Perlises Pick: What Wines We Are Drinking At Home – Part 3

April 24, 2021 by Michael Perlis

When I started writing this series of articles about the lighter wines Karen and I have been drinking recently, I hadn’t really thought that so many of them would be from Paso Robles. After all, Paso’s reputation [at least in my mind] is for big delicious Reds, and there certainly are a lot of those coming from this area. And we don’t limit ourselves to PR’s AVAs, as I expect you know. But, as I’ve said, great winemakers make great wine, regardless of color, and here are three more wineries that produce some of our favorite lighter wines from the area. As an added bonus, they are all somehow connected to each other.

We’ve actually known Guillaume Fabre of Clos Solene www.clossolene.com the longest of these three, having met him at an event back in 2009. He was pouring his first vintage – a delicious Roussanne – and was still assistant winemaker at L’Aventure. But 2009 was long ago. We’ve followed him to the shared Paso Underground tasting room in downtown to Paso Robles and then to Tin City just south of downtown Paso. Now he and his wife Solene have their own property in the Willow Creek District of Paso Robles, from which they are creating some of the best wines in the region. I’ve always felt that his Red wines did a great job of showing how their inherent power could be softened into elegance without losing the characteristics of Paso.

The lighter wines are equally as stylish. Karen loves all of them when “paired with our “Snacks– Hunkered Down” nights of charcuterie and/or smoked fish, various cheeses, dried and fresh fruit, followed by lemon cookies or a scoop of ice cream.”

The pink La Rose is a Rhone blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah, made from grapes specifically farmed for rosé – no saignee here! Very pale in color that belies the complexity of the wine itself.

Clos Solene’s Hommage Blanc is a classic white Rhone blend of mainly Roussanne plus Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Karen found it to be “full bodied…flowers, fruit, spices…”

Finally, En Coulisse is 100% Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyards. A nice rich Chard, and [per Karen] “not overpowering with oak, vanilla or butter but fruit forward…”

Guillaume is also partner in another Paso Robles winery with his brother Arnaud –

Benom Wines www.benomwines.com. They originally took over Clos Solene’s spot in Tin City, although I believe they have now moved to a larger space in the same area.

The name Benom is a riff on the French word “binôme” which translates to “a project together”. These French brothers have successfully combined their homeland’s heritage with all that Paso has to offer, with their blends showing what can be done by them in a place with no rules. No surprise, again, that the red wines are great, but this article is focusing on these lighter wines.

The L’Essor rosé combines Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon and Contrast is a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Neither of these could be made back home due to the rules about combining grapes from different regions. And they clearly should be. Karen loved the “bright fruit” of the L’Essor and found the Contrast to be “crisp, clean, full of fruit…”

As I mentioned at the start, this article is about three wineries that are somehow connected. Arnaud Fabre of Benom is also marketing director at Law Estate Wines www.lawestatewines.com, another winery that we first tasted at a festival. This time it was the Ojai Wine Festival back in 2013, when Karen came up to me and said “you really have to try Law”. As always, she was right and we have been big fans since. We met GM Oliver Esparham at the Ojai Festival and have visited him and the rest of our friends at Law at the state-of-the-art winery and tasting room many times – once even before it was complete. The winery and vineyards high up on Peachy Canyon are amazing in their own right. But, that would mean nothing if the wines didn’t match. And they definitely do. The Law wines are truly some of the best ones around.

With regard to lighter wines, Law makes two. The Rosé blend is typically Grenache based while the white Rhone blend Soph [named after the Laws’ granddaughter] is usually about half Roussanne. The exact blends vary from year to year for both of these, but they are always stunning and are present on our table [and in our glasses] often. I love that the description on the website refers to Soph as “an extremely moreish wine”. We definitely agree on that.

Next article, we’ll finally leave Paso Robles and look at wines from farther north. Unless I change my mind.

Clos Solene

www.clossolene.com

Benom

www.benomwines.com

Law Estate Wines

www.lawestatewines.com

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also President of MCP Financial, which provides outsourced controller services. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or mcpfinancial@aol.com.

Vintage Eve Circa 9/2018: What Wines Would You Stock if You Owned a Wine Bar?

March 9, 2021 by evebushman

Recently a pal that used to live in Santa Clarita had called me as he was opening a wine bar where he lives now in Texas. He didn’t want advice on anything other than what wine I would want if I were to visit his bar.

Since he had moved to Texas a few years ago he had been working in real estate, spent some time working in a large wine store, met more ex-pats (people that had come from California too) and ran a large wine tasting group. I didn’t offer any advice on how to open his bar as he had it covered. But I took to Facebook to ask my local pals what they would want stocked in the shelves if they owned a wine bar. They had some really great ideas! These are some of their comments:

THE WINE LIST

This is a compilation of just some of the wines my pals would stock their wine bar with:

Jonata, Potek, Scar of the Sea, True Believer, Andremily, Mail Road, Stolpman, Kimsey, Roark, The Paring, The Hilt, Spear (all Santa Barbara).

