Tasting 2018 Provence Rose Estates with Winemaker Alexis Cornu

March 15, 2019 by evebushman

It was a lovely day to taste Rose…that was and still is my opening as it sounds so good. But on the day of this particular tasting the skies had opened up as they have recently in LA and tried to ruin my day with about two inches of rain. The event, set for the Peninsula Hotel’s Roof Garden Terrace was moved to a private suite. Turned out to be much more intimate.

L to R: fellow writers Cori Solomon, Andy Harris and winemaker Alexis Cornu

We were to taste the latest 2018 vintages from two of the most popular Provence rosé estates in France, my tasting notes are in italics following notes from the winery:

Inspiration Rosé is produced at the storied Château de Berne and authentically captures the Provençal spirit with its classic profile and referential square bottle shape. 70% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and 10% Syrah. I got notes of peach, hard candy and flowers on the nose and also sea minerality and low acid in the mouth.

Romance Rosé launches this year as the newest addition to the Berne portfolio with a more affordable price point for those looking to explore the category. Previously name Emotion, the new Romance has aromas of rose petal, jasmine flower and saline, with the addition of white peach and a low acidity on the palate.

Chateau de Berne Estates is much more than just a rose. This is a hand crafted wine created from grapes specially selected by our winemaker from a unique vineyard block in the heart of the Berne estate, which is home to some of its oldest vines. Predominantly Grenache, the wine had a lovely balance with steeliness, peach, green kiwi and a gentle mouthfeel. A note on the square bottle shape: Cornu said that they had to redesign the bottling line to manage the unique shape.

UP Rosé, from the newly renovated Ultimate Provence estate, represents the bold, innovative nature of the region with its spicy blend and statement bottle. The UP stands for Ultimate Provence label, not Berne but 30 minutes away, and about 20 minutes from St. Tropez. Cornu explained that this area had more sandstone instead of limestone. I got that same floral notes as well as a more perfumy aroma with a bit of the sea. Cornu added that he enjoyed the wine with sushi and sashimi.

Chateau des Bertrands is located in the French commune of Cannet-des-Maures, at the heart of the Plaine des Maures nature reserve. Historically the crown jewel of Cotes de Provence, it offers exceptional wines thanks to an original geology and patient human effort. With more Cinsault than the previous mostly Grenache wines this one had what Cornu called “light, elegant and fine.” I noted a lovely pear in sweetened juice on the nose as well as minerality (wet pebbles) and saline.

Meeting with the winemaker for the estates, Alexis Cornu, proved to be an additional benefit. From Cornu I learned:

Breezy and surrounded by pines, Château de Berne is the number one destination winery in Provence, France.

Some of the names of the wines are different in France.

Cornu thinks about how the grapes may grow; whether it be under late ripening, sunny, warm or windy conditions, he finds that these conditions allow for “more finesse and freshness.”

Berne is one of four estates Cornu makes wine for. He feels that his wines in Provence are “always fresh with a nice texture on the palate.”

Berne thinks that like Champagne, in the next 20 years wine drinkers will notice a sense of place when drinking their “fresh and dry” Rose wines.

Harvest can occur at night, when workers will have had no sleep.

The old vines region produces a dry Rose not common to some wine drinkers. Especially those expecting sweetness in a pink wine.

The vineyards are working towards being 100% organic, they started the process in 2018. The wines already use less sulfites than before.

Four wines per estate recently obtained Gold Medals from a prestigious French competition: the Le Concours General Agricole.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

One Bottle Post: 2000 CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET

October 19, 2018 by evebushman

I am now on bottle three of the six 2000 Bordeaux that we’ve pulled from our cellar to drink. At this point I have a current favorite, and it’s this one, the 2000 Chateau Pontet-Canet from the Pauillac region of Bordeaux, France. Looks like we paid about $55 and it’s doubled in price at auction, like all of the others I researched.

Photo credit: Millesima USA

So why did I like this one, the least expensive of the bunch so far? See my notes, it may guide you to try and find it too!

2000 CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET

Tasting Notes

Color: Dark garnet with a brown edge (indicative of age), a cross between a ruby and tawny port.

Bouquet: Stewed prunes, worn suede, earth, cigar, black cherry, crushed dry leaves, blackberry, sage, grilled mushrooms.

Flavor: Blueberry, blackberry, black pepper, raisin, very lush mouthfeel – gave me the sense of a rich pulp – tannic, dry, long finish.

Pairing: We had this with a Porterhouse steak made Oscar style which means it was topped with crab, asparagus and Béarnaise, and on the side was a twice-baked potato and cole slaw. The pal that created the dinner admitted that it all was deli bought except for the steak. It helped to know this as…it didn’t matter what we paired this wine with, in my humble opinion it was a stand-alone wine. The kind of wine we like to have without a big to-do about what to pair it with. So for me, it was all about the wine once I had that first taste of it.

