Eve's Wine 101

Paso with Michael Perlis

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I know everyone goes there now, but back when we first started going to Paso, things were a lot less hectic. While I don’t think Paso will ever get as touristy as Napa, it is a lot busier than it used to be.

It seems everybody who goes to Paso now has a different experience, since there are now so many wineries to choose from. This was our latest.

We try to get to Paso about twice per year, usually timed to the Turley pick-up parties. In the old days [getting redundant, huh?], we used to go to several more wineries each day we would be there. Nowadays, we try to pick a couple of old favorites and a couple of new ones to try.

We are not really fans of the bigger and/or busier tasting rooms, although we still love to visit Tobin James [disclaimer – we are in their wine club]. Always a fun experience, but a far cry from when we first discovered Toby’s wines at a small tasting room called Templeton Corners, on Main Street in Templeton [where else?]. Templeton Corners specialized in pouring wines produced by wineries that didn’t have their own tasting rooms. [I don’t think Toby even had his own winery yet, let alone a tasting room.]

Although we usually try to stop by Tobin James on the way into Paso, we got there too late Friday for this. Instead, we just made it in time for our reservations at Artisan, one of my favorite restaurants anywhere. Had a great dinner and headed over to Cambria.

The next morning, we went to the Turley party and had a terrific time. Always fun to talk to Larry Turley and winemaker Ehren Jordan, as well as a bunch of dedicated Turley lovers of all ages.

Before heading back into Cambria for lunch, we stopped at 4 Vines for a tasting of their latest releases. Very nice Zins and red Rhones [disclaimer: we’re in their club, too], although I am not sure my humor was appreciated when I said their wines would go very well with the “live venison” we saw grazing on the adjacent hill.

Sunday morning, we made an early stop at Castoro, one of the older wineries in the area. They are always pouring a plethora of nice wines and the people are very friendly.

Then we headed over to our appointment at Ecluse Winery. For this, I owe Vic at All Corked Up a debt of gratitude. They had recently paid him a visit so he could taste their wines. [I think one of his customers had mentioned ACU to the owners of Ecluse.] Knowing what we like, he suggested we go visit them.

He was absolutely right! Great Rhones and Zin! The tasting was in the barrel room and we were hosted by the owners, Steve and Pam Lock. Very much reminded me of the old days, or at least what I think I remember of them. A perfect tasting experience. My only regret was that I didn’t ask for a tour of the property. Next time for sure! Bought several bottles.

Heading down the road from Ecluse, I spied the sign for Fratelli Perata. An old time winery [for Paso] that has stayed very small and off the beaten path. [Come to think of it, I first had their wine at Templeton Corners also, and they showed me the old logo glass to prove it.] They do have a tasting room, staffed by the family. Really enjoyed the Italian varietals and bought several.

[In the same vicinity as Ecluse, we stopped by another winery that I was really looking forward to. The wines were very good. But, in comparison to the two above, it was very impersonal. I realize that not all owners want to be onsite, and that is of course their choice. But just having a pretty girl pouring wine in the tasting room isn’t the tasting experience I am looking for.]

Pretty much at our wine tasting limit for a Sunday [getting old], we visited the Pasolivo Olive Ranch, then had lunch at Panolivo in Paso, walked around downtown Paso for awhile and then headed home. Can’t wait until next time!

Sediment: Spit, Swallow, Filter or Be Sneaky?

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On your right is a decanted 1998 Beringer Cabernet, via our coffee filter. Upon close inspection, this is the same stuff that the new SanTasti water promises to reduce from your palate. (http://www.santasti.com/) Brown, sticky and not meant for consumption. But there are several ways to avoid drinking it besides this one.

You can turn your cellared bottles, while still racked, a little, so that sediment doesn’t collect along one side. It doesn’t mean you still won’t have sediment, in fact, it just may make it harder to see. Sediment, like s—, in the immortal words of Tom Cruise in the flick Risky Business, happens.

Some sommeliers recommend that you pour your wine into a decanter while a candle underneath (that you are not also trying to hold) illuminates the point of your pour where the sediment might empty into your decanter. You are to toss the remaining wine from the bottle down the sink at this point. I have a hard time doing that. As sediment can appear too early on for me to waste so much remaining wine.

You can filter, as we did above. It worked great but seeing the sediment was a turn off to us. Like pulling steak gristle out of your teeth; it just ruined the presentation as we watched it collect and congeal.

You can decant without a filter (or just use a metal strainer to catch the big chunkier pieces) and just let it all “mix” together. It will disperse the sediment; but, in some cases of older wines, all it will do is ruin it all and hang…in each glass after glass.

My favorite? Pour the dregs into my husband’s glass last. He is usually busy espousing his thoughts on the wine, has had enough to drink to not notice it, and is used to a little sediment in all that we do together. (Or did I mean sentiment?)

Tanya Green of Wine 661 on Blush Wines

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Yes it’s hot! Let me tell you what my customers drink to cool off…
BLUSH WINES!

Blush wines have been making a comeback for some time and they’re better than ever! Gone are the days of super-sweet pink wines that we remember from the “white zin” days. Now blush wines are off-dry and are being made from some really interesting grapes. Ever seen a blush Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Malbec or Pinot Noir? They DO exist and they’re great Summer wines! They’re light and crisp, go with lots of different foods and even manage to satisfy the most discriminating wine drinkers.

Since all blush wines come from red grapes, you might be wondering how wine-makers achieve that gorgeous rose color. The answer lies in the maceration process. Much of a wine’s character comes from the grape skins, not the juice as many people believe. To lighten things up, wine-makers simply remove the grape skins earlier than they would if they were making a full-bodied, red wine. Removing the skins after a few hours [or days] creates a wine that’s light, refreshing and perfect for Summer!

