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Reviewing the New Smith-Madrone 2018 Riesling

February 24, 2023 by evebushman

Before tasting the latest Riesling from Smith-Madrone I was reminded of a time years ago when I attended a Riesling class and food pairing. The wines were from one winery in the Mosel region of Germany (grown on steep hillsides similar to Smith-Madrone) and I remember that only the last couple of wines we sampled could be described as sweet. It was eye-opening for me at the time as I had assumed all Rieslings to be sweet, prior to taking my first wine certification classes, and was pleasantly surprised to learn that I was wrong.

I was equally – and very pleasantly – surprised when I had my first Riesling wine from Smith-Madrone. The 2017 Smith-Madrone Riesling review of mine is here and here is the fact sheet for the 2018 that I’m tasting with you today. Below are my tasting notes and below that is information from the winery.


2018 Smith–Madrone Riesling Tasting Notes

13.3% alcohol, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley

The wine is the color of pale gold, and sparkly, making it very appealing. On the nose, which I detected from about three inches away, I was reminded of sweet Meyer lemons, ripe grapefruit, wet pebbles in a stream, a touch of pineapple, talcum powder and Golden Delicious apples. I was anxious to taste the wine and immediately noted its rich mouth-coating viscosity, a lot of that Golden Delicious apple I found on the nose, as well as more pineapple, less lemon, with a mild to medium acidity that held on for a nice long finish. It wasn’t bone dry or sweet; instead it had a nice sweet spot that I thought would pair well with a cheese board, pasta in a cream sauce, fried chicken or all by itself!

From The Winery

The wine is all estate Spring Mountain District fruit, 100% Riesling, grown at an elevation of 1,300-1,900 feet, with slopes angling up to 34%. The vineyard is partially dry-farmed and most of the Riesling was planted on its own rootstock…the same hands cleared, planted, tend and make the wine…for the last fifty years.

Only 1,611 cases made. SRP is $36.00.

Winemaker Charlie Smith describes the wine: The 2018 Riesling opens with abundant floral notes buttressed by underpinnings of lime, lemon and exotic oranges. This delicate, fetching aroma leads one to expect a wine on the lighter, more delicate side and, when tasted, this expectation is confirmed. On the palate the wine is stylish and elegant, demonstrating a brilliant acidity that is at once fine and lively, tasty and fun and not the least off putting. The acid feels just right; it’s very much like biting into a delicious, crunchy Riesling flavored apple. For a wine of this delicate construction, it still manages to retain a solid core of vibrant fruit. It’s svelte and elegant, it’s drinking beautifully now and shows great promise for the future.

Smith-Madrone was founded partly on the premise of making great Riesling (i.e., not to dis the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay!), given its mountain site and steep slopes. Stu Smith describes the effort to market Riesling as Sisyphean…and to that point beginning with the 1983 Riesling vintage Smith-Madrone went where no other American winery would go for the next 17 years – changing the label from Johannisberg Riesling to “just” Riesling, and essentially outlasting the BATF and prevailing with that name.

Smith-Madrone’s Riesling is one of perhaps less than ten Rieslings grown/made in the Napa Valley.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Proof Awards, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: acidity, alcohol, California, cheese, color, dry, farming, finish, food pairing, fruit, Germany, Mosel, mouthfeel, Napa Valley, nose, Riesling, sparkling, sweet, taste, tasting notes, vineyard, vineyards, viscosity, wine education, Wine tasting, winemaker, winery

Hillick and Hobbs’ Finger Lakes Estate Set to Open, As Announced by Winemaker Paul Hobbs

June 30, 2022 by evebushman

FINGER LAKES, N.Y. (PRWEB) – After years of anticipation, renowned winemaker Paul Hobbs has announced the grand opening of his Finger Lakes estate, Hillick & Hobbs. The state-of-the-art hospitality center will showcase Hillick & Hobbs’ exceptional estate Riesling and is set to become one of the premier wine destinations in the Finger Lakes.

Situated on the southeastern banks of Seneca Lake, the new Hillick & Hobbs hospitality center will feature cypress walls, furniture crafted from materials sourced from the estate and other sustainably made furnishings. Hobbs entrusted the planning and design of the estate to international designer Tom Johnson. Based in the Finger Lakes, Johnson has worked in Japan and other areas of Asia and has designed custom residences and wineries in upstate New York.