97 Eve pts.

Wine Spectator magazine notes

CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET

Pauillac 2000

Score: 92

Release Price $55

Current Auction Price $103

Country France

Region Bordeaux

Issue Web Only – 2016

Tasting Note

A lovely lead-in of singed cedar and vanilla notes gives way to slightly taut, racy red and black currant fruit flavors that drive nicely through an iron-edged finish. Rather sleek and tightly focused, relying more on minerality than power.–Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2023. 22,917 cases made.

–JM

The 10th Annual “STARS of Cabernet”

October 13, 2018 by evebushman

Beverly Hills – Were you aware that Cabernet Sauvignon, the most cultivated grape in the world, is the result of a marriage between the Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc grape varietals?

In celebration of Cabernet Sauvignon, “STARS of Cabernet” is the premier tasting event of the year! More than 30 of the best Cabernet producing wineries in California–and the world, will showcase their Cabernets and other wine varieties. Come and taste over 100 different wines hailing from Napa, Sonoma, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, France, Argentina and Chile.

List of wineries set to pour: Wines of South Africa, Trujillo Wines, Vineyard 29, Alpha Omega, Palazzo Wine, Frank Family Vineyards, Roy Estate, CAMi Vineyards, Bernardus Winery, Addendum, Allegretto Wines, Hawk and Horse Vineyards, axr, Hestan Vineyards, Jonata, Ladera Vineyards, Moraga Bel Air, Roca Family Vineyards, Hertelendy, The Debate, Clark-Claudon Vineyards, Michael Rolland, Duckhorn Vineyards. Merryvale Vineyards, JACK Winery, Almaviva Winery, S.R. Tonella Cellars, The Unfiltered Collection, VGS Chateau Potella & many more!

The evening will commence at 6pm with a VIP-access-only vintage tasting, followed by a PENINSULA catered dinner buffet- Acquaint yourself with the world of Cabernet while enjoying exquisite tray-passed appetizers! From 9-9:30pm, guests will enjoy a delicious dessert after-party.

A silent auction containing collectable and large format wines will benefit The TJ Martell Foundation–the music industry’s largest entity funding innovative medical research focused on finding cures for leukemia, cancer and AIDS, as well as sourcing/supporting early-stage research projects aimed at developing more effective clinical treatments for patients who otherwise cannot afford a panacea. Learn more at tjmartell.org.

Tickets now on sale!
For information and ticket purchasing, please visit Stars of Cabernet. STARS of Cabernet thanks its generous sponsors: Peninsula Hotel, Los Angeles Magazine, Evian, Robb Report, The Somm Journal and Tasting Panel Magazine.

About Peninsula Hotel:

The only AAA Five Diamond and Forbes Five Star-rated hotel in Southern California every year since 1993, The Peninsula Beverly Hills offers 194 guest rooms, including 38 suites and 16 private villas, nestled among lush tropical gardens in the heart of Beverly Hills. The Peninsula is located at the intersection of Wilshire and South Santa Monica Boulevards and within comfortable walking distance from the legendary Rodeo Drive.

About WineLA:

WineLA is about enhancing the wine culture of Los Angeles one event at a time. To do so, wine must be in rhythm with fashion, music, food and other beverages. It must take advantage of the geography, the architecture and the centers of interest. Los Angeles is a giant playground with an amazing array of venues, spaces, wine bars, restaurants, beaches, rooftops, gardens, and magical views. We are a part of the LA lifestyle, the wine lifestyle, and celebrate the people, the place and the passion.

Domaine Carneros Announces Debut of its Jardin d’Hiver

September 23, 2018 by evebushman

Domaine Carneros, a benchmark for California sparkling wine, reflecting both the terroir of the Carneros region and the craftsmanship of its French legacy, celebrates the completion and opening of its garden conservatory, Jardin d’Hiver, with an expanded hospitality space and five-course pairing experience.

The beautifully-designed Jardin d’Hiver – an Art Nouveau conservatory-style addition to the north terrace of the renowned Domaine Carneros château, will allow guests to immerse themselves in the beauty of Carneros and surrounding vineyards while being shielded from the winds that define the region’s cool prevailing climate, perfect for sparkling wine production.

In keeping with the 18^th century French design of the landmark château, which was modeled after the Taittinger family’s famed residence, the Château de la Marquetterie, the Jardin d’Hiver takes its inspiration from the glass buildings created by Gustave Eiffel in the mid-late 1800’s to protect plants and citrus trees on the Place de la Concorde in Paris. With its custom-crafted, gracefully-curved glass walls, skylights, white marble tables, indoor-outdoor fireplaces and majestic new fountain, the Jardin d’Hiver offers guests an inviting and warm, yet elegant space to enjoy the fine wines, gracious hospitality and sweeping views for which Domaine Carneros is known.

