 Eve pts. (How could I disagree with Fine Champagne Magazine, and TastingBook.com, that named this the best Blanc De Noirs of the year in 2016?)

 

Demi Sec

40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

Straw in color, and a nose of fruit cocktail, cheese corn and Jasmine! In the mouth I was reminded of candied apple and cinnamon toast, and the fruit lingers for another long finish. 98 Eve pts.

 

About Armand de Brignac

“10th and 11th generation champagne growers, Jean-Jacques Cattier and his son, Alexandre, craft the prestige cuvées of Armand de Brignac. Their dream was to create a champagne of the most exceptional quality, that would represent the best of the best from the region, where their family have grown vines for more than 250 years. A group of just 14 highly skilled people touch a bottle of Champagne Armand de Brignac, from pressing the fruit, to the moment the bottles leave the cellars. Each step of the process is led by the human touch, from handpicking the grapes to polishing each bottle and hand-applying French pewter labels. Without the pressures of volume, the team behind Champagne Armand de Brignac focuses on each small detail, to ensure ultimate quality at every step.”

http://armanddebrignac.com/home

https://twitter.com/armanddebrignac

https://www.instagram.com/armanddebrignac/

https://www.facebook.com/ArmanddeBrignac/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: africa, aroma, beverly hills, blending, Bordeaux, bottles, brut, case, champagne, Chardonnay, Chateauneuf du Pape, climate, color, cuvee, finish, flavor, France, grower, harvest, juice, New Zealand, palate, pinot meunier, Pinot Noir, pressing, restaurant, riddling, Rose, soil, sommelier, tasting, tasting notes, vintage, wine education, wine glasses, winemaker

A Week, or More, in Wine Tastings

August 5, 2016 by evebushman

Had a few fun wines to review so sharing a virtual taste with readers this week:

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From Bisol Crede Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G (SRP: $25) is a brilliantly yellow-green colored Prosecco with a fruity bouquet, flavors of green apples and pears and balanced acidity. Crede hails from the steep south-facing hills of Bisol’s vineyards in Valdobbiadene, one of the most prestigious zones for producing Prosecco. The wine is produced from the Glera grape variety together with Pinot Bianco and Verdiso grapes.

Eve’s Tasting Notes, Aromas and Flavors separated by ;

The color of very pale lemon juice with racing tiny bubbles. Peach cobbler, lemongrass, green apple and a hint of candied ginger; green apple again on the palate, Italian lemon ice with a nice palate cleansing acidity. 88 Eve pts.

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From Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve (SRP: $65) 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier – Deep golden hue, showered with long lasting bubbles. Aromas of freshly baked brioche and the richness of roasted coffee beans linger while the palate offers a touch of praline and notes of amber and vanilla.

The Brut Réserve is blended with 40% reserve wines from the Charles Heidsieck cellar, which are an average of 10 years old, adding further depth and complexity.

Eve’s Tasting Notes, Aromas and Flavors separated by ;

Aromas popped right out with the popping of the cork, even before it hit the glass: fresh cut mango, buttered toast, vanilla bean, mild citrus notes; yummy fleshy tropical fruits, white cheddar, lemon zest, medium acidity that lingers on the finish. 91 Eve pts.

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From Masciarelli’s Villa Gemma Bianco IGT (SRP $18): Fruity and flowery with hints of apple, jasmine, and white flower, this refreshing white wine is composed of 80% Trebbiano, 15% Cococcolia, and 5% Chardonnay. With a pale straw yellow color and fine aroma, the Villa Gemma Bianco pairs well with light, flavorful dishes like seafood, cheese, and vegetables — it’s the ideal summer white wine.

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Eve’s Tasting Notes, Aromas and Flavors separated by ;

Color of fine 24k gold, clean and clear in appearance. Orange, mown grass, lemon zest, unsalted butter, talcum powder, sandalwood incense, and…extra virgin olive oil all on the nose; orange and lemon carry over from the aroma to the palate, followed by grapefruit, tart green apple and lime. 89 Eve pts.

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From Grechetto Colli Martani, Montefalco Bianco DOC (SRP approx. $20): Whites made from Grechetto are fresh and intense initially, but have a savory finish on the palate. Trebbiano is full-bodied and has notes of fruit and white flowers. These varieties of grapes are used in whites such as Grechetto DOC Colli Martani, Montefalco Bianco DOC, and Spoleto DOC.

Eve’s Tasting Notes, Aromas and Flavors separated by ;

Pale white florals, green bell pepper, wet concrete, lemon-lime; Lime, lemon, grapefruit and tart orange, 86 Eve pts.

