Perlises Pick: What Wines We Are Drinking At Home – Part 5

June 26, 2021 by Michael Perlis

We were initially planning to continue this series on lighter wines that we are enjoying at home with some more Northern California wineries, but the recent collaboration with Eve reviewing some rosés pointed Karen and me in another direction.

Ted Plemons of Cass

We drink rosés all year long but I realize that some wine drinkers especially fancy them in warmer months so it seemed like a good time to report specifically on a few of those that we have been pleased with recently.

One rosé that we really have been fond of is called “And Why Am I Mr. Pink?” – interesting name, no? The wine is produced by the Underground Wine Project, which is an intriguing name in its own right. I contacted them for more info, and they suggested I reach out to Trey Busch, Winemaker/Partner of the well-known and highly regarded Washington state winery Sleight of Hands Cellars. His response:

“Thanks for writing, and hope your liver has been holding up this past year :).

The Underground Wine Project is a collaboration between Sleight of Hand Cellars and Mark Ryan Winery. Mark and I have been friends for a long time, and we started the brand in 2007 with 100 cases of Syrah. That has transformed into adding And Why Am I Mr. Pink? to the lineup, as well as our 2 red wines, Idle Hands and Devils Playground.

We wanted an edgier brand than either of us have now, and the UWP allows for us to play in that area. Our Mr. Pink Rosé is mostly Sangio with some Syrah as well. All stainless steel (no barrel aging). We wanted to make a porch pounder rosé and this fits the bill. Juicy, terrific fruit, but then awesome acidity to hold it all together. We are making about 14,000 cases a year with the goal to increase production moving forward. National exposure with Whole Foods has helped.”

From Karen for the 2018 vintage: White/pink floral nose, light to medium finish, clean mouthfeel, moderate pear fruit, definitely a porch pounder as we were relishing it on our backyard patio on a warm Saturday evening with light nibbles for dinner.

Another winery that I’ve been a big fan of over the years Cass Winery in Paso Robles. [Yep, Paso again. I make no excuses, Paso wines are some of our favorites.] And I couldn’t pass up their special offer for Valentine’s Day of a dozen rosés. [Get it? Of course you do.]

From Karen for the 2019 vintage of the Cass Oasis Rosé: White flower floral note, dry medium body, red ripe berry fruit from the 63% Mourvedre, fresh, soft and hint of sweetness from the 37% Grenache.

Finally, an article about rosés wouldn’t be complete without the one that Karen has pronounced as her favorite for the last few years from Hoi Polloi winery right here in the Santa Clarita Valley. Doug Minnick [one of the founders of the Garagiste Festivals – I am so looking forward to these returning!] and his partners produce an assortment of terrific wines.

From Karen for the 2018 vintage of the Hoi Polloi Rosé from the Colburn Vineyard, Paso Robles: Fresh, crisp, true strawberry nose, medium to long clean finish, elegant, well-rounded body, silky soft tannins, this rosé of Grenache never fails to deliver!

Underground Wine Project

www.theundergroundwineproject.com

Cass Winery

www.casswines.com

Hoi Polloi

www.hoipolloiwinery.com

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Eve + Friends Taste Through Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri Tour

April 9, 2021 by evebushman

Once again, as I sometimes do, I get an invitation so remarkable I share the details with you. This is one of those times. Three cases of award-winning Italian wines to be tasted and reviewed over three zoom meetings in two weeks. This was literally the best two weeks I have spent over the last 52 weeks of our Covid year.

The tasting featured exceptional wines that have been awarded the coveted 2021 Tre Bicchieri designation, a designation given to only 1% of the top wines of Italy…

Just some of my favorites from the three tastings!

Tasting 3 of 3 (I’m starting with these as this was my favorite case. Note: Sup is Superior, Cl. is Classico, Ris. is Riserva)

Ottella-Veneto-Lugana Molceo Ris. 2018 EB: Notes of ripe apple, sweet limes, riverbed, minerality, fresh and balanced. Right out of the gate – I liked this first wine.

Perla del Garda-Lombardia-Lugana Sup. Madonna della Scoperta 2017 EB: Bruised apple, cream, salinity, stone, butter – Chardonnay-like. I liked this wine even more.

Tacchino-Piemonte-Barbera del M.to Albarola 2016 EB: Big dark fruit, black pepper, spicy with a beautifully balanced mouthfeel, my first red of the day and another on my favorite list.

Badia a Coltibuono-Toscana-Chianti Cl. 2018 EB: Bright red fruit, tart cherries, dust, rose petals, stemmy. This would be liked by my Pinot friends for sure.

Barone Ricasoli-Toscana-Chianti Cl. Gran Selezione Colledilà 2017 EB: Rich red fruit, balanced fruit and spice, earth, minerals, dry.

Tenuta di Arceno-Toscana-Chianti Cl. Ris. 2017 EB: Much darker on the nose and palate then the last two. Dark dry berries, espresso, dark chocolate, spice, drying tannins.

Tenuta Monteti-Toscana 2016 EB: Made with Petit Verdot, Cab and Cab Franc, this may have been my favorite wine of the day. Aged dark fruit, bark, cigar, sweet char, extra-long finish.

Piaggia-Toscana-Carmignano Ris. 2017 EB: Pungent dark fruit, rich, spicy, peppery, a hint of mint. A blend of Sangiovese, Cab and Merlot, and you guessed it, another favorite in the tasting.

Aria di Caiarossa-Toscana 2016 EB: A beautiful nose filled with rich fruit, pepper, concrete, toasted oak and sweet berry. A blend of Cab, Cab Franc and Merlot and yep, another one I wanted more of.

Tenuta di Sesta-Toscana-Brunello di Montalcino 2015 EB: A powerhouse of a wine with notes of dusty mature fruit, a lively palate that included cream and oak, heightened by floral notes and a fresh garden of herbs and flowers on the nose.

