Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: Jeff Cohn Cellars

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We’ve tasted wines from Jeff Cohn Cellars many times, but always at events, where the wines were poured by Jeff or his wife, Alexandra. We had never had an opportunity to sit down and taste through the lineup with Jeff and hear the full story.

We finally were able meet with Jeff at their recently opened tasting room in Healdsburg. You can read all about Jeff Cohn Cellars on the website here www.jeffcohncellars.com/about-our-story but ultimately, it turns out that their story is a multi-faceted love story.

First and foremost, the love story of Jeff Cohn Cellars is about Alexandra and Jeff and their family. They met while they were both working at the Hyatt Regency Crystal City in Virginia – Jeff was F&B Cost Controller and Alexandra was an accounting trainee. Coincidentally, they had both also attended Florida International University. Alexandra’s career path took her back to Florida and Jeff joined her there, working on cruise ships for two years. But being in the hospitality industry often means being bitten by the wine bug and eventually, they moved to California. Jeff had already worked as an intern at Boordy Vineyards in Maryland but during the process of obtaining his Master’s in Agricultural Chemistry at Cal State Fresno, he discovered French techniques as well as the wines of the Northern and Southern Rhone plus Zinfandel. The rest was history.

It is also apparent the love that Jeff has for his colleagues and mentors, both former and current, most notably the late Kent Rosenblum. Jeff went to work for Kent at Rosenblum Cellars after graduating from CSUF, moving up the line to eventually become winemaker and then vice president of winemaking and production. He left in 2006 to focus on Jeff Cohn Cellars [then called JC Cellars] which he had founded in 1996, but not before making his permanent mark on the wine world by having Rosenblum’s 2003 Rockpile Road Zinfandel hit #3 on the Wine Spectator Top 100 list.

Finally, and certainly not least, is Jeff’s love of wine grapes, particularly, as mentioned above, Rhones and Zins.

So yes, we are finally getting to what we tasted –

2017 Iris Sparkling Brut Rose – named after Jeff’s beloved mother, this delicious bubbly is a blend of 60% Grenache (Rossi Ranch), 20% Syrah (Rockpile) and 20% Mourvedre (Rossi Ranch). Modeled after the wines from the France’s Tavel region, Karen picked up notes of Persimmon.

2018 Rossi Ranch GSM – a classic blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre, this wine had a long finish, with sausage spices notes.

2018 Maggie’s Vineyard – 100% Zinfandel from vines that are over 120 years old         . Many textures and layers on this wine that Jeff dedicated to his friend Kent [see above].

2017 Sweetwater Springs – 100% Petite Sirah. Dark, ruby red, purple in color, big and balanced.

2017 Domain Des Chirats -100% Rockpile Syrah – A joint project with Yves Cuilleron, Northern Rhone winemaker from Chavanay, France (half of this wine’s production is exported to France). Big luscious berry notes; one of the finest Syrahs we’ve tasted.

2016 Stagecoach Marsanne – 85% Marsanne, 15% Roussanne. The last wine we tasted was a white. We asked Jeff why other wineries pour their whites first and he said “because they are doing it wrong.” Seriously though, white wines poured at the beginning of a tasting are often forgotten by the end. We wouldn’t have forgotten this one though no matter where in the tasting it was poured. A wonderful palate brightener with delicious tropical fruits to wake up the taste buds. Crisp citrus notes and a big mouth feel. This Napa Valley vineyard was bought by Gallo a few years ago so we are not sure what the future holds for these varietals there.

Jeff Cohn makes more wines in addition to the ones we tasted.  He has many more Rhones and single vineyard Zins sourced from Sonoma, Napa and the central coast. They are definitely worth a stop when you are in Healdsburg or in the Santa Rosa area or interested in making an online purchase.

We expect you’ll love them as much as we did.

Jeff Cohn Cellars

34 North St, Healdsburg, CA 95448

www.jeffcohncellars.com

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Guide to Santa Barbara Wine Country, Courtesy The Leta Hotel

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Santa Barbara County may be rightly famous for its reliably mild weather and sun-splashed scenery but these enviable assets have also made it a prized destination for wine lovers. Geography tells the story. 

Several million years ago, the mountains that rose along the Pacific Coast of North America mostly ran from north to south. But here in what’s now Santa Barbara County, the nascent peaks decided to veer off course and sprinted the opposite direction: east to west.  

This extraordinary geographic anomaly created a protected south-facing pocket of paradise, tucked between soaring peaks and offshore islands, where visitors and residents revel in a balmy climate amid stunning natural scenery.  

It also gave birth to an exceptionally diverse grape-growing region that lured winemaking pioneers starting in the 1960s. The towering peaks and sloping hillsides funnel cool winds and fog nearly 40 miles from the ocean through river valleys. The result? Myriad microclimates and a superior environment for premium wine grape cultivation.  

Santa Barbara County eventually earned an international reputation for world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Fast-forward to 2021, when Wine Enthusiast lauded Santa Barbara County as the world’s Wine Region of the Year.  

No matter what varietal your palate prefers, you’ll probably find it here. Santa Barbara County vineyards produce more than 70 varietals, primarily Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Cabernet, in seven approved AVAs (American Viticulture Areas). More than 275 wineries speckle the landscape in rural northern Santa Barbara County and line the streets of cities, towns, and villages.  

How to Choose With so many choices, what’s a wine lover to do? Start with a virtual visit to Santa Barbara Vintners, where you’ll find loads of info, including trails, maps, tours, and brief winery descriptions with links to websites.

Regional wineries range from rustic cottages to palatial manors. In recent years, the area has become known for its sustainable farming methods and holds a plethora of biodynamic, organic, and regenerative vineyards.  

