Perlises Pick: MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. MASTER CLASS

July 8, 2017 by Michael Perlis

Wine education is always a good thing, and when you have the opportunity to attend a class led by Tim Gaiser, renowned Master Sommelier and wine educator – even better. With only somewhat over 200 people in the world having obtained this designation, Tim’s vast wine knowledge and entertaining speaking style always make his presentations must-attends.

Master Sommelier Tim Gaiser, Food and Beverage Magazine

Taking classes outside of my comfort zone is also rewarding. My focus and small amount of expertise is regarding certain areas of California wine. I’ve often felt that should I not have this as my area of interest that I’d like to expand my knowledge of Italian wines. Whenever I am exposed to wines from Italy, I find the flavors right up my alley – but there is an extraordinary amount to learn, both in terms of history and grape varieties.

Fortunately, Tim Gaiser’s favorite wine region apparently is Italy, so I was in the right place.

In this case, Karen and I had the opportunity to attend a MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. MASTER CLASS at Mr. C’s in Beverly Hills, put on by IEEM (International Event & Exhibition Management), led by Mr. Gaiser with wine samples and information provided by representatives of wineries of the region.

From the seminar brochure:

Moscato d’Asti is one of the most renowned and highly regarded Italian sweet wines, produced in the Piedmont region. Characterized by exceptionally high quality and surprisingly simple production methods, Moscato d’Asti is a very natural agricultural product. It retains the intense, musky aroma of the grapes from which it is made, Moscato Bianco. A sip brings to the palate special notes that remind one of wisteria, lime, peach and apricot, along with hints of sage, lemon and orange blossoms. The low alcohol content of Moscato d’Asti (about 5% by volume) makes it ideal for everyone, and particularly appropriate for holiday celebrations, birthdays and weddings.

If Moscato d’Asti is an extraordinary wine, part of the credit goes to the Consortium for the Promotion of Asti, an institution which has protected and promoted both this wine and Asti Spumante all over the world since 1932. The Consortium sponsors research through specific scientific studies and through the application of technological innovations to improve the production process. In addition, it conducts quality controls along the entire production chain and ensures that the Consortium’s seal, which depicts the patron saint of Asti, Saint Secundus on horseback, is not improperly used.

Wines we tasted, all from the 2016 vintage…

Winery: MICHELE CHIARLO

Name of wine: NIVOLE

Vineyard location: Canelli (Piedmont)

Winery: SARACCO

Name of wine: MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.P.

Vineyard location: In the village of Castiglione Tinella.

Winery: COPPO

Name of wine: MONCALVINA

Vineyard location: Canelli (Piedmont)

Winery: MARENCO VINI

Name of wine: SCRAPONA

Vineyard location: Strevi.

Winery: VIGNAIOLI DI SANTO STEFANO – CERETTO

Name of wine: MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G.

Vineyard location: Santo Stefano Belbo, Canelli, Calosso.

Winery: CAUDRINA

Name of wine: LA CAUDRINA

Vineyard location: Castiglione Tinella.

(I apologize for any typographical errors.)

Moscato Bianco is considered the “original muscat” with seven other muscats that descended from this grape.

The vineyard are on steep hillsides, so hand harvesting is necessary. These dry-farmed vineyards are spread over 24,000 acres – this area is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The harvested grapes are pressed and the juice is typically stored in stainless steel. The fermentation, and the bubbles, are natural processes. The juice can be kept cold with no fermentation until the need a new batch arrives, so there may be multiple fermentations during a year.

All the wines were tasty. To me, the differences between them were very slight, perhaps due to my Zin-jaded palate. Great notes of stone fruits and citrus, along with floral aromatics, were present. Low alcohol [5% or so] and a little sweetness make these wines great for dessert, an aperitif or even an afternoon quaff. They have a creamy quality when young, but as they age over a few years develop more mineral characteristics. Prices are really reasonable — $15 to $25 or so, so definitely worth buying a few to experiment with.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Canadian Cider Takes Top Prize At Dan Berger International Cider Awards

May 22, 2017 by evebushman

Nearly 200 Ciders from across the globe were judged at the second annual Dan Berger International Cider Competition with the “Bittersweet” from Sea Cider Ciderhouse winning the Sweepstakes Award

(Santa Rosa, California) Bittersweet from Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse in British Columbia took the Sweepstakes Award for best cider at the Second Annual Dan Berger International Cider Competition (DBICC). The traditional English style cider is produced from apples grown in the Sea Cider’s own orchards. The Sea Cider Bittersweet beat out nearly 200 other ciders entered into the competition held in Sonoma County, California on May 5th.

The DBICC also awarded Best of Class medals in the following categories:

Common Cider Sweet
BROOKLYN CIDER HOUSE KINDA SWEET

Traditional Cider Dry
EVES CIDERY 2015 DARLING CREEK

Spanish Style Cider
BEREZIATUA GOURMET EDITION

Herbed/Hopped/Spiced Cider
MARCH FIRST BREWING DRY HOPPED CIDER

Fruit Cider
FOXCRAFT HARD CIDER BLOOD ORANGE

Pear Cider
FOX CRAFT HARD CIDER PEAR

Dessert/Iced/Pommeau
2 TOWNS CIDEROUSE 2014 POMMEAU

The Sweepstakes Award Sea Cider Bittersweet is made from a selection of traditional bittersweet cider apples including Dabinett and Yarlington Mills. Off dry and rich in tannin, the Sea Cider Bittersweet impressed the judges with its rich yet balanced style and a complexity that results from use of well-cultivated traditional cider apples.
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Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse is located in Saanichton, British Columbia.

