Eve's Wine 101

Discovering the White Wine Winery Acquiesce, a Lodi Treasure

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In planning a recent Napa trip one of my friends suggested we spend a day in Lodi. The last time I visited Lodi was virtually, when several winemakers came to LA to present a seminar and tasting. It was so long ago, possibly ten years, that all I recall was tasting old vine Zinfandels, a wine the area was known for.

We visited four wineries that day. All had at least one or more wines that I enjoyed from whites to old vine Zinfandels. One winery stood out. First because they only make white Rhone varietals (some which were new to me) and one rose, but as I tasted through their lineup, and made my notations, it turned out that every single wine I tried I wanted to buy.

Fast forward to planning this trip. I went to the LA Wine Writers group on Facebook and asked my associates who I should visit. Then I reached out to Lodi.com to help me plan the trip. As I only had one day I wanted to focus on the wines alone, there would be no time for winery or vineyard tours. We also invited Steve and Vashti Roebuck (wine bloggers, collectors and admins of the popular Wine in the Glass Facebook group) to join us.

Acquiesce Winery

This is an excerpt from my upcoming article in SCV Elite Magazine, “The first on my list to try was a winery recommended to me by more than one wine loving pal: Acquiesce Winery. We were awestruck by all of the gorgeous white wines, and one Rose, during our “Elevated Tasting Experience” there. Many are award winners from respected competitions: 2020 Ingenue, 2021 Grenache Rose, 2020 Bourboulenc, 2020 Clairette Blanche, 2021 Picpoul Blanc, 2021 Viognier, 2020 and 2021 Grenache Blanc. Don’t miss these Chateauneuf du Pape inspired Rhônes by winemaker Susan Tipton.” Here is the link to the social media post that also includes notes and photos from Acquiesce and other Lodi wineries we visited that day.

To expand, the Elevated Tasting Experience, seen here in the photo by Steve Roebuck, was a great pairing! (Not every food and wine pairing is spot on but theirs was.) And for Steve Roebuck and me, as it’s our practice to sample wines without food, it was difficult not to sample those small bites. But the wine…oh how I wish I could have lingered there all day. Also of note: most of these wines were less than $30 each.

The Pairing

We began with the 2021 Picpoul Blanc paired with Italian salsa, Spenker Goat Ricotta Tartine. Next was their 2021 Grenache Rose alongside Radish Tartine with Butter (butter is always a good choice!) and Cracked Pepper. Our third was the 2020 Grenache Blanc with Asparagus (a hard vegetable to pair), Ricotta, Preserved Lemons on Pumpernickel and then our final pairing with the 2020 Clairette Blanche with a Dijon Tarragon Tuna, Tomato, Tartine on Rye. All pretty simple and simply delish. (Note: this was their April Pairing Menu, titled “We Love Tartines” and their May pairing was geared toward the recent Cinco de Mayo holiday. So know that you will most likely have a different menu when you visit – don’t forget to make reservations – but I would make a bet that it would be just as yum-worthy. And when I last checked their website for the price it was only $20!)

Tasting Notes Courtesy Steve Roebuck:

2021 Picpoul Blanc

Score: 92 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Picpoul Blanc

Wafting from my glass was an elegant bouquet of fresh cut apples, pears, lemon curd, crushed seashells, wet river rocks and a touch of lemon grass. The wine had nice acidity with a crisp palate giving way to hints of green apple, pears, melon, citrus oil, lemon grass, crushed minerals, and a soft note of dill on the finish with a splash of lemon. The wine is beautifully balanced with fresh orchard fruits and crisp minerals that seamlessly intertwine together. 

2021 Grenache Rose

Score: 92 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Grenache Noir

This light salmon colored wine had a lovely bouquet of strawberries, melon, raspberries, Jolly Roger candy and dried hay bale. The wine had a nice level of acidity that brought balance to a palate painted with strawberries, watermelon, cherry, lemon zest and crushed gravel. The wine was refreshingly crisp with a beautiful layering of fruits and bright terroir notes. This wine is reminiscent of a French Provence rose wine; thus, an elegant and sophisticated style. 

2020 Grenache Blanc

Score:  93 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend:  100% Grenache Blanc

The wine had an expressive bouquet of cut apples, white peach, cut almonds, wet river rocks, chalky minerals and a note of marzipan. The wine is full bodied with a nice level of acidity, giving way to hints of green apple, white peach, wet slate, chalky minerals and a finish with softly brined apricots. This vivacious wine had lovely layers of fruit that harmoniously blended with the wonderful terroir notes. 

2020 Clairette Blanche

Score:  93 Points

Location:  Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Clairette Blanche

This rare beauty had an eloquent bouquet of poached pears, apricots, white tea, ginger cookie, marzipan, dried herbs, grapefruit and soft hints of yellow beeswax.  The wine is full-bodied with bright acidity that gives way to a palate painted with mixed orchard fruits, crisp minerals, light spice, fresh herbs and a touch of white fig on the finish. There is beauty here with a tapestry of fruit, exotic spice, and lovely terroir notes. 

