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Starka: The Elixir of Poland’s Sarmatist Nobility

October 31, 2013 by evebushman

Throughout my travels, I am constantly asked two questions with regard to vodka. The first, what is my favorite vodka? The second question, where did vodka originate? The first question is easy to answer. Without a doubt, my favorite vodka is Polish Starka. The answer to the second question is not so simple.

LithuaniaBy now, you are probably asking yourself what is Starka and from where does this unique vodka hail? History has it that Starka Vodka has been produced in Lithuania as far back as the 1400s. With the birth of a daughter, the father would fill an empty wine cask with vodka, apple and lime leaves, and seal it with bee’s wax.
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The cask was then buried in loose sandy soil. Years later, at the daughter’s wedding feast, the cask was dug up, and the wonderful elixir which came to be known as Starka, was served to the guests.

By the 17th century, Starka had become the favorite drink of the Sarmatist Gentry of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The name, Starka, is actually derived from the Lithuanian word, “starkus,” which is associated with birth. In 1991, I was first in introduced to Polish Starka by my friend, the Russian ballet dancer, Mikhail Baryshnikov.

Prior to 1894, there were several types of distilled spirits known as vodka. During the reign of Tsar Alexander II, it was decided that there should be one, and only one recipe for vodka. The Tsar declared a contest to be held to decide on the appropriate recipe for distilling the popular spirit. What we know today as vodka, is the recipe that won. What is unfortunate, many wonderful spirits were lost in the Tsar’s efforts to standardize vodka for tax purposes. Fortunately, Starka was saved due to the efforts of the renown Baczewski family of Lviv (Since the end of WWII, this part of Poland was ceded to Ukraine). The vodka producing dynasty was able to stem the tide, and maintain Starka’s popularity in both Lithuania and Poland. After WWII, and the domination by the Soviet Union, Starka was allowed to be produced only by Stumbras in Lithuania and Polmos Szczecin in Poland.

Lithuanian Starka follows an old tradition which dates back to 1906. It is made with rectified spirits and drinking water put through a six-stage filtration. The result is a spirit that is light brown in color, with a slight burning sensation. There are hints of oak and subtle fruit flavors. These flavors come by way of an infusion of apple and pear leaves. For my palate, Stumbras produces what I would refer to as a Starka-flavored vodka. The alcohol content is 40% with a price tag of $20.

Polish Starka is quite different altogether. It is the quintessential expression of Starka. Polmos is the sole authorized Polish producer of Starka. Polmos is an acronym for Polski polmos 50 yr. oldMonopol Spirytusowy, “Polish Spirit Monopoly.” The traditional vodka is distilled from natural rye spirit that is distilled twice and no rectification. It is aged in oak barrels with small amounts of apple and lime leaves to add a whisper of flavor to this dry style vodka. Similar to the process of making whiskey, the resulting spirit is altogether a horse of a different color. Along with recipe differences and restrictions, the most notable difference is the aging period. Polmos Szczecin ages its Starka from 10 to 50 years. An important point that makes Polish Starka unique within the market is that its natural color is from long reaction to the oak, and not from additives. The alcohol content is 50%. Prices range from $30 for Starka aged 10 years to $2250 for the Creme de la creme that has been aged 50 years.Russian Starka

Russia has also launched its bid to enter this market, and Russian Starka is easily recognized by its serpentine “S” logo. This version, is vodka aged for 5 years, and filtered through birch, charcoal, and quartz sands. It is then enhanced with the addition of port, brandy, and fruit essences.
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Russians promote this as a spirit meant to be enjoyed chilled. The alcohol content is 43% with a price tag of $35.

In recent years, such countries as Bulgaria, Kazakhstan, and Latvia has also entered the lucrative Starka market. Unfortunately, these countries have preferred the use of rectified spirits and flavored additives. The resulting spirits pale in comparison to the traditional Polish style Starka, and are not sold in the USA.

Now for an answer to the second question that I am often asked, where did vodka originate? It is believed by many historians that vodka was first distilled in the city of Poltava. At that time, the city was under Polish rule. Some years later Poland ceded this territory to Imperial Russia. Today, Poltava lies in the heart of Ukraine. The answer, I suppose, is based on national pride and politics. I doubt that over time, an answer agreeable to all concerned is in possible … “But that my friends, is a different story …”

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: brandy, color, distill, fruit, Oak, poland, Port, russia, spirits, vodka, whiskey

Spmmelier Gregory Alonzo: Passion for Polish Vodka

May 21, 2012 by evebushman

Le Meridien Bristol is a grand hotel in the fashionable “Kings Walk” area of Warsawʼs old town. This historic hotel was built in 1899 and is famous for its picturesque Art- Nouveau interiors.