Short on time? Head to the Santa Barbara Urban Wine Trail, with more than 30 wine-tasting rooms in six neighborhoods on the South Coast. Many wineries have two tasting locations: downtown Santa Barbara and another close to north county vineyards.

Want someone else to do the driving? Check out these wine tour companies.  

You can also maximize your time by focusing on tasting-room hubs. More than 40 tasting rooms line several walkable blocks in historic Los Olivos, a throw-back pioneer town about a 40-minute drive from The Leta Hotel.

Standouts include Coqueliquot, Larner, Future Perfect, Holus Bolus, and Blair Fox Cellars. Wineries also cluster in Lompoc, about a 50-minute drive from Goleta in wine country’s far western edge in the Santa Rita Hills.

Those in downtown Santa Barbara, just a 12-minute drive from The Leta Hotel, are a quick and popular option to try new regional wines, such as Melville, Santa Barbara Winery, Riverbench, and The Valley Project. 

Select vintners will offer tastings on Friday evenings at The Leta Hotel from May through the summer. Past wineries have included Grassini, Fess Parker, SAMsARA, Carr, and Santa Barbara Winery. In addition, The Leta Restaurant serves several Santa Barbara County wines, including J. Wilkes Pinot Blanc, Jackson Estate Chardonnay, Point & Line Sauvignon Blanc, Carr Pinot Gris, Nielson by Byron Pinot Noir, Zaca Mesa ‘Z’ cuvée, Margerum M5 Rhône blend, and Refugio Ranch Barbareño. The VIP amenity wine is a Pinot Noir that comes from the oldest winery in the region, Santa Barbara Winery.  

Wineries to Visit Here are a few top picks to inspire your adventures and give you a small taste of the amazing depth and breadth of Santa Barbara County wine country. Be sure to check hours and whether reservations are required or recommended. 

Alma Rosa In 2005 pioneering winemaker Richard Sanford and his wife Thekla severed ties with their namesake winery and launched a new venture at their El Jabali vineyard estate in the Sta. Rita Hills appellation: eco-friendly Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyard. The Sanfords no longer own the winery and vineyard, but still play important roles as consultants and hosts. Winemaker Samra Morris, who hails from Bosnia, crafts small lots of single-vineyard Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Rhône varietals, and sparkling wines. Sample them in a stunning new tasting room with indoor/outdoor seating in downtown Solvang, a 40-minute drive from Goleta. Try to book a private tasting at the historic ranch house on the 628-acre estate, where the Sanfords planted the region’s first certified organic grapes in 1983. You can also sign up for vineyard hike-and-taste experiences.  

Babcock Bryan Babcock has made wines since the early 1980s and helped establish the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. He’s also widely considered one of the best winemakers in the county and has won numerous awards for estate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and other wines. The family-run enterprise sits on Highway 246 near Lompoc on the western edge of wine country. This is a don’t-miss experience, not only because you’ll taste top-notch wines, but also amble around the hip and quirky tasting complex, which includes a huge, repurposed warehouse filled with an eclectic array of vintage furnishings, clothing, décor, and collectibles. Babcock continues to pioneer new techniques, most recently in regenerative farming. 

Folded Hills Descendants of the famous Anheuser-Busch empire founders run this small winery, ranch, and farmstead in a magical country setting right off Highway 101, 30 minutes from The Leta Hotel. Wine grapes grow alongside 18 acres of organic row crops, fruit orchards, and a collection of animals that range from Budweiser Clydesdales, sheep, and goats to a camel and a zebra. The winery specializes in Rhône varietals and pours tastes in a contemporary space amid oaks and redwoods at the ranch, and in an upscale tasting room in Montecito, close to downtown Santa Barbara. 

Gainey Vineyard The fourth generation of the Gainey family currently runs the vast Gainey Ranch, which encompasses nearly 2,000 acres of farmland and vineyard estates. The Home Ranch in Santa Ynez Valley produces Bordeaux varietals, while a property in the cooler Santa Rita Hills vineyard focuses on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. Try the various vintages at the Spanish-style hacienda or outdoors on the expansive lawn or arbor-shaded veranda — a fantastic spot for a picnic.  

Buttonwood Winery & Vineyard Sip wine and picnic amid orchards, gardens, and groves of native buttonwood trees (aka sycamores) at this 106-acre working farm-turned-winery on Alamo Pintado Road, a five-mile country road that connects Solvang and Los Olivos. Buttonwood grows sustainably farmed Bordeaux and Rhône-style grapes in its 39-acre vineyard, and longtime winemaker Karen Steinwachs has transformed them into quality wines since 2007. Buttonwood’s flagship wines are Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernets.  

Zaca Mesa The Foxen Canyon Wine Trail, which begins in Los Olivos, wends its way for 20 miles through some of California’s most scenic countryside. Chance Corbin, The Leta Hotel’s food and beverage general manager, says “Foxen Canyon is really the main trail in wine country. I always recommend it as it’s really popular with guests.” Zaca Mesa — a star along the trail — is a 1,752-acre property on a wild and rugged site the native Chumash called zaca, or “restful place.” The family-owned and -operated winery, established in 1973, specializes in handcrafted, single-vineyard Rhône-style estate-grown wines. In 1978 Zaca Mesa planted the first Syrah in Santa Barbara County; this vineyard block still produces low-yield grapes with intense flavor for the winery’s coveted Black Bear Syrah.