2020 Ingenue

Score: 94 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Ingenue

The wine had a floral bouquet of white flowers, poached pears, apple pie crust, kiwi, orange blossoms, cut almonds, dried herbs, lemon and crushed minerals. The wine was medium-bodied with lovely acidity that brightened the palate with hints of fresh apple, honeydew melon, vanilla, soft citrus oil, crushed gravel and a drop of honey on the finish. The wine is complex with beautiful layers of fruit and earth that harmonize wonderfully together. 

2020 Bourboulenc

Score: 91 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Bourboulenc

This wine had a lovely bouquet of green apples, pears, white peach, lemon grass, chamomile tea and a splash of brine. The wine had nice acidity that gave way to hints of white peach, sliced apple, lime, beeswax, and white pepper. The wine is refreshing and crisp on the palate with soft notes of spice and orchard fruits. 

2021 Viognier

Score: 95 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Viognier

The wine had an alluring bouquet of white flowers, lavender, jasmine, pears, peaches, honeysuckle, white pepper, crushed stone and a touch of pineapple. The wine is medium ++ in body with a beautiful level of acidity that gives way to hints of tropical and orchard fruits, honeysuckle, exotic spice, soft brine, river rocks, and a kiss of citrus. The wine is complex with harmonizing layers of fruit and earth that play beautifully together. The wine is reminiscent of a French Rhone, as it is showing in an old-world style. 

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The winemaker and owner, Susan Tipton, led our tasting. She told us that they started ten years ago, after she fell in love with white Chateauneuf du Pape wines. Her vineyards are all estate-owned and are dedicated to white wine grapes alone. None are oaked. The area has a Mediterranean climate, warm days, cool nights and a Delta breeze.

We purchased a case of wine each, the Roebucks and us, and I’ve since been looking over the club membership: six bottles delivered twice a year, in April and October, 20% off any purchases, complimentary tastings at the winery and invitations to release parties and pick up events.

Read this to see how well their wines did at the recent San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. (Short answer: They won four Best of Class Awards – and over 5,800 wines were judged.)

From the Winery

Do you love white wines? Located in the Lodi Appellation we offer estate grown, award-winning premium white and rosé wines lovingly created in small batches. We carefully craft these unique wines: Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc, Belle Blanc and Ingénue (white blends) and a Grenache Rosé. Join us by appointment, Thursday – Sunday 11-5 for our Elevated Tasting Experience

Elevated Tasting Experience reservations à https://www.exploretock.com/acquiescewinery

Homepage
https://www.facebook.com/AcquiesceWinery
https://www.instagram.com/acquiescewinery/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

What Number Gin Is In? The 209th!

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In just reading the front of the bottle I learned that NO 209 Gin is distilled in San Francisco, “5 X D” (five times distilled) with a 46% ABC and 91 proof. From the back I read that since 1882 they made their gin in the Napa Valley and are the 209th registered distillery that had opened in the United States. It’s a grain neutral spirit made from natural botanicals. And as I’m a gin lover, and the botanicals are what makes different gins of interest to me, I went to their website for more details.

And…the recipe is a secret. But I did learn that, “The delicious complexity of No. 209’s citrus spice flavor profile is primarily a result of bergamot orange, lemon peel, cardamom pods, cassia bark, angelica root and coriander seeds….”

My Tasting Notes

After opening and pouring a sample I noticed the juniper aromas, from about three or four inches away, but it wasn’t overpowering in any way. That just got me excited! Starting with a mild creamy component the citrus notes that were mentioned in the recipe – orange and lemon – were very apparent.

Then thinking about my spice rack here at home, as well as other botanicals and minerals, there were other aromas that reminded me of wet pebbles in a brook, vanilla bean, white pepper, dried pineapple, white chocolate and maybe even a squeeze of a red berry like raspberry or strawberry.

Tasting No 209 called up memories of a creamy 50/50 orange and vanilla ice cream Creamsicle bar – if said ice cream had booze in it! Also, one of those milk chocolate orange balls, a slice, as both flavors present. Ooh, this was different. There was a super long and satisfying finish to go with it too.

Thinking this would make a fine Gin and Tonic, as well as a sipper just over ice, and of course, an excellent Martini with either a cap of Dolin’s vermouth or Lillet Blanc. Ended up making a Martini on the rocks with a splash of La Quintinye Blanc Royal vermouth. Sipped on that for over an hour…

I did check the cocktail recipe section of their website and saw nearly three hundred recipes  – who knew there were that many – under their “Ginthusiast Guide.” The White Manhattan, Coin Flip, and a few others sounded tempting, and this one I thought I’d share:

Pineapple Gin Fizz

  • 1 1/2 Oz. No. 209 Gin
  • 1 Oz. Pineapple Juice
  • 3/4 Oz. Simple Syrup
  • 3/4 Oz. Lime Juice
  • 1/2 Oz. Egg White
  • 2 Oz. Tonic

Combine all ingredients except tonic and dry shake. Shake again with ice. Pour over ice, and top with Tonic Water. Garnish with pineapple fronds.

