Eve's Wine 101

Gregory Alonzo: Piedmont’s Hidden Treasures

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The region of Monferrato, Italy is a spectacular expanse of rolling hills and vast vineyards. This is the fabled area of Piedmont. A wine region that has been extensively celebrated in the arts and literature.

On hot days in Monferrato, what white wines do the locals drink? The answer is quite simple, they seldom, if ever, drink white wine. Piedmontese prefer red wines such as  Grignolino, Ruche, Verduno Pelaverga, and Freisa. Drinking a white wine is just unseemly.

Today, my friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto and I will be exploring the wonderful, but little known wines of this region. Rest assured that these wines can be found in the States, however, it may take some searching. Rather than dwell on particular wineries or vintages, we have decided to cover the general characteristics of these wines and make some recommendations. We welcome you to share your insights as you discover the hidden treasures of Piedmont.

Grignolino (green-yo-lino) in the local dialect means “many pips.” The grape varietal is popular when making light colored wines and roses. The alcohol content is typically low at 11-12%. Rest assured that these wines have strong acidity and tannins.

“I also like the floral notes, fruity aromas of citrus, and just a hint of spice.” Serena was quick to add. “The wine is very dry and tastes of red raspberries.”

“It is also interesting that for a such a light wine, Grignolino has plenty of structure and a long finish,“ I added with a nod of approval.

In the days when Piedmont was still a kingdom, Grignolino was a favorite of royalty. The King of Savoia was quite fond of drinking Grignolino and preferred it to all other wines served at his table. By the end of the 19th century this wine was considered one of Piedmont’s best. Today Grignolino has improved in quality and is steadily gaining in popularity. It is often considered Piedmont’s most delicate wine.

Both Serena and I recommend a 2009 Castillo di Nelve. Priced at $15, it is classic in style and  from 25 year old vines. This wine pairs quite nicely with pasta and all basic Italian dishes.

Our next wine is Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato and it is grown exclusively in the hills of Monferrato. In order to be labeled Ruche, the wine must be comprised of 90% Ruche grapes. The other 10% is open to any combination of Barbera or Brachetto. This produces a fragrant and slightly floral wine. Ruche is pale-red in color with a tannic profile and depth of flavor. It has  medium body with a delicate, velvety taste.

“I would also add that there are notes of tart berries, black plums, and sweet spices that distinguish Ruche,” Serena gave a nod of approval.

The Ruche grape is something of an enigma even in Piedmont. There are conflicting tales of this grape varietal. One such story is that Ruche is originally from France and was brought to Piedmont several hundred of years ago. Serena, like all good Piedmontese, is insistent that Ruche is an indigenous vine. Whatever the truth, Ruche has begun making its way out of Monferrato. Over the past decade Ruche has been well received by all who have enjoyed this limited production wine.

Ruche compliments salami, roasted veal, and aged cheeses. Serena also recommends serving Ruche with the classic Piedmont dish, tagliolni with white truffles.

Priced at about $25, both Serena and I recommend a 2006 La Mondianese Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato.

Verduno Pelaverga or simply Verduno is a red wine native to Piedmont. Pelaverga is a rare, dark-skinned grape varietal that produces pale strawberry-scented wines. So why haven’t you heard of this obscure grape? Verduno is in the Barolo region and just a few hills over from the famed Barolo site of La Morra.
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Unfortunately this splendid grape gets over-shadowed by Piedmont’s renown Barolo, the “King of wine and wine of kings.”

Pelaverga has a long history in Piedmont. The grapes date back to the 15th century. However, in those days Pelaverga was used primarily as a blending grape. The name also brings up some interesting questions. Literally translated, it means “branch peeler.” Serena presumes the name has something to do with a viticultural practice of how to train the vine.

Here’s an interesting thought.  “Verga” is the Spanish word for the male genitalia. Considering that the local people of Verduno claim that the grape is an aphrodisiac, I postulate …”

“Oh Gregorio,” Serena broke in with a more than amused laughter. “More like wishful thinking.”

“Unfortunately, you are probably correct. Two glasses later, and nothing.”

“Cin cin,” Serena heartily toasted me.

Overall, Verduno Pelaverga’s profile is a savory floral wine. It is lithe in acidity and weight, yet poignant in depth. There is just enough tannin to pair perfectly with smoked meats and slightly aged cheeses.

“Or a truffle risotto,” Serena added. “I would also serve Verduno with just the slightest chill.”

Both Serena and prefer the 2006 Pelaverga Basadone. This is a most enjoyable wine at about $20. Incidentally, “Baciadonne” in Italian translates as “the lady killer.”