“Tom is an extraordinarily gifted designer. His ability to blend purposeful utility, simplicity, function, and beauty is thrilling,” said Hobbs. “His sense of scale and form play well to my own sensibilities.”

Hobbs selected Trade Design Build to lead the project because of its integration of architecture and construction within a single company. The firm specializes in the construction of luxury restaurants, tasting rooms, and bars with a focus on the environment and location.

Hillick & Hobbs holds special meaning to Hobbs, who named the winery after his parents, Joan Hillick and Edward Hobbs. The winery honors Hobbs’ roots in western New York where he grew up on his family’s farm. In 2013, he revived his family’s legacy of growing grapes in New York when he acquired a 78-acre property in the Finger Lakes with the vision of producing world-class Riesling. Hillick & Hobbs will offer an estate vertical experience featuring two vintages of the Estate Vineyard Dry Riesling, which was launched with the inaugural 2019 vintage, and a curated charcuterie board. There will also be a selection of food pairings available.

“The Finger Lakes is a compelling region for growing world-class Riesling. Its well-drained, slate soils trap the radiant heat, and the moderating effect of Seneca Lake creates the airflow crucial for keeping the canopies healthy,” said Hobbs. “After an exhaustive two-year search for the ideal site to grow Riesling that could rival the best of the Old World, aided by my brother David, we finally found the property just south of Hector Falls that was reminiscent of the Mosel.”

The estate vineyard is currently planted to 21-acres of high-density Riesling on steep slate soils that run with the slope, akin to Germany’s famed Mosel region. The Hillick & Hobbs estate is one of the first in the region to plant in this style with a focus on crafting site-specific estate Riesling under the supervision of winemaker Lynne Fahy and vineyard manager Samuel Pulis.

For more information about Hillick & Hobbs’ wines, history, new releases, and upcoming celebratory events, please visit http://www.hillickandhobbs.com and follow Hillick & Hobbs on Instagram @hillickandhobbs.

About Paul Hobbs Wines
Founded on Paul Hobbs’ pioneering spirit and adventurous pursuit of innovation and discovery, Paul Hobbs Wines is a highly curated selection of superior quality wines. Through sustainable farming, meticulous vineyard management, and minimally invasive winemaking techniques, each wine expresses its vineyard origins with finesse, complexity, and authenticity. The company’s portfolio spans the globe; domestic projects include Hobbs (California), Paul Hobbs Winery (California), Crossbarn (California), and Hillick & Hobbs (Finger Lakes, New York). The international ventures, imported to the U.S. by Paul Hobbs Selections, includes Viña Cobos (Argentina), Crocus (Cahors, France), Yacoubian-Hobbs (Armenia), and Alvaredos-Hobbs (Galicia, Spain). For more information, visit http://www.paulhobbswines.com and http://www.paulhobbsselections.com.

About Paul Hobbs
Highly regarded for his ability to identify exceptional vineyards across the globe and working innovatively to refine the art of winemaking, Paul Hobbs continues his unwavering pursuit to express new and historical sites by employing viticulture and winemaking practices that capture their unique origins. For over 30 years, Paul has engaged annually in two harvests spanning seven countries. Today, Hobbs is owner and vintner for wineries around the globe: Paul Hobbs (California), Crossbarn (California), Hillick & Hobbs (Finger Lakes, New York), Viña Cobos (Argentina), Crocus (Cahors, France), Yacoubian-Hobbs (Armenia), and Alvaredos-Hobbs (Galicia, Spain). To learn more, visit http://www.paulhobbs.com.

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: bar, charcuterie, craft, estate, finger lakes, food, food pairing, Germany, Mosel, New York, restaurants, Riesling, soil, tasting room, vineyard, wine pairing, Wine tasting, winemaker, winery

South Coast Winery Garners 20 Awards from LA Competition

May 7, 2022 by evebushman

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: argentina, Australia, best of class, blend, bronze medal, California, canada, Chardonnay, Chile, competition, France, Germany, Gewurztraminer, gold medal, Grenache Blanc, israel, Italy, Japan, judge, los angeles, medal, mexico, New Zealand, pinot blanc, Pinot Grigio, Port, portugal, red blend, Rhone, Riesling, Rose, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, silver medal, spain, sparkling, Temecula, Tempranillo, united states, verdelho, vintage, Viognier, wine competition, wine education, wine judge

Lodi, California: Home to a World of Winegrape Varieties

November 8, 2021 by evebushman

Home to 125 varieties in production, the Lodi AVA is the most diverse winegrowing region in the United States. While it is the leading producer of many top California varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, what makes the region truly distinctive are the myriad of unusual grape varieties planted here. From Alicante Bouschet to Zweigelt, Lodi is a dazzling melting pot of global varieties. Take a peek to learn how Lodi came to grow the largest collection of German varieties outside Deutschland.