Speri-Veneto-Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Sant’Urbano 2016 EB: This may have been the one wine I had enjoyed in the past and did again today. This one was velvety, just perfect with fruit, spice and dust, with a lovely lightly sweet long finish.

Tenuta Sant’Antonio-Veneto-Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli 2016 EB: Our last wine of the day had a big nose filled with plums, prunes, oak, cigar, cigarette and smoke. Another great wine.

For the first two meetings I benefitted by having two collectors and two sommeliers joining me. The notes below are from Steve Roebuck, SR, Founder of Friends Who Like Wine in the Glass Facebook Group, edited down a bit due to space, with only additions from me as EB in italics.

Tasting 1 of 3:

2019 Bortolomiol Valdobbiadene Brut lus Naturae SR: Ocean spray/salt on the palate with warm pears and apples, hints of wet river rock blending with lemon, bread, almonds and grassy notes. EB: Fresh fruit cocktail and Golden Delicious apple. My first favorite of the tasting.

2019 Biancavigna Conegliano Valdobbiadene Rive di Soligo Extra Brut SR: Bouquet of marzipan, apple, pear, creamy oats, brine, lime, peach and minerals. The wine had bright acidity but lacked depth and harmony. EB: Bruised fruit, minerality, earth and a marked tartness.

2019 Borgoluce Valdobbiadene Rive di Collalto Extra Brut SR: Aromas of warm pears, apricots, brine, wet slate and almond paste. The wine was balanced with nice layers of fruit, minerals that gave way to a lovely finish with hints of candied ginger. EB: Wet pebbles and cream.

2018 I Campi Soave CI. Campo Vulcano SR: A hint of petroleum and notes of lemon, lychee, wet gravel, nutmeg, grass and a nice earthiness. The wine had a lovely refreshing finish with a crisp note of pineapple. EB: Tropical fruit, Meyer lemon, and no acidity. Another fave for me.

2018 Leonildo Pieropan Soave CI. Calverino SR: Lovely aromas of salted ginger, white pepper, white peach, fuzzy kiwi and wet minerals. The wine was intriguing with more lovely layers of peach, ginger, bitter chalkiness, baking spices and a nice savory quality. EB: Fresh citrus fruit, a sweeter nose that grew over time and great balance. My second favorite of the day.

2018 Tenuta Luisa Friuli Isonzo Friulano I Ferretti SR: Hints of beeswax, lemon zest, wet minerals, brine, apple, white peach, pear, almonds and band-aid. The palate was clean with hints of white peach, wet stones, cut herbs, with a touch of almond paste on the finish. EB: Lemon-lime.

2019 Tenuta Stella Collio Friulano SR: Wafting from my glass was a bouquet of honeysuckle, peach, apricot, buttered popcorn, anise seeds botrytis and a slight hint of burnt molasses. The wine was rich on the palate with integrated acidity that gave balance and structure to the wine. There was a luxuriousness to this wine, yet it was restrained and elegant. EB: Honey, churned butter, apricot. And another I really liked.

2018 Edi Keber Friuli Venezia Giulia Collio SR: An alluring bouquet of honey, apricots, brine, cinnamon, and anise seeds. On the palate there was a nice level of acidity that interwove through layers of tropical fruits, melon, honey and savory baking spices. Not as rich as the last wine but soft and elegant. EB:Favorited by one of the somms, lively lemon and a hint of licorice.

2019 Tiare – Roberto Snidarcig Friuli Venezia Collio Sauvignon SR: Typical old word aroma of Cat Pee blending in with hints of grass, salt, minerals, wet rocks, tree sap, slate, white peach, and spring flowers. The taste was crisp with nice acidity that lent balance to the palate, giving off hints of white peach, pear, wet slate, lemongrass and salted minerals. EB: Stone fruit, grass and earth.

2019 Bosco Del Merlo Veneto Sauvignon Blanc Turranio SR: This came across like a new world Sauvignon Blanc with a bouquet of honeycomb, lemon, apricot, bell pepper, white flowers and freshly cut herbs. The wine had lovely acidity that harmonized playfully on the palate with hints of lemongrass, apricot, honeysuckle, bell pepper and soft herbs. EB: Lemon rind, earthy, tart acidity.

2019 Cantina Kurtatsch Aldo Adige A.A. Sauvignon Kofl SR: The aromas coming from the glass were bold and constructed a bouquet of burnt matchstick, grinding stone, burnt popcorn and smoldering car tire. EB: Mown grass.

2018 La Roncaia Friuli Venezia Giulia- Eclisse SR: Briny minerals, peach, fennel, gun flint, and savory spices and somewhat muted. EB: Bright citrus fruit, cream.

Tasting 2 of 3:

Part Two from Steve Roebuck, SR, and only additions from me, as EB, in italics.

Cusumano-Sicilia-Etna Bianco Altamora 2019 SR: Notes of peach, apricot, brine, kiwi, lime and wet limestone. The wine displayed a plush creamy palate with a hint of lemon drop hard candy on the finish. EB: Floral.

Pala-Sardegna-Vermentino di Sardegna Stellato 2019 SR: A bouquet of white flowers, white peach, brine, wet river rocks, honeydew melon and lemongrass. It had a nice level of acidity that allowed for hints of white peach, melon and a touch of honeysuckle on the finish. EB: This was another favorite amongst our somms. Very floral, lemon peel, kiwi.

Surrau-Sardegna-Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Sciala 2019 SR: Aromas of Spring flowers, honeydew melon, brine and apricot. Similar on the palate with crushed gravel and lime notes. EB: Pear, salinity and minerality.

