Perlises Pick: What Wines We Are Drinking At Home – Part 5

June 26, 2021 by Michael Perlis

We were initially planning to continue this series on lighter wines that we are enjoying at home with some more Northern California wineries, but the recent collaboration with Eve reviewing some rosés pointed Karen and me in another direction.

Ted Plemons of Cass

We drink rosés all year long but I realize that some wine drinkers especially fancy them in warmer months so it seemed like a good time to report specifically on a few of those that we have been pleased with recently.

One rosé that we really have been fond of is called “And Why Am I Mr. Pink?” – interesting name, no? The wine is produced by the Underground Wine Project, which is an intriguing name in its own right. I contacted them for more info, and they suggested I reach out to Trey Busch, Winemaker/Partner of the well-known and highly regarded Washington state winery Sleight of Hands Cellars. His response:

“Thanks for writing, and hope your liver has been holding up this past year :).

The Underground Wine Project is a collaboration between Sleight of Hand Cellars and Mark Ryan Winery. Mark and I have been friends for a long time, and we started the brand in 2007 with 100 cases of Syrah. That has transformed into adding And Why Am I Mr. Pink? to the lineup, as well as our 2 red wines, Idle Hands and Devils Playground.

We wanted an edgier brand than either of us have now, and the UWP allows for us to play in that area. Our Mr. Pink Rosé is mostly Sangio with some Syrah as well. All stainless steel (no barrel aging). We wanted to make a porch pounder rosé and this fits the bill. Juicy, terrific fruit, but then awesome acidity to hold it all together. We are making about 14,000 cases a year with the goal to increase production moving forward. National exposure with Whole Foods has helped.”

From Karen for the 2018 vintage: White/pink floral nose, light to medium finish, clean mouthfeel, moderate pear fruit, definitely a porch pounder as we were relishing it on our backyard patio on a warm Saturday evening with light nibbles for dinner.

Another winery that I’ve been a big fan of over the years Cass Winery in Paso Robles. [Yep, Paso again. I make no excuses, Paso wines are some of our favorites.] And I couldn’t pass up their special offer for Valentine’s Day of a dozen rosés. [Get it? Of course you do.]

From Karen for the 2019 vintage of the Cass Oasis Rosé: White flower floral note, dry medium body, red ripe berry fruit from the 63% Mourvedre, fresh, soft and hint of sweetness from the 37% Grenache.

Finally, an article about rosés wouldn’t be complete without the one that Karen has pronounced as her favorite for the last few years from Hoi Polloi winery right here in the Santa Clarita Valley. Doug Minnick [one of the founders of the Garagiste Festivals – I am so looking forward to these returning!] and his partners produce an assortment of terrific wines.

From Karen for the 2018 vintage of the Hoi Polloi Rosé from the Colburn Vineyard, Paso Robles: Fresh, crisp, true strawberry nose, medium to long clean finish, elegant, well-rounded body, silky soft tannins, this rosé of Grenache never fails to deliver!

Underground Wine Project

www.theundergroundwineproject.com

Cass Winery

www.casswines.com

Hoi Polloi

www.hoipolloiwinery.com

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick: What Wines We Are Drinking At Home – Part 4

May 8, 2021 by Michael Perlis

It is finally time to move our focus to Northern California, so now we can write about the Big Three.

Ahhh, the Big Three. These are the three winemakers that have had the biggest influence on our wine drinking over the last 2+ decades. Not only do they make great Zinfandel [kind of a requirement for this Zinfan] along with other wonderful reds that are in our wheelhouse [think Syrah, Petite Sirah, etc.] but they also make wonderful lighter style wines.

In addition, they are all founding members of the Historic Vineyard Society [insert website], an organization dedicated to preserving California’s old vineyards.

Photo provided by Mike Officer of Carlisle

The Big Three are:

Mike Officer of Carlisle Winery and Vineyards

Tegan Passalacqua of Turley Wine Cellars and Sandlands

Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock

Mike and Kendall Officer’s first vintage from their Carlisle Winery www.carlislewinery.com was 1998. They both kept their day jobs for the next few years, but given the immediate accolades they received out of the starting gate for their wines produced from old-vine vineyards, focusing on Zinfandels and Rhones, demand for them to increase production was high. They eventually were able to devote themselves full-time to the winery and their family – both of their children now work at the winery. While we immediately became huge fans of their red wines, they also make three whites that are definitely on our go-to list:

Sonoma Mountain “Steiner Vineyard” Grüner Veltliner: Not too many wineries use this varietal in California.