Dusky sky over Harney Lane vineyard, Sept. 2013-Credit Randy Caparoso

Lodi’s ideal Mediterranean-like climate is integral to the ability of different winegrapes to flourish within the region. Varying micro-climates across Lodi’s sub-appellations and sandy loam soils rich in granitic-based minerals create an ideal environment for diverse wine production. During the growing season, warm, sunny days allow for optimal ripening of winegrapes, while cool winds off the Pacific Ocean which travel inland over a network of waterways act as a natural air conditioner, helping grapes maintain racy acidity.

In addition to near-perfect terroir, Lodi’s success in winegrape diversification can be attributed to multi-generational winegrowing families who are dedicated to innovative and sustainable viticultural practices. Find out how the region’s LODI RULES for sustainable winegrowing program is ensuring fruitful longevity for years to come.

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: acidity, Alicante Bouchet, ava, cabernet sauvignon, California, Chardonnay, climate, Germany, grape, Lodi, microclimate, terroir, united states, variety, winegrower

Wine Paris and Vinexpo Paris, where the global industry meets

October 30, 2021 by evebushman

Wine Paris and Vinexpo Paris is returning to Paris Expo Porte de Versailles from 14 to 16 February 2022 for its third edition, marking the resumption of in-person events for the wine and spirits industry. By offering a comprehensive and inspiring range of products with a powerful international resonance, the Vinexposium group’s flagship event is reiterating its commitment to becoming THE global benchmark and a key date for trade members.

Wine Paris and Vinexpo Paris will be the first major international event of 2022 and it marks the resumption of full-scale tastings. Highly awaited by the global wine and spirits industry for the variety of products on show and its business meetings, the event is now focusing on promoting attendance by key buyers, including those from outside the EU who are showing a strong interest in the exhibition.

Over three days, more than 2,800 exhibitors will convene in Paris to showcase their latest vintage, their flagship products and rare bottlings, all of them delicious pours to be shared with connoisseurs from around the globe. The desire by French wine marketing boards to join forces by being stakeholders in the event is stronger than ever and the event will group together all of France’s wine regions, alongside an impressive line-up of international wine regions. In total, representations from 23 countries will celebrate the reunion of the wine and spirits community in the heart of the French capital next February.

The event, which will cover four halls at the entrance to the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles exhibition centre (halls 3, 4, 5 and 6), will cater as much to the small winegrowers as to the major international brands. Household names such as François Lurton, Gérard Bertrand, E. Guigal, Maison M. Chapoutier, Domaine Paul Mas, Castel Frères, Maison Sichel, Bernard Magrez, Grands Chais de France and Gh Martel & Cie Champagne will be attending, alongside less prominent vineyards well worth discovering, such as the Aquitaine Independent Winegrowers and family-run properties like Vins Chevron Villette, Vignobles Vellas and Château Castigno, to name a few. Hall 5, set aside for international producers, will welcome wines of Luxembourg, Advantage Austria, Tenuta Lamborghini, Wines of Lebanon, Wines of Germany, Cesari, Carpineto, Consorzio Di Tutela Della Doc Prosecco, Consorzio Tutela del vino Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco, Gaja, J. Garcia Carrion, Viniportugal Wines Of Portugal, Hammeken Cellars and Flechas De Los Andes, for example.

Alongside wines in Hall 3, the Be Spirits by Vinexpo area and its huge Infinite bar will bring together spirits from all backgrounds, ranging from micro-distilleries through to well-known brands. Attendees will include the Armagnac marketing board BNIA, Calvados Château du Breuil, Cognac Lheraud, Distillerie Warenghem, Gin de Binche, Glasgow Whisky, La Martiniquaise, Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association and Distilleria Bertagnolli.

