Eve Gets Her Zinfandel On…At Elevating Zin 2019

June 14, 2019 by evebushman

Michael Perlis and I are both big Zinfandel wine fans. Don’t get us wrong though, we love almost all varietals and our choices are completely dependent on what we are eating or the occasion. If the lesson is Rhones we’re there, Burgundy sometimes, Bordeaux varietals is pretty much a yes, and Zinfandel…well that just takes our collective breaths away. Big, bold, dusty and filled with mature dark fruit and tannins, our palates had been watering for weeks before we attended the latest Elevating Zin event produced again by Ian Blackburn for WineLA.com.

The Turley table pouring for Michael Perlis and Juan Alonso.

Below is the complete list of wines and wineries that were offered. The wines that were my favorites are noted in italics, my notes are in parenthesis and asterisks denote faves of the day. Look for Michael’s article on this website as well. Curious as it may appear, we don’t always love the same Zins, so it’s worth a look to read us both! Your palate may be just like one of ours. (Just want photos? Go here.)

Wine List (Most of the wineries, if not all, were delightfully represented by the winemaker and/or owner.)

Beekeeper Cellars

(These are Ian’s wines and always a favorite for me.)

Zinfandel, Secret Stones, Rockpile, Sonoma County 2016*

Zinfandel, Montecillo Vineyard, Sonoma County 2016*

Brown Estate

Zinfandel, Brown Estate, Chiles Valley, 2017*

Zinfandel Red Blend – Merlot, Zin, Petite Sirah, Napa, 2016*

Rosemary’s Block Zin – Zinfandel, Brown Estate, Chiles Valley, 2017

Chiles Valley Zinfandel – Zinfandel Brown Estate, Chiles Valley 2017*

Elyse Winery

(All wines are held 5 years.)

Zinfandel, Korte Ranch Vineyard, Saint Helena, 2013

Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, 2013*

Frank Family Vineyards

Zinfandel, Napa 2016

Kreck

(A new winery and a new favorite for me.)

Old Vine Zinfandel, Teldeschi Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, 2016*

Old Vine Zinfandel, Del Barba Vineyard, Contra Costa County, 2016*

Martinelli Winery

Zinfandel, Vellutini Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2016*

Zinfandel, Vigneto di Evo, Russian River Valley, 2016 (I missed this one.)

Zinfandel, Giuseppe & Luisa, Russian River Valley, 2016*

Mauritson Wines

(Been a fan since Michael introduced me to Clay Mauritson’s wines years ago)

Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, 2017*

Zinfandel, Rockpile Ridge Vineyard, Rockpile, 2016*

Zinfandel, Rockpile Ridge Vineyard, Rockpile 2017*

Zinfandel, Jack’s Cabin Vineyard, Rockpile, 2017*

Portalupi Winery

(The winery also makes a Barbera and Charbono that I hope to review in the near future.)

Old Vine Zinfandel, Dolinsek Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2016

Old Vine Zinfandel, Reserve, Dolinsek Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2016

Old Vine Zinfandel, Dolinsek Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2017

Old Vine Zinfandel, Reserve, Dolinsek Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2017*

Ridge Vineyards

(Loved the addition of Petite Sirah and Alicante Bouschet in the 2016.)

68% Zin, 18% Carignane, 12% Petite Sirah, 2% Alicante Bouschet, Geyserville, Alexander Valley, 2017

Zinfandel, East Bench, Dry Creek Valley, 2017

88% Zinfandel, 9% Petite Sirah, 3% Alicante Bouschet, Pagani Ranch, Sonoma Valley, 2016*

Robert Biale Vineyards

(Another winery Michael turned me onto.)

Black Chicken Zinfandel, Napa Valley, 2017

Stagecoach Vineyard Zinfandel, Napa Valley, 2017*

Turley Wine Cellars

(Interesting to me that it was the two Turleys I was unfamiliar with that were my favorites – from Lodi and Amador County.)

Zinfandel, Juvenile, California, 2017

Zinfandel, Kirschenmann Vineyard, Lodi, 2017*

Zinfandel, Buck Cobb Vineyard, Amador County, 2017*

Zinfandel, Dusi Vineyard, Paso Robles, 2017

William Selym

(Most of us are familiar with their Pinot Noirs, was a treat to try their Zins.)

Papera Vineyard Zinfandel, Russian River Valley 2017

Fanucchi – Wood Road Zinfandel, Russian River Valley 2017

Zialena

Zinfandel, Estate, Alexander Valley, 2016

Zinfandel, Estate, Alexander Valley, 2015 Reserve*

Zinfandel, Estate, Alexander Valley, 2014 Reserve

Zinfandel, Estate, Alexander Valley, 2013 Reserve

(Please forgive me for missing these two wineries listed below = palate fatigue.)