Singular bottle of 27-litre 2003 Sine Qua Non The Inaugural Syrah to Command Auction

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Los Angeles – The Legacy Cellar Foundation will unveil its first fundraiser in grand fashion with a wine of legends: the singular 27-liter bottle of 2003 Sine Qua Non The Inaugural Syrah. The 100-point wine, a generous donation from The Wine Advocate founder, Robert M. Parker, Jr., will be served at “A Goliath 60th Celebration” benefiting St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital® and its mission of “Finding cures. Saving children.®” on Saturday, May 14. The wine will be served alongside dinner prepared by James Beard award winning chef, Nancy Silverton and Steve Samson, chef and owner of Superfine and Rossoblu.

Legacy Cellar Foundation Director Garth Hodgdon.

The intimate, unprecedented affair will be held at a private residence in Bel Air, California. The opportunity to savor the one-of-a-kind wine and dinner is limited to 60 St. Jude supporters to commemorate the 60th anniversary of St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, founded in 1962. The evening will honor the legacy of St. Jude founder Danny Thomas and his family, which has carried on his dream. Thomas’ vision for the organization was as rare today as it was then: a research hospital where children with catastrophic diseases receive care and treatment regardless of their ability to pay.

“Through the generosity of Robert M. Parker, Jr. we are thrilled to support his desire to raise much- valued resources for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital with this incredible wine, the only bottle of its kind,” said Garth Hodgdon, director of The Legacy Cellar Foundation. Attendance is in such high demand that much of the event is already committed and Hodgdon estimates that a minimum of $3 million will be raised through the once-in-a-lifetime dinner. Tickets may be purchased by contacting St. Jude here.

Because of generous donors and events like this, families never receive a bill from St. Jude for treatment, travel, housing or food, so they can focus on helping their child live. Plus, treatments invented at St. Jude have helped push the overall childhood cancer survival rate from 20% to more than 80% since it opened in 1962. St. Jude won’t stop until no child dies from cancer.

“We are so very grateful that the Legacy Cellar Foundation will help celebrate 60 years of St. Jude advancing lifesaving research and treatment,” said Richard C. Shadyac Jr., president and CEO of ALSAC, the fundraising organization for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. “The funds raised from this gala will make a difference now and in the future of childhood cancer patients by helping St. Jude with its six- year, $11.5 billion strategic plan which includes tripling its global investment and impacting more of the 400,000 kids around the world with cancer each year.”

The inaugural fundraiser for The Legacy Cellar Foundation champions its mission “to convert wine collections into charitable donations – bringing a previously untapped source of funding to the philanthropic sector, enabling greater positive impact and ensuring curated wine collections will be enjoyed by future enthusiasts.” Parker, who plans to pull from his impressive wine collection to raise money for causes important to him and his family, personally selected St. Jude for this initial donation.

More than 20 years ago, Parker, who is widely regarded as the most influential wine critic in the world, recognized the exceptional quality of the harvest and tasked Sine Qua Non’s winemaker, Manfred Krankl, with a commemorative, Goliath bottle. He sought to one day open the bottle for a special occasion, and now, in recognition of the bottle’s tremendous worth, is donating the wine to raise money for St. Jude.

“I’m thrilled to be a part of the inaugural fundraiser for The Legacy Cellar Foundation, which provides an innovative new model that makes it possible for me to give 100% of the proceeds from the donation of this wine to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital,” said Parker. “This incredibly special one-of-a-kind bottle from my personal cellar will be converted into a multimillion-dollar gift to honor St. Jude’s Goliath 60th anniversary and advance cures, and means of prevention, for pediatric catastrophic diseases through research and treatment.”

The 2003 Syrah is the first made entirely from Sine Qua Non’s Eleven Confessions’ vineyard in the cool Santa Rita Hills appellation. Made from 97% Syrah and 3% Viognier, the wine was bottled in 2007 after 38.5 months of aging in French oak. The 2003 vintage precipitated what has become a storied and magical career for Krankl. Parker’s 100-point review of the wine by The Wine Advocate described it as:

“The mind-boggling 2003 The Inaugural Syrah is an emotional experience to taste as well as drink. Aged 38 1/2 months in French oak, it was fashioned entirely from the Eleven Confessions Vineyard, which is planted with Syrah clones #470, 174, and the Estrella River and Alban field selections. This stunning Syrah boasts a magnificent bouquet of spring flowers, blueberries, blackberries, charcoal, licorice, and roasted meats. It hits the palate with remarkable intensity, purity, and full-bodied power, but it somehow manages to dance across the taste buds with the gracefulness of a ballerina.”

Enlisted to prepare a main course to match such an exceptional wine is none other than Silverton, who famously founded La Brea Bakery and later Campanile with her former husband, the late Mark Peel, and Krankl, who led the wine program for the James Beard Award-winning restaurant. After the sale of La Brea Bakery in 2003, Krankl dedicated his full efforts to Sine Qua Non and it was that same year that the 27-litre bottle of Sine Qua Non The Inaugural Syrah was bottled.

Silverton attended Le Cordon Bleu in London and launched her culinary career in the early 1980s as pastry chef of Wolfgang Puck’s original Spago, during which time she penned her first cookbook, “Desserts.” After selling La Brea Bakery, which had become the largest artisanal bakery in the United States, she opened Osteria Mozza, Nancy’s Fancy and Pizzette. Silverton was most recently named Culinary Ambassador of The Farmhouse at Ojai Valley Inn.

More information about The Legacy Cellar Foundation can be found at www.legacycellar.org; and more information about St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital can be found at www.stjude.org.

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About The Legacy Cellar Foundation:

The Legacy Cellar Foundation is a 501c3 donor-advised fund that will collect, authenticate and liquidate wine collections for charitable purposes. The organization’s mission is to convert wine collections into charitable donations – bringing a previously untapped source of funding to the philanthropic sector, enabling greater positive impact and ensuring curated wine collections will be enjoyed by future enthusiasts. More information about The Legacy Cellar Foundation and upcoming events can be found on the website at www.legacycellar.org, as well as on Facebook and Instagram.

