How About An Invitation to Gambero Rosso’s 1st Virtual Master Class?

July 31, 2020 by evebushman

Gambero Rosso is a huge name in Italian wines. They usually have walk around tastings for press, sommeliers, distributors and consumers. With Covid-19 ending all of that I had the remarkable luck to have been offered bottles from 12 wineries to review at home along with a live Master Class on Zoom.

The Invitation

I’m writing with a special invitation to you on behalf of Gambero Rosso, the global authority on Italian wines and publisher of the annual Vini d’Italia (Italian Wines) guide. We would like to invite you to join a small group of U.S. wine writers and key wine trade for Gambero Rosso’s first-ever virtual Master Class, hosted by Marco Sabellico, the guide’s editor-in-chief.

…12 wines will be tasted and discussed, meaning you will receive 12 full bottles of wine…You would be one of just 25 hand-selected participants from the entire U.S. This will be an interactive experience, with opportunities for you to ask questions throughout the tasting…

Wine List and Notes (some are from the winery representatives/technical sheets, the tasting notes are mine and those marked with a plus sign + were my favorites. My husband Eddie joined me for the class.)

PANIZZI

+Vernaccia di S. Gimignano 2019

The name Gimignano on the label is the town in Tuscany where the Vernaccia grapes are grown. It’s not a very well-known wine grape but of top quality. This is their 30^th vintage but back in the medieval times of the 12^th century this wine was the most exported wine. The wines sees no time in oak, it’s all stainless steel. This vintage was described as “not very aromatic” though I found it quite lively with stone fruit and pineapple notes.

BOCCADIGABBIA

Colli Maceratesi Ribona Le Grane 2018

The Ribona grapes, also known as Maceratino, are indigenous and grown in the Maceratesi area. They are 25 kilometers from the sea with both sandy and clay soils. The vineyards are 20 years old. According to the technical notes “whole grape berries, picked slightly over-ripe are added to the wine” following the first fermentation. I noted the salinity in the wine, due to the proximity to the sea air, fresh fruit, as well as an earthy quality.

ZORZETTIG

FCO Pinot Bianco Myò 2018

This winery is in Fruili, and the Spessa vineyard is designated as historical and dates back to the 1950s. The grapes are harvested by hand within the first week of September. I found spice and bruised yellow Delicious apple notes. The tech sheets mentioned having this wine with light appetizers, fish, canapes, Adriatic crab with Arugula. The crab pairing sounded just perfect to me.

CASALFARNETO

+Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. Crisio Ris. 2016

This was a reserve Verdicchio, grown close to the mountains, dating back to 1995. The wine had a rich mouthfeel with lots of citrus and apple notes. It normally spends some time in oak and a minimum one year in stainless steel. This 2016 has just been released. As it’s a reserve they are aged 18 months. Had it again, two days later, still fresh, vibrant, with tons of fruit.

VELENOSI

++Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Prope 2016

This was my favorite wine in the tasting. I got notes of sweet ripe plums, crushed black cherry, black berry – and a developed maturity for being so young and not decanted. (We left it open and enjoyed it even more with dinner later.) It is 100% Montepulciano grapes, hand-picked mid-October, vineyards are in Controguerra, gravelly soil. The maceration period can extend four weeks according to the technical notes.

CONTE LEOPARDI DITTAJUTI

+Conero Pigmento Ris. 2016

This 100% Montepulciano wine was harvested mid-November from a vineyard in Sirolo in the Conero area. That grapes are picked late harvest – early October to the end of November, barrique aging. Many of the experts in the class had decanted this Riserva Montepulciano wine, some up to 24 hours before, so we swirled like mad and really liked what we found: ripe fruit, forest floor, dusty and tannic.

CONTE EMO CAPODILISTA – LA MONTECCHIA

Colli Euganei Cabernet Sauvignon Ireneo 2016

Another to decant, the wine is a blend of dried wine grapes including 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 4% Carmenere, vineyards are 200 meters above sea level and in barrique barrels for 12 months. Because the grapes are dried, like an Amarone, there is more sugar and a higher alcohol content, 15.5%. They also freeze their yeast for fermentation for all of their wines. The wine was filled with dried fruit, olive, mint, balsamic and tannins. After more time in my glass it was earthier.

