PERLIS PICKS: LAW ESTATE WINES

July 22, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

For most of my wine drinking life I’ve espoused the belief that my favorite wine experiences are one-on-one situations with the winemaker, often of a fairly low-budget operation sharing his or her creations with me, sometimes while standing at opposite ends of a barrel or out in a vineyard. I’ve tended to avoid the high end fancy facilities where I’ve worried [sometimes justifiably] that the money went into the architecture and not the wine.

From LAW Estate Facebook page.

Law Estate Wines continues to shatter that belief on a regular basis.

We first tasted the Law wines at the Ojai Wine Festival a few years ago. Winery General Manager Oliver Esparham was pouring their first vintage and we – especially Karen – fell in love with the Law Wines. I still remember Karen rushing up to me and telling me “You need to try Law – especially the GSM blend!” She was right; the wines were great. I had no idea what this winery had in the works though.

Not too long thereafter, we found ourselves meeting once again with Oliver, this time at the under-construction winery in the soon-to-be-named Adelaida district of Paso Robles. It had now become pretty clear that this was going to be one of those fancy wineries. Yet, I couldn’t really complain, as the wines were definitely awesome.

Let’s look at how they got that way.

Don and Susie Law followed their passion for Rhone wines from their home in Colorado to Paso Robles, which is known for producing some of the best American Rhones. As geologists, they knew the right soil when they found it, and they built the winery and tasting room to match what they knew were going to be extremely high quality grapes coming from their estate vineyards. Add to the mix a true superstar winemaker in Scott Hawley as well as a group of some of the best winery employees you’ll find anywhere, and the outcome is no surprise.

Earlier this year, we had occasion to visit the winery and taste some of their current releases. [Note that tastings are by appointment and there is a $20 charge for tasting. Also note that the $20 charge is waived if you join the Allocation – and why wouldn’t you?]

We tasted the following…

Beguiling 2012 [92% Grenache, 8% Syrah]

Intrepid 2013 [100% Syrah]

Sagacious 2013 [37% Grenache, 34% Mourvedre, 29% Syrah]

Beyond Category 2013 [50% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Grenache, 15% Petite Sirah]

Never easy to pick a favorite here, as all the wines are truly delicious. Karen’s continues to be the Sagacious blend. I tend to lean toward the complex flavors of the Beyond Category but ultimately I’m a sucker for the Intrepid 100% Syrah.

A month or so later, we had the pleasure of attending LAW’s Black Label Release Dinner.

To explain a little, LAW has two sets of labels, White and Black. The White Label wines are released in the Fall and if you buy enough [12 bottles in total at least] you get the opportunity to purchase the Black Label wines when they are released early the next year. Now I haven’t noticed a huge qualitative difference between the two labels, at least for my palate; I’m just a big fan of all the LAW wines.

That is not to say you shouldn’t buy the Black Label wine too, as there is no reason not to buy all that Law has to offer. And, the perks are pretty good too, such as being able to attend this dinner [which filled up so quickly they had to add a second one].

Held in the barrel room, the menu for that evening was…

2013 The Nines [100% Grenache] paired with Porcini Mushroom Bisque [with Melted Leeks en Brioche, Dried Wild Blueberries, Chive Oil].

2013 Prima [100% Mourvedre] paired with Oak Grilled California Duck Breast [with Toasted Pearl Couscous, Fennel Confit, Hen of the Woods, Pomegranate Gastrique].

2013 First Tracks [40% Petit Verdot, 32% Syrah, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon] paired with Six Hour Braised Prime Beef Short Rib [with Truffle Polenta Gratin, Glazed Spinach, Heirloom Carrots, Syrah Bordelaise].

2013 Sagacious [57% Grenache, 34% Mourvedre, 29% Syrah] with Artisan Sheeps Milk Cheeses, Bacon Jam and Spiced Cherries.

Not surprisingly, everything was delicious and the wines and courses were perfectly paired to highlight the nuances of each. The big standout for me was the Prima with the duck, but that’s not really surprising given my fondness for both.