We were thrilled by the diversity of styles of cider we saw at the competition this second year, said Tom Wark, director of the DBICC. No doubt this had much to do with the fact that we had entries from 20 different states and four different countries, which is a testament to the growing popularity of cider in the American marketplace.

The DBICC strives to raise the visibility of the best ciders sold in the American marketplace. Founded by Dan Berger, the Dean of American wine competitions and directed by Tom Wark, publisher of The Cider Journal, the DBICC accepted entries in 12 categories that were judged by cider and orchard professionals.

All the medal winners can be viewed at http://www.dbiwc.com/results/cider/_2017_Resultslist.php

Vintage Eve Circa Feb 2013: Mosel Riesling MASTER Class

March 7, 2017 by evebushman

The Invitation
A very special and rare lecture and tasting with Raimund Prüm, owner and winemaker at the SA PRUM estate in Germany’s Mosel Valley. SA PRUM ranks among the region’s top producers of high quality Riesling.

Come join us to learn about the history, geography, style and characteristics of Mosel Riesling. We will taste a special selection of classic wines during the class and a different selection at the lunch/tasting to follow.

Raimund Prüm, owner and winemaker of S.A. Prum

Ian Blackburn, our host from www.LearnAboutWine.com, introduced Raimund Prüm by stating that Prüm’s Rieslings were not “sweet wines” in fact when Blackburn had visited “the Mosel” he found that white asparagus was in season and was one of many foods that he was surprised that paired so well with Prüm’s wines.

“Forget everything,” began Prüm, “that you ever learned about Rieslings. Think of this as an outstanding wine grape – and we are going to take you by the hand and down to our cellar to show you what is going on there.”

Prüm’s family dates back to 1156 in the Mosel Valley, 90 minutes from Frankfurt, and Raimund Prüm made his first vintage on Christmas Eve in 1970 – an Eiswein (Ice Wine). By 1971, after his father passed away, Prüm found himself making wine full time. Forty years later Prüm has produced over a million bottles of wine from his 28,000 acres.

Prüm, with the help of a slide show, explained the terroir of the Mosel: Steep hillsides – the highest elevations in all of Germany at 900 feet – and the grey and red slate that can be found layered in the mineral-rich soil.

A notable Sundial appeared on one of the slides, the first one was circa 1842, which marked where the best Rieslings, his Rieslings, were grown. Now that sundial has been duplicated in other vineyards, denoting them as the finest.

The Tasting:
1. Wehlener Sonnenuhr Erste Lage* “Old Vines Grosse Gewachs Dry Riesling 2004

The palest of the line up with lemon, green apple, citrus, very smooth and balanced. The term “Erst Lage” on a label is their version of a “Grand Cru”.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Erste Lage “Old Vines Grosse Gewachs Dry Riesling 2006

Honeysuckle, jasmine, sharper lemony taste, grass, slightly acidic, long finish.

Graacher Dompropst Grosse Gewachs Riesling 2007

Honeyed-grapefruit, white pepper, dried apricot, pear, a tingling finish and not what I considered sweet. An early favorite for me.

Urziger Wurzgarten Kabinett Riesling 2009

Green hay, a trail mix filled with flavorful dried fruit, tangerine, round and coating on the tongue.

Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese Riesling 2010

Vanilla, peach, like a 50-50 ice cream bar: orange sherbet wrapped around creamy vanilla ice cream, another interesting favorite.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Riesling 2009

Candied ginger, pineapple, ripe persimmon and balanced with some spice on the back palate.

Graacher Himmelreich Eiswein 2004

Spice, dried apple slices, golden raisin, tangy edge.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr TBA 2005 *extremely limited and rare

Deep burnt orange in color, and from inches away I could smell orange rind and spice rack, getting closer I detected a silkiness, honey and those golden raisins again.

Conclusion

Balanced. It was the one word that kept coming up as I sniffed, swirled and sampled the Rieslings. And, apparently, it was on Prüm’s tongue as well.

He mentioned all kinds of pairings from cheeses, salads, seafood, pork dishes, filet mignon to Thai food. “These are food friendly wines. Stop thinking red wine and red meat.” In conclusion Prüm said, “Someone once commented to me that my wines have too much balance. Is there such a thing?” No, thank Bacchus, there is not.

About SA PRUM
Family-owned S.A. Prüm, founded in 1911 by Sebastian Alois Prüm, has been in the hands of Raimund Prüm, head winemaker and Sebastian’s grandson, since 1971. Under Raimund’s leadership the property has earned a reputation as one of the most successful wineries in Germany’s celebrated Mosel wine region.