“Wine Paris and Vinexpo Paris is above all an event that brings people together and creates a sense of community. People welcome their clients there from a wide range of backgrounds to give international exposure to local, innovative products, from the little treasures to the prominent growths. Paris will host a celebration in 2022 and we are very much looking forward to being reunited with everyone once again”, stresses Rodolphe Lameyse, CEO of Vinexposium.

For more information, please visit wineparis-vinexpo.com 

About WINE PARIS & VINEXPO PARIS

WINE PARIS (created by COMEXPOSIUM under the guidance of 13 French wine marketing boards) is the merger of VinoVision and Vinisud, an initiative by all of the founding, partner wine marketing boards. It was further enhanced in 2020 when it partnered with VINEXPO, the creator of international events for the wine and spirits trade. Founded in 1981 by the Bordeaux-Gironde chamber of commerce and industry, Vinexpo is celebrating its 40th anniversary in 2021 and has gained unique market insight, along with an extensive network of influential distributors worldwide.

About VINEXPOSIUM

Owned jointly (50/50) by global events organiser Comexposium and Vinexpo Holding (owned by the Bordeaux-Gironde Chamber of Commerce and Industry, CCIBG), Vinexposium is the world’s leading organiser of wine and spirits trade events. Vinexposium brings together an extensive range of high-performance events catering to different market segments through its portfolio of iconic, recognised events: Wine Paris & Vinexpo Paris, Vinexpo America, Drinks America, Vinexpo Hong Kong, Vinexpo Bordeaux, Vinexpo Shanghai, WBWE Amsterdam, as well as Vinexpo Explorer and World Wine Meetings.

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: cellar, chateau, distillery, France, Germany, Japan, portugal, prosecco, sake, shochu, spirits, tasting, vinexpo, whisky, wine event, Wine tasting, winegrower

Ember Restaurant at We-Ko-Pa Casino Resort Receives Wine Spectator “Best of Award of Excellence” for 2021

August 14, 2021 by evebushman

FORT MCDOWELL, Ariz. /PRNewswire/ — Today, the We-Ko-Pa Casino Resort is thrilled to announce that Ember, its fine dining restaurant, has received Wine Spectator‘s esteemed “Best of Award of Excellence.”  The honor recognizes recipients that offer extensive selections with excellent breadth across multiple regions and significant vertical depth, and Ember is now one of 19 restaurants (out of nearly 9,000) in Arizona – and one of approximately 1,000 around the world – to receive this award.

This is the second time that the Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation has been lauded by this highly regarded industry publication.  In 2006, the Ahnala Mesquite Room received the “Award of Excellence,” recognizing the restaurant’s wine list that featured a well-chosen assortment of quality producers along with a thematic match to the menu in both price and style.  The fact that the tribal nation has now been granted two Wine Spectator awards for excellence – an achievement rare among tribal casinos – affirms their commitment to delivering an exceptional culinary experience.

“American restaurants are back in business, as patrons are eagerly returning to dining rooms across the nation,” said Marvin R. Shanken, Editor and Publisher, Wine Spectator. “In this year’s Restaurant Awards issue, we reflect on how restaurateurs navigated this incredibly difficult period, and look ahead, with every indication that the coming year will be one of the most promising in decades for an industry we all love. It’s been a long road back, and it feels wonderful to celebrate restaurants and all they bring to the world of wine.”

“The ‘Best of Award of Excellence’ really belongs to our advanced sommelier Dennis Payne, whose 31 years of experience and painstaking efforts over the past year have resulted in this impeccable award-winning wine list,” added Zac Gallo, Executive Director of Food and Beverage for the We-Ko-Pa Casino Resort.  “Not only has Dennis cultivated an extensive  wine and spirit program, but he ensures the proper care, storage and handling of our collection to maximize our guests’ dining experiences.”

Ember’s wine program covers seventeen countries, focusing on each country’s top wine-producing regions and most highly acclaimed vineyards.  It includes 517 wines by the bottle and 26 wines by the glass – ranging from a strong California presence to Barbaresco, Rioja, New Zealand, Argentina and Germany – along with 30 Dessert Wines from across the globe as well as 15 Ports and Madeiras.

In addition, Ember has a special page in their 37-page wine list titled “The Century Club,” dedicated to the world’s top 100-point wines.  Curated for fine wine collectors, this list contains 32 critically acclaimed wines spanning more than two decades that have scored a perfect 100 points.