So many – Crémant, Melon d’ Bourgogne, Cru Beaujolais, Cahors, Brunello, Valtellina, Vin Santo, Madeira to name a few.

There is never enough Syrah anywhere. Still gets short shrift in the marketplace, which is a shame.

I am a sucker for Roussanne and other Rhone varietals. I love Grenache and Viognier too. Zaca Mesa and Stolpman make fabulous Roussanne.

I would like to see some Gruet Brut Rose or some blends that you can’t buy at a grocery store.

Belle Glos and Domaine Carneros Pinots, plus some Australian, Spanish and Chilean cabs.

Quintarelli, Casanova, Pine Ridge, Ridge, Tolo, Foxen…

On a wine list I look for value since they have to mark it up so much. Burgundy and Barolo would be nice but I’d go to the off the beaten path wines – Cru Beaujolais (France), Ripasso, Valpolicella, Sicilian wines. For those who like big jammy wines – Shiraz! Whites – I like to see Rose from France, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Sancerre (France). If there is a Somm I give them a price range and let them know what I like. Never have been disappointed.

Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc, Frogs Leap Cab, Rombi Cabernet, Bookenoogen Pinot and Heller Merlot.

Under $100: Cade Cabernet Sauvignon, Campesino Syrahs and Pinot Noirs, Shafer One Point Five, Grgich Hills, Turley Zins, Prisoner, Orin Swift, Patz & Hall pinots, Flowers, Mantanzas Creek Chards, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Tablas Creek and Justin.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir is hands down one of the best Pinots out there.

Lone Star Wine Cellars and Landon Winery are two wineries in McKinney Texas. I haven’t been there in a few years. But, remember the wines were pretty good. They have tasting rooms in historic downtown McKinney TX.

Also would love to have more orange wines on menus. I’m glad it’s becoming a trend.

Would love to see more wines from Paso Robles and the Santa Ynez area. Roblar in Los Olivos is one of my favorite wineries and reasonably priced in my opinion. There are so many smaller vineyards in both of these areas to explore. Tired of seeing Kendall Jackson and the like in many of the restaurants/wine bars. Pretty much I would love to taste wines that I would not be able to find at Bev Mo, not that they have bad wines, but just not interesting ones…

Le Vigne Vineyards has some wonderful wines, Justin cabs of course, Clos Solene, L’Aventure and RN Estate are some of my favorites. All from Paso.

Justin makes a great Malbec I have been enjoying! I’m typically a Cab girl myself.

For whites: Dry Rieslings (German or Alsatian), Sancerre, South African Sauvignon Blanc, and Austrian Gruner Veltliner (as opposed to Hungarian). For reds: I love the less stereotypical Italian reds such as Nero D’Avola and pretty much any red from the Piedmont region.

I’m always excited to see Barbera and GSM’s when I visit a place that I am planning to drink wine at. I also enjoy having a good port or cream sherry available if I am visiting the wine bar after dinner and I want to end the night with a dessert-like treat.

Where wines started … Italy!

I have a rather long list, but most are red wines from the Paso Robles region, Lompoc and Santa Ynez regions as well: Longoria Wines, Tercero Wines, Eberle Winery, J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, Amalie Vineyards in Oregon, Ascension, Bass Note Sangria, Sanford, Sculpterra, Castlerock, Cutruzzola Vineyards, Joel Gott, Cass, Hoi Polloi Winery, San Antonio Winery (official), Michael David…I love all reds, depending on winery, but my go tos are usually Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Cab, Beaujolais, and red blends. I love our California wines!

Something interesting and different. Also some local TX wines.

From me: This is ONE of my own picks, because I voted for it as our Best of Show at the Global Wine Awards, from Martellotto Winery: https://martellotto.com/products/martellotto-riserva-il-capoccia-happy-canyon-of-santa-barbara

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Vintage Eve Circa 7/2018: Canned Bonny Doon Fizzy White and Pink…Would you try?

February 2, 2021 by evebushman

I shared a press release recently on canned wines. Suffice it to say, most of the comments, mine included, were biased against canned wines. Most of us didn’t care for the presentation – just like the people that resist screw capped wines for their lack of romance – and some questioned if there was a metallic taste. Got a lot of discussion in one of my Facebook posts and prompted the powers that be at Bonny Doon Vineyard to send me some canned wines to sample.

The two cans I tried below did turn me around. There was no problem with the flavor in these lighter-styled wines sparkling wines:

Fizzy White

AKA La Bulle-Moose Blanche

100% Vermentino

Color: Dried hay, and a little fresh green grass.

Aroma: Pineapple, lemon hard candy, kiwi, wet concrete, cantaloupe and honeydew melon.

Flavor in a wine glass: tingly, Prosecco-like, that same lemon but not as sweet, more like a light lemonade, paler melon fruit, green apple.

Flavor from the can: Same, of course, maybe more fizzy but that may just be perception.