DE STEFANI

+Colli di Conegliano Rosso Stefen 1624 2015

This wine is from the Marzemino grape, which is grown in the hillside 50 kilometers north of Venice. (One of the somms remarked that the Marzemino grape is related to the Lagrein grape.) The owner Alessandro De Stefani spoke to us about his wines, and is the fourth generation to run the family-owned winery. The wine was dry, dark, sweet with both honey and Port wine notes as it developed in the glass.

TENUTA MONTETI

+Caburnio 2015

This is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Alicante Bouschet and 25% Merlot, the percentages change with each vintage, 14% alcohol, no fining, no filtering and expected to age over 15 years according to the technical notes. The vineyards are in “the tail of Tuscany, at the coast.” It tasted older than five years to me as it was very balanced, dark fruit, earthy with a lovely nose. Would benefit from decanting too.

COPPI

Gioia del Colle Primitivo Senatore 2015

This wine is from Puglia, chalk and clay soils, 100% Primitivo, handpicked the first 10 days of September, 12 months in Slavonian oak barrels, 13.5% alcohol. We noted that it was aromatic and tart, with raspberry and mint leaves. Most of the somms loved the wine. Fred Swan commented Primitivo has “the same DNA as Zinfandel. (They are) twins that grew up in different neighborhoods.”

CÒLPETRONE

Montefalco Sagrantino 2012

Made with the Sagrantino grape in Umbria, this eight year old wine has the highest percentage of polyphenols in the world according to winery representative Giacomo Alari. Pungent, tart, mushroom and tannic – the wine could probably go a few days in an opened bottle for added depth.

TENUTA SANT’ANTONIO

+Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli 2015

Sant’Antonio is known as the father and protector of the poor. Gigli is the name of a flower from the region in Verona. The vines are 40 years old, three months of raisining, three years in new casks. Another favorite in the tasting, and our last. The dried grapes that made up this Amarone offered huge aromatics and flavors, including a nice black cherry.

Facebook links:

Boccadigabbia
CasalFarneto
Còlpetrone
Az. Agr. Conte Emo Capodilista
Vini Coppi
De Stefani
Panizzi
Tenuta Monteti
Tenuta Sant’Antonio
Velenosi Vini
Zorzettig Vini

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Gregory Alonzo: Verdicchio: Italy’s Little Green One

July 25, 2013 by evebushman

Traveling throughout Italy is a journey that brings the past to life. This ancient land is rich with palaces, castles, monuments, and ruins that date back to antiquity. I guess that is one of the reasons I love this country so much, and dedicated most of my wine studies to the challenge of learning, and experiencing, the over 350 officially recognized varietals.

When most people think about the earliest days of Italian wine, their first thought is that of the ancient Romans. In actuality, it was the Etruscans, who as early as the 2nd century BCE, first began to cultivate grapes. As Greek settlers later made their way onto the Italian peninsula, they had a hand in the proliferation of wine making. However, it was the Romans who were the true innovators. Typical to their nature, Romans brought organization, and the pioneering of large-scale production to Italian winemaking. It was also the Romans who promoted storage techniques like barrel-making and bottling.

Today I am in the lovely central Italian city of Ancona. Situated between the slopes of Monte Conero, Monte Astagno, and Monte Guasco, we have an alluring view of the Adriatic Sea. As usual, I am accompanied by long-time friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto. We have been traveling throughout the Marche region and enjoying my favorite Italian white wine, Verdicchio. Affectionately known as the “little green one,” the popularity of this wine dates back to antiquity. Legend has it that when Alarich, king of the Visigoths invaded Rome, he supplied his troops with ample amounts of Verdicchio to maintain their strength in battle.

Verdicchio is synonymous with dry wines in Italy. In the Marche region, two styles prevail in popularity, Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matellica. However, both Serena and I feel that Verdicchio thrives best in Castelli di Jesi. When blended, Malvasia and Trebbiano are used as the traditional partners.

Verdicchio is a particularly aromatic variety. At its best, there are elegant aromas of citrus and nuts. The variety lends itself well to producing spumante. Sparkling wines are the local specialty on the Adriatc coast.

“Verdicchio is a pleasure to pair with most cuisines,” Serena paused lightly to ensure she had my full attention. “European, American, Asian, and Australian, are all enhanced by Verdicchio.”

“What dishes in particular?” I queried

“Roasted flounder, turbot fillets, prawns, marinated eel,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “Smokey roasted peppers, eggplant, onions, bean salad, peanut dressing, and lemon butter, to name a few.”

