Vintage Eve Circa 8/2011: Edward Sellers is Roussanne and Ready

April 12, 2016 by evebushman

At a recent Grape of the Night event, that a dozen or more friends attend under the tutelage of Eve’s Wine 101 staff writer Rusty Sly, the assigned varietal was one none of us was overly familiar with: Roussanne.

l-r: Guy Lelarge, Jason Park and Edward Sellers

Grape of the Night, for those of you new to Eve’s Wine 101, is an event Rusty created with friends in Florida. Their wine shop, now sadly closed, organized an event where wine friends – both novice and expert – met every month over a different wine varietal. The idea being that dedicating the palate to one varietal guests would detect nuances more readily, learn and decide what they liked the most. In our west coast version, held at Valencia Wine Company usually on the first or second Monday each month, guests are asked to bring or buy a bottle to share. (One bottle per person or couple, and if you bring a bottle, our deal with the bar is to purchase one of theirs.) Lots of chatter, as each person is tasked with talking about the wine they brought. Our biggest challenge is usually finding the varietal, as Rusty often adds the caveat that it must be 85% or greater of the one we are studying. At the end of the evening, Rusty takes a general consensus as to what we will try the next month.

Now, back to Roussanne. Rusty said, “Some of the descriptors you will find will run from fruit to floral, look for things like herbal tea, apricot and honey. If the wine is aged in oak it will be decidedly more rich, and those aged in stainless will allow more floral and mineral notes to come forward.”

Tracy Sly, Rusty’s trusty note-taker-wife, receives all of the bottles poured at her table after we pour everyone a splash. Lucky for me, as I brought the Edward Sellers Roussanne, I was only tasked with the results for one. (You can go to http://evewine101.com and search “Grape of the Night” to see whichever varietal you want to see our results on.)

Edward Sellers Vineyard and Wines (2016 note: sadly Edward Sellers Vineyard is now closed)

I’d met Ed Sellers many years ago when he and his wife, Dani, traveled to Santa Clarita from Paso Robles, for a wine pairing dinner organized by Guy Lelarge, owner of Valencia Wine Company, and held at Maru Sushi. (Article: http://oldsite.the-signal.com/?module=displaystory&story_id=49817&format=print) Suffice it to say, it was an awesome pairing.

Many other times since then I’d seen Ed Sellers, at Family Winemakers in Pasadena, and, most recently, with his full line-up at Rhone Rangers LA. Anyway, it was a good opportunity to taste all of Ed’s wines again, all receiving high marks from me, and decide that bringing his 100% Roussanne to Grape of the Night would be a stellar idea.

Tasting Edward Sellers 2008 Roussanne: Grape of the Night Group Consensus

Color – Clear, golden-hued, diamonds on surface, deeper honeyed edge.

Aroma – Lemon, pear, pineapple, all carried through to the taste.

Taste – Lemon-peel, pear, some nice minerality, acidity and a lovely viscosity over the mouth.

Finish – Medium length.

Conclusion – Of course I loved it. I think it may have been the only 100% Roussanne of the night. And though it was a great surprise to find that so many Roussanne ended up varying in taste, this one was a standout. Vic Herstein, newly ensconced at Valencia Wine Company, was a fan as well so I’m hoping that Guy will stock some soon!

From www.EdwardSellers.com

At Harvest, this was a ripe Roussanne, with its characteristic russet skin and flawlessly balanced acid and sugar. The wine these grapes produced is complex and structured, with Grape- fruit, pear, and white plum aromas. In the mouth, candied fruit is perfectly weighted by subtle custard notes and echoes of vanilla, cashew, and meringue. Hints of brine and granite lead to a lingering finish that integrates all of the elements that mark this distinctive wine.

Roussanne Statistics:

Blend: 100% Roussanne

Appellation: Paso Robles

Alcohol: 12.8%

T.A.: 4.8 g/L

pH: 3.80

R.S.: 0.18%

Cooperage: 100% Barrel fermented

Bottle Date: April 2009

Release Date: March 2011

Production: 98 Cases

~~Edward Sellers Vineyard and Wines~~

~~1401 West Highway 46~~

~~Paso Robles, CA 93446~~

~~805-239-8915~~

~~www.EdwardSellers.com~~

Wine 101: Liking One Wine

June 27, 2014 by evebushman

Whether your wine choices are motivated by habit, price, a favorite wine grape or a wine grape growing region, this article will help you move forward from your current wine tastes by expanding your palate – just a bit.