Feudo Antico-Abruzzo-Tullum Pecorino Biologico 2019 SR: An interesting bouquet of fresh cut fennel, baked bread, cheese yeast, pears, brine, limestone and lemons. A nice acidity that brought harmony to the layers of orchard fruits that played off the crisp minerals. EB: Our somm liked this one as well, found it savory. Lots of fruit and earth.

Tenuta Terraviva-Abruzzo-Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Giusi 2019 SR: The wine seemed a bit off to me; however, the bouquet gave off aromas of strawberries, cranberries, lime and gunflint. EB: Cooked fruit.

Valle Reale-Abruzzo-Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Vign. di Popoli 2015 SR: A lovely bouquet of dusty earth, coffee, pepper, cherries, pine nuts and Jolly Rancher hard candy. Medium plus in body with rounded tannins that gave way to hints of cherries, dusty earth, minerals and soft herbs. EB: Balanced.

Poggio Le Volpi-Lazio-Roma Rosso Ed. Limitata 2017 SR: An expressive bouquet of cherries, espresso, white pepper, prunes and molasses. Full bodied with rounded tannins and a palate displaying hints of cherries, prunes, cut dill and wood. EB: Dark fruit, spice and incense.

Donnachiara-Campania-Taurasi 2016 SR: An alluring bouquet of cherries, coffee, caramel, herbs, vanilla, burnt sugar and cassis fruit. Full bodied with gripping tannins that painted the palate with hints of dark berry fruit, earthy minerals, herbs, spice and a touch of caramel. EB: Our two collectors liked this one. Espresso, dark dusty fruit – black cherry – and tannins.

Felline-Puglia-Primitivo di Manduria Zinfandel Sinfarosa Terra Nera 2017 SR: A rich bouquet of blackberries, cherries, toffee, coffee, pepper, bell pepper, molasses and notes of raisins. Full bodied with gripping tannins that brushed the palate with hints of dark berry fruit, coffee, white pepper, dusty earth and herbs. A nice level of extraction going on that brought richness to the wine. EB: Sweet tobacco, rich and layered, ash. My husband’s pick of the day.

Coppi-Puglia-Gioia del Colle Primitivo Senatore 2017 SR: Notes of cherry, powered chocolate, coffee, dried herbs, white pepper, bell pepper, decaying forest floor, graphite, brine and dusty earth. The wine was medium plus in body with gripping tannins that gave way to hints of cherries, chocolate, bitter coffee, herbs, and lead pencil. EB: Tri-color peppercorn, blackberry jam, more fruit than spice, balanced.

Pietradolce-Sicilia-Etna Rosso Archineri 2017 SR: Hints of dried cherries, leather, menthol tobacco, mint and pomegranate. Medium plus in body with layers of fruit that harmonized nicely with hints of olives, cedar and dusty minerals. EB: Like a Pinot Noir with stewed cherry, brambles and rich earth.

Cottanera–Sicilia-Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo 2016 SR: A vibrant bouquet of rose petals, cherries, coffee, chocolate, bell pepper, brine and cedar. Medium plus in body with gripping tannins that gave way to a palate painted with hints of cherries, pomegranate, chocolate, earthy forest floor, minerals and wood. EB: Again, like a Pinot Noir, with pungent berry fruit.

These are links to the two photo albums Roebuck made:

https://www.facebook.com/roebuck.steve/posts/10221692263527457

https://www.facebook.com/roebuck.steve/posts/10221704825561500

Social Media Handles

@bortolomiol_proseccosuperiore @biancavigna_prosecco @borgoluce
@icampiwinery @pieropanwine @tenutaluisa @tenutastellacollio @edi.keber
@tiarevini @boscodelmerlo @cantinakurtatsch @laroncaia @cusumanowinery @palawines @vignesurrau @feudo.antico @tenutaterraviva @valle_reale @poggiolevolpi @donnachiarawinery @agriculturalfelline @vinicoppi @pietradolce @cottanera @ottellawinery @perladelgarda.official @luigi_tacchino @badia_coltibuono @ricasoli1141 @tenutadiarceno @tenuta_monteti_official @piaggia_winery @caiarossa @tenutadisesta @speriwinery @tenutasantantonio

https://www.gamberorossointernational.com/wines/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

One Bottle Post: 2004 Poggio Il Castellare Brunello Di Montalcino

January 29, 2021 by evebushman

In keeping with my “Rona” series, aka more one-bottle blog posts because I can’t go out for wine, this week I give you the 2004 Poggio Il Castellare Brunello Di Montalcino, a remarkable Brunello made from Sangiovese grapes. (In my experience a Brunello take less time to aerate than their equally famous cousin, the Barolo made from Nebbiolo grapes. And I’m talking 90 minutes in a decanter for a Brunello compared to about seven or more hours for a Barolo – give or take an hour. This matters to me most as I don’t always know by 11 am what I’ll want to drink at 6pm, or worse: I do know what wine I want with dinner but the wine wasn’t ready to drink by dinner time. Back up bottles have become more important to me for this situation.)

Now back to this wine! This is the social media post I shared last month on this Brunello, with tasting notes and scores:

What great wine have you found in your glass lately? I found this in our cellar, hoping Eddie has another bottle: 2004 Poggio Il Castellare Brunello Di Montalcino, 14% alcohol, decanted for 90 minutes and oh, so good. On the nose this Sangiovese delivered dark cherry, toasted oak, black peppercorn, sweet char off a good filet, espresso, sandalwood and a sweet bread note reminiscent of a waffle cone. The taste had the same notes, very peppery, tannic with all dark fruit and dark chocolate. The finish had a nice sweet note to it as well. Did a little Googling and found that K and L has it on their wait list and sells for $46.95, which I think is a good price, Wine Spectator gave it 96 points in 2009 and awarded it the #11 spot for the Top 100 wines of the year. Cellar Tracker gave it 92, Wine Enthusiast 91. Some recommended to drink by 2013 but I thought it was great now in 2021.