https://www.distillery209.com/cocktails

More To Taste

I went back to the website one last time and saw that they also have a Sauvignon Blanc barrel reserve gin, a Chardonnay barrel reserve gin, Cabernet Sauvignon barrel reserve gin and a Kosher gin for Passover too. Which do you want to try?

https://www.distillery209.com/

https://www.instagram.com/distillery209/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Quintessa Introduces Inaugural Decade Release with 2010 Vintage

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ST. HELENA, CALIF. (PRWEB) – Quintessa is honored to announce its inaugural Decade Release, a library release that consists of a limited number of bottles of 2010 Quintessa set aside to evolve for one decade in the caves where it originated. First made exclusively available to Quintessa Vineyard Circle members in 3-packs of 750ml bottles and in 1.5 L (magnum) bottles, the Quintessa Decade Release is now available in highly limited quantities in the wholesale market.

Convinced that Quintessa had all the quality elements as an estate to be a true Napa Valley classic, the only thing missing was an understanding of the wine’s capacity to age and improve with time. So in the summer of 2012, shortly after bottling the 2010 vintage, proprietors Agustin and Valeria Huneeus decided to set aside a limited number of bottles of the 2010 vintage to rest undisturbed in perfect conditions without leaving the estate.

“Wine has the capacity to reflect a place like no other, as grapes have the singularity of being fully connected to where the vines grow, including the soil, geology and the unique climatic conditions of that particular vintage,” said Estate Director Rodrigo Soto. “The resulting wine is a time capsule, and over the decade that this wine has transformed in the bottle, it clearly demonstrates that the evolution is not only real but also special and unique.”

The 2010 vintage is evidence of this incredible transformation, with black bright cherry and floral layers to dried herbs, anise & violets. From a supple silky texture to integrated layers of spice, followed by a long mineral finish. Having the time to age wine in the bottle brings balance and multiple dimensions to the glass, making the pleasure of drinking wine a completely different experience.

The 2010 growing season in the Napa Valley began with cooler than average temperatures and plentiful rainfall, which pushed bud break, flowering and fruit set back nearly two weeks. Mild, cool temperatures continued into summer which made meticulous canopy management essential to encourage consistent flavor development. Two late summer heat spikes helped the small, concentrated berries develop toward a later than average harvest.

At twenty years old in 2010, Quintessa’s biodynamic and organically farmed vines had the knowledge to work with mother nature and thrive through the seasons. Beginning on October 5th, the fruit from the Quintessa property was harvested with patience and precision to create a wine of elegance and balance, worthy of the first Decade Release.

To acquire or learn more, please visit quintessa.com/decade-release. For media inquiries, please contact Josh Zoland (jzoland@colangelopr.com) or Rachel Keigley (rkeigley@colangelopr.com) of Colangelo & Partners.

About Quintessa – http://www.quintessa.com
Quintessa is a world-class wine estate in the heart of Rutherford, Napa Valley. Inspired by the old-world Estate model, Quintessa crafts a single wine each year that expresses the Estate’s diversity and transforms the soil, vines, climate and energy into something greater than those individual elements. In order to capture the purest expression of place, Quintessa has practiced organic techniques since its founding in 1989 and transitioned to biodynamic practices in 1996.

When founders Agustin and Valeria Huneeus first set foot on the pristine, uncultivated property, they believed they had found something absolutely unique from what they had seen in Napa before. They knew that the land, spread over five hillsides, with different soil types and exposures, encompassed tremendous diversity that would lead Quintessa to become a world-class wine estate akin to the first growths of the Old World. Today, the Estate is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carménère on 26 vineyard blocks. Since its first vintage in 1994, Quintessa has quickly become globally recognized as a benchmark of the Napa Valley.

Vintage Eve Circa 5/2016: NASA Wine Education, Champagne AOC, Part One

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In an ongoing effort to educate myself and wine 101 readers I recently attended an “intensive seminar covering regulations, styles, crus, villages” of Champagne, France.

Diego Meraviglia, the Director of Education for the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), led the class. And this article, part one of two as there was that much to learn (and taste), includes all of my “takeaways.”

What can be called Champagne

Champagne is from a “phenomenal wine region that speaks for itself in the wine world…” Diego began. So when you have a Champagne tasting party, if you are being faithful to the term, you can’t bring Cava, Prosecco or any other version – even one made in the Champagne method. Simply put, if it’s not from Champagne, France, from an approved area for grape growing, from specific approved grapes and other laws regarding harvest weren’t followed – it can’t be called Champagne.

The name, unfortunately, is associated more with a specific wine style (bubbles) than it is the geographical denomination of AOC Champagne, France. (Note: AOC stands for Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée – the Controlled Name of Origin.)

History of Champagne

Born almost by mistake, by a group of people in a region very far north, battling cold weather – they wanted to take control of their production. Romans planted the first vineyards – everywhere they went – in the 3rd century AD. In Reims, 987 AD, the first king of France was crowned in Reims. Wines were made there, and the region became known for crowning royalty. This is one reason why Champagne wine, and the region, was associated with royalty.