About St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital®

St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital is leading the way the world understands, treats and defeats childhood cancer and other life-threatening diseases. Its purpose is clear: Finding cures. Saving children.® It is the only National Cancer Institute-designated Comprehensive Cancer Center devoted solely to children. Treatments invented at St. Jude have helped push the overall childhood cancer survival rate from 20% to more than 80% since the hospital opened more than 50 years ago. St. Jude won’t stop until no child dies from cancer. St. Jude shares the breakthroughs it makes, and every child saved at St. Jude means doctors and scientists worldwide can use that knowledge to save thousands more children. Because of generous donors, families never receive a bill from St. Jude for treatment, travel, housing or food so they can focus on helping their child live. Visit St. Jude Inspire to discover powerful St. Jude stories of hope, strength, love and kindness. Join the St. Jude mission by visiting stjude.org, liking St. Jude on Facebook, following St. Jude on Twitter, Instagram and TikTok, and subscribing to its YouTube channel.

Get to know Priorat DOQ and Its Unique Landscape through “Taste the Difference: Quality Wines from the Heart of Europe” project

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NEW YORK (PRWEB) – Priorat is a small region in the southwest of Catalonia with a long winemaking tradition which today produces some of the world’s most sought-after wines.

The name Priorat has been linked to wine from the 12th century when the Carthusian monks brought from Provence the knowledge and techniques to develop a winegrowing culture. The Cartoixa (Carthusian Monastery) of Scala Dei, founded in 1194, represents the birthplace of winemaking in the DOQ Priorat region.

Unfortunately, the drama of phylloxera, which brought devastation in all Europe at the end of the 19th Century, didn’t spare the Priorat region, which lost almost all its vineyards. It was thanks to the old generation of farmers, their dignity and love of the land that Priorat was able to re-emerge in the 1950s with the replanting of vineyards and the preservation of the agricultural tradition and culture. At the end of the ‘80s a new entrepreneurial spirit which combined quality and innovation with the original wisdom laid the foundation of Priorat’s renaissance, which led to today’s development of Priorat wines to top class. The DOQ Priorat was formally created in 1954 and elevated to DOQ, Spain’s highest wine classification, in 2006, the second of the only two regions to hold this privilege, after Rioja.

The reason of such accomplishment lies in the uniqueness of the Priorat landscape. The DOQ Priorat forms a compact and well-defined landscape unit, formed by the great mountainous amphitheater that stretches out at the foot of the Sierra de Montsant, by the slate-bed of its hillsides. The vineyards are planted on the slopes at altitudes of between 100 m and 700 m. with such a tortuous geography that many of them are worked as “costers” (Catalan word meaning steep slope) with the resulting necessity to build terraces. What gives the typical minerality and longevity associated with the region’s wines is the special Priorat soil of volcanic origin, a combination of reddish and black slate with particles of mica, called “licorella” in Spanish, Quality is also linked to low yields, and Priorat is among Spain’s lowest yield-wines, often much lower than the authorized maximum yield of 6,000 kg/ha.

Priorat is most known for its powerful reds, mainly single varietal wines of Grenache or Carignan, or blended with international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah in a Bordeaux style. Among whites, the most common grapes are Garnacha blanca, Macabeo, Pedro Ximénez and Chenin.

Today, DOQ Priorat counts 107 wineries with 2.095 ha of vineyards, 155 of which were planted before 1945. The breathtaking views that characterize the Priorat landscape attract each year numerous visitors and wine lovers.

Priorat DOQ is one of the many PDOs featured in “Taste the Difference: Quality WInes from the Heart of Europe” campaign, which aims at promoting European Quality Schemes (PDO/PGI) and high-quality European wines, with a numerous series of activities in the program this year all over the US.

About TASTE THE DIFFERENCE PROGRAM:
The program: European quality wines: taste the difference is a project financed by the European Union and managed by Unione Italiana Vini and PRODECA for the promotion of PDO and PGI European wines abroad in China and US. In order to achieve this objective, the TTD.EU program will organize wine seminars, workshops and b2b meetings both in these countries and in Spain and Italy, inviting wine professionals to join study trips to Europe. The program, realized in the span of three years (2021-2023) aims at creating awareness about European quality wines, in particular Italian and Spanish, which share a long tradition and a high standard of quality.

The beneficiaries: Unione Italiana Vini is the oldest and most commissioned Association of the Italian wine market. It represents cooperative, private and agricultural wine-companies, bottlers, consortia, associations and wine-making machines or wine cellars / laboratory manufacturers, located throughout the Italian territory. Promotora d’Exportacions Catalanes (PRODECA) is a public company established in 1986 and part of the “Ministry of Climate Action, Food and Rural Agenda of the Government of Catalonia”. It supports the agri-food sector and its companies with the knowledge, tools and experience to increase their products in Catalunya and worldwide.

Eve’s How To: The Wine Night

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We have a “wine night” with friends pretty frequently and it recently dawned on me that I’ve never written about how that works.

For some, or even most of you, you have some experience with this: you invite pals over, everyone brings a bottle or two to share over dinner, and you talk about the wines – why you chose them and how they fared during the evening. This blog post is to remind those with experience how to make it enjoyable for the newbie guest, and the how-to for a newbie host.