After the tasting I did a little more research on this particular vintage and the winery. I learned from looking at images of the winery that it would be spectacular to visit. From their Instagram I learned that they also have an incredible restaurant on their Montalcino property. On their website there are tabs for Private Dinners, their Tavern, and more.

Also, since I brought it up in my opening paragraph, in regards to length of time to decant a Barolo I searched the internet and learned that anywhere between one and two hours seemed to be the sweet spot for most vinophiles. Looking further I found that Wine Folly says two for a Brunello and three for a Barolo. So this is just an FYI for you when you want to try these varietals.

From the winery website:

In Tuscany there are places that can tell ancient stories and characters. The Baroncini family already started producing wine in 1489. So from father to son, 500 years have passed, and still today in Montalcino, Bruna and Samuele, produce wine as if to testify how time cannot scratch the traditions.

The high quality of the wines produced in the Montalcino area was already known at the time of the Etruscans, who had developed active settlements on these hills. The name “Tenuta Poggio Il Castellare” given to the company brings us back to the historical roots of the place: to the finds of an ancient settlement with the remains of houses and towers on the top of the hill of the same name.

For those that like to geek out from tech sheets, this is also from their website:

Production Area: Montalcino
Mixed Grapes: 100% Sangiovese Grosso
Terrain: Pliocene origins lands of predominantly clayey marl. They tend to reach considerable depth, offering great minerality
Growing System: Spurred cordon with dug soil
Density: 3500 vines/hectare
Average output per hectare: 45 hectolitres
Altitude: 500 metres
Microclimate: The climate is typically Mediterranean, with showers concentrated in autumn and spring. The middle hill area is frequently windy, which is ideal to keep the vines healthy. The climate is generally mild, with a high rate of sunny days during the whole vegetative phase: these conditions guarantee a gradual and complete ripening of the grapes.
Production Process: Manual harvest when the grapes are perfectly ripe. Alcoholic fermentation with controlled temperature (26°C) for about 10-12 days on the skins. Malolactic fermentation in steel vats. Refining in 2500lt Slavonian oak barrels for 30 months and in 225 lt French oak barrels for 20 months. Further refining in bottles for 4 months before the sale
Organoleptic Properties:
Colour – ruby red verging to garnet-red;
Bouquet – very intense, lingering, with hints of cherry fruit and spices;
Taste –well-balanced, with velvety tannins and a long aromatic grip on the palate
Alcoholic Gradation: 14,5% VOL
Serving Temperature: 22,0°C
Pairings: seasoned cheese, red meat, roasts, braised meat, game

Instagram: @PoggioIlCastellare

https://www.facebook.com/poggioilcastellare/

http://www.tenutetoscane.com/castellare/english/cellar-castellare.html

https://poggioilcastellare.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Vintage Eve Circa 6/2018: The “Bliss Wine Club” Review

December 29, 2020 by evebushman

Hi Eve, … I wanted to see if you would be interested in some free wine. My friends and I partnered recently to start a direct to consumer wine club focused on natural dry-farmed wines. Many of our wines have been featured in fancy restaurants seen in chef’s table but now we are branching out from wholesale to also doing a direct to consumer channel. I would love to send 4 bottles and see what you think about our wine. Our company is called Bliss Wine Club. blisswineclub.com. Thanks!

From Bliss Wine Club on Facebook.

These are a list of the wines I received for review, and the notes from Bliss Wine Club. If you follow each underlined hyperlink you will find the technical sheets and short videos that give you a little back-story on the wineries – I thought that the inclusion of video was a pretty cool idea to help consumers understand more about the wine and winery. So many of us have so many choices, knowing and learning a bit more behind the wine is a win win.

Sanbiagio Rosso 2016

Winery: Cantina Cenci
Region: Umbria, Italy

Merlot Sangiovese blend.

Colheita 2010

Winery: Quinta da Zaralhoa
Region: Douro, Portugal

Red blend.

Rufia Branco 2016

Winery: Quinta da Boavista
Region: Dão, Portugal

Natural white wine with skin contact.

Terras de Tavares 2006

Winery: Quinta da Boavista
Region: Dão, Portugal

Jaen/Touriga de Nacional

My Tasting Notes

Sanbiagio, Rosso 2016

13.5% alcohol

Dark ruby in color, with a nose of dried cherry, blackberry, mushroom, tobacco and dried earth. Flavors of bright red to black fruit, stems, tannins, slightly tart but balanced with a long finish. This one, like most if not all Italian wines, could age a bit.

Colheita 2010

Quinta Da Zaralhoa

13.5% alcohol

My favorite of the tasting. The color of black cherries with aromas from sweet port, Luxardo cherry and crushed plums to milk chocolate with hints of sage, cedar and cigar. On the mouth I enjoyed rich, dark dry fruit, figs, cigarette and firm tannins in a very long and satisfying finish.

Rufia Branco 2016

Vinho Branco, White Wine, 12% alcohol

Cloudy and deep gold in color, with aromas of Meyer lemon, overripe peach, cantaloupe, lemon hard candy, stones and chalk. On the mouth there were notes of bright citrus, lemon, lemon zest, pear and chalky earth.

Terras de Tavares 2006

Vinho Tinto, Red Wine, 13% alcohol

My second favorite in the tasting. Very blackberry color, with whiffs of blackberry, black cherry, stewed fruit, black plums, earth, black licorice, mint, espresso and char. The taste was nicely balanced yet light, earthy with good dark fruit and tannins. This one aged gracefully.