One of my staff writers, Rusty Sly, holds a monthly tasting and brief lesson at Valencia Wine Company called Grape of the Night. The idea was prompted by a similar monthly event he used to attend in Florida years ago in which the group leader chose a single varietal, say a wine that is made from 85% to 100% from California Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, or Shiraz, or Chardonnay…and so on. Then each guest is prompted to bring a bottle of the selected varietal to share, taste and discuss. This is how you can do it yourself and what can be learned from a tasting like this:

You can set a price limit, so that your new discovery is within your budget and so that each person is investing about the same amount.
Though Rusty does a short lesson, and chooses the varietal, you don’t have to do it that way. You can ask your guests for their favorite varietals and then vote on it. Then ask them be prepared at the tasting to share a little about the wine they brought and what they know about the varietal in general.
Once you only taste one kind of wine you can start to see subtle differences between terroir (a word that refers to the region a grape was grown in), winemaker style and that year’s particular climate. I prefer to take notes.
When tasted side-by-side, and really focusing on what you taste, you will begin to appreciate the subtle differences between the wines – though they are all the same varietal. There is more pepper in some Zins than others and more lemon in some Sauvignon Blancs – now you’ll be able to find the flavors you’re really after.
Tasting with others allows you the opportunity to hear different ideas, not just read what the winemaker wrote on the back of the label. (Keep in mind that tasting can be very subjective. So if you have someone like me at your tasting that says something like, “Wow, this 100% Pinot Noir tastes like crushed red cherries and their stems” you may get stuck with that image.)
You will now be able to make better, more educated decisions about your wine selection next time.
If you’ve been in a rut, with a wine club you’ve held onto for too long or just doing the “swallow”, having a tasting like this will definitely get you interested in getting your hands on new wineries that are making your favorite varietal.

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column.

Grape of the Night: Exploring French Chardonnays

June 2, 2014 by evebushman

The origin of Chardonnay is from the Burgundy region of France. Like French Bordeaux and Burgundy wines the French Chardonnays are named according to the region that they come from. French Chardonnays are commonly called White Burgundies since they are believed to have originated in the Burgundy region of France.

French and American Chardonnays are very different in flavor as discovered by the Grape of the Night (GOTN) group. French Chardonnays are rich with an abundance of fruit flavors. They generally have no oak on the nose or palate and have a fair amount of acidity to give it a bright and crisp taste on the palate. The other key feature is the minerality that can be found in these wines. French Chardonnays, like most French wines, offer a unique complexity with layers of unique flavors and aromatics.

The American/New World version of this wine is extremely different. Americans, in general, love their Chardonnays oaky, buttery and full-bodied. This difference stems mostly from the wine making or vinification process. The primary reason for the buttery, creamy, soft, full-bodied flavor is due to Malolactic Fermentation (MLF). This is the style that is most sought after in America. France uses very little MLF compared to the United States.

MLF is a chemical process that converts strong malic acid to a softer lactic acid by using a lactic acid bacteria. This process softens the wine and creates a more fuller mouth feel.

Another difference is that the French ferment/age their Chardonnays in neutral oak, cement or stainless steel where Americans use oak barrels (new oak). The stainless, with little MLF, produces a very crisp and bright Chardonnay with fantastic fruits on the nose and palate. American Chardonnays with their MLF process and oak barrels produce buttery, oaky, full-bodied wines with hints of vanilla. Another difference is the result of the cooler temperatures of France compared to California. Therefore, French Chardonnays have a lighter body, lower alcohol and higher acidity compared to California Chardonnays.

The GOTN attendees that came to this tasting brought some fine examples. The list and tasting notes are as follows.

2009 Cru Domaine Testut Montee de Tonnerre, Chablis Premier Cru

Aroma – Crisp
Palate – Tropical fruit, minerality, spices with nice body

2009 Domaine des Deux Roches Mâcon-Villages

Aroma – Acacia (Thorn Tree), vanilla, minerality and pears
Palate – Lemon, acidic on the finish
Pairs well with fish such as salmon

2010 Evening Land Mersault

Aroma – Hazelnuts and wild flowers
Palate – Butter, minerality, acidity and spices on the finish

2011 Vin de Bourgogne Blanc Vielles Vignes

Aroma – Light Earthiness, barnyard and petroleum
Palate – Creamy and light citrus

It was quite evident from this tasting that the American and French vintners are targeting a completely different clientele with their wines. One of the comments that was brought up was the French Chardonnays were meant to go with food. One of the members purchased a cheese plate to test this hypothesis and it was found to be quite true. Wines in the Old World are a common daily beverage consumed for lunch, dinner, etc. Americans want that big full-bodied buttery Chardonnay that can be savored on its own. Both are very successful in their own realm. The question to you is, what kind of wine do you like? Why not have and use both, one with a meal and one by the fireplace for instance. It is your decision.

I would like to thank Valencia Wine Company for their endless support of GOTN not to mention the wine lovers of Santa Clarita. Thank you to all that made this an educational and informative evening.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Grape of the Night: The Uniqueness of Riesling Wines

March 17, 2014 by evebushman

Riesling Wines are very interesting and allure many different types of wine drinkers. It has been my finding that people that are not really serious wine drinkers tend to go for the sweeter versions of this style of wine but it goes much deeper than satisfying non wine drinkers. There are many different styles of Riesling wines. Riesling is a noble grape that originated in the Rhine region of Germany where it still dominates. This varietal of wine shows definite characteristics dependant on the terroir that it comes from. Cool climates, such as Germany, have high acidity and exhibit apple type flavors. Warmer climates, like Australia, tend to display a lime characteristic. The characteristics of this German origin wine is that it has a very floral bouquet with flavors of peach, honey and apricot on the palate. Let’s throw in a little shocker, “Not all Rieslings are sweet”. Rieslings from Alsace tend to be drier than other areas. Rieslings are actually broken up into five different styles based heavily on sweetness; from driest to sweetest they are Kabinett, Spaltlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese.