Fizzy Pink of the Earth

AKA La Bulle-Moose de Cigare

57% Grenache, 18% Grenache Blanc, 9% Mourvèdre, 6% Roussanne, 5% Carignane, 5% Cinsaut

Color: Peach, rose gold.

Aroma: Bruised strawberry, yellow peach, raspberry, lemon-lime, akin to sparkling wine.

Flavor in a wine glass: overall light nuances of fruit cocktail, pear and peach with a medium finish.

Flavor from the can: same.

Conclusion

Basically: Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. The company sent me two of each flavor and my husband liked the idea of keeping the two we didn’t open in the fridge to have on our porch before dinner some night soon. I liked the idea of just splitting a can of wine before dinner, and before moving over to cocktails or a full bottle of wine to pair with our meal.

I also felt that both of these would also lend themselves well in a Sangria with fruit, and maybe a little rum or spirit of your choice.

I would probably have a harder time being convinced of the merits of a heartier or higher quality wine served in a can. I also can’t imagine moving people with strong opinions for cork closures to try canned wines any more than they would accept screw-capped wines. It’s just too much change…for the present. Who knows how wines will be served in 100 or so years? Everything may be canned soon enough.

Side note, I’m not a fan of wines with names that do little to tell you what grapes they’re made from. Every time I get served a Rose I find myself asking what grapes they’re made from, so this may just be my pet peeve. Plus I’m not attracted to puppies or kittens or a moose on a label though I know other people do select their wines based on a cute label, so I get the desire. Maybe it’s just me?

Click on cans for details –> https://shop.bonnydoonvineyard.com/Shop/Cans

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 15k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Women in Wine: Dr. Laura Catena, Anne Trimbach, Laure Colombo and Alessia Collauto Travaglini

October 9, 2020 by evebushman

Pretty excited to have these women (virtually) in my home – Dr. Laura Catena, Bodegas Catena Zapata & Bodegas CARO (Mendoza, Argentina); Anne Trimbach, Trimbach (Alsace, France); Laure Colombo, Vins Jean-Luc Colombo (Cornas, Rhone Valley, France); and Alessia Collauto Travaglini, Travaglini (Gattinara, Piemonte, Italy)!

Do you recognize some of those last names? You should as they are also names of their family wineries. I had met Alessia and her mother, Cinzia Travaglini, a year ago when they held a wine tasting luncheon at Angelini Osteria. (Read about that here.) The other esteemed ladies, well-educated winery owners and winemakers, I had not met before.

What We Learned

Dr. Catena explained that the wine industry employs about 40% female workers, and when she started zero were employed in actual viticulture, most worked on the business side. Even those, working in the office, had male bosses. In her time she has fought for equal pay for equal work. From her bio I learned more about this remarkable woman: Dr. Laura Catena is a fourth-generation Argentine vintner, physician and author. Catena was born in Mendoza and spent her childhood with her grandfather Domingo at the family’s winery in the small village of La Libertad. Laura graduated magna cum laude from Harvard University in 1988 and has a Medical Doctor degree from Stanford University.

For Travaglini it’s a different story, her family-run winery is all female except for her grandfather. From her bio: Today, she can be found tending the vines at Travaglini or working in the cellar alongside her family. She also takes an active role in the administration, marketing, sales and promotion of Travaglini wines…Alessia holds a degree in Economics and Business Management from the Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore. Although Italian is her native tongue, Alessia also speaks English, Spanish and French.

Colombo shared that her winery has a “sense of place” as her neighbors have cows, make cheese, etc., all contributing to what is typical in her area. A little from her bio we learn: …she interned at Château Haut-Brion while working toward her bachelor’s degree in Viticulture and Oenology in Bordeaux. She then received her master’s degree in Oenology from the University of Montpellier, where she participated in experiments with vinifications in the southern hemisphere. In 2010, Laure was ready to join the family estate where she has been working alongside her parents ever since. In 2014, she created her own Domaine in the Appellation of Saint Péray, Le Domaine de Lorient, with partner Dimitri.

Trimbach said that fifty percent of their productions is Riesling, and her family has been making wine for nearly 50 years, from their own estate grapes and from negotiants. Dr. Catena said that Trimbach is an expert at social media, and had built the Trimbach website. From Trimbach’s bio: She studied economics at Prepa HEC in Strasbourg before spending three years in Dijon, Burgundy to complete her master’s degree. Post-studies, she spent six months in Copenhagen improving her English skills before returning to France for an internship with a beverage distributor. In 2008, Anne moved back to Alsace and began to formally work as a winemaker and Trimbach ambassador.

Wines (my notes are in italics)

Jean Luc Colombo 2018 Saint Peray, “La Belle De Mai”

60% Roussanne, 40% Marsanne White Rhone blend

14.5% alcohol

Laure Colombo, winemaker

This was a beautiful wine. Colombo said it was from a single vineyard, old vines, and that the grapes were harvested and vinified together. Beautiful nose showing fruit, minerality and simply, a bouquet of fresh flowers. It was mouthwatering, with low acidity, that same fresh fruit and balance.