Bliss Wine Club Info

By subscribing, you agreed that we’ll send you a new wine shipment every 2 months based on the preferences you’ve indicated.
• You can modify or skip any scheduled order online at www.blisswineclub.com
• Your satisfaction is 100% guaranteed. If you don’t love the wine we picked out for you, we’ll give you a full refund.
• Your membership is active and shipments will continue until you cancel. You can cancel at anytime online or by emailing support@blisswineclub.com

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Releases from Castello di Fonterutoli with Giovanni Mazzei and Eve!

December 11, 2020 by evebushman

Another week, and another great opportunity for a Zoom meeting, this time with a winery in Italy, Chianti Classico to be exact:

…Giovanni Mazzei debuts three new Chianti Classico Gran Selezione releases from Castello di Fonterutoli, the historic Tuscan estate where his family has been making wine for 24 generations. Castello di Fonterutoli’s vineyards are situated within the territory of three adjoining Chianti Classico municipalities: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. Beginning with the 2017 harvest, the Mazzei family launched a new approach to its Sangiovese-based range of wines, aimed at highlighting the biodiversity of these three terroirs in three Chianti Classico Gran Selezione wines, each with its own inimitable character.

What We Learned from Mazzei

The wines we would taste were from different vineyards and varied terroirs. These were to highlight a new approach to Sangiovese winemaking. In over two dozen generations of making wine – back then it was talked about in barrel now it’s talked about in bottle – there has been an evolution to the winemaking.

The different vineyards, see the photo of the map, cover three districts and include seven vineyard zones. Each give different “aromatics, elegance and power.” There will be discernable little differences between the different districts. We were one of the first to sample these wines. Mazzei then invited us to visit, said he would love to take us through all of the vineyards in his Land Rover to see it for ourselves. Who doesn’t want to do that?

The Wines and Tasting Notes (Some of the notes are ones I agreed with but made by Mazzei or another participant in the Zoom.)

Badiola Gran Selezione 2017 – from the estate’s highest altitude vineyards, below the 12^th century church of La Badiola. SRP $99 From the tech sheet: Aged 16 months in French oak barrels (500L, 30% new), then finessed for five months in concrete tanks before bottling. JAMES SUCKLING, 96 points, July 2020. 94 PTS WINE ADVOCATE 8/20 .92 PTS VINOUS 9/20. 91 PTS DECANTER 2/20. Our notes: Red cherries, red currant, spice, toasted oak, earth; same tart cherries, brambly.

Castelllo di Fonterutoli Gran Selezione 2017 – made from a selection of the best vineyard plots surrounding the hamlet of Fonterutoli. SRP $74. From the tech sheet: Aged 18 months in French oak barrels (500L, 50% new), then finessed for four months in concrete tanks before bottling. JAMES SUCKLING, 96 points, July 2020. 93 PTS WINE ADVOCATE 8/20. 92 PTS VINOUS 9/20. Our notes: Robust red fruit, black cherry, more brambly than the Badiola, lavender, peppery; full bodied, dry red fruit with silky tannins.

Vicoregio 36 Gran Selezione 2017 – a blend of 36 different Sangiovese biotypes (aka clones) deriving from 50 years of research, from the single Vicoregio vineyard. SRP $99. From the tech sheet: Aged 18 months in French oak barrels (500L, 50% new), then finessed for four months in concrete tanks before bottling. 95 points WINE ADVOCATE, August 2020. 95 PTS JAMES SUCKLING 7/20. 94 PTS VINOUS 9/20. Our notes: Thick, rich, raisins, prunes and other dark fruit; tannic, dry, “grip” and velvety.

Giovanni then shared the soon-to-be-released Siepi 2018 Toscana IGT, a 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Merlot that was first produced in 1992. SRP $130. From the tech sheet: 70% of the wines are aged in new French barriques (Merlot: 18 months; Sangiovese: 16 months), then blended and aged an additional 4 months in concrete tanks. The wine is bottle aged for 4 months before release. 94-96 POINTS, WINE ADVOCATE, August 2020. Our notes: Really pretty nose, red to blue fruit, earth, smoky; complex, balanced (probably due to Merlot influence), silky, black fruit, chocolate, very drinkable now.

About Castello di Fonterutoli

In the Mazzei family since 1435, Castello di Fonterutoli stretches across 1,600 acres of rolling Tuscan countryside in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone, taking in 7 areas under vine that cover a total of 290 acres. The seven vineyard zones are themselves broken down into no less than 120 plots which lie at an altitude of between 230 and 570 metres above sea level. Vineyard cultivation is entirely manual, up to and including the grape harvest, with vine care solutions tailored to each plot. Our centuries-old acquaintance with this territory, combined with more than half a century of research, has allowed us to base our range on36 biotypes of Sangiovese, 18 of which are mass selections exclusive to Castello di Fonterutoli. No other Chianti Classico winery can boast this level of biotype diversity.

The 2017 Vintage

It’s hard to remember such a remarkable season as 2017, when a succession of challenging weather events demanded all our instinct and expertise. A frost around 20 April was followed by a spring and summer when it hardly rained at all, with summer temperatures hitting the high notes and inducing a water stress that limited grape growth and reduced bunch weight. Towards the end of the season we took a gamble, waiting for September rains, and were rewarded with 130mm of rainfall in twenty days, which together with an abrupt fall in temperatures (with lows reaching 5 °C) gave the grapes new vigour. Grape quality was therefore good overall with peaks of excellence, far exceeding our pre-rainfall expectations, though yields were down 35% on the yearly average.2017 turned out to be of those ‘textbook’ years when great experience and a careful monitoring of every single vineyard, on a tailored, plot-by-plot basis, were essential to winemaking success.

www.palmbay.com

www.taubfamilyselections.com

Gancia, Maker of Italy’s First Sparkling Wines, Launches Still Wines

December 2, 2020 by evebushman

NEW YORK, /PRNewswire/ — Renowned Italian wine pioneer Gancia is pleased to announce its foray into still wines with the launch of Gancia Chianti D.O.C.G. and Gancia Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie D.O.C. These two easy-to-drink varietals are crafted as an expression of Italian lifestyle, celebration, and the dolce vita. They join Gancia’s extensive portfolio of award-winning sparkling wines and liqueurs.

