Spain’s LeDomaine Resurrects Monk’s Organic Vegetable Garden of 900 Years Ago

October 10, 2019 by evebushman

Sardón de Duero, Spain: Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine is channeling its historic roots ‒ and providing guests with the ultimate locally sourced, organic and flavorful produce in the property’s restaurants ‒ with the creation of a large vegetable garden adopting the sustainable techniques and methods used by the abbey’s original monk inhabitants in the 12^th century.

Chef Segarra in Vegetable Garden.

The location between the abbey and the river is not only ideal because of the fertile soil and abundance of water, but is the very spot where the monks had their vegetable garden almost 900 years ago. More than 90 vegetable varieties, including 10 different types of tomato, are currently being grown. This is a test year, studying how crops behave and coexist, that will determine what is planted going forward.

“We have resurrected the monastic model of working the land at Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine with an organic, sustainable and biodynamic vegetable garden that is in tune with the natural environment of the estate,” said CEO Enrique Valero. “We already have an abundant harvest of lettuces, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, beets and much more that our chefs are turning into delicious dishes for our guests.”

“The vegetables we grow at LeDomaine, in the ultra-fertile soil by the river, are of the highest quality with rich, deep and mouthwatering flavor,” said Chef Marc Segarra. “Having our own exceptional produce has added a new dimension of taste to our menus, as well as allowed us to be extra creative,” he added. “It’s currently zucchini season, for example, and we are preparing a unique version of Pasta Carbonara with roasted zucchini that is a huge hit with our guests.”

In following the biodynamic monastic model, which seeks to live in harmony with the rhythms of the universe, the vegetables are sowed in conjunction with seasonal patterns, traditional crop calendar principles are applied, and farming tasks are carried out following the phases of the moon and the location of the stars. An efficient drip irrigation system, perfected over time at Abadía Retuerta’s vineyards, saves water in the vegetable garden: One to three hours and just two days a week are enough to water the vegetable garden.

The garden is organized into six different areas, each with one or more rows. The first is dedicated to aromatic and medicinal plants, which were used centuries ago by the monks. They are grown in barrels from the winery cut in half – adding a special charm to the vegetable plot. The second row is for the flowers that are used as centerpieces and bouquets in the hotel and, in a critical function, help to preserve the natural balance of the garden: flowers attract insects that pollinate crops and feed on the bad insects which cause diseases.

Several sections —with five rows— are devoted to vegetables grown in very large raised beds with organic sheep manure. Next are four rows of soil covered with compost, where crops are planted in much greater density and rotated. Lastly, a mixed area combines flowers, fruit trees and crops that need more space such as pumpkins, melons and watermelons. The flavorful produce enhances the menus of all the hotel’s restaurants including the Vinoteca small-plates wine bar, the Cloisters spring and summer courtyard restaurant, and the One-Michelin-Star Refectorio restaurant.

About Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine

Dating from 1146, the Abadía Retuerta estate https://www.abadia-retuerta.com/en/ is nestled on 1,730 fertile acres in the heart of Spain’s Duero wine region. It is a unique destination offering a grand travel experience that combines a luxurious hotel with award-winning wines, exceptional gastronomy, an exclusive Spa and an array of unique experiences.

Imbued with the charm and lore of a by-gone age, Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine is among the most highly rated hotels in Europe, taking guests back in time while immersing them in the comforts and luxuries of today’s most savvy hospitality. Acclaimed for its award-winning single terroir wines, Abadía Retuerta Winery is among the most advanced in Europe in combining ancient wine-making traditions with cutting-edge technology and sustainability.

Santuario LeDomaine Wellness & Spa is a nurturing and innovative sanctuary of holistic healing and wellness featuring ultra-luxurious facilities and a ground-breaking Spa Sommelier concept where the guest’s personalized treatment program is based on a blind tasting of Abadía Retuerta wines.

The Refectorio, the abbey’s original dining hall with a vaulted Gothic ceiling and a 17th-century fresco, today is a One-Michelin-Star sanctuary of haute cuisine. Vinoteca serves dishes, tapas and small plates prepared with the high-quality ingredients of the region, enjoyed with the noble Abadía Retuerta wines. Seasonal dishes from salads to grilled meats are enjoyed al fresco in the spring and summer months in the Cloisters courtyard. Among the amenities and activities: 24-hour butler service, mountain biking and horseback riding on the estate, tours of the winery, helicopter rides to view the ancient landscape from the air, and falconry displays.

The Abadía Retuerta estate is a two-hour drive or train ride from Madrid. For further information and reservations: www.abadia-retuerta.com/en/; reservations@ledomaine.es; Tel. +34 98 368 0368.

Eve Wine 101 on Aroma Training

May 19, 2017 by evebushman

One of the things that has intrigued me about wine tasting is calling up aromas for my tasting notes, for myself and for pals that are struggling. I first began honing these skills via seated tastings where there was an opportunity to reflect and take notes. Further honing came with Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) certification classes. And final honing comes when I get to sit with friends and really chat about what the heck we are drinking. That final honing is my favorite, but doesn’t happen nearly enough. So, how does this all work?

Memory

Calling up aromas is exactly the same as calling up a memory – the memory of a scent found elsewhere. For example, there isn’t chocolate added to wine but both milk and dark chocolate can sometimes be detected in red wine, port and even whiskey. But if you haven’t had milk or dark chocolate it’s impossible to detect. You simply have to build your memory. I will sniff veggies and flowers at a supermarket, go through my own spice rack at home and pay attention to what is cooking on my stove to build my store of memory.