Wine Spectator began its program to recognize the world’s best wine lists in 1981. There are three levels: the Award of Excellence, the Best of Award of Excellence and the Grand Award—with 1,673; 1,141; and 103 winners this year in each respective category.

All award winners will be featured in Wine Spectator‘s special 40th Anniversary Restaurant Awards issue, available to readers today.

For more information on Ember, visit www.wekopacasinoresort.com/dining/ember.

About Ember

A destination dining experience at the new We-Ko-Pa Casino Resort, Ember is run by critically acclaimed Chef de Cuisine Richard Pelz.  In addition to an exhaustive wine and spirit library, the restaurant features the highest quality USDA Prime and Angus Wagyu beef, game and seafood from around the world, carefully prepared over a custom wood burning grill. Signature items include their Ujih Hot Stone appetizer, Seafood Tower, Snake River Farms Wagyu Striploin, Braised Buffalo Short Rib, and Ember Flaming Liquid Chocolate Truffle.
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The energetic dining space overlooks the all-scratch kitchen with views of the culinary team, and seasonal outdoor dining by the fireplace is also available. A separate piano lounge with live entertainment five nights a week adds to the dynamic vibe.

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: advanced sommelier, argentina, arizona, award, barbaresco, beverage, California, casino, collector, culinary, dessert wine, food, Germany, kitchen, library wines, madeira, New Zealand, points, Port, resort, restaurant, Rioja, spirits, storage, vertical, vineyards, wine glass, wine list, wine spectator

Historic Straub Brewery Launches First Ever Sangria Spritzer for Year Round Enjoyment

July 22, 2021 by evebushman

ST. MARYS, Pa./PRNewswire/ — The genesis of Straub Brewery traces back to the day Sabina Sorg and Peter Straub met, nearly 150 years ago. This brewer’s daughter and an emerging brewmaster married and together launched a legacy of handcrafting beer in the tradition of their German heritage, that continues on today seven generations later. To celebrate the spirit of this adventurous matriarch, Straub Brewery is proud to offer Sabina’s Signature Series – Wild Berry Sangria Spritzer!

“While the founding Straub family worked together, they were also known to enjoy spending some down time as a family,” noted Bill Brock, Straub Brewery President/CEO and the great-great-grandson of Peter and Sabina Straub. “I can envision them, sitting on their expansive front porch after a long day of work, sipping on their refreshing brews. It is in her honor that Straub Brewery is proud to offer our new flavorful Wild Berry Sangria Spritzer.”

Sabina’s Wild Berry Sangria Spritzer is a bubbly rich ruby red blend with 100% natural fruit juices and a hint of citrus. It is gluten free and has only 80 calories per six ounce serving. The 5% ABV complements the natural fruit and sparkling mountain fresh spring water, red and white grapes, apple, raspberry, and elderberry juices combine to create a refreshing, fruit forward, well balanced sangria that captures the wine sweetness and is balanced with real fruit tartness and citrus of the berries. Sabina’s Sangria Spritzer is available now throughout western Pennsylvania.

“In the beverage industry, flavored wines – such as Sangria – and sparkling seltzers have been doing well over the past few years and we thought, why not combine the two into a fresh new product?” added Brock. “Our Sangria Spritzer is a great entry category for new and younger Gen Z and millennial wine consumers, and we’ve experienced great feedback from a much broader base of new fans! After being stuck at home for so long, people are excited to get out and see their friends. And, our Sangria Spritzer is the perfect beverage for friends and family to get together, celebrate, and enjoy the super summer of all summers!”

ABOUT STRAUB BREWERY
Straub Brewery, Inc. is an international award-winning brewery founded in 1872 by German immigrant Peter Straub, who, at age 19, left his family and homeland in search of the American Dream. Today, Straub Brewery is an American Legacy Brewery™. Located in St. Marys, PA, it is one of the oldest and most historic breweries in America, and is still owned and operated by its founding family, now into its sixth and seventh generations. Fodor’s Travel named Straub Brewery one of the “5 Best Places in America to Drink American Beer.”  Straub Brewery produces Straub American Lager, Straub American Light Lager, Straub American Amber Lager, Hop Blaster IPA, and an ever-changing lineup of seasonal craft brews, such as Summer Splash Lager, Tight Lines Kolsch, 1872 Lager, Autumn Smash, Oktoberfest, and Winter Bash. For more information visit: www.straubbeer.com.