Sonoma Valley “Compagni Portis” White Wine: a field blend of primarily Gewurztraminer, Trousseau Gris and Riesling from the Compagni Portis Vineyard. Sonoma County “The Derivative” White Wine: The 2018 is a blend of Semillon, Muscadelle, Columbard and Palomino.

While many people consider Turley Wine Cellars www.turleywinecellars.com to be a Paso Robles winery since they purchased the old Pesenti winery in 2000, they also have a facility in Amador County, having acquired the Karly property in 2012. More to the Northern California point, Turley’s headquarters is in St. Helena in the Napa Valley. Under the auspices of Director of Winemaking Tegan Passalacqua, Turley produces an amazing number of delicious Zinfandels from some of California’s best vineyards, along with some Petite Syrahs, Cinsaults and even some Cabernet Sauvignon. If you are looking for lighter wines, they make some great ones as well. For whites, the Sauvignon Blanc is a favorite of ours and The White Coat blend is always outstanding. And yes, Turley also makes a White Zinfandel; but please don’t expect it to be that silly sweet stuff.

Tegan and his wife Olivia also own Sandlands www.sandlandsvineyards.com , where they focus mainly on “forgotten classic California varieties, primarily grown in decomposed granite (sand), from regions and vineyards that have been farmed for many generations but have remained the outliers of California viticulture.” Sure, they do make some outstanding Chardonnay, but don’t miss their Lodi Chenin Blanc or Cinsault, Mataro and Carigane from Contra Costa County, even a Mission from Amador County, among others. The wines have an old-fashioned flair to them, including lower alcohol by modern California standards and are lip-smackingly delicious. Prices are really reasonable too, but you need to try to get on the mailing list!

Last but not least, Morgan Twain-Peterson founded Bedrock www.bedrockwineco.com

in 2007, but winemaking would seem to have always been in his blood. As the son of Joel Peterson who created Ravenswood and now owns Once And Future Wine, Morgan made his first wine when he was 5 years old – I think he made Pinot Noir just to annoy his Zinfandel-loving father. We were first drawn to the Bedrock Syrahs, Zinfandels and Heritage field blends, but we have found the whites to be equally as compelling. Morgan and his now partner-in-wine Chris Cottrell are doing amazing things with Sauvignon Blanc. And if you or anyone you know thinks that Rieslings are not for them, please give Bedrock’s a try; you will change your mind. Finally, the Ode to Lulu is one of our favorite pink wines every year.

Be aware that all of the Big Three reserve the bulk of their production for their mailing lists, so I highly recommend you sign up – or get on their waitlists.

As the weather starts heating up and Karen and I get to being fully vaccinated, we are looking forward to traveling to our favorite wine regions and tasting new varietals and vintages and reporting back. But in the meantime, you’ll probably see another article or two in this series.

Perlises Pick: What Wines We Are Drinking At Home – Part 3

April 24, 2021 by Michael Perlis

When I started writing this series of articles about the lighter wines Karen and I have been drinking recently, I hadn’t really thought that so many of them would be from Paso Robles. After all, Paso’s reputation [at least in my mind] is for big delicious Reds, and there certainly are a lot of those coming from this area. And we don’t limit ourselves to PR’s AVAs, as I expect you know. But, as I’ve said, great winemakers make great wine, regardless of color, and here are three more wineries that produce some of our favorite lighter wines from the area. As an added bonus, they are all somehow connected to each other.

We’ve actually known Guillaume Fabre of Clos Solene www.clossolene.com the longest of these three, having met him at an event back in 2009. He was pouring his first vintage – a delicious Roussanne – and was still assistant winemaker at L’Aventure. But 2009 was long ago. We’ve followed him to the shared Paso Underground tasting room in downtown to Paso Robles and then to Tin City just south of downtown Paso. Now he and his wife Solene have their own property in the Willow Creek District of Paso Robles, from which they are creating some of the best wines in the region. I’ve always felt that his Red wines did a great job of showing how their inherent power could be softened into elegance without losing the characteristics of Paso.

The lighter wines are equally as stylish. Karen loves all of them when “paired with our “Snacks– Hunkered Down” nights of charcuterie and/or smoked fish, various cheeses, dried and fresh fruit, followed by lemon cookies or a scoop of ice cream.”

