Eve's Wine 101

Taste of Sta. Rita Hills with Antonio Moretti

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During a recent trip to the Lompoc Ghetto (see story in the Oct/Nov issue of Elite magazine) the first ghetto room owner that I interviewed, with 30 years of experience in the wine business, was Antonio Moretti.

Moretti said that he “moved here for the wine that is produced here,” with a special nod to the western side as it’s more European in style.   The “unique flavors that remind me of Europe, a little Burgundy.  Each vineyard has its own flavor. It’s not the winemaker, it’s the grapes that are unique in flavor.”

Sign at Taste of Sta Rita HillsThen I watched and listened as Moretti described each wine, winery, winemaker, appellation…etc., of every wine he poured.  The attention to detail, and his obvious passion to the task, were forefront.  I could not help but comment that I had not experienced such devotion – to other winemakers – from the people that have poured for me in other winery collective tasting rooms.

As I took diligent notes as Moretti spoke, my own tasting notes were lacking.   If Moretti hadn’t been so interesting the case may have been opposite.  But I believe you will gain more from his knowledge than my own meager one in comparison.  But, as I couldn’t resist, I pulled out one descriptor for every wine I tasted that grabbed me – like an inkblot test and I wrote down the first thing that came to mind.

Tasting Sta. Rita Hills

Moretti Bianchetto, 2011: This is what Moretti drinks at home.  He said it was light, dry, crisp and focused; and good with food.  The grapes are picked earlier, which allows for the 12 percent alcohol.  Moretti likes lower alcohol for two reasons: he can drink it throughout a meal and the wines have brighter acidity because the fruit was not overripe when picked.  The bright acidity “keeps the palate clean.”  All house wines are low alcohol in Europe, Moretti said, but as Americans want a glass of wine to stand alone there is traditionally more alcohol and less acidity in our wines here.  My one descriptor: Lychee.

El Rey Pinot Noir 2011: Susan and Derek McLeish own the winery.  It is a small production farm in a micro climate area about a mile from the Sta. Rita Hills AVA border.  They only give their Garagiste wines to the tasting room to sell, according to Moretti, whatever they haven’t consumed themselves.  They have full bodied fruit from their vineyards, and the cooler nights creates a thicker skinned grape and darker colored wine.  My one descriptor: Cinnamon.

Seagrape Pinot Noir, Jump Up Vineyard, 2010: The winery has nothing to do with Buttonwood but Karen Steinwachs, the winemaker at Buttonwood, is the owner and sole winemaker at Seagrape.  She used two to three year old barrels and blended grapes from two different vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills.  Moretti said the wine was both drinkable and age-able, and a typical example of a Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir.  He said that the east AVA area makes a unique Pinot Noir that stands alone, while the western AVA needs food.  He added that this Pinot was a good pairing wine; and with duck or boar, the wine blooms.  My one descriptor: Cherry.

Ken Brown Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills Cuvee 2010: Moretti said that this wine was good with food and could also stand alone as it was balanced, and grown from the warmer side of Sta. Rita Hills.  Brown used 50% Rio Vista fruit (which gives the fruit-forward impact because it is warmer there), and the balance comes from two cooler weather spots – Rancho La Vina and Rita’s Crown.  With 2012 Ken will be bottling a single vineyard Pinot Noir from Rita’s Crown,- and Moretti suggests we try that.   My one descriptor: Cherry.

Kessler-Haak Syrah, Lafond Vineyard 2010: Moretti said that they purchased the fruit from Lafond.  As this one had higher acidity Moretti sent his assistant out to bring us back some Italian salami to try with it.  The salami “reduces acid and the flavor pops” Moretti said.  It would be good with BBQ or steak.  A north Rhone style grape grown in cooler weather, again producing thicker skin and more pigmentation.  My one descriptor: Red fruit.

Cebada, Forbidden Fruit Libation: Cebada is a farm (Forbidden Fruit Orchards) in a unique micro-climate, and grows berries, bananas, guava, kiwi, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Moretti finds owner Sandra Newman’s port-style blueberry wine interesting winemaking – as it tastes like port.  She aged the berries in French barrels, adds sugar and brandy (making it fortified) but no grapes.  I thought this one required a longer one descriptor: needs-a-pancake.

Gypsy Canyon, Ancient Vine Angelica, Marcelina’s Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills: This is a fortified dessert wine, and according to Moretti it’s between a Madeira and a Sauterne.  He suggested that we pair it with cheese.  The Franciscans in the San Gabriel Mission began making this wine in 1771.  My one descriptor: Intense.

Moretti at Taste of Sta Rita HillsAbout The Tasting Room(s)

Taste of Sta. Rita Hills* is a wine tasting room and retail store located in the Lompoc Wine Ghetto owned by Antonio Moretti and dedicated to representing local producers who do not have tasting rooms regularly open to the public: The current list of wineries they represent are: Clos Pepe, Seasmoke, Brewer-Clifton, Gypsy Canyon, El Rey, Thorne, Ken Brown, Walt, Seagrape, Ryan Cochrane, Cebada Forbidden Fruit, Dolina, Kessler-Haak, Rarus, Kita’ and Moretti.

And when you are there, make a point of visiting with Moretti’s wife, Jeni, at the Moretti Wines’ tasting room a ghetto-block away.  “At Moretti, we are dedicated to producing well-balanced, food-friendly wines in a European tradition.”

(*Editor’s note: The abbreviation of Santa Rita Hills into Sta. Rita Hills is the accepted title of the AVA.)

Some French Wines that are a Must Try

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Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Ivelisse Negroni.  We are in the small historical town of Samur in the French region of Pays de la Loire. This area is renown for its chateaus and of course, their wine. From our patio table, we have a lovely view of the plaza square. We are enjoying a bottle of Pouilly Fume. This is an excellent white wine with one major drawback. It is only sold within the immediate province. We have been recalling some of our favorite wine stories. One that I particularly like to recount took place some years ago, while I was a distributor in California. I was tasting Chilean wines with the head wine buyer at one of Los Angeles’ leading wine retailers when Carlton, one of the store’s sales reps, approached Esteban and I with a question.

