Eve's Wine 101

SOMM, reviewed by Eve Bushman

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The film SOMM, the correct spelling and abbreviation for the title sommelier, follows four candidates as they prepare to take the Court of Master Sommelier exams and obtain the title Master Sommelier.  There are less than 200 that have the Master Sommelier (MS) distinction worldwide.

We follow four men, their other halves, their wine glasses and their ever-present ever-large personal set of flash cards up through the day of the test and the results.  The candidates are Ian Cauble, Dustin Wilson, Brian McClintic and DLynn Proctor.

somm_movie_photo_2Below are some of my notes and below that is the information provided by First Run Features.

Quotes Tell the Story

Beginning with the question,“Are you ready to put your sanity at risk?”, we begin.

Candidate Ian Cauble begins by asking, “How often do we smell and breathe and appreciate what’s there…” in a reference to wine and life that I totally agree with!  His girlfriend said that for Ian “wine comes before family…her.”

Candidate Dustin Wilson works alongside Ian.  He’s married and has the experience of having had worked in a restaurant.

Candidate Brian McClintic is also married and has worked in a restaurant, and admits not to be “as entrenched in it to begin with” as the others are.

Candidate DLynn Proctor is already rumored to be the best new somm in America. Wants to be the best in a restaurant, and is therefore he’s after his MS.  He takes great detail in his wardrobe as he prepares for work.

The film begins as the opening credits are pictured over the usual suspects: harvest, a cooperage, riddling, bottling, and a song where the words, “vintage is rare”, are part of the lyrics.

Several influential wine people comment during the film, including Chef Michael Mina, winemaker Bo Barrett, Master Sommeliers Rajat Parr, Michael Jordan and Peter Neptune and Reggie Narito.

The film gives a brief lesson in Vitis Vinifera, aka the main source of wine grapes, and explains that wine is part of the bible, the sacrament.  Wine was healthier to drink than water, in fact, it was used to purify water.

Then we learn that it is a three-day test, given once a year and covers just about everything.  1969 was the year of the first exam, and MS Fred Dame was first American to pass.  “Hardest thing I’ve ever done in my life” Dame said, a sentiment that seems to be echoed by all of the masters.

You have to be an “incredible taster” and use “blind tasting (to) increase your perception.”   Each candidate goes through a litany of incoming thoughts before they describe color, clarity, aromas, taste, AND then guess the wine.

Some of the funnier descriptors the candidates came up with: “Granny’s closet”, “freshly opened can of tennis balls” and “cut green garden hose.”

The guys “motivate each other”, “feed off each other”, “push each other” and “give each other a hard time.”

They may say that’s a “ballsy call” and “put your balls on the table,” to one another as they taste wines, and one girlfriend compares them to “guys in a locker room.”

The other candidates often refer to Ian as “Dad” for taking things seriously at every practice tasting.  He wants “focus” and gets irritated with the others.

“There is spit” in the bucket left over for the girlfriends/wives to clean up in the morning.

One married candidate said, “The happiest person when you pass is your spouse” because of the months of study – and abandonment of family and life moments.

The theory exam is oral and given by a panel of MS “asking obscure questions about wine.”  Germany seems to be hard for people; the varietals and the winery names.  Italian grapes are 3000 strong – and nearly impossible to learn every grape varietal.  Hours and hours of study, flash cards – its like having another job.

The candidates Skype each other to quiz on flash cards, the time on the computer: 2:23 A.M.

They must also practice for the service portion of the exam.  MS Dame plays the part of a customer that wants cold pink wine.  And Proctor gives it to them.  But it takes a few minutes, so he offers free drinks, while Dame keeps pestering him, and Proctor withstands it; never showing any emotion.

Fred Dame set up a practice tasting, but he is the most intimidating of “the court” for his perfect reputation.  “Dame-ing it” means he just smells wine – no tasting required – and he’ll know the wine and the vintage year.  Dame gives them six wines and 25 minutes to do the same.  During one lesson, he slapped one of the candidates on the head and criticized him.  The candidate eventually responded by saying, “This sucks.”

Test Day Approaches

Three parts make up the test: Theory includes wine laws, regions, wine world, cigars, and five languages. Service refers to perfect service in a restaurant.  Then there is a Tasting of three whites and three reds, timed on each, to describe the correct varietal, age, area…

They were told to do relaxation techniques suggested before exam.  Good luck with that.

