Perlis Picks: Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards and Winery

January 12, 2019 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

Let me make this perfectly clear: I have nothing against Cabernet Sauvignon. While our own personal wine journey has taken us primarily down the Zinfandel and Rhone paths, we definitely recognize Cabernet’s place in the pantheon of great wine grapes. Most of our wine trips tend to focus on our favorite varietals, but we have no aversion to expanding those choices. So when our friends gave us a certificate for a tasting at Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery we were happy to do just that.

Stone Edge Farm actually owns three vineyards – Stone Edge, Mount Pisgah and Silver Cloud, which are managed organically by the renowned Phil Coturri.

The Stone Edge Vineyard property at the base of Sonoma Mountain was acquired by Mac and Leslie McQuown in 1995. The property has the distinction of having been owned by Nicholas Carriger, who came to Sonoma from Missouri in 1847. When he planted here, he became the first American to grow wine grapes in Sonoma Valley.

Mac McQuown had his own distinction, not only as a very successful businessman and entrepreneur, but also in the wine industry, having been a founder of both Chalone and Carmenet wineries.

Winemaker Jeff Baker, who was also a partner at Carmenet, joined the McQuowns with his Mount Pisgah Vineyard in the Mayacamas Mountains. Eventually they formed Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery in 2004.

The Silver Cloud Vineyard is in the Moon Mountain District just north of the Mount Pisgah vineyard, up in the Mayacamas Mountains where Sonoma County borders Napa County. The tasting room is on the Silver Cloud property and it is aptly named, being at a high elevation seemingly close to the clouds. It’s a long, winding and narrow road; they recommend you hire a driver. Please don’t go all the way up there without making an appointment first.

Karen and I had plans to head into Napa (more on this in a future article) so we chose that morning to pay Stone Edge Farm a visit.

We parked and were met by Philippe Thibault, Stone Edge Farm’s Director of Hospitality, who gave us a tour of this amazing mountain property and led our tasting.

Stone Edge Farm makes three wines: a Sauvignon Blanc a Bordeaux blend called “Surround” and their flagship Cabernet Sauvignon.

We tasted the 2016 Sauvignon Blanc [actually an 80/20 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon], two vintages of the Surround blend [2009 and 2014] and the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon.

My impressions were that these wines are designed to showcase the fruit but to not overpower the palate. Sometimes wines are referred to as “food wines” because they just don’t stand on their own and need food to make them work. That was not the case here. The wines all drank beautifully on their own but the experience was definitely enhanced by the charcuterie that was provided.

The Cabernet Sauvignon in particular made a special impression. I am not one for complicated tasting notes, but I did comment specifically about the mouthfeel of this wine, the way it magically spread across my tongue and then dissipated. I actually said “…like a cloud” before I remembered we were at the Silver Cloud Vineyard.

As I’m sure you’ve noticed, the name is Stone Edge Farm. The entire operation is built around sustainability and includes 16 acres that are organically farmed just west of downtown Sonoma. There is a 30-seat private dining room called Edge where their culinary director pairs the Stone Edge Farm wines with seasonal dishes.

Just to wrap up – Thank you so much Philippe Thibault for being such an engaging host. This is definitely a winery to check out when you are looking for an elevated experience, both in location and in wine. But remember: Make an appointment!

Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Wine 101ers Get: AUSTRALIA UP CLOSE Part One

June 9, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

With a geographical size similar to the US and distinct climates, soils and terroirs, its no surprise that Australia boasts an array of wine styles, regions and grape varieties for you to experience.

This was an intriguing teaser to a recent Australian wine event I attended. I went in knowing very little about Australian white wines so I signed up for their seminar, and then knew I would enjoy the walk around tasting to get my fill of the wines I was more familiar with: Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignons and many Bordeaux and Rhone blends.

SEMINAR – White Wines: Unique Expressions of Australian Riesling, Semillon and Chardonnay

Australia is blessed with regions and climates that can produce truly world-class wines from the noblest of vines. Discover the many exciting expressions of Riesling, Semillon and Chardonnay being produced across Australia’s diverse wine regions. Presented by special guests and winemakers, and moderated by Wine Australia.

Our Seminar Panelists

Fahara Zamorano – Head Sommelier, Gwen LA; Matt Kaner – Owner, Bar Covell & Augustine; Kyle Meyer – Wine Exchange; Bruce Tyrrell – Tyrrell’s Wines; Jeff Burch – Howard Park Wines; Jeff McWilliam – McWilliam’s Wines; Mark Davidson, Wine Australia (Moderator).

Seminar Wines – Flavors and Aromas separated by ;

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Hunter Semillon Hunter Valley 2011 – Green apple, pineapple lemon zest, Mandarin orange and white pepper all on the nose; with lemon-lime, bruised apple and a medium acidity on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon Hunter Valley 2009 – I smelled apple, pear, fresh lemon, pears in light syrup; then tasted bright and tangy fresh fruit – same as those I found on the nose. 90 Eve pts.

Ashbrook Estate Semillon Margaret River 2015 – Perfumy aroma, then bruised yellow apple, cream and a pale hint of cinnamon; viscous on the mouth, as well as slightly paler fruit and a long finish. 90 Eve pts.

Silkman Estate Semillon Hunter Valley 2015 – Lemon, toast, grapefruit and unsalted butter on the nose; followed by tart apple and limeade on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Pewsey Vale Contours Riesling Eden Valley 2011 – Fruit cocktail, green grass to yellow hay, floral and bright; that same bright quality came through on the taste as well as lemon, grass, acidity, bone dry. 90 Eve pts.

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling Clare Valley 2016 – Bright aromas of pears and kiwi fruit; followed by lemon, orange and steel on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling Frankland River 2015 – Green apple, crushed green leaves and a whiff of orange on the nose; the palate was very sharp citrus fruit: lemon and orange, a slight viscosity and a long dry finish. 90 Eve pts.