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Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: acidity, aroma, bouquet, brut, bubbles, cellar, champagne, Chardonnay, coffee, color, fruity, Italy, pinot meunier, Pinot Noir, prosecco, Reserve, vineyard, Wine tasting

Tasting With Cellar Master Floriane Eznack from Champagne Jacquart

May 22, 2015 by evebushman

Floriane Eznack, the poised young (30ish) female cellar master and head winemaker at Champagne Jacquart since 2011– not many women have made this jump in Champagne or much of the whole of France – met our group of #LAWineWriters in the beautiful outdoor setting of the Luxe Hotel’s “On Sunset Restaurant” in Brentwood a couple of weeks ago. I was delighted to have been one of the attendees.

Head winemaker of Champagne Jacquart Floriane Eznack talking to the organizer of #LAWineWriters Cori Solomon

Head winemaker of Champagne Jacquart Floriane Eznack talking to the organizer of #LAWineWriters Cori Solomon

“I’m pleased to have you discover or re-discover Jacquard,” Eznack began. Jacquard Champagne is “a young brand, celebrating their 50th anniversary last September.” And with “no rules to follow and I can make my own rules and work for the future of the brand and my successor.”

Eznack said that she works with three other cellar masters and that “the art of champagne is in the blending…and the grape variety dominates the blend.” The weather is “cold most of the year (see my review of the DVD, A Year in Champagne, for more general info) but that’s good for the grape’s acidity…and helps with the grapes and the aging potential.”

We also learned that Eznack, like any winemaker, would be making her mark on the vintage bottles, and clearing the way for more female winemakers to be of demand. Only one other winemaker competed against her for the coveted role of cellar master at Jacquart, and she won the nod. Prior to that she was at “the yellow house” which we knew to be Veuve Cliquot, where she was one of many winemakers under one cellar master.

Now the lady is rooted at the helm.

In a nod to others that work with Jacquart Eznack said, “The grapes are owned by the growers and are our shareholders, all are involved in the process. They are not just suppliers of the grapes. Of about 1,800 growers on 2,400 hectares of vineyards – Champagne Jacquart owns 7% of the total appellation. And there are about 200 workers involved in the wineries.”

And as timed near for lunch and for tasting Eznack commented, “Blending gives you style and aging gives complexity.” Now we were ready to do our own taste test.

 

Eve profile with Jacquard champagne

Me paired with Champagne = happy girl!

Tasting Champagne Jacquart

Aromas and flavors separated by ;

 

NV Brut Mosaique (from the word “mosaic”) The wine is a blend of different wines with the majority being Chardonnay. And as it’s a non-vintage wine that must taste the same from year to year, they use 30% of reserve wines from different years in the blend. Aged four years, well beyond the laws in Champagne, before released.

With aromas of peach, apricot, sweet pink grapefruit, toasted French bread and Brie cheese; bright acidic fruit, cling peaches, white pepper, whipped cream cheese.

 

2006 Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay)

Cheddar and bleu cheeses, Meyer lemon, and a hint of jasmine; like a nice plate of hard cheeses and seeded crackers, with a little lemon acidity to round it off in the finish. Very refreshing and lively with my Ahi Tuna salad.

 

NV Rose

Can be created in Champagne by blending 45% Pinot Noir as a red (macerated grapes for about 10 days and producing a still red wine) then add 34% Chardonnay wine and 21% Pinot Meunier.

Fresh strawberry, pebbly stream, Japanese plum wine; sweet plums, pineapple, peach jam, refreshing acidity again, great balance

 

2006 Vintage Cuvee

50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir

Most aromatic flavor yet, grilled cheese, sourdough toast; same flavors come through in the mouth with the addition of pink grapefruit and lime.

 

Story in photos: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10205538368886010.1073741917.1455706632&type=1&l=6ab6392340

 

From www.Wine.com

30 small families, mainly from the Cote des Blancs where Chardonnay dominates, founded Jacquart, the original “grower champagne”, in 1962. The early days were difficult but the small co-op had a big leader and before long growth and expansion took place.

Jacquart’s ascendancy is a major success story in the history of modern Champagne. By the year 2000 the 30 small grower’s had swelled to a hearty 700 and the company joined the powerful Alliance Group making Jacquart part of the largest land owning grower’s co-op in the region, controlling 7% of the appellation’s total.

Jacquart’s 350 hectare portion of that encompasses sixty separate crus, all rated above 90 (the average is 96). The house style leans toward Chardonnay and emphasizes an intentional low dosage. This results in friendly wines that are fresh and balanced with firm structures and fine flavors.

Champagne Jacquart has built its reputation on delivering value. This model has driven rapid international expansion making Jacquart one of the most visible contemporary Champagne brands. View all Champagne Jacquart Wines

http://www.champagne-jacquart.com/en/welcome

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years.  She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition.  You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: aroma, blending, brut, champagne, Chardonnay, flavor, pinot meunier, Pinot Noir, Rose, vintage, Wine tasting, winemaker

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