Perlis Picks: Limerick Lane

June 3, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

Limerick Lane, while it has been around for a long time, really burst onto the scene when Jake Bilbro acquired the property in 2011 from the Collins Family. The story of the timing of the escrow closing coinciding with bringing in harvest and then the destemmer breaking down is legendary enough that the annual Limerick Lane Hail Mary Syrah is named after it.

Jake Bilbro of Limerick Lane Cellars.

Bursting on the scene is what happened though, with immediate recognition from major wine publications that continue to happen, maybe even at an accelerated rate. Not unexpectedly though, as making great wine seems to run in Jake’s family. Starting with Marietta Cellars, which Jake’s dad Chris named after his great aunt, Jake and his brother Scot have long worked with their father to make delicious affordable wines that everyone can enjoy, growing the winery to 100,000 cases.

[Jake’s other brother Sam, who also worked with father Chris, owns Idlewild Wines, devoted to Italian varietals – I am looking forward to visiting during my next trip to the area. Yet another brother, Lucas, did not get bitten by the wine bug and pursues his own passion as a ballet dancer.]

When Karen and I last visited with Jake, there were not many wines to taste. Success will do that, especially when you are a small winery of only about 4,000 cases. I asked Jake if he planned to expand production given the demand for the Limerick Lane wines, especially with his involvement in last year’s Historic Vineyard Society event and his obvious connection to the great vineyards the organization works to protect. Jake respond that he greatly respects the work that people like Mike Officer of Carlisle and Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock are doing with regard to preserving and sourcing from California great old vineyards. However, notwithstanding the fact that these guys all sell a certain amount of grapes to each other, showcasing the special nature of the Limerick Lane vineyard and the wines it produces is his driving passion and that will be the focus of his time, at least for the foreseeable future.

The vineyards actually consists of fourteen blocks, the oldest dating back to 1910. The Zinfandel blocks are true field blends that also include Alicante Bouschet, Peloursin, Negrette, Mourvedre, Carignane, Syrah and Petite Sirah.

The Russian River Valley sprawls over a large area, and Limerick Lane is at the Northeast corner of it, with hills providing southern and western exposure. The soil is clay and rock, with the clay holding water and the rock providing space for the vines to dig deep. Cool nights and foggy mornings keep the acidity high and the wines vibrant while the warm afternoons allow the development of intense flavors.

Initially planted by the Del Fava family, the property was later purchased by the Collins Brothers in the 1970s. When Mike Collins was ready to sell, he wanted the property to be in good hands, which is why he approached Jake Bilbro. Escrow closed just the day before harvest in 2011. And, to complicate matters, as harvest was wrapping up a few weeks later, the winery’s destemmer broke, with 7 tons of Syrah still to crush. With rain on the way, Jake threw a “Hail Mary” and dumped the grapes, stems attached, into two open top fermenters and hoped for the best.

Personally, I love the complexity that stem inclusion can bring, especially to Syrah. And the Hail Mary bottlings from Limerick Lane live up to this trait. From that year on, Jake has made a Syrah labeled Hail Mary to pay homage to that first vintage. We got to taste the 2014 during our visit and it was great as always.

We also got to taste a few other wines during our visit…

2014 Russian River Zinfandel – from the original vines planted over a hundred years ago. Not your ordinary Zin, the field blend aspect makes this is a complex delicious wine.

2014 Syrah Grenache – it was the 2011 version of this that I raved about along with the RR Zin when I attended Sonoma In The City back a couple of years ago. This continued that tradition.

1910 Block Zin [2014] – You’ll rarely see specific tasting notes from me, but in this case it was just too obvious; it was just like fresh blueberries! Wonderful wine!

2014 Rocky Knoll Zinfandel – another field blend, with Mourvedre and Petite Sirah that give this wine wonderful structure.

These wines get very high scores from the wine publications. Production is small and the wines are very hard to find outside of the tasting room or the mailing list.

I asked Jake what he would like people to know about Limerick Lane. This would have been a perfect opportunity to talk about their great wines and brag about all their great scores and accolades. Instead, he said “Tell them that we’re really nice people. We’re small so we can’t have a lot of people stop by all at once so visitors have to make appointments. But we really do want to see them.”

Go see them. There should be new releases to taste, but don’t wait too long.

Limerick Lane

1023 Limerick Lane
Healdsburg, CA 95448

See photos of our visit to Limerick Lane and others from our trip here: Sonoma County Series.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Wine 101ers Dream Part III: Visiting Bordeaux’s Château Leoville Poyferre

August 7, 2015 by evebushman Leave a Comment

An hour’s drive from Bordeaux’s center is St. Julien – where you will see Châteaux, some directly across the street or next door to one another with vines as far as the naked eye can see. We hit the mother load. We took photos where we could (see Facebook album here.) and even found a cafe tucked behind Château Lynch Bages where I had my first hamburger in two weeks (this trip also included over a week in Paris).