Pressing Matters R9 Riesling Tasmania 2015 – My favorite of all the white wines I tasted with aromas of sweet orange blossoms, apple pie and a bit of cream; then came a slightly sweet and lingering fresh lemon-lime fruit on the mouth. 91 Eve pts. (All of the Riesling shared the same bone dry quality, except this expression from Tasmania.)

McWilliam’s 842 Chardonnay Tumbarumba 2013 – Fresh oak, honey, barnyard, earth, citrus, butter and white pepper on the nose; then the taste was tart, some oak and apple. 91 Eve pts.

Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay Mornington Peninsula 2012 – Earthy, dried apple, butter, clove and steely; then bruised apple, tart with medium acid. 90 Eve pts.

Howard Park Miamup Chardonnay Margaret River 2015 – Toast, lemon, cream, and a general feeling of being in a sweet floral garden; the flavors were bright, tart and citrusy with a medium acidity and long finish. 89 Eve pts.

Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay Adelaide Hills 2014 – Creamery butter, lemon and green fields; then that same lemon on the mouth, but light, and a leaner acidity. 89 Eve pts.

What I Learned From Our Panelists and the White Wine Tasting

One of our panelists stated that if you remotely expect that a Semillon from Australia would taste like one from Bordeaux, France you would be dead wrong. If you thought that a Riesling from Australia would taste like its German counterpart you would be equally wrong. My tasting notes above probably express this.

Australia is considered a New World wine area, however, Meyer would like us to see their wines as truly old world, but with an edge. The vines are very old, the area is larger than Europe and Phylloxera has never hit them.

The 12 elite wineries in “Australia’s First Families of Wine” group have several criteria to meet including their dedication to promote Australian wine to the global market, 100% family owned and have to have at least a 20 year vertical.

Next week I will run part two of the tasting, the reds I got to try, on June 16 here on this blog.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Écluse Wines Take Home Three Double Gold Medals in 2017 SF Chronicle Wine Competition

February 27, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Écluse Wines, a boutique, family owned winery located on Kiler Canyon Road on the Westside of Paso Robles was awarded three Double Gold medals and four Gold Medals in the 2017 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. The competition is the largest in the United States, attracting more than 7,000 entries from 28 states this year.

Results announced earlier this week gave the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon a Double Gold medal – the only Cabernet to earn this distinction in its class in the $39-$42.99 suggested retail price (SRP) category. The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon showcases enticing bright cherry aromas leading to dark fruit, currants and a hint of espresso on the palate for an elegant and luscious finish.

“The 2014 wines are complex and showcase layers of flavors unique to our vineyard,” said Pam Lock, proprietor. “We are honored that nearly 67 judges from across the United States feel the same as our customers, and that our wines continue to earn high scores across the board.”

Écluse Wines also received a Double Gold medal for their 2014 Petite Sirah, which begins with black plums, blackberry and caramel with a velvety richness and spice on the mid-palate and a long, lingering finish. The other Double Gold winner was the 2014 Zinfandel, which begins with aromas of bright red fruit and hints of oak and vanilla. These flavors continue on the palate with notes of cassis and blackberry, a full mouthfeel and an incredibly smooth finish.

The winery also took home four Gold medals for the following: the 2014 Ensemble, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec; the 2014 Improv, a blend of Petit Verdot, Merlot, Petite Sirah and Syrah; the 2014 Insider, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon; and the 2014 Rendition, a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Écluse also scooped up two Silver awards, one for their Blind Dog Midnight Run Cuvee and the other for their 2014 Lock Vineyard Syrah.

“Since we began entering the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition in 2008 our results have been consistent, every wine we have entered has medaled. In 2011 our 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon won the sweepstakes award for Best Red. It’s great exposure and an honor for our small brand,” Lock concluded.

Écluse Wines are crafted from their 30-acre Lock Vineyard. Known for producing some of Paso Robles most sought-after grapes and terroir driven wines, proprietors Pam and Steve Lock are dedicated to making small, limited production award-winning wines. Wine enthusiasts interested in tasting these award-winning wines may visit the Écluse tasting room Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11 am – 4 pm or order online at www.eclusewines.com.

Vintage Eve Circa April 2012: Music and Wine Come Together via Brittney Westover

October 11, 2016 by evebushman Leave a Comment

This week readers get their wine paired with song…in the name of voice teacher, bartender, cocktail server and former Santa Clarita resident, Brittney Westover. You may know Brittney from her time bartending at Roman Holiday Wine Lounge, or teaching voice at our popular VIBE Performing Arts Studios. I know both places…and have been lucky enough to hear Brittney sing myself. I will never forget how she brought me to tears at last year’s Vine 2 Wine Classic, when I stopped working long enough to hear her sing opera.

Brittney, tell Beacon readers IF there is a connection between a love of wine and a love of music. My theory is that if one stops to smell the flowers, aka think about the wine they are drinking or the music they are listening to, that their awareness of all life’s beauty is more apparent to them. Does that make sense?

That makes a lot of sense to me, Eve. I think it’s different for each individual, but for me, enjoying a great glass of wine while listening to music that moves me is like doubling my pleasure, doubling the fun! Consuming delectable beverages can enhance my music-listening experience, and vice versa as well. There are also times when I like to enjoy them separately so that I can really pay attention to one thing at a time, and appreciate it for just what it is. But like you said, it’s your awareness that gives you a sense of connection and appreciation for all the beautiful and pleasurable things life has to offer. I feel very blessed to have that awareness in so many aspects of my life.

Having moved recently from Santa Clarita to Pasadena you picked up a new job at Raymond Restaurant and Bar 1886 in South Pasadena. What do you like about the bar menu there that will tempt us to drive out?