 

Media Contacts:
Cathy Lenze, Straub Brewery, Inc. Stephen Wayhart, BrandMill
814.335.4004, 312929@email4pr.com 412.401.0555, 312929@email4pr.com

 

 

SOURCE Straub Brewery

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: abv, award, beverage, brewer, brewery, craft beer, Germany, hard seltzer, ipa, pennsylvania, sangria

Two rare bottles of 1889 Tokaji Essencia, Zimmerman Lipot by the Jewish Zimmerman family to be offered at auction

July 12, 2021 by evebushman

Two bottles of incredibly rare 1889 Tokaji Essencia, Zimmerman Lipot from Hungary’s most renowned wine region Tokaj and from the most famous family to produce it, will be offered in Dreweatts Fine and Rare Wine and Spirits sale on July 8, 2021. The Tokaji Blend is a term used to describe the varietal composition of the revered wines of Tokaj, Hungary and the area and vineyard, which have an impassioned history, centred around the first winemakers of the region, the Jewish Zimmerman family. 

This photo is NOT of the wines in this auction, it is just to give you an idea and photo credit goes to FinestAndRarest.com

The Zimmermann family were wealthy Jewish landowners, creating the region’s legendary sweet wine from first-growth vineyards from the 19thcentury until World War II. They had numerous vineyards across Tokaj and approximately 60 cellars and lived in an elegant townhouse in Mád, as well as having a second residence in Abaújszántó. Highly successful, their wines were prized, receiving several gold medals at competitions in Berlin in 1892 and Paris in 1896. The company continued to flourish with offices in Budapest, Berlin, Katowice, London and New York, until the occupation of Hungary by Germany in 1944. It was then under General Dome Sztojay and SS Colonel Adolf Eichmann that 437,402 Hungarian Jews were deported to Auschwitz, amongst them the Zimmerman family, in an attempt to eradicate the last intact Jewish community in occupied Europe. The vineyards were left to fall into disrepair and eventually taken over by the communist state when Hungary fell to the Red Army in 1945 and communism ruled until the 1980s.

It was in 1990 following the fall of communism, that the first foreign investor in the region purchased the land and vineyards. British wine writer Hugh Johnson acquired it from more than 60 individuals, who had bought it when it was privatized some years before. In doing so, he founded the winery known as Royal Tokaji, which has established itself as one of Hungary’s most foremost wineries. The region of Tokaj was also designated a world heritage site in 2002.

In June 2016, six descendants of the Zimmerman family’s holocaust survivors unveiled two plaques at the front of the headquarters of the Royal Tokaji wineries in Hungary, recognizing the family’s unequivocal link to the history of winemaking in the region and in tribute to the Jewish community there that lost their lives.

The first plaque reads: This was the home of Miklos and Blanka Zimmermann and their two children and the second notes the former home of Lajos and Margit Zimmerman. The signs also go on to note the Zimmerman family’s long history of involvement in: the cultivation, production and marketing of Tokaji wines, since the early 1800s. 

The two bottles of 1889 Tokaji Essencia, Zimmerman Lipot being offered for sale at Dreweatts are therefore exceptionally rare and are almost a slice of history. Mark Roberston, Head of the Wine department at Dreweatts says, “One can almost distil the political history of Europe in the 19th and 20th century through Tokaji” and regarding the wine itself he comments; “The free run juice of the aszu grapes can take 6 or 7 years to ferment fully to a maximum 3-7%. This supernatural concentration of sweetness is beautifully married with an unusual level of acidity creating a wine that can age effortlessly across the centuries. Traditionally served on a crystal spoon, what an experience awaits”.

Michael Broadbent, MW describes it as follows, “Several consistent notes. Most memorably, on my first visit to Budapest in 1972, with Josef Dömöter, Head of the Hungarian Wine Trust and Fred May, the UK Monimpex importer. Neither had ever tasted an old Eszencia before.