I almost forgot to mention that before dinner there was a social hour with appetizers and more great wine, including the debut of the 2015 Soph blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Clairette Blanche.

Lots of happy people that evening. At this kind of event, attendees quickly become friends. And the gentleman next to me said: “This is the best wine event I’ve ever attended.” [He was also happy to be sitting next to the “other Michael Perlis”, but that’s a story for another day.]

And speaking of people, it would be very easy for the Law owners and staff to match the fanciness of the winery. But there were no “airs” evident. The Laws are gracious and approachable, as is Scott Hawley. Over the last few years, I’ve gotten to know the aforementioned GM OIiver Esparham as well as Tasting Room Manager Adelaida Pitts and Sales and Marketing Manager Arnaud Fabre. This visit we got to chat with Cellar Manager Pedro Vazquez, whose enthusiasm is infectious. Without them, and the rest of the Law team, being who they are, the wines would probably still be great but the experience wouldn’t be what it is.

Law Estate Wines

3885 Peachy Canyon Road

Paso Robles, CA 93446

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Color Up Your Summer with Brazilian Wines

July 19, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

New York, NY – Attention, wine lovers: the Wines of Brazil have made their way to the U.S. and are ready to take the country by storm. Internationally celebrated for its soccer players and its Rio Carnival, Brazil is also home to a variety of flavorful wines that will delight American consumers in search of young and fresh wines, at great value for money.

Photo: The Drinks Wholesaler magazine

In a region known for its at times excessively powerful wines, Brazil stands out for its production of lighter, friendly and easy-drinking wines. Brazilian wines offer a surprising and high-quality alternative to your usual wines choices, being generally pressed from the varietals you love: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, both still or sparkling. Embodying the soul of the country, Brazilian wines are lively, aromatic and colorful, and will be the life of the party!

Brazilian Sparkling wines – the taste of celebrations

Shake up your habits and pop a Brazilian sparkling wine for your next festivities. Characterized by an exceptional acidity and freshness, they are ultimate crowd-pleasures. Many of the producers follow the méthode traditionnelle – the same as Champagne – Brazilian sparkling wines are mainly produced from Chardonnay, Italic Riesling, Pinot Noir and Muscat. Aromatic and vivacious, they can be enjoyed on their own as an aperitif, or with all kinds of every day food such as sushi and light salads.

Brazilian Red wines – the flavor of passion

Brazilian reds will delight every red wine lover: from fruity to earthier reds, the region is home to a palette of vibrant reds pressed mostly from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, which produce elegant and structured wines. With lower alcohol contents than similar New World wines (around 11-12.5%), they can be sipped during the day, without fears of headiness. The wines’ aromatic flavors combined with mild tannins make them a perfect addition to the dinner table: fresh and young, they will not overwhelm your meal’s flavors. Sip them with a BBQ-grilled meat to feel like a proper Brazilian enjoying a churrasco, the country’s iconic ember-grilled steak.

A look inside Brazil

There are six wine regions in Brazil, covering an almost 2,500-mile distance along the country’s eastern border. 90% of the wineries are in Rio Grande do Sul, the state located in the southernmost part of Brazil, bordering Uruguay. The state is also on the same latitude as Argentina and South Africa:

Serra Gaúcha – the leading region in terms of production, representing 85% of all wines produced in Brazil, it is recognized for its fruity reds and fine sparkling wines. The basaltic soil, humid climate and mild nights produce wines with a distinctive personality.
Campos de Cima da Serra – known for its aromatic whites, and elegant and sophisticated reds, the region enjoys moderate temperatures and consistent winds, which guarantee healthy vines.
Serra do Sudeste – celebrated for its low-yield vines and delicate wines with great minerality, this mountainous region is recognized as one of the most promising wine areas in Brazil.
Campanha – located in the south, bordering Uruguay and Argentina, the region is devoted to vinifera grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, but also Tannat and Tempranillo, and is recognized for its flavorful reds.
Planalto Catarinense – known for its high-altitude vineyards, Planalto Catarinense is celebrated for its fresh still and sparkling whites. The region is also developing an interesting organic and biodynamic wine production.
Vale Do São Francisco – the most northern vineyard in Brazil, its grapes have higher sugar levels, creating bold and fruity wines. The region is also known for its full-bodied reds, high-quality Moscato sparkling wines and exceptional yields with two harvests a year.

About Wines of Brasil

Wines of Brasil, is an organization that represents 34 wineries that produce wines in six appellations: Serra Gaúcha, Campos de Cima da Serra, Serra do Sudeste, Campanha, Planalto Catarinense, Vale Do São Francisco.

The main mission of the Wines of Brasil project is to promote the quality of Brazilian wines in the international market. To achieve this goal, its work starts within the wineries, providing producers with guidance on how to export, which results in promotional campaigns in different parts of the world, including the participation in wine fairs and direct contact with trade agents and opinion makers.

The Brazilian wineries produced for the export market over 2.2 million liters and commercialized to 36 countries from January to December 2016. The exports to the USA market have increased 34.64 % in 2016.

Visit www.winesofbrasil.com for more information, or follow Wines of Brasil on Instagram (@brazilianwines), Faceebok (Wines of Brasil) and Twitter (@WinesofBrasil)

Perlis Picks – MCV Wines

July 15, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

When Karen and I plan trips to Paso Robles Wine Country, I tend to wax nostalgic. Having been visiting wineries there for almost 20 years, I often look at the past through rose colored glasses [or is that rosé?].

Admittedly, I do kind of miss the days when Paso was our little secret to introduce to our friends. Trying to recreate the feel of those experiences is as much [or maybe even more] about the people that we know there as it is about the wine.

So, when we went back up to Paso Robles earlier this year, it may come as a surprise that we didn’t even start out tasting in Paso or the surrounding hills. Instead, we skipped the fairly short although borrrrring drive up the 5 and across the 46 and opted for the 101 to 1 route, with our destination to visit Matt Villard, owner/winemaker of MCV Wines.

The only other time we had visited Matt was in 2014. At that time, he was somewhat of a new kid on the block on Limestone Way in Paso Robles. Since then, he has moved his winery tasting room to the Morro Bay Embarcadero where he joins a few other wineries and wine bars in providing great wines to serious wine drinkers as well as the crowds that frequent Morro Bay at any given time.

Matt has great people working with him in the MCV tasting room. But the real treat is when Matt is there himself. He’s a lot of fun to hang out with and, should you be so inclined, is more than happy to “geek out” with you on the technical aspects of winemaking. And he knows his stuff, being justifiably proud of the abundance of 90+ scores he has received for his wines and for the other wineries for whom he is consulting winemaker.

Also, Matt old me that “we’re starting to do private tastings in the Paso Robles area for smaller groups. If anyone is interested they should call our tasting room.”

Some of the highlights of our tasting…

2015 ALV Sauvignon Blanc from the ONX vineyard, made in a “New Zealand” style and meant to be consumed very cold.

2013 Syrah – from the Glenrose Vineyard, this wine kind of blindsided me. At first, it just tasted like a really good Syrah. But as I continued to taste, the wine seemed to have a visceral effect on me. I don’t know if it triggered some memory that I couldn’t identify, but there was something about this wine that I really really liked, a lot.

2014 Red – an insane bargain at $21, delicious blend of Petite Sirah, Syrah, Grenache, Petit Verdot and Tannat.

Matt started MCV to focus on Petite Sirah, so we finished the tasting with two of those – the 2014 Petite Sirah and the 2014 Rosewynn Vineyard Petite Sirah. Matt explained that the latter was treated more like a Cabernet Sauvignon in the winemaking process while the former was more traditional. Both tasted excellent to me.