This one wine night I will use as an example is described a bit in this social media post: How was your last Wine Night with friends? We recently shared a 2019 Napa Hindsight Chardonnay that was new to me and Chablis-like due to its fresh fruit and no noticeable oak, then came the Grenache we mistook for Syrah or Mourvedre in a 2007 Domaine Du Pegau Chateauneuf Du Pape, a masterfully balanced 2000 Marcarini Brunate Barolo with dinner that benefitted from 6 hours of decanting, and two I was too tired to taste: 2010 Orma Super Tuscan and Camus VSOP Cognac. If I had to pick a favorite of the night it would be hard as the ones I had were all so good for many different reasons.

Now the details to help our wine 101ers:

Let your guests know what your menu is so they can bring a wine (or two) that they believe will be appropriate for pairing.

Always have a white to start. I’m amazed at how many people prefer sparkling, white or pink wines in general; so having at least one leaves no one out.

Decant any wine, in this case it was the Barolo, if you know requires it due to its youth or older age. Decanting allows more air to envelop a wine that needs to “open up” a bit before drinking. If you’re not sure, taste the wine before you serve it to guests. If it’s tight or tart decant it. You can also search the Internet for the same wine (same vintage year too) and see what others recommend.

Serve appetizers as well as a main course during your evening. Drinking wine without food causes early inebriation so having some starters helps. And as this may be when you are drinking your white wine, serve with cheeses, nuts, and crackers – nothing too big – unless you will be moving onto reds. If you do that before dinner then add in the charcuterie. Some wine people like charcuterie with whites too, it’s not my preference, but as in my recommendation for decanting – taste your food with your wine to educate your palate and form your own opinion.

When you do move onto reds you can do it a couple of different ways. Serve the lower alcohol wines first and move up the bigger ones last. You can decide what is served first depending on the menu. Big wine with big food. In this case we had the Barolo with a lasagna dinner, the Rhone that was more Grenache-based just before, and the Napa Chardonnay first. The Super Tuscan came at the end of the meal and the Cognac came last.

One other note on the order of the wines. If you have an amazing wine to share consider serving it early on in the evening. I had “palate fatigue” and couldn’t taste the final Super Tuscan or enjoy the Cognac, and I may have missed out.

Lastly, encourage your guests to taste each wine before committing to a full glass. That way if it isn’t their “cup of tea” they can move onto something else that is. I like to have at least two bottles open at a time to give guests that option.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Vinos Zanzonico 2020 Reserva Chardonnay and 2019 Reserva Syrah!

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If you’ve been following my reviews for any length of time you know that I started sharing my wine notes well over ten years ago, about the same time I first met winemaker Gerard Zanzonico at Napa’s Del Dotto. We’ve shared many wonderful wines of Gerard’s over the years, and when he finally retired to Baja California, and began making wines there, I knew I would (virtually for now) follow him there.

To see any past reviews just do a Google search of Zanzonico + Bushman and there will be plenty. Proud of my longstanding relationship with one of the finest winemakers I’ve had the pleasure to know, I’m happy to share my the latest: reviews of Gerard’s new 2020 Reserva Chardonnay and 2019 Reserva Syrah from Baja.

Regards to my notes: whenever possible I don’t look at tasting notes that are provided by a winemaker or winery staff. Then, for fun, I look at them afterward to see if they are similar. I did that here, and any similarities in my notes are in bold.

2020 Reserva Chardonnay

13.7% alcohol

EB: Dark gold in color with a sparkly edge, quite welcoming. On the nose I detected fleshy yellow peach, honeydew and cantaloupe melon, delicate white flower and pebbles washed with the sea. Erupting flavors tingled my palate: dried apple, melon again, lemon zest, creamy salty cheese, butter…and the wine continued to tingle my tongue for a long lasting finish. And the wine made me crave a cheese plate. 92 Eve points.

From Winemaker Gerard Zanzonico

2020 Chardonnay -100% varietal, grown in the San Vicente Valley, 85 cases produced. 12 months in French Oak, 25% new. Brilliant color, pineapple aromas with hints of tropical fruits. Balanced finish.

2019 Reserva Syrah

13.9% alcohol

EB: Plum jam, stewed dark fruit, dark chocolate, grilled mushroom, black peppercorn, smoldering rich tobacco, espresso and freshly turned earth on the nose followed by flavors of dried blue to black fruit, a lively and spicy palate, chocolate-covered espresso beans, a full mouthfeel and gripping tannins giving way to a big crescendo of a finish. 95+ Eve Points.

From Winemaker Gerard Zanzonico

2019 Syrah – 100% varietal, grown in the La Grulla Valley,141 cases produced. Mature fruit, plum and chocolate aromas…a hint of mushroom. Smooth tannins with a balanced finish.

These wines are available at LMA Wines and Vintage wines of San Diego

https://www.lmawines.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Tasting Sustainable Wines From Herdade do Esporão

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It’s been a while since I’ve had the opportunity to taste and study wines from Portugal so I was very interested in sampling four that I‘d never had before – two whites and two reds from Herdade do Esporão – and learning all about them. Here is an excerpt from the invitation:

Esporão Group Chairman João Roquette, one of the most influential people in the Portuguese wine industry today, will brief us on Esporao Group, his vision for the future and his take on the Portuguese wine industry. Herdade do Esporão lead winemaker, Sandra Alves, will talk about the estate and taste through the wines.

What I Learned

Both Roquette and Alves shared the efforts that the winery has made in creating holistic, sustainable and organic vineyards via composting, natural pest control, no chemicals in the farming, beneficial insects, animal grazing and soil maintenance. They spent twelve years educating themselves and visiting other wineries as they worked on their own sustainable program, and are now 100% organic.

Alves has 20 years of experience with Esporão. And Roquette’s family has owned the winery for two generations. Their workers are all part of the team, sharing in the work and benefits.