Cheats

So, after working your senses via building up your memories, you can also grab a cheat sheet, as I call it, like an aroma wheel. I have two systems: one from my WSET courses and another from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA). These are great to look over when I get stumped. It reminds me to look for fruit, floral, spice, vegetal, minerality, etc. Or you can get this really big cheat: for $549 you can buy the original 54-sample Aroma Kit by Le Nez du Vin. I saw one that you could play around with at Harrods in London and I would like to have one…someday.

Events

I’ve co-taught a few classes at our very own local Pulchella Winery. Winemakers Nate Hasper and Steve Lemley lead the class while I explain the aroma training via some handy syrups from Torani (see below) as well as flowers, spices, chocolate, tobacco and anything else I’ve found. Each is in its own un-labeled container for vinophiles to smell and guess at. Going straight from this to wine tasting makes the aroma memory that much more fresh.

Torani Syrups

If you want the full skinny of what I learned from J Lohr red winemaker Steve Peck, this excerpt is from a previous article I did for the SCV Beacon:

Meeting at J. Lohr Vineyards, which we hadn’t visited since our wonderful 2011 trip, we met in the same large room as before but this time it was set up for a component tasting. (For anyone wanting to do a component class get the Torani syrups, they are the most true. See photos here.) Along with the syrups for identifying fruit aromas, we sniffed dried and fresh flowers (rose, sage, jasmine and hibiscus), spices and other components (clove, cocoa, coffee, tarragon and fennel) trying to identify each so that later we could identify them in our wines.

Ian Adamo, the sommelier at Paso Robles’s Bistro Laurent (we had met Ian before when he paired an outstanding Adelaida dinner for us at the 2014 Cab Collective event) is currently working on his dissertation for his MS. Adamo, along with J. Lohr red winemaker Steve Peck, led us through each wine to evaluate the fruit, spice, floral, herbs, volume, astringency and then we were to try to guess the varietal of each of the five 2014 single varietal wines in front of us.

During “the next chapter” of our seminar Peck gave us a slide show that included a “style map” with color/body/mouthfeel/tannin/color broken town into styles based on their strength. He mentioned that it was akin to how someone may like their coffee: thin and astringent, dark but with creamer, etc. Pinot Noir would fall on the light end of the map while Cabernet Sauvignon would be on the dark end, and blends in the middle…(more)

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Wine 101: Why We Need Our Sense of Smell and Sight When Tasting Wine

January 2, 2015 by evebushman

When I was a teen, and home sick with a cold, my mother tried to make me happy with a gift of a large Hershey’s chocolate bar. I was so anxious to have it I ripped it open and took a big bite. My first thought was that something was wrong with the candy, maybe it was past its expiration date or something as it didn’t taste like chocolate. It tasted like nothing. It dawned on me later that my stuffed up nose prevented me from smelling the candy and thereby removed an important part of tasting it as well. Has that ever happened to you? If not try it as an experiment. Take a scarf and tie it over your nose, then take the scarf and…tie it over your eyes.

Along with the sense of taste, some of your other six senses are needed when tasting wine, and for this wine 101 article I will focus on smell and sight.

Detecting wine aroma is not just for the aficionado and/or wine writer, it’s part of the process of enjoying wine. Noting things like fruit, floral or vegetal components, spice, minerality…it is all part of your evaluation before tasting. Remove that key component and your wine may taste like an expired piece of chocolate.

I’ve read about wine taste tests where the audience was blindfolded and there were remarkable results. One study said that drinkers could not discern red wine from white wine! Hard to believe? I find this more interesting than going without a sense of smell:

“At the University of Bordeaux in 2001, Frederic Brochet conducted an experiment where he offered 57 wine experts two glasses of wine, one red and one white, and asked them their impressions. A sizable number of the experts described the red wine’s qualities in terms of its redness: that it was jammy, or displayed red fruit. The trouble was that Brochet had served them two glasses of the same white wine, and one was dyed red with a tasteless, odorless dye…. A test given by the Department of Viticulture and Enology of the University of California at Davis that asks its students a simple question: red or white? To test their tasting acumen, a series of room-temperature wines are poured into black cups. Just as with the experts in Bordeaux, the Davis students tend to fail embarrassingly at noting a difference.” (read entire article here: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/molly-laas/the-red-and-the-white_b_80308.html)

A rather scientific but easy to understand article by Jonah Lehrer, “The Subjectivity of Wine”, includes another test result of how subjective our sense of sight is, “…a middling Bordeaux (was) served it in two different bottles. One bottle was a fancy grand-cru. The other bottle was an ordinary vin du table. Despite the fact that they were actually being served the exact same wine, the experts gave the differently labeled bottles nearly opposite ratings. The grand cru was “agreeable, woody, complex, balanced and rounded,” while the vin du table was “weak, short, light, flat and faulty”. Forty experts said the wine with the fancy label was worth drinking, while only 12 said the cheap wine was (not)…”

In conclusion Lehrer wraps it up quite nicely, “What these experiments neatly demonstrate is that the taste of a wine, like the taste of everything, is not merely the sum of our inputs, and cannot be solved in a bottom-up fashion. It cannot be deduced by beginning with our simplest sensations and extrapolating upwards. When we taste a wine, we aren’t simply tasting the wine.

This is because what we experience is not what we sense. Rather, experience is what happens when our senses are interpreted by our subjective brain, which brings to the moment its entire library of personal memories and idiosyncratic desires…” Read entire article here: http://scienceblogs.com/cortex/2007/11/02/the-subjectivity-of-wine

One more article on a taste test with the color of the wine hidden:

http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2002/08/19/the-red-and-the-white

Now who wants to taste with a clogged nose or a black glass? I’ve never done the latter but I’m intrigued to try it! Anyone else?

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com