Vintage Beacon Circa May 2010: Four Brix and Pulchella meet In Vino Veritas

February 24, 2015 by evebushman

What do 3 winemaking couples in Simi Valley have in common with 2 winemaking couples in Santa Clarita besides, of course, wine?

Both have websites, belong to their local vintner’s association, a tasting room – or one very soon- and have met at the same crush pad in Paso Robles.

Thousand Oaks via Paso

Gary Stewart, one proprietor of Four Brix Wine, gave me a splash of things to come in their new dedicated tasting room open Sundays at WineYard in Thousand Oaks. The wine, soon-to-be in the SCV I hope, and the WineYard tasting room were both new to me. Today I introduce them to you.

The WineYard, the only wine bar/store in Thousand Oaks, is about a 45-minute drive from Santa Clarita. But instead of driving through a dessert to get there, I was rewarded by rolling grassy hills that could’ve easily been dotted with vines.

Once arriving I saw that guests could either sit outside and enjoy the weather with their wine, or choose from either the long indoor bar or tables close to the outdoors via large windows. There was more than enough wine between the cold unit, wine racks, and even more retail space behind the bar. Guests came in and made themselves comfortable and I settled in for the afternoon.

Now, onto our winemakers.

The Stewarts, Simonsgaards and Noonans, a mighty band of Rotarians, are making 5 California blended wines in old world styles from 11 single varietals, 9 vineyards and 6 appellations.

Born from their worldwide travels, wine tasting became a focused passion for the three couples. They hooked up with 20 other Simi Valley families, forming the Indian Meadows Vintners Association; the name based on the housing development they all lived in back in 2001.

Stewart is mostly self-taught, adding classes from UC Davis, and was mentored by winemaker Ryan Horn at the Vintner’s Vault in Paso; the other couples offered years of palate experience. I then offered up my own palate to try the swanky labels he had for Deductive (Zinfandel and Petite Syrah), Rhondevous (Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache) and my personal favorite, Scosso (Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot).

We chatted it up about getting Four Brix together with our local Pulchella for a wine tasting in the Santa Clarita Valley…and maybe the entire Ventura County Wine Trail will soon be brought to a wine bar near you…

http://www.fourbrixwine.com/

http://www.wineyardinc.com/

Newhall via Paso

Eve,

Much like Gary at Four Brix winery, Nate and I both have followed the path to commercial winery from self-taught knowledge. We both starting making wine over ten years ago in our homes. Buying juice kits and learning the rules to making wine. Graduating to purchasing fruit from vineyards in small lots and fermenting in small bins.

For years as we learned the “rules” we started to notice that if you respected the “rules” but started to break them, the wine changed for the better. As we started to break the “rules”, the wine developed into something that was truly unique and complex.

It was around this time that friends and family started to comment on the quality of the wines and pushed us to start thinking of offering the wines for sale because they were standing up against some of the best commercial wines available. A hobby had officially turned into an infatuation at this point and we know there was no turning back. Our passion for making wine could not be overlooked and in 2007 we decided to file the permits and licenses to become a commercial winery.

Our philosophy was to produce very high concentrated and elegant wines in small lots to ensure we could continue to focus on quality and not let the quantity affect the final product. We are committed to only producing wines in lots of fewer than 100 cases each.

Our winemaking style is not driven by attending UC Davis classes on how to make wine like everyone else. It’s driven by our past experiences, knowledge and respect for the process and continued passion to make the wines better every year. This is what makes our wines unique.

Our tasting room will be opening soon in old town Newhall on Main Street and we hope you will come and support our passion.

Steve Lemley

Co owner / Winemaker

www.PulchellaWinery.com

RUTHERFORD APPELLATION WINERIES SHIFTING FROM PASSPORT TO WINE EXPERIENCE

November 3, 2014 by evebushman

RUTHERFORD, CA – Rutherford Appellation Wineries, the consumer arm of the Rutherford Dust Society, has announced an exciting new direction for its annual weekend event, shifting from a Passport format to a more intimate, in-depth Rutherford Wine Experience hosted by Rutherford wineries and highlighting the historically award-winning wines of this premier appellation.

The new format will be launched with a mini-Rutherford Wine Experience on December 5th and 6th, 2014.
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The weekend will begin on Friday, December 5th with an evening Welcome Reception hosted by Round Pond Estate, followed on Saturday, December 6th by a “menu” of special receptions, wine tasting seminars, and dining at two Rutherford Restaurants: a 3-course Winemaker Luncheon at Michelin One-Star Auberge du Soleil (Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s 100 Best Restaurants of 2014) and a 4-course Winemaker Dinner at Alex Restaurant (Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Wine List Award of Excellence in 2013 and “Best of” Award of Excellence 2014).

