Eve's Wine 101

The End: Domaine du Grand Tinel, Domaine Saint Prefert Et Domaine Isabel Ferrando and Vieux Telegraphe

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My final installment from my time in Chateauneuf du Pape is a visit and tour at Domaine du Grand Tinel that’s been making wine for 7 generations! (My husband Eddie covered me for another day – see his coverage from Domaine Saint Prefert Et Domaine Isabel Ferrando and Vieux Telegraphe below.)

Lucien Jeune, born in 1904, is known for two things, first he passed a law forbidding UFOs from landing in the vineyards – making the area more appealing to inquisitive tourists – and he was also mayor for 25 years. Grand Tinel began in 1972, combining estates owned by Lucien Jeune and Georges Establet, when their children married in 1968.

To this day harvest is all done by hand, they have two wineries from two different terroirs: Domaine du Grand Tinel and Domaine de Saint Paul. They don’t make all of the white Rhone varieties, and they focus on the three major reds: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Some of their vines are over 100 years old. They only use new oak barrels for the whites and used for the reds. Wine is sold through Negotiants, mostly to the private sector of French buyers. Bottling and labeling is done in-house.

These were my favorites from the tasting: The 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, the 2020 Cuvee Cotes du Rhone (Roussanne based), Domaine Saint Paul 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape (Grenache and Syrah based, 70 year old vines), 2018  L’insolite (100% Syrah) and 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Heres (100% Grenache).

Eddie and friends (I was back at the Villa with a cold) visited Domaine Saint Prefert Et Domaine Isabel Ferrando and Vieux Telegraphe…these are his memories of the day:

My day began at Domaine Saint Prefert and with an introduction and discussion with owner Isabel Fernando, and a tasting of the latest vintages. The 2021 Blanc Famille Isabel Fernando Chateauneuf du Pape was a great sample of their wines. The 2020 Colombis from Chateauneuf du Pape was outstanding as well.

The afternoon brought us to Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe. Vieux Telegraphe has been a family run winery since 1891. The sixth generation of the Brunier family is continuing the tradition of making excellent wines. Daniel Brunier gave us a wonderful tour and explanation of their winemaking style. The tour included a walk through their newly constructed caves for wine aging and storage.

The tasting began with Clos Roquete, a very approachable wine made from 33% Roussanne, 33% Clairette, and 34% Grenache Blanc. This wine was so good, we bought a bottle for dinner that night. The 2020 Blanc was outstanding as well.  We tasted the entire flight ending with the 2019 Rouge Chateauneuf du Pape made from 65% Grenache Noir, 15% Mourvedre, 15% Syrah, with Cinsault, Clairette and others at 5%. As a special treat, Daniel opened their 2010 rouge Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape. This wine was truly a standout in all the wines tasted on the trip so far. The wine had aged well and still had the ability go age a couple of dozen more years. Many Vieux Telegraphe wines were included in the case we had shipped home.

Instagrams: @DomaineDuGrandTinel @isabelferrando_stprefert @VieuxTelegraphe

Websites: https://www.domainegrandtinel.fr/en/#historique

https://www.st-prefert.com/

Accueil

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Proof Awards, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Perlises Pick: Morgan Winery

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Visiting Monterey County Wine Country can present some challenges. The area is huge and getting to wineries can result in a lot of driving time. Fortunately, many wineries have established tasting rooms in and around Carmel, often several miles away from their winemaking facilities.

Morgan Winery is one of these. While the winery itself is in Salinas, in 2007 their tasting room called Taste Morgan was opened in the Crossroads Shopping Center just south of downtown Carmel and at the gateway to Carmel Valley.

The winery itself was actually founded a couple of decades earlier in 1982 by Daniel Morgan Lee and his wife Donna. Morgan is not only Daniel’s middle name but also his mother’s maiden name. Prior to founding Morgan, Dan graduated from UC Davis – he had planned on studying veterinary medicine but then discovered their wine program. After stints at Jekel Winery and Durney Vineyard, he and his former banker [now his wife] started their own label.

In 1996, they purchased property in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA that would become the Double L Vineyard, commemorating the Double Luck of having their twin daughters. Planted primarily to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this vineyard is certified organic and is the source of the winery’s estate bottlings. As a result, our tasting focused on these varietals, which is what Monterey County has built much of its reputation on. Morgan does produce some other wines as well and we were fortunate to taste of few of those too:

2021 Sauvignon Blanc – sourced from a few vineyards in the Arroyo Seco appellation: Cedar Lane, Ranch Ten, Riverbank and Zabala. Nice peach notes with a medium to long finish and medium mouth feel. Soft and tasty. 