Champagne, by 1500, became a favorite for its elegance due to the bubbles, and continued to be favored by royalty. And another reason for it’s maintaining noble connotation to current day.

The cold climate created a more acidic, sourer, harsh wine. By the 17th and 18th centuries all that changed with Dom Perignon, who dedicated his life to the production of Champagne. (Did you know: Wines were exploding during the second fermentation process. Exorcists were sent to the cellars to do blessings to prevent explosions.) Dom Perignon studied, and eventually “tamed”, a very purposeful method in making Champagne.

By 1887 the word Champagne was fought for as the region’s designated name, and as the controlled denomination. By 1911 the “scale of the crus”, the villages, were counted up and divided by either premier or grand cru villages. This designation system was later abolished.

In 1927 the Champagne zoning was created, and by 1936 the zone was made official. No one, including New York that was making most of the sparkling in the Finger Lakes region, could use the name Champagne on their labels. The seal was created in 1941 for growers, producers, Negotiants – all there to protect the legacy.

About the Champagne Region and the Laws

Unique to Champagne: Dual oceanic and continental climates, with cold winters and warm summers, allowing for a large temperature swing that gives high acidic levels to the wine. While the chalky limestone soil, good for drainage, gives the unique trademark minerality that is discernible on the nose. (The area used to be an ancient seabed.) The area’s vines are on both rolling hills and steep slopes. And finally, Champagne is always at risk of frost at Spring.

Geography: 90 miles from Paris, 39 villages, four main grape growing sub-zone areas. And it’s the northernmost wine grape growing area in all of France.

Varietals: A mixture is still used by some; but the majority is Pinot Noir, followed by Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. You could grow something not designated by the AOC but it is illegal to produce something else and label it Champagne. And the parcels have to be approved to plant grapes.

Pinot Noir is 38% of the production, allowing for backbone and structure to the blend as well as cherry, strawberry, light tannin and color. Pinot Meunier makes up 32% of planting and provides roundness. It’s also frost and freeze resistant, so a necessity.  (Did you know: Meunier means Miller, named so as if a Miller left a dusting of flour on the grapes as that’s how they look.) Chardonnay, giving citrus and fruit flavors, also allow for roundness and creamy qualities, accounts for the remaining 30%.

Pruning, spacing, density of the vines – all of this is regulated by the AOC as well. Manual picking, maximum yield per hector, the minimum degree of ripeness you have to achieve – this is all set by the AOC.

(Part Two will run on this website next Friday, 5/14, and will include the Échelle des Crus rating system, Details, Myths and News and tasting notes for nine Champagnes.)

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

 

Hampton Water Wine Named to Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2018

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NEW YORK /PRNewswire/ — Hampton Water, the premium rosé label, created by award-winning music icon, Jon Bon Jovi, son Jesse Bongiovi, and acclaimed French Winemaker Gérard Bertrand, has been named the top ranked rosé and #83 wine in the world by Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2018.

Since launching in early 2018, Hampton Water has been recognized as one of the Top 5 Rosés in the world and received a 90-point rating from Wine Spectator earlier this year. This coveted accolade further distinguishes Hampton Water’s unprecedented first year.

“It’s an incredible honor to be on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2018, let alone ranked as the top rosé.  It’s a true testament to all of our hard work and I could not be more proud to share our excitement for, and love of, Hampton Water with people all over the world,” said Jon Bon Jovi. Jesse Bongiovi, Bon Jovi’s son and Co-Founder added, “To be recognized by this esteemed organization at all, especially in our first year, is a tremendous accomplishment. Thank you!”

The idea to create a wine, emblematic of a bon vivant lifestyle, emerged during time spent in the Hamptons, between father and son. Hampton Water is representative of that lifestyle – the sense of enjoying life and making memories with the people you love most. Bon Jovi and Bongiovi were introduced to Gérard Bertrand, and the three quickly developed a shared vision, to create a unique rosé, uniting the essence of the relaxed lifestyles of the Hamptons and the South of France.

“Jesse and Jon came to me with an idea. Together we decided to make a premium rosé wine which represents the perfect link between South of France and Hampton lifestyle,” said Gérard Bertrand. The idea for me was to create a real and friendly partnership and I was happy to share with them my 30 years of expertise blending and harvesting.  I am proud to see our first vintage listed as the best rosé wine in the Wine Spectator Top 100.”

“The Top 100 recognizes the most compelling wines that our editors have reviewed over the past year,” said Thomas Matthews, Executive Editor, Wine Spectator. “The state of wine is as strong and exciting as ever. We were particularly impressed with the continuing diversity of the wine world—more than half the wines are making their first appearance on our Top 100 list. We’re thrilled to share the rising stars, outstanding values and benchmark bottles from both traditional and emerging regions.
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Hampton Water is described as a fresh and lively rosé, with distinctive minerality. The wine is made up of the perfect blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre grape varieties distinctive of the French Mediterranean region of Languedoc.