At Wine 661, I serve a blush Tempranillo by the glass and it’s a huge hit! I also carry an inexpensive blush Grenache from Spain (or Garnacha as they call it in Spain) and I can hardly keep it on the shelves. At a mere $19.99 per bottle, it’s a steal! I have a blush Pinot Noir from the Coppola family of wines and it’s absolutely gorgeous! Pale pink, fruity but not sweet, lots of character and it comes in a stunning bottle!

If you haven’t tried any blush or rose wines in the past few years, give them another shot! They have a long way to go to repair the damage that “white zin” did to blush wines but if you’re adventurous enough to revisit them, you’ll be rewarded with an amazing wine experience!

Cheers!

Tanya Green
Wine 661
24268 Valencia Blvd.
Valencia, CA 91355
661.288.2980
www.wine661.com

Kudos to whoever pulled off this one making the airways

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From Steve Lemley, Pulchella Winery co-owner and member of SCV Vintners and Growers Association:
Twelve men and women compete for a chance to create and launch their own wine label nationwide. In each episode they will face challenges on every aspect of wine making from viticulture and enology to sales and marketing, but in the end only one contestant will win the title of Wine Maker.

The Wine Makers will begin airing nationwide on PBS in September 2009 during California Wine Month.

Follow this link for over 30 minutes of video showing the highlights of whats to come:

Not about wine, or car racing, from my Facebook friend, Crash Gladys

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Tribute to The King of Pop http://www.speedfreaks.tv/articles1-1278/TributetoTheKingofPop

My childhood favorite is gone. Pop singer Michael Jackson died earlier today due to cardiac arrest.

What girl my age didn’t swoon over his sexy Thriller album cover? Who didn’t love his badass-ness in the “Beat It” video? And who my age also didn’t understand why “Billie Jean” wasn’t his lover… how could that be? Well, I learned later.

All this after other members of my family watched him grow up as the lead singer of the Jackson Five. “ABC” was one of the first songs I liked from the family group… to sing it was… Easy as 123!

As a 9 yr. old, I pretty much demanded that my Mom find a way to get me to an MJ concert. Even though we in Indiana just couldn’t figure out why his Thriller tour wouldn’t visit his home state, not even in the capital of Indianapolis, I continued to hound members of my family until finally my Mom’s sister, my Aunt Sue, gave in a couple of years later and bought us tickets to the Victory Tour at Comisky Park in Chicago. Even though I was a bit older and not as much into the King of Pop (you know, trying to be ‘cool’ with my friends), I still wore my red zipper jacket, my glitter glove and glitter socks (actually those were my Mom’s ski socks at the time), my penny loafers and big sunglasses. I screamed and screamed and screamed when he walked on the stage, and according to my Aunt, I didn’t stop screaming until the concert was over… I think she is still deaf in one ear.

At family gatherings on my Dad’s side, I would force my cousins (I was the oldest of 7) to each be one of the Jackson siblings as I would portray the role of Michael. We then would perform for our parents, you know, by doing the moonwalk, shaking our right leg in the air and singing Jackson songs.

Yeah, we have it on video.

No, you can not watch it!

Seriously?!! Remember those Grammy Awards & American Music Awards where he cleaned house? I begged my Mom to let me stay up late just to see him grab another trophy… maybe that is why I wear contacts… I was glued to the TV, just inches from the screen.

Later in middle school, after the Victory Tour, I got a group together and taught each of them the ENTIRE choreography for the Thriller video. And yes I STILL have it all memorized! Someone posted a pic on Facebook of one of our ‘dance rehearsals’ that makes me laugh… thank goodness we weren’t decked out in costume. Then even later that year, a group of us gathered to watch one of Michael’s dreams come true as “We Are the World” was brought to life. How amazing!! Remember that phenomenon??

And even WAY later, in college, I was a song leader for my sorority in the large IU Sing event. When I heard the theme song would be “Can You Feel It” for my Senior performance, I was stunned. That was a Jackson Five song that I grew to love when watching Michael Jackson videos of his storybook life. In fact, my Aunt Sue actually pressed RECORD on her VCR to tape hours worth of MTV about MJ for me to have (since we didn’t have cable at my house at the time). On that very tape was “Can You Feel It” played in the background of “The Making of Thriller.”

Michael Jackson inspired me to dance. He inspired me to sing. He (along with my family) inspired me to do good for others. And believe it or not, throughout all of his trial crap in the last decade, of which we may never know if any of the accusations were true or just money driven, he inspired me to just keep believing in myself. He went through a lot, and he suffered a lot as well. But he kept trudging on… and, well, seeing him do it made me realize that I could handle all hard times as well.

Some may never get over the accused side of Michael Jackson, but at a time like this we need to, even if just for a day or so, because what the man did stand for in his heart was nothing but good.

You can tell when someone really means something to others, today, via Twitter. Yeah, it’s not scientific, but for the first time in my existence on Twitter, I noticed that ALL 10 Twitter trending topics were about Michael Jackson. ALL TEN!!

Michael Jackson, you will be massively missed, loved and will continue to be admired and appreciated by billions.