One amazing fact that I discovered is that good Rieslings, due to the high acidity and sugar content, can be cellared forever. By that I mean 50-100 years in some fine Rieslings. This just blows me away. We are always looking at body, acids and appropriate chemistry to determine the cellar life expectancy of our red wines yet a Riesling, with its normal high acid and sugar, will age for many years. Aged Rieslings however do take on definite characteristics of petrol and honey notes. Riesling is among the top three choices by consumers for white varietals next to Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Another item that is interesting is that Rieslings are never oaked.

Though we had a very small turnout at our monthly Grape of the Night (GOTN) meeting, due to the holiday season, we had some fine examples from three different terroirs.

2012 Bernan Griffin – Columbia Washington

· Aroma: Green apples

· Taste: Refreshing with light acidity

J. Koces Zeller Schwartz Katz – Mosel region of Germany

· Aroma: Peach and Honey

· Taste: Glycerin, lower acid and creamy

2011 Firestone Riesling – Central Coast California

· Aroma: Dried peach

· Taste: Glycerin, medium acid, bright fruit, little sweeter, apricot, dried peach and stone fruits

Rieslings are very unique and probably among one of the most misunderstood wines. By this I mean that when you ask people if they would like a glass of Riesling wine most assume that it will be sweet. Though we only had three bottles for the GOTN, it was quite evident that not all Rieslings are sweet. My personal favorite Riesling is Jos. Prum Kabinett from Mosel, Germany. This wine is well balanced in sweetness (though slightly dry), with minerality and a perfect acid balance with apricot being on the nose and palate. Many of these characteristics were seen in the J. Koces Zeller Schwartz Katz, which is also from the Mosel region of Germany, that was poured during our GOTN tasting. There is a fine line between balance of sweetness versus thick and syrupy sweet. The great thing with Rieslings is that they offer various subtypes to allow you to select throughout this range of sweetness and style. If you are pairing with various types of foods this opens the door to a wide range of appetizers, entrees and desserts. One pairing example that may surprise you is that spicy foods go well with a good Riesling.

GOTN Riesling was an experience that opened many eyes on a wine that most of us shy away from thinking they are all sweet. I hope that this tasting enlightened those that came to a new experience with such a fantastic varietal.

I want to thank everyone that attended GOTN Riesling. I hope that the knowledge and excitement about wines and wine knowledge is shared by all. I would like to thank Guy Lelarge for allowing us to enjoy the warm service and hospitality of Valencia Wine Company. Guy and his staff are top notch in my book. Hope to see everyone at our next wine adventure.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

What’s in the Bag for Grape of the Night (GOTN)

December 9, 2013 by evebushman

What’s in the bag? That is the question that was asked of the GOTN folks at our last tasting. Most of the active members have been with the group for quite a while and are fairly savvy wine drinkers. So I ask you, what better way to challenge our wine senses than to sample and analyze wines that are covered and unknown to the participants? Each couple/member was asked to bring a wine to the tasting in a bag and was numbered so that the person that brought the wine would not spill the beans.

Blind tasting for me is the ultimate. The key advantage is that it forces everyone to rely on their senses rather than label, price point or rating. The best way to attack an unknown is to follow a defined path to get to the answer. In my line of work we call that a fishbone. As you see or find a certain key feature it eliminates many items that do not fit. So let’s walk through a simple process. For our blind tasting, no information was provided (100% blind).

Look at what the wine shows you from a visual perspective with a good light or against a white paper. Look at the color as all varietals have a distinct color. For example, Rieslings are white where typical chardonnays are yellow to golden. On the red side, most pinot noirs are lighter than say your big cabs which are very dark. Some wines, like Petite Sirah, can be dark purple.

Next, twirl the wine. Does it form long legs or none at all? Long legs will show viscosity of the wine and if it has a high glycerin level. The legs are indicative of the alcoholic content of the wine. Remembering that warmer climates produce higher alcohol and cooler temperatures produce lower alcohol you have more information to help with your fishbone. Big, thick long legs would point more toward warm climates like Australia even though many Paso Zins are not far behind. If there are little or no legs we could look at terroirs like Germany and regions of France that are much cooler and therefore the wines have less alcohol.

Wine pigment is also helpful in providing information. Older wines both white and red display certain pigments. Whites tend to gain color with age. Depending on the varietals they can go from white or straw to almost golden. Look at the example below of the much sought after Chateau Yquem sauterne that has a lot of age, the left is a 1999 and the right a 1973. They appear to be different wines yet they are the same wine only different vintages.

Reds are a little different. They develop a garnet to crimson color which is indicative of oxygen and the aging process. Very old reds from Bordeaux, France as well as aged cabernets from California, show these pigment changes. Though the French wines can and do age much longer the color is very obvious.

Now that you have some details on the wine that are helping you to discover and proclaim where the wine is from and what it is, let’s move to the next important method of analyzing the wine, smell.