“I have a question,” Carlton’s tone was one of uncertainty. “My customer is looking for a bottle of wine, but she can’t remember the name.”

“It is the wine that is so popular with the ladies for lunch,” she was quick to break in.

Esteban and I turned to the customer in question, and without hesitation replied, “Rombauer.”

“You guys are great! All three of you,” she took Carlton by the arm. “Please find me a bottle.”

Once he was free, Carlton returned to thank us for our help. “How did you guys know which wine she wanted?”

As head wine buyer, it is my responsibility to have readily available those wines that our customers enjoy,” Esteban was first to reply.

“Gregory, surely this wine is not your palate, so how did you know?” Carlton queried.

“It is inconsequential what is or isn’t my palate. Frankly, preference is subjective,” I chuckled under my breath as I paused for effect. “Like Esteban, I must know what people like, yet encourage them to take a step outside the box, and try new and different styles of wines.”

I often share this story, not to praise Esteban or myself, I share it because we inspired Carlton to open his mind to new ideas. Today, Carlton is a sommelier in one of LA’s most cutting-edge fusion restaurants. Much too often people pigeon-hole their palates and continue to drink the same wines, day in, and day out.

Not to mention those people who get caught up in “the wine of the moment.” Much too often we find ourselves seeking only those mainstream labels because we fancy ourselves chic. When I come home to Los Angeles for a visit, I notice that my family and friends are quick to serve California wines. In Europe, not much changes. People are quick to serve local popular wines.  Even in my own household, I am quick to pop open a bottle of Italian or Georgian wine.

One of the things that I most enjoy while exploring the wines of any country, is rediscovering those priceless gems that I have not enjoyed for awhile. France is a perfect example. There are so many styles of wine that are relatively unknown outside of the country. France has a long history of viticulture that predates the Romans so it is interesting to and fun to explore their wine traditions. Here are a few gems that are readily available on the international market. I highly recommend you hold off on that bottle of Chardonnay, step out of the box, and have a bit of summer fun with these varietals.

MauzacMauzac is a very popular grape varietal in Southwestern France, and prevails in the regions of Gaillac and Limoux. Locally it is known as Mauzac Blanc. In Gaillac, there is a move to produce more wines of quality to increase their exports. Typically, producers in Gaillac have used Mauzac to make aromatic sparkling wines that are soft and mildly sweet on the palate. While in Limoux, Mauzac is often used in blending. The popular Blanquette de Limoux, blends Mauzac with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc to create this renown style of wine. Mauzac is ever prestigious with the French and is one of the few white grape varietals that is allowed to be blended with Bordeaux.

Ivelisse selected as our first wine of the tasting, Robert & Bernard Plagoles Mauzac Nature Sparkling 2010. In the glass, our Mauzac  is slightly cloudy with only gentle bubbles. The nose is delicate with prevailing scents of citrus. On the palate, it is off dry, textured, and balanced. There are generous amounts of apple and pear that round out its flavor profile. There is a beautiful and natural acidity that finishes with a kiss of sweetness. The alcohol content is 12% with a price tag of $45.

“Most people are not aware that Mauzac actually predates Champagne, and was first produced in Gaillac in the 16th century,” I spoke in a tone that was matter of fact. “Perhaps you should also explain to our readers the method for making this style of wine.”

“But of course,” Ivelisse smiled with antication. “It is known as Methode Gaillacoise or Methode Rurale. Quite simply, the wine is put into the bottle before it has fermented dry. It is this continued fermentation process that gives the wine its bubbles.”

“I find Mauzac to be a very enjoyable sparkling wine and very different from Champagne.”

“For me, Mauzac works best when served as an aperitif,” Ivelisse smiled as she poured us both another glass.

Ugnic Blanc is a varietal that prevails throughout southern France. In Languedoc and Provence, winegrowers like it for its freshness. It is often used as a base for many blends dry white wines. It is distinguishable by its banana aroma. In Cognac, it is known as “Saint-Emillon,” and the predominant grape varietal in making fine brandies.Ugni Blanc

Ivelisse selected a La Cadence ugnic Blanc 2012. In the glass, it is a glossy pale yellow. On the nose, there is a distinct freshness in the bouquet. The prevailing aromas are blooming flowers and citrus fruits. On the palate, our Ugni Blanc is quite lively. There are notes of herbs and apples and the wine’s soft texture is followed by a vibrant and fresh finish. The alcohol content is 11% with a price tag of $10.

“I enjoyed the liveliness of this Ugni Blanc,” Ivelisse’s eyes brightened as she smiled.“ Very  refreshing.”

“I liked its finish,” I paused, moistening my lips.“ Quite flavorful.”

“Since this wine is zesty and refreshing, I would pair it with flaky fish,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “In this way, the wine will balance the delicate fish flavor.”

Bourgogne Aligote is a light white wine that is often referred to as “Burgundy’s other white grape.” It is beloved by the local people, and since it does not age all that well, many enjoy Aligote as their daily drinker.

Ivelisse chose an A & P Domaine de Villaine Bouzeron 2010. This is a great summer wine. In the glass, it is a light straw color and displays an enticing liveliness. On the nose, it blooms with the scent of fresh flowers, apples, and lemons. There is also a very slight hint of chalk. On the palate, it is crisp and acidic, with a very nice balance of fruit, herbs, and minerals. This charming wine finishes with nice acidity and beckons you to drink more. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $25.

Bougogne Aligote“Definitely the best example of Burgundian Aligote,” I gave a nod of approval. “If we we order shellfish for dinner, this is the wine.”