I opened it in Herr Dömöter’s office, to great wonder and satisfaction, and took the remaining half the following morning to Tokaj, where, in Tarcal, I had lunch with the technical Head of the Research Institute for Viticulture. He didn’t like it! Briefly: a deep, warm amber; glorious fragrance, rich, chocolatey, spicy; sweet of course, plump, concentrated taste of singed sultanas, excellent acidity.
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Last tasted in Leiden Nov 1982 *****”

Mark Robertson concludes, “These are important bottles and I hope they are enjoyed with a chink of the glass to the man and his family who made them”. They carry an estimate of £500-£1,000 per 500 ml bottle and will be sold in two separate lots.
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Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: acidity, aroma, auction, bottles, fermentation, flavor, Germany, kosher, Master of Wine, mw, New York, rare, spice, sweet, tokaji, vineyard, viticulture, winemaker, wineries

Bubbly with #ClinkDifferent

July 9, 2021 by evebushman

The latest educational wine tasting event from Clink Different “celebrated all things sparkling from Germany and Bordeaux (with) a virtual tasting of Crémant de Bordeaux and German Sekt.” We were greeted in the Zoom presentation by Cecile Ha from the Bordeaux Council. Ha shared that both Germany and Bordeaux created white, red and sparkling wines, benefitted from a young generation of both male and female winemakers, and both are also well known for healthy tourism in their respective wine regions. Ha then introduced our host for the event, New York Sommelier and Martha Stewart Living wine expert Sarah Tracey.

Tracey shared that all of the four sparkling wines we were to taste “checked off all of the boxes” in being delicious, fun and affordable. She had presented a food pairing for each sparkler which I will share in our tasting notes below. For this tasting I enlisted help from local pals and Friends Who Like Wine in The Glass founders Vashti and Stephen Roebuck.

The Bubbles

Celene NV Cuvee Amethyste

60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc. Region/AOC: Crémant de Bordeaux. SRP: $12. Importer: Fine Wine and Good Spirits.

From Tracey: Bordeaux Crémant AOC can be made with both white and red Bordeaux grapes, they spend 12 months in traditional aging methods and there are 214 growers in the appellation. This example was a Blanc de Noir, meaning a white wine from red grapes, and should be drunk within one to two years of bottling. Aromas and flavors: yellow plums, persimmon, honeysuckle. Suggested pairing: green olives, oysters, something salty/briny and creamy.

From our group: We found the choice of red Bordeaux grapes unique, but the flavor was all sparkling with no hint of red fruit: apple, French toast, sweet Meyer lemon, white peach and wet pebbles. A steal and a conversation starter for $12.

 

Markus Molitor NV Riesling Sekt

100% Riesling. Region/AOC: Mosel. SRP: $19. Importer: Banville Wine Merchants.

From Tracey: Sekt is the word for sparkling in German and there are different quality levels. In the 1800s German winemakers traveled to France to learn how to make sparkling wine. The Mosel region is known for Riesling, is the oldest, has very steep inclines and red volcanic slate soil. Aromas and flavors: Pear, peach, white pepper and nectarine. Suggested pairing: Prosciutto due to its fat and saltiness, working well against the acidity in the wine.

From our group: Cantaloupe melon, biscuit, cool asphalt and milk aromas, with flavors of peach, Red Delicious apple, sweet creamed corn and a nicely carbonated 7 Up. I’d totally buy this one for $19.

 

Calvet 2018 Brut Rose

100% Cabernet Franc. Region/AOC: Crémant de Bordeaux. SRP: $18. Importer: Monsieur Touton.

From Tracey: 31% of Crémant de Bordeaux are Rose wines, with over 100 wine growers planting specifically for Rose Crémant. There has been a 13% increase in the past 10 years making Rose. The grapes for this wine were manually harvested and manually pressed. Aromas and flavors: Raspberry, wild strawberry and tannins. Suggested pairing: milk chocolate with 40% to 50% cacao, the tannins in both make the pairing work. Also goes well with Prosciutto.

From our group: Very pretty rose gold color with bubbles racing their way to the top of my glass. On the nose there was icy peach, cantaloupe melon, red berries and wet river rock; followed by flavors of freshly sliced peaches, more melon including Honeydew, sweet ripe pears and an interesting minerality that played on my palate for a long finish.

 

Raumland Cuvee Marie-Luise Brut 2013

100% Pinot Noir. Region/AOC: Rheinhessen. SRP: $46. Importer: German Wine Collection.

From Tracey: This wine is made by “The Pope of Sekt”, has a cooling influence from the climate as well as chalky soil. This was the “premium” wine in the line-up. Aromas and flavors: fresh, minerality, saltiness. Suggested pairing: Drunken Goat cheese and any other “zingy” cheeses.