Joining me in the hotelʼs Column Bar, are fellow sommeliers, Adrianna and Karina. Both share my passion for Polish vodka. Settling into my large leather arm chair, a smile crossed my face as I took in the beauty of the barʼs high ceilings, parquet floors, and ornate columns.

Le Meridien Bristol

“Gregory, what is it that amuses you?” Karina queried. Chuckling softly, “I must be with the only brunettes in this bar,” “Two ladies who are very thirsty.” Adrianna toyed.

As we readied for our first selection, our waiter served some appetizers which consisted of pickles and sausages. A Polish custom which I have grown quite fond.

Today we will be tasting “Wodka Crysta.” Literally translated, it means “Clean vodka.” It is the Polish term for clear vodka containing no additives. Contrary to popular belief, vodka is not tasteless. Vodka can be quite complex with a range of flavors pending on whether it has been distilled from wheat, rye, or potatoes.

When drinking with Poles, proper etiquette is a must. Vodka is always served neat, in a shot glass and drunk “To da … to the bottom,” is the general rule.

“Gregory,” Karina smiled demurely. “I know you have a penchant for rye vodka. My selection for today is Uʼluvka.”

This is indeed one of my favorite rye vodkas. Uʼluvka is Polish for “legless,” referring to the style of crystal glasses favored by the 17th century King Sigismund 111 and his court. The twisted tear drop bottle is as elegantly shaped as is the vodka. Rye vodkas are known for their complexity. With just a hint of barley to stimulate the palate, Uʼluvka is smooth in texture and rich in savory flavors that will satisfy the most discerning of palates. Neat is the only way to fully appreciate this truly august vodka.

“Gregory,” Adrianna called out for my attention. “Why do Americans often drink vodka on the rocks?

“One school of thought is that as the ice slowly melts, it helps to open up the vodka.”

“Yuk.” Karina grimaced. “That is as bad as Russians putting vodka in the freezer. All that does is mask the impurities of an inferior vodka.”

Proper filtration is an absolute must in making premium vodka. Everything from charcoal, crystals, and even lava rocks have been utilized in the attempt to craft a most unique spirit.

“Gregory,” Adrianna broke in. “Are we ready for my selection? I know that you are especially fond of vodkas distilled from spelt grain. Snow Leopard is one of your favorites so I decided that we should share this truly remarkable vodka with Evaʼs readers.”

“Eve,” I smiled. “Her name is Eve Hammond Bushman.”

“Pity she is not Polish,” Adrianna chuckled as she poured our Snow Leopard.

On the nose, this vodka is soft and well rounded with overtones of vanilla and honey. On the palate, Snow Leopard is velvety smooth culminating in a long finish. This exceptional tasting vodka has plenty of depth and character. In essence, Snow Leopard is a spirit with a soul. Spelt grains were originally used to brew the beer of the Pharaohs. Need I say more when it comes this most delectable of vodkas.

“Whatʼs next?” Karina said with a wink and her glass readied for my selection.

Wheat vodkas are renown for their smoothness. Akademicka, is no exception. This is an elegant vodka characteristic of Polandʼs mastery in distilling premium spirits. Using only pure mountain water from the famous Silesian wells, the end result is a vodka of unrivaled character and body.

“Very clean on the nose,” Adrianna added. “Beautifully balanced on the palate.”

“I like its delicate character and long finish.” Karina concluded that this is a vodka of excellence.

“Weʼre hungry,” Both ladies said with a chuckle. Delight filled my eyes.”Iʼm feeling Italian and musical.”

“Oh Gregory, just admit that you want to drink barolo.” Karina took me by the arm as we all laughed in unison, “Bordoʼs.”

Bordoʼs is my favorite Italian cafe in Warsaw. But that my friends is another story …

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: poland, rye, sommelier, tasting, vodka

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Eve Bushman

Eve Bushman, owner Eve’s Wine 101 and Eve Bushman Consulting.

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