2017 Caro Domaines Barons De Rothschild Lafite and Nicolas Catena

74% Malbec and 26% Cabernet Sauvignon

Dr Catena said that Malbec softens Cab, and that she had researched this idea and learned that this is “a historical blending.” Had this wine a few weeks earlier in a Zoom with Caro, and this is an excerpt of my notes: This is a limited production wine, comes from “specific sub divisions of terroir”, and since they don’t make it every year it’s scarce. I found a beautiful nose filled with lots of dark fruit, spice, tobacco and dark chocolate. Drawn in for a taste I got a rich spicy mouthfeel and that same luscious dark fruit.

2016 Travaglini Gattinara DOCG

100% Nebbiolo

13.5% alcohol

Massimo Collauto, winemaker

93 points, Wine Advocate

Just as I had recalled from tasting a year ago, this wine does not disappoint. Filled with earth, plum, dried red currant, pipe smoke and chocolate covered cherries all on the nose. The taste, ah, is balanced dry dark fruit – blueberry and blackberry – including stems and brambles.

2017 Trimbach Riesling Reserve

91 points by Wine Spectator and James Suckling.

A dry – not sweet – Riesling, with crisp apple, citrus and minerality reminiscent of standing by a cool lake – all on the nose. The taste was all beautifully ripe fruit. I paired this later in the evening with a rich vanilla ice cream with ribbons of lemon puree.

Social Media Contacts

Taub Family Selections

Instagram: @taubfamilyselections Facebook: @TaubFamilySelections Twitter: @TFSelections

Trimbach

Instagram: @trimbach, @annetrimbachalsace Facebook: @maisontrimbach Twitter: @trimbach

Jean-Luc Colombo

Instagram: @vinscolombo, @laurecolombo Facebook: @vinsjeanluccolombo Twitter: @vinscolombo

Travaglini

Instagram: @travaglinigattinara, @alessia.c.travaglini Facebook: @www.travaglinigattinara.it

Bodegas Caro

Instagram: @bodegascaro, @lauracatenamd Facebook: @bodegasCARO

Rediscovering Jalama and Winemaker Mark Cargasacchi

September 4, 2020 by evebushman

Oh what a treat! I forgot how entertaining winemaker Mark Cargasacchi was! And of course, what a great winemaker he is! It had been a few years since I visited the Lompoc Wine Ghetto, aka the Lompoc Wine Trail, and when I found a photo in my Facebook memories of me at the ghetto, at Jalama wines, I re-shared it. That’s when I knew that I was way overdue for a visit. So overdue in fact that I had to learn that Mark had moved their tasting room to Palm Springs, though currently closed due to Covid. Mark often comes to Lompoc, as that is still where the winery is, so I got my foot in the door during one of his visits.

Mark picking up the wines from the tasting room before our meeting outside.

The move to the desert proved to be quite profitable for Mark, he said he had his best sales there in 2019. He sold out of all of his library wines, from 2004 through 2015, as well as his current 2016 vintages of both his Syrah and El Capitan “signature blend” and most of his 2017s! He did find a few wines to share with us, so there should be a few for you too, even better if you are a wine club member.

We caught up on some local gossip during our tasting, always fun, and heard all about his new spot in the desert. We were very happy to hear how well he is doing there and can’t wait to visit when the weather, and Covid, cools off. And by the time that happens we can try his wines again. Note: All of Mark’s wines have had no new oak since 2015. So if you use the word “oaky” as a descriptor in talking about any of his wines from 2015 on he will snort, or giggle, as it’s simply not there.

Tasting

We started with a barrel sample of Mark’s Grenache/Roussanne Blanc. It had spent time in stainless steel and neutral oak barrels, with four to five more months to go before he bottles (what Mark refers to as “a second winter”) before he will release the wine. It is also unfiltered and unfined. We thought it was super fresh, good fruit.

Next up was his 2017 Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills. We found it earthy as Mark had described, also with notes of dried black cherry and meaty plum. Then we sampled a 2016 Grenache with 13.5% alcohol, he had just released the wine six months before. We found it bright, smokey, rich and some of those earthy qualities again.

The 2016 Refugio blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah was very nice, with rich and spicy bold blue fruit. A “not so petite” 2016 Petite Sirah was a big wow for me, my favorite in the tasting. Wine Enthusiast awarded it as the Editor’s Choice and 91 points, I would give this wine with a bold 15% alcohol more. Plenty of big, dark and dry black fruit, peppery and balanced.