In my reading I found that the nose can detect about 180 different aromas verses only 5 for tastes. Most of us are familiar with the common smell of many of the wines we drink. For example, the green apple in viognier, citrus in chardonnays, cherry in pinots, blueberry in syrah, etc. This can really help in dialing in on the wine.

Finally we have taste. Refer to the aromas though the nose and palate may be total opposites for some wines with regards to smell and taste. Is the wine high in acidity or tannins? Is it sweet? What fruits do you taste? Is there spice, leather, vanilla, etc, etc, etc? Is the wine a fruit bomb (New World) that slaps you in the face or are the flavors of the fruit subtle (Old World)? Old world wines do not have the fruit bombs but are very subtle and layered with flavors. Remember that the environment in France is much cooler than California or Australia. Differences can also be found between California and Washington or Oregon though not as pronounced. Looking at whites, acidity can be a good indicator.

It is not easy to do this. It is frustrating at times but you need to treat each challenge as an adventure and learning experience. Following is a list of wines brought by the group:

2011 Chappellet Chenin Blanc – Napa Valley (Eastern Hill)

Aroma: Floral, pineapple, meyer lemon and honeysuckle

Palate: Pineapple, Orange peel, bright and lively mouth feel

2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stepping Stone Winery – Napa Valley

Aroma: Dark Cherry

Palate: Tobacco, stone and dark cherry

2009 Nebiolo D’Alba – Terredavino Italy

Aroma: Light and delicate

Palate: Dark cherry and firm tannins

2010 Kaena Rhone Grenache– Santa Ynez

Aroma: Barnyard

Palate: Red cherry, medium tannins and light minerals on the finish

2008 Allegrini Palazzo Del Torre – Italy

Aroma: Black plum

Palate: Blackberry, black fruits and refined tannins

This testing of our senses, where we are not influenced by the label, allowed us to sharpen our senses. When I was watching the group going through their own individual rituals with each wine, I noticed that everyone was intensely reviewing the wines to try and solve the fishbone. We will do this again. I was impressed by everyone’s involvement.

Thanks again to Valencia Wine Company for hosting our GOTN gatherings. You guys are the greatest and a standard for wine bars within the valley that is difficult to compete with.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Grape of the Night Does Tempranillo

October 14, 2013 by evebushman

Grape of the Night explored a varietal that originated in Spain. In fact, it is known as the native or noble grape of Spain. That grape is Tempranillo. This varietal originated in Spain and was believed to be related to Pinot Noir, however, ampelographic studies have shown this not to be the case. This wine is definitely old world in terms of its origin, dating back 2000 years during Roman times in the Ribera del Duero wine region of Spain. Another region of Spain that grows and produces fantastic wines made from Tempranillo is Rioja. Today we see this wine grown in many regions of Spain, Portugal, US, Australia, Argentina, etc. In Portugal it is called Tinta Roriz and it is blended with other select varietals to produce those lovely Port wines that we all love on those cold winter nights or after a chocolate soufflé.

The name Tempranillo means “little early one” because it ripens early and does well with a short growing season. This varietal adapts also to large diurnal temperature changes allowing it to be very successful in regions such as California for example. One of the problems with getting Tempranillo established in California was that it was planted initially in the Central Valley where it is hot. Tempranillos are not at their best when grown in this type of climate. The results of these first attempts from this region of California was low quality and fit for jug wine blends only. This has changed once this varietal was understood and now Tempranillo has evolved throughout the world as a fine wine.

The reason that Tempranillo is blended with a small amount of other red wines is due to a unique characteristic of the vine and chemistry. Tempranillo vine roots absorb potassium out of the ground readily. The potassium causes the grape chemistry to become more basic rather than maintaining a normal acid level, which is required to brighten up a wine and add crispness. In order to correct for this other selected red wines are blended with the Tempranillo to add the bright crispness required for a good wine.

Tempranillos are very unique in flavors and aromas. On the nose and palate you will get strawberry, plum, herbal, vanilla and tobacco. Many Tempranillos are aged in oak increasing the complexity of the wine. This is the source of the vanilla that is found in many Tempranillo wines.

For this tasting the GOTN brought some very unique examples to review. Here is the list along with inputs from everyone on their findings:

2010 Prima Toro

Aroma: Dark cherry and light tobacco

Taste: Dry, long finish acidic when first opened

Notes: Spain; 90% Tempranillo and 10% Granacha

2010 Volver La Mancha

Aroma: Wet cardboard and eucalyptus

Taste: Fruit forward

Notes: Spain; 100% Tempranillo and 10% Granacha. This wine created a lot of discussion based on what appeared to be a wet cardboard smell. The smell of wet cardboard or newspaper is often the result of 2,4,6-Trichloroanisole (TCA), which is a chemical compound that is a chlorinated derivative of anisole and is termed corked. However, I have found that people mistakenly place this label on a lot of old world wines that present the aromas of barnyard smells. I leave this as food for thought for you to decide on your own.