It’s been a hard week in Hollywood, losing first Ed McMahon, then Farrah Fawcett and now Michael Jackson – all three of whom are icons in their own trade! But also from Twitter, I felt that this was a nice way to sum it up:

From @AtomicShroom: Johnny & Ed will b doing The Tonight Show in heaven & 2nite Michael Jackson & Farrah Fawcett will b their guests! God Bless!
——-
OK, so this article had NOTHING to do with motorsports, or the fact that, believe it or not, SpeedFreaks is celebrating our 9th Anniversary today… but it has been therapeutic to say the least, for me to say goodbye to someone who meant a lot to me, my lifestyle, my foray onto the stage and more. Thank you Michael Jackson… may you rest in peace!
Email me: CrashG@SpeedFreaks.TV
——-
BTW, some of you have Twittered and emailed me asking about my favorite Michael Jackson songs… well, here you go:
1. Man in the Mirror – just listen to the message – there isn’t much better – and CLICK HERE for a great performance from the 1988 Grammys that you will enjoy

2. We Are the World – again, the message, and how Michael put it all together with so many talented people, for such an amazing cause

3. Thriller – I still love that video (well, at least the dancing portion)

4. Smooth Criminal – the dancing in this video is off the hook, too… and I incorporated it into one of my IU Sing performances as well

5. Can You Feel It – inspired as a youngin’, then later by IU Sing as well

6. Say, Say, Say – loved the comedy in this video and loved him paired up with Paul McCartney

7. Wanna be Startin’ Something – another song I incorporated into my IU Sing performance – just makes me wanna get up and go!!

8. Black or White – another good message song

9. Rock with You – just a feel good MJ song

10. Beat It – come on now, with Eddie Van Halen, this song revolutionized the music industry!!!

Others on my iPod:- Remember the Time- Don’t Stop ‘Til You Get Enough- The Way You Make Me Feel- Working Day and Night- Human Nature- P.Y.T.- The Girl is Mine (also with Paul McCartney)- Billie Jean- State of Shock – reminds me of that Victory Tour! Ha, ha!

Rusty’s Wine 102: Zinfandel

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Wine Connoisseurs,

Once again we had a great showing with some fine wines being shared. The wine chosen for the evening was Zinfandel. A couple of people in the group admitted that Zinfandel wines were not their cup of tea. I hope the array that was poured has changed their perspective on a very unique wine.

The Zinfandel Grape is a grape of mystery with regards to its origin. Not only do we not know its origin, we don’t even know how it got to California in the first place. What we do know is that it quickly became California’s most widely planted red wine grape and remained so for over a century. DNA fingerprinting revealed that it is genetically equivalent to the Croatian Crljenak Kaštelanski discovered on the Dalmatian coast of Croatia and also to the Primitivo variety grown in Italy along the Adriatic coast, in a region called Puglia, where it was introduced in the 1700s. The grape found its way to the United States in the mid-19th century.

The first documented use of the term Primitivo appeared in Italian governmental publications of the 1870s. The name is derived from the terms primativus or primaticcio, which refer to the grape’s tendency to ripen earlier than other varieties. This name’s appearance 40 years after the first documented use of the term Zinfandel was previously thought to suggest that Primitivo was introduced to Italy from across the Atlantic; however, this hypothesis became unlikely since the discovery of the vine’s Croatian origin. This conclusion was supported by studies in 1975 by PHD student Wade Wolf who showed that Zinfandel and Primitivo grapes have identical isozyme fingerprints. Zinfandel grapes have flourished in America.

Evidence shows that Zinfandel vines perform better in California than anywhere else in the world, and that diverse growing conditions in California allow the Zinfandel grape to express itself with a multitude of aromas and flavors.

Seven wine growing regions of California have emerged as exceptional for Zinfandel, each with its own unique set of flavor characteristics.

Amador County– Sierra Foothills of Amador produce Zins that are jammy, with pure fruit aromas of raspberry, blackberry, strawberry and blueberry producing a sweet and seductive wine.

Ridge Vineyards – located in the Santa Cruz mountains, considered one of California’s preeminent Zinfandel producers. Amador producers to watch out for are Montevina (Terra d’Oro), Perry Creek, Renwood, Boeger and Amador Foothill Winery.

Dry Creek Valley – Dry Creek Valley Zins vary from jammy, high-alcohol Zins in the Amador style to more balanced, spicy wines that often benefit from blending with other grapes. This warm region produces the jammy Amador style. Zinfandel vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley are old vines that are not trellised and never grown more than a few feet off the ground. Top Dry Creek Zins to look for include Bella, Fritz, Ridge Lytton Springs, Seghesio and Rancho Zabaco.

Paso Robles– has the heat of Amador coupled with a cooling maritime influence after sunset that preserves the acidity and makes even jammy Paso Zins taste slightly fresher than Amador Zins with the same level of alcohol.

Napa Valley– is the sleeper in the Zinfandel arsenal. Napa Zins, are generally overshadowed by cabernet, merlot and syrah. Zins from Napa tend to be more balanced and made in a “claret” style, like a red Bordeaux. Grgich Hills, Storybook Mountain, Chateau Potelle, Howell Mountain Vineyards, Fife, Niebaum Coppola and Chateau Montelena certainly make remarkable Zins. Biale is highly regarded but the Biale Zins typically have the higher alcohols more closely associated with Dry Creek Valley and the Sierra Foothills.

Russian River Valley-which has a cool climate and would be considered least likely spot to plant Zinfandel vines. Zins from this region are mostly old vine and are bright and spicy with a slightly lower alcohol content that those from other regions. Remember from previous write-ups that warmer climates lead to very ripe grapes at harvest. This provides higher sugar content which leads to more alcohol post fermentation. If a wine producer decides to stop the fermentation process early, the wines will be sweet due to residual sugars in the end product. Good example is French wines (low alcohol based on cool climate) and Australian wines (high alcohol based on a warmer climate). Examples of wineries from this region are Hartford Family, Gary Farrell and Dutton Goldfield Zins.