Hampton Water is currently available in New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts, Connecticut, North Carolina, South Carolina, DC, Florida, Illinois and Nevada or online at  wineonsale.com, with further expansion in the United States and globally, in early 2019, at the retail price $25.

Tasting Dom Pérignon’s Finest with the North American Sommelier Association (NASA) Part Two

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Last week I gave you a little lesson on Dom Perignon courtesy of NASA president and US Brand Ambassador Diego Meraviglia. Today I’m sharing…what we tasted.

From NASA

BLIND TASTING dom perignonAS A TOAST TO THE ENDING 2017 VINTAGE, JOIN US FOR AN IN DEPTH GUIDED TASTING & SEMINAR ON DOM PERIGNON’s NEW VINTAGES AND OLDER RESERVE GEMS, STILL AVAILABLE ON THE MARKET. THE PRESENTATION & TASTING WILL INCLUDE RARITIES RARELY PULLED…(including the) ‘PLENITUDES’:

Dom Pérignon Blanc vintage 2009, Dom Pérignon Rose’ Vintage 2005, Dom Pérignon P2 vintage 2000, Dom Pérignon Rose’ P2 vintage 1995, + a surprise old vintage…

TASTING PRESENTED AND LED BY DOM PERIGNON US BRAND AMBASSADOR & NASA PRESIDENT, DIEGO MERAVIGLIA.

MY TASTING TAKEAWAYS (all quotes – except where I’ve mentioned Wine Spectator – are Diego’s)

P2 stands for Plentitudes and, according to Wine Spectator’s most recent tasting report on Champagne, “highlights the evolution of the house’s Champagnes after extended maturation on the lees.”

We tasted blind as the “bias is consistent” and you can never get a “complete objective” on how the wine tastes – I agree.

We tasted “the rare of the rare of the rare.”

The P1 Blanc revealed was a 2009 and described as a “voluptuous” wine with “minerality, curry, magnolia, brine, chalk, salt, toast, almonds, pineapple, mango, licorice” and a “mouthfeel” that is the hallmark of Dom Perignon.

The next wine, a 2005 P1 Rose, “was just released and could go another 40 years”…“emulates a red wine…with more weight (indicative) of a warm and wet vintage.” I got the notes of dried cherry and stem on this as I would on a Pinot Noir. It’s even possible that I would have thought it was a Pinot if the glass itself was hidden.

The third wine to taste, a Blanc P2 turned out to be the just released 2000. The extra years on the lees gives the wine “more pairing options” with notes of “forest floor, Brie, brine, spice, licorice, anise…(and would pair well with) “soft cheese and white meat like veal and pheasant.”

Our fourth wine was a 1996 P2 Rose with more strawberry color that could pair well with “beef, steak, duck…fruit tarts (and other) pastry (for its) fresh Burgundian flavors. This may have been my favorite and I joined the other somms and retailers in the room and drained my glass.

Our final wine, a surprise for all, turned out to be a 1995 P3 Blanc vintage that was released in 2015 that I found the color had honeyed with age, with notes of almond, fruit cocktail, pears in syrup as well as “toffee and mocha.” Had to agree that this wine was extremely vibrant and a pleasure to taste. As they all were.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Napa 2017 After The Fires: Hourglass

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Not sure how many locals had mentioned Hourglass Winery to me but enough that my whistle was sufficiently whetted. I sought out an appointment and, lucky for me, gained admission.

hourglassDriving up a small road off the Silverado Trail in Calistoga a small brass sign depicting an hourglass led me in the right direction. At the end of the drive we parked near a small private home and walked up to the winery. Its size and scope immediately impressed me, and I would soon attribute the same characteristics to CEO and Founder Jeff Smith: I would be blown away not only by an incredible tasting but also a vast winemaking knowledge I had yet to completely understand.

My hand whizzed over my notepad as fast as it could to keep up with Jeff’s family story, his own story and, when prompted by his mother that wanted him to prove himself worthy of turning her Calistoga property into a winery – his depth of understanding what it takes to make killer wine. Note to my winemaking friends: I have my notepad and you can read it all for yourself if you ask me nicely. Some of the notes I have shared here are designated as For The Wine Geek.

The cave we had our meeting in was created when extra dynamite was left over after making the barrel caves. Smith said something along the lines of, “We have extra dynamite, let’s blow something up!” And this cave was unlike any other I have seen, with fur covered chairs and inventive lighting…I kept waiting for the bear to show up. Which, now that I knew Smith’s sense of humor, he had a bear story too.

Jeff’s family moved to the area in 1964. St. Helena was a sleepy town until the Judgment of Paris. His father built the Wine Country Inn about a decade later. They planted fruit trees over the many acres of rocky land that they owned. It was at a cocktail party with Dan Duckhorn that his father was told he shouldn’t waste his time with fruit trees, he should plant Zinfandel vines – and he did. When Jeff’s father passed away in 1990 Jeff took over the vineyard. His mother was ready to sell by then, but that’s when Jeff convinced her to pull out the Zin to make room for Cab.

