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Perlises Pick: Caliza Winery

December 18, 2021 by Michael Perlis

When we decided it was time to visit wine country again, selecting the region was pretty easy. Paso Robles has long been a favorite of ours, going back to the 1980s[!]. Deciding who to visit was a little tougher – there are a lot of people who we consider friends in Paso and many of the wineries are on our “favorites” list. In addition, there are many new wineries that deserve attention.

One thing that was certain was that we needed to visit Carl Bowker at Caliza Winery. The one and only time that we did visit Caliza must have been soon after they opened the tasting room in 2008 – Pam and Carl Bowker had started making wine commercially with the 2006 vintage, but didn’t make their first wines available until late 2008. [We had actually tried to plan a visit in 2018 but couldn’t coordinate schedules.] Since that one time, we had relied on tasting Carl’s efforts at various events, such as Rhone Rangers and the Garagiste Festivals and they were always outstanding. But with no events happening in the last year and a half, visiting became a must.

Upon our arrival at the winery at the end of Anderson Road in the Willow Creek District AVA, Carl gave us a 4-wheel tour of the hillside vineyard adjacent to the tasting room. Carl explained that while the Caliza property is 60 acres, only 28 of those acres are planted. The expected Rhone varieties are there [Syrah, Grenache, Roussanne, Viognier, Mourvedre / Mataro], along with some Primitivo, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo and Tannat. Limestone and slate dominate the soil in this area [Caliza means “limestone” in Spanish]. The qualities of the soil and the climate of the Templeton Gap are what make this AVA so unique and enables Caliza and neighbors such as L’Aventure and Booker to make such great wines, as do other wineries that source fruit from the area.

And great wines they are. Sitting outside with Carl and tasting through the lineup reminded us of how much we enjoy his wines:

2020 “Pink” Rosé – One of the more complex rosés we’ve had, with a rich, strong finish and notes of white peach; a very bright blend of Grenache and Mourvedre.

2019 Viognier – This delicious 100% Viognier was concrete egg fermented. We noted ripe melon fruit with a dry, medium finish, and a full mouthfeel.

2019 Kissin Cousins – the 2020 vintage is already sold out but fortunately Carl has some of the 2019 left of this blend (48% Viognier, 30% Grenache Blanc, 22% Roussanne) that is always one of our favorites. Fermented in a combination of neutral and new oak and stainless steel (depending on the varietal) this wine had a solid mid- palate, clean stone fruit, and white flowers on the nose.

2019 Sidekick – another tasty white blend, this one 80% Roussanne and 20% Viognier. Barrel aged with a rich golden color, and notes of fresh straw and chalk, this is a serious food wine.

2018 Azimuth –the first of four outstanding reds that we tasted, this one is a blend of 50% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Huge fruit, notes of cherry, complex but balanced.

2017 Cohort – 58% Petite Sirah, 28% Syrah, 14% Mourvedre. This one was held back a year so the Petite could integrate, which it certainly did in this superb inky blend.

2018 Syrah – no nickname needed for this delicious 100% Syrah. It was fresh, bright, big and rich.

2018 Companion – the only wine that contains some non-estate fruit, this blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Syrah created a terrific symbiotic pairing.

The accompanying cheese board from Paso favorite Vivant Fine Cheese with pairings selected specifically for the wines tasted just added to the experience, as did the great vineyard view from the patio.

As we were leaving, Carl mentioned that he had another important writer stopping in after us…from The Wine Advocate. Now that is impressive, but equally so is how Carl considered us to be important too. It goes to show you that he and the rest of the Caliza staff treats everyone with the same importance no matter who you are.

We Perlises don’t give number ratings, but we thought we’d share these with you from hugely respected critic, Jeb Dunnuck [as per the Caliza website]:

2018 Azimuth            95 points

2018 Companion      95 points

2018 Syrah               95 points

2017 Cohort              94 points

In your visits to Paso Robles wine country, you might be tempted to not go all the way to the end of Anderson Road. We really think you should because, if you don’t, you’ll be missing out on some great wines and wonderful down-to-earth people.

Caliza Winery

www.calizawinery.com

2570 Anderson Road
Paso Robles, CA 93446

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Filed Under: Michael Perlis Tagged With: ava, Barrel, cheese, color, fermentation, food pairing, fruit, garagiste, Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Jeb dunnuck, limestone, Mourvedre, mouthfeel, Oak, palate, Paso Robles, petaluma gap, Petite Sirah, primitivo, Rhone, rhone rangers, Rose, Roussanne, scores, soil, stainless steel, Syrah, Tannat, tasting room, Tempranillo, varietal, vineyard, vintage, Viognier, wine pairing, wineries

Taste of Santa Rita Hills: Top Scoring Wines

March 31, 2021 by evebushman

Let’s talk wine scores.