Well, Eve, I have to say that I am thoroughly impressed by Bar 1886’s cocktail program. In addition to an extensive wine list and 3 rotating beers on tap from local breweries, the bar rolls out a seasonal cocktails list that will knock your socks off.

The ice alone is enough to give me goosebumps, as it is hand-harvested in huge cubes or shaved thinly to top off drinks like a snow cone mound. But the mixologists there are really talented, and they don’t mess around! They infuse their own liquor with unique ingredients (try Horseradish Vodka in their signature Bloody Marys and Peanut Butter Bourbon in the Honey Nut Old-Fashioned) and create their own house-made syrups from ingredients like chamomile or cinnamon bark.

They even have “beer cocktails” like this spring’s “Wild Orchid,” created by bartender Brady Weise, which is comprised of Pisco, White Vermouth, Grand Marnier, and Hefeweissen, thrown and served up with a wild orchid garnish.

Flaming garnishes are also common and an unforgettable presentation. I think my favorite cocktail this spring might be Garrett McKechnie’s “El Galgo,” or the Spanish Greyhound, which is made with Serrano chili-infused Chichicapa (a smokey single-village mezcal), homemade agave liquor, and white grapefruit juice. It is spicy, smoky, salty, and sweet, all at once. The combination of flavors is just sensational.

And if you’re hungry, there are plenty of gourmet gastro-pub style snacks you can share off the bar menu, like their famous Pork Belly, cured, pressed, & crisped, Griddled Cheese Sandwich with Taleggio and Jalapeño Jelly, or Grilled Octopus with pineapple, coconut, and ponzu.

If you come for Parlour Hour Monday-Friday between 5-7 pm, you will find a $4 beer, $5 glasses of house red and house white wine, a $6 champagne punch, and a $7 featured craft cocktail. During Parlour Hour, all food off the Bar Menu is $2 off. Honestly, what’s NOT to like about this place??

I’ve been a fan of all that Andrea Vibe has accomplished over the years at VIBE. I just wish she could serve wine at the shows! What is your current class schedule there…and give us a contact number too!

I agree about the wine thing, however, since most of our performers are under age, it’s probably not appropriate! Therefore, we stick with cookies and lemonade or coffee as our refreshments after the concerts! However, I know that Andrea Vibe is a big supporter of Roman Holiday, which made it nice to work for both places.

I am proud to say that I have been teaching private voice and piano lessons, group keyboard classes, and Broadway Camps at Vibe for over 5 years now. I find teaching music to be very rewarding, especially when I get to see my students succeed onstage! I used to teach 4 days a week at Vibe, but since I recently moved to Pasadena, I have gone down to Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays. On Mondays and Thursdays, I am there from 3pm-7pm, and Wednesdays I primarily teach group keyboard classes from 4-7pm. My schedule is pretty booked up right now, but if anyone is interested, I would be happy to try and squeeze you in somewhere! The phone number for Vibe Performing Arts Studios is (661) 255-7464.

I know that you’re still “on-call” at Roman Holiday Lounge and I also understand that there has been some other changes in management and personnel. What can wine drinkers that haven’t been there in awhile expect?

Yes, I am still on-call at Roman Holiday because I didn’t want to completely sever ties that I made there. I have had a lot of fun working at RH over the last 14 months, and made some very strong bonds with a lot of the staff, so I am happy that owner, Gunner Resendez, is allowing me to be on “On-Call” status.

As you know, the 64 different wines in the Argon-pressurized, self-serve Wine Station machines rotate on a pretty regular basis. This sometimes makes it difficult even for the staff to keep up, but you can always expect something new that you didn’t get to try the last time you were in! For the ladies who love sweet whites, we got a delicious new Moscato in recently called Allegro, and there is also the White Delight by our local Reyes Winery from Agua Dulce.

For those who love big bold, red blends, I can recommend the Big Easy, or Estrella Creek’s Stargazer, a smoky and jammy blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Petite Syrah. One of my all-time favorite red wines that we carry is the Farnese Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which has a nose reminiscent of smoked meats, yielding to a delicious, fruit-forward, yet well-balanced palate with a silky mouthfeel. The best Pinot Noir by far would have to be Chamisal.

And if you haven’t been to Roman Holiday in awhile, definitely check out the food menu—it has expanded to include pizzas, salads, petite paninis, and seasonal desserts.

If you’re dying for an outstanding cocktail from Roman Holiday on a day that I’m not there to make it for you, ask Ace to make you a Hot Berry Martini (he LOVES making those) or try my other favorites, the Basil Lime Gimlet or the Vanilla Sidecar. Btw, the Hot Berry Martini is easily one of the most laborious drinks to make. It requires muddling blackberries and jalapeños with Martin Miller Gin, Combier, and fresh lemon juice, and has so much pulp and seeds that it must be strained twice. Ace is totally going to kill me for recommending it! 😉 Just don’t order it on a busy Friday or Saturday night when he’s 10 cocktails deep. If Nicole is there, you should buy one for her. It’s her favorite cocktail.

And, finally, tell readers where they can hear you sing now, or in the very near future!

I plan to take a little time off to focus on recording my solo material and finishing up the country record I’ve been making out of the songs my dad wrote and left to me before he passed away. If you are interested in keeping up with all my musical endeavors, and me please feel free to visit my website at www.brittneywestover.com.

Vintage Eve Circa 10/2011: The Gift of Shai Wine

June 7, 2016 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Shawn Shai Halahmy is a pal, and like other winemaking pals, I forget what came first, a love for their wine that developed into a friendship, or if we became friends before I tried his wine. Actually, I’m going with the former…wine does make the heart grow fonder, eh?