Our final selection is Freisa (Fray-zah). It is a blue-black grape indigenous to Piedmont. These vigorous grapes are harvested in early October and the red wines produced are somewhat sweet and lightly sparkling.

Dating back to the 18th century, most Piedmontese agree that the varietal originated in the hills between Asti and Turin. By the 1880’s, Freisa had become one of the major  grapes of the region. Today, Freisa is grown widely around the Monferrato area.

Freisa is an interesting variety which typically shows a wild-raspberry scent, some  ripe strawberries with distinct earthy notes which add interest. There is a slight astringent, tart flavor to the wine’s profile that is slightly reminiscent of Dolcetto. Wines made for export tend to be on the lighter side, softly sweet, and slightly fizzy. Freisa is a very refreshing wine that is popular for sipping on those long summer days.

Serena and I recommend a 2004 Casaccia Vigna Monfiorenza. It can be served slightly chilled and pairs nicely with a variety of cheeses.

The wines we shared today are some of gems Piedmont. Rest assured that there are many more hidden treasures to be discovered. This is an ancient land with a colorful history that dates back before the Romans. A land that will never cease to amaze even the most discerning palates.

“Serena, earlier you mentioned Piedmont’s renown dish, tagliolni with white truffles.”

“If you are hungry,” she flashed me a beaming smile. “I know just the place.”

But that my friends is another story …

The Goddess Covers Spain, by Eve

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The day before I left the U.S. to chaperone my daughter’s show choir at the Olympics, I signed up for my friend Denise Lowe’s Spanish Wine Tasting Class.  I’ve interviewed Denise many times about her work as a wine educator and festival sommelier, but never attended one of her educational tasting classes.  Below are the wines we tried (none over $20 and available at Total Wine in Northridge at the time), the tasting notes provided in italics, and my tasting notes followed by more info on Spain and Denise:

Whites:

2010 Vina Godeval, Galicia – 100% Godello

Grape Characteristics: Its very fragrant nose can smell something like Champagne, with lemon and chalk. Its fruit notes are of the more subtle variety, like apple and pear. Light and clean on the finish. It can stand up to spice and also pair well with lighter seafood.

Notes:  I could smell the aromas of pear, melon and orange a foot from the glass.  A pretty amazing start.  On the mouth I got a little metallic taste, most likely from stainless steel aging, followed by tangy lemon-lime and apricot.  This was to be my favorite white of the four we were to taste.

2010 Nora, Rias Baixas – 100% Albarino

Grape Characteristics: Noted for its distinctive aroma, can be similar to Viogner or Gewurztraminer, with peach and apricot notes. The wine produced is unusually light, and generally high in acidity with alcohol levels of 11.5–12.5%. Its thick skins and large number of pips can cause residual bitterness. Pair with paella or other well-seasoned seafood dishes.

Notes: Aromas of sugary cantaloupe, jasmine, hay, nutmeg, red delicious apples and a taste of lemon-lime again with some acidity and a short finish.

2010 Eguren, Tierra de Castilla – 100% Viura

Grape Characteristics: Also known as Macabeo. Pale straw in color and very lightly scented, with aromas of apple, pear and notes of spice. The palate has more body than might be expected based on the color and nose, and is pleasantly fruitful with a brisk acidity in the extended finish.

Notes: This was a favorite for most of the group.  A nose of hay, mint, cheese and dried pineapple was increased on the palate by white pepper.

2010 Palacio de Bornas, Rueda – 100% Verdejo

Grape Characteristics: Tight and tangy with floral and citrus aromas and stony minerality. Fresh, aromatic, and full-bodied. Pair with seafood, shellfish, or drink as an aperitif.

Notes: Creamy apple and mown grass hit me on the nose and that same creaminess led to some acidity and crisp citrus fruits in the mouth.

Reds:

2010 Nostrada, Tarragona – 100% Tempranillo

Grape Characteristics: Tempranillo’s aromas and flavors often combine elements of berryish fruit, herbaceousness, and an earthy-leathery minerality. Being low in acidity and sugar content, it is commonly blended with Carignan (Mazuela), Grenache (Garnacha), Graciano, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Notes: Mushroom, wet oak, dark stewed plums, green peppercorns, forest floor and just turned earth filled my nose while a taste of cherry, blueberry and stems led up to a dry, tannic and medium-length finish.

2009 Borsao Tres Picos, Campo de Borja – 100% Garnacha

Grape Characteristics: Spicy, berry-flavored and soft on the palate with relatively high alcohol content. It tends to lack acid, tannin and color, and is usually blended with other varieties such as Syrah, Carignan, Tempranillo, and Cinsault.