Mendocino County-The wines of Mendocino aren’t as well known because they aren’t as heavily marketed, but a couple of wineries from this area are Mariah Zins, Edmeades and Gabrielli.

Rancho Cucamonga-, has only recently becoming noticed by Zin drinkers despite the fact that its Zinfandel vineyards are some of the oldest in California. Wineries from this district are Lopez Winery, Geyser Peak Winery in Geyserville which produces a Zinfandel from old Rancho Cucamonga vines, as do a number of Temecula Valley wineries (South Coast, Hart and Thornton, to name a few) and San Diego County’s Orfila Vineyards. One Item that I would like to mention about Zins from Temecula is that they tend to have a raison/prune taste. This is the result of being grown in a very hot area. Warmer regions tend to produce great Zins, but is there a point where it can actually impart flavors that may not be as accepted by wine drinkers? Topic for another day.

Zinfandel is one red varietal that is probably best enjoyed within three to five years of the vintage. With more bottle age than this, the fruit that distinguishes Zinfandel drops markedly and the wine can show a pronounced “hot” taste of higher alcohol levels.

Zinfandel grapes produce wines with flavors raspberry, cherry, blackberry, zesty and spicy-pepper character which combined with its earthy tar and leather aromas means that this grape can truly produce a wide range of wine styles. This was seen at our tasting where we had the elegant, rich light style of the Williams Selyem compared to the bold character of the Brochelle with its full body and very pronounced fruit profile. Below is a chart that shows the common aroma and flavor characteristics of Zinfandel wines.

Typical Zinfandel Smelland/or Flavor Descriptors


Varietal Aromas/Flavors:
Processing Bouquets/Flavors:
Fruit: raspberry, blackberry, boysenberry, cranberry, black cherry, (jammy can be used with all)
Carbonic Maceration: tutti-frutti, candy, bubblegum
Herbal: briar, licorice, nettle
Oak (light): vanilla, coconut, sweet wood
Spice: cinnamon, black pepper
Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar

Bottle Age: musk, mushroom, earth, leather cedar, cigar box

Here is Appellation Americas comical overview of the zinfandel grapes to help us remember what a Zin is all about:

Zinfandel, Zinfandel…You’re a master of disguise. Who is that masked man known as ZIN? You hide behind a mask of contradictory styles. Are you the soft, sweet hombre often seen in the Central Valley, disguised in a vibrant pink cape? Or perhaps you are the fire-breathing rogue of the Sierra Foothills, a spicy-natured, tannic beast. How will you appear next?…and where! Always willing to change your facade to suit the environment, your true nature seems to be adaptability, itself. You are a legend in California; friend of the poor pisano, and delight to the pompous patron. Truth is, you’re no robber at all…you give to all!

It is great that we had wines from a few of the 7 known zinfandel regions of California. It was quite impressive seeing all of the subtle differences between them. Here are the notes from the Zin wines that were brought tonight.
Tasted Wines

2007 Layer Cake Primitivo – Puglia Italy

Aroma: Licorice, Musty, Nothing really stood out on the nose
Taste: Licorice , Creamy, Spices
In fairness to this wine, I tried this wine the day after the tasting and was detecting dark fruits in nose and taste, definite candidate for decanting. I have not been a firm follower of decanting as I like to smell and taste the changes of a wine over time. Unfortunately, at a tasting some wines do not get a chance to breath and open up.
wine maker’s notes:
Rating:
Could not find any ratings
September 16, 2008 – Napa Valley, Calif. – Jayson Woodbridge, renowned global winemaker and owner/winemaker of Hundred Acre and Layer Cake wine brands, today announced that celebrated winemaker, consultant and good friend, Philippe Melka, will join his Layer Cake winemaking team. Layer Cake Wines demonstrate Jayson Woodbridge’s vision of crafting wines based on his own personal experiences and journeys with people and vineyards around the globe. The high quality, handcrafted wines consist of a one hundred percent Old Vine Primitivo (Zinfandel) from Puglia, Italy, Shiraz from the Barossa Valley and South Australia, a Côtes Du Rhône from the Rhône Valley in France, and a Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina, all retailing for just $15.99 – an incredible value.
Tasting Notes :
The wine is opaque and purple-colored with a nose of jammy black cherry and blackberry fruit, truffles, tar, and spice. Warm and rich in the mouth; the ripe fruit is well supported by the depth of the structure.

2006 Brochelle – Paso Robles

Aroma: Coffee, Chocolate

Taste: Licorice , Creamy, Spices
wine maker’s notes:
Rating:
Unable to find ratings
Tasting Notes :
Layers upon layers (upon layers!) of elegantly perfumed and richly structured fruit that dances excitedly on the palate. An essence of warm, fresh baked gingerbread cookies can be found within. You will uncover notes of deep caramel, black currants and blackberry jam. There is a densely textured mouthfeel and grand finale comprising a kiss of pumpkin pie spice.
~Drink now and until 2020.

2004 Mariah – Mendocino Valley

Aroma: Blackberries, Vanilla, Lacquer (when first opened)
Taste: Vanilla , Red apple, Blackberries, Dry on the palate, Pepper, Light body like William Selyem
wine maker’s notes:
Rating:
· Connoisseurs’ Guide Rating: 87pts
15% Petite Sirah; 5% Syrah; 1% Carignane. This wine’s intense first nose of ripe blackberries and sweet spices belies its tightly structured character in the mouth. Both acid and tannin take on major roles, and more than balance the ripe fruit flavors that rise up underneath.