“Definitely a very good wine that is enjoyable and easy to drink,” Ivelisse paused slightly. “I would serve Aligote as an aperitif. It would also pair nicely with cheese.”

“What cheeses would you select?” I queried.

“I would serve Charolais or Maconnais,” Ivelisse flashed me an almost too delightful smile.

“On that note, I’m famished.” I gave her a quick nod and a wink. “Where shall we eat?”

“I know a quaint little café within walking distance that I am sure you will enjoy,” she smiled brightly.

So did we pair Aligote with shellfish or did Ivelisse win out and we enjoyed the wine as an aperitif … “That my friends, is another story.”

Vouvray: The Flagship Chenin Blanc

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The Loire Valley has been producing wines ever since the Romans settled the region back in the 1st century. By the 5th century, Loire had flourished into a premier viticultural region whose wines were highly prized throughout the ancient world. During the Middle Ages, it is interesting to point out that the wines of Loire were more highly prized than their contemporaries from Bordeaux.

Marc BredifToday I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Ivelisse Negroni. We are in the city of Tours to enjoy some of the region’s local wines. Whenever I am asked to recommend a sweeter white wine, Vouvray immediately comes to mind. However, though fruit forward, not all Vouvray is sweet. This “Right Bank“ wine ranges in styles from dry and austere to the richest dessert wines as well as excellent sparkling wines. Vouvray, “Pineau de la Loire,” as it is known to the French, is made exclusively from Chenin Blanc.
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So what makes Vouvray so special? It simply has a remarkably long life. Wines of quality that have been cellared for 30 years often show incredible freshness and liveliness.

Our first selection, Marc Bredif Vouvray 2010 is a very stylish wine. In the glass, this slightly effervescent wine is a light straw yellow. On the nose, it displays an intense fruitiness that is filled with notes of white flowers. The palate is filled with the flavors of apricots, nectarines, and honeydew, while the over all juiciness of the wine prevails. There is also a secondary trace of almonds that I found pleasant. Though the wine’s fruity characteristics prevail, it finishes dry and clean. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $20.

“Marc Bredif is very nice on a warm summer evening,” Ivelisse flashed a quick grin as she spoke in her usual light tone. “This is an ideal match for white fish or sushi.”

“I particularly enjoyed this wine’s mouthfeel and found the finish to be lingering and pleasant,” I would even consider pairing it with baked ham.”

Our next selection, Francois Chidaine Les Argiles Vouvray 2011 is bright and lively in the glass. On the nose, it is filled with citrus fruits dominated by orange blossoms. There are also subtle herbal hints with a pleasurable nuttiness. On the palate, the mouthfeel is on the drier side with clean lines and fresh acidity. It is complex and filled with an array of minerals. The finish is long and fruity. It is 100% Chenin Blanc and from 40 year old certified organic vines from the Loire Valley. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“This wine will pair best with mild poultry dishes,” Ivelisse paused to collect her thoughts. “As for fish, perhaps the best choice would be halibut.”Les Argyles

“Definitely a wine that will age gracefully,” I clearly displayed my pleasure with her selection.

Our last wine, Domaine S.A Huet 2007 is more dry than medium and is wonderfully concentrated. In the glass, its coloring is golden and depicts the “Old World” style. On the nose, the bouquet is filled with an assortment of citrus fruits with lemon and lime prevailing. There are also floral, green-apple, and mineral notes. On the palate, there are abundant flavors of honey, spice, lemon, and sweet pear. It is a wine that is bright and vivid in character. I also found it to be a well- integrated wine with an elegant and long finish. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $60.

“Excellent wine,” Ivelisse flashed me a wide beaming grin. “Definitely pairs well with chicken, fish, and shellfish.. I especially enjoy it with scallops.

“I like the subtle nuances of this wine. One to sip and enjoy,” I nodded in agreement. I would share this fine 2007 on a quiet evening at home with that very special person.”

“For such an evening, I would pair Vovray with cheese,” Ivelisse paused on the moment to collect her thoughts. “I should think, Cabecou, Camembert, Crottin de Chavignot, and Livarot.”

S.A. Huet“All would pair nicely,” I patted her hand lightly.

“Is that a hint?” Ivelisse giggled softly.

But that my friends, is a different story …”

Gregory Alonzo: Italian Whites to Beat those Summertime Blues

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A few years ago, my favorite Russian pop singer, Zhanna Friske had a hit song entitled, “Somewhere it is Summer.” For those who have never traveled to the north of Russia, Finland, or Scandinavia, these peoples live for and worship the sun. For those of us living in more Mediterranean climates, we simply look for ways to beat the heat.

The best remedy I know for the summertime blues … wine. However, which wine would a be a more apropos question. We are all quick to reach for our favorite whites wines. Today I am going to challenge  you to reach a little further, and try something new.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia lies in the northeastern region of Italy. Just south of Austria and west of Slovenia, one can find the widest array of white wines in fact, more than in any other part of the country. In this region of gentle rolling hills and alluvial soils, such indigenous grape varietals as Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Verduzzo abound.

Today we ventured to the renown mountain resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Italy’s most famous mountain destination is affectionately called “the Queen of the Dolomites.   I am once again joined by long-time friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto. After a long day of hiking, we have returned to the town of  Belluno for some wine and refreshment.

Angoris_Friulano“Did you know that we Italians call Belluno “the Gateway to the Dolomites?” Serena smiled as she poured us each a glass of wine.

“It seems only fitting.”

Our first selection, Friulano is among Italy’s best white grapes. Serena selected a La Tenutade Angoris 2011. At first glance it is evident that this is a special wine. Our Friulano is a rich gold in color.  On the nose, an intensity of peach and apricot opens the bouquet of this fragrant wine. On the palate, the rich stone fruit is supported by the wine’s overall density and creamy texture.
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The rich fruit eventually gives way to a silky finish. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“I love the beautiful white peach aromas,” Serena’s eyes brightened as she smiled. “This wine will go nicely with the steamed shellfish and seafood pasta that I ordered.”