The pink La Rose is a Rhone blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah, made from grapes specifically farmed for rosé – no saignee here! Very pale in color that belies the complexity of the wine itself.

Clos Solene’s Hommage Blanc is a classic white Rhone blend of mainly Roussanne plus Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Karen found it to be “full bodied…flowers, fruit, spices…”

Finally, En Coulisse is 100% Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyards. A nice rich Chard, and [per Karen] “not overpowering with oak, vanilla or butter but fruit forward…”

Guillaume is also partner in another Paso Robles winery with his brother Arnaud –

Benom Wines www.benomwines.com. They originally took over Clos Solene’s spot in Tin City, although I believe they have now moved to a larger space in the same area.

The name Benom is a riff on the French word “binôme” which translates to “a project together”. These French brothers have successfully combined their homeland’s heritage with all that Paso has to offer, with their blends showing what can be done by them in a place with no rules. No surprise, again, that the red wines are great, but this article is focusing on these lighter wines.

The L’Essor rosé combines Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon and Contrast is a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Neither of these could be made back home due to the rules about combining grapes from different regions. And they clearly should be. Karen loved the “bright fruit” of the L’Essor and found the Contrast to be “crisp, clean, full of fruit…”

As I mentioned at the start, this article is about three wineries that are somehow connected. Arnaud Fabre of Benom is also marketing director at Law Estate Wines www.lawestatewines.com, another winery that we first tasted at a festival. This time it was the Ojai Wine Festival back in 2013, when Karen came up to me and said “you really have to try Law”. As always, she was right and we have been big fans since. We met GM Oliver Esparham at the Ojai Festival and have visited him and the rest of our friends at Law at the state-of-the-art winery and tasting room many times – once even before it was complete. The winery and vineyards high up on Peachy Canyon are amazing in their own right. But, that would mean nothing if the wines didn’t match. And they definitely do. The Law wines are truly some of the best ones around.

With regard to lighter wines, Law makes two. The Rosé blend is typically Grenache based while the white Rhone blend Soph [named after the Laws’ granddaughter] is usually about half Roussanne. The exact blends vary from year to year for both of these, but they are always stunning and are present on our table [and in our glasses] often. I love that the description on the website refers to Soph as “an extremely moreish wine”. We definitely agree on that.

Next article, we’ll finally leave Paso Robles and look at wines from farther north. Unless I change my mind.

Clos Solene

www.clossolene.com

Benom

www.benomwines.com

Law Estate Wines

www.lawestatewines.com

Perlis Picks: San Luis Obispo County Wine — A World Class History (Book Review)

April 3, 2021 by Michael Perlis

Reading San Luis Obispo County Wine — A World Class History by Libbie Agran and Heather Muran with the Wine History Project of San Luis Obispo County brought back a lot of great memories and also filled in a lot of gaps.

I think Karen and I started visiting the Paso Robles wine region in the late 1980s or early 1990s. One of my earliest memories of visiting the wineries of Paso Robles in San Luis Obispo County dates back to us driving down the 101 from the San Francisco Bay area and making a pit stop at Castoro Cellars. Around that time, we also had many happy visits to places like York Mountain Winery, Estrella River Winery [Gary Eberle’s first winery], Arciero, Pesenti and others that are no longer with us, at least in their former incarnations. Castoro, of course, is still producing great wines, along with a host of others that we have seen spring up throughout the area that we have come to consider practically our second home.

And while I’ve felt that my knowledge of the Paso Robles wine region has been pretty extensive, this book taught me so much about what I didn’t know and really filled in the connections between the various industry icons over the history of not only Paso Robles but Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande as well.

The Wine History Project of San Luis Obispo County was founded by Libbie Agran in 2015 to study and document the vineyards, varietals, growers and winemakers of the area going back to the 1700s. Working with Heather Muran [who served as a historian with the project in 2019 and 2020], the book [Libbie’s second], presents the history of the region along with the interrelationships of the people involved in an extremely readable and easy to understand fashion.

Libbie’s writing style flows off the page. She went through numerous oral interviews to collect history and information. The book is also highlighted with many family photographs of the founding members of the SLO Wine region. At the end of each chapter, Libbie lists several historical sites to visit that were discussed in that chapter.

But wait, there’s more!