Matt also said that the 2016 vintage should be a benchmark vintage for Paso Robles. I am really looking forward to seeing what Matt and others do with the 2016 wines when they are released.

MCV Wines
845 Embarcadero Ste. H
Morro Bay, CA 93442

Michael Gill Cellars Wins Best Of Varietal, Best Of Class And Double Gold

July 2, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Paso Robles, Calif. (PRWEB) – Michael Gill Cellars has announced a number of wine awards for 2017, including Best of Varietal and Best of Class for both their 2016 vermentino and 2016 viognier. These same wines were also awarded gold medals along with the best of varietal and class at the Jerry Mead’s New World International Wine Competition (NWICW) held in late February in Ontario, CA.

2016 State Fair Medals, photo from Michal Gill Cellars Facebook page.

Along with the awards from the NWICW, Michael Gill Cellars 2014 syrah was awarded a gold at the 2017 Berlin International Wine Competition (BIWC) and five golds and one double gold for 2016 vermentino at the 2017 Florida State Fair Wine and Grape Grower’s Competition. The BIWC was held in March in Berlin, Germany. The Florida State Fair competition was also held earlier this year. Michael Gill Cellars was also named the “Best Paso Robles Winery” at the Berlin competition.

“I have received 17 Best of Class awards since I started entering wine competitions in mid-2013,” said owner and founder Michael Gill. “All of my wines have won gold medals and I just learned from a wine judge that only two wineries in the state can make that claim.” Gill has entered more wines in four more competitions for 2017, but the results from those competitions have not yet been announced.

Located in the hills of California’s Central Coast, Michael Gill Cellars is Paso Robles’ premier vineyard and tasting room. As a vintner, Gill is known for his ability to naturally cultivate luxurious wines unmatched in quality. “We work to keep our quality high,” said Gill. “It is about quality, not quantity.” Michael Gill Cellars tasting room, inspired by the history and beauty of illustrious French hunting lodges, is open to the public on weekends during season or any time by appointment. The $10 tasting fee is waived with bottle purchase and 10 percent discount is applied to any case purchase. The winery also offers periodic pairing dinners.

The wine club offers three shipments each year at a special member’s discount of 20 percent off the regular wine price. Some limited vintages are only available to wine club members.

Gill has owned the land since 1977 and planted syrah as his first grapes in 1998. Since planting those first vines, Gill has focused on nurturing the best from the vines and grapes. “We let the grapes talk to us. We do what the vines tell us to do to make them perform the best. We’re not trying to mass produce everything, get on a treadmill, and be married to budget and expectations. If one grape takes extra care, it gets extra care. We make the time,“ said Gill.

Michael Gill Cellars
4125 Peachy Canyon Road Paso Robles, CA 93446
(805) 239-1668

Vintage Eve Circa 8/2013: Tasting, and Learning, from Louie Lucas of Lucas and Lewellen Vineyards

June 20, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Walking into the Lucas and Lewellen Vineyards tasting room on the popular Copenhagen Drive in Solvang, I was pleased to have my winery appointment set up with Louie Lucas himself. Before we even sat down he started giving us some history of his winery.

Louie Lucas is on the far right, with his hands on his award-winning grapes. Photo from Facebook.

With 400 acres, and four different properties, Lucas and Lewellen grows 25 grape varietals. The tasting room had been open for 10 years – serving up to 25 wines. The planting began in 1970 and Lucas has been in the area for 40 years.

The current winemaker for the last five years is Megan McGrath Gates, who went to UC Davis for her wine credentials.

Wining Awards For Others

Lucas and Lewellen Vineyards has a long history of selling grapes to Napa wineries as well as more local winemakers. So, his grapes “win awards for others”. And he also makes wines for others, like actress Jane Seymour. Amongst his list is Chardonnay to Kendall Jackson, more goes to Jed Steele of Steele wines, Muscat to Napa’s Castello di Amorosa, Gewurztraminer to V. Sattui and Syrah to winemaking legend Heidi Barrett.