With the opening of the Jardin d’Hiver comes an expanded and unparalleled gustatory experience called “The Art of Sparkling Wine Pairing: Asian Bites with Bubbles,” an Asian-inspired, seasonally-driven five course food and wine pairing designed to showcase the versatility of sparkling wine. With vibrant, yet delicate flavors, Domaine Carneros sparkling wines are a perfect complement to Asian cuisine. The experience is offered once a day at 11:00 a.m. for $85 per person Monday-Friday. Reservations are required no later than 48 hours in advance and available for groups of no more than 8 guests. Wine club members enjoy a 20% discount. Pairings are subject to change based on the seasonal availability of ingredients.

OPENING PAIRING EXPERIENCE

Bay Scallops in Spicy Yuzu Sauce
Paired with Ultra Brut
Sautéed bay scallops with a yuzu citrus sauce, chiles and cilantro
~
Fresh Spring Roll with Daikon, Mango and Mint
Paired with Estate Brut Cuvée
Rice noodles, mango and carrots rolled in a rice wrapper with fresh mint, cucumber and Daikon radish sprouts
~
Sesame Ahi Tuna Poke Wonton with Avocado Mousse
Paired with Brut Rosé
Sashimi-grade ahi tuna mixed with English cucumber, wakame seaweed, scallion, cilantro and sesame seeds presented in a fried wonton and garnished with avocado mousse
~

Soba Noodle and Chicken Salad with Spicy Peanut Sauce

Paired with Verméil Demi-Sec
Buckwheat soba noodles, shredded chicken breast, red bell pepper, purple cabbage and cilantro tossed with a spicy peanut sauce and presented in a lettuce cup
~
Green Tea Pudding with Black Sesame Tuile
Paired with Verméil Demi-Sec
Creamy Matcha grean tea pudding accompanied by a tuile cookie made with tahini and black sesame seeds

ABOUT DOMAINE CARNEROS
Founded in 1987, Domaine Carneros reflects the hallmark of its founder, Champagne Taittinger, in creating a vision of terroir-driven sparkling wine with the quality tenets of the traditional method production and extended aging. Located entirely within the Carneros AVA, between Napa and Sonoma counties, the six estate vineyards total approximately 400 acres with 125 acres planted to Chardonnay, 225 acres planted to Pinot Noir, with the remaining acres currently in development. The winery focuses on making ultra-premium Carneros sparkling wines and limited production Pinot Noirs.Domaine Carneros’ château has become a landmark and symbol of the region. The architecture and interior design were inspired by the 18^th century Château de la Marquetterie, the Taittinger family residence in the Champagne region. The winery also places a high value on preserving the environment and has farmed sustainably since the late 1980s. The roof of the pinot noir winery adjacent to the château hosts a solar array that was the largest on any winery in the world when it was installed in 2003. Eileen Crane, CEO & Founding Winemaker, has overseen 31 harvests at the château and in 2018 celebrates the 20^th anniversary of the winery’s luxury cuvée, Le Rêve Blanc de Blancs.

For More Information
The stunning Domaine Carneros château and terrace are open to visitors for tours and tastings by appointment only from 10:00 a.m. – 5:30 p.m. daily. For more information, please call 800.716.2788 or visit www.domainecarneros.com.

One Bottle Post: 2000 CHÂTEAU DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU

September 14, 2018 by evebushman

So this just happened. My husband Eddie told me that we have at least six bottles of 2000 Bordeaux that he was pulling from our cellar to drink. Oh boy, one more reason I made the best choice ever in marrying this guy. Anyway, being the anal compulsive that I am I logged into my Wine Spectator account to see if these wines were ready to drink, in their opinion.

Photo: WineBuyers.com

To me, anything over ten years old is plenty of age on a Bordeaux, and it’s hard to wait longer anyway! I looked up all six and each had not only maintained a 90+ score, five had doubled in price when sold at auction. All were noted to drink from 2010 to 2023. Now sounded good to me. These are the six:

CHÂTEAU DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU

CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE LALANDE

CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-GASSIES

CHÂTEAU MARGAUX

CHÂTEAU MONTROSE

CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET

Now this could be a six-part series of one-bottle posts, if I can drink them with a notepad, pen and little distraction. Chances are some will be served at dinner parties when I’ll only be able to simply enjoy. You just have to check back to see…

And now to start, we opened our first:

2000 CHÂTEAU DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU

Tasting Notes

Color: Beautiful garnet color stretching out to show a bit of brown (due to age) on the edge.

Bouquet: Right off the bat we found the wine more “multi-dimensional” and “complex” than a younger Bordeaux, stateside or import. I noted aromas of plum, blackberry, blueberry, toasted French bread, dried leaves, dark chocolate, green peppercorn and chocolate-covered biscuit.