Their products, including olive oil and a craft brewery, express their agricultural place. Eighty percent of their products were originally sold in Portugal, now that percentage has gone down to thirty-five with the balance being sold internationally.

They do purchase some grapes beyond their estate for entry-level wine.And they produce 16 billion bottles per year, though their country is not large like Spain or France, more the size of Holland.

The Wines (Abbreviated technical sheet information, and finding some of the same tasting notes, are all in italics)

Esporão Colheita White 2020 / SRP $18

Concept: Wine produced solely from grapes grown at Herdade do Esporão, applying organic farming methods. Expresses the typical features of this vintage, diversity of the soil where the vines are planted, as well as the character and identity of the selected varieties.

Grape Varieties: Antão Vaz, Viosinho, Alvarinho and others. 13.5% alcohol

EB Notes: Golden Delicious yellow apple, white flower, lemon zest and green tea on the nose with flavors that were fresh and zesty, lemon, grapefruit and minerals with a long finish.

Esporão Reserva White 2020 / SRP $20

Concept: A classic wine obtained exclusively from our organic grapes. The diversity of Herdade do Esporão, together with the different characteristics of the grape varieties, the soils, the maturity of the vines and the character of those who make this wine consistently over the years, results in a rich, intense but always harmonious wine.

Grape Varieties: Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro and others. 13.5% alcohol.

Awards from Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. 

EB Notes: Aromas of bruised fruit, incense and a surprise of mint followed by a mouth that reminded me of an older wine though it was young, balanced fruit, flint, smoke, muted but interesting.

Esporão Colheita Red 2018 / SRP $18

Concept: Wine with sense of place, intense, direct, and vibrant. Expresses the typical features of the vintage year, diversity of the soil where the vines are planted, as well as the character and identity of the selected varieties.

Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Touriga Franca, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet. 14% alcohol.

Awards from Wine Spectator.

EB Notes: Hello LEATHER on the nose, like a well-worn saddle! That blew off somewhat but still lingered with the addition of sweat, tree bark and dark fruit. On the palate I noted dry fruit, that same smoke, oak, Espresso and tannins.

Esporão Reserva Red 2018 / SRP $25

Concept: The first wine made by Esporão in 1985. Obtained from grapes grown at Herdade do Esporão, it shows the consistency and rich character typical of the best Alentejo wines.

Label illustrated by Anne Geene.

Grape Varieties: Aragonez, Trincadeira, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante Bouschet. 14.5% alcohol.

High scores from Robert Parker and Wine Enthusiast.

EB Notes: Earthy, dark fruit, velvety, fennel, green peppercorn, spice rack – very aromatic aromas. The taste had the same spicy qualities as well as a sweetness that counterbalanced all of the dark berry flavors, very long finish.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Three Areas to Discover from “Taste the Difference”

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Alella, a small wine district in the north eastern part of Spain centers around the village of the same name just a few miles from the eastern edge of Barcelona. Alella, one of the oldest in the Iberian Peninsula, dates back to the period of the ancient Romans and occupies an area of about 230 hectares in the Maresme and Valles Oriental counties. Alella’s climate is broadly Mediterranean with noticeable variations between vineyard sites due to the orography of the terrain. The economy in the region has been traditionally based on agriculture and shipping, of particular note, viticulture and floriculture account for more than half the production within these sectors.

Winemaking emerged in the Allela area with the Romans in the 1st century AD and was sufficiently acknowledged by AD 77. However, the Romans brought more than just wine to the area, establishing roads to connect their various provinces. During the middle ages the wines of Allela’s region were favored at the Barcelona Cathedral and later became one of the highest quality wines exported to overseas colonies.

The majority of wines emerging from this region are crisp, dry, floral scented whites made from the local grape varieties including Xarel-lo, referred to as Pansa Blanca locally, Garnacha Blanca, Viura, and French varieties such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Red and rose wines throughout the region are primarily produced with Garnacha Negra as well as Monastrell, Syrah, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo. Vines in this region are planted at altitudes anywhere from 195ft (60m) to 800ft (250m) above sea level with older vines growing freely while newer vineyards have been planted on trellises. Alella wines, more than any other, are ingrained in the tradition of the Barcelona table, mainly the reborn and restless Barcelona, that have laid the foundation of today’s great region.

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The campaign “Taste the Difference: Quality Wines from the Heart of Europe” makes you discover Custoza, an Italian Controlled Designation of Origin. This program, managed by the Unione Italiana Vini, the Association of the Italian wine market, and Prodeca, the organism that supports the agri-food sector from the region of Catalunya abroad, aims to promote European PDO and PGI wines in China and US.

This premier appellation from the Italian Veneto region offers quality wines produced from world-renowned native grape varieties such as Garganega, Trebbianello, and Malvasia.

As wine consumption in the US trends toward high acid, lower alcohol wines that offer refreshment and the versatility to accompany various cuisines, Custoza DOC is uniquely positioned for success in the US market. The wines of Custoza DOC are ideal for wine consumers who love time-tested classics, and for those who seek to discover wines of unique character.

The winemakers of Custoza DOC are dedicated to producing wines of remarkable quality for tables around the world. Veneto is a region with a centuries-long history of winemaking – a tradition that’s deeply ingrained within its culture and society. Custoza DOC is a shining example of wines from the Veneto, and an emblem of outstanding Italian viticulture. The Consortium of Custoza DOC is a member of Unione Italiana Vini (UIV), the oldest commercial association representing the Italian wine market.