For a finisher Mark brought out his latest wines, 2018 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Both needed “another winter”, six to eight months or so, in bottle before he will release, but we could tell they would be worth the wait. The Merlot had outstanding blue to black fruit; rich, layered, spice, smokey and very aromatic. The Cab was bright now, but again, had that good fruit and earthy qualities we kept finding in the Jalama wines.

https://www.facebook.com/jalamawines

https://www.instagram.com/jalamawines/

https://www.jalamawines.com/

Vintage Eve July 2017: Memorable Stolpman Encounters

May 19, 2020 by evebushman

There are usually more than one reason we become fans of a particular winery: an outstanding line-up of varietals, a feeling of connectivity with the people that work with the winery, a tasting experience that lingers in your memory and maybe a chance meeting…I had all of these things happen when I encountered Stolpman Vineyards.

Tom Stolpman says, “I don’t always drink wine but when I do it’s La Cuadrilla” from, you guessed it, Stolpman Vineyards!

A few years back I was planning a group trip to Los Olivos/Ballard Canyon/Solvang wineries. Stolpman Vineyards came up because I liked the Rhone varietals they were making – well before they obtained a separate AVA distinction for their Ballard Canyon Syrahs.

I wrote about that first tasting in the article title “Eve and Peter Stolpman: Stolpman Vineyards Ballard Canyon Tour, Picnic and Tasting” in 2013 and still count it as one of my most memorable. The way that Peter, partner and vintner, took care of us: tasting the wines in the vineyard – while driving to a picnic spot and learning some of their vineyard practices. Peter was tall, good looking and charming on his own, but with those tasty Stolpman wines and the surroundings to match – my group was completely enamored.

I would see Peter off an on over the next few years, along with his lovely bride Jessica, at trade tastings.

Fast forward to…well you can see it in every article footer since this happened: when I “served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru…” in August 2015. There I was in a room filled with wine judges – with so much to learn from – and I also took note of a very tall slender man with a cowboy hat come in, shake a few hands, and then disappear.

Something nagged at me about that tall man. Later that evening at a dinner hosted for the judges and all those involved with the Long Beach Grand Cru I saw him again, “It was then that a tall gentleman wearing a cowboy slipped a bottle of wine from Stolpman Vineyards onto the tasting table. It took me about a nanosecond to figure out who that was. Tom Stolpman is also on the Board of Directors. A second after that I learned that he met fellow board member, James McAdams, in law school in the 70s and the two practiced in the same Long Beach firm.”

I wrote about that experience in “Judging 101: The Long Beach Grand Cru AND THE WINNING WINE LIST” in July 2015 and later “Tasting Not Spitting: Attending the Long Beach Grand Cru, Post Judging.”

During the 2016 Long Beach Grand Cru Tasting I got to meander the grounds along with Tom, in particular tasting and commenting on wines from other wineries that were made from his vineyards. It was another memory for me to file away in my brain under “Stolpman Encounters” that I call up often. We had become Stolpman wine club members by then.

Again, fast forward to this current year where we met Peter again when our very own Salt Creek Grille hosted a wine pairing dinner with Executive Chef Ignacio Munoz. I brought three of the original six guests that Peter had hosted for that tour, tasting and picnic now four years earlier – and maybe because we rushed him en masse he easily remembered us. So nice. We bought a case of wine that night that will last me through the summer, 2015 Roussanne and 2014 Syrah.

Good memories indeed.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Discovering Folded Hills Winery – Plus Winemaker Angela Osborne

February 28, 2020 by evebushman

Once again the #LAWineWriters met up at Napa Valley Grille in Westwood to have a wine paired luncheon. This time organizer and fellow writer Cori Solomon invited us to taste through some new Rhone wines – Grenache predominant – from a winery in the Santa Ynez AVA: Folded Hills Winery Farmstead Ranch.

We were greeted by the owner, Kim Busch, and general manager Tymari Lore on the patio of the restaurant. There were no less than nine wines for us to try, along with a six course meal created by Chef Ben Diaz. (See photos here.)

What we learned about the winery:

The vineyards are situated further south than any other vineyards in the Santa Ynez AVA and provide for cooler climate wines.
The winemaker, Angela Osborne, is also known for her A Tribute to Grace wines.
Their wine club is called “The Fold” and is very event-centered.
If you like French Rhônes, many of which are lower in alcohol than the American version, know that the Folded Hills wines we tried ranged from low to mid-range at 12.10% alcohol to 14.5%, with most hovering at about 13%.
They launched in April 2017 and you can taste the wines in their Montecito tasting room or at the estate in Gaviota.
This is a small production winery, with 5,500-6,500 case production, and they tend to “sell out fast.” Owner Kim Busch added, “Yes we do sell out of most our wines, all but 2 of which are purposely higher production.”
If you visit the winery you will not only see vineyards but also fruit trees and farm animals.

According to their brochure the wines “have no residual sugar and one gram or less of carbs, no commercial additives, minimal sulfur, only native yeast, are grown organically following the biodynamic calendar, made from grapes that are 95% estate grown, hand harvested using sustainable practices in the vineyard, are vegan, and crafted consciously to be lower in alcohol…” as well as being family owned.