Bella Vineyards and Wine Caves

Dry Creek Zinfandel, 2016

Big River Ranch Zinfandel, 2015

Barrel 32 Zinfandel, 2016

Seghesio Family Vineyards

Zinfandel, Home Ranch Vineyard, Alexander Valley, 2015

Zinfandel, Cortina, Dry Creek Valley, 2015

Zinfandel, Old Vine, Sonoma County, 2015

Zinfandel, Mariah Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge, 2017

(* faves of the day)

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Perlis Picks: Mauritson

December 22, 2018 by Michael Perlis

“Sense of place” is often bandied about in conversations about wine. Wines should not only be delicious but they should reflect their terroir – where they are from and the conditions unique to the vintage. The Rockpile AVA in Sonoma County is one of our favorite sources of wines that epitomize where they are from. Located at the far western end of the Dry Creek Valley, for me the wines (especially Zinfandels) from this area make me think of a combination of the power of Paso Robles with the complexity of the Russian River Valley.

So, when Clay Mauritson, in response to my inquiry about Karen and me visiting with him at his namesake winery during harvest, suggested that we spend the morning out in Rockpile to get grape samples, that sounded pretty exciting to us.

Mauritson is not too far from the entry to the Dry Creek Valley just west of Healdsburg. We met Clay there at 8 AM and headed west to Rockpile. Along the way Clay told us about some of the area’s history and the impact that Clay’s family has had on it.

Clay’s family emigrated from Sweden. Clay told us that “they settled in the Rockpile area of Dry Creek Valley and began growing grapes immediately, circa 1868. In 1884 my great, great, great, grandfather attempted to export wine back to his homeland of Sweden.” The homestead and ranch had grown to about 4,000 acres until 1968 when the Army Corps of Engineers acquired 3,300 acres of the land owned by the Mauritson family by virtue of eminent domain due to the perceived need to build a dam, thereby creating Lake Sonoma. Clay said, “When we lost the Rockpile property, my grandparents purchased the ranch in Alexander Valley where they continued growing grapes. The Rockpile property was used for livestock: sheep and cattle, but we did not resume growing grapes there until 1998.” But it wasn’t until Clay returned from college and worked in the winemaking industry in the area that he made the decision that the Mauritson name should actually be on wine bottle labels as the winery. The Mauritson winery was officially born with the release of its first vintage in 1998. The modern winery and tasting room was opened in 2004.

It didn’t take long for Clay to revisit the Rockpile area and realize its potential for making great wine. The Mauritson Rockpile Zinfandels are some of my all-time favorites. Rockpile was granted official AVA status in 2002, due primarily to the efforts of Clay’s dad Thom along with Rod Park and Jack Florence Sr.

Clay also discussed how happy he was with the current 2018 harvest. The growing season had been virtually perfect. Sometimes near the end of the growing season, the threat of impending heat spikes or rain could impact when the grapes are picked. Not this year. The grapes only needed to be picked when they were ready to be picked. Clay said that they test the grapes early and often at Mauritson, so they can plan the optimal picking window. He explained you can do a lot of things at the winery but you “can’t change the flavors” – those happen in the vineyard.

Walking the vineyards with Clay as he pulled samples to take back to the winery for testing, I felt a new appreciation for an AVA that has always been at the top of my list of favorites. And since I wanted to play “winery helper” and carry the buckets that Clay was filling, I also felt a greater appreciation for the hard work that happens in the vineyard, especially those steep ones in Rockpile. I am sure that Clay would have finished sooner without me, but my excuse is that I am 63 and out of shape while Clay is 20+ years younger and still looks like he did in his football playing days at Oregon.

We spent a couple of hours in the vineyards and I admittedly weenied out and let Clay walk at least one of them alone. But now it was time to head back to the winery and taste some wine.

While when I think of Mauritson I automatically think of Zinfandel, I soon found out those aren’t the only varietals that Clay is making, and making well, I might add.

We tasted through several wines:

2017 Mauritson Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley – I really liked the richness of this wine.

2017 Mauritson Chardonnay, Alexander Valley

2016 Charlie Clay Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley – Clay makes this with/for renowned Chef Charlie Palmer; the only wine he makes with purchased grapes.

2015 Mauritson Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley – Excellent in its own right, this was a great lead-in for the Rockpile wines…

2016 Rockpile Zinfandel, Rockpile Ridge Vineyard

2016 Rockpile Zinfandel, Cemetery Vineyard

2016 Rockpile Zinfandel, Pritchett Peaks Vineyard

All three of these wines were excellent representations of what Rockpile is known for.

We also tasted three more wines from Rockpile:

2016 Rockpile “Madrone Spring” blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah

2015 Rockpile “Buck Pasture” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc.

2015 Rockpile Cabernet Sauvignon, Rockpile Ridge Vineyard

All of these showcased the intensity of the Rockpile fruit.

Whew. Clay makes a lot of wines and we didn’t even taste all of them. But, as an added bonus we got to taste one of the wines from Clay’s single soil Cabernet series, which focuses on producing Cab from four distinct soil types. We had the 2014 Clough and it was outstanding.

Something else to consider: Annually in August, Clay Mauritson and Chef Charlie Palmer co-host the Project Zin event in Healdsburg. This is a gathering of winemakers and chefs to benefit Down Syndrome Association North Bay. The winery lineup is Zinfandel heaven and August now looks like a pretty good time to visit the area.