Shai Cellars

08 Adome

Santa Ynez Valley

65% Syrah, 35 % Cabernet Sauvignon

14.6% alcohol

230 Cases

Starting from notes on the appearance, the cork was in good condition, clean, lots of legs danced on my glass, with a dark ruby color tipped in pale magenta. The aromas I detected ran the gamut with a blast of rich plums, cherry and a hint of raspberry through to black pepper and mild astringency. Once the wine hit my mouth I got beautiful, dark, balanced fruit, tannins, enough jamminess to spread on toast or serve with dark chocolate, steak or a burger. Ending with taste bud-loving spice on the back palate and a mid-length finish. Drink now, drink later, whatever, just drink it.

90 Eve Points…was my first thought but with 91 points from The Tasting Panel Magazine in their December 2010 issue, who am I to argue? Love the mag, love the wine, not a problem there. 91 Eve Loving Points.

So what’s next for Shawn:

Yes, exciting news from Shai Cellars…

In June of 2010 I bottled my 2^nd vintage of wines. Yes wine(s)… My 2009 Adome, same blend as the 08, though a different wine, and maybe better in some ways than the 08. I’m going to wait a bit to release this. It can use some time in the bottle. (225 cases)

And a new wine, my 09 Grenache. Only 100 cases produced of this delicious wine. Great fruit, great balance, and with the right food it’s like bliss in your mouth. Available now.

Contact me direct to get your hands on some Shai…

Shai Cellars

http://shaicellars.com

Vintage Eve Circa 10/2011: Hawk and Horse Vineyards Twofer…and Then Some (02 Justin Isosceles and 08 Foxen Sea Smoke Vineyard Pinot Noir!)

May 24, 2016 by evebushman 2 Comments

Getting caught up on unsolicited (wines sent that I didn’t expect) and solicited (new friends that have the gift – of wine) produced this hodgepodge of tasting notes:

Hawk and Horse

http://www.hawkandhorsevineyards.com

2007 Red Hills

Lake County

Cabernet Sauvignon

14.1% alcohol

The color was a clear, beautiful ruby with slight tawny edge in one ounce tasting, purple in full glass. The nose ran from dust, white pepper, wet wood, cherry, dark plumy fruit, smoke, red licorice…very aromatic. The taste was of mellow tannins, bright mature fruit, and a little dry/dusty. And for the finish, the fruit pleasantly gave way to tannins, medium length, I’d say drink now, or wait and see if more complexity comes with age. 86 Eve pts.

2006 Red Hills

Lake County

“Latigo” Cabernet Sauvignon

“Dessert wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon wine grapes”

16.55% alcohol

A burst of deep chocolate, blackberry and white pepper on the nose was followed by a taste of vanilla and raisins, a viscous mouthfeel, very much like a Port, and a short, but not unpleasant, finish.

Justin and Foxen

http://www.justinwine.com

http://www.foxenvineyard.com

Thanks to new wine friends Molly and Derek, and my husband for taking us all to Roy’s for dinner, we were the lucky recipients of two wines from the Molly-Derek collection. (Due to the lighting, and the distraction of the great meal and service, my notes are sans color notations – too dark – and a little frugal. But, rest assured, each was given its fair due of drinking.)

Justin 02 Isosceles

Paso Robles

93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4 % Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, unfiltered.

Aromas of dark, mature cherry was followed in slow succession…wait for it…of blackberry, black plum, mushrooms, and wet oak with a slight bit of eucalyptus. The taste was slightly dry, an almost dusty mouthfeel and cigar smoke that made you think of the age on the wine. But that was quickly brought to perfect balance with the slightly-sweet plum, bringing a conclusion filled with juicy jamminess.

Molly had wanted the wine decanted, but it was too late as we were halfway through the bottle. Then I remembered my Travel Vinturi in my purse, my favorite new gadget, and we tried the wine again. I then noted more mushroom, bell pepper, slightly drier, a little less fruit, more tannin, yet with nice black cherry noted by Molly. Drink now. 99 Frigging Eve pts.

08 Foxen Sea Smoke Vineyard Pinot Noir

Santa Rita Hills

Unfiltered.

Decanted 15-20 minutes. An aroma of deep fruit, mint, wet stone, anise, black pepper and black fruit followed by a taste of both the black fruit and black pepper pushing right up front, beautiful mouthfeel. Not a standard “bright cherry and stemmy” flavor that I usually note in Pinot Noirs, this Foxen was a bit of a surprise for me. And I was doubtful it was due to only 3 years in the Molly-Derek cellar… I’d say drink now, but save a bottle for next year, and the year after, and the year after that…

Visiting Greece, Via Ktima Gerovassiliou

April 29, 2016 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Cori Solomon, organizer of #LAWineWriters, recently arranged for our group to meet with Thrass Giantsidis of Greece’s renowned Ktima Gerovassillou all-estate winery. The plan: To boldly go where…wait…to be led through a tasting of his highly-awarded wines along with some small plates at Downtown LA’s Ledlow restaurant.

I did a little research on Ktima Gerovassiliou before the luncheon, and besides learning that they make a wide range of whites (including a Viognier) and reds (hoping to try the Syrah), the winemaker Vangelis Gerovassiliou has created a Wine Museum at the winery filled with all types of tools used in viticulture…including an impressive collection of corkscrews. I was starting to look forward to tasting and learning more.

Greek Wine Lesson

Giantsidis began by explaining a little about the range of climates in Greece. Some vineyards that are close to the sea are in the Mediterranean region (Ktima Gerovassiliou is in this group) while some regions are warm. The land “is mountainous” with 66,000k hectares growing vitis vinifera. However, there are more table grapes than wine grapes being cultivated. It’s just a small portion (3.9 million hectares) of the whole of Greece that is devoted to grape cultivation. And there are more than 300 species of their own native grapes made into wine. (Note: 2.5 acres is equal to 1 hectare.)