Below are my tasting notes on the wines and food pairings:

ONE

Beet Tartare: Yuzu, hazelnut chimichurri, radish, nasturtium, country bread.

2018 Lilly Rose Grenache: 100% Folded Hills Grenache. Salmon in color, aromas and flavors of pink grapefruit, apple, lemon, graphite. Loved the beets and the Rose cooled down the heat of this dish.

TWO

The Nomad Flatbread: Salmon belly, crème fraiche, escabeche, radish, chervil.

2018 August White: 68% Folded Hills Grenache Blanc, 32% Area 51 Roussanne. White flowers, pears in light syrup, concrete, mild acidity. I loved the salmon – and had seconds – with this white Rhone.

THREE

Apple and Brie Flatbread: Granny Smith, picked red onion, triple crème brie, prosciutto, heirloom tomato velouté.

2018 Estate White Santa Ynez Valley: 50% Grenache Blanc, 25% Marsanne, 25% Clarette Blanche. Apple, peach, butter, toasted oak, crisp and clean mouthfeel, and my favorite white in the tasting. Loved the apple notes in the wine with the apples in the flatbread.

FOUR

Mary’s Free-Range Chicken Wings: Thai passion fruit chili, petite frisee, Heirloom radish, cilantro.

2017 August Red: 67% Grenache, 33% Syrah. Very perfumy aromatics, velvety red fruit, black cherries, big and tannic – especially when compared to the other red wines. My fellow writers oohed and awed over the pairing; it was quite nice with the spices on the chicken.

FIVE

Yellowfin Tuna: bubu arare, porcini crema, truffle ponzu, maitake.

2017 Cluster Grenache: Whole cluster Grenache, 100% Folded Hills. Cherry cola, green peppercorn and a nice easy drinker.

2017 Estate Grenache: 100% Folded Hills Grenache. Cherry liqueur, brambles, minty and dry.

2017 Grant Grenache: 92% Grenache, 8% Syrah. Raspberry, bright, oak and tannic.

All were really nice with the tuna, and as it was served cold it was a perfect picnic as we were outdoors on a cool day with low alcohol wines. These last two Grenache were my favorites of the reds.

SIX

Charred Te Mana Lamb: honey nut squash, baby kale, pine nut relish, au poivre.

Twice Fried Brussels Sprouts: Balsamic, parmigiano reggiano, togarashi, shaved bonito.

2017 Stolpman Syrah Ballard Canyon: 100% Stolpman Syrah. Strawberry, richly oaked, cola, tart.

2016 G.S.M.: 80% Folded Hills Vineyard, 20% Thompson Vineyard. 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre. Red berries, ash, long finish.

Both wines were very nice with the lamb and Brussels Sprouts, if I could have eaten more I would have!

https://foldedhills.com/

https://www.facebook.com/foldedhills/

https://napavalleygrille.com/

https://www.facebook.com/NapaValleyGrilleWestwood/

Vintage Eve Circa 3/2017: Tablas Creek Tasting

January 28, 2020 by evebushman

This past month I got to sample some of the wines from Tablas Creek in a preview tasting held at Salt Creek Grille Valencia and organized by Carl and Terry Kanowsky. Why?

On February 22 (2017) I ran the news on my website, social media and my weekly newsletter, but here it is in a nutshell:

Local supporters of the Santa Clarita Boys and Girls Club Carl and Terry Kanowsky, along with Greg Amsler of Salt Creek Grille are holding “an intimate wine experience on March 21, 2017, beginning at 6:30 at Salt Creek” to benefit the club. This year marks their seventh collaborative wine tasting event.

The highlighted winery will be Tablas Creek from Paso Robles with winemaker Jason Haas on hand to pour six of his wines – that will be matched with dishes from Salt Creek Grille. An auction will also take place.

Now, back to me, I got to taste the wines so that I can make your mouth water enough to buy tickets to the event! Wine critic Robert Parker has already said, “These are fabulous wines that will certainly stand up to the best coming out of the Rhône Valley in France. Certainly a reference point for Paso Robles, Tablas Creek continues to produce wines in a restrained, age-worthy and savory style that sets them apart. To say I came away impressed would be an understatement.”

Photo from Yelp

Eve’s Tasting Notes – aromas and flavors divided by ;

Some of these notes were aided by 30 yearlong club supporters John and Debra Heys, Boys and Girls Club CEO David Menchaca, the club’s director of administration Matt Nelson, Salt Creek Grille Sales and Marketing Director Jennifer Chadwick, Terry Kanowsky and Chef Tamra Levine.

2015 Patelin de Tablas Rose

Grenache, Counoise, Mourvedre, Syrah

On the nose there was a lovely fresh strawberry followed by lemon, white peach and white pepper; in the mouth there was a bit of red berry, grapefruit, lemon and a medium acid that worked well with the menu.

2015 Vermentino

100% Vermentino

Ripe pear in light syrup, mandarin orange, Limoncello and wet stones appeared on the nose; on the palate I got a nice viscosity, lemon-lime, and that same tinge of orange again all in great balance.