I asked Lucas if I could mention this in my article, he hesitated for two seconds and then agreed, saying, “Its too late for them to get me!”

Lucas’ father and grandfather were grape growers, and what they produced had to be perfect and blemish free, even the stems had to be cured. “You grow good grapes,” Lucas said. “And you get good wine.”

“Today we buy from catalogs when shopping for root stocks,” Lucas said in regards to how things have changed in 40 years. “So many more variations then we had before, and all are supposed to be resistant to disease, we shall see.”

Lucas and Lewellen has 1200 French oak barrels, and buys both new and used. They added 300 new barrels last year and are experimenting with hybrid barrels that are made from half American and half French oak.

Tasting

2011 Blanc de Noirs Brut Sparkling wine, 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay

Juicy fruit strawberry and peach on the nose, nice toast and jam on the palate. They don’t make the wine, instead they use a sparkling wine facility to make it, and only use their handpicked grapes. Outstanding.

Viognier 2012

A touch of stainless steel, followed by peach, kiwi, candied ginger and pear on the nose. Very balanced on the taste. Perfect.

2009 Chenin Blanc

White peaches, lime, green grapes, green grass. Great viscosity, mouth coating, not acidic.

Gewurztraminer 2011

Lemons, earth, peppermint on nose. Same gentle mouthfeel and low acid.

2011 Old Vine Moscato

2% residual sugar. Candied orange, wet wood, cloves.

2012 Pinot Noir Rose (100% Pinot)

Cherry, stems, rose petals…again, that nice balance and viscosity.

2009 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir, Estate

New clones since the “movie” (a nod to “Sideways”), and now making outstanding Pinot Noir wines from 10 different clones.

Good dark cherries, dry, green peppercorns.

2010 High Nine Pinot 667 clone, Santa Maria.

Smokey, charred, bright red fruit, long finish.

Malbec 2010

Blue and red fruit, dry, medium length. A favorite.

2007 Petit Verdot

Inky black color, blue fruit, blueberry jam rolled up in a pancake on the nose. Mature and tannic on the palate. Another fave.

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Cote del Sol (means “The Sun side”)

Balanced red and blue fruit and tannins, very good, long finish.

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Valley View

83 cab percent and all other Bordeaux grapes

Balanced, dusty, plums bell pepper.

2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 6

Dark purple, jammy, dry toast, plums.

http://www.llwine.com

Tasting Room: 1645 Copenhagen Dr., Solvang, CA 93463

All-New Wine Trolley Rolls Into the Santa Maria Valley

June 14, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

(Santa Maria, Calif.) – An exciting new development has made its way into the Santa Maria Valley. The Santa Maria Valley wine trolley will bring a whole new way of experiencing the wine region.

Santa Maria’s new Downtown Trolley will transport consumers between shopping center serving a holiday shuttle this year. The vehicle is equipped with a classic trolley bell.

The wine trolley will run Saturdays and Sundays, and run every 75 minutes from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. starting at Town Center West. The wine trolley will also run one additional route from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m., but will exclude Cottonwood Canyon and Presqu’ile wineries. Stops will include:

Town Center West near the pedestrian bridge (downtown Santa Maria on S. Broadway)
Costa de Oro Winery
Cottonwood Canyon Vineyard & Winery
Presqu’ile Winery
Old Town Orcutt – Old Town Market
Old Town Orcutt – Rooney’s Irish Pub

The wine trolley runs from May – September (subject to change).

The cost is $10 per person in advance, and $15 per person at the Trolley (transportation only), and is step on, step off, at your convenience. Tickets can be purchased at Ca’ Del Grevino Wine & Café Bar, Core Winery, Costa de Oro Winery, Cottonwood Canyon Winery, Nagy Wine Tasting Room, Old Town Market and the Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce Visitor & Convention Bureau. Check the Santa Maria Valley website for pick-up times and locations.

