Romania Birthplace of the Gods of Wine

January 16, 2014 by evebushman

Legend has it that the Greek God of Wine, Dionysus (who was initially a Thracian god) was born in Romania. It is no surprise that in antiquity, Plato himself, declared the vineyards of Getae (Romania, as it was known to the ancient Greeks) to be the best in the world. Once the Romans came on to the scene, the peoples and the the kingdom of Getae became known as Dacia. With Emperor Trajan’s conquest of these lands in the first century of the common era, Romania has been dominated by Latin influences. The language is in fact, along with Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, and French, a Romance language. Tucked away in the southwestern corner of Europe, where the Blue Danube opens into the Black Sea, the ancient land of Romania can boast a proud history of making wines for over 4,000 years.

Contrary to popular myth, Gypsies do not traverse the land. There are no vampires in Romania. Count Dracula and his minions do not dwell in the Carpathian Mountains. Romania is simply one of the world’s largest wine producers. Most international varietals thrive due to the country’s rich soil and dry summers.

After watching Eve and Paul Kalemkiarian’s review of a Feteasca wine, I decided to share some of Romania’s indigenous varietals with our readers. Today I am in the city of Bucharest with Long time friend and fellow sommelier, Valeria Dadiani. We are in Bruno’s, a small and cozy wine bar that is renown for its selection of wines.

“Bruno’s is definitely one of the capital’s most popular wine bars,” she flashed a wide beaming smile as she poured our first selection.

Feteasca Alba, the “white maiden” in Romanian is widely grown throughout the region of Transylvania. In essence, it is a wine for all reasons. So versatile, Feteasca Alba is used to make everything from dry, semi-dry, sweet, and sparkling wines. The wines all share a distinctive peachy aroma that is quite similar to that of Muscat.

Valeria had selected a 2011 Prahova Valley Reserve. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for 14 days, the result is a wonderfully fresh wine that is medium dry, and very easy to drink. In the glass, the 2011 is an enticing pale yellow. The bouquet exudes aomas of exotic fruits, white flowers, and elder trees. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $20.

“I would recommend serving this wine chilled,” Valeria paused lightly. “Around 45-46 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“Agreed,” I added with a nod. “What dishes would you pair Feteasca Alba?”

“Light cheeses, salads, fish, seafood,” she giggled softly. “My girlfriends and I often enjoy the Prahova Valley as an aperitif.”

“Nicely done,” I lauded her as I refilled our glasses.

Our next selection, Tamaioasa Romaneasca is also widely planted throughout the Transylvania region. The varietal is from the Near East family of Muscatel. It is believed that the Greeks and Romans, who favored their natural sweetness, were the first to bring these grapes to Romania. Due to their natural sweetness, the grapes are a preferred choice in producing aromatic wines, and is easily distinguishable by a pronounced honey-like bouquet.

Valeria selected a Prince Stirbey Tamaioasa Romaneasca Sec 2012. The Stirbey family not only produces wines of distinction, their name is synanomous with the developement of wines in Romania. In the glass, it is a radiant yellow, striated with greenish hues. Upon opening the bottle, I was greeted by an unrivalled symphony of aromas.
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The inviting floral bouquet that is filled with pears, strawberries, and honey. There are also notes of spices laced with hints of basil and freshly cut hay. The wine is fresh, with good acidity and very easy to drink. The finish is soft and clean. The alcohol content is 13% and an excellent buy at only $15.

“This is another wine that I prefer chilled,” Valeria gave a nod of assurance. “It is also popular to serve as an aperitif.”

“What about food pairings?” I queried.

“Definitely prawns,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “Your favorite, Quiche Lorraine, and my favorite, Tarte a l’oigen.”

A thought came to mind as I savored my wine. “I like the spice notes so I would pair it with select Asian dishes.”

Our next selection, Busuioaca de Bohotin, is a light red wine. It originates in Bohotin County which is located in the southeast of Romania. One distinguishable characteristic of this wine is the slight hint of bitter almonds on the bouquet. In flavor, this style of wine resembles honeysuckle, strongly influenced by ripe juicy peaches.

Valeria selected a 2010 Crama Veche Busuioaca de Bohotin. In the glass the lovely light red color casts a welcome invitation. On the nose, the bouquet is bursting with fragrant honeysuckle and ripe peach. Light and well balanced, the 2010 is the perfect wine when lounging around with that special someone. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $12.

“When I am in the mood for some wine and some soft cheese, I often turn to Busuioaca de Bohotin,” Valeria cast a playful smile. “Crama Veche is among my favorites.”

“I eat very little soft cheese, however, I think this wine would pair nicely with mildly spiced Asian dishes.”

“I think I know what we will be eating for supper,” she playfully teased. “That was your second reference to Asian food.”

Our last selection, Babeasca Negra, is an old native Romanian varietal which dates back some 2,000 years. The name translates as “grandmother’s black grape.” Reigning as Romania’s most popular wine, it is prolic throughout the regions of Moldavia, Dobruja, and Wallachia. (the kingdom of the infamous Prince Vlad Dracula) Most wines produced from this varietal are light and fruity, and meant for early consumption.

Valeria selected a Monser Babeasca Negra Demised. In the glass, this inviting semi-dry ruby-red wine is striated with black currant hues. The nose is permeated by well-ripened grapes. On the palate, this demisec is pleasant and crisp. The mouth feel is vibrant, yet subtle, with a unique flavor all its own. I did detect only a faint taste of sour cherry on the mid-palate.The finish is long and well-rounded. The alcohol content is 13% and a price tag of $13.

“Babeasca Negra is at its best when served with grilled meats … “

“That’s it!” I broke in. “Indonesian satay, accompanied by some lightly spiced dishes is the perfect way to end the evening … But that my friends, is a different story.”

Benelux Spirits and Liqueurs

January 9, 2014 by evebushman

Settling back into my seat, I languidly surveyed my surroundings. Luxembourg’s CafeKonrad is quite the place to enjoy a cozy afternoon with friends and enjoy some fine liqueurs. My thoughts drifted back to California. Growing up in Los Angeles, I never would have thought I would adjust so well to the harsh winters of Europe. In LA when the temperature drops to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, we Angelinos are predicting the possible end of the world. A terrible day for me was when I had to put up the top on my M Roadster. Then again, my heated seats were a big help in enduring the cold just a tad longer. Ok, my apologies for having a laugh at the expense of my readers who have never been to sunny Southern California. Our weather is typically warm and lovely most year round.

Today, I am joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Martine Ries. Martine and I were classmates at, ESS, the European School for Sommelier. We have met today for a special tasting of spirits from the Benelux Nations, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg. Hence the name. This economic union between the “countries of the lowlands” has been in existence since 1950. For those of you who are not familiar with this part of Europe, both Belgium and the Netherlands are often referred to as the “Lowlands,” which most scholars agree is a loose Latin translation from when the Romans controlled the region. Luxembourg, on the other hand, is referred to the “Gibraltar of the North.” This is because of the duchy’s impregnable Fortress of Luxembourg. Unfortunately, the landmark site was demolished in 1883.

For today’s tasting, Martine selected one of Luxembourg’s most popular cafees, the Konrad. “Which spirit is up first?”

“Jenever, from the Netherlands,” she smiled as she filled our glasses.

Jenever is the national drink of the Netherlands and first distilled circa 1500s. It is a juniper based spirit that is some times referred to as “Dutch or Holland gin.” There are two types of Jenever, “oude” and “jonge” (old and new). This reference is with regard to distilling technique, not aging. Jonge is a blended spirit, primarily from grain alcohol, and infused with juniper. However, alcohol derived from molasses or sugar beets are quite acceptable in the blending process. Oude is distilled with only grains such as wheat, rye, and or barley, along with an infusion of juniper. Oude is sometimes aged in wood, resulting in malty, woody, and smoky flavors in the same vein as whiskey.

“Tulip glasses,” I queried, as I examined the traditional ceramic styled bottle of Zuidam Young Grain Jenever.

“This is the traditional way to serve Jenever. Some even prefer it chilled or on the rocks,” Martine chuckled softly. “Purists such as yourself would balk at the thought.”

“Touche,” I chuckled. The nose on our Jenever was lightly scented with juniper, vanilla, and bread. The mouth-feel was characteristically gentle and easy to drnk. The alcohol content is 35% with a price tag of $40.

“I’m glad you enjoyed it because I know that you are not particularly fond of gin,” Martine’s eyes brightened as she smiled.

Our next selection, Van Wees Zeer Oude Jenever, is from one of the Netherlands top distillers. The nose permeated delicate aromas of juniper, vanilla, oak, and grain. On the palate, there were rich flavors grain, with notes of toffe and fudge. Aged for just over a year in oak, this oude Jenever is 37% alcohol with a price tag of $55.

“I selected two young spirits,” Martine paused lightly. “Do keep in mind that Jenever ages well, and brands that have been aged for 25-35 have also left their mark on the international market.”

Mandarine Napoleon, was it really Emperor Napoleon’s favorite liqueur? Hardly. Mandarine Napoleon though one of Belgium’s oldest liqueurs, was first distilled by Antoine-Francois de Fourcroy in 1892, dispelling the myth that the liqueur was a favorite of the Emperor.

Most Triple Secs actually contain orange peels from Curacao, while De Kuyper’s Mandarine Napoleon uses only the finest Mandarin oranges. In turn, they have been macerated for four weeks in neutral grain spirits, and then combined with exotic spices. These include, cardamon, cinnamon angelica, clove, nutmeg, along with black and green teas. The resulting liqueur is a subtle blend of tenderness and passion, and an unforgettable experience. Meant to be drunk neat, the bouquet is wonderfully scented and followed by a mouth-feel of citrus fruit that is sure to warm the cockles of your heart. The alcohol content is 38% with a price tag of $35.

“I love the warm fuzzy feeling I get after the first glass,” Martime giggled under her breath. “Mandarine Napoleon has been known to sneak up on those who imbibe, so I will issue a warning beforehand.”

“On that note, how about another one of those little tummy warmers,” we simultaneously broke into laugher.

Modern cassis first appeared in 1841, and Luxembourg’s Chateau de Beaufort Cassero Liqueur is among the best. It is made solely from blackcurrants. All natural, dark red in color, it is a very popular after dinner liqueur.
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Typically it is served neat and very well chilled. However, it is popular, and quite acceptable, to serve mixed. In Luxembourg the most popular mix with Cassero is cherry brandy. Champagne, white wine, and soda water are all popular mixes. The alcohol content is 15% with a price tag of $45.

“Some of my countrymen also prefer to take Cassero with hot water,” she shook her head in non-approval. “I guess the thought here would be like a type of grog.”

“Definitely not my palate,” I cracked an amused smile. On completely different note, Agatha Christie’s fictional detective, Hercule Poirot, was quite fond of drinking cassis. I am sure that Chareau de Beaufort was among his favorites.

“But that my friends, is another story …”

Taste of Sta. Rita Hills with Antonio Moretti

September 6, 2013 by evebushman

During a recent trip to the Lompoc Ghetto (see story in the Oct/Nov issue of Elite magazine) the first ghetto room owner that I interviewed, with 30 years of experience in the wine business, was Antonio Moretti.

Moretti said that he “moved here for the wine that is produced here,” with a special nod to the western side as it’s more European in style. The “unique flavors that remind me of Europe, a little Burgundy. Each vineyard has its own flavor. It’s not the winemaker, it’s the grapes that are unique in flavor.”

Then I watched and listened as Moretti described each wine, winery, winemaker, appellation…etc., of every wine he poured. The attention to detail, and his obvious passion to the task, were forefront. I could not help but comment that I had not experienced such devotion – to other winemakers – from the people that have poured for me in other winery collective tasting rooms.

As I took diligent notes as Moretti spoke, my own tasting notes were lacking. If Moretti hadn’t been so interesting the case may have been opposite. But I believe you will gain more from his knowledge than my own meager one in comparison. But, as I couldn’t resist, I pulled out one descriptor for every wine I tasted that grabbed me – like an inkblot test and I wrote down the first thing that came to mind.

Tasting Sta. Rita Hills

Moretti Bianchetto, 2011: This is what Moretti drinks at home. He said it was light, dry, crisp and focused; and good with food. The grapes are picked earlier, which allows for the 12 percent alcohol. Moretti likes lower alcohol for two reasons: he can drink it throughout a meal and the wines have brighter acidity because the fruit was not overripe when picked. The bright acidity “keeps the palate clean.” All house wines are low alcohol in Europe, Moretti said, but as Americans want a glass of wine to stand alone there is traditionally more alcohol and less acidity in our wines here. My one descriptor: Lychee.

El Rey Pinot Noir 2011: Susan and Derek McLeish own the winery. It is a small production farm in a micro climate area about a mile from the Sta. Rita Hills AVA border. They only give their Garagiste wines to the tasting room to sell, according to Moretti, whatever they haven’t consumed themselves. They have full bodied fruit from their vineyards, and the cooler nights creates a thicker skinned grape and darker colored wine. My one descriptor: Cinnamon.

Seagrape Pinot Noir, Jump Up Vineyard, 2010: The winery has nothing to do with Buttonwood but Karen Steinwachs, the winemaker at Buttonwood, is the owner and sole winemaker at Seagrape. She used two to three year old barrels and blended grapes from two different vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills. Moretti said the wine was both drinkable and age-able, and a typical example of a Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir. He said that the east AVA area makes a unique Pinot Noir that stands alone, while the western AVA needs food. He added that this Pinot was a good pairing wine; and with duck or boar, the wine blooms. My one descriptor: Cherry.

Ken Brown Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills Cuvee 2010: Moretti said that this wine was good with food and could also stand alone as it was balanced, and grown from the warmer side of Sta. Rita Hills. Brown used 50% Rio Vista fruit (which gives the fruit-forward impact because it is warmer there), and the balance comes from two cooler weather spots – Rancho La Vina and Rita’s Crown. With 2012 Ken will be bottling a single vineyard Pinot Noir from Rita’s Crown,- and Moretti suggests we try that. My one descriptor: Cherry.

Kessler-Haak Syrah, Lafond Vineyard 2010: Moretti said that they purchased the fruit from Lafond. As this one had higher acidity Moretti sent his assistant out to bring us back some Italian salami to try with it. The salami “reduces acid and the flavor pops” Moretti said. It would be good with BBQ or steak. A north Rhone style grape grown in cooler weather, again producing thicker skin and more pigmentation. My one descriptor: Red fruit.

Cebada, Forbidden Fruit Libation: Cebada is a farm (Forbidden Fruit Orchards) in a unique micro-climate, and grows berries, bananas, guava, kiwi, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Moretti finds owner Sandra Newman’s port-style blueberry wine interesting winemaking – as it tastes like port. She aged the berries in French barrels, adds sugar and brandy (making it fortified) but no grapes. I thought this one required a longer one descriptor: needs-a-pancake.

Gypsy Canyon, Ancient Vine Angelica, Marcelina’s Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills: This is a fortified dessert wine, and according to Moretti it’s between a Madeira and a Sauterne. He suggested that we pair it with cheese. The Franciscans in the San Gabriel Mission began making this wine in 1771. My one descriptor: Intense.

About The Tasting Room(s)

Taste of Sta. Rita Hills* is a wine tasting room and retail store located in the Lompoc Wine Ghetto owned by Antonio Moretti and dedicated to representing local producers who do not have tasting rooms regularly open to the public: The current list of wineries they represent are: Clos Pepe, Seasmoke, Brewer-Clifton, Gypsy Canyon, El Rey, Thorne, Ken Brown, Walt, Seagrape, Ryan Cochrane, Cebada Forbidden Fruit, Dolina, Kessler-Haak, Rarus, Kita’ and Moretti.

And when you are there, make a point of visiting with Moretti’s wife, Jeni, at the Moretti Wines’ tasting room a ghetto-block away. “At Moretti, we are dedicated to producing well-balanced, food-friendly wines in a European tradition.”

(*Editor’s note: The abbreviation of Santa Rita Hills into Sta. Rita Hills is the accepted title of the AVA.)

Vive La Rosè Revolution! Real Men Drink Pink Party Arrives in Paso 6/23!

June 17, 2013 by evebushman

As you already know, a cult rosè craze has been going on for the past 5 years over sophisticated European style rosè. Cypher Winery and more than 20 of the top rosè producers in Paso Robles would like to personally invite you to a grand tasting of the best European style rosè in our AVA.

The Rosè Revolution has inspired us to create a unique event aimed at dispelling the misconceptions about rosè (this is NOT your mother’s White Zinfandel!) and allowing us to celebrate the spirit of a wine we love.
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The 2nd Annual Real Men Drink Pink party will be an exclusive beach party held at Star Farms in Paso Robles, a half-acre lagoon oasis featuring panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards! Elite rosè producers in Paso Robles will be pouring, the best of the city’s culinary talent will be cooking, and our headlining band The English Beat will be keeping the party going throughout the afternoon. All proceeds from the event will go to Cancer Support Community’s Breast Cancer Care Fund and must! charities.

Cheers,

Cypher Winery
Phone: (805) 237-0055
Abby@Cypherwinery.com

Real Men Drink Pink – Sunday, June 23rd, 2013

Where: Star Farms @ 7835 Estrella Road, San Miguel, CA 93451

Rosé Grand Tasting 1:00 – 2:30 p.m.
More than 20 of the top rosé producers in Paso Robles will pour and talk PINK.

PINK Party 2:30 – 5:00 p.m.
A DJ set, a performance by The English Beat, lounging on the beach in hammocks and beach chairs, and SWIMMING in the half-acre blue lagoon.
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Food and additional rosé-by-the-glass will be available for purchase.

Tickets:
www.REALMENDRINKPINK.org or call the Cypher Tasting Room @ 805-237-0055.

Gregory Alonzo: Is Corn Vodka Unaged Whiskey?

March 7, 2013 by evebushman

Due to all the interest from our readers, we decided to conduct a tasting with corn based vodkas. Who would have thought that finding this style of spirit in Europe would be such a difficult task.

My living room table had been set and everything was ready to go, with the exception of a most important addition. If you guessed my long time friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko, you are absolutely correct.

Not to worry, Elena is always fashionably late. Just then my doorbell rang. Right on time. Exactly ten minutes passed the hour.

“Zahodte, come in,” I greeted her with a kiss on each cheek.

“Grisha,” Elena’s eyes sparkled softly. “What is it that amuses you?”

“I was just commenting on how you are always exactly ten minutes late.”

“My dear Grisha,” she flashed me a quick wink. “Anything under ten minutes would be unseemly and not all fashionable. Over ten minutes would just be rude.”

“Touche,” I took her coat and motioned her to the living room.

“Wherever did you find so many different types of corn vodka?” As she surveyed the setting, the look on Elena’s face was one of great surprise. “The other day when we went shopping we found only one brand.”

“I called a couple of friends at the US and Canadian embassies,” I paused lightly. “I had to trade some of my Polish vodka.

“On a completely different note,” she paused on the moment. “We should inform our readers that corn vodka is not unaged whiskey.”

“Precisely. Different stills are often used in the making of each spirit, and with a completely different objective in mind, “ I paused to collect my thoughts. “There are also much different standards when it comes to distilling whiskey. If anything, corn vodka is a type of moonshine.”

“Dobrey, let’s drink,” Elena said in anticipation.

Our first selection hails from Newfoundland, Canada. Iceberg proudly boasts that they have come up with the wold’s purest vodka. The distillers have come up with a truly unique vodka by actually using the water from icebergs. Each spring the company harvests tons of ice from the region’s famous “Iceberg Alley.” Iceberg has literally put a new twist on claiming the purity of the waters used in their spirits. To add to the vodka’s allure, only the best Ontario sweet corn is used in the triple distilling of Iceberg. The alcohol content is 40% with a price of $25.

“I found Iceberg to be a bit harsh and without definite character,” Elena nodded in finality.

“Definitely not distinctive and lacking in flavor,” I paused for effect. “There is also more burn on the finish than I find acceptable.”

“Perhaps if they had tried something like at Reyka,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “A final filtration over lava rock.”

“Lava rock?” I flashed Elena a broad smile. “Our next vodka did just that.”

Nude Vodka is quite vogue in the States these days. It is out of Bend, Oregon. Nude Spirits uses only the finest Oregon corn, spring water from the Cascade Mountains, and has been distilled five times. A key difference with Nude, is an attempt to create a vodka with its own distinctive flavor. This is done with a final filtration through volcanic rock. The result is a smooth tasting and elegant vodka for even the most discerning of palates. It is 40% alcohol with a price tag of $30.

“I agree,” Elena was pleasantly surprised. “It definitely has its own character and much more flavorful than I would have thought. I especially like the mineral quality.”

“Yes, I like the mouth feel to this well-rounded vodka.” I gave Elena a nod of approval. “I think it is the filtration through the crushed volcanic rock that makes the difference. Definitely a vodka worth sipping.”

“I also like the finish,” Elena moistened her lips. “Quite smooth with almost no burn. I think that Nude would also make an excellent martini.”

Our next selection was another fashionable vodka from the States. Prairie Organic is handcrafted from certified organic yellow corn grown from a co-op of 900 Minnesota farmers. The distillers pride themselves on a spirit that is smooth, practically flavorless with a finish to match.
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It is 40% alcohol with a price tag of $25.

“On the nose I did pick up some hints of melon,” Elena remarked in a subtle tone. “It was also a bit velvety on the palate with a long smooth finish.”

“I think you are a bit too generous,” I shook my head in disagreement. “I found the aroma lightly medicinal, just enough to agitate me. On the palate, I found it to be somewhat bland though I do agree that the finish was smooth and with no aftertaste.
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Overall, I think this vodka is just too clean.”

“Perhaps a dirty martini would liven things up,” Elena chuckled under her breath.

Our last selection was another premium vodka from Canada. Pur Ultra Premium Vodka is made entirely in Quebec. It is distilled from the finest sweet corn from the province, glacier water, and the traditional charcoal filtration to achieve maximum purity. The result is a clean, polished spirit. The alcohol content is 40% and the price tag is $40.

“I picked up faint aromas of spicy custard pastry and honey,” Elena’s eyes crinkled softly. “However, there was a hint of juniper that was enough to distract me.”

“Obviously, we are not gin drinkers,” we both laughed in unison. “There is a distinct apple-peel taste to this medium to full-bodied vodka. I did like the peppery finish.”

“Grisha, I think distillers who have a preference for corn vodka are pursuing a different end than what we purists prefer,” she said flatly.”

“I agree whole-heartedly. Their objective seems to be a spirit that is clean, smooth, almost tasteless, and with almost no burn,” I shrugged shoulders. “I would guess the emphasis is on creating the ultimate spirit for cocktails.”

“Most Ukrainians are traditionalist,” Elena smiled with amusement. “If there is no burn, it is not vodka.”

“What do you say to cleansing our palates with a big bowl of borsch?”

“’Panas Restaurant!” Elena was quick to share her excitement. “You know I love this Restaurant. What ever made you think of Panas?”

“Well, it is only across the street,” I muttered to myself. But Borsch at Panas, that my friends is a different story …”