While the book is a must-read in its own right, I also highly recommend that you check out the Wine History Project’s website. There, you can dig deeper into what is presented in the book and support the work that Libbie is doing. Last April [wow, time flies] I wrote about the film 91 Harvests Perlis Picks: 91 Harvests (evewine101.com) which covers the Dusi family history, but the website provides all the information on the other work that Libbie and her team are doing, as well as exhibitions around the area – I am definitely looking forward to checking these out on our next visit.

Wine History Project of San Luis Obispo County

https://winehistoryproject.org/

Perlises Pick What Wines We Are Drinking At Home – Part 2

February 6, 2021 by Michael Perlis

I’ve written about Stillman Brown and the wines he makes somewhere in Paso Robles often enough over the last several years that people might think I owe him something. All I really owe him is a thank you for his delicious wines as well as for his witty emails. Karen and I have really enjoyed all his wines, but since this series of articles is primarily about the “lighter” wines that we’ve been enjoying at home, I thought I’d share with you two of those that were released most recently. And rather than bore you with my descriptions, I figured I’d just turn you over to Swilly himself:

The deal goes down with Stillman in the La Quinta parking lot — photo by Mike Ortiz (Photo is from this website’s library, taken well before Covid.)

“2019 Chateau d’Abalone Vermentino. It’s light and it’s big, it’s crisp and it’s soft, and it smells like….Vermentino, not like table grapes, dirt, and Muscat de Middleman was added instead of the best possible yeast for the variety. Unusual vine canopy management and my little enological tricks – a ‘secret ingredient’? – make a difference, I think: it’s the equal of the 2015, which … oh well, how about a more recent brag? The new swill slayed all comers at a post-Christmas party I was semi-forced to attend, There were some pretty good palates there, but a few belonged to “snobbeliers” so I didn’t mention that the wine was still in bottle shock at that point. It might have been interpreted as winemaker egomania watered down to mere smugness…

2019 Colossus Viognier. There would have been more if not for Bambi & family, who munched away undisturbed for the extra weeks it took to ripen everything this year, but I did manage to get enough to partly fill a beautiful Caucasian 265 liter barrel – second use, as when new it had held the previous vintage only three months. Second is not second best for barrel fermented whites, sez me. I also had enough to partly fill a 55 gallon stainless drum. (Fill >80% and ferment —> yeast lava flow.) No sweetness, no cloying warm climate perfume, no “it’s cool climate Viognier, it’s supposed to be thin and weird'” Santa Barbara marketing spin. It’s 31 proof.”

Did you follow all that? Yeah, me neither.

From Karen: But the wines were great. These wines go with all our “lighter meals” – turkey, chicken, fish and also what we like to call our “snacks” nights – shrimp cocktails or even steak tartare. Add some fruit, cheese and crackers and we can have dinner on the table in 10 minutes. We know these wines complement whatever we are having for dinner.

The bad news is that I expect these wines are long gone. The good news is they were released about a year ago, so maybe we can expect something equally exciting sometime soon. But the only way that you will know is if you get on his email list, so contact him at swillyidle@gmail.com. You’ll have the opportunity to get some wonderful wines and also some entertaining emails.

Perlises Pick What Wines We Are Drinking At Home – Part 1

January 30, 2021 by Michael Perlis

I’ve seen many wine article titles referencing the pandemic, many with riffs on Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s Love In The Time of Cholera or even One Hundred Years Of Solitude. I didn’t want to go down that road, but I did want to share what wines Karen and I have been drinking over the last several months.

Karen Perlis, Heidi Wiedeman, Carey Babcock and Janell Dusi — photo by Mike Ortiz (2012, photo from this website.)

Our wine habits had actually shifted a couple of years ago. This may come as a shock for regular readers of this ZinFan, but we have been trying to practice eating a lighter diet and the color of the wines followed suit – mainly Whites and Pinks with Reds reserved for less frequent heavier meals and restaurant dining.

Fortunately, there are lots of great W&Ps to choose from, many from wineries that are already our favorites. Because it turns out, great winemakers make great wine, period.

J Dusi Wines (www.jdusiwines.com) is a great example. We’ve been fans of Janell Dusi’s wines ever since we tasted her first commercial vintage of Zinfandel from the iconic Dante Dusi Vineyard in Paso Robles. She makes several other great Reds as well, including various red blends, a Carignane and a Zinfandel from the Benito Dusi Vineyard, some only available to club members.

But for white wine, we really often look no further than what has become somewhat of our house wine, the J Dusi Pinot Grigio – crisp, clean and a great accompaniment to all manner of seafood and pasta dishes. And while I try not to focus too much on price, this wine is extremely well-priced, even more so by the case [and even more so if you are a club member].