Jeff was only 26 at the time. He was fiddling around in college and in a band, but he was watching his neighbors. He decided to get some help from a pal at UC Davis, got them to look at his soil, and learned he did indeed have a great site.

Now here is where my notes veer into the geography of the land (streams, soil, gravel, minerals that combined would represent the “tip of narrow crossing” of an hourglass), the varietals grown (all five Bordeaux varietals), the mentors that would guide Jeff (Bob Foley helped with the early vintages, then came Tony Biagi who is the current winemaker) and his thirst (forgive the pun) in what seemed to me as a quest to learn it all.

For The Wine Geek: I asked about the use of the “cult” name and how it might relate to Hourglass. Jeff said there are only eight cult wineries, no more, and they are credited with defining a paradigm shift in winemaking and the high ph movement. And the movement “grew” out of the cult wine phenomenon.

Current Wines Available For Tasting (Note Blue Line and Hourglass are both separate estate wines, not a first and secondary label.)

2015 HG3 Hourglass Red Blend was what Jeff referred to as a “Bordelaise Stew”, it was different each year, with Merlot, Cabernet and one other, to-be-decided black fruit. The aromas alone that reminded me of incense Jeff said was sandalwood.

2015 Blueline Estate Cabernet Franc was destined to be my favorite. With aromas of wet gravel, a juicy palate and cigar – Jeff said this wine would only develop over time.

For the 2015 Blueline Estate Cabernet Sauvignon this time I got aromas of next day Bolognese spaghetti sauce, only because the second day is so much better than the first. The spice, blue to black fruit and killer aromatics brought up…you guessed it…a lesson in how those aromatics develop. For The Wine Geek: Somehow they can stop/suspend the polymerization during fermentation to shorten the tannins. “Unresolved tannins” is like that tea bag that steeped for too long. A “wet chemist”, that would be hired from veraison onward, would be the person to manage (and explain better than I can) this suspension process.

2014 Hourglass Estate Cabernet Sauvignon tasted like it was ten years older than a 2014, very mature I thought. Jeff said that “maturity was a function of the vineyard.” The wine would develop more of that “cigar box” in time and it’s the richness, medium acidity and minerality that makes you want to go in for that next sip. For The Wine Geek: Hourglass has never had an acid adjustment. The saving grace of Blueline is the minerality. Tannins bond with “salivary protein.”

A 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Hourglass Estate was the wine we finished with, and while whites are usually served first when we had this last I thought: what a great palate refresher. Made with 20% new oak, neutral oak and stainless steel I got a nice lime on the nose with balanced acidity and fresh fruit that lingered on the palate. I only wished I could’ve started tasting through these wines all over again. For The Wine Geek: The length of this wine came from the fruit. There was no “cat piss” odor as they have a warm climate that equals “less piss.”

Lastly, For The Wine Geek: As we were just about to say our goodbyes we got into a discussion about what influences people about wine. Jeff said that winemaker Clark Smith (Clark was in Santa Clarita once for a holiday tasting at Valencia Wine Co. where I met him the first time, and a second time when we judged together for the Long Beach Grand Cru.) did a “chemistry class” where different music was played while each person judged a wine. After more than three tries in rating the same wines in the same order – but with different music – Jeff got different results. He remembered what he had rated the wine before, and the wines were in the same order, but his results were still different! Beach Boys, jazz, hard rock, classic, classic with a modal change…each presented a new result. Jeff said his notes would “flip again and again” and possibly due to “input creating a change in the chemical pathways…” Totally going to try this myself!

#NapaFire

No one in the Hourglass family lost their home, however two of their consultants did. The winemaking crew stayed on, lost power at one point and a neighbor helped them out. When their neighbor lost their power next, Hourglass was able to help them. The fire ran 100 feet per second according to CDF. They did lose some fruit from Sonoma that would’ve been used for HG3.

Tasting at Hourglass

Our goal with winery visits is to immerse the enthusiast in the art of what we do. We seek to create an intimate experience that will deliver a greater depth of knowledge of winemaking in general and a look behind the scenes at how we apply that craft. When you visit with us, plan on an hour to an hour and a half immersion that will take you into the core of the winery to include a tasting of aging wines at rest in barrel and current bottled releases. The experience will be guided by either Proprietor Jeff Smith, Operations Manager Marybeth Egner, or Director of Private Clients Ian Fenwick, all of whom have deep knowledge of Napa Valley and are well versed in every aspect of our winemaking…read more.

https://www.hourglasswines.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Perlis Picks: From Abe Schoener — Wine Study in the Loire: Lessons in the Foundation of Winemaking – Part Three

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A Continuation of Abe Schoener’s [The Scholium Project]…

A NEW LESSON IN THE MORAL NATURE OF WINEMAKING: LES JARDINS DES ESMÉRALDINS

The Wines: Transcendental and somehow Historical at once

abe schoener you tube

Abe Schoener via YouTube

When we taste, he is very eager for our impressions, our reactions. He watches our faces, especially our eyes, carefully. He is clearly proud of how old the wines are: 2004– it was so fresh; I knew that it was not a 2016 from barrel, but perhaps a 2015? No, 2004; bottled in 2010. Totally fresh, punchy, dense but light on its feet at once.