2021 Metallico Un-Oaked Chardonnay – a combination of Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards, including the Double L along with the Leavens and McIntyre Vineyards. Pleasant citrus nose with Meyer Lemon notes on the palate and a full mouth feel.

2021 Rosé of Grenache from Mission Ranch Vineyard, Arroyo Seco– a light nose with mixed berry and raspberry notes. Very slight hint of saltiness and a medium finish.

2020 Double L Chardonnay (Clone RR – Roger Rose) – from Morgan’s estate vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. White flower and jasmine nose.  Asian pear, buttery notes. Big, ripe, creamy, full mouthfeel, long finish. Stunning example of what chardonnay can be.  

2019 Double L Chardonnay- also from the estate vineyard. Pleasant mixed citrus nose and a fitting little brother to the Double L Chardonnay (Clone RR).

2019 Twelve Clones Pinot Noir – from a few Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards: Double L, Leaven, Boekenoogen, Tondré, and Rosella’s. Light color, classic Pinot Noir.  Ripe, red berry fruit notes.  Light and delicate on palate.

2019 Tondré Pinot Noir – from the Tondré Grapefield Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Red stone fruit notes. Big mouth feel, medium to long finish.

2019 Double L Pinot – from the Estate vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. White pepper notes, a touch of smoke, firm structure, supple and subtle.

2020 Tempranillo – from the Riverbank Vineyard, Arroyo Seco. Raisin notes with a big, smooth mouth feel. Velvety and elegant.

The tasting room is roomy, comfortable and very inviting. There are options of tasting at the bar, or enjoying window seating or at a table.  Outside seating is also available. The tastings were served in individual carafes so you can enjoy at your own pace. 

Taste Morgan is definitely worth a visit next time you are in the Carmel area.  

Taste Morgan  www.morganwinery.com/Visit-Us/Taste-Morgan                                             

204 Crossroads Boulevard
Carmel, California 93923

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Vintage Eve Circa 9/2018: What Wines Would You Stock if You Owned a Wine Bar?

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Recently a pal that used to live in Santa Clarita had called me as he was opening a wine bar where he lives now in Texas. He didn’t want advice on anything other than what wine I would want if I were to visit his bar.

Since he had moved to Texas a few years ago he had been working in real estate, spent some time working in a large wine store, met more ex-pats (people that had come from California too) and ran a large wine tasting group. I didn’t offer any advice on how to open his bar as he had it covered. But I took to Facebook to ask my local pals what they would want stocked in the shelves if they owned a wine bar. They had some really great ideas! These are some of their comments:

THE WINE LIST

This is a compilation of just some of the wines my pals would stock their wine bar with:

Jonata, Potek, Scar of the Sea, True Believer, Andremily, Mail Road, Stolpman, Kimsey, Roark, The Paring, The Hilt, Spear (all Santa Barbara).

So many – Crémant, Melon d’ Bourgogne, Cru Beaujolais, Cahors, Brunello, Valtellina, Vin Santo, Madeira to name a few.

There is never enough Syrah anywhere. Still gets short shrift in the marketplace, which is a shame.

I am a sucker for Roussanne and other Rhone varietals. I love Grenache and Viognier too. Zaca Mesa and Stolpman make fabulous Roussanne.

I would like to see some Gruet Brut Rose or some blends that you can’t buy at a grocery store.

Belle Glos and Domaine Carneros Pinots, plus some Australian, Spanish and Chilean cabs.

Quintarelli, Casanova, Pine Ridge, Ridge, Tolo, Foxen…

On a wine list I look for value since they have to mark it up so much. Burgundy and Barolo would be nice but I’d go to the off the beaten path wines – Cru Beaujolais (France), Ripasso, Valpolicella, Sicilian wines. For those who like big jammy wines – Shiraz! Whites – I like to see Rose from France, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Sancerre (France). If there is a Somm I give them a price range and let them know what I like. Never have been disappointed.

Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc, Frogs Leap Cab, Rombi Cabernet, Bookenoogen Pinot and Heller Merlot.

Under $100: Cade Cabernet Sauvignon, Campesino Syrahs and Pinot Noirs, Shafer One Point Five, Grgich Hills, Turley Zins, Prisoner, Orin Swift, Patz & Hall pinots, Flowers, Mantanzas Creek Chards, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Tablas Creek and Justin.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir is hands down one of the best Pinots out there.

Lone Star Wine Cellars and Landon Winery are two wineries in McKinney Texas. I haven’t been there in a few years. But, remember the wines were pretty good. They have tasting rooms in historic downtown McKinney TX.

Also would love to have more orange wines on menus. I’m glad it’s becoming a trend.