Flavor: A perfect balance of fruit and spice. Starting with a fresh bowl of red, blue and black fruit, smoke, char and medium tannins that provided a lengthy finish. My husband remarked that there were no bitter qualities and that the mouthfeel was velvety. We lingered over the bottle and noted that after 15 minutes in the glass the bouquet and flavor had developed even further with darker deeper notes, more earth and that same tannin backing off a bit quicker – still doing the job – but allowing for a even longer finish.

96 Eve pts.

From Wine Spectator (online)

St.-Julien 2000

Score: 94

Release Price $105

Current Auction Price $204

Country France

Region Bordeaux

Issue Web Only – 2016

Tasting Note: This has mature hints, but there’s great focus as the cedar, bay and leather notes race along with, rather than pull away from, the core of fig and blackberry fruit flavors. The long, bittersweet cocoa—dusted finish provides a solid bass line.–Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2023. –JM

One Bottle Post: 2000 CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE LALANDE

September 7, 2018 by evebushman

When I visited Chateau Pichon Longueville during a family vacation to France a few years back, it was a dream come true to tour and taste at this incredible Chateau, and you can read about that visit here in this article: Wine 101ers Dream Part IV: Visiting Bordeaux’s Château Pichon Baron.

Now come to find that it was time – according to my husband, aka the keeper of the cellar door key – to open a 2000 vintage of my own from the same Chateau. My mouth was set to watering mode.

This is one of six articles I hope to do on a total of six 2000 vintage Bordeaux wines we removed from my cellar that are ready to be opened with care, decanted with a strainer and tasted over some very nice long meals.

Photo: Vinous.com

2000 CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE LALANDE

Tasting Notes

Color: Clear, a youthful red garnet with a scant brown edge.

Bouquet: Perfumy, worn leather, crushed berries, dust, cedar, toasted marshmallow, cigarette, green bell pepper and what a good wine friend tasting the wine with me found on the nose: green olive tapenade. Interesting, right?

Flavor: Tart berries, smoke, a big round mouthfeel and with firm tannins that held for a lush long finish.

Pairing: We enjoyed this wine with the seemingly several-foot long cheese and charcuterie “Valley Board” – with olives, nuts, honeycomb, pears, grapes, chorizo, prosciutto, Brie, cheddar, Manchego and more – at the Newhall Press Room. From there the wine also worked perfectly with rich Bolognese pasta and rare filet.

94 Eve pts.

From Wine Spectator (online)

Score: 95

Release Price $130

Current Auction Price $227

Country France

Region Bordeaux

Issue Web Only – 2016

Tasting Note

This has pronounced bay and cassis bush aromas that impart lots of peppery and herbaceous lift, but this is hardly on the lean side as there’s a well of gorgeously pure currant and blackberry fruit notes at the core. The finish is sleek and glistening as an iron note takes over.–Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2028.

–JM

Vintage Eve Circa 2/2015: Union des Grands Crus Bordeaux Tasting 2012 Vintage

April 17, 2018 by evebushman

Luckily for everyone at the Union des Grands Crus Bordeaux tasting of the 2012 vintage there already was a buzz going. It may have accounted for the long winding line, that moved really fast once the doors to the venue, the Museum of Flying at Santa Monica Airport, were thrown open.

Chad the Wino!

Guests also knew they would, “Meet the world’s greatest winemakers and Chateau owners, be among the first to taste over 100 wines from the excellent new 2012 vintage (and be tasting in) the single largest private Bordeaux wine tasting in Los Angeles” according to our hosts, Wally’s Wine and Spirits.

We were to have “An opportunity to taste the 2012 vintage from top producers from Margaux, St Julien, Pauillac, St Estèphe, Listrac, Moulis, Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Graves, Pessac-Léognan, Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Sauternes and Barsac (and) all proceeds benefitting Food on Foot.”

For me I had seen this quote from wine writer and judge Wilfred Wong that got me revved up, “One of the great tastings for anyone who really wants to understand wine is the UGC Bordeaux Event. This year the organization was presenting the 2012 Bordeaux. As I tasted through 91 wines, my palate reinforced the notion that this a good, pretty solid vintage…Overall the classifieds made very good wines. Pomerol seemed to be the best, St. Emilion was pretty good. Margaux and Pessac quite good and the northern Medoc, a shade lighter…I look forward to enjoying many of these wines over the next 6-15 years. The classifieds are amongst the most solid wine producers in the world.”

“Chad the Wino” whose real name is still unknown to me but had garnered followers by the thousands on Facebook before deserting us, said, “UGCB R-O-C-K-E-D! 75 tastes, 1 dump, no spits.”

Once there I noted several wines in the Blanc category that proved to cleanse my palate with their round fruit flavors and acidity. Most of these were made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, some also had Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle.

The Rouge category was, as is the usual case for red Bordeaux, predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, some also with smaller percentages of Cabernet Franc, Carmenere, and Petit Verdot.