And if it is Rosé that you are craving, Janell makes a fine one, a Rhone blend that is as complete as you’ll find anywhere.

The above two wines are both great for any occasion, but if you are looking for something a little more upscale, try the Paper Street Clairette Blanc.

Paper Street is definitely not a second label to J Dusi. Rather, it is a label in its own right, as well as the name of the Paper Street Vineyard, a property on the west side of Paso Robles in the Willow Creek AVA, acquired, cleared and planted by the Dusi family in 2013. Wonderful wines are coming from this vineyard, not just from Janell but from other Paso Robles wineries too, to great accolades. Currently, Janell makes a Zinfandel, a red Rhone blend and a 100% Mourvedre from this vineyard, as well as the aforementioned Clairette Blanc. Clairette Blanc is one of the lesser known [at least to me] white Rhone grapes but it shouldn’t be – this version is as rich and elegant as anything you could ask for.

We’ve been drinking a lot more wines at home, which I’ll write about soon.

Perlis Picks: Portalupi

December 26, 2020 by Michael Perlis

“Grandma was a bootlegger.”

Not something you hear every day, but this is what Jane Portalupi told Karen and me when we visited.

The tag hanging on the one-liter milk bottles of their Vaso di Marina red and white wines tells the story like this:

“This wine is inspired by my grandmother, Marina Portalupi, who immigrated to Northern California from Piemonte, Italy. She believed wine was a staple, like milk and bread, and kept a barrel of her vino di tavola in her small grocery store. Every day, customers would fill their empty milk bottles to take home and pass around the dinner table. Vaso di Marina is a rustic yet refined wine in that same tradition and we hope you’ll enjoy it the same way.”

The above was how this article was supposed to begin after our visit in 2019. For various reasons, it got delayed. My apologies to the Portalupis for that. Then, 2020 came and the pandemic happened, the world changed, and I think it would be more important for you to know what is going on now with the winery.

But first, a little backstory…

I first tasted Portalupi’s wines at WineLA’s 2019 Elevating Zinfandel event. Of course, I only got to taste their Zins that day, but they were excellent versions from the Russian River Valley Dolinsek Ranch. I knew we needed to taste the rest of their offerings the next time we visited Sonoma County, which we ended up doing later in the year.

The winery was founded in 2002 by Jane Portalupi and Tim Borges to showcase their Italian heritage and its connection to California wine in a true Cal-Italia celebration. Jane and Tim knew each other as children and when they reconnected as adults, they married and combined Tim’s winemaking experience with Jane’s fashion marketing background into Portalupi Winery. Founded in 2002, Jane and Tim wanted Portalupi to honor their own Italian heritage along with the deep roots that Italian immigrants have in California’s wine industry.

Karen and I met up with Jane at the winery’s charming tasting room in downtown Healdsburg. Starting out, we were surprised to find they had a sparkling Barbera. What a delicious and fun wine to get our palates ready to taste some serious stuff.

We then tried a couple of whites, the 2016 Vermentino and the 2018 Arneis, both classic Italian varietals that were couldn’t wait to bring home and enjoy.

Enough playing around though, we were ready for the big boys.

Portalupi makes two Barberas, one from Shake Ridge Ranch in Amador County and one from Pauli Ranch in Mendocino. We tried the 2016 versions. I was very slightly partial to the Shake Ridge bottling, but I might have been a little prejudiced since I love Amador Barberas.

We also tasted through a selection of Charbono, two Zinfandels and a Petite Sirah. It’s hard to find much Charbono these days. Portalupi gets their Charbono grapes from the Venturi Vineyard in Ukiah, certified organic and vines over 100 years old, which is also where they get their Petite Sirah. I mentioned above that the Zin comes from Dolinsek in the RRV. As I said, these are “big boy wines”, delicious and able to stand up to whatever food you might throw at them.

I did check in with Jane on how things are going and this is what she told me:

“It has been a crazy year for sure. In Sonoma County we have been only able to serve outside. So our beautiful interior space is not being used although we have found out that our temporary outdoor seating has worked very well, especially on weekends. We are still not getting many tourists except from the bay area. People are loving the outdoors and everyone hopes this will go beyond Covid. We are approved by the city to go through December 2021 and I hope beyond, especially since we plan to build a beautiful outdoor space soon…Just wonder what our new normal will be – I have learned to be light on my feet and can make a change on a dime. So, as hard as it has been, we all have grown. We are fortunate to have a loyal following and are grateful every day for the people who support us.”