The Prüm family has a rich and ancient history in the mid-Mosel. Here they have owned vineyards in the towns of Bernkastel, Graach, Wehlen and Zeltingen since 1156. Today, the estate comprises 40 acres of vineyards planted principally with Riesling. Over 15 acres of S.A. Prüm’s holdings are located within the famed Wehlener Sonnenuhr (“sundial of Wehlen”) domain.

Named for the historic sundial painted on an outcrop of slate by a Prüm ancestor back in 1842, the incredibly steep Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard is a renowned source of what is arguably Germany’s finest Riesling. Here vines average 80 years and older and benefit from plentiful sunshine – a critical factor in the world’s northernmost wine-producing country. The soil is comprised of layers of finely decomposed, mineral-rich blue slate.

Underneath, deep-lying aquifers provide the vines with adequate water during dry periods.

S.A.Prüm is a founding member of the Association of German Premium Wineries (VDP), a consortium of Germany’s top producers. Raimund Prüm employs organic fertilization, hand-picking and strict yield control to ensure the utmost quality. Day-to-day operations at S.A. Prüm are a family effort. Daughter Saskia Andrea (another S.A. Prüm) is integrally involved and after working at top wineries around the world, is poised to take over the reins from her father.

Jennifer, Raimund’s second daughter, is involved in the administrative side of the business.

www.sapruem.com or www.PalmBay.com

Vintage Eve Circa Jan 2013: Chocolate Tasting Separates the Dark from Light, the Leather from the Tea, the Raspberry from the Black Currant

February 14, 2017 by evebushman

In keeping to my theory that those who spend time thinking about the aromas and flavors in their wine notice more about what is on their dinner plate, and, in taking it a step further, are blissfully aware of the trees and sky during a drive…to a wine bar or favorite restaurant.

So, it thrilled me when Wine Spectator magazine ran the story, “How to Taste Chocolate”, and supplied the handy Tasting Sheet to host a tasting, both written by Owen Dugan.

(For the article: You must login as a member but you can get the tasting sheet in a PDF. Scroll down until you see the chocolate header: www.winespectator.com/123112)

I read the one-page article with great interest as I had a special dinner coming up, my guests were chocolate fans, and this would save the pesky, “What to make for dessert” dilemma.

I learned from Dugan that I would need a variety of manufacturers, I would have to place the chocolate facedown (as name recognition – just like when tasting wine – creates a bias), glossy is more refined than dull, and we would need to slowly move the chocolate around in our mouths to detect the primary flavors.

For my tasting I cut off the section of the cardboard wrapper, which listed the cocoa percentage, and taped each underneath the corresponding serving plate. All could see that we were going dark to light, but there were some surprises (ingredients) along the way.

Dugan suggested going from light to dark, but as I wanted my guests to taste the gradual difference, from bitter to sweet, I did it opposite. Everyone enjoyed the chocolate more and more as it progressively grew less bitter as we worked our way to less cocoa and more milk.

Below is a collective of what we found during our blind tasting (Note: I used Appearance over Dugan’s “Look” and “Bite”, Flavor over “Savor.”)

Bar #1 – Appearance/First Bite: Matte, dark, clean, crisp, smooth and dry.

Flavor: Earthy, orange, coffee, leather, mushroom, smoke, tea with a short, bitter finish.

Comment: “A lot like a woman on a Sunday morning: cold and bitter!”

Bar #2 – Appearance/First Bite: More matte than glossy, dark, clean, crisp, smooth and dry.

Flavor: Earthy, leather, tea, smoke, nuts, coffee with a short to medium, bitter finish.

Comment: “The tea flavor reminds me of an Earl Gray.”

Bar #3 – Appearance/First Bite: Medium matte/gloss, medium dark and mottled, with a medium dull, grainy first impression.

Flavor: Stewed fruit, floral, savory spice, molasses, cinnamon, sweet herbs, nuts, vanilla and coffee, medium length.

Bar #4 – Appearance/First Bite: Glossy, dark, clean with a bite that was crisp, smooth and melty.

Flavor: Floral, plum, earthy, tea, molasses, orange, caramel, fruity and vanilla leading to a longer, sweeter finish.

Comment: “The best yet” and “Hot cocoa.”

Bar #5 – Appearance/First Bite: Medium matte/gloss, medium color, mottled with a crisp, smooth and grainy first taste.

Flavor: Floral, fruity, flowers, stewed fruit, pineapple, plum, citrus, raspberry, red berries, vanilla, savory spice and milk leading to a long sweet finish.

Comment: “My fave.”

Bar #6 – Appearance/First Bite: matte, light, clean, dull, smooth and melty.

Flavor: Earthy, tea, molasses, fruity, caramel, vanilla, nuts, coffee and very milky.

What was revealed

Bar #1 was Lindt Excellence, 90% Cocoa

Bar #2 was Godiva Santo Domingo, 85% Cacao*

Bar #3 was Godiva Dark Chocolate Almond, 72% Cacao

Bar #4 was Perugina Luisa, 51% Cacao

Bar #5 was Lindt Excellence, Black Currant Dark, 49% Cacao

Bar #6 was Ghirardelli Gourmet Milk, 32% Cacao

*Cacao and Cocoa are the same thing.