Guests will have the ability to personalize their Rutherford Experience with the option to purchase a la carte tickets to the Friday Welcome Reception ($50 per person, 7pm-9pm), the Saturday tastings/seminars and luncheon ($145 per person, 10am-5pm, four options per morning and afternoon time blocks), and the Saturday evening Winemaker Dinner ($125 per person, 6:30pm-9pm), or an all-inclusive Rutherford Enthusiast pass that will give them access to all of the events ($295 per person). All ticket options are available for purchase now on the association’s website, www.rutherford-appellation-wineries.com. Tickets will not be available on the weekend of the event.
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The Grand Launch of the Rutherford Wine Experience weekend will be held in the Spring of 2015 on May 1st, 2nd and 3rd with a Friday evening Welcome Reception, two full days of special events, tastings and seminars on Saturday and Sunday with multiple options for each time block, and two winemaker dinners on Saturday evening.

Rutherford Appellation Wineries is an association of wineries residing in this historical appellation of the Napa Valley and includes producers of acclaimed Rutherford and Napa Valley wines. Proceeds from the association’s events benefit local charities like the Rutherford Volunteer Fire Department, Rutherford 4-H, the restoration of the historic Rutherford Grange and others.

For information about the upcoming December Rutherford Wine Experience, as well as the May 2015 event, please visit www.rutherford-appellation-wineries.com or the Rutherford Appellation Wineries Facebook page, or email info@rutherford-appellation-wineries.com.

Celebrating its 20th anniversary as an official appellation, the Rutherford Appellation is located in the heart of the Napa Valley. It is known world-wide for its signature “Rutherford Dust”, a term used to reflect its terroir, its deep connection to the soil in the vineyards, the wine and the wineries of Rutherford. For more information about the Rutherford Appellation go online to the Rutherford Dust Society’s website at www.rutherforddust.org.

Macedonian Wine Renaissance, Part One

May 22, 2014 by evebushman

Dating back to antiquity, most of what is now the Republic of Macedonia was known as the Kingdom of Paeonia. The peoples who inhabited these lands were primarily of Thracian stock. In 356 BCE, Phillip ll of Macedon took control of Paeonia. Under his reign, King Phillip not only brought in Greek culture, the tradition of Greek vineyards began to thrive throughout the land. It was at this time, that an interesting melding of Thracian (Bulgaria) and Greek varietals began to be developed. Once Phillip’s son, Alexander the Great, came to the throne, these wine styles were exported throughout Alexander’s empire and the Hellenistic world.

Today I am in the capital city of Skopje with friend and fellow sommelier, Vesna Markova. We are in her favorite eatery, Cafe Crepe. From our window seats, we have a wonderful view of revelers and strollers as they enjoy a midday walk.

Besides being intensely aromatic, what is it that makes Macedonian wines so unique? First in consideration is the region itself. This part of the Balkans has the richness of its terroir, which thrives in carbonates and minerals. There is also geography. Macedonia has the influence of both Mediterranean and continental climates. Summer days are long and warm while the nights are much cooler. Macedonia also boasts an average of 270 sun-drenched days each year. Such ideal conditions contribute to the lengthy ripening of the annual grape yield.

Due to Greek and other regional influences, along with the popularity of growing international varietals, it is somewhat difficult to agree on what exactly is a varietal indigenous to Macedonia. However, aficionados of Macedonian wines are quick to agree on Zilavka and Stanushina.

For our first selection, Vesna chose a 2011 Stobi Winery Zilavka. Sourced from 100% estate vineyards, this traditional dry white wine is a classic example of Macedonia’s wine heritage. In the glass, this Zilavka is a light yellow-green that exudes with brilliance as it catches the light. On the nose, there are fruity aromas of green apple, pear, and white floral notes, which all follow through on the palate. The wine is also delicately laced with flavors of peach and spice. Over all, the 2011 Zilavka is refreshing, nicely balanced, and with moderate acidity. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a bottle price of $15.

“I think this wine is at its best when served chilled,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “45-50 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“You Americans,” Vesna teased playfully. “You prefer your drinks too cold. 50 degrees would be more appropriate.”

“Ovacii,” I toasted her. “With what dishes would you pair this Zilavka?”