If you have been to our tasting room, you probably have noticed that we do not talk about wine scores. That doesn’t mean that we don’t pay attention to wine scores and read reviews, but we trust our own palates. When it comes to wines from Sta. Rita Hills, we have the experience to understand if a wine offers what we expect in a wine from the area, and to judge as to whether or not the wine is priced appropriately for its quality and complexity. So we don’t feel the need to promote or choose wines based on scores.

We have been asked in the past, why not discuss a wine that has a stellar score? We could, but we want our customers to trust our palates and their own. If you like a wine, it doesn’t matter whether the wine received a 80 or 100 points. In addition, there are many wines that do not get sent out for review so will never receive a score.

There are many of you that live far away and cannot be here to try the wines yourselves, or perhaps do not know our expertise well. In that case, scores might be helpful for you to have a third party recommendation about some of the wines we carry. In addition there are many of you that have cellars and like to collect top-scoring wines. We understand that.

So here you go…a short list of some of the top-scoring wines we are currently carrying.

Cheers,
Jeni and Antonio

Taste of Santa Rita Hills

98 Points:

Paul Lato Pinot Noir “Lancelot”, Pisoni Vineyard, 2018 (Jeb Dunnuck)

97 Points:

The Hilt Pinot Noir “Old Guard” 2017 (Antonio Galloni)
Paul Lato Syrah “Cinematique”, Larner Vineyard, 2017 (Jeb Dunnuck)
Paul Lato Syrah/Grenache “Space Cadet” 2018 (Wine Advocate)
Paul Lato Pinot Noir “C’est la Vie”, Drum Canyon Vineyard, 2018 (Jeb Dunnuck)
Paul Lato Pinot Noir “Atticus”, Sebastiano Vineyard, 2018 (Jeb Dunnuck)
Paul Lato Pinot Noir “Victor Francis”, Peake Ranch, 2018 (Jeb Dunnuck)

96 Points:

The Hilt Pinot Noir “Vanguard” 2017 (Jeb Dunnuck)
Paul Lato Chardonnay “Ma Jolie”, Peake Ranch, 2018 (Jeb Dunnuck)

95+ Points:

Paul Lato Pinot Noir “Seabiscuit”, Zotovich Vineyard, 2018 (Jeb Dunnuck)

94 Points:

Walt Pinot Noir, Clos Pepe Vineyard, 2017 (Wine Enthusiast)
Spear Pinot Noir 2018 (Jeb Dunnuck)
Samuel Smith Chardonnay, Spear Vineyard, 2018 (Wine Enthusiast)

93 Points:

Bonaccorsi Pinot Noir, Sebastiano Vineyard, 2013 (93 Wine Advocate)
Ryan Cochrane Pinot Noir, Fiddlestix Vineyard, 2017 (Wine Enthusiast)

92 Points:

Walt Pinot Noir, Clos Pepe Vineyard, 2018 (Wine Spectator)
Spear Chardonnay, Gnesa Vineyard, 2017 (Wine Advocate)
Ground Truth Pinot Noir, La Encantada Vineyard, 2016 (Wine Enthusiast)

Note: Some wines are extremely limited.

 

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: cellar, Chardonnay, Jeb dunnuck, palate, Pinot Noir, scores, sta. rita hills, Syrah, tasting room, vineyard, wine advocate, wine enthusiast, wine review, wine spectator

Reviewing Hall Wines At Home

October 23, 2020 by evebushman

My experiences with Hall Wines over the years have included tours at both the Hall, Rutherford Hill winery and the original winery, that has had some incredible updating, on Highway 29. We also attended a Hall Cabernet Release Party that was really a showcase of all Hall wines and the wonderful local food. I try to share their press releases quite a bit as well. I had not, however, reviewed any of the wines from home in a long time. That changed when I received these two bottles for review. Both were very good and only make me want to visit them again.

2016 Kathryn Hall Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

16.1% alcohol

Observations only: Love a deep punt and a heavy weighted bottle, always makes me think the wine has extraordinary value. The color was a deep garnet with a crystal clear edge.

Aroma: Black pepper tickled my nose at first, and then a lot of black plum, crushed black cherries, red peppercorn, toasted oak and pipe tobacco.

Flavor: Very spicy up front with some redder fruit mid-palate, that same black fruit as on the nose, tri-color pepper, rich, tannic, dark with a long and drying finish.

Wine.com shows these scores: Robert Parker/The Wine Advocate 97, Wilfred Wong 96, Jeb Dunnuck 95, Vinous/Antonio Galloni 94, Wine Enthusiast 94.

From Wine Spectator, July 15,2020 issue, 96 points, release price of $185. Tasting notes: A beauty, with creamed plum, braised fig and melted black licorice notes that are long and deep, gliding through effortlessly and ending with a swath of espresso, loam and smoldering tobacco details.

Hard to resist now, but will cruise in the cellar. Best from 2021 through 2035. 6,600 cases made. — JM (James Molesworth, senior editor.)