You’ll find that several wineries make wine from Rockpile grapes – some even own vineyards in Rockpile and other just purchase grapes from the area – and you’d be hard pressed to find wine from this AVA that you won’t like. But I heartily recommend that you at least start your enjoyment of Rockpile wines with the family that had so much to do with putting Rockpile on the map in the first place – Mauritson.

Mauritson

2859 Dry Creek Road
Healdsburg, CA 95448

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Jaxon Keys Winery

December 1, 2018 by Michael Perlis

Karen and I were planning to revisit Santa Rosa / Sonoma County just a little over a year removed from our last ill-fated visit.

While working on scheduling appointments, I started thinking that maybe last time turned out the way it did because we were somehow being punished for not visiting our good friend and extremely talented winemaker Antoine Favero. I jest, of course, but I wasn’t going to take any chances either. Besides, we hadn’t seen Antoine in a couple of years so meeting up with him seemed like a great idea regardless.

We’d visited with Antoine a couple of times at Mazzocco in the Dry Creek Valley where the focus is on Zinfandel – and incredible Zins they are. But knowing that Antoine makes the wine for some of the other wineries in the Wilson Artisan Wines family, we asked him where else we might meet. Antoine suggested either Jaxon Keys for Rhone varietals or Soda Rock for Bordeaux varietals.

As Rhone varietals are right up there with Zins as my favorite grapes, I naturally said: “Jaxon Keys, please.”

Jaxon Keys Winery is at the southern end of Mendocino County. Lest you think that is far, the drive took less than an hour from our home base for this trip in Santa Rosa. Driving north on Highway 101, we passed Healdsburg and the northern edge of Sonoma County and found ourselves in the foothills of Mendocino County, then passing a few other wineries before arriving at our destination.

We met with Antoine in the private tasting lounge in the winery itself, separate from the tasting room. The lounge also houses the distillery but more on this later.

As Antoine knew that we were interested in focusing on the Rhone varietals that he makes at Jaxon Keys he set up a great sampling of what he does there with those.

We started with the 2017 Viognier, which we felt was a delicious take on this varietal, free from the mistake [in my opinion] that winemakers often make with Viognier – residual sugar. None here and we got to experience a clean, dry wine with plenty of fruit.

Then we moved on to the red Rhones.

We started with the 2016 Grenache, a tasty lighter style of this grape and perfect way to segue to the…

2016 Syrah – Antoine said that it’s the best Syrah he’s every worked with and that sure showed in the glass. My note just says “wow”.

We finished with a very interesting wine: the 2016 GPS is a blend of Grenache, Primitivo and Syrah. I’ve never tasted this particular blend anywhere else and I doubt if you have either. It turns out they work really well together.

While we tasted, Karen and I had the opportunity to chat with Antoine about the winery. The Wilsons acquired the property in 2009. Before that it had a long history, most recently as Jepson Winery, which you may have heard of. The Wilsons renamed it Jaxon Keys Winery & Distillery, after Ken Wilson’s grandfathers. Total acreage is about 1200, with about 100 acres planted. Production is entirely Estate at about 2500 cases. Antoine said that like many small wineries that own vineyards, much of the grape crop is sold to other wineries. Antoine took over winemaking and vineyard management duties at Jaxon Keys fairly recently and has found an ongoing challenge as the wines become popular to balance the needs of other wineries that purchase the grapes with making sure that there is enough wine for retail customers and club members.

Since we were sitting next to the historic still, it seemed proper to finish our tasting with some brandy. Renowned [and now primarily retired] distiller Hubert Germain-Robin consults on this side of the business and the brandy is made in a historic Alambic Pot still from Cognac, France using primarily the French Columbard grapes grown on the property. We tasted through three levels of brandy [5-7 years old, 7-10 years old, and 15 years and older]. I enjoy brandy but admittedly have little expertise in it. But this stuff was smooth and tasty. They also make some very high-end bottlings as well.

Our visit with Antoine was coming to a close; it was harvest and he needed to get back to his real work. He introduced us to Jessie in the tasting room because I really wanted to taste the Jaxon Keys Zinfandels. Admittedly, we had come for the Rhones but I am the Zinfan after all. Besides, I already knew that Antoine’s Zins are legendary regardless of the label on the bottle.

Of course, I wasn’t disappointed. Especially delicious were the 2016 Mae’s Block Zinfandel and the 2016 Brandy Barrel Aged Zinfandel. We bought some of each as well as that Viognier we had tasted earlier. We wanted to buy the other wines that we had tasted with Antoine, but he had apparently shared with us what were pretty much the last bottles available of these wines. That’s what happens with great small-production wines. We can’t wait to try the next vintage.

A comment about pricing, which I rarely discuss. I believe a wine should stand on its own, regardless of what it costs. I don’t feel it is up to me to opine on the business model of a winery. That being said, I need to say that these wines are remarkably underpriced for wines of this quality. When I expressed that opinion to Jessie in the tasting room, she said “Welcome to Mendocino County.” Indeed.