“Most definitely fish and seafood,” Vesna was quick to reply.

For our next wine, Vesna selected a 2011 Stanushina Rosé from Popova Kula Winery. It is 100% Stanushina grapes from the Tikveshiya appellation. In the glass, the wine is bright rose in color with soft violet nuances. The nose is filled with fresh fruity aromas of raspberry and strawberry that follow through to the palate. The Stanushina Rosé is full-bodied and filled with fresh fruit flavors. On the back palate, a slight nuttiness is unexpected but most welcome. The finish is long, pleasurable, fresh, and fruity. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a bottle price of $12.

“With its rich fruit character, I’d definitely serve this Rosé as an aperitif,” I chuckled lightly. “Especially on warm summer days.”

“I agree, but serve it chilled,” she replied with a smile. “Right around 55 degrees Fahrenheit would be perfect.”

“And pairing?”

“I prefer to serve this Rosé as a dessert wine with fruit salads,” Vesna paused lightly and then broke into laughter. Not forgetting every girl’s dream, ice cream.”

For our next selection, Vesna chose a 2010 Tikves “Bela Voda.” The name translates as “Beautiful Water.” It is indeed a beautifully crafted wine. It is 50% Plavec and 50% Vranec. Both of these indigenous grapes are important varietals throughout the region. The Tikves Winery, whose origins date back to the 19th century, source their grapes from 35 year old vines that are grown in the Tikves region. Historically, this area has been seen as Macedonia’s most important wine growing region. The winery itself, is located where the Mediterranean climate from the south, meets the continental winds of the north. These superb wine growing conditions produce lively fruit forward wines. In the glass, is the Bela Voda is a rich dark purple. The nose is alive with vibrant aromas of dark berries, fig, and plum, all jumping out of the glass. The palate shows potent fruit flavors of concentrated blueberry, raspberry, plum, and fig. There are soft notes of chocolate with a hint of spice from spending 8 months in large oak barrels. The Bela Voda is complex, well structured, and with good tannins. The finish is enjoyable and with just a whisper of spice. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a bottle price of $21.

“I have enjoyed both Plavec and Vranec over the years,” I openly displayed my pleasure. “The Bola Voda is clearly one of the best.”

“What I like about this wine is that it is the perfect pairing with all smoked or grilled meats,” Vesna paused for effect. “Especially with Balkan dishes and cheeses.”

“What types of cheese?” I queried.

“Smoked or strong cheeses pair best.”

Our last wine, 2010 Tikves Barovo is another blend of traditional varietals. It is 50% Kratosija, which is distantly related to the Zinfandel family, and 50% Vranec. The old vine grapes are from the Tikves region and are fermented in stainless steel tanks. In the glass, the Barovo is an opaque purple in color. The nose is a bit restrained, however, with some air it opens up nicely. There are pleasant aromas of blackberry and raspberry with earthy undertones. The palate has just enough cranberry and berry fruit, with ripe citrus prevailing. The Barovo has good body, is nicely balanced, and with formidable tannins. The finish is long, a tad on the tart side, but most enjoyable. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a bottle price of $20.

“Again I was pleasantly surprised,” I flashed Vesna a wide smile.

“Agreed,” she gave me a quick nod. The Barova pairs nicely with grilled lamb and aged cheeses.”

“All this talk of food has made me hungry,” I paused lightly. “The chef is from France?

“Noeline, the owner and chef, is from Brittany.”

“Let’s order some crepes and a bottle of Stanushina.

“Rosé or the red?” Vesna was quick to ask.

“Let’s go with the red … but that my friends, is a different story …. ”

Bulgaria the Land of Wine Pioneers

May 8, 2014 by evebushman

The Balkans are an ancient land that has given rise to such heroes as Orpheus and Spartacus. Since the Iron Age, some 3500 years ago, Thracians have long dominated Bulgaria and developed it into a mighty kingdom. The Thracians, legendary warriors of antiquity, were ready, willing, and able to hold their own against any foreign threat from the surrounding kingdoms. That is until in the 4th Century BCE, when the mighty phalanxes of Alexander the Great conquered the Thracian lands, and deposed King Teres.

With the advent of Greek settlements, wines of the Agean flourished throughout the Bulgarian lowlands. Yet for centuries, the proud and noble Thracians have managed to keep their wine traditions alive. Though Bulgaria ranks among the world’s most prolific wine producers, the country is only recently finding its identity as a modern wine producing nation.