2004 Rancho Zabaco Toreador – Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma

Aroma: Dark Plum, Blueberry, Jammy
Taste: · Dark plums · Blueberries · Very Acidic when first opened but left as it opened up
Remember the topic on good and bad acids in wines that I wrote a couple of weeks ago? This is an example of acetic acid which is a volatile acid. This is what is known as a bad acid. Don’t confuse it with Tannic or Malolactic acids which are what are called good acids and are needed to provide character and longevity to a wine. Being volatile, acetic acid will not remain in the wine once the bottle is opened and exposed to air. Decanting will assist in fast removal of this type of acid.
wine maker’s notes:
Rating:
Robert Parker : 94 points.
The 2004 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Toreador is absolutely amazing and one of the great Zinfandels of that vintage. This wine boasts a dense ruby/purple color and a big, sweet nose of ground pepper, dried herbs, lavender, black cherry jam, raspberry, and licorice. Full-bodied, powerful, and concentrated, this stunning Zinfandel should drink well for up to a decade.

2005 Storybook Mountain Vineyards Estate – Napa Valley

Aroma: Berries,Vanilla, Wine with great finesse
Taste: · Fruit Forward · Noticeable tannins
wine maker’s notes:
Rating:
· Wine&Spirits: 95 points.
· Connoisseurs’ Guide: 95 points
Wine&Spirits:
“Irresistible …aromas pile up in a heady rush of roses, wildflowers, crushed rock and black pepper. The dark, glass-coating pomegranate color shows off its power…”
95 PTS.- 100 best wines of the year.
Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wines:
In more vintages than not, this bottling has turned out to be our favorite from Storybook Mountain. And here again, it is a ripe, generous, yet impeccably balanced wine whose keen blackberry fruit in nose and mouth comes with a mix of intensity and youthful restraint that promises more and better as the wine ages. Fullness plays off against firming acids, and tannin crops up in the late going, and so much about this lovely wine calls for a bit of patience that we would caution against early drinking lest you miss the best it will have to offer.

2007 William Selyem Baciagalupi Vineyard – Russian River Valley Sonoma

Aroma: Blackberries, Red Raspberries, Cherry
Taste: Bing Cherries, dryness to the palate, Minerality to the finish, Characteristics of a Pinot (not a typical zin profile), Very elegant and classy wine
wine maker’s notes:
Rating:
· Robert Parker: 93 points
Wine Advocate As for the 2007 Zinfandel Bacigalupi , this wine is dense, chewy, medium to full-bodied, with relatively elevated alcohol, loads of spice, red and black fruits, as well as herbs and underbrush.

The nose exhibits concentrated blackberries, dark chocolate and black pepper with unadulterated wild raspberry jam. The same depth of fruit fills your mouth with hints of roasted cocoa, coffee and anise. Full and concentrated in the mouth, the finish is thick, lush and maturely tannic. 15.1% alc.—Winemaker Bob CabralDetailed Wine InformationAppellation: Russian River ValleyVineyard Notes: The grapes for this wine come from a small block of old vine zinfandel in the Russian River Valley. The Bacigalupi zinfandel vineyard is less than 2 acres of 90+ year-old head pruned vines, which naturally yield low tonnage that produces very concentrated wines.Vintage Notes: For this wine, Bob selected hand-made French oak barrels, with medium-plus toast. The wine was aged for 14 months in Francois Freres, Troncais oak barrels, 84% one-year-old, 16% two-year-old. 15.1% Alcohol, 0.65g/100ml TA, 3.43 pHReleased Spring 2007

Conclusion:

Hopefully, we will have some converts within the group to try more Zinfandel wines. My perfect evening in the winter is to sit down in front of a fireplace and relish the spices mixed into layers of fruits of a fine Zinfandel. Remember, this is what we enjoy around the Christmas holiday. This Christmas, treat yourself to a piece of ginger bread with a fine Zin. If you want to go a step further, try a late harvest Zin with the concentrated fruits and sugars. I doubt that you will be disappointed.

I hope that the evening of Zins that we shared with their wide range of tastes and characteristics will lead you in a search for what your palate considers a perfect wine.

Until next time…Cheers,

Rusty

Second Annual Visit: Two Hearts Estate

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Susie Clark, of Two Hearts Estate, recently sent me news of a winemaker’s conference she and her husband Kerry attended. Tasting and talking to other home winemakers sounded very exciting and she agreed to allow me to run her news in an upcoming guest post.

This last weekend my husband Eddie and I were invited to taste some of their recent vintages. We hadn’t been up to their Castaic home and winery since last year. And that year proved fruitful for us all as the Clark’s met the Carpenters (over a shared story by yours truly). Chris and Jeannie Carpenter are also home wine makers, knew a slew of others in our valley, and organized the first Assistance League sponsored Sunset in the Vineyard event that highlighted private home winemakers.

This year, as last, Kerry had several Winemaker Magazine awarded vintages to try. And I jotted down a few notes during the tasting

On the wine

We started out tasting with his 2008 Grenache Blanc, a Rhone white. We were immediately brought back a year; these wines were what we had come to expect, incredibly good. Next was a Rhone white blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Marsanne (all Tablas Creek clones by the way). “It’s a blend of all whites,” Kerry began. “It’s a very drinkable Rhone white with characteristics of honeysuckle, spice and refreshing acidity.”

The Gruner came next with 12% alcohol. “I purchased the grapes and this is my favorite wine as it’s fuller and sweeter”.

A 2008 Muscat Susie lingered over. Again with Two Hearts Estate grapes, 11% alcohol. As 10 vines only produced about a gallon, the flavors of honey and fruit made it more than worthwhile.

We then started on the reds with a 2007 100% Primitivo from their hills again. With lots of spice and blueberry notes, his 60 pounds of grapes made 3 gallons. The nose was competitive with commercial Primitivo to me.