2009 Calma Rioja

Aroma: Leather, cigar box and dark cherry

Taste: Graphite (minerals) and earthy

Notes: Spain; 90% Tempranillo and 10% Granacha

2008 Pulchella Tempranillo

Aroma: Cherry

Taste: Cherry; opinions were diverse from sour-acidic to balanced

Notes: Paso, California; 100% Tempranillo

2009 Pulchella Tempranillo

Aroma: Cherry, musky, white pepper and bacon

Taste: Cherry, white pepper and vanilla

Notes: Bella Collina Vineyard Paso, California; 100% Tempranillo; 94 points

2009 Valserrano Crianza Rioja

Aroma: Dark cherry, plum and herbaceous

Taste: Cherry, plum and high tannins

Notes: Spain; 90% Tempranillo and 10% Mazuela; 92 points Wine Advocate

What was interesting at GOTN was five of the seven bottles brought were from Spain. The two that were not were from Paso California were made by the same winery but two different vintages and two different grape sources. All of the wines brought were quite unique and different. The tasting notes from the group were very much in line with what has been written in literature for expected tastes and aromatics. As always, I thought that it was a very enjoyable evening and I look forward to our next GOTN.

I want to thank Alexa and the Valencia Wine Company for hosting our event and the fantastic hospitality. Thank you all for coming and I will see you at the next GOTN.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Rusty Sly: The Elegance of Chardonnay

September 16, 2013 by evebushman

Grape of the Night (GOTN) got together to explore the elegance of Chardonnay. This varietal is claimed to be the most popular of both the reds and whites. Chardonnay wines have a huge following by people that want that crisp, fresh,pure quality that this wine delivers. The palate gives way to flavors of pear and apple plus tropical and citrus fruits with a nice balance of acidity yielding a very refreshing yet dry finish. The uniqueness extends further with the addition of oak adding that creamy mouth feel with buttery vanilla and spices. If that is not your cup of tea, you can go for the un-oaked versions that are fermented in stainless steel where a more crisp and lighter mouth feel style is developed. The variations are endless with this classic wine. This does not even take into account further variations due to different terroirs. This grape varietal is extremely hardy and is grown almost everywhere that you find vineyards. It is produced in California, France, Washington state, Chile, Argentina, etc. The GOTN tended to stick with examples from California in the bottles offered for tasting.

Chardonnay styles are also heavily influenced by the vinification process. Some wineries chose to perform malolactic fermentation. This process is like a secondary fermentation after the primary fermentation where alcohol is created. Malolactic fermentation is used in making many red wines but only a few whites with Chardonnay being one of them. In a nutshell, this secondary fermentation converts the highly acidic malic acid, that is extremely tart, and converts it to a lactic acid which is found in products like milk, cheese, butter, etc. Malolactic fermentation also lends to a nutty flavor and body on the palate. This is where the buttery aromatics and taste come from.

Some vintners chose to use malolactic fermentation on half of their wine and blend the two together at the end. Blending increases the complexity of the Chardonnay providing a crisp and refreshing wine that has a solid fruit profile with a slight buttery softness. What an art! So let’s look at the wines that were brought by the GOTN group:

2010 White Oak – Russian River

Aroma – Crisp
Taste – Medium body, baked apples, honeycomb and orange zest at the end

2011 Merimar Estate Don Miguel Vineyard – Russian River

Aroma – Apple and Citrus
Taste – Crisp and Minerals (white granite). Tasted like a Viognier

2012 Tamber Bey Trio Vineyard – Calastoga Region of Napa Valley

Aroma – Apple and banana
Taste – Minerality, acidic and medium crisp

2009 Frostwatch – Bennett Valley Sonoma Coast

Aroma – Crisp
Taste – Creamy, light minerality on the finish, light green apples and citrus

1994 Kalin Cellars Cuvee – Novato, Ca.

Aroma – Not much on the nose but a noticeably deep golden color
Taste – Acidic, nice mouth feel, minerality
Note: This bottle was 19 years old proof that Chardonnays can be aged. I want to thank George and Jennifer Skorka for giving me this bottle from their private collection to share with the group.

2008 Kellar Estate La Cruz Vineyard – Petaluma, Ca.

Aroma – Grapefruit, green apple and light coconut
Taste – Medium body, smooth and low acidity

The key item with Chardonnay wines is balance. As you can see there are many variables in the process that can drastically alter the final product such as oak, malolactic fermentation, alcohol content, fruit ripeness and residual sugars. Many California wines fall out of balance by being over-oaked. By having the proper chemistry for the style that you are making is very important. As you can see, there is no single way to make Chardonnays and each style has its own unique profile. It is unfortunate that GOTN did not taste the French style as it is from a cooler climate with less fruit ripeness (sugars) is once again extremely unique and different…maybe next time.