Today, we are the city of Burgos and enjoying the sandy beaches that hug the Black Sea coast. From the veranda of Sunny Beach’s Bolero Bar, we have a captivating view as the sun begins to set. Filling the evening sky with hues of magenta striated by great golden swathes, a deep purple eventually dominates, as day gives way to night.

For this wine tasting, I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Galina Vranchev. We will be sampling some of Bulgaria’s indigenous varietals along with some special blends that have found wide favor in the international wine community.

“Do keep in mind that the Bolero Bar is considered by many to represent the pinnacle of Bulgarian cuisine,” Galina openly displayed her pride. “I took the liberty of ordering some traditional hors d’oeuvres often enjoyed with our wines.”

I was immediately impressed by the dishes that were displayed before us. Watermelon wedges with Feta cheese and fresh lime leaves. Nettle and mushroom coquettes with yogurt sauce. Lyuti chushki, roasted and marinated chili peppers. Podlucheni tirvichi, fried zucchini with dill, garlic, and yogurt. And lastly, Bulgaria’s most famous salad, Shopska. The dish is comprised of tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers, parsley, onions, and Feta cheese prepared in the traditional Bulgarian style. The Shopska salad is served withy a dressing comprised of vinegar and sunflower oil accented by a blend of pepper and spices.

Mavrud is one of Bulgaria’s oldest, and definitely most popular varietals. The name comes from the Greek, macro, meaning, “black.” It is a late ripening red grape that is capable of producing tannic, spicy wines, with a potential for aging. It is also popular with Bulgarian wine makers to use Mavrud for blending. This indigenous varietal thrives in Bulgaria’s Kara Thrace region, primarily in the appellations of Asenograd, Perushitsa, Pazardzhik, Stara Zagora, and Chirpan. I am sure that by now you may be feeling a bit lost, so let’s move on to tasting the wines.

For our first selection, Galina decided on a 2003 Erigone Special Selection Mavrud. Produced by Brestovitsa Winery in the Thracian lowlands, the 2003 Mavrud has been aged between 10-12 months in Bulgarian oak. In the glass, the Erigone is deep ruby red with an almost mesmerizing sparkle. The nose is dominated by intense fruit, slightly reminiscent of blackberry, black cherries, and currants. The bouquet is accented by endearing oak nuances followed by the earthiness of the forest floor. On the palate, the wine is rich, opulent, and bursting with the flavors of black fruit, followed by both chocolate and vanilla oak notes and round tannins. The finish is long and memorable. Erigone of mythology was seduced by the god Bacchus. He did this by turning himself into a cluster of grapes. I am sure that like Bacchus, you will find this alluring wine most seductive. The alcohol content is 13% and with a bottle price of only $25.

“I was completely taken aback by the complexity of this wine,” I nodded in approval. “Wonderful bouquet as well.”

“Agreed,” Galina flashed me a wide beaming smile. “Mavrud is also very versatile and pairs nicely with most meat dishes.”

For our next selection, Galina picked 2003 Marvud & Rubin. Rubin Bolgarskii is an indigenous grape variety that was created in 1944 by the Institute of Wine and Vine in Pleven. They did this by crossing Syrah and Nebbiolo. Since it ripens early, Rubin has become quite popular throughout such European countries as Slovenia, Moldova, and Romania and is often used in blends. This is precisely what the winemakers at Brestovitsa have done with the 2003. The Mavrud & Rubin have spent 12 months aging in Bulgarian oak barrels. In the glass, its color is an intense and deep ruby red. The nose is an absolute delight. Rich in red berries, caramel, coffee, and a whisper of forest floor, all carry onto the palate. Deeply textured, velvety smooth, and a round body, the 2003 is a nicely balanced wine that presents itself quite well. The finish is long lasting and steady. The alcohol content is 13 % with a bottle price of $22.

“I am most impressed by the range of flavors from aging in Bulgarian oak,” I flashed Galina an even grin. “Most impressed.”

“Our oak is in many ways the secret of our wines,” she replied in a matter of fact tone.

“What dishes would you pair this Mavrud, Rubin blend?”

“Most all beef dishes,” Galina paused to reflect fondly. “My favorite would be Sarmi.”

“Sarmi?” I queried.

“It is a traditional Bulgarian dish of minced beef, rice, stuffed in cabbage,” she was quick to express her delight.

For our last wine, Galina selected a 2004 Cuvee Passion. Produced by the Assenovgrad Winery of central Bulgaria. The winery first opened its doors in 1947, and as of 2004, been completely renovated to meet modern international standards. Today over 65% of Assenovgrad’s wine production is exported to Western Europe, Canada, and the USA. The winery only uses the finest grapes from the Assenovgrad region. Aged 8 months in small barrels of French, American, and Bulgarian oak, this bold wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Mavrud, and Rubin. In the glass, the Cuvee Passion is a glorious deep ruby red. The nose is rich and complex, with inviting aromas of vanilla and chocolate. On the palate, the 2004 shows good fruit that has been impeccably balanced. There are also pleasant accents of cinnamon, spice, vanilla, and chocolate that round out this elegant, full bodied wine. The finish is long and lasting. The alcohol content is 12% with a bottle price of $20.

“I’ve heard that Bulgarians often serve Passion Cuvee slightly chilled.”

“That is correct,” Galina paused on the moment. “However, I prefer to serve this versatile wine at a room temperature of around 65 degrees Fahrenheit.”

It is quite clear that Bulgarian wine pioneers are making their mark on the international market. These unique wines have found their greatest popularity in Germany, the Netherlands, the Baltic States, the Czech Republic, the UK, Canada, the USA, and Vietnam.

“Vietnam? But that my friends, is a different story …. “

Sip, Swirl, Savor and Learn The Third Annual “In Your Backyard” Series Brought to you by Edible Monterey Bay and Holman Ranch January – June 2014 in the Holman Ranch Tasting Room

January 6, 2014 by evebushman

CARMEL, CA Inspired by the culinary bounty of California’s Central Coast, Holman Ranch Tasting Room, located at 19 E. Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village, is working Edible Monterey Bay to invite local culinary chefs and artisans to demonstrate how wine can be best complemented with fresh culinary products found throughout the Central Coast.

The “In Your Backyard” series brought to you by Edible Monterey Bay and Holman Ranch will have chefs and artisans sharing their tips and techniques for finding the perfect, fresh ingredients for preparing truly memorable meals, side dishes as well as understanding flavor pairings. From paella to cheese tastings, the series will showcase local experts knowledgeable on everything from how to select the best meats to creating savory pastries with ingredients from the local Farmers Market.

Each demonstration will offer recommendations for the best wine to pair with the featured culinary item.

Here is a sneak peak at our first quarter classes:
In Your Backyard 2014 Class Schedule:
·            January 23rd at 6:00 PM — Tony Baker, Montrio Bistro and Bakers Bacon, Bacon Demonstration and Tasting
Chef Tony will be doing a cooking demo on how to make Braised Baker’s Bacon, smoked Bacon Peanut Butter, Pickled Apples and Chicharrones. He will touch on cooking techniques such as Braising, Roasting, Dehydrating and Frying. Each guest will get a sample of his bacon dish and a recipe card to take home. This was the dish Chef Tony prepared at Pebble Beach Food and Wine this year. Delicious!
·            February 27th at 6:00 PM — Elena Salsedo from Sweet Elenas will teach the art of making the perfect sweet and savory morsels and what wines complement her delights. She will focus on cooking with products from the Farmers’ Market.
·            March 27th, 6:00 PM – Chef Brandon Miller, Mundaka, National Paella Day
Every cuisine has one – a one-pot meal, a peasant dish that is the quintessential definition of that place and the people. Louisiana has jambalaya. Chile has the cazuela. There’s Irish Stew and Pad Thai. And the Spanish? Well, they have Paella. March 27th is National Paella Day so let Chef Brandon take you on a culinary journey through Spain and teach you the tips and secrets of how to make traditional Spanish Paella. Sip Holman Ranch wine, learn how to make Paella and take home a recipe card so that you can create this dish for your family and friends.
·            April 29th, 6:00 PM – Schoch Family Farmstead Cheese Class
Spend an evening with Schoch Family Farmstead in an intimate class discovering and savoring seasonal, artisanal cheeses that they make on their farmstead in Monterey County. Explore the world of cheese making and pairing by tasting Schoch Family Farmstead cheeses with Holman Ranch wines. Beau Schoch will delve into the story behind each cheese, as well as give practical advice about selecting, serving, pairing, and more!

· May 20th, 6:00 PM – Quail and Olive
Learn what makes one olive oil different from another and what distinguishes extra-virgin from virgin, pure, olive oil, pomace, and others. We will teach you what you need to look for! Similarly, we will dispel the myths surrounding “balsamic” vinegar, a category that is almost entirely misunderstood.

· June 18th, 6:00 PM — John Cox from Post Ranch and Alan Lovewell with Local Catch. Spend the evening with Chef John Cox and Alan Lovewell with Local Catch. John Cox is the executive chef at the highly acclaimed Sierra Mar restaurant at Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur, Calif. Chef Cox believes in blending bold, primal flavors along with fresh, locally sourced ingredients and his passion can be experienced each night at Sierra Mar.

Alan Lovewell – Co-founder and Manager. Alan grew up on the small island of Martha’s Vineyard. Surrounded by water he quickly learned to swim, dive, sail and fish for fun and for work. Stories of the wild and expansive Pacific brought Alan to Santa Cruz in 2000 to pursue an undergraduate degree at UCSC. After graduating, he headed south to teach sailing on the Sea of Cortez with the National Outdoor Leadership School. He returned a couple years later to study Marine Policy at the Monterey Institute of International Studies. Alan has spent time working with The Nature Conservancy and Conservation International in Indonesia. Most recently he was a Sea Grant Fellow with The West Coast Governors Alliance for Ocean Health at NOAA’s Northwest Fisheries Science Center and Southwest Fisheries Science Center. Alan develops new strategies, programs, and partnerships that keep oceans, people and stomachs happy.

Reservations are required for all classes and cost for each event is $25 per person. Classes are $10 for wine club members. This includes the class, wine tasting, small bites, and meeting, learning and sampling from a local artisan. A portion of the class proceeds will benefit the Alzheimer’s Association. To make reservations call 831-659-2640 or email info@holmanranch.com.

Holman Ranch’s Carmel Valley Village Tasting Room is the perfect backdrop to swirl, sip and savor the different complexities of Holman Ranch Vineyard and Winery wines while learning about the culinary bounty available in your own backyard. The tasting room is open daily from 11:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. and is available for private events.

About Holman Ranch Vineyard and Winery:
Located at the north eastern tip of the Carmel Valley Appellation, the family-owned Holman Ranch resides approximately 12 miles inland from the Pacific Coast. Immersed in history and romance, the ranch has not only proven to be an excellent growing location for our vineyards but also for the Tuscan varietal olive trees which have flourished under the temperate climate. Holman Ranch estate-grown wine varietals are planted on approximately 19 acres of undulating terrain. The wines produced are unfined and crafted to deliver the true varietal of the grape from harvest to bottle. The climate and terroir of the appellation has played a critical part in the success of their wines. The warmth of the inland valley coupled with the cooling marine layer has proven to be an ideal microclimate for the production of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The vineyards’ Burgundy Clones have thrived from the perfect blend of ideal climate, southern exposure and thin rocky soils.

The estate wines of Holman Ranch include: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Rosé of Pinot Noir. Carefully hand-harvested, cold pressed and bottled, the Extra Virgin Olive Oil produced from the fruits of our trees has a delightfully distinctive flavor.

Holman Ranch: Where the Past is Always Present. Tucked away in the rolling hills of Carmel Valley, historic Holman Ranch provides a unique and memorable setting for weddings, special events, family gatherings, corporate retreats, and team-building events. With its charming gardens, stunning mountain views and serenity, this private estate affords old-world charm while providing modern day conveniences. This stunning property includes a fully restored stone hacienda, overnight guest rooms, vineyards, olive grove, horse stables and more. www.holmanranch.com

About Edible Monterey Bay
Founded in 2011, Edible Monterey Bay produces a beautiful quarterly magazine and weekly email newsletter celebrating the local food cultures of Monterey, Santa Cruz and San Benito Counties, season by season. It also promotes local and sustainable regional food cultures through outstanding food and wine-themed events. For more information, go to www.ediblemontereybay.com or call (831) 298-7117.

Rhone Master Class with Jean-Luc “Not Stupid” Colombo 

September 20, 2013 by evebushman

Granted, it was a wee bit difficult for some to get past winemaker Jean-Luc Colombo’s heavily accented-English. The one word I did pick up, which peppered most of his one-hour lecture, was “stupid.” When I laughed out loud at one of his stories, detailing a wine practice he thought was stupid, I got a smile back from the master, as I may have been the only one that got his jest.

www.LearnAboutWine.com founder Ian Blackburn opened the session by explaining that we would taste nine wines that are distributed by Southern Wine and Spirits. Blackburn said that Colombo was originally a pharmacist – which alters how he thinks about organics and biodynamics; i.e. bees, flowers and animals are integrated into his vineyard practices in the small appellation region of Cornas.

Colombo began by thanking Blackburn and his own team. Then he explained a little of his own history: his wife was also a pharmacist but Colombo wanted to go to the Rhone Valley and learn about Cornas. He made his first wine, a single vineyard 100% Syrah. Cornas is a “sleepy town”, then and now, but now it’s known for its wines.

“Food and wine is not a business, it’s a lifestyle,” Colombo said. “It’s a shame to drink only water so it’s our job to educate people on food and wine.”

Colombo mentioned that they don’t use any pesticides in their vineyards. “People today talk too much about biodynamic or organic – it’s stupid – as it’s normal not to use pesticide. If you are a cancer patient in the hospital you never ask if your medicine is organic or not!”

Colombo continued, “If you don’t have a good climate you don’t make wine” as irrigation shouldn’t be needed. “Paying for water is completely stupid. For 2000 years (of winemaking) there was no irrigation…the more you talk about organic the more you are killing your vineyard. Then there will be no car wash (businesses) as there will be no water. Maybe one day we will say stop irrigation or stop organic. The great wines are made without irrigation…”

And, as we were about to begin the tasting Colombo reminded, or as I like to think, admonished us by saying, “Wine is for the table (with food) not a cocktail. A Cabernet or Merlot (or any wine) at 7 pm without food is not normal” to which I thoroughly agreed!

Now onto the wines of Jean-Luc Colombo!

In this tasting – all wines were about 13% alcohol

(Tasting Notes in parenthesis were provided by Colombo)

‘La Redonne’ Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2011 (70% Viognier, 30% Roussanne)

Sweet pineapple, freshly mown grass, wet gravel, lemon, sweet jasmine floral notes on the nose…full mouth viscosity, lemon-lime soda, citrus fruits – grapefruit, medium acid. (Tasting notes included stainless steel fermentation which may account for the gravel notes.)

‘Amour de Dieu’ Condrieu 2100 (100% Viognier)

On the nose I was greeted by honey, sweet pink lemonade, pineapple, honeydew melon, dried apricots…on the mouth lemonade with honey, nice mouthfeel, some acidity and lingering finish. (Tasting notes mention the same apricot.)

‘La Belle de Mai’ Saint-Peray 2011 (80% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne)

Cinnamon, apricot, anise…followed by a dry palate, less fruit forward than the first two, green apple, spice, more balanced and very interesting. (Tasting notes mention limestone, granite…and intense floral aromas.)

‘Les Forots’ Cotes du Rhone 2010 (100% Syrah)

Plums, blackberry, black cherry, green peppercorns, stewing mushrooms, seared steak…followed by a taste of dried plums, stems, tannins and pepper. (Tasting notes also mention blackberry.)

‘Les Bartavelles’ Chateauneuf du Pape 2011 (45% Syrah, 35% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre)

Ripe black cherries, black currant, dark chocolate on the nose…on the mouth bright fruit, pepper, good spice balanced fruit and tannins, palate-drying. (Tasting notes called it exotic spice.)

‘La Divine’ Cote Rotie 2010 (95% Syrah, 5% Viognier)

Blackberry jam, very concentrated red and blue fruits, dusty, black pepper…followed by a less fruity taste, chewy, dark fruit, more smoke and tannins, very palatable.

‘Terres Brulees’ Cornas 2010 (100% Syrah)

Aromas of a kitchen filled with cooking vegetables, stew, steaks grilling, maybe someone brought some chocolate and a bouquet of velvety dark roses…and tastes of ripened blue fruits, black pepper, soil, and unsweetened dark chocolate.

‘Le Ruchets’ Cornas 2010 (100% Syrah)

Dark fruit, mint, cigar, chocolate, figs…smells good. On the palate smoky fruit, cigar and bark.

“La Louvee” Cornas 2010 (100% Syrah) Translates to “She Wolf”

Sweet hot chocolate, cinnamon, spice rack, roasted meat, blue and black fruits…on the mouth: dried plums, black pepper and green pepper, that same roasted meat.

www.VinsColombo.fr

Sancerre “Sacred to Caesar”

September 5, 2013 by evebushman

From the Medieval hilltop town of Sancerre, we have an incredible view overlooking the Loire River. This is the ancestral homeland of antiquity’s powerful Gaullic Celtic tribe, the Bituriges, “The Kings of the World.” After their defeat at the hands of Julius Caesar, a temple was built on a nearby hillside in the Imperator’s (victorious general) honor. Many historians and anthropologists lend credence that the temple’s name, “Sacred to Caesar,” eventually developed into the name, Sancerre. Once the Romans dominated the land, they saw to it that the Loire Valley was cultivated for farming and of course, vineyards. This is a fabled land with a long history and filled rich in viticulture.

Today, I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Ivelisse Negroni. We are in Sancerre to share with our readers, one of our favorite summer wines, Sauvignon Blanc. Sancerre is synonymous with this aromatic and crisp wine that is punctuated with herbal notes and mineral nuances. What separates the grapes of Loire from other appellations throughout the world is its smoky gunflint character. The local people refer to this as “pierre a fusil.” This distinctive aroma can only be found in grapes cultivated throughout eastern Loire. While less fruit-driven than many of the modern styles of Sauvignon Blanc, there is just enough fruit to compliment the wine’s acidity and minerality.

Ivelisse selected Domaine Thomas & Fils Le Crele 2011. In the glass, it is pale yellow with a glimmer of green. On the nose, the bouquet is filled with ample aromas of wildflowers, herbs, and grapefruit. On the palate, our wine is lively and vibrant, showing a lot of character. It has just the right amount of fruitiness to compliment the wine’s high acidity and minerality that I found mouth-watering. The finish is feisty and lingering. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“This is a wine that is lively, yet balanced nicely,” Ivelisse openly displayed her pleasure.

“This is one I would enjoy sipping on the veranda with a light supper.”

“Since it is a zesty wine, I would pair it with grilled salmon and a salad with tangy goat cheese,” said lightly as she continued to sip her wine.

“I would also pair it with lemon chicken.’

“Lemon chicken reminds me of one of your old girlfriends,” Ivelisse giggled under her breath.

“Let’s not go there,” I was quick to reply. “What is our next wine?”

Henri Bourgeois Le Mont Damnes de Bourgeois 2008 is a pale straw color in the glass. On the nose, it is powerful and flinty with a noticeable citrus character. The bouquet is a definite expression of the stony character of the soil. On the palate it is powerful and with an intensity that captivates. The citrus flavors slowly break through and add an intensity of this taut wine. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $40.

“Since this is a powerful wine, when pairing, you want to match the intensity of flavors,” Ivelisse paused lightly. “I would stay with spicy Asian dishes or foods seasoned with herbs.”

“What about cheeses?” I queried?

“With this wine, as with most Sancerre, I would select goat’s milk cheeses,” she was quick to smile.” “My first choices would be Crotin de Chaignol and Chevre.”

Our next selection, Domaine Fouassier Melodie de Gustave Fouassier 2009 is made from 100% Sauvignon grapes from vines that are over 40 years old. The grapes have been fermented in French oak barrels and the wine is aged on the lees for 10 months. In the glass, it is light gold in color. The nose is filled with the complexity of white fruits that prevail while woody notes accent the bouquet. On the palate, it is full-bodied, revealing a marked expression of dried fruit. The wine is accented with creamy notes of vanilla and butter, with just a whisper lemon and green plums. This is a rich opulent wine with a long and memorable finish. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $35.

“I would serve the Melodie with spicy dishes,” Ivelisse paused to collect her thoughts. “I would also chill it at 57 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“The Melodie would definitely go nicely with some spicy prawns.”

“I wasn’t quite sure how you would respond to this wine,” she paused lightly. “I was hesitant because I thought you would find the wine a bit too creamy for your palate.”

“I would just chill it a bit more,” I flashed her a playful grin.

Our last wine,Domaine Vacheron Les Roamains 2008 reminded me that Sancerre was once a Roman stronghold. In the glass, this organic/biodynamic wine is a pleasing straw yellow. The nose is saturated with lush, juicy aromas of sautéed pears and honeysuckle blossoms. On the palate, it is well structured and filled with an array of exotic fruits. What makes this Sancerre is its intense and stony minerality. The finish is long and dry, with just the right amount of zing. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $50.

“With your penchant for history, I knew you would at least approve of the name,” Ivelisse broke out into laughter.

“Well done, indeed,” I openly displayed my pleasure. “I particularly enjoyed the wine’s explosive nose. With what foods would you serve Les Romains?”

“I would most definitely pair it with shellfish or trout,” she replied.

“And what cheese?”

“Definitely a Pouligny Saint Pierre, she added with a quick nod, knowing full well my preference for goat cheese.

“Great! Let’s order some cheese and a bucket of clams.”

“Just one bucket?” She flashed me a wide beaming smile as we both broke out into uncontrollable laughter.

“But that my friends, is another story …”