“I should also think that it would equally pair as well with white meat.”

“For those who like aromatic wines,” Serena paused for effect. “Friulano is a must.”

Serena picked a Malvasia Istriana as our next selection. The varietal actually originates from the Croatia’s Istria Peninsula. Over the past few years, this popular grape has been planted in select regions of northeastern Italy. To date, they have shown great promise.

“It is believed that Malvasia first made its way into Italy via Venetian traders,” Serena paused to collect her thoughts. “It is not an easy grape to grow because it has large vigorous clusters, and yields must be controlled.”

Serena had selected a Sirch Malvasia 2011. On the eye it is light gold in color, reminding one of melon.Malvasia

The bouquet is of zesty citrus fruit, and on the palate, there is a most enjoyable crisp intensity. This is a very clean wine that is filled with bright notes of green melon and lime. The finish is also very clean and crisp. This is the perfect summer wine when lounging poolside or enjoying the view from the veranda. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $20.

“Definitely a wine to be shared with guests,” Serena smiled softly.

“What dishes pair best with this style of Malvasia?” I queried.

“Definitely grilled fish,” she paused on the moment. “I often serve Sirich Malvasia with brill flatfish baked with capers, olives, and cherry tomatoes.”

Our next selection hailed from Italy’s mountainous north. Pinot Bianco is clearly an expression of the Alpine breezes that have shaped and balanced a mildly fragrant wine. This is a grape that thrives in cool climates. Serena selected a Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2011. On the eye, it is a soft straw color. The nose is layered with pineapple, pear, melon, and a hint of exotic fruits. Our 2011 showed very nice structure. It is an elegant wine with fruity flavors that are a bit playful on the mouth. The finish shows good, and memorable length. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

245683“I like to serve Pinot Bianco with Risotto with golden apples, and chopped pieces of speck,” Serena smiled brightly.

“I can see that,” I nodded in agreement. “The sweetness of the apple would nicely contrast the saltiness of the cured meat.”

Our last wine, Ribolla Gialla, enjoys an almost cult-like appeal with aficionados. Though popular today, Ribolla Gialla dates back to the 13th century. To add to the wine’s allure, vintners have conjured everything from light sparkling styles to thickly extracted whites that can be cellared for lengthy periods. On the one side, vintners produce acidic, easy-drinking wines that abound in flowers and citrus fruits. On the other end of the spectrum, vintners like Josko Gravner reign supreme. Truly the lord of the realm, Gravner is known to prefer the grape’s pulpy fruit and thick skins. Through long macerations and aging in clay amphorae, Gravner produces wines that are golden caramel in color and richly structured on the palate.

Serena selected a Gravner Amfora Ribolla Gialla 2005. On the eye, the wine’s striking copper-orange color heightens curiosity. There is an almost luminous brightness that defies the wine’s age. Gravner has chosen to mature his Ribolla Gialla in clay amphorae. On the nose there intense aromas of resin, pine nut, caramel, graham cracker, and candied fruit. It is rich, complex, and well-structured with a powerful fruit profile. The finish is long and memorable. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $120.

“I know you love Gravner’s wines,” Serena lightly stroked my arm. “His Ribolla Gialla is definitely your palate.”images

“The 2005 is indeed a wine that can be enjoyed now or cellared another 10-20 years,” I paused for effect. “Gravner has produced a white wine that will eventually drink like a fine Barolo.”

“I especially love pairing Ribolla Gialla and pumpkin risotto with chopped rosemary sprinkled with shavings of smoked caciotta cheese,” Serena’s tone was one of great delight.

“Well, on that note,” I nodded in agreement. “Let’s order dinner.”

“But that my friends, is another story …”

Cab Collective Part One: Stopping for Rhones at Terry Hoage, Checking in to Sundance B & B, Barrel Tasting, Dining with Steve Heimoff and New Friends

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Making the most of my two-day Paso Robles media pass to cover the inaugural Cab Collective, I planned to attend four media events. However, arriving a wee bit early for the first, I stopped in to visit with Terry Hoage and taste some Rhones before the all-Cab/Bordeaux blends.

NFL winemaker Terry Hoague, and Eve!

During our interview, first with Terry and then with his assistant tasting room manager Evan Vossler, we learned that Jennifer Hoage “has complete control” as the winemaker for the whites and roses, and Terry does the reds. With that said, Evan added that Jennifer’s influence in blending with Terry, allows for two palates to influence the wine. Evan called it, “a balance of power and elegance.”

The wine club, currently still open, allows its 1300 members to select 6 or more bottles per year. In the future, it may be club purchases only, limited tasting room purchases and some availability in local restaurants.  Terry has the same 26 acres, and has no desire to be bigger, as “more money equals more problems.”  With the 2000 cases he produces he still will sell some fruit to others.

Right now, according to Terry, they must monitor their wine inventory or would have nothing in the tasting room.  They bottle in June, and send the wine to club members before it’s even in the tasting room.

If you visit the tasting room, say hello to Evan Vossler, or tasting room managers Kelly Balentine or Kathryn Welsh.

Terry Hoage Vineyards 2010 Release Tasting Flight (Released last fall, new oak influences increase by the end of the line-up. And yes, I wanted to buy everything I tasted.)

2010 “The Pick” Grenache Cuvee: Juicy, raspberry, plum and smoke.

2010 “The 46” Grenache-Syrah: Dark jam and vegetal influences.

2010 “5 Blocks” Syrah Cuvee: Balanced fruit (cherry to plum), pepper and tannins.

2010 “The Hedge” Syrah: Inky dark, flavored like a jalapeno-fruit jam.