  1. Bottled in 2008. Equally fresh. Showing the beginning of what you could call bottle age. Then, he pulls out and pours a wine that is slightly golden by comparison– 1999. “The first wine that I ever made.” We cannot believe that he is sharing a bottle with us.

This wine too is absolutely fresh, vigorous, even electric. The wine is perhaps more viscous than the others, and more golden to the eye– but not tired or even maturing in the mouth. The wines are complete and developed– and in this sense, mature– but there is no sense that the first two wines have aged at all, and it is hard to place the bottles in time in any way. They are, in this respect transcendental, which is difficult for wine– but they have dates. 1999 was the first year that I made wine too; it is hard for such a wine not to seem historical in this respect. How can a winemaker’s first wine not be historical?

We taste a red wine from 2004 and another early white, from 2001, that finished primary fermentation in bottle (by surprise). Both wines were very good, even great in some way– but it was so hard to come back and down from the 1999, the wine of origin. He calls all of the wines: “Genèse”– Genesis. The winery is the Gardens of Emeralds; the wines are Genesis White and Genesis Red.

All of the wines have intensity– particularly in what you might call “minerality.
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” They are saline and have the body and density that comes from fruit– but they do not taste or smell of fruit. Nor do they smell of yeast, in spite of their long lees contact. Nor do they seem oxidized. Even the 1999, opened 15 days ago, was fresh and yellow– no more golden than many Chenins only a couple of years old.

You could say that the wines are rocky– but you must somehow also mean that they are graceful. You could point to nuts and nut skins, and high-acid, young champagne, but you would have to be careful not to simplify too much. It is also worth saying that the wines taste and smell reduced, but that this is not an overwhelming sensation; and that there is no trace of VA at all, or, at most, perhaps one senses some acetic in the mouth, but nothing else, and certainly nothing acetate-y. The wines do not have the markers of wines that stand out as “natural” and seem utterly classical in spite of their unconventional origins.

Lastly, the wines have no typicity for me. I cannot identify the whites as Chenin (though they are not so far from what Eben Sadie sometimes accomplishes by rather different means). I cannot place them as Loire wines.
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This does not bother Xavier at all. He is in fact proud of this. Even though he is a super careful farmer, he is not interested in revealing or somehow representing the vineyards. There is clearly an unbroken continuity for him between the vines and the wine, but he nonetheless does not feel that he respects this continuity by seeking typicity, or by making single vineyard wines. Neither holds any interest for him.

He suggests, with both pride and mischief in his eyes, that the wines would be hard to identify in a blind tasting. When I agree and tell him that the 1999 reminds me of old first growth Bordeaux, he is clearly pleased– not because he cares at all about old Bordeaux, but because my mind roamed.

To be continued…

Vinome Launches First DNA-based Wine Experience

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HEALDSBURG, Calif.  – Vinome isn’t your garden-variety curated wine service. Founded in 2015 by a team of genetic scientists and wine experts, the first DNA-based wine experience harnesses the longstanding science of taste to pair wine lovers and wine discoverers with boutique wine selections on a much deeper level. Using DNA. Vino + genome = Vinome.

Vinome Founders

Vinome Founders

“After years of analyzing DNA to develop medicines for cancer, we started thinking,” said Sara Riordan, Vinome co-founder, “if there’s a gene that tells you whether you like Brussels sprouts or not, and whether you like cilantro or not, why aren’t we using genetics to tell people whether they would favor a certain wine?”

Vinome does just that. The profoundly personalized wine experience analyzes the nuances of taste preferences, along with 10 genetic markers related to smell and taste to identify eight unique Vinome taste profiles. Customer results will reveal primary wine flavor affinities along with how likely they are to respond to flavors such as traces of leather, minerals, honeysuckle, and more. From the bright, crisp citrus flavors of Vibrant Grove to the rich and complex flavors of The Big Bold, customers can shop for hard-to-find bottles curated specifically for their Vinome in the online store, or join the quarterly wine club. Either way, Vinome delivers direct to their doorstep.

“To date, we have developed relationships with boutique wineries in California, Oregon and Washington,” said Shannon Kieran, also a Vinome co-founder. “These are wines that are routinely rated favorably by the industry, though they are not typically sold in grocery stores or wine outlets. They’re amazing wines.”

Vinome is one of the first companies to apply the science of taste and the vast body of genetic research to a new and broadly accessible experience –a groundbreaking connection between a person’s DNA and lifestyle.

Ronald Andrews, Vinome co-founder and CEO, has spent most of his career in the molecular diagnostics industry. “The rigor around the science has been strong and thorough, and we’re proud of the time we have spent to get it right,” he said.

The Vinome process is quick and easy. Customers sign up online, take a taste preference survey and in a few days will receive a saliva kit and instructions. A postage paid envelope is provided for sending the sample to the lab, and in just a few weeks, they will receive their Vinome and access to the online store and wine club.