Conclusion

Can you say fun? Something new? Light dessert? Inexpensive? Or all four? Besides all that, the big thing we learned was that the black currant in Bar #5, was a surprise over the others. Not due to the sudden fruit, but to how we described it. Much like describing wine made from grapes, right?

And, as predicted, halfway through, at bar #3, I had more fans of the dark. My conclusion was that, just like in a wine tasting, appreciation grows as you taste and learn.

New Programs and Innovations to Debut at Vinexpo 2015 in Bordeaux

January 26, 2015 by evebushman

NEW YORK –Vinexpo 2015, the world’s leading show for wine and spirits professionals, will roll out a number of firsts in Bordeaux during its next showcase (June 14-18). Chief among these is the designation of the U.S. as Vinexpo’s first-ever Country of Honor, putting American wineries front-and-center with an anticipated 50,000 professional visitors. In another major shift, gastronomy will take the spotlight for the first time, with more dining options and the participation of prestigious chefs.

Themed “Taste the Unexpected,” Vinexpo 2015 anticipates as many as 2,400 exhibitors from 44 wine-producing countries for a top-flight program of talks and tastings. Other show firsts include:

· A complete redesign that orients all exhibition spaces to face the lake. At the center of the show, Les Terrasses will bring together the major wine and spirits brands in expansive indoor-outdoor exhibition spaces that open into Hall 1 on one side and to the lake on the other.

· Themed spaces providing new inspiration to visitors. Among these will be a digital area, logistics advice area, wellness center, and three free tasting areas – two exploring the emerging trends for rosé and sparkling wines, and a third revisiting sweet wines.

· An innovative, personalized appointment booking service to ensure productive, targeted meetings during the exhibition. Requests will be entered into a database that will match exhibitors and visitors based on their individual needs, whether it’s a Chilean exhibitor seeking a Singaporean importer or a Belgian buyer looking for an Italian wine.

· A new workshop area where chefs and their sommeliers will demonstrate food and wine pairings.

· The Bordeaux launch of the Spiritual Bar, which made its debut in Hong Kong this year at Vinexpo Asia-Pacific. Reflecting the rise in Vinexpo participation from the spirits industry, which now represents 15 to 20 percent of the show’s exhibitors, the Spiritual Bar will feature spirits from around the world and demonstrations by leading mixologists.

· A larger catering area by the lake, ranging from a gourmet restaurant to food trucks. American cuisine will be among those represented in recognition of the Country of Honor designation. Exhibitors will be able to bring their own wine for lunch without corkage fees.

· A new exhibition category dedicated to drinks accessories.

· New tram service from the exhibition hall to Bordeaux’s town center, providing direct access, in just 15 minutes, to the city’s wealth of historic, cultural and gastronomic attractions.

· Fun and informal business networking parties held each evening after 10 p.m. Called The Blend, all four events will take place at Hangar 14 on the banks of the Garonne in Bordeaux itself, and will be open to all exhibition participants.

Vinexpo gathers the wine and spirits industry’s great innovators biennially in Bordeaux at the Parc des Expositions, just minutes from the historic town center and France’s most storied wine country. In 2013, Vinexpo drew 48,000 professional visitors, 2,400 exhibitors representing 44 wine-producing countries, and 1,250 journalists from around the world.

About Vinexpo
Founded in 1981, Vinexpo has evolved into the world’s leading show for wine and spirits professionals and a partner for the wine and spirits industry worldwide. Vinexpo is held in Bordeaux in odd-numbered years; since 2006, Vinexpo Asia-Pacific has taken place in Hong Kong in even-numbered years and has become the key exhibition of the industry in Asia. Before each exhibition, Vinexpo commissions studies on industry-specific issues and presents the findings in conferences around the world. Since 1999, it has produced a world market study with a five-year outlook, as well as a variety of trend reports. For more information, visit www.vinexpo.com.

Eve’s Wine Descriptors Tested Against Local Winemaker

April 4, 2014 by evebushman

We played a game the other day in the Pulchella Tasting Room. Winemaker Steve Lemley removed his tasting notes and we spent nearly two hours talking winemaking practices, the effects of the past 2010 and 2011 cold Paso years and that these wines we were to taste were from the “2012 No Excuses” vintage – Steve dubbed the new releases this way because after five years Steve, along with co-owner and co-winemaker Nate Hasper, had the warmer weather they wanted, grown personal relationships with the growers and were enjoying the “fruits” of their long-term contracts with farms.

2012 THE “sixteen” blend: Paso Robles
Table wine consisting of 16 percent equal parts of every red wine they produce. 3-Syrahs, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon. 15.2% alcohol.

Aroma: Crushed cherries, Jordan almonds, vanilla, unmasked oak and menthol cigarette.

Taste: Cherry, dark plums on the back palate, peppermint, Grenache stands out, tingly finish.

2012 “ILLUSIONIST” GRENACHE: Paso Robles
100% La Vista Vineyard (Westside). 91 percent Grenache / 9 percent Syrah. 16% alcohol.