2006 “Skins” Grenache Reserve: Milk chocolate, dark fruit compote on toast, concentrated, port flavors, and finish that lingers.

2010 “Three-Four” Syrah: Pepper, black cherry, great balance.

Sundance B and B has Vines in View!

Sundance owners- Alma Ayon and Neil Tootill

Only ten minutes from Windfall Farms (the latest venue for large wine events, weddings and more) the new Sundance Bed & Breakfast has quite a bit to offer: Small things like having a coaster and a water bottle on the night table was framed by beautiful furnishings in large airy rooms, expansive views from the second story guest rooms, huge closets paired with large comfy robes, large bathrooms with sweet-smelling aromatherapy soaps and lotions, rooms with adjoining suites if needed, a large patio, a lush green lawn and rose bushes, and deck chairs with umbrellas to view the vines and running gophers.

Owners Alma Ayon and Neil Tootill were friendly and accommodating.  In showing us around the house they took pride in highlighting the work of local artists. Double barn doors had been placed on rolls to quietly slide open and the same craftsman is building their dining tables – to be ready for a planned July 1 opening!

When we came down for breakfast, Barkley, their terrier mutt, promptly rolled over onto his back, expectantly waiting to have his tummy rubbed if guests descend on his home.

For breakfast we began with nice strong Starbucks coffee, muffins, and fresh fruit. Alma asked us about dietary restrictions before making our finale: warm, flavorful breakfast sandwiches.

From the dining room we could see older grape vines in the background of newer vines that Neil has planted. He said that in three years they will have their first vintage, but they’re only planning on selling their grapes, not winemaking…yet.

“They should build restaurants out here next,” Alma pondered. “That’s what we need. And we are the closest to Windfall Farms for those travelers coming in for an event.”

Sounded sweet to me.

En Primeur 2012 Barrel Tasting in the Park Ballroom

The Park Ballroom, right in downtown Paso on Park Street, was set up with empty wine barrels to use as pouring stations on the perimeter with plenty of pour out buckets – and as most of the wines had only been in oak for 4-6 months (and had 18 or more months to go) the buckets were a necessity.

It was hard to discern what the Cabs and Bordeaux blends would later taste like as they were astringent and/or very fruity at this stage, so needles to say I was looking forward to tomorrow’s tasting event with same producers and their bottled vintages.

Eve and Scott Shirley, winemaker Justin

What was helpful at this event, and what I would find most of the weekend, was that many of the winemakers came to pour and explain their wines.

It seemed that by the end of the tasting, the barrel samples seemed more appreciated. My husband Eddie commented that you had to “use your imagination to figure out how they will taste when they’re done.”

The barrel samples were from ADELAIDA Cellars, B & E Vineyard, Chateau Margene, DAOU Vineyards & Winery, Eberle Winery, Hammersky Vineyards, J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, Jada Vineyard, JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery, L’Aventure, Parrish Family Vineyards, Record Family Wines, Robert Hall Winery, Sextant Wines, Venteux and Vina Robles.

BBQ at Robert Hall Winery, Eve Interviews Steve Heimoff and More

Yes, your nervy wine 101er walked straight up to Steve Heimoff, the writer with the plum job as West Coast Editor of Wine Enthusiast Magazine, and said hello while sipping library wines at the BBQ hosted by Robert Hall Winery. Then, of course, I joined his table for dinner paired with library and reserve wines from Eberle, Daou and Justin. These are the people that sat with us and agreed to my request to go around the table to tell us about themselves:

Steve Peck, the red winemaker for J. Lohr Vineyards and Wine, confessed to being the “wallflower” that appreciated my…err…style. Steve has a degree in chemical engineering and studied fermentation sciences, both at UC Davis. He met his wife in Belgium and the two are happy parents of a four-year-old boy. One thing I learned from Steve is that he felt that I should educate my palate further by doing more barrel tastings. The Bordeaux futures we buy, according to Peck, are based on ratings from barrel tastings.

Eve at BBQ with J. Lohr winemaker Steve Peck

Richard Jennings, in from northern California, is a wine writer with a weekly column in the Huffington Post, a “favorited” contributor to CellarTracker.com, Snooth and his own website, RJonWine.com. I had first noticed Richard earlier in the evening, writing lots of tasting notes on a heavy pad.

Marketing Consultant Tim McDonald, started in the wine industry in Honolulu 25 years ago: working with E & J Gallo, Trinchero, Seagrams and others. Check him out here: WineSpokenHere.com

Eva Swan introduced her husband Fred, of NorCalWine.com, as someone with a wealth of wine education and experience. Though both have Wine & Spirits Education Trust certifications, Fred has further obtained the “Echansonnerie des Papes, the honorary organization of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine region.” He is also a free lance wine writer and educator at the San Francisco Wine School.

Besides being the West Coast Editor of Wine Enthusiast Magazine, Steve Heimoff, of SteveHeimoff.com, is a wine enthusiast, blogger and book author. Heimoff came to California in 1978 for grad school. His moment with wine came when he was in the wine grocery aisle with his cousin selecting a wine for the evening’s BBQ. It was his first night in California, and he prompted his cousin to just “pick a bottle.” His cousin corrected him to not just grab a bottle.

top row l-r: Tim McDonald, Richard Jennings, Eve, Steve Peck. bottom l-r: Eva and Fred Swan, Steve Heimoff, Gina DeGirolamo

By 1979 Heimoff “got bit by the wine bug” back when “wine was not big at all.” Reagan was in the White House, Heimoff was in grad school, carrying a briefcase and wearing a suit and tie.

Three years later things “ended badly” and Heimoff went home. “I thought I cannot do this again” so he took his love of writing and his love of wine, and as a subscriber to Wine Spectator, he sent then-editor Jim Gordon his résumé.

