Had the pleasure of sitting in on a lecture of the wines of the Valle de Guadalupe with the LA Wine Writers at our favorite spot for a wine paired luncheon, Napa Valley Grille, a few weeks ago. Will share what I learned and tasted below, or you can just skip to the story in photos here.
Some Things We Learned
There are over 200 years of wine history in the area, with the first grapes, table grapes, being planted before the 16th century. Jesuit priests reactivated winemaking in the Tijuana area in 1791. In the 1800s the Dominicans came in, the Jesuits were out, and planting began north of Ensenada. By the 1900s Russian Molokans fled Russia and they too settled in Baja.
Over the years winemaking has changed due to new technology, growing techniques and water issues. (Underground aquifers are being exhausted due to drought. Drip systems can help control the salinity of the wines.) Most days reach 85 degrees, however the nights are at least 20 degrees lower and breezy. Stacie said that the fog creeps over in the morning and like a cat’s paws.
Some of the red wines being produced, with ABVs between 14-15%, include Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc, Carignan, Grenache, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Mision, Sangiovese and other Italian reds.
Whites, with ABVs between 12-13%, include Chardonnay, Chasselas, Chenin Blanc, Macabeo (aka Viura), Muscat Blanc, Palomino, Riesling, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Mision Blanco, Albariño and a variety of Italian whites.
There are many notable wineries including Casa de Piedra, Casa Magoni, Paraleo, Mogor Badan, Monte Xanic, L.A. Cetto, Montefiore and more. There are approximately 200 bonded wineries in total.
There is no system presently, for classifications on the labels, however, like California, bottles have to be made of 75% of one singular variety to have that variety’s name on the label. The only other items on a label have to be the producer’s name, region and the alcohol content.
One of Stacie’s mentors is winemaker, educator and a leader in the field, Hugo D’Acosta. He created an educational facility for budding winemakers in El Porvenir, has vineyards in Bordeaux and Pyrenees and partners with Wente in Napa and Milagro in San Diego.
These wines are “not your daddy’s wine” Stacie said, not like the wines of Bordeaux or Italy though they share similar varieties. The terroir makes a difference in the varietal character, which you may see via my tasting notes below.
The Wine and Pairing
This four course wine paired luncheon, one of many I’ve enjoyed with the LA Wine Writers, was outstanding as usual. Below are the courses, the wines (all retail for $35 and under), notes on the wines and the pairings.
Poached Bosc Pear with Burrata and Endive
Cavas Maciel, Venus Rosa of Merlot
100% Merlot Rose
Valle de Guadalupe
Aroma: Pink grapefruit, pear, pale florals, pebbles, flint.
Flavor: Peach, crisp acidity and then palate drying, a slight salinity.
Pairing: Very refreshing on the palate.
Diver Scallop Crudo with Cucumber Brunoises, Blood Orange Reduction
Monte Xanic, Sauvignon Blanc
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Valle de Guadalupe
Aroma: Lemon-lime, fruit cocktail, white peach.
Flavor: Meyer lemon, crisp, clean and low acid.
Pairing: The fruit in the dish and in the wine made for a good pairing.
Seared Cumin Crusted Seabass, Coconut Cauliflower Puree
El Cielo, Chardonnay 2015
100% Chardonnay (oaked)
Valle de Guadalupe
Aroma: Toasted oak, butter, cream, Golden Delicious apple, rich mouthfeel with some salinity.
Flavor: Lemon, oak, hay, balanced fruit and acid.
Second wine: Vinos Lechuza, Chardonnay 2016
100% Chardonnay (stainless steel)
Valle de Guadalupe
Aroma: Unsalted butter, banana, kiwi, pale oak.
Flavor: Golden Delicious apple (again), oak, buttery with a long finish.
Pairing: I preferred the oaked Chardonnay over the stainless with this dish.
Pasta Arrabbiata with Romano Pecorino
Vinos de la Reina, Sangiovese 2015
100% Sangiovese
Valle de San Vicente
Aroma: A slight vegetal aroma blew off in a few minutes, then I got plums, perfumy, char and a dusty quality.
Flavor: Red to dark fruit, pepper, tannic, dry, jammy. (Stacie said the jammy quality comes from the heat in the area.)
Pairing: Most of the writers inhaled this pairing and who am I to argue? But maybe I was just saving myself for the grand finale.
Santa Maria Grilled Tri Tip Chimichurri, Spring Farmer’s Vegetables, Tri Tip Jus.
Vina Cava, Tempranillo 2016
100% Tempranillo
Valle de Guadalupe
Aroma: Earth, dust, blueberry, blackberry – perfume to my nose.
Flavor: Deep, dark and dusty with black fruit, char and oak. Another wine I will look for again.
Pairing: The spice in this dish enhanced the wine perfectly.
Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.