“We are absolutely thrilled about providing our visitors a new way to experience the gorgeous scenery of the Santa Maria Valley while allowing them to stop at many different locations and attractions,” said Glenn Morris, president and chief executive officer of the Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce and Visitor and Convention Bureau. “It is another fantastic reason to explore this hidden gem of an area and enjoy what we locals get to experience every day.”

The Central Coast’s most historic wine lives in the Santa Maria Valley. The area has the oldest appellation in the area and nearly two centuries of experience in growing grapes. The Santa Maria Valley is one of the most agriculturally diverse regions in the U.S. with a wealth of fruits and vegetables grown on the valley floor and vineyards hugging the hillsides. It’s a place where flavor runs rampant and taste buds can indulge because what they serve is grown, cooked and corked right here. The Santa Maria Valley has one of California’s longest growing seasons and a truly rare transverse geography resulting in the development of complex, flavorful and balanced grapes. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah are our specialties. These are composed of well-drained soils that also contribute to exceptional fruit intensity and flavor concentration.

The Santa Maria Valley is a recognized American Viticultural Area (AVA) within Santa Barbara County; the AVA encompasses one of the top wine regions in the world. The Travel Channel named the Santa Maria Valley The New Top 10 Cities for Wine Snobs.

For more information, please visit santamariavalley.com.

About Santa Maria Valley:

Serving the greater Santa Maria Valley in the heart of California’s Central Coast, the Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce and Visitor & Convention Bureau is a nonprofit association that facilitates local tourism and provides information on the region’s many attractions and visitor services. Famed for its fine wines, natural wonders, agricultural heritage and flavorful barbecue, the Santa Maria Valley offers a broad range of cultural, sporting and historical experiences. For details on Santa Maria Valley lodging, wine tasting, travel deals and e-newsletter alerts, visit santamariavalley.com or call (800) 331-3779.

Perlis Picks: Limerick Lane

June 3, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

Limerick Lane, while it has been around for a long time, really burst onto the scene when Jake Bilbro acquired the property in 2011 from the Collins Family. The story of the timing of the escrow closing coinciding with bringing in harvest and then the destemmer breaking down is legendary enough that the annual Limerick Lane Hail Mary Syrah is named after it.

Jake Bilbro of Limerick Lane Cellars.

Bursting on the scene is what happened though, with immediate recognition from major wine publications that continue to happen, maybe even at an accelerated rate. Not unexpectedly though, as making great wine seems to run in Jake’s family. Starting with Marietta Cellars, which Jake’s dad Chris named after his great aunt, Jake and his brother Scot have long worked with their father to make delicious affordable wines that everyone can enjoy, growing the winery to 100,000 cases.

[Jake’s other brother Sam, who also worked with father Chris, owns Idlewild Wines, devoted to Italian varietals – I am looking forward to visiting during my next trip to the area. Yet another brother, Lucas, did not get bitten by the wine bug and pursues his own passion as a ballet dancer.]

When Karen and I last visited with Jake, there were not many wines to taste. Success will do that, especially when you are a small winery of only about 4,000 cases. I asked Jake if he planned to expand production given the demand for the Limerick Lane wines, especially with his involvement in last year’s Historic Vineyard Society event and his obvious connection to the great vineyards the organization works to protect. Jake respond that he greatly respects the work that people like Mike Officer of Carlisle and Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock are doing with regard to preserving and sourcing from California great old vineyards. However, notwithstanding the fact that these guys all sell a certain amount of grapes to each other, showcasing the special nature of the Limerick Lane vineyard and the wines it produces is his driving passion and that will be the focus of his time, at least for the foreseeable future.