Jane said that Portalupi is all about food and wine with friends and family and celebrating the moment. We appreciate her letting us in to share that.

Portalupi Wine

www.portalupiwine.com

107 North St, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Perlis Picks: Vintners Resort!

December 19, 2020 by Michael Perlis

The last time Karen and I visited Vintners Resort in Santa Rosa was in 2019. At that time, the additions of the modern luxury suites and rooms and amenities such as the new spa and pool were in place and the transition from Vintners Inn to Resort was complete.

My plan was to write about this for your reading pleasure late last year or early this one. Delays on my part pushed this farther out than anticipated, and then the world changed. Trying to tell you about the place we visited late last summer seemed perhaps a little irrelevant. What is relevant is what they are doing now and going forward.

Don’t get the wrong idea. The changes made last year are pretty exciting, completing the vision of a property modeled as a modern Mediterranean village, including a harvest table in the onsite vineyard for celebratory meals. And with Vintners Resort now in its 40th year, there is a lot to celebrate.

It’s just that celebrating is a little different right now.

Vintners Resort, in addition to being our favorite place to stay, is known for hosting amazing events, both indoor and out. Those are currently on hold, but staying at the resort certainly isn’t. They’ve indicated that guests are not put in adjoining rooms in order to maximize social distancing, and rooms are given extra sanitizing as well as 24 hours of non-occupancy between guests. So, capacity is reduced accordingly.

Meals are as great as ever, just a little different too. With the River Vine café temporarily closed until next spring, in-room dining is the next best thing. Admittedly, I was a little worried about how my poached eggs would weather the journey across the property, but they were perfect. [Yes, poached eggs are a thing for me.]

Late afternoon and evening dining are available at The Front Room and of course, at John Ash & Co., either dining on the patio or to-go back to your room. Both options are stellar [we know because we tried both] but I highly recommend you don’t miss the opportunity to dine at John Ash under the stars.

When I asked General Manager Percy Brandon what he would like people to know, he responded: “We’re open. We’re ready. And we are following protocols.”

Their website lists in detail what all these protocols are:

https://www.vintnersresort.com/experience/covid-19-policy/

We always love our visits to Vintners Resort. This one was no exception. For as long as I can remember, the property has always had the slogan “Celebrate Everything” but that can easily be augmented with the mantra of “Be Respectful” and the staff has really taken this to heart as well.

Not only is the property itself beautiful and quite peaceful, but it is also ideally located for day trips to the Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley, the Sonoma Coast and more. I can’t imagine a better place to stay in Sonoma County Wine Country.

Be sure to sign up on their website and follow them on Facebook. Now is the time to get great deals.

Vintners Resort

https://www.vintnersresort.com/

4350 Barnes Road
Santa Rosa CA 95403

Perlis Picks: Comstock Winery Experiences

December 12, 2020 by Michael Perlis

When Karen and I started thinking about making our first-in-a-long-time visit to a winery [or anywhere for that matter] we wanted to take into account certain criteria – protocols followed, outdoor seating, an exceptional experience and of course, great wine.

Comstock in the Dry Creek Valley immediately came to mind.

Photo from Comstock website.

We’ve been fans of the wines and people from Comstock ever since meeting the General Manager of the new winery, Kelly Comstock Ferris, at the Sonoma In The City traveling road show in Beverly Hills in 2014, later that year visiting Kelly at the under-construction winery, and then visiting about two years after that and staying on the property for the ultimate wine country experience. We knew they were the right choice.

Of course, things are a little different now. Like everyone else, Comstock has had to pivot. Tastings are by reservation on the large scenic patio.

A central feature now is paired tasting experiences. We had the pleasure to try the Grilled Cheese Pairing, which included:

2018 Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc paired with a Confit Tuna Melt with Shallots, Celery, Kumquat Kosho & Estero Gold on House-made Rye English Muffin.

2015 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay paired with House-made Country Ham, Gruyere, Dijon & Bechamel on Sliced Sourdough.

2017 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir paired with Applewood Bacon & Smoked Cheddar on Brioche, Tomato Soup Shooter.

2014 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel paired with Akaushi Cheesesteak with Peppers, Onion, Mushroom & Smoked Provolone on House-made Roll.

Definitely not your Grandma’s grilled cheese.