The candidates do more timed tastings to prepare.  Each one is alone for the tasting and only we can hear how they have some of the same descriptors, maybe even give the same location and year.  But not all.  One candidate starts to feel helpless and loses his confidence.  Another believes the wines were switched and never agrees that his palate was that off.

The wives and girlfriends are all at home waiting out the five days to pass – the test is in Dallas.  In the last days before the exam Ian commented, “I was dreaming about my cards…6 hours today, 10 hours tomorrow to study them.”

Now at the exam you are “crapping bricks” as you see four MSs sitting across the six wines you have to taste, “and they ask you how you feel.”  The timer goes off, set at 25 minutes, just as you touch first wine.  It’s just “surreal.”

One candidate said, “Wines are more nervous…trembling…waiting for me to devour them.”

Take Home Messages

“Go to farmers market to keep palate alive, keep on doing it,” so you can recall that smell.

“Lick rocks” to be able to describe minerality.

It is “incomprehensible” to study alone.

Which would you do the day before the test: Go to an MD to clear a nostril?  Go for a run on a treadmill – with index cards?  Shave off a beard?  Leave your study partner behind and work with another?  Iron the tie you plan to wear, carbo load, prep your palate with wine and polish your shoes?

“Pass or fail they will never tell you what the wine were.”

The Results

“Today it is possible I become a master sommelier.” 

If you want to know who passed watch the film, I’m not that kind of reviewer.  Six of the total 60 that took the exam passed.  Some “brilliant people” take the exam five to seven times before passing.  It sounds like the state bar exam.

Now, if you have the MS you have to be a MS at all times.

But the film sure makes me want to read more, learn more, taste more, do everything more.  Where to go next? 

SOMM


93 minutes, color, 2012

A film by Jason Wise

Special features: The Making of Somm: Glasses, Guns, and Cops • The Making of Somm: Music • Alternate Ending: Judgment of Top | Somm • Sommeliers’ Commentary Track • Official Trailer



Somm takes the viewer on a humorous, emotional and illuminating look into the mysterious world of the Court of Master Sommeliers and their massively intimidating Master Sommelier Exam.

The Court of Master Sommeliers is one of the world’s most prestigious and exclusive organizations. Since its inception, fewer than 200 candidates have reached the exalted Master level. The exam covers literally every nuance of the world of wine. Those who have passed have put their sanity at risk to pull it off. Shrouded in secrecy, access to the Court has always been strictly regulated, and cameras have never been allowed anywhere near the exam, until now. How much do you think you know about wine?
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Director Jason Wise says about making the film: “The idea for the film came about just after I graduated from film school at Chapman University in Southern California.  I was bartending to pay rent and trying to make a film about Champagne during World War 1.  A friend of mine named Brian McClintic who was working as a server at Morton’s steak house told me he was going to start taking the first level of tests to become a sommelier.  Brian told me I had to come and see the way they practice for the test, I was blown away.  I watched him practice Blind Tasting, where one has to determine what wines are inside glasses in front of them using only smell and taste.  They could be anything in the world.  It was one of the most insane and beautiful things I had ever seen in my life, I knew we had to set it to music and that it would be my first film.”

“Engaging! Reveals the astonishing level of qualification required to enter the top ranks of sommeliers.” 
- The Hollywood Reporter

“If you dream of becoming a sommelier, or just have a love of wine, this movie is a must-see.” – The Huffington Post

“Fascinating and often funny. Somm makes it clear that Master Sommeliers are more than just dedicated to their profession. They are obsessed.” – Wine Spectator

“Engrossing and well-made. Deserves to be seen by anyone who has ever enjoyed a glass of wine.” – Napa Valley Register

“A delicious tipple. Amusing and suspenseful… entertaining and enlightening.”- New York Post

“A must-watch.”- Serious Eats

UPC: 7-20229-91566-3 | Catalog #: FRF 915663D | SRP: $24.95 | Street Date: September 3

Packaged in 100% Certified Green Forestry Eco-Pack

A Samuel Goldwyn Release

Rick Fraga: Wine Tasting in College

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Picture this scenario: You are in a college classroom, for the first time or later in life as a returning student. Now a step further, at your seating place sit six wine glasses each holding approximately an ounce of Petite Sirah. Yes, that inky, almost black, rich red wine that can turn your teeth purple in an instant. As you observe the wine, sniff the bouquet and sip its rich, tannic juice you listen to your guest speaker, a professional wine judge, talk about the experience. He is there to guide you through a three hour examination of Petite Sirah wines as a professional wine judge would do in a competition. Sound pretty good??? Oh, and the best part is that you are earning college credit for not only today, but doing this for half of a semester. No, this is not a joke, but actually Wine 110 – Professional Wine Judging at Santa Rosa Junior College and it is the 6th of 7 classes in this course where they discuss, taste and judge a very diverse selection of wine.

Admit it, you think that going to college to taste wine is a scam, a dream come true or something I made up, but in reality it is a great opportunity that exists in college today. This class regularly gives its students the opportunity to evaluate Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc or other wines, then document and discuss the strengths and weaknesses of the wines. The final assessment is when the class individually ranks the wines as Gold, Silver, Bronze or No Medal depending upon their sensory examination of the wine. Then the class determines the overall ranking of the wine, which may include some lively discussion.

I am guessing by now you are wondering why I am teasing you with thoughts of wine tasting in college. Well…the answer is because I was fortunate enough to go back to the Wine Studies Program at Santa Rosa Junior College and lead the Professional Wine Judging class through the tasting and judging of 18 Petite Sirahs. The wines were from various regions in California and Washington State, providing a great display of all of the flavors and aromas that define Petite Sirah. It is an experience definitely worth sharing.

This was not my first time having this opportunity to give back to a program that I personally studied through for almost two years. Over the last 2 1/2 years I have had the pleasure of returning and leading the wine judging class, as well as hosting classes for field trips at the various wineries I have worked in the past or currently work at. It is fun and exciting, plus there is something about sharing the wine experience with people that have similar interests and passions.

Enough of the tease, let me share the experience with you and see if I can convince you the value of seeking out similar classes. Depending where you live there are many opportunities to taking wine tasting, sensory evaluation and so many other courses related to wine. You can take them for fun or do as the wine studies students do and use them to seek employment in the wine industry.

The class began with an introduction of the guest wine judge, which in this case is me, and my background. Additionally, I speak about my experiences with the Wine Study program as a student, as well as the other opportunities the program has provided me. As a student, the certificate programs I completed were in Wine Evaluation and Service (Hospitality), then also in Wine Business and Marketing. While participating as a student, I spent time as an intern with the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, then as a judge for the last three years with the same competition. Once I shared that information, it was time to talk Petite Sirah.

We discussed the origins of Petite Sirah, which is basically the child of Syrah and Peloursin, fathered by Francois Durif in the 1860s in France. We traced through the path and history that brought a grape that is virtually non-existent in France now, where it was originally developed, but now thriving in many New World Wine Regions. Once the science and history were complete, we discussed the sensory side of Petite Sirah and the fun began, as it is always better to experience these things than to talk about them. So in an instant we were tasting our way through an education flight of 6 stellar Petites. Listed below are the educational wines:

• 2008 Concannon Livermore Valley Reserve-Polo Field $35

• 2010 Vigilance Winery and Vineyard Red Hills Lake County $24.99

• 2009 Mazzocco Sonoma Dry Creek Valley Pony-Reserve $40

• 2011 Macchia Amador County Bodacious $24

• 2007 Silkwood Wines California Satin Silk $120

• 2009 Wilson Winery Dry Creek Valley Molly’s Vineyard $38

Each wine had won awards, including a sweepstakes winner, a best of class and a double gold winner. This was a great flight of wines to present the diverse nature of Petite Sirah flavors and aromas. There were floral descriptions of Lavender and Violet. We found earthiness like coffee, mushroom, cocoa, barnyard, herbal and black pepper. Then the fruit covered the spectrum of Blackberry, Blueberry, Plum, Black Cherry, Black Raspberry and more. Each of these wines were well made, delicious and a solid expressions of what Petite Sirah has to offer the consumer. So once the class warmed up on the education flight, we moved right on in to the two flights of blind tasting and judging.

The class was definitely into the day’s wine presentation and were very eloquent with their descriptions and fair in their evaluation of the wines. They had a lot to work with as the wines came from a widespread collection of wine regions, like Rockpile, the Livermore Valley, Amador County, Paso Robles, Columbia River Valley, Napa and Dry Creek Valley. Additionally, some of the wineries represented were Dusted Valley, Moshin, Bent Creek, Earthquake, David Fulton, Imagery and others. It was also a challenging day for the students, mainly due to the tannic components of most of these wines, mostly due to their youth. With the exception of two wines from the 2007 vintage, most of the others were 2009-2011. (The ages of these wines lead to astringent, dry mouths by the end of the afternoon. Because of the tannins and acidity in Petite Sirah we also discussed how to treat that evil symptom of Petite Sirah tasting called “Purple Teeth”. Simply put, avoid brushing teeth soon after tasting. Why you ask? Well, the abrasive act of brushing with sometimes gritty toothpaste and the acidic content of the wine combine to possibly damage the enamel of your teeth. It is better to rinse your mouth and find less abrasive products to use, like Wine Wipes that are sold by some tasting rooms and wine retailers.)

By this part of the class, we were all winding down, having enjoyed tasting and talking our way through three excellent and delicious flights of Petite Sirah. We finished up the discussion and sent the class on its way. I took a few minutes to thank Bob Fraser, the Wine Studies program coordinator for the opportunity to return and lead the class. Bob has been involved with the college for quite some time and is stepping down at the end of the semester. He is moving on to be a gentleman farmer in Lake County, growing the same grapes that he has taught so much about over the years. The program will miss him.

I hope this adventure has given some of you food for thought about looking into classes to participate in with the intent to broaden your wine horizons, to maybe pursue work in the wine industry or to just have some fun with other folks. For resources to find wine classes there are many organizations that hold them. Check out local adult education programs through community colleges, culinary schools, possibly through some area wine shops and restaurants, then there is always the internet to guide you. No matter how you get into these types of classes they are fun, educational and a great way to taste new wines and meet a variety of people that work in the industry.

Always remember, “Life is too short to drink bad wine”, by tasting, taking classes and getting to enjoy wine out a bit more you can limit the “bad wine” experience. Thanks for joining in with our wine judging class and allowing me to share a bit more of what is out there and available in the world of wine. Drink well!

The “Last Sip of Summer” Returns in All Corked Up Venue

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It’s the third year for the “Last Sip of Summer” where all proceeds go to assist all 5 SCV school districts, and it’s back at All Corked Up (Cheers@).
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  Look for the blind tasting contest which everyone seems to love.

Last Sip of Summer
Sunday, August 5, 2012
3:00 – 6:00 pm
Cheers @ All Corked Up
$40.00 per person

Info/tickets at http://scveducationfoundation.org

Grand Cru Wine Challenge Results; Montes Winery Ranks High Amongst World’s Best

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TGIC Importers has some exciting news to share from their recent Grand Cru Wine Challenge.
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Elite sommeliers, wine press, and wine educators sat-down to a double blind tasting conducted by Anthony Dias Blue and The Tasting Panel Magazine at the Hotel Sofitel in Los Angeles on June 7. The red carpet was rolled out as “Icon” wines from around the world (California, Chile, France, Italy, and Australia) were poured, swirled and tasted double blind.

This was the first ever Grand Cru Challenge comparative tasting in which Montes wines were among the participants. Aurelio Montes, Founder/Winemaker of Montes Wines and Alex Guarachi, CEO and Founder of TGIC Importers, Montes US based importer, both agreed to submit the Montes M, and the Purple Angel for the Bordeaux tasting and Folly for the Rhone tasting. A total of 8 Bordeaux wines and 4 Rhone wines were poured and tasted. The elite tasting panel ranked all the Bordeaux’s 1 through 8 and then ranked the Rhone wines 1 through 4.

The wines were score on a traditional 100 point scale.  A total of 156 review and score sheets were collected and then announced. The Bordeaux flight ultimately ranked Chateau Lafite Rothschild as #1, Montes M as #2 and Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia as #3, Montes Purple Angel as #4 and Opus One as #5.
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The Rhone flight showed equally well for Montes as Montes Folly took first place, Penfolds Grange ranked #2, Chapoutier Ermitage “L’Ermite” ranked #3, Bonacorssi Syrah Star Lane Vineyard ranked #4.

l-r Aurelio Montes,Melissa McAvoy, Alex Guarachi Grand Cru Challenge

TGIC was extremely happy with the results, and wanted to share this news with Eve Wine 101 readers!