Heimoff got nothing but a thank you from Gordon.  “The first rule for a teacher, is don’t stop,” Heimoff began. “I had my foot in door, and so I kept pestering Jim via phone, and he came to me one day and offered me an assignment:  Harvey Steinman needed me at Meadowood to cover him.  I wrote a great article and got the job.”

As a freelancer the entire time at Wine Spectator, Heimoff got a reputation and people began asking for him. However, as Heimoff was a free lancer and writing for other publications, “Marvin, bless his soul, said you can’t write for someone else.  Marvin listened, but, Marvin said (via someone else) Heimoff will have a great career, but not at Wine Spectator.” Heimoff immediately called Adam Strum, the editor of Wine Enthusiast – and that was 21 years ago.

“Very much like all of you all” began Gina DeGirolamo, “I started out 25 years ago.” DeGirolamo worked in a New York commercial production com

pany, then in the Los Angeles film industry working with major television networks covering dramas, comedies, etc. Growing sick of the Hollywood lifestyle, DeGirolamo moved to Paso, took a break, and then went back to her love of the camera and began her company, Cinema e Vino Productions.

Stay tuned next Friday to read, “Cab Collective Part 2: Seminar and Tasting.”

Paso Robles CAB Collective

Formed in 2012, the Paso Robles CAB (Cabernet and Bordeaux) Collective (PRCC), strives to promote the full potential of the Paso Robles AVA in producing superior quality, age-worthy, classic and age-worthy Cabernet and Bordeaux varietal to consumers and media worldwide.

The Paso Robles CAB Collective has set out to confirm that the appellation’s unique attributes provide the perfect condition to produce luscious, well-rounded red Bordeaux wines that can compete with like varietals on a global stage.

Founding members of the PRCC include:  Daou Vineyards and Winery, ADELAIDA Cellars, J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines, JUSTIN Vineyards and Winery, Vina Robles, Chateau Margene and Eberle Winery.

http://pasoroblescab.com/

Rusty Sly on Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc

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Here it is in the month of October and the California weather is scorching.  Though it was extremely hot the dedicated GOTN (Grape of the Night) group met at Valencia Wine Company to explore a wine known as Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc which originated in a village in the Rhone region of South eastern France.
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  For some miraculous reason I selected a white wine varietal for this GOTN and it was a perfect choice for this warm evening.  It also made a few of my white wine drinkers very happy.  The terroir in where the  Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc vines are grown is very unique.  The soil around the vines are covered with smooth stones or pebbles known as galets.  These stones retain heat up during the day and radiates at night acting like an oven which causes the grapes to ripen faster. The stones also help retain moisture in the soil during the summer months.

We have explored the red version from this region where a total of 15 varietals are allowed to be used in the blend.  The white version only allows 6 varietals according to the appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) guidelines.  The six grapes are Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Picpoul, and Picardan.  The interesting thing about this wine is that the AOC allows this wine to use one or up to all six varietals in its blend.  The 2007 Chateau Beaucastel Vielles Vignes is made with 100% Roussanne.  Chateau Beaucastel is also one of only two wineries that use all 15 of the red varietals in their red Chateauneuf du Pape.  Guess they love the extremes.  The two grape varietals that are primarily used as the base in the blends are Grenache Blanc and Roussanne.  These grape varietals impart fruitiness and body to the wine.  I love Roussanne because of this full body and great mouth feel along with its fantastic fruit profile.  If you have not tried a Roussanne, I recommend it.  Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Picpoul add acidity as well as floral and mineral notes.

All of the wines selected for the GOTN were French.  The American version of this wine style add Marsanne and Viognier which are not approved for  Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc under the French AOC guidelines.

Here are the wines and what the members found during our tasting:

2011 Picpoul de Pinet Moulin de Gassac
Aroma:  Floral
Taste:  Creamy on the tongue and tasted like a sophisticated Pinot Grigio

2008  Lieu dit Les Combes d’Arnevel
Aroma:  Subtle
Taste:  Essence of honey, well balanced, minerally, creamy on the tongue

2010 Chateau Unang Ventoux Blanc
Aroma:  Paint thinner that slowly softens over time
Taste:  Grapefruit, minerals

2009 Clos Saint Michel
Aroma:  Honey, floral (honeysuckle)
Taste:  Dry cocoa powder (unsweetened), cold sake at the end of the palate, tinny, dry finish

2010 Chante Cigale
Aroma:  Pineapple, stone
Taste:  Honey, stone, some creaminess

2010 Pierre Henri Morel Cotes du Rhone Villages Laudun
Aroma:  Subtle floral, honey
Taste:  Light citrus on the finish, buttery, light toast, mineral finish

2010 Domaine de Nalys
Aroma:  Floral, light honey, crisp citrus
Taste:  Buttery finish, Light citrus, chalky, and mineral on the finish, apricots, yellow plums

As I stated earlier, we had a nice selection of Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc wines from the South of France.  As you can see from the aroma and tasting notes that there are certain commonalities that appear.  The key one is the minerality of these wines.  This flavor is a reflection of the terror or soil where these vines are grown.  We know the soil profile in much of France consists of limestone, slate, etc.  This soil imparts the mineral characteristic into the wine.  This type of soil may also provide another benefit.  For years I have been searching for an answer on why French wines (Bordeaux, Burgundy, etc.) can age for so many years.  French Bordeaux and Burgundy wines can be cellared for 20, 30, 40 years or more and not go bad.  Rather, they get better.  California wines do not have this aging capability.  Jamie Goode in Harpers Weekly dated Sept 12, 2003 stated, ” In any event, I am utterly convinced that minerality is the one true key to ageability in wines and that everything else—tannin, acidity, sulphur dioxide—plays a far more secondary role.”  Is this the answer that I have been searching for on French wine longevity?  What do you think?  Another topic for another day.