Winemaker Vangelis Gerovassiliou saved the Malagousia grape from extinction. It is known for its aromatics. 50% of this grape is in their Estate White blend.

Vangelis Gerovassiliou was with Greece’s Porto Carras for decades.

Domaine Gerovassiliou has 63 hectares of estate grapes.

These wines, a little costlier than other Greek imports, are a quality we may have not yet seen.

The estate is sustainable and all work is done by hand.

A majority of the Greek wineries use indigenous grapes.

All wines have received “lots of distinctions”, according to Giantsidis, and the entire portfolio is estate grown.

The average person visits historical sites such as Athens, however, the wines of Greece are not found in the normal tourist spots.

The North is more red producing while the South makes more white.

Greek Tasting (As usual my notes on aroma and flavor are divided by “;”)

2014 Estate White

Malagousia an Assyrtico

Limeade, pear, Meyer lemon, jasmine, steely; white peach, lemon-lime, lovely mouth-feel, medium acid. Wanted a chilled seafood salad with this. 90 Eve pts.

2014 100% Malagousia

White peach, pears in light syrup, pink grapefruit, reminds me of a Viognier on the nose, honey; mouthfeel, again a medium acid, more lemon, grapefruit, more Sauvignon Blanc on the palate. (This wine had some time in “seasoned oak” which meant that the barrel had been “seasoned” by being filled with wine before. What is also referred to as “neutral” oak. Both distinctions mean that the wine will not have any predominate oak characteristics.) 90 Eve pts.

2013 Fume Sauvignon Blanc

(As this had some time with oak that’s why the word “Fume” is used in its name.) Bruised golden delicious apples, honey, white honeysuckle flowers, toast; fruit cocktail, lemon hard candy, medium acid again and a nice mouthfeel, again. 89 Eve pts.

2014 Chardonnay

(most planted of the foreign varietals in Greece.) About 800 cases per year. Lemon butter, oak, perfumy, white pepper; toasted oak, cream, lemon. 88 Eve pts.

2010 Viognier

Color – golden yellow – that is indicative of some age. Can you say HONEY, wow, I sure could! Smells like a late harvest wine with cling peaches also on the nose; not as sweet on the palate as it is in the aroma, with citrus, tang, stainless steel, medium-high acid. 88 Eve pts.

2010 Estate Red Blend

Syrah, Merlot and Limnio

Dusty, black fruit, black cherry, mushroom, velvety, milk chocolate, pepper; nice tannin structure, my whole tongue wanted more, blueberry, blackberry. 90 Eve pts.

2008 Avaton

Limnio, Mavroudi and Mavrotragano

The wine’s name, Avaton, means “inaccessible and impossible to reach.” This was the first wine that they made with indigenous Greek wines. Also to know, the word Mavro means black. Stewed plums, dried cherry, clove, tri-color peppercorns, mulled wine, charred steak; dark and dry fruit, balance is dead on even with extra firm tannin, oak, same black fruit. Need charred steak to have with this. 90 Eve pts.

2008 Evangelo

Petite Sirah, 92%, the balance is Viognier. Malolactic fermentation, and some oak – 15 months. Gerovassillou explained that the Viognier stabilizes the color and makes it a “feminine wine” style. The whole barn is in your glass! It was rich, thick, earthy, gamey, minty, and with a hint of chocolate covered berries; more youthful on the palate than expected, red to black fruit, spice, tannic, dry. 92 pts.

2009 Late Harvest Malagousia

Caramel covered apple, peaches in heavy syrup, white pepper, Monet’s Garden; huge mouthfeel, lovely long finish, potpourri, and local honey. 91 Eve pts.

About Ktima Gerovassillou

From the website: Deep knowledge and use of up-to-date technology combined with more traditional and conventional wine-making methods lead to the production of high-quality wines with distinct micro-climate (terroir) characteristics. All Ktima Gerovassiliou wines are produced from grapes cultivated in the privately-owned vineyard. Every year the Gerovassiliou wines gain significant international distinctions for their high and consistent quality. 30% of Ktima’s production is exported to other European countries, the USA, Canada, Japan, Brazil, Australia and Singapore… The efforts of Vangelis Gerovassiliou and his partners’ along with the high and consistent quality of Gerovassiliou wines are recognized with European and global distinctions. Ktima Gerovassiliou is included in the 100 top wineries for six years, Vangelis Gerovassiliou is among the six best wine-producers worldwide and the Gerovassiliou wines receive every year very important distinctions.

http://www.gerovassiliou.gr/

http://www.gerovassiliou.gr/en/shop

http://www.gerovassiliou.gr/en/museum

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

The Elzer Cellar: Beyond the Myth (Vintage Beacon Circa 6/09)

June 24, 2014 by evebushman Leave a Comment

At this year’s Wine Classic, where once again wine chair Jeff Jacobson enlisted unheard of donations from the finest private cellars in Santa Clarita, my husband Eddie and I met Steve and Amy Elzer. A business card (mine) was extended, and in return, an invite (theirs) to see a cellar. (If you can’t wait to see what your retail shops are offering from their cellars scroll to the bottom.)

Steve and Amy have built a home for their two children in the hills of Valencia. Lured by the schools; they packed up their belongings in West LA and embraced Santa Clarita living. The house they chose had one fault: a patio door with a view right into their neighbor’s dining room. Instead of looking 30 feet into their neighbor’s home, Amy thought the small alcove created by the enclosed patio space was the perfect size to build a wine cellar for Steve’s growing collection.

But before we put on a sweater to pass through the glass doors of the custom-built temperature-controlled cellar; we linger for a moment in the large sunny kitchen. Amy has set out a few pairing foods including cheese, crackers, deli meats and nuts while Steve, though unasked but his guests were thrilled nonetheless, had also laid out a couple of…items.