2014 Esprit de Tablas Blanc

Roussane, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc

Golden delicious apple, cream and white flower were welcoming aromas; followed by flavors reminiscent of a fresh fruit cocktail. Definitely an easy sipper, very balanced.

2014 Cotes de Tablas

Grenache, Syrah, Counoise, Mourvedre

Dried black cherry, dark chocolate, blueberry, black licorice and bark on the nose; then robust flavors of blackberry, blueberry, dark chocolate covered cherry and cracked black pepper in the mouth.

2014 Esprit de Tablas

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise

Detected blue to black fruits, mushroom and ash aromas; the same black fruit on the palate as well as firm tannins which made it appear seemingly older than a 2014.

2011 Esprit de Tablas

Brighter red fruit than the younger wines, including red currant and bing cherry, earth and mint; on the palate the wine was bright, spicy, balanced as the tannins had softened a bit.

Menu by Chef Tamra Levine

The first three wines, the rose and two whites, will be highlighted by “Salmon 3-Ways” and we sampled the second “way”, which was a beautiful presentation of Salmon Tartar, Grapefruit and Avocado.

The reds will be paired with the “Interlude Presentation” and we had the opportunity to sample the “Concluding Presentation”, which consisted of Discs of Grilled Artisan Sausage, Smoky Blackberry BBQ Sauce and Savory Waffle.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

February 2020 Rhone Rangers Paso Robles Experience

January 25, 2020 by evebushman

The 100+ members of the Rhone Rangers invite you to join them for a day in Paso Robles Wine Country with some of America’s leading producers of Rhone varietals as we explore these great grapes and wines. This fun-filled and information-rich day will move this year to the Paso Robles Event Center! The event includes:

“Rhone Essentials” Seminar

Taste a top example of each of the principal categories of Rhone Rangers wines as you hear from winemakers and principals who have chosen the Rhone Ranger route in America, and who are forging California’s “Rhone Zone” reputation. The discussion will be moderated by Erin Brooks, Reviewer of Oregon, Sonoma, and the California Central Coast for Robert Parker Wine Advocate. The featured wines will be:

• Viognier – Steinbeck Vineyards
• Other White Varietal – Domaine De La Terre Rouge, Roussanne
• White Rhone Blend – Ridge, Adelaida Vineyard
• Dry Rosé – Rabble Wine
• Grenache – Ranchero Cellars
• Mourvèdre – Horton Winery
• Syrah – Eberle Winery
• Other Red Varietal – Peachy Canyon, Petite Sirah
• Red Rhone Blend – TH Estate, Five Blocks

Vintners’ Lunch

Seminar participants will be joined by Rhone Rangers principals and winemakers for a gourmet banquet lunch prepared by Chef Jeffery Scott. Throughout lunch, members’ Rhone wines will be passing freely around the tables, while attendees enjoy an extended opportunity to interact with the producers. Click here to preview the delicious lunch menu.

Grand Tasting & Silent Auction

Taste 200+ wines from Rhone Rangers members from Paso Robles and beyond, including top single Rhone varietals and the best in Rhone blends. New this year, we welcome delegations of wineries from Rhone Rangers chapters outside Paso Robles. During the Grand Tasting, bid on lots donated by Rhone Rangers member wineries and help support the Rhone Rangers scholarship fund!

Tickets

The day’s events will take place, for the first time, at the Paso Robles Event Center on Riverside Avenue in downtown Paso Robles! Participation in the seminar and lunch will be limited to the first 200 tickets sold. The grand tasting will be limited to 400 attendees.

Tickets for the seminar and lunch are $95 (seminar/lunch attendees will receive free entry into the Grand Tasting). Tickets for the Grand Tasting are $45.

To purchase tickets, click here.

Hotel Room Blocks

Paso Robles Inn: call our front desk at 1-800-676-1713 and ask for the Paso Robles Event Center corporate discount, which will be 12% off the best available rate at time of booking.

The Oaks Hotel: mention RHONE RANGERS when booking at 805-237-8700 for a 12% discount for a one or two night stay, 15% on a three-night stay.

More hotel partners coming soon.

Vintage Eve Circa 8/2016: Taking Over Skirball, Rhone Rangers LA 2016 Part One

August 13, 2019 by evebushman

The Rhone Rangers rode into the Skirball last weekend and as a major Rhone wine lover I was thrilled to attend the tasting again. A seminar and luncheon was also offered in the day’s events, see an upcoming article from Contributing Editor Michael Perlis as he covered that portion.

Wine 101ers: What is a Rhône

Basically Rhône grapes were born in the Rhône Valley of France and are now grown here in the U.S. The most common reds make up the “GSM” blend: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. On the white end you may have already had a Viognier – think Sauvignon Blanc without the high acid and with more delicate fruit. Other whites that may have crossed your palate are Roussanne and Marsanne, sometimes alone or in a white Rhône blend. If you want to wine geek out more here is a listing of “The 22 Rhone Ranger Grapes” direct from the Rhone Rangers website.