I would like to thank everyone for their participation at GOTN Chardonnay and I hope to see everyone at our next event. Once again thank you to Valencia Wine Company for supporting our group and tending to our needs. Valencia Wine Company and its staff is definitely a class act. This event was also a farewell to our good friend and employee of Valencia Wine Company, Gino Rios, who has been taking care of all of us for many years. He will be missed and we wish him luck in his new venture.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Rusty Sly Reports on: The Pinot Noirs of Oregon

August 19, 2013 by evebushman

During our last Grape of the Night (GOTN) group’s adventure we sampled the elegant Pinot Noir wines of Oregon. Oregon has been producing wines since before the time of prohibition. The proliferation of wineries in all areas of Oregon has been astounding. The wines from this region are cherished by many that enjoy the complex nature of this unique wine. What makes the pinots from Oregon so unique and different from those of California? One winemaker said, “the difference between ripe fruit and fresh fruit.” Thinking about that statement, I have to agree. Oregon wines generally have lower alcohol content, higher acidity, earthiness and complexity. This begins to parallel what one would expect from a French Burgundy.

Let’s look at the terroir of Oregon and see if there is a reason for the difference between California and Oregon pinots. In comparison to most California producers Oregon has a much cooler growing season than that of California. My guess is that the seasonal weather in Oregon is very much like France. This explains the reason for the statement ripe fruit (California) and fresh fruit (Oregon/France) eluded to in the previous paragraph by a winemaker. What about the earthy profile found in Oregon pinots? Soils in the Willamette Valley consist of rock and a calcareous marine layer deposited millions of years ago when western Oregon was underwater. The key factor here is rocks, and lots of them. This forces the grape vines to struggle for nutrients and water. This type of soil along with the weather are very characteristic of the terroir of Burgundy, France. Vines that are made to struggle produce small grape clusters as well as small berries. This rocky soil and lack of nutrients, such as nitrogen, is the reason that these wines have minerality. The fresh fruit descriptor is a result of struggling vines and cool climate which prevents the development of large ripe berries. If the soil was high in nutrients and water like California, the wines produced would present that ripe fruit that we see in California pinots. One thing to remember is that two grapes that dramatically reflect terroir in aroma and taste are Pinot Noirs for the reds and Rieslings for the whites.

After sampling wines and researching Pinot Noir wines from Oregon I now realize why my wife’s palate does not favor many of the wines produced in Oregon. They are more on the line with French style Burgundies which I enjoy. She is more of a California style pinot drinker. The low alcohol mixed with fruits that are not overpowering but layered in a unique complexity, then add some minerality and I am a happy camper with the pinots of Oregon.

So let’s look at the selection of Oregon pinots that were brought to GOTN.

2011 Row 503 Cellars

Aroma: Cherry and burnt toast
Taste: Dry cherry, tart, very burgundian in style
Note: Soil at this winery is volcanic

2009 Maysara Estate Cuvee from Momtazi Vineyard

Aroma: Light cherry and white pepper
Taste: Red cherry and slight tartness

2009 Sokol Blosser Dundee Hills

Aroma: Earthy
Taste: Pomegranate, soft tannins and a little tart on the finish

2011 King Estate Lorane Valley

Aroma: Earthy, oak and cola
Taste: Cola, dry finish, dried cherries; a very complex wine

2011 Domaine Drouhin Dundee Hills

Aroma: Earthy
Taste: Tobacco on the finish, dry tart cherry and smooth

2008 Bishop Creek Cellars Gaston, Oregon

Aroma: Oak; very soft, almost nonexistent on the nose
Taste: Cherry, little tart and soft on the palate

This tasting was probably one of the most unique and educational for me. Everything that I read in preparation for GOTN Oregon Pinot Noirs fit like a glove. Looking at all of the wines tasted and the characteristics you can see a trend in this varietal from this region. Remember in the first paragraph where I said that a winemaker explained the difference between California and Oregon wines saying, “the difference between ripe fruit and fresh fruit.” We know how fruity the California pinots generally are. But what about Oregon pinots and fresh fruit? If you have ever eaten a grape that is not quite ripe you get that tart taste, the same is true with a cherry. However, in each case you get that firm “fresh fruit” flavor and structure in the fruit. Look at the descriptions of the wines tasted. They were found to be tart, subtle fruits, dry, etc which is very much like French Burgundy. Add in the soil composition with low nutrients and now you have added the minerality that you also detect in French versions of this varietal. This was an outstanding tasting showing the uniqueness of this varietal. I never even mentioned the additional complexity created by the different pinot clones which is estimated to be between 200 to as many as 11,000 for Pinot Noir.

GOTN members, I want to thank all of you for providing such an education on this varietal to me and I hope that it did the same for you.. I want to give my thanks to the Valencia Wine Company (VWC) for all of their support and help to allow us to continue to learn about the vast realm of wines that exist. VWC has always been a place to learn about wines through the proprietor, Guy Lelarge and the well educated staff.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Rusty Sly: The Grape of the Night (GOTN) Group’s Road Trip to Four Brix Winery

April 1, 2013 by evebushman

For a long time I have been asked by the GOTN group to do a road trip for one of our monthly adventures. Recently, Gary Stewart (owner/vintner) of Four Brix Winery, offered us an opportunity to come to their tasting room and sample as well as educate us on the art of winemaking. Gary and his wife Karen are no strangers to GOTN as they attend whenever possible, schedules permitting. The day/night was informal with education intermixed with tasting wines that were recently released by Four Brix.