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Cava: The 2021 vintage will be remembered as the first in which wineries can mention on the labels where it is that the grapes are grown, since new zones and sub-zones approved by the Designation of Origin Regulatory Council came into force. These new regulations mark out three defined production areas: Comtats de Barcelona, Valle del Ebro and Viñedos de Almendralejo, along with seven sub-zones: Valls d’Anoia-Foix, Conca del Gaià, Serra de Mar, Serra de Prades, Pla de Ponent, Alto Ebro and Valle del Cierzo. To guarantee traceability, a new software platform has been set up for this campaign, as part of the digital transformation currently taking place within this Protected Designation of Origin.

The terroir-driven attempt aims to shape the perception of Cava as a wine with a multitude of territorial interpretations: a complex sparkling wine that deserves a year-long attention. This happens in a moment when the US market has become more receptive to the category of sparklings as wines suitable for everyday consumption, and not only reserved for special occasions or holidays celebrations.

A series of events run in the US these past months, including Taste The Difference Grand Tasting taking place on December 9th in New York City, have helped convey this message to trade, press and consumers. Additional tastings have focused on the new regulation to convey both grape sourcing information and minimum ageing time. The new rules establish a distinction between Cava de Guarda, which indicates wines aged for minimum 9 months on the lees, and Cava de Guarda Superior, applicable only to wines aged on the lees for at least 18 months and including under its umbrella the Reserva, Gran Reserva and Cava de Paraje Calificado. The ageing time for the Cava Reserva has also been extended from 15 to 18 months whereas the 30 months ageing requirements for Gran Reserva (30 month)and the 36 months Cava de Paraje Calificado remain unchanged.

The program: European quality wines: taste the difference is a project financed by the European Union and managed by Unione Italiana Vini and PRODECA for the promotion of PDO and PGI European wines abroad in China and US. In order to achieve this objective, the TTD.EU program will organize wine seminars, workshops and b2b meetings both in these countries and in Spain and Italy, inviting wine professionals to join study trips to Europe. The program, realized in the span of three years (2021-2023) aims at creating awareness about European quality wines, in particular Italian and Spanish, which share a long tradition and a high standard of quality.

The beneficiaries: Unione Italiana Vini is the oldest and most commissioned Association of the Italian wine market. It represents cooperative, private and agricultural wine-companies, bottlers, consortia, associations and wine-making machines or wine cellars / laboratory manufacturers, located throughout the Italian territory. Promotora de Exportaciones Catalanas (PRODECA) is a public company established in 1986 and part of the “Ministry of Climate Action, Food and Rural Agenda of the Government of Catalonia”. It supports the agri-food sector and its companies with the knowledge, tools and experience to increase their products in Catalunya and worldwide.

About TASTE THE DIFFERENCE PROGRAM
The program: European quality wines: taste the difference is a project financed by the European Union and managed by Unione Italiana Vini and PRODECA for the promotion of PDO and PGI European wines abroad in China and US. In order to achieve this objective, the TTD.EU program will organize wine seminars, workshops and b2b meetings both in these countries and in Spain and Italy, inviting wine professionals to join study trips to Europe. The program, realized in the span of three years (2021-2023) aims at creating awareness about European quality wines, in particular Italian and Spanish, which share a long tradition and a high standard of quality.

The beneficiaries: Unione Italiana Vini is the oldest and most commissioned Association of the Italian wine market. It represents cooperative, private and agricultural wine-companies, bottlers, consortia, associations and wine-making machines or wine cellars / laboratory manufacturers, located throughout the Italian territory. Promotora de Exportaciones Catalanas (PRODECA) is a public company established in 1986 and part of the “Ministry of Climate Action, Food and Rural Agenda of the Government of Catalonia”. It supports the agri-food sector and its companies with the knowledge, tools and experience to increase their products in Catalunya and worldwide.

 

Perlises Pick: LAW ESTATE WINES

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The curving drive through the woods on Peachy Canyon Drive only heightens the anticipation of arriving at the gates that provide entry to Law Estate Wines and the experience it and the winery staff provide.

But it wasn’t always this way.

Our first taste of Law Estate was when they were pouring their first vintage at the Ojai Wine Festival in 2013. At that time, Michael wrote: “…speaking of Law Estate (www.lawestatewines.com), their wines really stole the show for me at this event, especially their GSM blend. A new player in Paso Robles, they haven’t even released their wines to the public yet. This is one you might want to get on board with early.”

To give credit where credit is due, it was Karen who had told Michael to be sure to taste the Law wines, especially that GSM blend named Sagacious.

Our next visit to Law was while the winery was still under construction. Sitting with General Manager Oliver Esparham, who we had met at the Ojai festival, we continued to be awed at the quality of the wines produced by such a young winery. Of course, Law’s geologist owners did their homework with site selection for their vineyards [all Law’s wines are Estate designated], a state of the art winery, as well as one of the best winemakers around – Scott Hawley of Torrin.

But those are old stories and visiting Law now is about tasting outstanding wines in a beautiful luxurious setting, whether on the outdoor patio with the gorgeous views or the spacious indoor tasting lounge. Though, all would be for naught were the hosts of your tasting not the best you might encounter anywhere, which they are at Law. Their hospitality is what elevates the tasting into the perfect experience that it is.

During our tasting, we had the great pleasure of meeting with Marketing Manager Jessica Locklin and were also joined by GM Oliver. Scott Hawley has moved on to focus 100% on his own label and former Assistant Winemaker Phillipp Pfunder now has full control of the winemaking process. The wines, if anything, are more delicious than ever.

We started with the 2019 Soph, a white blend of 47% Roussanne, 28% Clairette Blanche and 25% Marsanne with a really bright floral nose. Named after the Laws’ granddaughter [Oliver’s daughter], this is always one of our favorite white wines of the year. We were delighted that there was still some available to purchase as we had just run out at home.