Tony Quealy from Halter Ranch Vineyard and Gary Stewart from Four Brix Winery.

Wineries A-F (Part Two, Wineries H-Z will run next week)

For some of you that think I was nuts to skip a particular winery…it may have been because I “Gave a Positive Review Already” and chose to forage on to other wineries. These wineries will be noted as GPRA and will have a hyperlink to my review…if I can find it. While some others, that may have been equally stellar as those I did visit, suffered my absence (Ha!) due to me suffering a wee bit of palate fatigue, so those are noted as SPF. (Editor’s note: any links for the West Ranch Beacon, aka WRB, are now closed, the webmaster chose not to save the links when he closed up his site. Also note that every article I wrote for the WRB is re-purposed on this site every Tuesday.)

Photos: https://www.facebook.com/eve.bushman/posts/10208640076546763?pnref=story

Adelaida Cellars – GPRA I will never forget the wine dinner I had with some nicely aged wines from the Adelaida cellar – and a lesson that Paso wines don’t have to be drunk right away. http://www.westranchbeacon.com/category.php?catg=8&id=2721 and http://www.westranchbeacon.com/visit-article-archives-view.php?catg=8&id=6287

Andrew Murray Vineyard – SPF

Beckmen Vineyards – Enjoyed the 2013 Cuvee Le Bec Red Blend and a 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon at a tasting two weeks ago with Tasting Room Mgr. Neil Redmond (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208567024880517&set=pcb.10208567026520558&type=3&theater) so I skipped the Cuvee at this tasting but really enjoyed a big yet balanced wine club offering: The 2014 PMV Syrah Clone #1.

Bernat – SPF

Bonny Doon – Rock star (and there were a few of them at the event repping their wineries) Randall Grahm poured about a dozen of his wines. I had been a fan of his “Le Cigare” label for as long as I can remember. Well, at least since I first heard the story about the law against landing a flying saucer in the vineyards of France. This time I really liked the 2011 Le Cigare Volant Red Blend, 2011 Le Cigare Volant Reserve Red Blend, Clos de Gilroy Grenache, 2014 Old Telegram Mourvedre and the 2011 Bien Nacido Vineyard “X-Block” Syrah. My absolute faves being the Reserve, Mourvedre and the X-Block.

Broken Earth Winery – SPF

Calcareous Vineyard – A beautiful winery with an expansive view for picnickers paired with equally outstanding wines. Been a favorite of mine for many years, so it was a treat to see them at Rhone Rangers. This time I enjoyed the fruit and spice in the 2013 Syrah, the 2016 Tres Violet blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, the 2013 Moose blend of Syrah and Petit Verdot and the tart and bright 2015 Lily Blanc blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier. I had a full lineup to taste back in 2011 here: http://evewine101.com/2011/04/29/calcareous-vineyards-lineup-paired-with-pals/ 2014 here: http://westranchbeacon.com/weekly-column.php?id=2342 and most recently here: http://www.westranchbeacon.com/visit-article-archives-view.php?catg=8&id=6287

Cass Winery – GPRA http://www.westranchbeacon.com/weekly-column.php?id=5402,

http://evewine101.com/2016/01/05/vintage-beacon-april2011-a-truly-inspired-cass-wine-pairing-dinner/ and most recently: http://www.westranchbeacon.com/visit-article-archives-view.php?catg=8&id=6287 another rock star, Ted Plemons, co-owner of Cass Winery was pouring once again. This time I only had one: the 2013 Rockin’ One Red Blend, tasty stuff.

Chacewater – GPRA http://www.westranchbeacon.com/weekly-column.php?id=5402

Clayhouse Wines – SPF

CONSILIENCE WINES – SPF

Derby Wine Estates – Enjoyed the steely fruit in the 2014 Picpoul Blanc, the 2012 Grenache Blanc, 2012 Fifteen 10 Red Blend, the very big 2013 Petite Sirah and the spice and bright red fruit of the 2011 Mourvedre. One of my favorite tables.

Ecluse Wines – GPRA Tasted these Paso wines very recently, and I loved their entire lineup. http://evewine101.com/2016/02/26/ecluse-unlocking-a-paso-favorite/

Epoch Estate Wines – The two red blends were simply awesome: the Syrah heavy 2012 Ingenuity Red Blend and the Big/Spicy/Yummy 2013 Estate Red Blend.

Fess Parker & Epiphany – GPRA and SPF

Four Brix Winery – GPRA I was just at the winery this past April however I didn’t get to see co-owner/winemaker Gary Stewart – yet another rock star – at that time. It was nice to be able to chat with him at this event…and see that he was pouring all of my favorites. Don’t miss the “Smitten” Viognier.

http://www.westranchbeacon.com/weekly-column.php?id=6074

Part Two of this story will run next Tuesday.

Eve's Wine 101