We were excited that the Sauvignon Blanc was on the list. We were out of the supply that we had ordered earlier in the year so it was a great chance to see how it was tasting and replenish our stock – which we did!

We don’t drink Chardonnay often anymore. We have nothing against it, there are just so many other varietals out there. But this one was outstanding, hitting all the right notes with a little bit of bottle age to mellow it out. This might have been our favorite pairing, although the Pinot Noir with the twist on the classic grilled cheese and tomato soup gave it tough competition for sure. Actually, they all did.

Especially the last one. Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel is always great, and paired with the cheesesteak. Well…Mmmm…Steak.

As I mentioned to Karen, who then passed my observations on to Tracy Fabro Bidia, Comstock’s Hospitality Director when she stopped by our table to check on us, many people say that pairings are overrated – until they try the right ones by people who know what they are doing.

In this case, we were really blown away. Of course, it helps to have someone like classically trained Chef Jude Affronti putting these together. Chef Affronti said that his approach is actually fairly simple: he tries to make 1 + 1 = 3, the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. Well, it definitely works.

Another experience that we didn’t get a chance to try but I expect to be equally as delicious is labeled Wine & Woodfired, paired as follows:

2017 Viognier with Thai Chicken Skewer the Estate Peach Chutney Kumquat Kosho Slaw, Sweet Corn Ginger & Citrus

2015 Chardonnay with House-smoked Local King Salmon with Roast Trevisa, Watermelon, Cucumber, Mint & Garden Radish

2017 Pinot Noir with House-made Sausage with Portobello Summer Squash, Mushroom Conversa & Plum Gastrique

2014 Cabernet Sauvignon with Espresso Crusted Akaushi Coulotte Steak with Horseradish Ricotta, Heirloom Shelling & Wax Beans, K1 Steak Sauce

Next time for sure. Mmmm…Steak.

We rounded out our tasting with a few other gems. Karen especially loved the 2019 Sonoma County Rosé, the 2016 Rockpile Petite Sirah was outstanding as well, and the 2016 Bennet Valley Syrah, in spite of tasting so many excellent wines, was my favorite wine of the day. We finally got to meet winemaker Chris Russi too. He had significant winemaking experience before coming to Comstock, with Geyser Peak in Sonoma County, Peter Lehmann in Australia and Christopher Creek in the Russian River Valley all on his resume, among others. Unlike some wineries and winemakers that might have a “house style”, Chris’s approach is to let each vineyard speak for itself without undue influence. [I also noted after visiting that he owns an old vine vineyard in the Russia River Valley that is listed on the Historic Vineyard Society website, which always earns extra points with me.]

Thank you to Kelly and Tracy for taking such great care of us. In chatting with Kelly near the end of our visit, two things became crystal clear:

One: the future is bright for Comstock no matter what it holds.

Two: we need to visit more often.

Perlis Picks Mazzocco Sonoma’s Zinfandels!

December 5, 2020 by Michael Perlis

I think I need to finally admit something…

About Zinfandel.

Back when I first started developing my appreciation of Zin, there were the three Rs of Zinfandel – Rosenblum, Ridge and Ravenswood.

More recently, although still about 20 years ago, my own tastes elevated Turley and Carlisle to the top spots. Bedrock, the relative newcomer [first vintage was 2007] was added to round out this trinity a decade or so ago.

ANTOINE FAVERO

This is not to say that there aren’t other great Zinfandel producers out there. But the abovementioned three always seem to rise just enough above the others to stay in that top spot of Zins that one cannot do without.

But at a recent visit by Karen and me to Mazzocco Sonoma in the Dry Creek Valley, it dawned on me. We’ve visited this winery several times and have never failed to be totally blown away by the quality, especially the famous Zinfandels. This properly socially distanced visit with winemaker Antoine Favero was no exception.

Mazzocco is doing all the right things with their tastings, of course: reservation only, outdoors, tables far apart, masks worn except when seated at tasting table [all subject to change as protocols change, of course].

We had pulled Antoine away from harvest duties, so as we awaited his arrival we started out with a taste of the Kenneth Carl Brut [named after winery co-owner Ken Wilson] followed by the 2018 Chardonnay Reserve Stuhlmuller, Alexander Valley which had just won Gold at the 2020 Sonoma County Harvest Fair. [You’ll note a lot of Gold and above winners at Mazzocco, more than just about any other winery that I’ve encountered and from fairly local and extremely legitimate events where the judges know of what they speak – and taste!]

Antoine’s arrival prompted air hugs, followed by tasting through some of the wines he suggested we try, along with conversation about the crazy year that we had all experienced.

Now Antoine makes a lot of wines at Mazzocco, mostly Zinfandels, far too many to taste all of them, so we put ourselves in Antoine’s hands and off we went.

But, put on the brakes just for a second. Before trying the Zins, we wanted to try the 2018 Grenache Chemise, Dry Creek Valley. Made in a totally different style from the Zinfandels, this really emphasized the softer Grenache fruit. Of course, multiple Golds for this beauty.

But Antoine knew we were there for Zinfandel, so he led us through a tasting of some amazing ones:

2018 Sullivan Reserve – Dry Creek Valley [Captivating aromas of violets and wild cherry with hints of sweet star anise lead to rich layered flavors of black cherry preserves, dark chocolate, cinnamon stick, and spice in the mouth. The crisp, dark concentrated berry finish is framed with luscious tannins laced with baking spices, a dash of Habanero pepper, and a smidgen of cacao.]

2018 Serracino Reserve – Dry Creek Valley [Wonderful aromatics of baking spices, blackberry, and wisteria lead to a harmonious flavor medley of chocolate truffle, nougat, and vanilla bean with hints of gooseberry in the mouth. The tannins are velvety, ending with a smidgen of French oak, a hint of dusty rose, and a dusting of cacao.]

2018 Warm Springs Ranch – Dry Creek Valley [Captivating aromatics of violets, wild cherry, and potpourri meld seamlessly in the nose followed by a fleshy palate of boysenberry and hazelnut framed by luxurious and inviting tannins. This is a well-balanced Zinfandel with round plush tannins and a long caressing finish, hinting of exotic spices, Madagascar vanilla with a smidgen of coffee bean.]

2018 Pony Reserve – Dry Creek Valley [Alluring fragrances of red rose, marionberry, and cherry cola lead into a complex medley of blackberry, raspberry preserves, and Ceylon vanilla. This Zinfandel’s velvety tannins frame a fusion of ripe fruit laced with maple syrup, French oak, and a smidgen of dark chocolate truffle in the finish.]

2018 Maple Reserve – Dry Creek Valley [Inviting aromas of blueberry and rose petals fuse with cacao-scented oak and hints of toffee, showcasing the intense flavors to follow. An opulent entry opens the way to wild cherry marmalade, blackberry, and spice with a smidgen of vanilla bean and traces of hazelnut with cardamom and spice residing in the background. As the layers contribute to the complexity, so do the round supple tannins and integrated oak.]

There are a lot more, but we had to draw the line at some point.

I’ve never been good with tasting notes and I am not going to try to BS my way through with some here. The notes above were provided by Antoine. Suffice it to say these were some of the hardest wines that I’ve ever had to pour out from my glass in order to move on to the next one, and in some cases the only pouring was into my open mouth. Just outstanding.

A tasting with Antoine wouldn’t be complete without a taste of one of the Three Amigos wines, ultra-premium versions of the best the winery has to offer, each one named after a key person with the winery, Kenneth Carl, Juan Rodriguez and Antoine Phillippe. We tasted the 2017 Antoine and it was truly amazing, not surprisingly.

As we tasted we talked about the changes they had to make during the pandemic, both within their now eleven-winery organization as well as with tasting experiences. Of course, problems were exacerbated due to the fires, with many vineyards experiencing fire and/or smoke damage.

Smoke taint can be the kiss of death to a wine. Its impact can be a matter of degree, but no winery wants to put out a product that shows even a hint of it. The amount of samples from the entire area being submitted to labs for testing create a huge backlog. Antoine needed to run some preliminary micro-fermentations on his own to get a handle on things before getting the actual lab results to confirm his findings. He let us taste one result from a vineyard that he declared a total loss for 2020.

This was actually quite interesting. The sample did not taste bad. Antoine compared it to mezcal; we also noted distinct BBQ notes. It just didn’t taste like wine and it was definitely an indicator of a vintage lost for that particular vineyard. And Antoine saved this for the end for a good reason, as after tasting this our palates definitely needed a rest.

Now Antoine had to get back to finishing harvest and we needed to make our purchases and be on our way. As we walked back to our car [wearing masks, of course], I thought – “the Zinfandel trinity has officially become a quaternity”. Long past due, for sure.