Notes: Gotta love aromas that begin with velvety milk chocolate covered cherries and a hint of white pepper while a taste of cherry, stems, pepper and eucalyptus competed for a very long finish.  Another fave for me.

2005 Artero, La Mancha – 100% Merlot

Grape Characteristics: Most of the best Spanish Merlots are medium bodied, with nice silky texture; black-cherry and herbal flavors are typical, great mouth feeling, fruity upfront: raspberry, currants and other red fruit with a long finish.

Notes: Interesting nose of chocolate mint, cigar, earth, mushroom and wood.  On the mouth it was very balanced with nuances of dried cherries and smoke, ending in a long, dry finish.

2009 Senorio del Tallar, Ribera del Duero – 100% Tempranillo

Grape Characteristics: Intense purple color, made from vines between 50 and 70 years old, aged in Hungarian oak. Aromas of incense, Asian and black fruits complement the dense texture with a fine and long finish.

Notes:  Luckily the wet cardboard smell (an indicator of cork taint) blew off quickly and I was left with dark fruit and the faintest hint of leaves.  The taste was all deep, dark fruits – a bowl full – framed by cigar, tannin and dust.  Another nice discovery.

The Goddess’ Notes on Spain

  • What do you think of when you think of Spain?
  • Bull fights?
  • Flamenco?
  • Tapas?
  • Penelope Cruz?
  • Brief History:
  • The Phoenicians cultivated vines at least 3,000 years ago
  • The Romans introduced new techniques:
  • Addition of resins and aromatic essences & aging in small clay amphorae
  • Decline of the Roman Empire and invasion of by Barbarian tribes brought wine making in Spain to a temporary halt
  • 800 years of Arab domination slowed the development of winemaking, but cultivation of vineyards continued and even prospered under Moslem rule – alcohol was used for medicines
  • Winemaking took off after the Reconquest
  • Religious communities and monasteries played a significant role as monks recovered the winemaking tradition vital for their rituals
  • Phylloxera contributed to the consolidation of the winemaking industry
  • French winemakers settled south of the Pyrenees
  • Phylloxera in the Iberian Peninsula was less damaging than in the rest of Europe
  • The 20th century was crucial to the Spanish wine producing industry
  • New industrial techniques replaced the old-fashioned traditions
  • Civil War and Second World War did terrible damage to the vineyards
  • Spain began to recover in the fifties

And, in case you can’t tell from all of this information I’m relaying here, I ALSO HAD A VERY GRAND TIME learning and tasting with Denise!

About Denise:

Denise Lowe, the Goddess of Wine, focuses on eliminating the snootiness and mystery about wine. As a Wine Consultant, she plans special events, suggests corporate gift selections and recommends food pairings with wine. Denise has achieved Certifications through the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), the Wine Academy of Spain and “LAW School” at LearnAboutWine.com, and is a Professional Member of the Society of Wine Educators.  Sign up for Denise’s next class, Tasting Australia and New Zealand, held at Fab’s Corner Cucina in Sherman Oaks on September 15 through this link: http://www.localwineevents.com/events/detail/436557 or call Fab’s at 818-995-2933.

Sommelier Gregory Alonzo on Nectar of the Sun: Unique Georgian Wines

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Striated with colored hues of magenta and amber, sunset slowly covered Tbilisi’s skyline. As the sky slowly purpled above us, Medea and I hustled to meet Shorena, our  fellow sommelier. Tonight we planned to meet in Old Town’s poplar jazz spot, Cafe Kala. Shorena had arranged for us to taste three of Georgia’s most unique wines.

“I see her,” Medea called out. “She’s sitting in the patio area.”

“It is such a lovely evening, I thought we’d sit outside.” Shorena motioned us to take our seats. “Once the band starts, we can easily here the music from here.”

To my delight, our servers immediately filled our table with eggplant, peppers, tomatoes,   stuffed mushrooms, goat cheese, lamb kabobs, and lavash bread. “A table set for a king.”

“Or a prince,” Medea said with subtle coquetry.

“A prince without a crown,” I chuckled.

“Grigol,” Shorena called for my attention. Tonight we will be tasting Saperavi, do you approve?”

Saperavi is Georgia’s hardy varietal and a staple in most Georgian blends. Translated, it’s name means ‘paint or dye.’ What makes Saperavi unique is both the skins and flesh are red in color. The best Saperavi grapes are grown in the Kakheti region of the Alazani Valley.