Our sweet Sauternes were from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, some added in Muscadelle.

In general, I found the 2012s palatable now as well as age worthy; with great balance, fruit and spice, in that order. Of my three-page tasting sheet I made several notes, but mostly just to note which I’d tasted, which I liked and which I wanted to buy. See the list below, if it’s in bold it’s one I hope to have more of! (And I certainly didn’t try everything, so use this only as a short guide.)

Facebook album link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10204862697154639.1073741896.1455706632&type=1&l=77a21067f1

About The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (aka UGC)

In Bordeaux, man has learnt to extract the very essence of an exceptional terroir and an exceptional climate. Moving beyond this mastery – born of a constant concern to improve the quality of their wines – the chateaux owners experienced very early the desire to share their passion with wine lovers the world over.

It was this desire to bring to the attention of the world the best of Gironde’s production that lay at the heart, in the 1970s, of a totally innovative approach to communication.

At that time, the initiatives that the viticulturists attempted abroad were the act of rare official bodies that brought together vintages drawn from the same geographical origin: in many cases the A.O.C. (Read more here)

The Wine List

Château d’ Armailhac
Château Beaumont
Château Beauregard
Château Beau-Séjour Bécot
Château Beychevelle
Château Le Bon Pasteur
Château Bouscaut
Château Branaire-Ducru
Château La Cabanne
Château de Camensac
Château Canon-La-Gaffelière
Château Cantemerle
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion
Château de Chantegrive
Château Chasse-Spleen
Domaine de Chevalier
Château Citran
Château Clarke
Château Clerc Milon
Château Climens
Château Clinet
Château Coufran
Château La Couspaude
Château Coutet
Château Croizet-Bages
Château Doisy Daëne
Château La Dominique
Château de Fieuzal (Blanc)

Château Fourcas Hosten
Clos Fourtet
Château Franc Mayne
Château La Gaffelière
Château Gazin
Château Giscours
Château Gloria
Château Grand-Puy Ducasse
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste
Château Gruaud Larose
Château Haut-Bailly
Château Kirwan
Château Labégorce
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey
Château Lagrange
Château La Lagune

Château La Tour Blanche

Château La Tour Figeac

Château Langoa Barton
Château Larrivet Haut-Brion (Blanc and Rouge)
Château Lascombes
Château Latour-Martillac (Blanc and Rouge)
Château Léoville Barton
Château Léoville Poyferré
Château La Louvière (Blanc and Rouge)
Château Lynch-Bages
Château Lynch-Moussas
Château Malartic-Lagravière
Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry
Château Marquis de Terme

Château Ormes De Pez
Château Pape Clément (Blanc and Rouge)
Château de Pez
Château Phélan Ségur
Château Pichon-Longueville
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Château La Pointe
Château Poujeaux
Château Prieuré-Lichine
Château Rauzan-Gassies
Château de Rayne Vigneau
Château Saint-Pierre
Château Siran
Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Château Talbot
Château du Tertre
Château La Tour Blanche
Château La Tour Carnet
Château La Tour de By
Château La Tour Figeac
Château Troplong Mondot
Château Trottevieille
Château Villemaurine

Clos Fourtet

Château Ormes De Pez
Château Pape Clément
Château de Pez
Château Phélan Ségur
Château Pichon-Longueville
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Château La Pointe
Château Poujeaux
Château Prieuré-Lichine
Château Rauzan-Gassies
Château de Rayne Vigneau
Château Saint-Pierre
Château Siran
Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Château Talbot
Château du Tertre
Château La Tour Blanche
Château La Tour Carnet
Château La Tour de By
Château La Tour Figeac
Château Troplong Mondot
Château Trottevieille
Château Villemaurine

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate Matter of Taste Returns to San Francisco

October 22, 2017 by evebushman

San Francisco, CA – Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (RobertParker.com), the leading authority on wine, announces the return of its international Matter Of Taste tour to San Francisco on Saturday November 4, 2017 at The City Club San Francisco.

On the heels of the sold-out events in Zurich and London earlier this year, the San Francisco Matter Of Taste tour continues the global series of exclusive events for RobertParker.com members, non-members and guests. The signature event, the Grand Walkabout Tasting, will feature over 150 outstanding wines, each rated 90 or more points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. This year’s themes will be Right-Bank Varieties and Global Sparkling.