Moving on to the red blends of mostly Rhone varietals, these are as usual stunning and virtually impossible to pick a favorite. Karen has always been especially partial to the one called Sagacious, as mentioned above [Oliver somehow still remembers this].

We tasted through the following reds:

2018 Beguiling – 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah

2018 Sagacious – 35% Grenache, 34% Syrah, 31% Mourvedre

2018 Audacious – 31% Grenache, 26% Carignan, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Syrah

2018 Aspire – 84% Syrah, 16% Grenache

One of the several great things about the Law tasting experience is that the taster is presented with the entire flight at once, with ample opportunity to go back and forth between wines to compare the various flavors. And Jessica, like everyone else at Law, was ever-present to graciously answer questions and provide additional information.

As we were tasting back and forth through the flight, Jessica asked if we had any preferences. Michael’s “I dunno, they’re all so good” was followed by Karen’s “You haven’t tried the Aspire yet.

” Even though Karen loved the nice long finish and big mouthfeel of her usual favorite Sagacious and the dark ripe blackberry notes of the Audacious, she was spot on with the Aspire’s fruit forwardness and violet bouquet. Upon tasting it, Michael immediately agreed with an insightful “damn”.

Much as it is difficult to pick a favorite amongst Law’s wine selection, it is also hard to pick a favorite winery in Paso Robles. There are too many wineries in the area that we love for us to be able to say that there is a #1. But, you would be hard-pressed to find a better winery experience, wines, and people than Law Estate Wines. And now the addition of a guest cottage makes an extended stay possible. Plans are also in the works for an education center.

With all that, you may never want to leave the property on your next visit.

LAW ESTATE WINES

www.lawestatewines.com

3885 Peachy Canyon Road, Paso Robles, CA 93446

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick: J DUSI WINERY

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A visit to Paso Robles is never complete for us without a visit to J Dusi Winery. Admittedly, it’s personal.

We first met Janell Dusi in the mid-2000s at a roadshow tasting for Paso Robles wineries held at a hotel in Santa Monica. At that time, she was pouring her first commercial vintage of Zinfandel made from the family’s historic Dante Dusi Vineyard off the west side of Highway 101. Planted by Janell’s great-grandparents in 1945, the amazing fruit had been traditionally sold to other wineries who were proud to designate the vineyard on their label. But Janell took the family business to the next level by making and bottling the wine under her J Dusi brand.

Since then, we’ve visited Janell many times, initially at the family home on the vineyard property and more recently at the winery/tasting room on Highway 46 West. Whether they know it or not, Janell and her family have become our Paso family.

Janell has also grown the wine selections beyond the flagship Zinfandel and even added another brand to the mix – Paper Street.

The first thing we noticed on this trip was how much the outside tasting area had expanded, with lots of comfortable seating and umbrellas, much of it colored the signature Dusi blue.

Then, Janell greeted us and, although we forewent our usual hugs, it was with immense joy that we sat down with her to talk about the last several months and sample several of the new releases.

We started with the 2020 Pinot Grigio. We found this to be super bright and fresh. Its low alcohol makes this a true summer wine, although we drink a lot of this all year long. It is not just popular with us, as Janell’s customers love it and buy it by the case. One of them even referred to it as “Dusi Water”, a term a stickler might find offensive, but not Janell. Hey, whatever keeps the customer happy, right? [Just a thought from us – much like in our neck of the woods, Agua Dulce means Sweet Water in Spanish, maybe she should rename it – not Acqua Dolce – but Acqua Dusi. What do you think, Janell?]

Second to be tasted but always first in our hearts was the Dante Dusi Zinfandel. This was the 2019 vintage and we noted that it was fruity and spicy [specifically with pumpkin bread spices] with a nice long finish. Classic Dusi Zin.

The next two wines were from the 2017 vintage. The Escandalosa is a blend of – not Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre – but Zinfandel, Syrah and Mourvedre. We’re not sure if the “scandal” is the unusual blend or what happened at the naming party that came up with it, but it had a beautiful cherry color and great spices from the Zinfandel. The other 2017 was the Caterina’s Vineyard Syrah, which was full bodied, well rounded, with notes of white pepper and a looong finish. Sadly, the 2018 version of this is the “last Syrah” from this great vineyard, although other varietals will be forthcoming.

We also tasted one of the wines from the Paper Street label – the 2017 Narrator. This is a classic GSM [40% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre] and was just perfectly balanced. The Paper Street vineyard was planted by Janell’s brother Matt and their father Mike on the West side of Paso Robles. Planted not only to Zinfandel, but also to Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah and Clairette Blanche [among others], Janell is doing great things with this vineyard, as are other wineries in the area. The name Paper Street has a double meaning, referring both to the vineyard not having a true address and as an homage to Matt’s favorite movie, Fight Club. Ditto with the name Narrator, referring both to Mike Dusi and to the Narrator in the movie.

Janell also told us of an exciting new development involving J Dusi Wines. You may have heard of the emerging market for canned wines. My initial observations have been these tend to be lower-end wines designed for maximum quaffing. Maker Wine Company (www.makerwine.com) is taking a different approach – focusing on quality wines from smaller producers in a convenient canned package. Janell’s contribution to the brand is a blend of the Zinfandels from the Dante Dusi and Paper Street vineyards. This should really “up” the perception of what canned wine is all about.

It was wonderful to visit with Janell, but she had a winery to run. We said our goodbyes after quick tastes of the yummy 2016 Zinfandel Port and the 2018 Haute Blanc Viognier Port and headed out, knowing we would be back to J Dusi on our next trip to Paso Robles wine country.

J Dusi

www.jdusiwines.com

1401 CA 46 West

Paso Robles, CA 93446

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.