Renowned Italian wine pioneer Gancia announces the launch of its Chianti D.O.C.G. and Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie D.O.C.

“After 170 years of winemaking excellence, we are delighted to announce we are getting into the still wines business, launching our first Pinot Grigio and Chianti under the storied Gancia label,” said Scott Oliver, CEO of Roust Americas. “These two wines are Italian classics and crafted with both quality and value in mind. We believe our launch comes at a time when consumers are more inclined than ever to seek out comforting high quality wines that deliver exceptional value for money.”

Gancia Chianti D.O.C.G. is a fruit forward blend of primarily Sangiovese grapes that is rich and velvety, making this a refined and enjoyable wine that pairs beautifully with red-sauced pastas and grilled meats. The refreshing Gancia Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie D.O.C. offers a fresh citrus fruit aroma and balanced floral taste and is ideal as an aperitif with light hors d’oeuvres or with a seafood lunch or dinner.

Both Gancia still wines will be available for purchase starting in New York in 2020 and then throughout North America starting Q1 2021.

About Gancia:

Founded in 1850 by Carlo Gancia, the creator of the first Italian sparkling wine, Gancia is an international leader in the category of sparkling wines, prosecco, and vermouth, with over 40 million bottles produced annually. Gancia is distributed in more than 65 countries. The Gancia sparkling wine portfolio ranges from sweet to dry and from Charmat method to prestige vintages of Classic Method. http://gancia.com

About Roust Americas:

Roust Americas is a subsidiary of Roust Group, the world’s second largest vodka producer by volume. Roust Americas is responsible for the management, distribution and marketing of world-class brands like Russian Standard® Vodka, Zubrowka® Vodkas, Green Mark® Vodka, Gancia® wines and liqueurs, and De Luze® cognac.

Discovering Montemar Again, and Probably Again and Again?

August 28, 2020 by evebushman

I remember tasting Montemar wines at past Wine in the Pines events, and that a few friends were in love with their wines, especially their Pinot Noirs. When my #LAWineWriters group planned a trip to Lompoc I looked around to see who else I would like to visit, and remembered that Montemar was there. Besides Pinot they are also known for Rhônes – GSM blends and Syrah – as well as Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Rose, Viognier, Grappa and more.

When I met up with owner Caryn Arrowood she gave me their wine list, and whew, there was a lot to choose from. (For a writer, who of course has to spit everything, I limited myself to varietals that I normally appreciate.) Caryn commented that they make “too many” of a lot of varietals. They do indeed, lucky us.

But before we got to tasting Caryn showed me their life-size chalkboard where visitors could write down their goals (sadly Caryn’s husband Steve had his life’s goals written there before he passed away due to cancer), organic garden (Caryn offered that we take anything we like home with us), their sandy beach (yes, you read that right), large paintings of popular musicians one of their club members had done and plenty of well-spaced seating areas. Now, I grew thirsty to taste.

Tasting

The first wine we tasted, Caryn’s favorite and mine now as well, was their 2018 Grenache Blanc with delightful notes of fresh pineapple and fruit cocktail. Next up, a 2014 Sangiovese from Stolpman Vineyard, proved once again how great the Stolpman Vineyards are, and how a great winemaker can do great things with it. It had a beautiful nose filled with light red fruit, spice and brambles. Another wine with great fruit and spice, as well as mushrooms and violets, was the 2014 Grenache, I was now three for three in finding favorites at Montemar.

A dark, earthy, spicy wine with great balance, their 2014 GSM was the ticket. This rendition had 50% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 25% Mourvedre. A 2013 Syrah, Thompson Vineyard, had me at a “hello blueberry” youthful taste for a 2013, that also had a bright mint and some red earth notes to it.

Next up was their 2012 Syrah EBA (Extended Barrel Aged) from the Watchhill Vineyard. This wine has 12 more months in barrel, for a total of 30 months, before bottling. Caryn commented that this was “a good vineyard” for them. I got lots of red jammy fruit, pepper, crushed leaves, with a long tannic finish. Another favorite that lingered in my mind for a long time after tasting. Our final wine was a 2015 Petite Verdot from Happy Canyon. It was dark, dusty, with lots of great fruit and the most perfumed bouquet.

Note: Though Steve had been the winemaker for all of the wines we tasted, we learned that their son Kyle Arrowood, who Caryn said had been “a garage winemaker since he was a kid”, had taken up the helm. I look forward to returning and tasting Kyle’s vintages. The Arrowoods have long-time contracts with many vineyards where they can “control the fruit”, and I expect that to continue for many years to come.

Montemar Wines

1501 E. Chestnut Ct., STE E. Lompoc.

805-735-5000

https://www.montemarwinery.com/

https://www.facebook.com/Montemarwines/

https://www.montemarwinery.com/reopening.html

Montalcino’s Tenuta Luce releases 25th Vintage of Flagship Luce

August 27, 2020 by evebushman

MONTALCINO, ITALY (PRWEB) – Tenuta Luce, one of Tuscany’s most esteemed wine estates, celebrates the launch of the 25th vintage of its flagship wine Luce, the first blend of native grape Sangiovese and Merlot ever produced in the Montalcino area of Tuscany.

President of Tenuta Luce, Lamberto Frescobaldi commented: “Tenuta Luce is an utterly unique wine estate and the arrival of the 25th vintage of Luce provides an unrivalled opportunity to remind ourselves of that passionate commitment first marked 25 years ago in Montalcino by Vittorio Frescobaldi, together with Robert Mondavi, to create a wine truly unique to the area.” The Frescobaldi Group became the sole owner of Tenuta Luce in 2005.