Gary Stewart

Gary was educated in the best ways possible when it comes to wine making and operating a successful winery. He was mentored in wine making which he reinforced by taking online courses from UC Davis, which has one of the best wine education curriculum in the country. It shows, Four Brix produces really good wine that is the result of trial and error as well as experience over the years. When Gary started out in his garage with another couple they bought inexpensive grapes at about $200/ton, which is very cheap as tons go. However, being new and not knowing they had the idea that the end product was in the process and not the grapes that makes the wine. After some input from successful wineries on wine quality based on grape quality/price he learned a new philosophy, GOOD GRAPES=GOOD WINE. He went back to his friends and said they had to buy better grapes to get better wine and next time spent $1000/ton. The difference was significantly noticeable. Today, he searches out the best grapes available for his wines.

Later in his career, Gary met Ryan Horn from Justin Winery in Paso Robles who became his mentor. In 2007 Gary began importing equipment from France and Portugal. Gary worked with Ryan and together made many trips to Italy and Spain thus continuing his knowledge and skills in the old world wine making processes. It is because of these travels and experiences that led to the name Four Brix. Gary explained that “the winery name Four Brix pays tribute to the four wine regions we have traveled to and experienced the beauty, culture, and manner in which blended wine fits into everyday life: France, Italy, Spain and our home, California.” Brix refers to the amount of sugar in the grape juice.

In talking to Gary about his path to where he is today, one realizes quickly that his passion is to share and watch people enjoy what wine is all about. To me it is not difficult to refer to wine lovers as a cult. To verify this statement go to a gathering or wine bar and see how people review and strive to understand the artistry that the vintner put into the bottle for us to enjoy. We are not talking about people that are drinking for effect but the ones that are dissecting the wine to see it change over time as oxygen infiltrates the glass and the fruits and spices that come to one’s nose via the aromatics. This is then followed by the taste on the palate where the flavors explode (California wines) or lay subtle in layers of complexity (French and Italian wines). This is how I see Gary’s view and passion for wines.

What is very interesting is that ALL of their wines to date are blends, however, Gary told me that there will be some single varietals available for club members in the future. I had an opportunity to barrel sample their Tempranillo, Sangiovesse and Petite Sirah. I asked Gary if he could bottle me a case of the Tempranillo and I would take it home, unfortunately for me I will have to wait just like everyone else. It was spectacular. The Sangiovese was right there with the Tempranillo. The Petite Sirah is being its normal self and still needs time. I will hopefully get a chance to revisit it in the future. Listed below is the list of wines that we tasted during our visit:

2011 Smitten – Viognier from Camp 4 Vineyard in Santa Ynez. Beautiful Green apples and grass that you expect from this style. Crisp and exciting.
Grenache Blanc – Pulled from a barrel. The barrels used were purchased from Silver Oak Winery and are American. These barrels imparted a buttery and creamy profile to the wine. This was very evident in this wine. Very good.
2009 Temptress – 44% Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Grenache and Graciano.
2010 Rhondezvous – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Counoise.
2010 Scosso – 64% Sangiovesse and 26% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. This wine was given 89 points by Wine Spectator. Excellent wine.
2010 Zeductive – 89% Zinfandel and 11% Petite Sirah

The day was interesting with group questions ranging from general to technical. I was extremely happy by some of the technical questions about various strains of yeast as well as their alcohol tolerance. I never expected these types of questions from the group. Maybe I am rubbing off on them as they are really looking at the details of what goes into producing fine wines and how much difficulty there is to being consistent and repeatable.

I also want to add a quick note about another Ventura Trail Winery that Gary recommended that I visit. It is called Plan B and has only been open since October 2012. It is owned by Marlow and Janis Barger. They had five wines open for tasting, a 2010 Mourvedre, 2010 Grenache, 2010 GSM, 2010 Shiraz and a 2010 Syrah. My two favorites were the Mourvedre and the Grenache. Typically you see these wines in blends, if not blended they can be touch and go if they are enjoyable as a single varietal. These two wines from Plan B were light and very good. Though lacking in a long finish, they made up for in a nice clean enjoyable sipping wine. The Mourvedre was my favorite as well as Tracy’s, her brother Mitch and his new wife Jan. It was especially fun for Mitch and Jan as Plan B was their first wine tasting ever.

To sum up the experience, everyone needs to try the wineries on the Ventura Wine Trail. It is quite evident that they are on track to becoming recognized wineries. Four Brix has already done this by gaining recognition from Wine Spectator, 89 points for their 2010 Scosso. They also have a large group of dedicated followers. I hope that this article entices you to try these wineries, they are definitely worth the trip. They also make you feel like a family member and good friend as soon as you walk in. I know Gary has always made me feel that way and he is all about making and educating people on wines in hopes that they find and share his passion. Four Brix is about blends at the moment, but they live up to their motto, “Not just another brix in the wall.” They want to explore and push the limits of wine making and production through creative blending practices. Visit them, you will not be disappointed and tell them Rusty sent you.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Break Out the Bubbly with Rusty Sly’s Grape of the Night (GOTN) Group

March 4, 2013 by evebushman

Here is a wine that says romance or special occasion. We do not see people at wine parties lining up bottles of Champagne for all to savor throughout an evening at parties. However, it is quite often served at the beginning of a dinner party along with delicate appetizers to enhance everyone’s palate and prepare everyone for an evening. So what makes this wine so unique?