Jaxon Keys Winery & Distillery
10400 South Hwy 101
Hopland, CA 95449

What and Where is the Wine Road?

August 5, 2018 by evebushman

Founded 41 years ago, Wine Road is an association of wineries and lodgings in the Alexander, Dry Creek, and Russian River valleys of Northern Sonoma County. From its modest beginning as an organization of nine wineries, it has grown into a spirited constellation of nearly 200 wineries and 54 lodgings. Wine Road is an indispensible resource guiding visitors and locals alike through the scenic bi-ways and backroads of the three valleys, and points the way to the fine wine and exquisite cuisine of the region.

Winding through some of the most picturesque wine country in California, Wine Road takes visitors on an exciting journey of natural beauty, superb tasting experiences, and memorable personal encounters with the state’s most devoted winemakers. Even for travelers already well acquainted with California wine country, Wine Road is likely to be uncharted territory–sure to imbue a fresh sense of discovery. Along the way are some of California’s oldest wineries, run by vintners whose commitment to tending the vines and producing world-class wines, true to the appellation, runs back generations.

Wine Road is also where modern, state-of-the-art wineries co-exist with small, artisanal producers for whom making wine is a way of life intertwined with the responsibilities of home and family. From Italian-style villas and French-style chateaux to boutique wineries, Wine Road provides a colorful glimpse into the world of winemaking. This is what makes traversing Wine Road a uniquely personal experience, and visitors will find their own enthusiasm for great wine reflected in the appreciation of these passionate producers.

This lively and committed organization has created a myriad of programs, events, and services certain to enhance any visitor’s experience of the region. The association hosts three celebrated wine events throughout the year: Winter WINEland in January; Barrel Tasting in March; and Wine and Food Affair in November, all of which bring thousands of visitors to the region.

For additional information, or to request a free map, visit www.wineroad.com, call 800.723.6336 or via e-mail at info@wineroad.com. Keep up with Wine Road on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram.

Perlis Picks: Elevating Zinfandel

June 30, 2018 by Michael Perlis

You may ask…why does Zinfandel need to be “elevated”?

It wasn’t that long ago that Zinfandel was thought of either as a sweet pink wine made for mass consumption or as a highly alcoholic monster meant to get you where you want to go as quickly as possible.

Neither version was taken very seriously.

But in more recent years, Zinfandel has been produced as a serious wine, producing wines equal to or better than those made from the historically “noble grapes”. With wonderful wines made in a variety of styles, Zinfandel has certainly found its place in the wine world, which makes this “zin fan” very happy.

Still, there is some prejudice, as was evidenced by a seminar I attended several months ago wherein the speaker, discussing the wines coming from a particular region, expressed delight over the reduced reliance on Zinfandel, the clear message, at least to me, was to imply that it was of lesser quality.

The struggle is real.

As I mentioned above, Zinfandel wines can vary quite a bit, due to terroir, winemaker decisions both in the vineyard and the winery, as well as whether the wine is 100% Zinfandel versus including other varieties. My own observation is that Zinfandel vineyards, perhaps more so than those planted with other grapes, tend to be inter-planted with other varietals, especially when looking at the historic vineyards that were planted several decades ago.

This is all a build-up to an annual event that is very near and dear to my heart, WineLA’s annual Elevating Zinfandel tasting, this year held at the Montage in Beverly Hills. Karen and I had the pleasure of attending.

As usual, Ian Blackburn assembled a veritable “who’s who” of many of the great Zinfandel producers, mostly from Northern California:

Rafanelli Winery

Bedrock Wine Co.

Beekeeper Cellars

Bella Vineyards and Wine Caves

Brown Estate Napa Valley

Gamba Vineyards and Winery

Grgich Hills Estate

Hendry Winery

Kreck Wines

Lamborn Family Vineyards

Mauritson Wines

Quivera Vineyards

Rock Wall Wine Company

Seghesio Family Vineyards

T-Vine Winery

Turley Wine Cellars

Williams Selyem

Wonderment Wines

Each winery had a winery representative [winemaker or owner in most cases] pouring multiple wines, including special selections for VIP attendees.

[I’ll say it again – spring for VIP tickets for events when you can. Get in early, taste the special stuff, enjoy the food and beat the crowds.]

No duds in this list at all. Some of the standouts for me were…

Bedrock Wine Co. – This winery is on our must-have list for our personal cellar.

It was fun to taste the 2012 Bedrock Heritage Wine against the 2016 Bedrock Heritage Wine. This is one of those field blends I was referring to above, with the Bedrock vineyard actually planted to 27 varieties, about 50% being Zinfandel.

Beekeeper Cellars – This is WineLA’s own Ian Blackburn’s winery. But, I don’t have to say I liked it if I didn’t. And I did, especially the 2015 Secret Stones from Rockpile. Rockpile is one of my favorite AVAs for Zinfandel, so no big surprise here.

Kreck Wines – A brand new winery based in Healdsburg. Both the 2016 Teldeschi Vineyard (Dry Creek Valley) and the Del Barba Vineyard (Contra Costa County) were excellent. Tiny production, so don’t snooze on this one.

Lamborn Family Vineyards – Napa Valley Zins are getting rare [the money’s in Cabernet] and Howell Mountain Zinfandel are perhaps even rarer. Lamborn does a great job and the 2010 Middle-Aged Vine bottling showed what a little bottle age on a Zin can do – good stuff!

Mauritson Wines – Speaking of Rockpile [see above], Clay Mauritson’s family has been a big part of pioneering the area. The 2015 Black Sheep from Rockpile was a great example.

Robert Biale Vineyards – another rare Napa Zinfandel specialist. Winemaker Tres Goetting continues to shine; the signature Black Chicken did it for me.

Rock Wall Wine Company – it had been a few years since we last saw Shauna Rosenblum and if anything her wines have just gotten better. Hard to pick a favorite here, but if pressed I’d go with the 2016 Alegria Vineyard from the Russian River Valley.

Turley Wine Cellars – Another winery that will always have a place in our cellar, Turley has possibly done more than any other winery to “elevate” Zinfandel. Christina Turley poured four different wines, but I have to give props to the 2016 Dusi Vineyard. Not only was this the only Zin from Paso Robles being poured, but it is typically our favorite of the Turley lineup.

Williams Selyem – Most people think of Pinot Noir when they think of this winery. But winemaker Mark Malpiede also makes great Zinfandel. Especially liked the 2016 Papera Vineyard [Russian River Valley].

As usual, we didn’t taste everything. If we had, we would have had more favorites, I’m sure.

Check out www.winela.com for other great events from WineLA.

PERLIS PICKS: The Week That Wasn’t – Part Two

October 21, 2017 by Michael Perlis

Karen’s knee injury meant that we had to head home. We did get to spend one night at one of our favorite hotels anywhere. Vintners Inn in Santa Rosa offers a great wine country experience with outstanding rooms, excellent dining and an on-site vineyard to stroll through. We had to skip the vineyard stroll and our dining was limited to the room-service burgers we ordered [which were excellent by the way]. Hotel staff was caring and accommodating; and we were very grateful under the circumstances to be able to switch from an upstairs room to a downstairs one with no trouble at all.

VINTNERS INN As we sadly had to hit the road the next morning, we were already planning our next, hopefully extended, stay.

This week, I want to share with you the places we had planned on visiting. We had done a lot of research and planning, so we know these places will be on our list for our next trip back up to Northern California.

In Santa Rosa, we were planning on spending a few days at Vintners Inn. While there, we had a few winery visits planned.

In the Dry Creek Valley, my favorite wines from Mauritson Wines are Clay Mauritson’s outstanding Zinfandels and Petite Sirahs. Bella Vineyards was on our list as well for its great Zins.

During our last trip to Sonoma County, we visited Jake Bilbro’s Limerick Lane winery. Jake has two brothers who also make wine. Sam Bilbro’s Idlewild specializes in Italian varietals while the winery that started it all in the Bilbro family, Marietta Cellars is now under the care of Scot Bilbro.

While in the area, we were looking forward to return dining experiences at Healdsburg SHED and Café Lucia.

Heading south to San Francisco, we had booked our stay at Hotel Diva, great looking hotel within walking distance to Chinatown and couple of restaurants we wanted to check out: La Marsa and Bota.

The last leg of our trip was going to be on the Monterey Peninsula. We were really looking forward to our stay at the Monterey Bay Inn.

White Monterey County is known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, we had planned on visiting two wineries that did not fall into these categories.

Pierce Ranch Vineyards is known for Portuguese and Spanish varietals, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Rhones.

In addition, we had not visited Boete Winery in many years and were really looking forward to their Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

There are lots of great dining choices on the Peninsula. Fifi’s Bistro Café in Pacific Grove is an old favorite, Passionfish is legendary and we were excited to try a new find for us – Jeninni. Not to mention the grilled oysters at Monterey’s Fish House.

We’re looking forward to Karen healing from her injury and heading back up to really report on all of this for our Eve’s Wine 101 readers. At least this time we won’t have to do a lot of advance research.

Perlis Picks: Mazzocco Sonoma

June 24, 2017 by Michael Perlis

When we last visited winemaker Antoine Favero at Mazzocco Sonoma, he made the gracious offer of taking us to visit a vineyard or two on our next visit.

Not one to forget that kind of opportunity, I checked with Antoine as we planned our upcoming Dry Creek Valley trip. I almost expected him to be too busy, as he is not only winemaker for Mazzocco but also for Jaxon Keys and Soda Rock, as well as sharing winemaking duties with Diane Wilson at deLorimier. But Antoine was true to his word and suggested an excursion to Rockpile.

Antoine Favero of Mazzocco Sonoma Winery at Rockpile Ranch

I’ve loved wines from the Rockpile AVA for some time and have always considered it a very special place, but have never visited, until now. I was surprised to learn that this area only obtained its official AVA status in 2002, as it seems like I’ve been drinking Rockpile wines for longer than that.

That being said, Karen and I hopped into the Wilson Artisan Wineries tour bus and, with Antoine at the wheel, we drove to the far western reaches of the Dry Creek Valley and into the Rockpile AVA.

Our first stop was Florence Ranch. Antoine, who gets grapes from this vineyard, explained that Jack Florence Sr. was one of the growers who helped to spearhead the recognition of the Rockpile AVA. The AVA is over 15,000 acres, but less than 200 are planted.

We then continued deep into the wilderness of Rockpile until we reached the Mazzocco Rockpile Ranch property, which is only 800 acres with 25 of them planted. Along the way, we marveled at how difficult it must be to just get the ripened grapes back to the winery, given the ruggedness of the terrain.

Finally arriving at Rockpile Ranch, Antoine needed to let us into the locked gateway to the property. When we got to the vineyard, it was easy to see why this vineyard was kept under lock and key. I love visiting vineyards – where the magic starts – but certain ones seem more magical that others. And this one definitely ranks very high on that list, capped off by Antoine opening a bottle of the 2014 Mazzocco Rockpile Zinfandel for us to enjoy at the vineyard from which it came. Perfection!

Alas, while we have the hard job of writing about wine, Antoine has the much harder job of actually making the stuff. And he had to get back to work! So, he drove us back to the winery and left us in the hands of the very capable, knowledgeable and hospitable Mazzocco tasting room staff.

Much like Mazzocco’s sister winery Wilson, there are so many great wines on the list to try, again mostly Zins, some Petites and a few others as well. My notes say that some of my favorites were…

2014 Zinfandel Maria

2014 Zinfandel Rockpile Reserve [of course!]

2013 Zinfandel Warm Springs Ranch

And, similar to Wilson Winery, Mazzocco has three wines in their premier collection, named after the vineyard manager, winemaker and proprietor, respectively. Truly outstanding special occasion wines that any Zin fan should seek out…

The Tres Amigos

2013 Zinfandel Juan Rodriguez Reserve

2013 Zinfandel Antoine Philippe Reserve

2013 Zinfandel Kenneth Carl Reserve

I can’t thank Antoine enough for taking the time to play tour guide for us. While that kind of experience might not happen often, anyone can [and should] visit Mazzocco and experience their wonderful wines. Definitely a must-visit for any wine lover, especially Zin fans.

Mazzocco Sonoma

1400 Lytton Springs Road

Healdsburg, CA 95448

See photos of our visit with Antoine and others from our trip here: Sonoma County Series.

Perlis Picks: Wilson Artisan Wineries – Wilson Winery

June 17, 2017 by Michael Perlis

Diane and Ken Wilson now own nine wineries that fall under the umbrella of Wilson Artisan Wineries. Truthfully, one could spend a day or two or three [depending on your speed and capacity] just visiting the Wilson-owned wineries and no others and have a wonderful wine country experience, traveling through Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Russian River Valley and Valley of the Moon, as well as into Mendocino County.

On our latest visit to Dry Creek Valley, Karen and I chose two – their eponymous Wilson Winery as well as a revisit to Mazzocco Sonoma.

Wilson Winery

We had some good reasons to want to visit Wilson Winery. I’ve tasted some of their wines before, and was looking forward to trying the latest releases of their legendary Zinfandels as well as their (perhaps even better) Petite Sirahs. But the factor that guaranteed we were going to visit was to see our good friend Rick Fraga.

Rick Fraga is the wine expert that I aspire to be. We met several years ago at a restaurant in Las Vegas and quickly bonded over wine. We always try to visit him every time we come to the Sonoma area. Now that he is wine educator at Wilson…well, that was even more of a reason for us to go there.

Lest you think the owners are hands-off investors in a winery vanity project, Diane Wilson has been winemaker at Wilson Winery since its inception. Founded in the early 1990s, the property’s history goes back a lot farther than that, with the winery facility operating in a restored and modernized century-old barn. The Wilsons are also growers in the Dry Creek Valley, naming their vineyards first after their children and later ones after their parents. Wilson Winery has nine estate vineyards as well as sourcing grapes from other high quality growers.

Diane’s winemaking skills were evident from the beginning as even with no formal training her wines immediately began racking up the accolades and awards, a trend that continues to this day. And she makes a lot of different wines at Wilson Winery.

As I said, a lot of different wines, mostly vineyard designate Zinfandels with a few Petite Sirahs and others mixed in for good measure.

The order form lists a couple dozen or so wines to choose from. With so many delicious choices, it was really hard to pick favorites, but my notes indicate that I especially enjoyed the 2014 Botticelli Zinfandel, the 2013 Molly’s Reserve Petite Sirah and the 2013 Sydney Petite Sirah.

Diane also designates certain Zinfandel as “barrel select”, four, as a matter of fact. While they’d be considered for most of us as special occasion wines, the 2013 Diane Marie Reserve and the 2013 Victoria Johannah Reserve [the two we tasted] were both amazing full-bodied representatives of Zinfandel and worthy of a place in your cellar.

Wilson Winery

1960 Dry Creek Rd

Healdsburg, CA 95448

Perlis Picks: Comstock Wines

June 10, 2017 by Michael Perlis

While I’ve known of and appreciated the great wines of the Dry Creek Valley for many years, it has only been over the last few that I’ve given them the attention they deserve. It is hard to believe that it took me so long, given the quality of the wines, especially those Zinfandels!

But I do owe a debt of gratitude to Kelly Comstock Ferris, General Manager of Comstock Wines for opening my eyes a little wider to appreciate what I’d been missing.

In early 2014, we first met Kelly at an event in Beverly Hills called Sonoma In The City, a traveling roadshow showcasing the AVAs of Sonoma County. I had just gotten there and I recall expressing to Kelly something to the effect that I was concerned that the event was going to be primarily showcasing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, given their popularity. She quickly put my mind at ease by pouring me the first release from her family’s winery – a 2012 Zinfandel that was just outstanding.

Kelly, after years of experience in the hospitality industry, took on the General Manager role of Comstock Wines when her family decided to go beyond farming the grapes from the vineyard they had owned since 2002 and start making wine.

Later that same year, we had the opportunity to visit with Kelly at the family’s gorgeous new state of the art winery. Actually, we met in the construction trailer and had fun tasting through the wines and seeing the plans for the soon to be built winery and tasting room. We left, promising to be back when construction was complete.

Well, somehow we managed to wait two years for our next visit. Was the wait worth it? You betcha.

Let me start by saying that if you have an opportunity to stay a night or two at a winery’s guest house, you should definitely do so. There is no better way to totally immerse oneself in wine country. And, you’d be hard pressed to find a better one than The Residence at Comstock Wines. My wife Karen and I had the pleasure of staying there on our visit.

Just a short walk to the winery tasting room, The Residence provides complete luxury while at the same time is a totally immersive wine country experience, right in the middle of the vineyard property. With four master suites, the huge house also has a full kitchen as well as a living room and media room. In one direction, you can drive to the gourmet restaurants in Healdsburg in just a few minutes and in the other direction are all the wineries and vineyards of the Dry Creek Valley.

And speaking of wineries, the winery at Comstock is a beautiful state of the art building wherein winemaker Chris Russi uses his years of experience and knowledge of the various Sonoma County AVAs and their varietals to “create wines that speak to regional uniqueness.” The winery’s capacity far exceeds Comstock’s production, so they also provide custom crush services to other wineries. I found especially cool the ability to cordon off various sections of the winery to provide for the unique needs of client wineries. And the automated punch-down equipment was really fascinating to me.

All that being said, at the end of the day it is all about the wine, right? Wonderful as this property is, if the wine isn’t up to the same standards…well, it would be hard for me to write this article.

Fortunately, the wines do live up to expectations. Some of our favorites were…

2015 Sauvignon Blanc / Dry Creek Valley – acid on Sauvignon Blanc can sometimes be overwhelming. Not here. Nice tropical fruit flavors with just enough zing on the palate.

2013 Chardonnay / Sonoma Coast – a really clean refreshing Chard. Nice bright flavors.

2013 Zinfandel / Dry Creek Valley and 2012 Zinfandel / Dry Creek Valley – had these side-by-side. The 2012 was the first Comstock wine I had tasted a couple of years early and was drinking beautifully. The 2013, which after our visit won a well-deserved Gold Medal at the 2017 San Francisco Chronicle Competition, was drinking great as well, showing off that wonderful Dry Creek Valley fruit.

2013 Zinfandel / Old Vine / Dry Creek Valley and 2013 Zinfandel / Old Vine / Russian River Valley – another side-by side tasting, and a really interesting one. At first, the upfront fruit of the Dry Creek Valley bottling really got my attention. As I continued to taste each wine, the RRV Zin showed a little more complexity and rewarded a little extra attention. You wouldn’t go wrong with either of these.

2013 Zinfandel / Rockpile – there are a lot of great sites for growing Zinfandel, but I have to say that the Rockpile AVA has always held a special place in my heart [and on my palate]. No surprise here, just a beautiful, jammy, delicious wine.

I’d like to say a big thank you to Erin Bush [Residence Manager & Winery Concierge] and Tracy Bidia [Hospitality Director] as well as everyone else we encountered at Comstock for making our stay so enjoyable. Sadly, Kelly Comstock Ferris was out of town so we were not able to connect this time, so we are really looking forward to seeing her on our next visit to Comstock.

Comstock Wines

1290 Dry Creek Road
Healdsburg, CA 95448

See photos of our visit to Comstock Wines and others from our trip here: Sonoma County Series.

Perlis Picks: Elevating Zinfandel 2017

May 27, 2017 by Michael Perlis

A few days prior to attending Ian Blackburn’s wineLA Elevating Zinfandel event with my wife Karen, I happened across a video that had been posted on Facebook by ZAP [Zinfandel Advocates and Producers – the organization “dedicated to advancing public knowledge of and appreciation for American Zinfandel and its unique place in our culture and history”] featuring Joel Peterson, founder of Ravenswood winery and often called “the Godfather of Zinfandel.” Joel really gave a great explanation of why Zinfandel is considered America’s Heritage grape, given that it truly found its greatness here in California versus, for example, Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux and Pinot Noir in Burgundy.

This greatness was evident at Elevating Zinfandel, where more than a dozen of California’s best producers of Zinfandel showed up to La Brea Bakery to pour their wines for a group of very appreciative tasters.

VIP attendees got to start their tasting an hour early as well as getting an opportunity to taste some special wines reserved just for them. [Obligatory note – when a VIP option is available, always go for it!]

The wineries pouring:

Beekeeper Vineyards

Bedrock Wine Co

Bella Vineyards

Robert Biale Vineyards

Brown Estate

Carol Shelton Wines

Gamba Vineyards and Winery

J Dusi Wines

Mauritson Wines

Ottimino

Peter Franus Wine Co

Quivera Vineyards

Seghesio Family Vineyards

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards

There were absolutely no losers here. Every winery on this list was pouring some outstanding Zinfandels. I could easily end this article here by just saying you should go buy wines from any of these producers and you will be happy. But, that would make for a pretty short article. So, let me expand on some wines that really stood out for me.

When people in Southern California think about Zin, especially those of us in Northern LA County, Paso Robles may come to mind more than any other region. At this tasting, Paso was represented by J Dusi. I knew that Janell Dusi would be up to this task, having made wine from her family’s Dante Dusi vineyard for about 10 years now. The Dusi Vineyard is one of my favorites anywhere for Zinfandel [not just Paso], so I was happy when Janell started making a small amount of wine from the family property, later expanding into other varietals as well. The 2014 Dante Dusi Vineyard Zinfandel and the 2014 Escandalosa blend of Zinfandel, Syrah and Mourvedre were two of my favorite wines of the evening.

The rest of the wineries were based farther North – in Napa Valley and Sonoma County. Since people tend to think of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and Sonoma Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, I thought it was great that the Zinfandels from these areas were being highlighted. Here are few of our favorites…

Bedrock Wine Co. & Under The Wire – winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson [son of the aforementioned Joel Peterson], along with partner Chris Cottrell, has been making wine since he was 5-years old [although he started out with Pinot just to piss off his dad]. The 2013 Under The Wire Bedrock Vineyard Sparkling Old Vine Zinfandel was stellar, and the two 2015 Heritage [historic vineyards – field blends] wines being poured – the Evangelho [Contra Costa County] and Pagani [Sonoma Valley] were great examples of what I think Morgan does best.

Ian Blackburn’s Beekeeper Cellars has been getting well deserved rave reviews. Based in Dry Creek Valley, my favorite was the 2014 Secret Stones, Madrone Spring Vineyard, Rockpile, Sonoma County. Not surprising – Rockpile is a favorite AVA of ours; more wines from there will appear later in this article.

Another Dry Creek Valley winery, Bella Vineyards, impressed us with their Westphall, Rockpile, Sonoma County 2013.

We first tasted Brown Estate Vineyards Zinfandel several years ago at a restaurant in Las Vegas called Rosemary’s. We ended up ordering a second bottle, it was so good. Sadly, Rosemary’s is gone but Brown Estate is still making great wine in Napa Valley, especially for us the Napa Valley, Chiles Valley District 2015.

Not sure where to begin with Carol Shelton Wines. We were just really impressed with her whole lineup. Based in Santa Rosa, she sources from various places. Nice of her to share a 2014 Carignane [loved that she snuck that one in] along with her Zins. And a big shout out for making a Zin from Southern California’s Cucamonga Valley.

When I first tasted the Zins from Gamba Vineyard and Winery many years ago, they seemed too big, even for me. I’m happy to report that they are doing it right. Luscious lip-smacking wines across the board from this Windsor based winery.

You can’t really talk about Dry Creek Valley, especially Rockpile, without mentioning Mauritson Wines. Clay Mauritson was pouring a few wines – favorite by a nose was the Rockpile Ridge Vineyard.

Ottimino is a new winery to me. Really cool to taste a 2001 Zin from them as well as their current releases. Based in Sebastopol in Sonoma County, the 2014 Ottimino Estate Russian River Valley Zin was great.

Robert Biale Vineyards – an old favorite of ours. I did not make it back to their table after the VIP portion of the event, but the 2009 Black Chicken Zinfandel that winemaker Tres Goetting had poured me at that time was excellent.

Turley Wine Cellars – while many people associate Turley with Paso, and rightfully so, the winery is actually headquartered in Napa Valley. Christina Turley was on hand to pour a few of the winery’s delicious Zins. I’ve made no secret of how much I like this winery. This time, the 2015 Duarte Contra Costa County earned top marks for me.

I apologize for the wineries I missed mentioning. As I said, all of the wineries represented are worthy of your attention.

Big thank you to La Brea Bakery for hosting the event and serving some delicious food.

Thanks to Ian Blackburn and his great staff at wineLA for putting on another great wine tasting. Check out his website and sign up so you don’t miss anything.