The roster of events will include a VIP preview hour, the Grand Walkabout Tasting, and exclusive rare wine Master Classes. A progression of exceptional wine dinners will take place throughout San Francisco the week of October 30, 2017, including a very special “Vérité Winery Retrospective & Dinner” on November 3, 2017, hosted by Lisa Perroti-Brown MW and Vérité Winery’s Hélène Seillan at Spruce restaurant. The “La Paulée” Grande Finale Dinner, The Ultimate Hedonist’s BYOB Dinner, November 4, 2017, will conclude this extraordinary week, with guests invited to bring up to three bottles of their favorite “90 RP points or above” wines to share with fellow subscribers and members of the Robert Parker Wine Advocate review team. Set in the 12th floor Penthouse of the City Club San Francisco, a sumptuous sit-down, four course haute-cuisine menu will make this an extravagant feast not to miss. Seats are limited and will be available on a first come, first served basis. This is a rare chance to participate in a true Hedonist’s Gazette dinner with incredible vintner hosts and reviewers Neal Martin, Monica Larner, and Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW.

The Grand Walkabout Tasting, 12:00 p.m. – 5:00 p.m., will include some of the world’s most prized wines, encompassing a range of varietals, regions and styles. Well-regarded winemakers will be pouring their wines, including iconic wineries Abremundos, Cheval des Andes, Lagarde and Marcello (Argentina); Chateau Valandrad, Clos de Sarpe, Fleur Cardinale, Haut Bailly and Charles Heidsieck (France); Hickinbotham, Penley Estate, Giant Steps and Cullen (Australia); Feudi di San Gregorio, Ca’ del Bosco, Le Macchiole and Petrolo (Italy); Cono Sur, Calyptra and Leyda (Chile); Craggy Range, Te Mata Estate and Giesen (New Zealand); Dominio de la Vega (Spain); Prats & Symington (Portugal); Tokara (South Africa); Cadence, JM Cellars and Northstar (Washington); and Daou, La Jota and Peter Michael Winery (California).

In addition to the Grand Walkabout Tasting, six exclusive Master Classes are offered. Wine Advocate Editor-in-Chief reviewer Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW will be hosting “Washington and a Global View of Merlot” – a blind tasting of Washington and new world Merlots including 2013 Blackbird Vineyards Illustration Proprietary Red, 2013 Buty Winery Merlot, Cabernet Franc Conner Lee Vineyard, 2013 Kapcsandy Family Winery Merlot Roberta’s Reserve, 2013 Vérité La Muse, 2014 Cadence Bel Canto, 2014 Craggy Range Sophia Proprietary Red, 2014 Hickinbotham The Revivalist Merlot, 2014 Leonetti Cellar Walla Walla Merlot, 2014 Long Shadows Pedestal Merlot, 2014 Spring Valley Vineyard Uriah, and 2014 Woodward Canyon Estate Reserve.

Wine Advocate reviewer Neal Martin will be hosting “The Best of the Best: South Africa,” focusing on the very best wines of South Africa. The tasting will focus on the artisan South African winemakers, including rare and coveted wines from renowned growers such as Eben Sadie, Chris and Andrea Mullineux, and Bruwer Raats. In addition, Martin will be leading “Right Bank Legends: Rive Droite 2009, 2010, and 2015.” This tasting will examine three exemplary estates from some of the finest terroirs on the Right Bank: Belair-Monange in Saint Emilion, and La Fleur-Petrus and Trotanoy in Pomerol. Attendees will have the opportunity to compare each one from some of the finest vintages of the last 20 years: 2009, 2010 and a preview of 2015. Christian Moueix and Tod Mostero, Winemaker, Dominus Estates, will be in attendance offering insights into these wines and vintages.

Monica Larner, Wine Advocate reviewer, will lead “Italian Cabernet Franc: The Mighty French Grape Finds an Ideal Home in Italy,” where Cabernet Franc expresses its inner Italiano in this fascinating collection of wines. This stubborn grape from France finds a perfect home in the laid-back and sun-drenched vineyards of Italy, discovering its secret soul along the way. Find out why Italy and Cabernet Franc are a match made in heaven. Larner will also lead, with proprietor Luca Sanjust, “A Retrospective of Petrolo’s Galatrona: An Iconic Merlot from the Heart of Tuscany,” a tasting of the 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 vintages. In addition, Larner will host, with proprietor Antonio Capaldo, “A Retrospective of Feudi San Gregorio’s Patrimò: The Wine that put Southern Italy on the World Wine Map,” a tasting of the 1999, 2001, 2005, 2006, 2009, 2010, 2013 and 2015 vintages. For a complete list of featured wines as well as tickets for the Grand Walkabout Tasting and all six Master Classes and dinners, please visit www.a-matter-of-taste.com.

“Our members are some of the most passionate and knowledgeable wine consumers in the world. Matter of Taste is the perfect opportunity to share with our members a world-class wine experience they’ll cherish forever,” enthuses Perrotti-Brown.

The Matter of Taste wine experiences began in 2014 and have been in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, London, Chicago, Macau, Miami, Manila, Jakarta, Napa, New York, and San Francisco. Matter of Taste moves to New York on December 3, 2017.