Eddie liked the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon made from Washington grapes that had softened nicely after bottling.

Tasting the 2007 Malbec from Argentinean juice (that now sits on my desk for inspiration) Kerry’s back label notes read: “…dark dense structure with a full rounded mouthfeel. Prominent lush flavors of cherry, black currant and blackberry…cloves, vanilla, caramel, chocolate, spice, fruit.”

And finally, a favorite, was the 2007 Syrah “Scorched Earth”. The Clark ’s had come home from vacation in time to see a slight dusting of ash on their grapes from the horrific fires last year. It did have a toasted flavor to it that wasn’t toasted barrel oak. Ed and I really enjoyed that one.

On winemaking

Susie makes time for gardening and the back yard, where a year ago landscaping was being done, now boasts several colorful flower pots, a beautiful clay pot fountain and spice garden. Kerry, on the other hand, only has time for farming the vines.

Kerry is now growing over a dozen varieties, made more quantity in 2008, with 2007 being the first time he was turning his own grapes into wine.

“Once the vineyard is ‘dialed in’ everything is okay and it’s just irrigation. But you’ve got to be in your vineyard a lot. We only take a few days off and then we need to work until it’s balanced again.”

We recalled that Kerry does buy some of his juice and he had something new on that front as well. “We can purchase flash-frozen grape juice. It has to remain at minus 10 degrees until you are ready to use it. I bought some Napa Sauvignon Blanc juice that way.” Eddie thought that, theoretically, you could be making the same wine as Mondavi if you can get the same grapes frozen and delivered. But it doesn’t end with the grapes.

“We also experiment with yeast, how much or how little we add. The same goes for sulfites. Sulfites reduce oxygen damage and kills bugs. We follow a formula and you know if a white wine is too gold that there was probably oxygen damage. If we siphon out a little wine to taste, we may need to fill up the the fermenting bottle with marbles to displace space, raising the wine levels and keeping oxygen out. It’s all chemistry. And it’s Susie’s nose that’s more reliable than mine.”

Susie’s guest post coming up soon tells of the Clark ’s recent attendance at a winemaker conference. “There are people there that ‘fix’ wines and wine labs that you can send a sample of your wine to (or they come to you). Then they tell you what you need to do to repair a wine instead of throwing it out or losing your reputation.”

Though the Clark’s are not concerned with their winemaking reputation they are invested in learning more and creating better vintages with each year. The last thing they’ve done besides, planting, farming and studying chemistry is to allow their dog Boomer his opportunity to assist. Because, as we finally rose to leave, it was Boomer that tore out the front door, ran up the hill and zoomed through row after row in the ever enchanting part of winemaking for a dog: chasing rattlesnakes, rabbits, quail and crow. Things sulfites wouldn’t stand a chance against.

Cheese Making in the SCV

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At a recent Santa Clarita Vintners and Growers Association blind Zinfandel tasting (separate post) we were in for a unique treat – and one that didn’t involve wine.

Corry De Robertis, seemingly plucked from the dairies of his ancestor’s home in Italy, walked in to a room of wine makers with: Goat Balls.

Corry happens to be a home cheese maker. Not satisfied with kits, he found them as a jump – start to an interest not unlike the winemakers surrounding him in palatable interest. Corry had found a way to express his need to make something with his hands in a way wine makers, and non-wine makers, could appreciate.

Like having wine with winemakers or beer in a beer garden, having fresh homemade cheese was a treat no one was prepared for. Surprising, delicate, attractive and incredibly flavorful.

“I brought Sauvignon Blanc because it pairs well with goat cheese and it also would cleanse our palate so we could accurately taste the Zin later. My goat cheeses tend to lay on the palate for several minutes or more. The high acidity breaks through and cleanses away the “goaty” flavor.”

Corry is considering a cheese making party as one of his cheeses, the mozzarella, takes only 30 minutes to set up. But for the purists, that know they can’t buy these cheeses anywhere and don’t know Corry’s address, here is a sampling of the talent Corry shared with us:

Cheese making is my passion (I absolutely love wine too!). Similar to wine, cheese is an expression of the land and climate (terrior). For me, the terrior changes week by week. I am at the mercy of the ever-changing local milk supply at the market.

In the last couple years, the milk supply in the U.S. has been over pasteurized (heated to extreme temperatures so it lasts longer), making home cheese making a bit of a challenge.

I might have a “connection” to some farm fresh milk! Senior Hernandez, where are you? In the meantime, I use the milk available to me. (editor’s note: To learn more about Senior Hernandez’s cheese connection try starting here: http://www.dairygoatjournal.com/issues/86/86-1/Tim_King.html)

I love spending time in my kitchen creating new cheeses. Each one with its own personality. Sometimes refreshing, delicate and young like a white wine and other times complex, robust and aged like a full bodied red.

At the SCV Vintner’s dinner, I showcased a few cheeses. Two got the most attention. The first was a fresh cow’s milk Mozzarella filled with Jalapeno cream. Similar to a cheese from Pulia Italy where my mother was born called “Burrata” except I kick it up a notch with jalapeno peppers. Light and delicate on the outside, but packed with “heat” on the inside.

The other cheese was a mold ripened goat cheese. I brought 2 styles. One was ripened with white Penicillin mold. (The same mold that forms the rind on Brie.) The mold softens the cheese and imparts earthy flavors. I formed some into small “goatballs” and the others into 3 inch wheels. The second style I used white mold and then brushed vegetable ash on them before the mold developed. This adds another flavor component and looks kind of cool like a geode stone when sliced. They are similar to a cheese from Indiana called the “Wabash Cannonball”.