From our group: Green apple, cheese toast, almond cookie, white peach, Hawaiian ginger flower, citrus oil and hints of crisp slate. This was the favorite amongst the people in the Zoom tasting.

 

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: aoc, aroma, Bordeaux, brut, bubbles, Cabernet Franc, cheese, chocolate, clink different, cremant, education, flavor, food pairing, friends who like wine in the glass, Germany, Merlot, Mosel, olive oil, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Rose, sekt, somm, sommelier, Sparkling wine, tasting notes, wine grower, wine pairing, Wine tasting, winemaker

Variety in Varietals: The “Rainbow” of Wine Choices from Bordeaux and Germany from Clink Different

June 4, 2021 by evebushman

Did you know that there is a campaign to raise awareness about some of the “unsung heroes” from wine regions in Bordeaux and Germany? Clink Different, the perfect name in my opinion, started up in 2019, was pretty much frozen like everything else in 2020, and now for 2021 has begun anew.

I was recently invited onto a Zoom presentation called “Variety in Varietals” to taste four unsung heroes, while learning from Steffan Schlinder, of the German Wine Institute, and Cristie Norman, the President and Founder of the United Sommeliers Foundation. I will begin by sharing some of my notes of what we learned from Norman and Schlinder and then the tasting notes and food pairings provided by Norman, as well as some of my own notes.

What We Learned

Schlinder opened the meeting by sharing the similarities between the two wine growing regions: both are over 200 years old, both have cool climates and both are experienced in the industry. Varietals in Germany are divided by one third red and two thirds white. Orange wines are one example of a wine being made in both areas.

Norman explained that we don’t always have to enjoy only first growth wine Bordeaux, and that Germany and Bordeaux “have an entire rainbow of different wines to choose from”. Her theory on food and wine pairing is similar to decorating a home: pieces have to fit together, there needs to be balance, opposites and a respect for key elements. As far as wine costs, all of the four wines we were to taste were priced accessibly.
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Norman said that cult wines have become “astronomically expensive” and through her experience as a restaurant sommelier she has learned that people want to try new wines. She then led us through the wines.

Tasting the Wines and Food Pairing Suggestions

Of the four varietals below which is new for you? Norman asked that same question in our Zoom presentation.
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The only varietal I didn’t recall having had before was the Lemberger, now a varietal I will be looking for again.

And her mention about prices really sprang out as all of these wines cost less than what I expected them to be. Yep, that means I liked them all, and I would certainly buy these wines. (Notes: tasting notes and pairings are Norman’s, my additions are in italics.)

Silvaner: Weingut Strub 2019 Silvaner Trocken

SRP: $19. Green apple, cantaloupe, wet rock; with a medium acidity and freshness. Pair with salad, stir-fry, oysters; Indian food. This was my favorite wine in the line-up. And yes, we did enjoy with Indian food later!

Sauvignon Blanc: Dourthe 2019 La Grande Cuvée Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc

SRP: $14. Lemon, grapefruit, cheese rind; limeade, green apple and a mild salinity. Pair with cream-based sauce over pasta, steamed clams, goat cheese; I agreed that this wine would do well with any cream sauce, and due to the ocean spray-ish salinity maybe even with some shellfish. We enjoyed the rest of the bottle poolside.

Lemberger: Schnaitmann 2017 Steinwiege Lemberger

SRP: $37. This wine, also referred to as a Blaufrankisch in the past but not so much today, had notes of blackberry, elderberry, sweet and sour cherries, vegetal; spices, dried red berries, a slight medicinal, a light red. Pair with duck, pasta with a red sauce, Chicken Shawarma; charcuterie and hard cheeses.

Petit Verdot: Château Belle-Vue 2018 Petit Verdot

SRP: $25. Blackberry, red and black cherry, black plum, grilled meat, vanilla, cream, purple flowers; big, bold, tannic, black pepper, spice on the nose, very dry. Pair with aged Gouda, skirt steak, Philadelphia Cheese Steak; I thought it would be great with a rich beef stew.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: aroma, Bordeaux, flavor, food pairing, Germany, petit verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, sommelier, tasting notes, varietal, variety, wine growing, wine pairing, Wine tasting

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Eve Bushman

Eve Bushman, owner Eve’s Wine 101 and Eve Bushman Consulting.

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