“2004 Corra Napa Cabernet is just one of the wines that Celia Welch, a ‘gun for hire’ winemaker, is known for and this is her personal label,” Steve explains. “This 100% Cab, like some of her others wines, is primarily available to mailing list subscribers. (http://www.corrawines.com/wines.html)

Celia has been making great wine for years, but she really started getting a ton of press and a lot of attention after the debut of Scarecrow, a wine she also makes. Robert Parker gave that wine a 98 point score – what I think was the highest score ever for a debut vintage of a new wine project. No matter how long you have been creating wonderful wines, when you get a commanding score like that, a winemaker can go from ‘Zero to Hero’ virtually overnight.”

(Boutique wineries that only can produce a very limited number of cases, whether high or low-priced, use subscriber mailing lists and restaurant orders, to sell their wine. And, like waiting for a box seat at the Hollywood Bowl, the only way to ‘move up the list’ would normally be for someone to…well…move off the list. But, with the current recession, more spots are opening to the interested consumers.)

“I’ve learned to base my wine collecting choices on several factors. There was a time when I would chase high scoring wines and I would open them and they would not appeal to me. I am looking for quality wines that are not necessarily available at a local wine shop. With the Corra, I was following a winemaker I respect. Over the years, she has made wines for Staglin, DR Stephens, Cornerstone, Hollywood & Vine, and Keever, which I poured at the wine classic and people really loved. But it was the Scarecrow that really put Celia on the map,” Steve said.

“Scarecrow is one of the new true cult wines emerging out of Napa. It’s a special wine with special fruit. The vines were planted in the 40’s when the property was owned by J.J. Cohn, a legendary Hollywood executive who was involved in the production of The Wizard of Oz. J.J.’s grandson now owns the property and the name Scarecrow is a tribute to his late grandfather. They only produce between 700-800 cases, which is a very small production. (http://www.scarecrowwine.com/content/site.html )”

Other California winemakers that Elzer follows and collects include: Manfred Krankl from Sine Qua Non, Marc Aubert (Aubert, Bryant Family), Bob Levy (Harlan), Martha McClellan (Sloan), and Helen Turley (Marcassin) among others.

“I like to follow winemakers or great wine estates, but other ways to follow wine trends that I use are the online discussion groups on wine web sites like the (Robert) Parker Board, (http://www.erobertparker.com/info/boardintro.asp) wineberserkers.com, and West Coast Wine Network. I also will pay close attention to what producers are using fruit from vineyards I love, and sometimes I even follow the vineyard managers. There are people like David Abreu who are meticulous at farming and getting the best out of what the land can offer. I also like controversial winemakers who are making challenging wines: guys like Abe Schoener at Scholium Project. I poured one of his wines at the Classic and a lot of people really liked what he was doing with the wine,” said Elzer.

“People who are into wine on a serious level are either Hedonists or Analysts, meaning they are very cerebral…Sometimes over thinking wine and over analyzing the pleasure in the glass can get a little intense and off-putting, not to mention intimidating. I’m somewhere between a Hedonist and an Analyst. I’m comfortable with my palate, which has been gravitating more and more towards European wines.”

Elzer, who is a member of a tasting group that meets in Los Angeles once a month for the last 4 years, has made a number of wine friends since he began collecting in the early 1990s. One of the highlights of his wine social life was the night he hosted a special dinner at his home in Valencia where he and his guests tasted every vintage of Harlan ever produced. http://www.gangofpour.com/traub/2007/excess/index.html

“I had a small party, 12 guests, people I had met from my wine tasting group or through the Parker Board; Somehow Charles Banks, the former owner of Screaming Eagle, found out about what we were doing and he decided to join us. When that happened the night went from being just Harlan wines to a ‘cult cab-a-thon’ with something like 46 wines in all. These wines were the true ‘blue-chip’ estates of California and it was the most extraordinary night I could have ever imagined. It’s not a party unless someone is leaving tipsy in at toga and that is pretty much how the evening ended. Literally, with an art dealer friend of mine jumping into a toga and heading off in a cab!”

While Amy does not pretend to follow wines as closely as her husband, she has been completely supportive of and encourages his passion. “Steve is a true student of wine. He is an encyclopedia of knowledge when it comes to this stuff and he helps me navigate. Having wine with him enhances, or distracts, from life’s little moments.”

Not too much distraction for us – as Steve then opened a 2000 Chateau Monbousquet Grand Cru Bordeaux. A nice segue from our Corra California Cabernet, with the expected older nose and perfect mouthfeel, we were thrilled with the lingering flavors of all that our day had brought.

The Cellar

I didn’t bring a notepad into the cellar. I wedged myself in there only to see every wine I’ve ever loved, and, every wine we’ve ever heard about. A lovely room, with wine racked on 3 walls, some still nestled in their wooden boxes in every corner, splits stacked up against a mirrored wall…we were in awe.

I found myself patting each with my hand as I recognized old friends and sought out new ones: Sine Qua Non, Lafite Rothschild, Chateau Latour, Ausone, Colgin, Pride Cabernet, Joseph Phelps Insignia, Robert Mondavi, Harlan, Screaming Eagle, Dalla Valle Maya, Peter Michael, Switchback Ridge, Chateau Y’quem, Lynch Bages, Angelus, Pinchon Longueville, Gaja, and Sassicaia,, to name a few. Steve says “these are not trophies to me: they are meant to be opened and shared.” For everyday drinking pleasure, he will pop a cork on go-to labels like Kuleto, Beringer, Kosta Browne, Seasmoke, or a Bordeaux like Goulee.

Nestled in the back of the cellar is one of the first bottles he ever purchased, the Goosecross Aeros. It was at Goosecross Cellars where Steve first caught the wine bug. “I will never open that bottle. I doubt it’s still any good and it’s just a sentimental favorite.”