Like with all cheeses the aging process AKA “afinage” is where it gets tricky. This requires daily flipping and monitoring humidity to ensure mold growth. This year I am focusing on rind development. There are so many possibilities. I might even try a wine soaked cheese.
Fresh bread, a piece of cheese and a glass of wine with my wife and friends …. Is there anything better? I don’t think so.

Cor.

Rusty’s Wine 102 Taste of the Grape: Syrah/Shiraz

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Fellow Wine Connoisseurs,

Once again we had an enjoyable time with good friends and fine wines. Unlike our last Syrah/Shiraz tasting, this time we had examples from California, Australia and France. The wines were all fantastic and it allowed us to see diversity between many terroirs.

Syrah/Shiraz Background:

This grape is known as Syrah in France and Shiraz in Australia. In the United States, either name is applied depending on the style of the winery. Research points toward Persia as the origin for the Shiraz grape and appropriately, was named for the city of origin which was Shiraz. DNA and ampelographic (field of botany that studies the identification and classification of grapevines) findings however, do not support this belief. To date, the evidence supports that Syrah grapes are from Northern France. Syrah is the offspring of two obscure grapes from southeastern France, the Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche. It should not be confused with Petit Syrah, a synonym for Durif, a cross of Syrah with Peloursin.

Syrah is the primary grape of the Northern Rhone and is associated with classic wines such as Hermitage, Cornas and Cote-Rotie. In the Southern Rhone it is used as a blending grape in such wines as Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Cotes du Rhone, where Grenache makes up the bulk of the blend. This was seen in our Rhone varietal tasting a few weeks ago. Syrah in its most heavily extracted form will age for decades, however, less-extracted styles can be enjoyed young providing lively red and blueberry characters and smooth tannin structure. Syrah has been widely used as a blending grape.

The syrah grape was introduced to Australia in 1832 by James Bushby who brought in vines of several varieties from Europe. By 1844 Shiraz was a recommended variety for Australia in Sir William Macarthur’s Letters based on his own research and experience. For at least its first hundred years in Australia, Shiraz was used as a blending grape and not bottled as a Shiraz. The late blooming nature of the Syrah grape suited the warmer growing conditions found in Australia.

One of the key items that was noted at the tasting is that the wines from the warmer climates like Australia were sweeter and riper tasting. The wines from cooler climates like the Rhone valley of France, displayed more pepper and spice aromas in their flavor and lacked the sweetness.

Remember the article on acids, where warmer climates result in high sugar and low acid whereas cooler climates result in low sugar and high acid. What I find more amazing is the sweetness verses alcohol content. When grapes are grown in warm climates, the residual sugars in the grape are higher than those in cooler regions. By having so much sugar available for yeast to consume during fermentation, the wines in regions like Australia can not only achieve high alcohol content, but also maintain a substantial level of sweetness. Winemakers control sweetness by stopping fermentation before all the natural grape sugar have been turned into alcohol and carbon dioxide by the yeast.

As an example, the Molly Dooker Carnival of Love Shiraz from Australia had an alcohol content of 16% yet still maintained a level of sweetness where Clos des Grives Domaine Combier from France had an alcohol content of 13% and was not as sweet but rather dry. What this means is that the grapes from Australia had a lot of residual sugar compared to the grapes from France. Even though the French wine was drier meaning most of the sugar had been converted to alcohol, the alcohol content never reached the level of the Australian wines.

Syrah usually becomes drinkable at an early age and most are produced for consumption within a year after release (2rd year from harvest). In Australia, Shiraz has found a real home. The Shiraz grape is the most widely planted red grape variety in Australia where it is sometimes blended with Cabernet Sauvignon or occasionally with Mourvedre. Syrah is widely used to make a dry red table wine, which can be both varietal or blended.

Four main uses can be distinguished:

1. Varietal Syrah or Shiraz. Of the more well-known wines, this is the style of Hermitage in northern Rhone or Australian Shiraz.

2. Syrah blended with a small amount of Viognier. This is the traditional style of Cote-Rotie in northern Rhone.

3. Syrah as a roughly equal blending component for Cabernet Sauvignon. In modern times, this blend originated in Australia, so it is often known as Shiraz-Cabernet.

4. Syrah as a minor blending component for Grenache and Mourvedre. This is the traditional style of Chateauneuf-du-Pape of southern Rhone.

Due to their concentrated flavors and high tannin content, many premium Syrah wines are at their best after some considerable bottle aging. In exceptional cases, this may be 15 years or longer.

The flavors and aromas of the Syrah grape are the results of its thick-skinned and dark, almost black fruit. Its wines are intense with a dark purple-black color. The wines taste of blackberry and currant fruit, smoke, tar and black pepper, and have a smooth supple texture. Syrah reflects minerality well, and the chalky character of the tannins provides a wonderful backbone to softer, fruitier varietals such as Grenache. In blends, Syrah provides structure, a deep blackish-purple color, minerality, and longevity.

Now that we have a little background on the Syrah grape, let’s review the group’s findings on the many examples brought to the tasting. I was glad that we did get a large variety of examples as this can show all of the different variations that a wine can achieve based on terroir and processing differences in different countries.