Aroma: Hello chocolate! Followed by bursting raspberry, wild flowers, shelled almonds, Almond Joy candy bar.

Taste: Raspberry chocolate mousse with a kick, a drying palate, soft tannings, will change your mind about Grenache if you are not a fan.

2012 “highs & lows” blend: Paso Robles
100% La Vista Vineyard (Westside). 33 percent Grenache / 67 percent Syrah. 15.9% alcohol.

Aroma: Sweet black cherry, local plum jam, campfire smoke, wet earth.

Taste: Palate drying, intense, medium toast oak barrels would be my guess, chewy, condensed fruit.

2012 “Relentless” Syrah: Paso Robles
100% Rancho De Volidores Vineyard (Westside) Syrah. 16.2% alcohol.

Aroma: Red to blue concentrated fruits, smoky, leather, sticky cotton candy – if you could make a fresh cut bouquet with big plump grapes it would smell like this wine.

Taste: Tangy, tannic, smoke, berries, they’re all there. I would lay this one down or serve with food if I wanted it now.

2012 “distinguished” Cabernet Sauvignon: Paso Robles
100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Halter Ranch Vineyard. 15.2% alcohol.

Aroma: Juicy blackberry, chocolate-covered marshmallows, felled tree, cool linen sheets, black currant and cloves.

Taste: Red cherry, youthful, zingy mouthfeel. Reminded me of a Chianti and I would serve with pasta in a marinara sauce.

wine club members ONLY 2012 “GRIFTER 25” reserve PETITE SIRAH: Paso Robles
Gorgio Vineyard. 100% Petite Sirah. 16.3% alcohol.

Aroma: Milk chocolate shavings, sugar plums, smooth and velvety.

Taste: The fruit, chocolate and smoke are all in perfect union. Steve’s baby, only one barrel, single vineyard, will release to members in their fall shipments after a little more time in bottle. This was my favorite of the tasting.

wine club members ONLY 2012 “AWAKENING” reserve blend: Paso Robles
66 percent La Vista Vineyard Syrah and 33 percent Gorgio vineyard Petite Sirah. 16.3% alcohol.

Aroma: Resounding black fruit, cream, tobacco and wild game.

Taste: Tangy dark fruits, lots of tannins, chewy and firm. Want to have this one with salami and prosciutto.

(Joining us on our search for descriptors was Steve’s wife Megan.)

Zinfandel Questions and Answers, Part 3

March 22, 2014 by evebushman

In this final installment of my series of articles about alcohol levels in Zinfandel, we hear from two gentlemen who are on the forefront of preserving some of California great old vineyards.

Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock Wine Co. (www.bedrockwineco.com) grew up with Zinfandel – literally. His father is Joel Peterson, founder of Ravenswood Winery and, according to the Bedrock website, Morgan started making wine at the age of five! Now he makes outstanding Zinfandels, Syrahs and other wines under his own Bedrock label. I posed my question to Morgan and this is what he had to say:

“Given the uneven cluster morphology of Zinfandel, with a tendency to ripen unevenly, there is a tendency for Zinfandel to be higher in alcohol than other varieties out there. That said, there are a couple factors influencing wine balance.

1) There is a HUGE difference in flavor profile between picking at 24.5 brix and soaking to 26 and getting 15%-15.5% alcohol and picking at 29, soaking to 33, and watering back to 26 to get the same level of alcohol. Unfortunately the latter practice is, by far, the most common practice. At Bedrock we tend to be very early pickers by industry standards, sometimes 2-3 weeks before other wineries, and we regularly flirt with 15% alcohol.

2) Site, vine age, and vineyard practice is incredibly important. Old vines that are dry-farmed or minimally irrigated tend to have earlier flavor development, which allows me to pick at lower sugar levels. This is not to say that others don’t pick late in the same vineyards as SOP. Vigorous vines, heavily irrigated vines, over-cropped vines all delay flavor development. In this situation the winemaker’s hand is forced and usually one must pick later to get the needed flavor development while praying the canopy holds up. That said, and it might be extreme, but if you have to pick at high brix to get flavor development you are probably growing the wrong variety, have an unsuitable site, or need to rethink farming practices.

3) I certainly think you can find balance in wines at higher alcohol. Turley, Biale, and Carlisle all play this out. However, it is a tricky tight-rope to walk.”

Mike Officer, Owner/Winemaker

Mike Officer of Carlisle Winery (www.carlislewinery.com) has been making some of the best Zinfandels in California since the winery’s inaugural 1998 vintage. Long a proponent of saving the great old vine plantings, his single-vineyard bottlings are almost impossible to find unless you are on his mailing list. Mike’s response to my question:

“As a variety, Zinfandel seems to have a naturally higher sweet spot in terms of alcohol than many other varieties, likely due to Zinfandel’s differential ripening. Do some wines exceed that sweet spot? Sure, but that sin is not unique to Zinfandel. Frankly, I think way too much attention is given to alcohol levels. If pH and TA were required on the label instead of alcohol, I suspect we’d all be talking about acidity. In the end, it’s about balance, about alcohol, acidity, and fruit coming together to compose a wine that is harmonious and seamless. That may mean 15% alcohol. It may mean 12% alcohol. Alcohol alone is not necessarily an indicator of balance. I’ve had hot, unbalanced low-alcohol wines and I’ve had hot, unbalanced high alcohol wines. And making the whole conversation even more complex is the fact that we all taste differently. One person’s idea of balance may be another person’s bitter and harsh or thin and acrid. There are many truths in wine. Consumers need to taste and explore to determine what their truth is.”