Our first selection, Sartarelli Verdicchio Classico 2009 is pleasing on the eye. Striated with golden hues, one feels that something special is about to happen. On the nose, our Sartarelli continues to please. The bouquet is filled with dried, flowers, peaches, and herbs. This is a medium-bodied wine that is well-balanced and polished. It fills the palate with an array of citrus flavors, nuts, and just a hint of honey to make it memorable. The finish is silky and soft. The alcohol content is 11.5% with a price tag of $15.

“This is an excellent daily drinker,” Serena was quick to add. “It pairs nicely with both fish and white meat.”

“Lunch or dinner, this is definitely the go to wine,” I flashed Serena a quick smile and a nod of approval.

Our next selection, Frazi Battaglia Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi San Sisto Classico 2007 immediately grabs one’s attention with its remarkable golden color. At first glance, I mistook it for a dessert wine. However, it is wonderfully refreshing and dry on the palate. The bouquet is most enjoyable with subtle hints of lemon, lime, and apples that lead to a full-body. The finish is long, flavorful, and creamy. This is definitely a wine to be enjoyed with seafood dishes, and since we are in Italy, that means calamari. The alcohol content is 12% with a price tag of $25.

“I really like this style of Verdicchio. It is so refreshing,” Serena was smiling as she spoke. “I would chill this at 54 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“What strikes me is the wine’s persistent fragrance,” I paused as I smacked my lips. “I also pick up just a hint of almond”

“I knew that this would definitely be your palate,” Serena smiled as she poured our next wine.

Our last selection, Aziende Agricola Bucci Verdicchio Riserva 2006 is deep gold in color. The wine has spent 6 months in oak and another 6 months in the bottle. The result is a wine that is much more concentrated. The bouquet is filled with floral and fruit accents that never diminish. It is medium-bodied and nicely balanced with flavors of spice and wood. Our Riserva it soft on the palate with an elegant and long finish. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $55.

“This is a splendid Verdicchio that is meant to be shared with that special someone,” Serena smiled with subtle coquetry.

“I’m thinking this wine would be perfect to serve with oysters or lobster.”

“I would also be comfortable serving this special cuvee from Bucci with white meat and cheese,” Serena paused to collect her thoughts. “And chill it to 65 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“You know how much I enjoy Verdicchio,” I gave Serena a wide beaming smile. “You out did yourself with this tasting. What’s next?”

“I’d love a stroll through the garden.”

“But that my friends is another story …”

Kitchen Wizards: Taste of Italy Part 2 of 5

September 5, 2012 by evebushman

Branzino Arrosto – Roasted Sea Bass with fennel and olives – paired with Verdicchio.

http://www.kitchenwizards.us/

http://www.worldwineeducation.com

Okay, now we’re all revved up. Last week I shared the first course from an Italian wine pairing class at Kitchen Wizards. Today is Course Two. Chef Herve made it very clear to the class that a fresh fish should…come with a head. It also made it easier to slip the ingredients inside, see those listed below, that would make the dish flavorful.

A Taste of Italy

Roasted Branzino

(whole roasted sea bass serves 2)

1 bulb fennel

1 orange

2 lemons

½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. olive oil

½ cup calamata olives, pitted and chopped

2 sprigs ea. sage, thyme and rosemary

2 tsp. salt

1 tsp. pepper

1 two to 3 lb. Branzino, cleaned and scaled, with head and tail left on.

Pre-heat oven to 350˚

• Remove some of the leafy greens from the fennel and place in a bowl.

• Cut fennel in half and slice as thin as possible. Add to tops.

• Zest the orange and 1 lemon and add to fennel.

Juice both and set aside.

• Add ¼ olive oil, the olives, herbs and 1 tsp. of salt and ½ tsp. of pepper. Toss like a salad and set aside.

• Pat fish dry, inside and out. Then rub with remaining olive oil. Salt and pepper inside and out.

• Stuff cavity with the fennel salad and place on a foil covered baking sheet.

• Slice the remaining lemon and place, shingled, onto the fish.

• Place baking sheet onto the middle rack in the oven and bake 20 minutes per pound or about 40 minutes total.

• Add 2 Tbsp. of olive oil to the reserved juice to make a light dressing.

Add salt and pepper and serve on the side.