Château Leoville Poyferre

2^nd Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Julien. Léoville is situated in St Julien in the heart of the Médoc. The origin of the domain goes back to the French Revolution, when Léoville was the largest estate in the Médoc. (Appointment courtesy Planet Bordeaux)

Sunrise at Chateau Leoville Poyferre.

Our host, Morgan, explained that St. Julien is a small region of Bordeaux – there are a total of 8,000 Château in Bordeaux! The Medoc area has 200 acres with 23 Château in St. Julien with 19 owners.

They make three wines, the first has the “Château” name on the label, the second is called “Pavillon de Leoville Poyferre” and made with the youngest wines, and the third is named “Château Moulin Riche” from the area the grapes come from.

Notes

The winery makes wine from four grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

The soil is made up of sand, rock and clay. It is very deep and the rocks heat up during the day and “gives back (the heat) at night.”

No one waters the soil.

2009 was a very good vintage as it was good weather for Cabernet that does well in colder weather. (Warmer weather is needed for Merlot.) Robert Parker gave the vintage a 100. 2009 was also a good year, Parker gave it a 98. The 11s and 12s are “classic.”

Petit Verdot leaves have three parts to them while Merlot, Cabernet and Cabernet Franc have five distinct sections.

New meets the old as the visitor’s center is across the courtyard from the original Château.

The Leoville name is attached to three separate Châteaux that were once all the same family, and are now owned by three families since 1840: Le Cases, Barton and Poyferre. Each own between 150 to 200 acres. “An imaginary line separates the estates…and they are friends and not foes.”

The winery has unique temperature-regulated concave stainless steel vats that allow more color and extraction. The vats are different sizes allowing for different varietal yields, no blending is done with the vats.

After de-stemming and two hand sorts the grapes are sorted by a machine that pulls out green and too-small berries that “don’t suit them.” The state-of-the-art computer program photographs the grapes to determine which won’t make the cut. Similar machines are used to sort tomatoes so that only the perfect sized ones are sold in supermarkets.

Wines leave the vats to spend 6 months in oak barrels, then they are blended, and put back into 80% new oak barrels for 12 months. Barrels are only used 1-2 times. They cost 800 Euros new and are usually only worth 50 Euros when they are sold to others for use.

Egg whites, 5 to 6 of them per barrel, are used to clarify the wines and reduce impurities.

They are currently blending the 14s and bottling the 13s. The 13s will remain in bottle for 6 months before sold.

It is the law to allow 3 years from the time of harvest before selling finished bottles. It is also the law that no wine exceeds 15% alcohol.

We saw a kosher vat, the first we’ve ever seen, and most of the kosher wine is exported to New York.

Most wines are sold to English-speaking countries.

The vintages currently thought to be good years are from 2000, 03, 05, 09 and 10.

The Cuvelier family has owned the winery since 1920, their personal cellar collection goes back to 1920 as well.

We tasted:

2011 Pavillon that had bright red fruit, black peppery, young but can be drunk now. 91 Eve points. A 2009 Moulin Riche was considered “the best vintage here” and it was my fave of the three with lush black fruit, smoke, blackberry jam, raisins and good tannins. 94 Eve points. Finally the 08 Château Leoville Poyferre made me think, whoa, was there a fire near the vineyard? GREAT smoke followed by dark plum and even darker chocolate. I’d give it a little age…but you don’t have to! 95 Eve pts.

http://www.leoville-poyferre.fr/

Facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/chateau.leoville.poyferre?fref=ts

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Toscana Restaurant Presents Winemaker Dinner with Joe Davis and Arcadian Winery

March 25, 2015 by evebushman Leave a Comment

A Favorite from the Lompoc Ghetto, Arcadian will Feature Five Wines from the Collection to Pair with the Four Course Tuscan Dinner

WHO: Executive Chef Hugo Vasquez, Wine Director Emily Johnston of TOSCANA, and Winemaker Joe Davis, Arcadian Winery

WHAT: TOSCANA welcomes Joe Davis of Arcadia Winery, who will introduce wines from their exceptional winery in Lompoc, California. The four course Tuscan menu by Chef Hugo Vasquez will be paired with five wines from the collection.