Wines:

2006 Clos des Grives Northern Rhone, France
13% ABV
Aroma: Earthy, More like a Burgundy
Taste: Old world profile, Cherry , Smooth
Professional/Vintners Notes:
Rating WS: 91 points

Tasting Note :
Clos de Grives is wonderfully vibrant in colour with a rich complex nose of chocolate and mocha underlaid by intense fruit character and a hint of tobacco. The tannins and the oak are wonderfully well integrated and the finish is a joy, a rare mixture of complexity, concentration and elegance.
Vinification Note :
Combier’s top cuvée is the outstanding Clos des Grives. The work in the vineyards is chemical free and organic. Produced from 100% Syrah hand picked from the Combiers oldest parcels of vines it undergoes a traditional vinification, with fermentation in inox vats and a long maceration of approximately 25 days. The wine is then aged in new oak barrique to add complexity and depth to an already outstanding product.

2007 Carnival of Love McLaren Vale, South Australia
16% ABV
Aroma: Jammy , Blueberries , Caramel
Taste: Blueberries , Toffee , Caramel , Mocha , Coffee , Elegance
Professional/Vintners Notes:
Rating WS: 95 points
Wine Spectators #9 Choice out of the Top 100 Wines of 2008

Tasting Note :
Big, rich and terrifically ripe. A lithe mouthful of pure blueberry, wild blueberry and Asian spices, with swirls of plum and other berries as the finish rolls on, unimpeded by tannins. In the end, this has elegance to go along with its power.

2004 Blue Rock Syrah Alexander Valley, Sonoma
Aroma: Black cherries , Plum , Eucalyptus , smoke , tobacco
Taste: Black cherries , Eucalyptus on the finish
Professional/Vintners Notes:
Rating Wine Enthusiast: 90 points

Tasting Note :
This is winemakers Nick Goldschmidt and Kenneth Kahn’s fourth vintage of Blue Rock Syrah, made from 100% estate grown Alexander Valley fruit. Focused on grace and elegance rather than extraction, the wine’s smoky meat, pomegranate and blackcurrant aromas are redolent of Northern Rhône. The bouquet continues on the palate, adding game and earth flavors as well as some black cherry. Soft, fine-grained tannins make this wine approachable now, but it has enough structure to continue to improve over the next five years. The tannins are dusty and astringent and give the wine a lockdown character, so you’ll want to cellar this one. Aging is no problem. The wine is dry and balanced, with a rich array of blackberry, pomegranate, cola, sweet leather, coffee and spice flavors that have been generously oaked. Should improve by mid-2008 and evolve for another few years.

2006 Bella Piazza Shenandoah Valley
15.2% ABV
Aroma: Jammy , Plum , Mineralality , Vanilla
Taste: Acidity , Blueberries , Vanilla , Anise
Professional/Vintners Notes:
Rating:
Unable to find reviews or ratings on the 2006 vintage
Tasting Notes:
Unavailable.

2003 Mi Sueno Napa
Aroma: Jammy , Dark Berries
Taste: Blueberries , Vanilla, Tannins noticeable
Professional/Vintners Notes:
Rating:
Wine Enthusiast: 90 points

Tasting Notes:
Shocking…Intense…Breathtaking…The blackish-purple color is the first hint as to the depth of this wine. The second clue is the dazzling array of succulent Napa Valley black fruits, violets and smoked meat aromas that waft through the air. In turn, the palate is greeted by a silky layer of ripe black fruit flavors and freshly roasted espresso. Add to that a touch of Old World leather and Mother Earth and you get the New World expression of a Northern Rhone classic. Lively acidity and fine grained tannins brings it to a satisfying conclusion.

2005 Greenpoint Reserve Yarra Valley, Australia
14% ABV
Aroma: Plum , Vanilla , Spices
Taste: Spices
This wine was unique in that John and I perceived that the wine had almost no taste when first entering the mouth. Then it opens up builds to a long finish. I have never tasted a wine with this characteristic. This is also noted in the second paragraph of the Professional/Vintners notes below by the professionals tasters.
Professional/Vintners Notes:
Rating:
Wine Spectator: 91 points

Tasting Notes:
Rich magenta with a ruby hue. Intense fruit aromas of blackberries, mulberries and boysenberries combine with hints of black pepper, anise, violets and gardenias to produce a vibrant and aromatic wine. Soft and supple upon entry, the wine extends to offer concentrated flavors of cracked black pepper, anise and coriander. Delicate and opulent, the mouthfeel is further enhanced by soft and velvety tannins to provide a signature cool climate Shiraz.

Conclusion:

I was very pleased with the showing of people and many examples of Syrah/Shiraz wines. We were all shown the effects of the different terroirs (France, USA and Australia) on the syrah/shiraz wines. I included the alcohol by volume content to re-enforce the effects of the warm versus cooler climates. This was seen in the Australian wines (high alcohol, sweeter and fruitier) compared to France (lower alcohol, dry to the palate and subtle fruits).

Syrah wines from the US were in-between France and Australia when it came to alcohol content and sweetness. Does this mean that it would be safe to say that the temperatures that the grapes are grown is directly proportional to the alcohol content and sweetness of the wine? Remember that other factors come into play such as when a winery decides to pick the grapes as well as when they decide to stop the fermentation process. The key thing is how much sugar is available.

In closing, here is a Comical overview by the Rhone Rangers of the Syrah grape to help remember its characteristics and roles in the wine world.

“During the Roman occupation of Gaul you rose to fame as a captive vine turned gladiator. Your legend grew in the spartan competition of Northern Rhône amphitheaters. But little did the Romans know; you had more than just brute tannic power. Behind your fiery, spicy attitude there was the soul of a great leader. You outlasted the Romans and eventually ruled the Rhone Valley from the hill of Hermitage. But your greatest victory was to come in the New World, as emperor of the masses ‘Down Under’. Never one to rest on past laurels, you have set your sights on America. It is only a matter of time before you conquer this continent, leading the charge of an imposing legion known as the “Rhone Rangers”.”

Cheers,
Rusty