My conclusion: Not to disagree with any of our experts, I’m somewhere between Galloni and Wong. Great wine!

Walt Wines 2018 Pinot Noir, Bob’s Ranch, Sonoma County 

Observations: Dark cranberry in color with a dark gold edge. We had this with Pork Wellington and it was perfect.

Aroma: tart red cherry, earth, crushed leaves, round.

Flavor: red to dark cherry, red currant, very round mouthfeel – which I felt would come from the nose – long and tingly finish.

My conclusion: Though not a big Pinot fan I do appreciate the excellent fruit and care that went into this wine. I would not and did not stick up my nose against it. Would definitely drink again. And again.

Jeb Dunnuck 92 points, “…it offers an outstanding bouquet of bright black cherry and mulberry fruit intermixed with Asian spices, violets, and pine/foresty notions. Ripe, medium to full-bodied, and beautifully textured, this terrific Pinot Noir has plenty of classic Sonoma Coast complexity and elegance and will keep for 5-7 years.” $85

From Wine Spectator: This wine not rated, two other 2018 Walt Pinots, both from Santa Lucia Highlands, Rosella’s Vineyard and Sierra Mar were awarded 92 points each and the release price on both were $75.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: alcohol, antonio galloni, aroma, cabernet, cellar, color, earthy, finish, flavor, fruit, Jeb dunnuck, mouthfeel, Napa Valley, nose, Oak, palate, Pinot Noir, robert parker, rutherford, sonoma county, spice, tasting notes, wilfred wong, wine advocate, wine enthusiast, wine spectator, Wine tasting, winery

Rocky Pond Estate Winery Adds Accomplished Consulting Winemaker

August 17, 2020 by evebushman

ORONDO, Wash.,/PRNewswire/ — Rocky Pond Estate Winery, the Washington producer crafting wines from their beautiful and sustainably farmed riverside and lakeside estate vineyards, has reached an agreement with highly regarded and accomplished winemaker and viticulturist Steve Leveque. He will join the team for the 2020 growing season and will lead all winemaking activities alongside their established Winemaker Shane Collins and current vineyard management team led by Javier Rocha.

“We are filled with excitement and anticipation as we welcome Steve to the team,” stated Owners and Founders David and Michelle Dufenhorst. “This is another building block in our mission to elevate Rocky Pond as the top Eastern Washington wine destination. We believe in the potential of this special region, its micro-climates, and soils. By adding Steve to share his wealth of experience and to guide our excellent winemaking and vineyard teams, we hope to take our offering to the next level.
https://www.parkviewortho.com/wp-content/languages/new/doxycycline.html

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Leveque’s list of winemaking work is impressive, extensive, and full of household names like HALL, Chalk Hill, Opus One, and Mondavi. His addition to the Rocky Pond team is a monumental investment in the future of wine quality and vineyard management that will further elevate and expand the burgeoning program for decades to come.

Leveque honed his winemaking techniques during his 10-year tenure as winemaker at Robert Mondavi Winery. He also gleaned cutting-edge ideas from leading viticulture research and visionary collaborators including prominent wine consultant Michel Rolland. Steve went on to work as executive vice president and winemaker of Chalk Hill Estate Winery in Sonoma, where he handcrafted an award-winning portfolio from small-lot Bordeaux varietals and Chardonnay.

Leveque has also earned three 100 Point scores from Wine Advocate, two 100 Point scores from Jeb Dunnuck and the #2 Wine in the World from Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2011. Over 80 of Steve’s wines have been rated 99-95 Points from the elite wine publications.

“I am excited and humbled to be working with such a dedicated and talented team. The level of commitment and leadership shown by the Dufenhorst family is something I rarely get to experience, and I can’t wait to make wine from their amazing vineyards,” states Steve Leveque. “The Double D and Rocky Reach vineyards, with an abundance of rock and glacial silt soils, coupled with ideal climatic conditions, makes me confident that world-class wines will be the standard at Rocky Pond.”

The Dufenhorsts have been actively compiling quite the all-star team. They are laser-focused on increasing quality across the board through innovation in winemaking, sustainable vineyard practices, and elevated hospitality experiences. Leveque will work alongside current Rocky Pond Winemaker and native of Lake Chelan Shane Collins in addition to President John Ware who recently took the reins after twenty years at Quilceda Creek.

Rocky Pond currently operates two beautifully adorned tasting lounges – one in Chelan and the other in Woodinville – for their beloved wine club members and wine lovers alike. They invite guests for wine tastings, bottle purchases, and culinary chef specials created by their in-house Executive Chef each week by reservation at www.rockypondwinery.com.

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: Bordeaux, Chardonnay, chef, climate, culinary, estate, grower, Jeb dunnuck, points, scores, soil, Sonoma, varietal, vineyards, viticulture, washington, wine advocate, wine club, wine spectator, winemaker, winemaking

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Eve Bushman, owner Eve’s Wine 101 and Eve Bushman Consulting.

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