As I expected, the ultimate answer is: It’s complicated. Zinfandel in particular is made in a lot of different styles and a lot of factors go into the ultimate end product. If you take away one thing from this series of articles, let me paraphrase Mike’s suggestion: The best solution is for the wine enthusiast to taste as many wines as possible to determine what best suits his or her palate. Thank you to everyone who helped me with this and thanks as well to the wineries that supplied photos.

###

Perlis Picks: Historic Vineyard Society’s Annual Vineyard Tour and Dinner

In today’s article, the input received was from Morgan-Twain Peterson of Bedrock Wine Co. and Mike Carlisle of Carlisle Winery & Vineyards.

Both Morgan and Mike have been key players in saving many of the old vineyards in California. As members of the Project Team of the Historic Vineyard Society, they focus on “educating the wine-drinking public on the very special nature of this precious and depleting state, national and global resource” as wells a compiling and maintaining “a comprehensive, fact-based and consistent directory of California’s Heritage Vineyards.” [Quotes are from the HVS website.]

Before the Historic Vineyard Society came into being, too many of California’s old vineyards were lost to development, or replanted to more profitable varietals. The work they are doing is very important, as well as being near and dear to my heart.

I just received this information from the HVS:

The Historic Vineyard Society is pleased to announce that its fourth Annual Vineyard Tour and Dinner will be held on Saturday, May 10 at the Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville, California.

Vineyards to be toured include:

· To Kalon “I Block” (planted in the 1950s)

· Hayne (planted in the 1900s)

· Library (planted in the 1930s)

· Old Kraft (planted in the (1890s)

Following the vineyard tour, a dinner will be held at the Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville. For more information and to purchase tickets visit the Historic Vineyard Society website at www.historicvineyardsociety.org.

The Historic Vineyard Society is a 501c3 non-profit dedicated to the preservation of California’s oldest vineyards.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. (2013 Update: Eve and Michael announced Eve Wine 101 Consulting. Info is here: http://evewine101.com/press-releases/) Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com.

Grape of the Night: The Uniqueness of Riesling Wines

March 17, 2014 by evebushman

Riesling Wines are very interesting and allure many different types of wine drinkers. It has been my finding that people that are not really serious wine drinkers tend to go for the sweeter versions of this style of wine but it goes much deeper than satisfying non wine drinkers. There are many different styles of Riesling wines. Riesling is a noble grape that originated in the Rhine region of Germany where it still dominates. This varietal of wine shows definite characteristics dependant on the terroir that it comes from. Cool climates, such as Germany, have high acidity and exhibit apple type flavors. Warmer climates, like Australia, tend to display a lime characteristic. The characteristics of this German origin wine is that it has a very floral bouquet with flavors of peach, honey and apricot on the palate. Let’s throw in a little shocker, “Not all Rieslings are sweet”. Rieslings from Alsace tend to be drier than other areas. Rieslings are actually broken up into five different styles based heavily on sweetness; from driest to sweetest they are Kabinett, Spaltlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese.

One amazing fact that I discovered is that good Rieslings, due to the high acidity and sugar content, can be cellared forever. By that I mean 50-100 years in some fine Rieslings. This just blows me away. We are always looking at body, acids and appropriate chemistry to determine the cellar life expectancy of our red wines yet a Riesling, with its normal high acid and sugar, will age for many years. Aged Rieslings however do take on definite characteristics of petrol and honey notes. Riesling is among the top three choices by consumers for white varietals next to Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Another item that is interesting is that Rieslings are never oaked.

Though we had a very small turnout at our monthly Grape of the Night (GOTN) meeting, due to the holiday season, we had some fine examples from three different terroirs.
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2012 Bernan Griffin – Columbia Washington

· Aroma: Green apples

· Taste: Refreshing with light acidity

J. Koces Zeller Schwartz Katz – Mosel region of Germany

· Aroma: Peach and Honey

· Taste: Glycerin, lower acid and creamy

2011 Firestone Riesling – Central Coast California

· Aroma: Dried peach

· Taste: Glycerin, medium acid, bright fruit, little sweeter, apricot, dried peach and stone fruits

Rieslings are very unique and probably among one of the most misunderstood wines. By this I mean that when you ask people if they would like a glass of Riesling wine most assume that it will be sweet. Though we only had three bottles for the GOTN, it was quite evident that not all Rieslings are sweet. My personal favorite Riesling is Jos. Prum Kabinett from Mosel, Germany.
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This wine is well balanced in sweetness (though slightly dry), with minerality and a perfect acid balance with apricot being on the nose and palate. Many of these characteristics were seen in the J. Koces Zeller Schwartz Katz, which is also from the Mosel region of Germany, that was poured during our GOTN tasting. There is a fine line between balance of sweetness versus thick and syrupy sweet. The great thing with Rieslings is that they offer various subtypes to allow you to select throughout this range of sweetness and style. If you are pairing with various types of foods this opens the door to a wide range of appetizers, entrees and desserts. One pairing example that may surprise you is that spicy foods go well with a good Riesling.

GOTN Riesling was an experience that opened many eyes on a wine that most of us shy away from thinking they are all sweet. I hope that this tasting enlightened those that came to a new experience with such a fantastic varietal.

I want to thank everyone that attended GOTN Riesling. I hope that the knowledge and excitement about wines and wine knowledge is shared by all. I would like to thank Guy Lelarge for allowing us to enjoy the warm service and hospitality of Valencia Wine Company. Guy and his staff are top notch in my book. Hope to see everyone at our next wine adventure.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Romania Birthplace of the Gods of Wine

January 16, 2014 by evebushman

Legend has it that the Greek God of Wine, Dionysus (who was initially a Thracian god) was born in Romania. It is no surprise that in antiquity, Plato himself, declared the vineyards of Getae (Romania, as it was known to the ancient Greeks) to be the best in the world. Once the Romans came on to the scene, the peoples and the the kingdom of Getae became known as Dacia. With Emperor Trajan’s conquest of these lands in the first century of the common era, Romania has been dominated by Latin influences. The language is in fact, along with Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, and French, a Romance language. Tucked away in the southwestern corner of Europe, where the Blue Danube opens into the Black Sea, the ancient land of Romania can boast a proud history of making wines for over 4,000 years.

Contrary to popular myth, Gypsies do not traverse the land. There are no vampires in Romania. Count Dracula and his minions do not dwell in the Carpathian Mountains. Romania is simply one of the world’s largest wine producers. Most international varietals thrive due to the country’s rich soil and dry summers.

After watching Eve and Paul Kalemkiarian’s review of a Feteasca wine, I decided to share some of Romania’s indigenous varietals with our readers. Today I am in the city of Bucharest with Long time friend and fellow sommelier, Valeria Dadiani. We are in Bruno’s, a small and cozy wine bar that is renown for its selection of wines.

“Bruno’s is definitely one of the capital’s most popular wine bars,” she flashed a wide beaming smile as she poured our first selection.

Feteasca Alba, the “white maiden” in Romanian is widely grown throughout the region of Transylvania. In essence, it is a wine for all reasons. So versatile, Feteasca Alba is used to make everything from dry, semi-dry, sweet, and sparkling wines. The wines all share a distinctive peachy aroma that is quite similar to that of Muscat.

Valeria had selected a 2011 Prahova Valley Reserve. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for 14 days, the result is a wonderfully fresh wine that is medium dry, and very easy to drink. In the glass, the 2011 is an enticing pale yellow. The bouquet exudes aomas of exotic fruits, white flowers, and elder trees. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $20.

“I would recommend serving this wine chilled,” Valeria paused lightly. “Around 45-46 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“Agreed,” I added with a nod. “What dishes would you pair Feteasca Alba?”

“Light cheeses, salads, fish, seafood,” she giggled softly. “My girlfriends and I often enjoy the Prahova Valley as an aperitif.”

“Nicely done,” I lauded her as I refilled our glasses.

Our next selection, Tamaioasa Romaneasca is also widely planted throughout the Transylvania region. The varietal is from the Near East family of Muscatel. It is believed that the Greeks and Romans, who favored their natural sweetness, were the first to bring these grapes to Romania. Due to their natural sweetness, the grapes are a preferred choice in producing aromatic wines, and is easily distinguishable by a pronounced honey-like bouquet.

Valeria selected a Prince Stirbey Tamaioasa Romaneasca Sec 2012. The Stirbey family not only produces wines of distinction, their name is synanomous with the developement of wines in Romania. In the glass, it is a radiant yellow, striated with greenish hues. Upon opening the bottle, I was greeted by an unrivalled symphony of aromas.
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The inviting floral bouquet that is filled with pears, strawberries, and honey. There are also notes of spices laced with hints of basil and freshly cut hay. The wine is fresh, with good acidity and very easy to drink. The finish is soft and clean. The alcohol content is 13% and an excellent buy at only $15.

“This is another wine that I prefer chilled,” Valeria gave a nod of assurance. “It is also popular to serve as an aperitif.”

“What about food pairings?” I queried.

“Definitely prawns,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “Your favorite, Quiche Lorraine, and my favorite, Tarte a l’oigen.”

A thought came to mind as I savored my wine. “I like the spice notes so I would pair it with select Asian dishes.”

Our next selection, Busuioaca de Bohotin, is a light red wine. It originates in Bohotin County which is located in the southeast of Romania. One distinguishable characteristic of this wine is the slight hint of bitter almonds on the bouquet. In flavor, this style of wine resembles honeysuckle, strongly influenced by ripe juicy peaches.

Valeria selected a 2010 Crama Veche Busuioaca de Bohotin. In the glass the lovely light red color casts a welcome invitation. On the nose, the bouquet is bursting with fragrant honeysuckle and ripe peach. Light and well balanced, the 2010 is the perfect wine when lounging around with that special someone. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $12.

“When I am in the mood for some wine and some soft cheese, I often turn to Busuioaca de Bohotin,” Valeria cast a playful smile. “Crama Veche is among my favorites.”

“I eat very little soft cheese, however, I think this wine would pair nicely with mildly spiced Asian dishes.”

“I think I know what we will be eating for supper,” she playfully teased. “That was your second reference to Asian food.”

Our last selection, Babeasca Negra, is an old native Romanian varietal which dates back some 2,000 years. The name translates as “grandmother’s black grape.” Reigning as Romania’s most popular wine, it is prolic throughout the regions of Moldavia, Dobruja, and Wallachia. (the kingdom of the infamous Prince Vlad Dracula) Most wines produced from this varietal are light and fruity, and meant for early consumption.

Valeria selected a Monser Babeasca Negra Demised. In the glass, this inviting semi-dry ruby-red wine is striated with black currant hues. The nose is permeated by well-ripened grapes. On the palate, this demisec is pleasant and crisp. The mouth feel is vibrant, yet subtle, with a unique flavor all its own. I did detect only a faint taste of sour cherry on the mid-palate.The finish is long and well-rounded. The alcohol content is 13% and a price tag of $13.

“Babeasca Negra is at its best when served with grilled meats … “

“That’s it!” I broke in. “Indonesian satay, accompanied by some lightly spiced dishes is the perfect way to end the evening … But that my friends, is a different story.”

Vouvray: The Flagship Chenin Blanc

August 22, 2013 by evebushman

The Loire Valley has been producing wines ever since the Romans settled the region back in the 1^st century. By the 5^th century, Loire had flourished into a premier viticultural region whose wines were highly prized throughout the ancient world. During the Middle Ages, it is interesting to point out that the wines of Loire were more highly prized than their contemporaries from Bordeaux.

Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Ivelisse Negroni. We are in the city of Tours to enjoy some of the region’s local wines. Whenever I am asked to recommend a sweeter white wine, Vouvray immediately comes to mind. However, though fruit forward, not all Vouvray is sweet. This “Right Bank“ wine ranges in styles from dry and austere to the richest dessert wines as well as excellent sparkling wines. Vouvray, “Pineau de la Loire,” as it is known to the French, is made exclusively from Chenin Blanc.
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So what makes Vouvray so special? It simply has a remarkably long life. Wines of quality that have been cellared for 30 years often show incredible freshness and liveliness.

Our first selection, Marc Bredif Vouvray 2010 is a very stylish wine. In the glass, this slightly effervescent wine is a light straw yellow. On the nose, it displays an intense fruitiness that is filled with notes of white flowers. The palate is filled with the flavors of apricots, nectarines, and honeydew, while the over all juiciness of the wine prevails. There is also a secondary trace of almonds that I found pleasant. Though the wine’s fruity characteristics prevail, it finishes dry and clean. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $20.

“Marc Bredif is very nice on a warm summer evening,” Ivelisse flashed a quick grin as she spoke in her usual light tone. “This is an ideal match for white fish or sushi.”

“I particularly enjoyed this wine’s mouthfeel and found the finish to be lingering and pleasant,” I would even consider pairing it with baked ham.”

Our next selection, Francois Chidaine Les Argiles Vouvray 2011 is bright and lively in the glass. On the nose, it is filled with citrus fruits dominated by orange blossoms. There are also subtle herbal hints with a pleasurable nuttiness. On the palate, the mouthfeel is on the drier side with clean lines and fresh acidity. It is complex and filled with an array of minerals. The finish is long and fruity. It is 100% Chenin Blanc and from 40 year old certified organic vines from the Loire Valley. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“This wine will pair best with mild poultry dishes,” Ivelisse paused to collect her thoughts. “As for fish, perhaps the best choice would be halibut.”

“Definitely a wine that will age gracefully,” I clearly displayed my pleasure with her selection.

Our last wine, Domaine S.A Huet 2007 is more dry than medium and is wonderfully concentrated. In the glass, its coloring is golden and depicts the “Old World” style. On the nose, the bouquet is filled with an assortment of citrus fruits with lemon and lime prevailing. There are also floral, green-apple, and mineral notes. On the palate, there are abundant flavors of honey, spice, lemon, and sweet pear. It is a wine that is bright and vivid in character. I also found it to be a well- integrated wine with an elegant and long finish. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $60.

“Excellent wine,” Ivelisse flashed me a wide beaming grin. “Definitely pairs well with chicken, fish, and shellfish.. I especially enjoy it with scallops.

“I like the subtle nuances of this wine. One to sip and enjoy,” I nodded in agreement. I would share this fine 2007 on a quiet evening at home with that very special person.”

“For such an evening, I would pair Vovray with cheese,” Ivelisse paused on the moment to collect her thoughts. “I should think, Cabecou, Camembert, Crottin de Chavignot, and Livarot.”

“All would pair nicely,” I patted her hand lightly.

“Is that a hint?” Ivelisse giggled softly.

But that my friends, is a different story …”