Joe Davis began his winemaking career in the 1980s, opening his own brand in 1996. He has consistently made quality Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah from some of the most prestigious vineyards in the Central Coast. Particularly interesting is the ageability of his wines. He may be releasing 7 year old wines while many Central Coast producers are focusing on wines to be drunk in their youth. Greatly influenced by his role models in Burgundy (namely Domaine Dujac), Davis uses techniques such as stem inclusion and extended barrel aging to make his wines full structured and age worthy. Like a top negociant, Davis knows all the intricacies of the vineyards he uses and keeps detailed logs of each vintage he harvests. Look forward to the 2001 Gary’s Vineyard Syrah which Davis touts as the best wine he has ever made from Gary’s Vineyard.

Traditionally, Arcadian harvests fruit with more modest sugar levels and higher natural acidity than many of their fellow growers. The belief that Arcadian wines will continue to evolve in the bottle for years to come and that this will ultimately produce a more interesting wine is what drives the philosophy of these wines. “I admire Joe Davis’s willingness to take risks,” states Antonio Galloni in his 2013 Vinous Media reviews for Arcadian, continuing, “The intellectual desire to experiment and push the envelope is a quality many of the world’s greatest winemakers share.”

Chef Hugo Vasquez’s Dinner for Spring with Arcadian Wine Pairings

Canape

Cheese and Zucchini Souffle

Ham and Cheese Tartlets

Spinach and Ricotta Tartlets

Arcadian Chardonnay ‘Sleepy Hollow Vineyard’ 2008

Antipasto

Bruschetta with Porchetta and Red and Yellow Bell Peppers

Arcadian Pinot Noir ‘Sleepy Hollow Vineyard’ 2005

Primo Piatto

Risotto with Grilled Cuttlefish, Cherry Tomatoes and Artichokes

Arcadian Pinot Noir ‘Gold Coast Vineyard’ 2008

Secondo Piatto

Grilled Lamb Chops with Herbs and Seasonal Vegetables

Arcadian Syrah ‘Westerly Vineyard’ 2007

Dolce

Assortment of Italian Cheeses and Fresh Fruit

Arcadian Syrah ‘Gary’s Vineyard’ 2001

Wine Director Emily Johnston: photo courtesy of Rob Stark Photography

price $130 per guest all-inclusive, tickets may be purchased by calling Toscana: 310.820.2448

Menu by Executive Chef Hugo Vasquez, Wine Pairings by Sommelier Emily Johnston

WHEN: ONE NIGHT ONLY Tuesday, April 7, 2015, 7:00 p.m.

$130 per guest, inclusive of menu, wines, taxes and gratuities; seating is limited

Winemaker Joe Davis will be present to meet guests and discuss the wines

Reservations may be made by phone with credit card pre-payment

WHERE:

TOSCANA

11633 San Vicente Boulevard, #100

Los Angeles, CA 90049

310.820.2448

ABOUT TOSCANA:

TOSCANA quietly opened in April of 1989 by first time restaurateurs Mike and Kathie Gordon who dreamed of recreating the simple, delicious food and warm, inviting ambiance they found in Italy. TOSCANA’s success exceeded all expectations. The restaurant was quickly discovered and populated by guests who became regulars, dining on exquisite and authentic Italian fare a few times a week for lunch and dinner. Twenty five years later, TOSCANA continues to thrive.

Become a Fan of Toscana on Facebook:

www.facebook.com/ToscanaBrentwood

Follow Toscana on Twitter: @Toscana1989

www.Toscanabrentwood.com

Eve Tours: SCV Custom Crush Services

December 28, 2012 by evebushman 1 Comment

After months of knowing that Pulchella winemakers Nate Hasper and Steve Lemley had built the first crush pad in Santa Clarita, and not being able to release the news, I was chomping at the bit to get in there and check it out.

It finally happened. I got all of my questions answered, and then some, when my editor Michael Perlis and I had our tour. And if you just want the basics, click here for the news release. If not, here’s the full skinny:

First, for my wine 101ers: What is a crush pad? It’s a winemaking facility to which the grapes are transported after harvest, the stems and leaves are removed, the grapes are crushed and then all of the stages of fermentation – turning juice into wine – are closely managed by the winemakers.

Steve Lemley

In this case the winemakers are UC Davis-educated and bring a wealth of knowledge, and love, to the process.

“We’ve crushed 50 tons total since we opened.” Steve began. “But it’s been a long haul. The city was very supportive, happy that we were building the facility. However with the health department we hit all red tape and walls. The health department does not have a winery specific category so being forced to be categorized generically required us to implement tens of thousands of dollars in unnecessary and not industry standard requirements to open. Never the less, Santa Clarita has a hospital grade winery now… We worked together to complete the project.”

And why do it? Why not continue picking your grapes in Paso Robles and crushing there? Because they live here. “We couldn’t be watching over the process every single day so that meant we couldn’t make the wine the way we wanted to. We were clients in a crush pad long enough to learn how to do it.”