Champagne is a wine produced in the Champagne region of France. Now we get into the unique ownership of the name “Champagne”. I was asked by many GOTN folks the details about the wines that they needed to bring to GOTN. Were they only supposed to be from Champagne, France or could they be sparkling wines from California, Italy, etc. It is true that only sparkling wines made in Champagne, France can label their bottles as such. But there is one exception to this rule. The United States can use the title “Champagne” if they were using it prior to 2006 and they include the actual origin of the wine on the label. All other wines of this type must be labeled as sparkling wines. Sparkling wines from other European countries are sold under names such as:

Prosecco (Italy)
Cava (Spain)
Sekt (Germany and Austria)
Spumante or Asti Spumante (Italy)

There are 3 grape varietals used in Champagne. They are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Champagne comes in various colors based on exposure time of the wine to the skins of the grapes.

So what makes Champagne so unique? How do they create such fine bubbles that Champagne is known for? The questions go on and on about this wine. The production of fine bubbles is the results of 2ndary fermentation which occurs in the bottle. This process can be seen in many beers that are bottle carbonated or conditioned such as Belgian ales. The result of this process is very fine bubbles whether it is a beer or Champagne. The process involves bottling the wine followed by the addition of a few grains of yeast such as Saccharomyces cerevisiae and a small amount of sugar to the bottle. This process is referred to as methode traditionnelle or traditional method.

Once the yeast finish consuming the sugar they die and settle to the bottom of the bottle. It would not be very elegant if you poured the Champagne and had yeast floating in your glass. This would definitely change the mood of the evening. With beer there is a simple cure to keep the yeast out of the glass. I generally let my Belgian ales sit for about 15-20 minutes followed by carefully pouring the beer into a glass. Watching the level of the beer, I stop just before the end leaving a little of the beer with the yeast in the bottom of the bottle.

Champagne remedies this problem by removing the dead yeast through a process known as degorgement. Disgorgement involves shaking the bottle and placing them neck down allowing the yeast to settle into it. The neck is then placed into a cold bath at -25 degrees Celsius, freezing the liquid in the neck trapping the yeast in a frozen lump. The cap is then removed and the pressure within the bottles forces the frozen lump from the bottle. The wine lost during this process is then replaced along with sugar if required. The amount of sugar added adjusts the sweetness of the wine depending on the type of Champagne being produced. This addition of sugar is known as dosage. Below are what one can expect to see on the label of a Champagne bottle and what it means.

Brut – Is a fairly dry Champagne, Brut may contain up to 12 grams of sugar per liter.
Extra Dry, Extra Sec, Extra Seco – Wines that bear this label contain between 12 and 17 grams of sugar per liter.
Dry, Sec, Seco – Although it is labeled as “dry,” Seco is considerably sweeter than Brut and may contain between 17 and 32 grams of sugar per liter.
Demi-Sec, Demi-Seco – Is the sweeter end of Champagne, Demi-Sec contains between 32 to 50 grams of sugar per liter.
Doux, Sweet, Dulce – The sweetest of Champagnes, bottles labeled with any of these three names contain 50 or more grams of sugar per liter.

Now that we have an understanding of the complexity of this elegant wine, let’s review the samples brought by the group at GOTN.

2004 Pommery (France)

Aroma – White flower, apricot and lemon zest

Taste – Well balanced and bread finish

Domaine Rolet (France)

Aroma – Grapefruit and apricot

Taste – Crisp and yeasty

Vin de Savoie Jean Vullian & Fils (Switzerland/France)

Aroma – Apricot and Vanilla

Taste – Mild, less bubbles and not as yeasty

Veuve du Vernay (France)

Aroma – Apricot

Taste – Vanilla, mild bready and a little sweetness at the end

Vincent Careme Vouvray (France)

100% Chenin Blanc

Aroma – green apple, crisp and fresh

Taste – Green apples, long finish and medium bubbles.

Mumm Napa Cuvee (Napa Valley)

3% Muscat/ Pinot Noir/ and chardonnay

Aroma – Apricot

Taste – Little sweet, Short finish and light bubbles

Moet Chandon Imperial Nectar (France)

Aroma – Apricot

Taste – Apricot, vanilla, sweet and bready

Fantastic line-up of this unique style of wine known as Champagne was provided by all attendees. Every bottle that was opened had such interesting characters that the applications to food and events are limitless. Serve the Brut styles for that evening kickoff or serve the sweeter styles with a desert – as our resident spoiler Tracy Sly did by providing the group with apricot meringue bars to go with her favorite Moet Chandon Nectar. The match of the apricot profile in the Champagne further enhanced the apricot found in the dessert she brought. So next time you have a party or special moment, don’t forget to pick up a bottle of Champagne or Sparkling wine. It will set the mood for the evening

Thanks again for everyone’s participation. And special thanks to Geno for his fantastic service as well as to Guy Lelarge for providing such a great place as Valencia Wine Company to hold our GOTN meetings.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly