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Perlises Pick: Monochrome

January 22, 2022 by Michael Perlis

After months of no winery visits, we finally got out and about. But, something about us had changed. While we still love red wine A LOT, we have been drinking mostly whites during our stay at home and espousing our newfound “healthier diet and lighter wine to go with it” lifestyle to anyone who will listen.

It was now time to put our money where are our mouths are.

Meet Monochrome.

We first tasted Monochrome at the 2018 Garagiste Festival in Santa Monica. At that time, Michael wrote: I’m just going to say it: “It takes balls to make only white wine in red wine country. Since I was focusing primarily on reds I almost skipped it. Fortunately, Karen insisted I try the wines.

As usual…um, always…she was right. Especially loved the 2016 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Marsanne as well as the 2016 blend of Marsanne and Chardonnay. They are pouring in Paso’s Tin City now and I highly recommend you check them out. We intend to.”

Three years later [!], we finally did.

If there was any doubt, Michael comments above were meant as a compliment, not an insult. Paso Robles is known for its big red wines and many (but certainly not all) of the white wines have the reputation of being viewed as an afterthought for that member of a tasting group that just “doesn’t like reds.”

Dave McGee is changing that, one wine-drinker at a time. He founded Monochrome in 2016 after a rich and varied career in industries such as radar design, stealth technology and neuroradiology. He completed the online UC Davis winemaking program and helped with the winemaking at Villa Creek and Alta Colina before making the jump to starting his winery, focusing entirely on white wine.

Taking a contrarian approach to the rest of the region, Dave and consulting winemaker Riley Hubbard focus on making only “white wines with depth, layers and complexity…” Sourcing grapes from Santa Barbara County on the south to Santa Cruz on the north (the three-hour-by-truck rule), they break each variety into small batches and use different fermentation and aging techniques for each, resulting in wines that really live up to the expression of the whole being greater than the sum of the parts.

Some notes on the wines we tasted:

2019 “Neither Here Nor There” is a blend of 56% Chenin Blanc from Jurassic Park Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley and 44% Sauvignon Blanc from the McGinley Vineyard in Happy Canyon. We picked up lemon notes and long finish. This wine has a really solid backbone.

2018 “Analog In A Digital Age” is 74% Marsanne from Camp 4 Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley, 17% Chenin Blanc from G2 Vineyard in the Willow Creek district of Paso Robles and 9% Viognier from Shokrian Vineyard in Santa Barbara County. The wine spent nine months in amphora. There was a really nice minerality on the finish.

2018 “Sense Of Out Of Place” – this blend of 53% Sauvignon Blanc from McGinley Vineyard and 47% Chardonnay from Donnachadh Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills has a medium to long finish and pretty citrus/tangerine notes on the nose.

2018 “Wall Of Sound” is 68% Roussanne from Zaca Mesa Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley and 32% Viognier from Shokrian Vineyard. This is a very rich classic Rhone blend.

2017 “Blasphemy” is an unusual blend of 80% Chardonnay from Donnachadh Vineyard and 20% Chenin Blanc from Jurassic Park Vineyard. It has a rich golden corn color, and is bright and rich, with a perceived sweetness [as it is 100% dry].

2019 “X-3” – the blend is 49% Roussanne from Zaca Mesa Vineyard, 37% Viognier from Plum Orchard Tree Lane Vineyard in Paso’s Templeton Gap and 14% Grenache Blanc from the G2 Vineyard. Some of this classic Rhone blend goes through the “death and resurrection” method wherein the juice is hyper oxidized and then allowed to come back to life. The wine has a very full mouth feel with citrus lemon notes and a medium to long finish

2020 “Barrel Distortion” – 94% Albarino from Plum Orchard Lane Vineyard, 6% Gewurtzraminer from Paraiso Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. Very bright with smooth buttery notes.

You may have noticed an overriding theme here. These are serious, complex wines. A lot of thought and care went into making them and the approach to drinking them should follow suit. Monochrome is raising the bar for what white wines can be. Check them out in Paso Robles’s Tin City.

Monochrome

www.monochromewines.com

3075 Blue Rock Road, Paso Robles, CA 93446

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Filed Under: Michael Perlis Tagged With: aging, amphora, Barrel, blend, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, color, fermentation, finish, garagiste, Gewurztraminer, happy canyon, marsanne, mineral, nose, Paso Robles, Rhone, Roussanne, Santa Barbara, santa lucia highlands, santa monica, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Ynez, Sauvignon Blanc, tasting notes, templeton, tin city, UC Davis, variety, Viognier, white wine, willow creek, winemaker, winemaking, winery

Perlises Pick: What Wines We Are Drinking At Home – Part 3

April 24, 2021 by Michael Perlis

When I started writing this series of articles about the lighter wines Karen and I have been drinking recently, I hadn’t really thought that so many of them would be from Paso Robles. After all, Paso’s reputation [at least in my mind] is for big delicious Reds, and there certainly are a lot of those coming from this area. And we don’t limit ourselves to PR’s AVAs, as I expect you know. But, as I’ve said, great winemakers make great wine, regardless of color, and here are three more wineries that produce some of our favorite lighter wines from the area. As an added bonus, they are all somehow connected to each other.