In conclusion, thank you everyone that attended the October GOTN.  It was a great evening.  As always, thank you Valencia Wine Company for all of your support in the name of wine education.  Having cut my teeth at Valencia Wine Company on wines and wine education, I hold them in high regard.  I attended their classes, flight tastings and events for many years and that has led me to search for more answers.  Wines for me as an engineer is a science.  The more I learn, the more I realize that I have only scratched the surface.  Keep tasting, reading and learning there is nothing better than wine and wine education.

Cheers,
Rusty Sly

Gregory Alonzo: Piedmont’s Hidden Treasures

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The region of Monferrato, Italy is a spectacular expanse of rolling hills and vast vineyards. This is the fabled area of Piedmont. A wine region that has been extensively celebrated in the arts and literature.

On hot days in Monferrato, what white wines do the locals drink? The answer is quite simple, they seldom, if ever, drink white wine. Piedmontese prefer red wines such as  Grignolino, Ruche, Verduno Pelaverga, and Freisa. Drinking a white wine is just unseemly.

Today, my friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto and I will be exploring the wonderful, but little known wines of this region. Rest assured that these wines can be found in the States, however, it may take some searching. Rather than dwell on particular wineries or vintages, we have decided to cover the general characteristics of these wines and make some recommendations. We welcome you to share your insights as you discover the hidden treasures of Piedmont.

Grignolino (green-yo-lino) in the local dialect means “many pips.” The grape varietal is popular when making light colored wines and roses. The alcohol content is typically low at 11-12%. Rest assured that these wines have strong acidity and tannins.

“I also like the floral notes, fruity aromas of citrus, and just a hint of spice.” Serena was quick to add. “The wine is very dry and tastes of red raspberries.”

“It is also interesting that for a such a light wine, Grignolino has plenty of structure and a long finish,“ I added with a nod of approval.

In the days when Piedmont was still a kingdom, Grignolino was a favorite of royalty. The King of Savoia was quite fond of drinking Grignolino and preferred it to all other wines served at his table. By the end of the 19th century this wine was considered one of Piedmont’s best. Today Grignolino has improved in quality and is steadily gaining in popularity. It is often considered Piedmont’s most delicate wine.

Both Serena and I recommend a 2009 Castillo di Nelve. Priced at $15, it is classic in style and  from 25 year old vines. This wine pairs quite nicely with pasta and all basic Italian dishes.

Our next wine is Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato and it is grown exclusively in the hills of Monferrato. In order to be labeled Ruche, the wine must be comprised of 90% Ruche grapes. The other 10% is open to any combination of Barbera or Brachetto. This produces a fragrant and slightly floral wine. Ruche is pale-red in color with a tannic profile and depth of flavor. It has  medium body with a delicate, velvety taste.

“I would also add that there are notes of tart berries, black plums, and sweet spices that distinguish Ruche,” Serena gave a nod of approval.

The Ruche grape is something of an enigma even in Piedmont. There are conflicting tales of this grape varietal. One such story is that Ruche is originally from France and was brought to Piedmont several hundred of years ago. Serena, like all good Piedmontese, is insistent that Ruche is an indigenous vine. Whatever the truth, Ruche has begun making its way out of Monferrato. Over the past decade Ruche has been well received by all who have enjoyed this limited production wine.

Ruche compliments salami, roasted veal, and aged cheeses. Serena also recommends serving Ruche with the classic Piedmont dish, tagliolni with white truffles.

Priced at about $25, both Serena and I recommend a 2006 La Mondianese Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato.

Verduno Pelaverga or simply Verduno is a red wine native to Piedmont. Pelaverga is a rare, dark-skinned grape varietal that produces pale strawberry-scented wines. So why haven’t you heard of this obscure grape? Verduno is in the Barolo region and just a few hills over from the famed Barolo site of La Morra.
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Unfortunately this splendid grape gets over-shadowed by Piedmont’s renown Barolo, the “King of wine and wine of kings.”

Pelaverga has a long history in Piedmont. The grapes date back to the 15th century. However, in those days Pelaverga was used primarily as a blending grape. The name also brings up some interesting questions. Literally translated, it means “branch peeler.” Serena presumes the name has something to do with a viticultural practice of how to train the vine.

Here’s an interesting thought.  “Verga” is the Spanish word for the male genitalia. Considering that the local people of Verduno claim that the grape is an aphrodisiac, I postulate …”

“Oh Gregorio,” Serena broke in with a more than amused laughter. “More like wishful thinking.”

“Unfortunately, you are probably correct. Two glasses later, and nothing.”

“Cin cin,” Serena heartily toasted me.

Overall, Verduno Pelaverga’s profile is a savory floral wine. It is lithe in acidity and weight, yet poignant in depth. There is just enough tannin to pair perfectly with smoked meats and slightly aged cheeses.

“Or a truffle risotto,” Serena added. “I would also serve Verduno with just the slightest chill.”

Both Serena and prefer the 2006 Pelaverga Basadone. This is a most enjoyable wine at about $20. Incidentally, “Baciadonne” in Italian translates as “the lady killer.”

Our final selection is Freisa (Fray-zah). It is a blue-black grape indigenous to Piedmont. These vigorous grapes are harvested in early October and the red wines produced are somewhat sweet and lightly sparkling.

Dating back to the 18th century, most Piedmontese agree that the varietal originated in the hills between Asti and Turin. By the 1880’s, Freisa had become one of the major  grapes of the region. Today, Freisa is grown widely around the Monferrato area.

Freisa is an interesting variety which typically shows a wild-raspberry scent, some  ripe strawberries with distinct earthy notes which add interest. There is a slight astringent, tart flavor to the wine’s profile that is slightly reminiscent of Dolcetto. Wines made for export tend to be on the lighter side, softly sweet, and slightly fizzy. Freisa is a very refreshing wine that is popular for sipping on those long summer days.

Serena and I recommend a 2004 Casaccia Vigna Monfiorenza. It can be served slightly chilled and pairs nicely with a variety of cheeses.