“It all began when, together with the Mondavi family, we found a ‘home’ in Montalcino, that growing area of world-class wines,” recounts Lamberto Frescobaldi. “We started from a property, in the southwest quadrant of Montalcino, that exhibited the perfect qualities we needed to bring our dream into fruition. It’s close proximity to the sea, exposure to the sun, and peculiar combination of soils made it a magnetic spot.

“The local traditions, plus the long experience of Vittorio, Ferdinando, and Leonardo Frescobaldi were valuable road-signs for us,” Frescobaldi continues. “The challenge was to respect and learn from that tradition, yet to fashion a wine that would be a distinctly personal interpretation. In the sense that it exerted a powerful attraction for individuals of talent; they, with their expertise and commitment, gave life to producing Luce, year after year.”

The creators of Luce have successfully guarded this intangible heritage with the most profound respect – an uncompromisable foundation of their value system – that entails respect for the earth that with its fecund life-force offers its treasures to Montalcino; respect for the beauty of nature, that harmonious landscape which inspires those who gaze on it; respect for individuals, who have felt the attractive force of Luce and there, at one with it; and, finally, respect for the intelligence and questioning of those who have continued to support its vision.

The 2017 vintage anniversary bottle is dressed in a quote by Vittorio Frescobaldi:
“To know and respect the earth, the vineyards, and the individuals who work them is an essential part of what we do. Human intelligence engages in dialogue the beauty of nature, and the expression of terroir melds into Luce’s own rare interpretation of it. And voilà, the harmony of Luce.”

About Luce 2017
The 2017 growing season started with a cool spring that brought adequate rainfall, followed by a warm, sunny summer relieved by beneficent night-time breezes and rain in mid-September. These conditions delivered a relatively limited crop but of extremely high quality, and both the Merlot and Cabernet were harvested at peak ripeness.

Luce 2017 appears an intense, near-impenetrable ruby red. A rich, multi-layered bouquet alternates wild red berryfruit with intriguing hints of incense. That aromatic wealth continues onto the palate, supported by a vein of elegant tannins that sculpt an enviable structure, resulting in a wine of unmatched balance.

Grown in Los Angeles: Eve Gets A Taste of LA Wine

March 13, 2020 by evebushman

What a treat! Tasting from only four wineries – that specialize in making wine from LA County grapes! I knew three of the four already from past tastings, but this time it was a true focus on what they can do as we compared each. Below is the invite, wine list (hyperlinks go to their Facebook pages) and my notes. Photos are here.

Jasper Dickson at the helm of his winery. (Co-owner Amy Luftig Viste not pictured.)

Invitation

Come join The Los Angeles Vintner’s Association at Angeleno Wine Company …for an extraordinary tasting of locally grown, Los Angeles wine! We’ve gathered four amazing local wineries, and assembled a line-up of 10+ incredible wines, all grown right here in Los Angeles County. Come meet the winemakers, and discover the true potential of local wine as you taste your way through this diverse collection of styles, single varietals, and blends.

Participating wineries include: Angeleno Wine Company, Acri Wine Co, Byron Blatty Wines, and Cavaletti Vineyards.

Acri Wine Company – This was a new winery for me to try. All were barrel samples but showed great fruit and potential. Especially the 2019 Sangiovese, also from the Antelope Valley. My husband liked the depth in the 2018 Syrah and likewise thought it would cellar nicely.

2018 Syrah, Antelope Valley

2019 Zinfandel Barrel Sample, Antelope Valley

2019 Sangiovese, Antelope Valley.

Angeleno Wine Company – Our host winery for the event, about 60 minutes away and definitely worth a visit. Besides the list below I also snagged a sample of their chilled orange wine – made orange by skin contact with these Spanish/Portuguese grapes I was unfamiliar with: Treixadura, Godello and Loureiro. These same varietals were also in the White Field Blend I favored, with the addition of Albariño.

2017 White Field Blend, Sierra Pelona Valley

2018 Bike Path Red (also served a little chilled, blend of Tempranillo and Grenache) Sierra Pelona Valley

2017 Grenache, Sierra Pelona Valley (This is from the Alonso Family Vineyards. They also make their own label, and by “they” I mean Juan Alonso. He has made his own wine for many years, and is the longtime owner of Le Chene.)

Byron Blatty Wines – Mark Blatty was there charming the guests, as usual, suffice it to say he had the busiest table. My favorite wine in his lineup was the 2016 Evenfall Red (I jokingly call it my namesake!) blend of Tempranillo and Petite Sirah. His Syrah and Malbec garnered a lot of attention, and an extra special pour of his soon-to-be released proprietary red – only 23 cases – of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot, was powerful! Stay tuned for that release. I predict this to be my next favorite from Byron Blatty.

2016 Agenda Syrah, Los Angeles County

2016 Evenfall Red, Los Angeles County

2017 Pragmatic Malbec, Los Angeles County

Cavaletti Vineyards – With a tasting room in nearby Moorpark, this is a winery to visit. Besides the wines listed below owner/winemaker Patrick Kelley also shared a 2018 Nebbiolo. I enjoyed them all, with special nods to the Cab and Nebbiolo, really fine fruit that will develop with a little more aging. I bought two of his Rose, a blend of Tempranillo and Grenache, as it was very good and the price was only about $25 per bottle.

2018 109 Mile Rosé, Los Angeles County

2018 Swayze (not Patrick) Grenache, Antelope Valley

2018 Whispering Bells Cabernet Sauvignon, Malibu Coast

Angeleno Wine Company is located at 1646 North Spring Street, Los Angeles, CA 90012.