For more information or to start your Vinome journey, visit Vinome.com. Or find us on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and YouTube at @myvinome.

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About Vinome

Founded in 2015, Vinome is the ultimate personalized wine experience. Created by a team of genetic scientists and wine experts, Vinome uses DNA insights, the science of taste and taste preference information to pair wine lovers and wine discoverers with wines they love. Shop for hard-to-find boutique bottles in the online store, or join the quarterly wine club. Either way, Vinome delivers direct to your doorstep. Disrupting the direct-to-consumer wine industry, Vinome has piqued the interest of Fast Company, The Atlantic, Fox Business, British Airways Business Life and Thrillist.

For more information or to start your Vinome journey, visit Vinome.com. Or find us on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and YouTube at @myvinome.

Color Up Your Summer with Brazilian Wines

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New York, NY – Attention, wine lovers: the Wines of Brazil have made their way to the U.S. and are ready to take the country by storm. Internationally celebrated for its soccer players and its Rio Carnival, Brazil is also home to a variety of flavorful wines that will delight American consumers in search of young and fresh wines, at great value for money.

The Drinks Wholesaler magazine

Photo: The Drinks Wholesaler magazine

In a region known for its at times excessively powerful wines, Brazil stands out for its production of lighter, friendly and easy-drinking wines. Brazilian wines offer a surprising and high-quality alternative to your usual wines choices, being generally pressed from the varietals you love: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, both still or sparkling. Embodying the soul of the country, Brazilian wines are lively, aromatic and colorful, and will be the life of the party!

Brazilian Sparkling wines – the taste of celebrations

Shake up your habits and pop a Brazilian sparkling wine for your next festivities. Characterized by an exceptional acidity and freshness, they are ultimate crowd-pleasures. Many of the producers follow the méthode traditionnelle – the same as Champagne – Brazilian sparkling wines are mainly produced from Chardonnay, Italic Riesling, Pinot Noir and Muscat. Aromatic and vivacious, they can be enjoyed on their own as an aperitif, or with all kinds of every day food such as sushi and light salads.

Brazilian Red wines – the flavor of passion

Brazilian reds will delight every red wine lover: from fruity to earthier reds, the region is home to a palette of vibrant reds pressed mostly from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, which produce elegant and structured wines. With lower alcohol contents than similar New World wines (around 11-12.5%), they can be sipped during the day, without fears of headiness. The wines’ aromatic flavors combined with mild tannins make them a perfect addition to the dinner table: fresh and young, they will not overwhelm your meal’s flavors. Sip them with a BBQ-grilled meat to feel like a proper Brazilian enjoying a churrasco, the country’s iconic ember-grilled steak.

A look inside Brazil

There are six wine regions in Brazil, covering an almost 2,500-mile distance along the country’s eastern border. 90% of the wineries are in Rio Grande do Sul, the state located in the southernmost part of Brazil,  bordering Uruguay. The state is also on the same latitude as Argentina and South Africa:

  • Serra Gaúcha – the leading region in terms of production, representing 85% of all wines produced in Brazil, it is recognized for its fruity reds and fine sparkling wines. The basaltic soil, humid climate and mild nights produce wines with a distinctive personality.
  • Campos de Cima da Serra – known for its aromatic whites, and elegant and sophisticated reds, the region enjoys moderate temperatures and consistent winds, which guarantee healthy vines.
  • Serra do Sudeste – celebrated for its low-yield vines and delicate wines with great minerality, this mountainous region is recognized as one of the most promising wine areas in Brazil.
  • Campanha – located in the south, bordering Uruguay and Argentina, the region is devoted to vinifera grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, but also Tannat and Tempranillo, and is recognized for its flavorful reds.
  • Planalto Catarinense – known for its high-altitude vineyards, Planalto Catarinense is celebrated for its fresh still and sparkling whites. The region is also developing an interesting  organic and biodynamic wine production.
  • Vale Do São Francisco – the most northern vineyard in Brazil, its grapes have higher sugar levels, creating bold and fruity wines. The region is also known for its full-bodied reds, high-quality Moscato sparkling wines and exceptional yields with two harvests a year.

About Wines of Brasil

Wines of Brasil, is an organization that represents 34 wineries that produce wines in six appellations: Serra Gaúcha, Campos de Cima da Serra, Serra do Sudeste, Campanha, Planalto Catarinense, Vale Do São Francisco.

The main mission of the Wines of Brasil project is to promote the quality of Brazilian wines in the international market. To achieve this goal, its work starts within the wineries, providing producers with guidance on how to export, which results in promotional campaigns in different parts of the world, including the participation in wine fairs and direct contact with trade agents and opinion makers.
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The Brazilian wineries produced for the export market over 2.2 million liters and commercialized to 36 countries from January to December 2016. The exports to the USA market have increased 34.
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64 % in 2016.

Visit www.winesofbrasil.com for more information, or follow Wines of Brasil on Instagram (@brazilianwines), Faceebok (Wines of Brasil) and Twitter (@WinesofBrasil)