Annual members of RobertParker.com are entitled to discounted tickets ($120 through October 21, 2017) to the Matter of Taste Grand Walkabout Tasting. Non-member discounted tickets ($180 through October 21, 2017) include a one-year membership to RobertParker.com and access to over 500,000 professional wine reviews and articles. A limited number of early entry VIP passes are available for an additional $100. All Master Class prices vary between $100 and $250 depending on the class. Further details and booking information are available at www.a-matter-of-taste.com.

About Robert Parker Wine Advocate

For more than 39 years, The Wine Advocate, and later RobertParker.com, have been the global leader and independent consumer’s guide to fine wine. The brand was established by the internationally recognized Robert M. Parker, Jr., the only critic in any field to receive the highest Presidential honor from three countries – France, Italy and Spain. Robert Parker Wine Advocate provides a wealth of information to its subscribers, including a searchable database of more than 300,000 professional wine ratings and reviews, in addition to articles, videos, daily news content, online retail availability and pricing, an active, professionally moderated bulletin board, a mobile app for easy access to the comprehensive online database of reviews, and much more. For more information, visit www.RobertParker.com.

33rd Annual Winesong Event on Mendocino Coast Raises $700,000 for Mendocino Coast Hospital Foundation

October 16, 2017 by evebushman

FORT BRAGG, CA – After a spectacular weekend of award-winning wine, fabulous food, fine art, music, merriment, and charitable giving, this year’s 33^rd annual Winesong was declared a resounding success, with increased auction sales and more guests than ever participating in the auctions. Held on the Mendocino Coast on September 8^th and 9^th, highlights included A Pinot Noir Celebration, the Grand Tasting event and a Live and Silent auction. Winesong is the main fundraising event benefiting the Mendocino Coast District Hospital. Produced by the Mendocino Coast Hospital Foundation, all proceeds go towards supporting the local Hospital that serves the entire Mendocino Coast, plus rural inland areas covering nearly half the distance to Highway 101.

Winesong 2017 kicked off on Friday, September 8th with a sold-out insider’s view of spectacular Pinot Noirs at ‘A Pinot Noir Celebration’ hosted by the Little River Inn. Guests enjoyed Pinot Noir tastings and delicious passed hors d’oeuvres, along with a chance to “talk shop” with the winemakers from Mendocino County, Napa and Sonoma Counties. On Saturday, September 9^th, attendees to the Grand Tasting strolled the enchanting Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens while enjoying vintages poured by world-class wineries from Mendocino, Napa, Sonoma and beyond, and bites from nearly 50 fine food purveyors. The celebration continued in the Auction Tents with the always-entertaining main attraction, the Live and Silent Auctions, where nearly 150 lots were on offer – including spectacular wines from a selection of prestigious wine producers, rare and hard-to-find vintages, special vertical and horizontal collections, original paintings and art from highly acclaimed artists, and domestic and international vacation packages.

Bidders at the Live Auction under the big tent helped raise significant funds, with a projected gross of more than $700,000 coming in from the two-day event. After covering production expenses, the Winesong net return will be used to assist the Mendocino Coast District Hospital purchase needed equipment. Some of the most coveted items were the big international trips and spectacular wine auction lots. Leading the way for bidding was a 10-day trip to South Africa, which was doubled at $21,000 per trip! Trips to Italy and Amsterdam each garnered $18,000. An unparalleled 20-bottle collection of Chateau Gruaud Larose Grand Cru went for $16,000 and a rare wine lot featuring companion vineyards from Chateau Pichon Longueville went for $17,000. Another highlight was the “Fund-A-Need” to help provide comfort and care to patients by way of upgraded beds and patient room improvements. The goal was $200,000, which was surpassed by a combination of day of bidders and pre-event gifts to raise $205,000, with 100% of these donations going directly to the Hospital.

“This year’s Winesong had a different layout than in the past, and one of the main purposes was to encourage general admission ticketholders to register for bidder paddles and join the fun,” says Jamie Peters, Event Director for Winesong. “And I’m happy to say that it worked! We had more new bidders than ever and are encouraged ourselves to continue to make it easy and convenient for all guests to participate in the auctions as well as the beautiful tasting.”

Other highlights from the live and silent auction include:

Lot 12: Artist of the Year art piece – “Barn Song” – a 30” x 30” Bas Relief – $14,000
Lot 16A: A surprise lot courtesy of Ann & Dick Grace that includes dinner for 4 at The French Laundry and large format wines from Grace Family Vineyards – $12,000
Lot 22: “Sweethearts in Paradise” – a trip for two couples to Barbados – $13,000
Lot 24: 45” x 60” giclee on canvas by the late Lowell Herrero – $15,000

“We were thrilled with the results of Winesong 2017,” states Michelle Roberts, Executive Director of the Mendocino Coast Hospital Foundation. “The live auction tent was filled with energy as generous donors responded to the call to action to help us fund vital equipment at Mendocino Coast District Hospital. We thank everyone who helped make the day a success. The generosity around this event is truly awe-inspiring.”