“Now we can keep track daily…of the brix (sugar) levels, when we may want to add yeast in during the fermentation process, basically be more proactive. We have our books, charts and a full lab right here.”

So, what’s in the future? For now Steve and Nate are taking in their own clients and helping them make their wines. They are also planning events in the crush pad – a New Year’s Eve Party being the first. And, very shortly, they will be opening another first in Santa Clarita.

“We will be expanding. We will be building a full service beer and winemaking store early in the new year complete with a showroom and plenty of supplies.” (Chomping at the bit now to see that!)

From Website:

A Tremendous Passion For Wine…

Family owned and operated, Pulchella Winery is focused on hand producing very small quantities of extracted, intense and unique, ultra premium wines. We spare no expense in sourcing the highest quality, deeply rooted and dry farmed grapes that offer a true reflection of the calcareous shale terroir that Paso Robles’s west side cult style wines are famous for.

Our westside vineyards benefit from hot sunny days and ocean breeze influenced evenings. We hand harvest in low yields, and whole berry ferment in small open top bins and age exclusively in French and American oak barrels. We believe this approach produces wines that are rich and concentrated in flavor, texture and complexity.

Producing under 1000 cases a year of Grenache, Syrah, Rhone Blends, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Reserve Blends, our wines are kept in their truest form to allow the vineyards characteristics to shine.

Open:
Wed-Friday 5pm to 10pm.
Saturday 12pm to 10pm.
http://www.pulchellawinery.com/

About Pulchella Winery:

After many years of perfecting their craft at making boutique wines separately, our two winemakers Nate Hasper and Steve Lemley blended their skills and Pulchella Winery was born in 2006.

Every lot produced is done so in very small quantities in order to allow the selected vineyards characteristics to take center stage. We truly believe that there is just as much passion in small vineyard management as boutique wines and this collective passion is what produces world class wines.

Many guests ask us what the word Pulchella means… While Nate and Steve were busy with harvest duties in 2006, they were visited by a dragonfly late one fall evening and the antics of the dragonfly in the winery touched them both enough to name the newly born winery after the species of dragonfly that visited them that night.

Pulchella (Libellula pulchella) is a common North American skimmer dragonfly, found in the cental coast wine regions and many other locations within the contiguous U.S. states. It is a large species, at 50 mm (2.0 in) long. Each wing has three black or brown spots. In adult males, additional white spots form between the brown ones and at the bases of the hindwings; it is sometimes called the Ten-spot Skimmer for the number of these white spots.

Rusty Sly on Carbonic Fermentation

October 29, 2012 by evebushman 2 Comments

During our last meeting of Grape of the Night (GOTN) in September 2012 the group tasted and learned about a wine called Gamay Beaujolais. One of the points that I commented on was about a different fermentation process used in the Gamay region of France called carbonic fermentation. This process creates wines that have fruity aromatics and are light in style compared to wines that have gone through the usual fermentation process; and involves fermentation of whole grape clusters including the stems.

A similar process is used in wines from the Republic of Georgia where the grapes, stems, etc are placed into amphoras and crushed. The difference with carbonic fermentation is that the grapes are not crushed. Allowing the stems to be included in the fermentation process creates a wine that is high in tannins and sometimes green bell pepper aromatics.

One grape that is not always crushed is pinot noir. This allows for a more aromatic wine based on what is termed a partial carbonic maceration process. Fermenting with the stems is traditional in Burgundy wines from France and has increased in 2008 and 2009 vintages. Since this technique increases the tannin level, it is probably the reason that French Burgundy wines age well beyond their American counterparts.

The process of carbonic fermentation is very unique and involves placing the whole grape clusters with their stems carefully into a vat forming layers of grape clusters. I am sure that everyone that has picked up a grape cluster at your local market can realize how much weight or force is being applied to the grapes on the bottom of the vat. This causes some of the grapes at the bottom to be crushed just due to the weight. Next, carbon dioxide is added into the vat to remove the oxygen. This allows for fermentation to occur within the grape skin delaying the activity of the yeast. This is the key difference from normal fermentation. The fermentation occurs naturally within the grapes. As the grape ferments within the skin, the internal pressure from carbon dioxide gas production along with the weight of the grapes piled into the vat causes the grapes to burst and release their juice. This kind of fermentation process creates ethanol as well as fantastic fruit aromatics.

This process is used extensively in the Beaujolais region where very fruity aromatics in light bodied wines are produced. The stems do add high tannins however, the process used in the Beaujolais region are geared around quick turnaround wines. This is very evident in Beaujolais Nouveau wines.

Cheers,
Rusty Sly