“Shorena, what is our first wine?”

“Pheasant’s Tears. It is a 2008 unfiltered Saperavi,” Shorena said confidently. You know the owner of the winery, correct?”

“Yes, I know both John Wurdeman and his wine maker Gela Patalishvili. They produce some interesting hand-crafted wines. They do this by following the ancient Georgian tradition of pressing the grapes and then storing them in bees-wax lined amphora pots called “kvevri,” I replied matter-of-factly.

“Grigol, do you know the tale of the Pheasant’s Tears?” Medea queried.

Before I could answer, Shorena blurted out. “In the story, a hero claims that only a wine beyond measure can make a pheasant cry tears of joy.”

“On that note,” I smiled. “Let’s drink some wine … Gaumarjos!”

On first sight, the wine is such a dark red it is called black by Georgians. Savory hints of charcoal, black pepper, smoke, black currant, and pomegranate are dominated by mulberry and plum. On the palate,  this full-bodied wine has a velvety structure with strong tannins and acidity, and a most pleasurable finish. Pheasant’s Tears is an exciting and original wine that even the most discerning of palates would enjoy. This Saperavi pairs best with roasted meats and hard cheeses. However, Georgians often prefer this wine with sheep cheese which is typically soft in the middle.

“Shorena, what is the alcohol content?”

“13 per cent. Grigol, are you ready for our next wine?”

“Of course.” I gave a nod of approval.

“Our next selection is a 2003 Saperavi from Vinoterra. The alcohol content is 13 per cent,” Shorena flashed me a wide beaming smile.

“Isn’t Vinoterra now owned by Bukhard Schuchmann? Medea queried.

“Yes, and his winemaker, Giorgi Dakishvili and I go way back. He is my friend and teacher.” A smile filled my face as I reflected on the times I raised a glass with the gentleman I consider to be Georgia’s finest winemaker.

Vinoterra Saperavi is made in the traditional Kakhetian style. Fermented for 20 days in amphora pots before transported to oak barrels for 24 months for full maturation. Finally, the wine is bottled unfiltered. There is a deep inky purple coloring to this wine. Along with complex cherry aromas, there are notes of ripe blackberries, mulberry, and a hint of mint and clay. There is a rustic side to this concentrated charmer as the silky tannins accompany a long lasting aromatic finish. Overall, this Saperavi is a deep wine rich of extract with good aging potential. This wine goes well with an assortment meats and cheeses.

Medea nodded her approval. “I understand why you admire Giorgi. He is an artist when it come to hand-crafted wines. I wish I knew his secret.”

“Love and passion for his craft,” I smiled. “Also his preference for using the best grapes from vineyards 30-50 years old.”

“Ready for our last selection?” Shorena asked with excitement.

Giving a nod of approval. “What’s the next selection?”

“A change of pace. I have selected a 2006 Mukuzani from Teliani Valley.”

“You know my next question.”

13 per cent alcohol,” Shorena chuckled.

Teliani Valley uses totally modern techniques with temperature-controlled fermentation and some aging in small oak barrels. Though their methods for making wine are quite progressive, this winery’s soul dates back 80 centuries. One tradition kept alive at Teliani Valley, all grapes are hand-picked.

So what makes Mukuzani so special and one of my personal passions? The Saperavi grapes come come from only the Right Bank of the Alazani River in Kakheti’s renown Mukzani Appellation. This is the creme de la creme of Georgia’s favorite grape varietal.

Shorena’s final selection certainly lived up to it’s reputation. The wine is dark ruby red in color. The bouquet is a smooth aroma of ripe berry, black currant, plum, and hints of oak. There is a generous mouth filling of fruit on the palate. Fleshy cherries and black plum abound.

“Followed by luscious blackberry.” Medea was quick to add. “And the slightest hint of … licorice.”

“This Mukuzani is juicy and tasty,” Shorena remarked. “And since it was aged in oak for 13 months, this adds to it’s complexity.”

“I also liked the smooth finish. Ladies, I think with the moderate tannins and acidity, this wine would pair nicely with roast beef, lamb chops, and grilled steak.”

“Barbecue veal or ham,” Medea was quick to add.

Flashing both Medea and Shorena a quick grin. “For fun, I would even pair our Mukuzani with spicy Indian dishes.

Georgian reds are definitely distinctive and delicious I thought to myself. Breaking my mood of of thought and reflection … Medea giggled playfully.

“Mmm, spicy Indian food. Little India Restaurant?”

We broke into laughter as Shorena was first to speak. “I guess we will come back for the late jazz session.”

But that my friends is another story …