We’ve actually known Guillaume Fabre of Clos Solene www.clossolene.com the longest of these three, having met him at an event back in 2009. He was pouring his first vintage – a delicious Roussanne – and was still assistant winemaker at L’Aventure. But 2009 was long ago. We’ve followed him to the shared Paso Underground tasting room in downtown to Paso Robles and then to Tin City just south of downtown Paso. Now he and his wife Solene have their own property in the Willow Creek District of Paso Robles, from which they are creating some of the best wines in the region. I’ve always felt that his Red wines did a great job of showing how their inherent power could be softened into elegance without losing the characteristics of Paso.

The lighter wines are equally as stylish. Karen loves all of them when “paired with our “Snacks– Hunkered Down” nights of charcuterie and/or smoked fish, various cheeses, dried and fresh fruit, followed by lemon cookies or a scoop of ice cream.”

The pink La Rose is a Rhone blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah, made from grapes specifically farmed for rosé – no saignee here! Very pale in color that belies the complexity of the wine itself.

Clos Solene’s Hommage Blanc is a classic white Rhone blend of mainly Roussanne plus Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Karen found it to be “full bodied…flowers, fruit, spices…”

Finally, En Coulisse is 100% Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyards. A nice rich Chard, and [per Karen] “not overpowering with oak, vanilla or butter but fruit forward…”

Guillaume is also partner in another Paso Robles winery with his brother Arnaud –

Benom Wines www.benomwines.com. They originally took over Clos Solene’s spot in Tin City, although I believe they have now moved to a larger space in the same area.

The name Benom is a riff on the French word “binôme” which translates to “a project together”. These French brothers have successfully combined their homeland’s heritage with all that Paso has to offer, with their blends showing what can be done by them in a place with no rules. No surprise, again, that the red wines are great, but this article is focusing on these lighter wines.

The L’Essor rosé combines Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon and Contrast is a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Neither of these could be made back home due to the rules about combining grapes from different regions. And they clearly should be. Karen loved the “bright fruit” of the L’Essor and found the Contrast to be “crisp, clean, full of fruit…”

As I mentioned at the start, this article is about three wineries that are somehow connected. Arnaud Fabre of Benom is also marketing director at Law Estate Wines www.lawestatewines.com, another winery that we first tasted at a festival. This time it was the Ojai Wine Festival back in 2013, when Karen came up to me and said “you really have to try Law”.

As always, she was right and we have been big fans since. We met GM Oliver Esparham at the Ojai Festival and have visited him and the rest of our friends at Law at the state-of-the-art winery and tasting room many times – once even before it was complete. The winery and vineyards high up on Peachy Canyon are amazing in their own right. But, that would mean nothing if the wines didn’t match. And they definitely do. The Law wines are truly some of the best ones around.

With regard to lighter wines, Law makes two. The Rosé blend is typically Grenache based while the white Rhone blend Soph [named after the Laws’ granddaughter] is usually about half Roussanne. The exact blends vary from year to year for both of these, but they are always stunning and are present on our table [and in our glasses] often. I love that the description on the website refers to Soph as “an extremely moreish wine”. We definitely agree on that.

Next article, we’ll finally leave Paso Robles and look at wines from farther north. Unless I change my mind.

Clos Solene

www.clossolene.com

Benom

www.benomwines.com

Law Estate Wines

www.lawestatewines.com

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also President of MCP Financial, which provides outsourced controller services. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or mcpfinancial@aol.com.

Filed Under: Michael Perlis Tagged With: ava, cabernet sauvignon, Chardonnay, Cinsault, food pairing, fruit, Grenache, Grenache Blanc, michael perlis, Mourvedre, Oak, ojai, Paso Robles, Rhone, Rose, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, spice, Syrah, tin city, vineyard, Viognier, willow creek, wine pairing, winemakers, wineries

Caliza Winery Celebrates 10 Years with a Look to the Future

March 8, 2018 by evebushman

Paso Robles, Calif. – Celebrating 10-years of crafting estate-grown, sustainably-farmed Rhone wines, and already looking to the next 10-years is Caliza Winery. Situated in the heart of Paso Robles wine country, the small, family-owned and operated winery has big dreams for what the future holds. Including new vineyard plantings, hospitality space and a winery on their estate property just off Highway 46 West.