Would love to see more wines from Paso Robles and the Santa Ynez area. Roblar in Los Olivos is one of my favorite wineries and reasonably priced in my opinion. There are so many smaller vineyards in both of these areas to explore. Tired of seeing Kendall Jackson and the like in many of the restaurants/wine bars. Pretty much I would love to taste wines that I would not be able to find at Bev Mo, not that they have bad wines, but just not interesting ones…

Le Vigne Vineyards has some wonderful wines, Justin cabs of course, Clos Solene, L’Aventure and RN Estate are some of my favorites. All from Paso.

Justin makes a great Malbec I have been enjoying! I’m typically a Cab girl myself.

For whites: Dry Rieslings (German or Alsatian), Sancerre, South African Sauvignon Blanc, and Austrian Gruner Veltliner (as opposed to Hungarian). For reds: I love the less stereotypical Italian reds such as Nero D’Avola and pretty much any red from the Piedmont region.

I’m always excited to see Barbera and GSM’s when I visit a place that I am planning to drink wine at. I also enjoy having a good port or cream sherry available if I am visiting the wine bar after dinner and I want to end the night with a dessert-like treat.

Where wines started … Italy!

I have a rather long list, but most are red wines from the Paso Robles region, Lompoc and Santa Ynez regions as well: Longoria Wines, Tercero Wines, Eberle Winery, J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, Amalie Vineyards in Oregon, Ascension, Bass Note Sangria, Sanford, Sculpterra, Castlerock, Cutruzzola Vineyards, Joel Gott, Cass, Hoi Polloi Winery, San Antonio Winery (official), Michael David…I love all reds, depending on winery, but my go tos are usually Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Cab, Beaujolais, and red blends. I love our California wines!

Something interesting and different. Also some local TX wines.

From me: This is ONE of my own picks, because I voted for it as our Best of Show at the Global Wine Awards, from Martellotto Winery: https://martellotto.com/products/martellotto-riserva-il-capoccia-happy-canyon-of-santa-barbara

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Whitehall Lane Winery Released the First-Ever Camminare Noir and Paseante Noir Wines Made from California’s Newest Sustainable Grape Varieties Developed at UC Davis

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SAINT HELENA, Calif. /PRNewswire/ — These red wines were 20 years in the making; or rather, the grape vines took two decades to develop. Whitehall Lane joined forces with Dr. Andrew Walker of UC Davis and Dr. Paul Skinner of Vineyard Investigations in Napa Valley and planted these experimental grape varieties because they are highly resistant to Pierce’s disease. Pierce’s disease is caused by a bacterium spread by leafhopper insects called sharpshooters. It infects grape vines across the US and costs California grape growers more than $100 million per year.

“These varieties will hopefully make viticulture much more sustainable and provide a high-quality wine that the industry will welcome,” said Walker. Whitehall Lane owner Katie Leonardini agrees with Walker adding, “Rather than trying to manage the sharpshooter with insecticides and potentially harming other beneficial insects, these new rootstocks dovetail into our sustainable and green practices. And the wine is outstanding too!”

Whitehall Lane bottled the 2019 Camminare Noir and 2019 Paseante Noir wines as single, distinct varietals. These grapes from the winery’s Oak Glen Vineyard were harvested on October 15, 2019. Winemaker Jason Moulton kept the two small lots separate saying, “It was amazing how distinct these two wines were from color to flavor to texture.” He continued, “As they developed in our custom American oak barrels, it was evident that these were excellent stand-alone wines.”  The special American oak barrels were designed by Nadalie Cooperage in Calistoga, CA to specifically suit the characteristics of these new American wines.

The Camminare Noir profile is a cross between Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon and the wine has aromas and flavors of blackberries, raspberries, cherries and a dense tannin profile.

The Paseante Noir is a combination of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Cabernet Sauvignon and delivers flavors of cassis, coffee, and berry.  Fewer than 25 cases of each were made and are available at the winery.

Whitehall Lane planted the two rootstocks in 2016 in their Oak Glen Vineyard. Dr. Walker, professor of viticulture and enology at UC Davis, developed the rootstock, creating grape varieties that provide high-quality wine while elevating the level of sustainable grape growing. “Whitehall Lane was constantly replanting dead vines infected by Pierce’s disease,” said Dr. Skinner. “I knew the Oak Glen vineyard was a perfect location for Walker’s experimental varieties.”

Whitehall Lane Winery is a family-owned and operated winery in Napa Valley’s historic Rutherford Appellation. They are dedicated to growing and making premium Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from their eight estate vineyards.  They provide friendly hospitality at their Napa Valley winery and are Napa Green winery and vineyard certified with sustainable practices.

Dr. Walker is a faculty member of the Department of Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis.

His lab is actively involved in breeding wine grapes for resistance to Pierce’s disease.