The wines we shared today are some of gems Piedmont. Rest assured that there are many more hidden treasures to be discovered. This is an ancient land with a colorful history that dates back before the Romans. A land that will never cease to amaze even the most discerning palates.

“Serena, earlier you mentioned Piedmont’s renown dish, tagliolni with white truffles.”

“If you are hungry,” she flashed me a beaming smile. “I know just the place.”

But that my friends is another story …

Greg Alonzo on Sake: “Bond, James Bond … Wrong?”

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Medea and I made our way up Tbilisi’s Abashidze Street . As usual when I am with Medea, we are running late. Tonight we are dining with two longtime clients from Tokyo, Fumio and Kenji.

At length, we arrived at our destination. To my surprise, our guests had not yet arrived. The Sakura Restaurant is the best place in Tbilisi for business meetings, sushi, and sake. The food is delicious, prepared in the traditional Japanese style, and the ambiance most pleasant. The Sakura’s decor is expressive of the elegant simplicity that is Japan.

As our guests were escorted to out table, and after the customary pleasantries and a multitude of bows, we took our seats. Motioning for our waiter, I was quick to order sake and ask to see our chef.

Chef Giorgi Chincharashvili and I have developed a close relationship over the years. With each trip to Tbilisi, I have shared his table many a time. Quite the charmer, Giorgi welcomed our guests and made them feel comfortable.

“Grigol,” Giorgi paused to contemplate the moment. “Shall we go fusion or stay traditional?”

Knowing I am multi-ethnic, Giorgi is always quick surprise me with his culinary delights. However, aware my guests palates, I gave Giorgi a quick wink. “Let’s stay traditional, but of course with a touch of Georgian flair.”

As Giorgi politely excused himself, my focus shifted to Medea. “My apologies, I need to speak to Fumio and Kenji  in Japanese.”

Once we concluded our business, Kenji flashed Medea a quick smile. “Has Gregory ever told you the story of when he returned from his first trip to Japan,” he asked with a heavy accent.

“No,” Medea said flatly. “Grigol, do tell.”

“I spent the summer in Kanazawa, just outside of Tokyo. I was visiting relatives and studying Japanese. When I came home my grandmother, Hanako, asked me what I had  learned. I was quick to share with her that I learned I had an LA accent when speaking Japanese. But not to worry, I worked hard to correct this flaw.”

Both Fumio and Kenji erupted euphorically. Fumio was first to realize that Medea did not understand the humor behind the story and was quick to explain. “His grandmother, Hanako Takeuchi, was born in Los Angeles.”

Medea now joined in our merriment. Seeing that our sake had arrived she was quick to take charge and ensure that our guests were properly served.

“Grigol, when did the Japanese side of your family first immigrate to the States?
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” Medea queried.

“About 150 years ago. My great-grandmother, Yoneko Takeuchi came by way of Bremerton, Washington.”

“Yonsei,” Kenji said flatly.

“Wakarimasen, I do not understand.” Medea struggled with her Japanese pronunciation.

“Fourth generation … Yonsei, means I am fourth generation Japanese in the States.”

“And the Spanish side of your family,” Medea paused slightly. “When did they come to the States?”

“With Cortez actually. We Alonzo’s were quite the conquistadors. We raped, robbed, and pillaged with the best of them.”

“Oh, Grigol, stop it,” Medea toyed with me.

Fumio patted me on the shoulder. “Share with Medea the James Bond story.”

A smile filed my face. “In the film, ‘You Only Live Twice,’ Bond is served sake. 007 is quick to show his cultivated palate and country club manners and comments that he especially enjoys sake when it is served at the correct temperature, 98.4 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“Isn’t that warm?” Medea queried.

“Yes,” Kenji replied. We Japanese have long associated overheating with low grade sake. Heating is used to mask the impurities of cheaper sakes.”

“Ah so desu ka? Is that so?” Medea broke out in laughter.

“Kampai,” we raised our glasses in the first toast of many to celebrate the evenings festivities.

Sake, more properly called nihonshoshu, can be served at a range of temperatures. However, true connoisseurs tend to favor serving on the cool side. Pending on the brand, I prefer my nihonshoshu at room temperature.

“If chilled, 68 degrees Fahrenheit is quite appropriate,” Fumio added.

“Once again, depending on the brand of nihonshoshu, 50 degrees Fahrenheit is acceptable,” Kenji broke in.

“So you see Medea,” Fumio smiled politely. “Mr. Bond, James Bond may be a connoisseur, but with regard to nihonshoshu, he is most definitely not an aficionado.

When our food arrived, we all delighted in the sumptuous feast before us. Agadashi tofu, gyoza, yakitori, motoyaki, tempura, sashimi, maki and nigiri sushi, unagi, and my favorite, soft shell crab.

Several dishes and many flasks of nihonshoshu later, we finished out meal.

“In Japan,” Kenji struggled to express himself clearly in English. “We say a real man can drink 8 flasks of nihonshoshu.”

“I was in the Marines the first time I tried to drink 8 flasks.”

“Only men in a samurai film,” Fumio laughed.

“I was in the Marines the first time I tried to drink 8 flasks.”

“What happened?” Medea asked with interest.

With fond reflection I laughed under my breath. “Let’s just thank the gods for taxis. Oh yes, and the maitre d’ who got me into my cab and safely back to base.”

“Gentleman, shall we now imbibe in some fine Georgian white wines?” Fumio queried.

“Yes,” Medea was quick to add. I have something very special for you gentlemen to try.”

“Medea is referring to a lovely Georgian wine called Kisi.” I then called for our server to invite Giorgi to join us.

Medea, confident in her tone, “Kisi is fermented and matured for 5 months in traditional Georgian amphoras and another 12 months in oak barriques …”

But that my friends is another story …