Elzer, who is a motion picture executive, regularly donates prized bottles from his collection to raise needed money for local charities, such as the Wine Classic, the Cal Arts Wine & Art Auction, and Neighborhood Legal Services of Los Angeles, to name a few. He is currently in the early stages of planning a wine event to benefit the Santa Clarita Valley Youth Project where he serves on the agency’s Board of Directors. “I want to take what I did with the Harlan/Screaming Eagle wine dinner and build on that idea for a fundraiser to benefit the SCV Youth Project, a critical youth services organization that helps so many kids and families here in our Valley. If I can pull off anything close to what I have in my head, it will truly be a night to remember.”

One Traveler’s Tale

April 17, 2014 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Lublin, Poland has been an important trading site since the early Middle Ages. Due to its economic prominence, the city has been attacked and sacked by Tatars, Ruthenes, Yotvingians, and Lithuanians. By the late 1200s, Lublin was under the rule of the Kingdom of Galicia-Volhyna and eventually by the 1400s absorbed into the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.

Today, Lublin remains a thriving commercial center that maintains its rich cultural heritage. This picturesque part of Poland has long been one of my favorite places to visit and conduct business. Lublin has long been renown for its vodka distilleries. Two of my favorite clients, Snow Leopard and V-One, produce their vodka at Lublin’s Polmos Distillery.

Recently, both Elena and I have been constantly traveling and I promised after this trip, we would take a break. She particularly likes Truskavets. This small town is in the foothills of Ukraine’s Carpathian Mountains. Famed for its spas and mineral waters, Truskavets is the ideal location to get away from it all. However, I have digressed. Let’s take a look at our first vodka, V-One.

Affectionately known as “the world’s most drinkable vodka,” Paul Kazub’s recipe just may prove that assertion to be true. Distilled from 100% Spelt grains, V-One is lightly scented with aromas of sweet creamy vanilla. The palate is medium bodied and exceptionally smooth, and with a pleasurable mouthfeel. Flavors of mineral, powdered sugar, and wheat toast add to its complexity. The finish is smooth, with virtually no burn. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $30.

Is it Spelt grain that makes this vodka so intriguing? If so, what exactly is Spelt grain? Similar to wheat in appearance, Spelt grain has a much tougher husk. This could be in fact why it produces a spirit that is nuttier and slightly sweeter than most wheat vodka. Spelt grains have been an important staple since the Bronze Age. However, by the Middle Ages, it had all but become a relict crop. Today it is only found in small pockets of central Europe, northern Spain, and selected plantings in the USA.

There are other factors that also make V-One such a special and highly regarded vodka. Crafted in small batches, it is also distilled five times, which ensures a notably clean finish. Since Polmos first opened its doors in 1906, they have managed to stay on the cutting edge of producing only the best in premium vodkas. To enhance their sophisticated distillery process, Polmos is renown for combining the most modern and up to date equipment, with Old World know how.

Twice in the past, I have reviewed Snow Leopard vodka. Please refer to: “Passion for Polish Vodka,” which Eve published on 5/21/12 and “Who Said Vodka Had to be Neutral in Flavor? “which was published on 1/24/13.

After a mutually lucrative day with my business associates at Polmos, I departed for the train station. Unfortunately, I was quick to learn that I had missed my connection. To make matters worse, there were no other trains departing to Lviv, Ukraine where I was to meet Elena. The next train traveling in the direction where I needed to be was in 30 minutes, and it was bound for the small Polish border town of Przemysi. I quickly bought a ticket and called Elena so she would not worry.

Upon arrival in Przemysi, I was disappointed to learn that the next train for Lviv wasn’t until 3:00 AM. To make matters worse, I was out of Polish Zloty. I had a wallet full of Euros, US Dollars, and Ukrainian Hryvnia, but no Polish currency, at least not enough to buy a ticket. American Express Platinum card to the rescue. Unfortunately, they did not take AMEX. Surveying the station, I promptly set out to see if any of my fellow travelers were willing to exchange Zloty for the currency of their choice. I only needed 75 Zloty, but unfortunately, no takers. Last resort … cab drivers. I went outside and was in luck. The second cabby that I approached was willing to make the exchange for Euros. I quickly whipped out my mobile phone and checked the day’s exchange rate.

After thanking the cabby, I sauntered back into the station, 80 Zloty in hand, and eager to buy a ticket. I forgot to factor in tax and service charges, but it seems that luck was now on my side. The price of the ticket was 79 Zloty and some change. I jokingly told the elderly lady behind the counter to keep the change. She chuckled lightly and reminded me that I had a long wait, and there was a charge if I needed to use the WC.

As I strode briskly into the main lobby, a young university student who was also wearing a New York Yankees baseball cap greeted me. He was quick to ask what the NY on our caps meant. Since mine was a special edition cap, I showed him the small banner stating that the Yankees had won 27 World Series Championships. I further went on to boast that the Yankees had dominated baseball over the years, and the team that won the second most championships was the St. Louis Cardinals. And they had won only 11 World Series titles. Obviously not a baseball fan because he did not seem to care much. What seemed to preoccupy his thoughts was the simple fact that the NY was for New York. He then asked me join his group, and to my delight, they were sharing a bottle of Pravda.

Pravda means “truth.” This rye-based vodka is definitely one of Poland’s most popular spirits. Rated as an ultra-lux vodka, Pravda boasts that it bests all the major brands in blind tastings.