About Winesong & the Mendocino Coast Hospital Foundation

Winesong is produced by the Mendocino Coast Hospital Foundation, a non-profit organization dedicated to raising funds for the Mendocino Coast District Hospital. Its mission is to help the small rural Hospital provide the best possible medical care to residents as well as the many visitors to the Mendocino Coast. Winesong proceeds have enabled the Hospital to purchase chemotherapy equipment, portable ultrasound machines for the Emergency Room as well as a state-of-the-art Diagnostic Imaging Center, Cardiology Equipment, a Bedside Medicine Verification System and a Patient Bedside Monitoring & Alert system.

For further information, please visit http://winesong.org or call (707) 961-4688.

Perlis Picks: From Abe Schoener — Wine Study in the Loire: Lessons in the Foundation of Winemaking – Part Four

September 30, 2017 by Michael Perlis

A Continuation of Abe Schoener’s [The Scholium Project]…

A NEW LESSON IN THE MORAL NATURE OF WINEMAKING: LES JARDINS DES ESMÉRALDINS

The Moral Thinking of the Wizard

There is a little more magic to mention: the invisible cellar, the shuttered chateau. But I do not want to emphasize this. Xavier does not play any of this up: like the vineyards, all of this disappears. There is no show: only wine. He does not even make a show of his methods; he never mentions his own devotion; he never draws distinctions between his way of working and his neighbors’. He does not celebrate or elevate what he does; he is utterly matter of fact. He never mentions “purity” or any other value. His only point of pride, if I read him right, is his wine’s relation to time. His only theory, insofar as I could grasp, is related to what he calls “matière”– “matter.” His labels have alchemical references (see photo); I think that he means something old-fashioned and metaphysical by this. He does not just mean “matter” or even something like information. He talks about his farming being devoted to translating matter from the field (not just the soil) to the grapes, and his pressing being devoted to translating the matter from the grapes to the juice. The density of this wine is due to this attention to matter– and also the complexity, I think. But this means that “matière” is not just some concentration of molecules, but some kind of system, with architecture, proportion, interrelation. For what else is complexity? His matter, I think, is something more like spirit or soul– not necessarily in the Christian sense, but in a way that Aristotle would understand.

Soul, of course, brings up the question of spirituality and devotion. I thought of his pressing all night and then getting up the morning to harvest fruit. I thought how differently we work at Scholium. For us winemaking is intensely intellectual and sensual– you know that– but it is also intensely athletic in a way that we love. We pride ourselves in a very American way on how fast we can get the job done well. One cannot help but call Xavier’s work “spiritual,” and I mean this only in a good way, not as a stereotype or a caricature. You could only call our work “spiritual” in a very narrow but perhaps equally beautiful way: the spirituality of Huck Finn, a very American spirituality.

It was wonderful and important for me to encounter this difference and to reflect on it.

Would we– me, Alex, Brenna, Koko, would any of us make better wines if we sat with the press all night? I don’t think so– but for us to do that and not simply be aping a quiet wizard in the Loire, for us to do that, we would have to change to our deepest metaphysical core. In this respect, what this amazing visit emphasized is that, in spite of my 1000 careful words…winemaking is not fundamentally about technique, protocol, regime or even about care. It is about decisions and stances that reach to one’s roots.

These two excellent reports by Betrand Celce are very helpful, especially on farming, and contain amazing details and photographs about Xavier’s caves. I tried not to rely on them at all and to base my report only on our conversation, but I know that I was influenced (and informed) by having read these. It is also worth noting how far ahead of the curve Betrand was: they date from 2011.

www.wineterroirs.com/2011/06/natural_wine_tasting_event_paris.html

www.wineterroirs.com/2011/08/xavier_caillard_jardins_esmeraldins_saumur.html

A note on Xavier’s labels: The typography is mostly fantastic (except for mise-en-bouteille information) and involves some straightforward imitations of Roman epigraphy in a circle at the top. (We will read this in a moment.) The rest of the words are written in the hand-drawn letters of a fantastic alphabet, the majority of which interweave alchemical symbols with the Modern Latin letters. The words in the circle are a quotation from the Latin Vulgate translation of Paul’s Epistle to the Romans: hora est jam nos de somno surgere — “now is the time to wake up from our slumber.” The allusions to alchemy are very interesting to me and not surprising. What is more unexpected is a quotation from the Vulgate. Xavier’s thinking is simple in its commitment and focus; but complex in what you might call its metaphysical underpinnings. Pay attention to every gesture.

Michael Perlis here again. A big thank you to Abe Schoener for allowing me to share this with Eve’s Wine 101 readers. And a thank you to Eve Bushman too for indulging my wish to do so.