Vintage Eve 3/2017: Idaho Wine Country and the Wine-Y Women

February 4, 2020 by evebushman

I studied just a half page on the wines of Idaho when I was preparing to be tested (and pass) my American Wine Specialist® Certification course last year. Frankly, I was pretty intrigued by all of the U.S. states that found a way to make wine that fit their location, climate and soil conditions.

But I didn’t expect to receive an entire case of wine from Idaho to taste and review. To do that, in a timely manner, I called in the “Big Guns” to help me: The Wine-y Women Unwind meet-up group led by Kathy Lockhart. Within three hours of her announcement, of a guided tasting and lesson for free (the wine was free, so it wouldn’t be right to charge for the tasting) our class was booked. The only thing we asked the 20 ladies in attendance to do was to bring a dish to share, and be prepared to take notes on aroma and flavor, with some help from me, so I could write up this article as a “collective tasting.”

Idaho Tasting Notes

(The first three or so descriptors in both aroma and flavor are mine, additional descriptors are notes from the Winey Women, overall favorites also noted.)

Cinder Small Lot Series Sauvignon Blanc, 2014

Aromas: Dried pineapple, honeydew melon, apricot, peach, Meyer lemon, green Granny Smith apple, grapefruit, pear, pepper, stone.

Flavors: The same flavors we found in the aromas also presented in the palate as well as black and white pepper and oak.

Fujishin Family Cellars Reserve Viognier, 2015

Aromas: Fruit cocktail, pear, tangerine, apple, floral, vanilla, strawberry, kiwi, passion fruit, almond, eucalyptus and lychee.

Flavors: Lavender, same fruit again as we found on the nose, as well as lavender, lemon, and cloves, with a back palate that was slightly bitter and earthy.

Hat Ranch Winery Dry Moscato, 2015

Aromas: Honeysuckle, Meyer lemon, kiwi, orange, tropical fruit, melon, lavender soap, grapefruit, cinnamon, yeast.

Flavors: Lemon twist, limeade, grapefruit, shorter finish.

Clearwater Canyon Cellars Estate Syrah, 2014 (Favorite #1)

Aromas: Blue to black fruit, raspberry, milk and dark chocolate, black pepper, dark cherry, prune, cigar, oak.

Flavors: Spicy, jam on toast, cherry, plum, coffee, raisins, chocolate, cedar, black pepper, juniper, ginger.

Crossings Winery Cabernet Franc, 2012

Aromas: Pinot Noir like, with tart cherry, teriyaki beef jerky, smoke, marshmallow, prune.

Flavors: Tart bright cherries, strawberry, spice, meaty, slightly sweet, leather, pepper, oak.

Sawtooth Estate Winery Trout Trilogy Carmenere, 2013

Aromas: Luxardo cherry, mint, plum, vanilla, white pepper, blackberry, black cherry, raisin, cinnamon, artichoke, leather, earth.

Flavors: Big, spicy, red fruit, plum, blackberry, spice, vanilla, pepper, cedar, earthy, dry.

Bitner Vineyards Tempranillo, 2013 (Favorite #2)

Aromas: Chocolate covered cherries, blackberry, raisin, rose petals, perfumy, oak.

Flavors: Bright to dusty fruit, spice, cherry, cloves, cardamom, dried fruit, long finish.

Huston Vineyards Malbec, 2014

Aromas: Tobacco, black licorice, dried blueberry, blackberry, fig, suede, mushroom, wet earth.

Flavors: Lingering blueberry, blackberry, black pepper, jam, chocolate, leather, wet earth, woody, licorice, tannic.

Ste. Chapelle Panoramic Series Petit Verdot, 2012

Aromas: Dusty chocolate, blueberry, black cherry, white pepper, plum, prune, toasted marshmallow, black currant, spice, cream, oak, violet, mint.

Flavors: Dry fruit, raspberry, raisin, plum, black currant, cinnamon, vanilla, chocolate, vanilla, pepper, almond, marshmallow, tannic.

Williamson Orchards & Vineyards Sangiovese, 2012

Aromas: Raspberry, cherry, fig, vanilla, tobacco leaves, cinnamon, caramel, rosemary, fig, sweet.

Flavors: Dried fruit, red currant, spicy, pepper, musty, earthy, sweet tobacco, nutmeg cinnamon, perfumy, nuts, mint, dry.

Indian Creek White Riesling, 2015

Aromas: Pears in syrup, pineapple, orange blossom, tropical fruit, peach, apricot, lime, ginger, hibiscus, white pepper, honey, rose petals, steely and wet stones.

Flavors: Lemon hard candy, kiwi, pineapple, pear, honey, syrup, sweet strawberry, orange, almond.

Koenig Vineyards Botrytis Single Berry Select Late Harvest Riesling, 2014 (Favorite #3)

Aromas: Apricot, sweet pink grapefruit, pear, mango, passion fruit, honey, floral, vanilla.

Flavors: Viscous, peach, pear, apricot, orange, marmalade, caramel, jam, freshly cut hay.

From The Idaho Wine Commission

Rich, fertile volcanic soils. Abundant sun and water. High-elevation vineyards. An ideal climate, with winter dormancy and a warm growing season. Idaho wineries benefit from all of these natural advantages and more. Simply put, Idaho is a great place to make wine.

Oregon and Washington welcomed Idaho to the Northwest wine party in 2007, when the Snake River Valley became Idaho’s first American Viticultural Area. Idaho winemakers have a blank slate, in an absolutely gorgeous corner of the Northwest, that’s more affordable than other territories. Idaho is like Oregon was 20 years ago: as-yet undiscovered and finding its way. The market isn’t crowded, and it’s delightfully unrestrained by convention.

This leaves Idaho winemakers free to focus on their own private journey and simply make the best wine they can without worrying about it having to meet a particular flavor profile. They can make obscure varieties of wine that people will take to fast if done well.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.