Pravda vodka dates back to 1743. First distilled by royal decree of King Augustus lll, the spirit was hailed as the “jewel of vodkas.” (Today all bottles of Pravda are adorned with a beautiful blue carbuncle to commemorate its proud heritage). Since its inception, Pravda has been distilled in Carpathia’s pristine mountain district of Bielsko-Biala. For Poles, this is the heart of historical vodka production. Pravda is distilled in small batches from late harvest rye. The nose is lightly accented by a an array of citrus aromas. On the palate, Pravda is smooth and mellow, yet losing none of the complexity that is typical of rye vodkas. There is also a hint sweetness and citrus fruit flavors, followed by a pleasing minerality. Carpathia’s spring waters are known for their mineral content. I suspect that this adds to Pravda’s flavor. There is a slight, but not unpleasant burn on the finish. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $25.

Once my newfound friends boarded their train for Krakow, I settled back and reflected on the day’s events. I had not slept for 30 hours and I was tired. To my dismay, I fell asleep. When I awoke, I learned that I had missed my train. To add to my horror, there was not another train to Lviv for 24hours. Fortunately the vodka gods were with me. The old lady working the ticket counter gave me a refund and directions to the bus depot.

Fortunately the morning bus for Lviv was in a few hours. When I called Elena, I promised to drink plenty of coffee to stay awake. She was quick to recommend espresso. She then playfully toyed with me and said that due to tardiness, and the great worry I had caused her, I had to buy her a new pair of boots.

Once my bus arrived, I was excited to see it was a luxury Euroliner. As I handed the driver my ticket, he told me there were only 12 passengers, so sit anywhere I like. Once I boarded, I was shocked to see the bus was filled with various Polish goods. In reality, I was on board with a group of smugglers. To add to my dismay, the ring was comprised of elderly ladies.

Just as I was about to doze off, one of the babusya (Ukrainian for grandmother) shoved a bottle of vodka in my face, and invited me to join them for a drink. I was quick to say that it was not my custom to drink liquor in the morning. However, I had experienced a trifling night, and the vodka was a Ukrainian favorite, Nemiroff Lex.

The Lex is a premium rye vodka that has been aged in wood for 6 months. Next the spirit is required to undergo 11 stringent stages of purification. The nose is more aromatic than the typical rye vodka. Notes of Linden Blossom and oats prevail. There is also a whisper of lemon and citrus. All follow through on the palate, yet much more prevalent. There are also some welcome flavors of spice. The mouth feel is warm and pleasurable. The finish is detectably smooth. Nemiroff Lex is indeed a vodka to be sipped and enjoyed neat. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $35.

At length, we arrived at the Lviv bus depot. Patiently awaiting my arrival was Elena, and it was no surprise to see that she was already wearing a new pair of boots. The only remaining issue was the presence of vodka on my breath. I’m sure that would cost me at least another pair of shoes.

“But that my friends, is a different story … “

Vintage Beacon 2009: The Single Malt Scotch Tasting

February 11, 2014 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Getting ready hours ahead for a single malt Scotch tasting, I was pleased with how nice our dining room looked. The table glittered with blond and golden hues as the bottles were set out and anxious to be enjoyed.

Spring water was at each place setting for the “aroma dilute”. My husband Eddie had made sliders and several other cheeses, meats, nuts and chocolate for our version of charcuterie. A fresh box of Pepcid AC lay next to the pour-out bucket.

I wanted more than 6 Scotches, but relied on Eddie’s better judgment. Pouring roughly a ¾ shot of each might be more than the party could tolerate. He planned to watch for any problems and then add more Scotch to the tasting at the end.

I wondered who was going to be able to tell if everyone was all right; everyone was drinking.

Two of our guests had been bed-ridden with a nasty flu and I lingered, for about a minute, with the thought of how to make it up to them. A doggie bag of leftovers would never do. First because they would miss the lecture portion, second because I was way too gluttonous.

So, without further ado, this is what we laid out for the tasting: Littlemill 1990 16 year-old lowland (the only lowland selection) bottled by Signatory, Macallan Fine Oak 10 year-old, Glenmorangie 15 year-old, Lismore Speyside, Talisker Isle of Skye and the usual big finisher, Laphroig.

Maybe it was because it was the first Scotch for my anxious palate, or the fact that the color was so delicate, but I was enamored with the Littlemill. I noted a sharp nose straight and with the spring water dilute. Creamy mouthfeel, sweet taste…it was indeed mine. So much so that, for the first time in my drinking history, I used my note-taking pen and wrote my name right on the label. I didn’t want to forget (or share) this one. I looked it up later:

Signatory is an independent bottler of rare Single Malts that would otherwise be lost to the blenders. They select their casks from large lots of the highest quality scotch. Light filtration ensures the 86 proof malts maintain their natural flavors. They are “all natural,”no caramel color is added to change the taste of the Scotch. http://www.totalbeveragesolution.com/signatory/

Then we meandered through the Macallan 10 year old, adding (yes, we couldn’t wait) a 17 year old for comparison. My notes showed both to be light and mild. Moving on, all agreed that the forth Scotch, the Glenmorangie, was smoky and the most floral.

Next came the Lismore, from Speyside, my least favorite because it’s by the east coast facing the North Sea and showed a definite salty, musty, old shoe flavor. Eddie was impressed with it saying that it surpassed his expectations, if you want to give it a try.

The Talisker was not as strong as a true Islay Scotch. We paired that with a dark chocolate and it helped those of us unaccustomed or uncomfortable with the flavor. One guest remarked, “It’s not all rainbows and unicorns.”

Then came the traditional last Scotch in single malt tastings, the “angry one” carrying the most peat, Laphroig. The other female guest in attendance felt it was “oily”. We pulled one more angry Scotch from our liquor cabinet, Ardberg, aptly called “the skull and cross bones” by another drinker. We were officially done.

The guests were grateful to be given a chance to go back and drink their favorites. Except for my Littlemill. That had been swiftly hidden in the recesses of my personal cabinet…