​26231919_1777824832230464_5186458321869001195_oNestled into the rolling hills of the Paso Robles’ AVA Willow Creek District, Caliza has become known for crafting wine with a purpose and control from vine to glass. Hands on from day one, husband and wife team, Carl and Pam Bowker don’t plan to change that aspect one bit. In fact, they look forward to bringing on new staff who, alongside the Bowkers, will welcome guests to share the wines, history and vision of Caliza Winery.

“Learning about the viticulture and winemaking process had become a passion of mine through the years and it became extra serious after a trip to Europe,” said Carl Bowker, co-owner/winemaker of Caliza Winery. “When we discovered the diverse soils, vast microclimates, and most of all the welcoming community of Paso Robles, we knew this was the place where we would start our next adventure and ultimately Caliza.”

Pam and Carl Bowker happened upon Paso Robles in 2002 as they traveled down Highway 101 towards San Diego. After a night’s rest followed by breakfast at the charming circular counter of the Paso Inn the couple was hooked. After much research, many more trips to Paso Robles, the Bowker’s purchased their first property in December of 2003. Followed by a 2004 purchase of land that is now home to the current 20-acre vineyard and tasting room site. Then, in 2006 things started to become very real as they planted their vineyard. Two years later, in late November of 2008, the doors to the Caliza tasting room opened.

Looking to the next 10 years, one main goal and vision the Bowkers have is to build. The process has begun with drafted plans that include building a new hospitality space for enhanced wine tasting and guest experiences along with construction of a winery adjacent to the current and future tasting room. Additionally, the plans include a chef’s kitchen that will allow the Bowkers to host wine dinners, provide food and wine pairing opportunities and a space to host a variety of wine club gatherings.

“We feel that being able to show guests the whole process, from vine to glass, allows them to truly understand the passion we have for crafting wines here in Paso Robles,” notes Pam Bowker, co-owner of Caliza Winery. “It has been our dream to have both of these buildings on our estate-property from day one, and we truly see this vision coming to life in the near future.”

Crafting wine in a new on-site building is only one goal the Bowkers plan to achieve within the next 10 years. The duo is also anticipating the expansion of their current 20-acre vineyard planting and possibly even add new acreage down the line. The new plantings will allow Caliza to grow their current wine production in order to meet a growing demand for current and future customers. Plus, when they plant, the Bowkers plan to add different wine grape varieties and clones (other than what is already planted) that will allow Carl to make new wines and unique blends to compliment the current Caliza portfolio.

“We are blessed with the ability to have our own property to experiment with new plantings, clones and trellising designs,” says Carl Bowker, co-owner/winemaker of Caliza Winery. “Plus, that is sort of what this whole winemaking thing is about; experimenting, taking a risk and enjoying the process along the way.”

In celebration of Caliza’s 10-year milestone, the Paso Robles winery will host a variety of events at the tasting room, the winery and even on the road throughout California. For a complete list of exciting events and celebrations head to calizawinery.com.

To get to know the small family-owned winery team and wines, visit Caliza Winery at their Tasting Room located off Anderson Road within the Willow Creek District of Paso Robles wine country Friday through Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Guests looking for a private tasting or a focused wine experience may do so by booking in advance.

“To hit this milestone and to say we are thrilled is an understatement,” mentioned Carl Bowker, co-owner/winemaker of Caliza Winery. “We are filled with much gratitude for the support from the Paso Robles community, our loyal wine club members and anyone who buys Caliza wines.”

###

About Caliza Winery

Sharing a love for both wine and the Paso Robles wine region, husband and wife team, Pam and Carl Bowker, invite you to visit Caliza to taste a true dedication to estate-grown, sustainably-farmed Rhone wines and unique blends. Celebrating 10 years in 2018, Caliza’s 20-acre estate vineyard lies within the rolling hills of the Paso Robles AVA Willow Creek District. The Bowkers oversee all aspects of viticulture allowing them to meticulously control the winemaking process from vine to glass. Their small-lot wines are beautiful representations of the Paso Robles AVA – bold, expressive, elegant. Open Friday – Sunday, Caliza also offers focused tastings and appointments with advance reservations. To learn more visit calizawinery.com

Visit the Tasting Room

2570 Anderson Road

Paso Robles, CA 93446

 

Tasting Room Hours

Friday – Sunday: 11:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Monday – Thursday: by appointment

 

Get Social With Caliza

facebook.com/calizawinery

instagram.com/calizawinery

10-Year Hashtag: #CALIZA10

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: ava, blend, California, chef, climate, clone, europe, food pairing, kitchen, Paso Robles, Rhone, sustainable, tasting room, variety, vineyard, viticulture, willow creek, wine club, wine dinner, wine glass, wine pairing, Wine tasting, winemaker, winery

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