The vineyards actually consists of fourteen blocks, the oldest dating back to 1910. The Zinfandel blocks are true field blends that also include Alicante Bouschet, Peloursin, Negrette, Mourvedre, Carignane, Syrah and Petite Sirah.

The Russian River Valley sprawls over a large area, and Limerick Lane is at the Northeast corner of it, with hills providing southern and western exposure. The soil is clay and rock, with the clay holding water and the rock providing space for the vines to dig deep. Cool nights and foggy mornings keep the acidity high and the wines vibrant while the warm afternoons allow the development of intense flavors.

Initially planted by the Del Fava family, the property was later purchased by the Collins Brothers in the 1970s. When Mike Collins was ready to sell, he wanted the property to be in good hands, which is why he approached Jake Bilbro. Escrow closed just the day before harvest in 2011. And, to complicate matters, as harvest was wrapping up a few weeks later, the winery’s destemmer broke, with 7 tons of Syrah still to crush. With rain on the way, Jake threw a “Hail Mary” and dumped the grapes, stems attached, into two open top fermenters and hoped for the best.

Personally, I love the complexity that stem inclusion can bring, especially to Syrah. And the Hail Mary bottlings from Limerick Lane live up to this trait. From that year on, Jake has made a Syrah labeled Hail Mary to pay homage to that first vintage. We got to taste the 2014 during our visit and it was great as always.

We also got to taste a few other wines during our visit…

2014 Russian River Zinfandel – from the original vines planted over a hundred years ago. Not your ordinary Zin, the field blend aspect makes this is a complex delicious wine.

2014 Syrah Grenache – it was the 2011 version of this that I raved about along with the RR Zin when I attended Sonoma In The City back a couple of years ago. This continued that tradition.

1910 Block Zin [2014] – You’ll rarely see specific tasting notes from me, but in this case it was just too obvious; it was just like fresh blueberries! Wonderful wine!

2014 Rocky Knoll Zinfandel – another field blend, with Mourvedre and Petite Sirah that give this wine wonderful structure.

These wines get very high scores from the wine publications. Production is small and the wines are very hard to find outside of the tasting room or the mailing list.

I asked Jake what he would like people to know about Limerick Lane. This would have been a perfect opportunity to talk about their great wines and brag about all their great scores and accolades. Instead, he said “Tell them that we’re really nice people. We’re small so we can’t have a lot of people stop by all at once so visitors have to make appointments. But we really do want to see them.”

Go see them. There should be new releases to taste, but don’t wait too long.

Limerick Lane

1023 Limerick Lane
Healdsburg, CA 95448

See photos of our visit to Limerick Lane and others from our trip here: Sonoma County Series.

July 2013 Vintage Eve: Ojai Vineyard paired with Salt Creek Grille, Fundraiser for Henry Mayo Hospital

May 30, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

I expected a nice dinner, fun company and good wine, which I got, but at the HMNMH Foundation fundraiser I also had some interesting one-on-one time with Ojai Vineyard’s assistant winemaker Fabien Castel.

But first we must start with some hand passed appetizers – marinated tuna and red potatoes – paired with a bright and cheery 2012 rosé that cooled off the guests as they entered and mingled in the private Salt Creek Grille patio.

I got to say hello to Marlee Lauffer, Wendy Whitehead, Jason and April Price, Jill Friedman, Tim and Jenny Ketchepaw, Charlie Borreson, Julia Vose and Jay Cappilla, Diana Vose, Bob and Margo Hudson, Robert Herring, Cindy Tompkins, Jennifer Chadwick, Chef Tamra Levine and Greg Amsler.

Then, settling us down to our tables, Wendy Whitehead, the president of the Guild, thanked the board, Salt Creek Grille and the guests before introducing Castel.

Winemaker Fabien Castel

Castel is French, and his only experience with wine was that he had drank it. Then he met Ojai Vineyards’ winemaker Adam Tolmach and began as his apprentice.

Castel talked about prohibition, how wine had to then be reintroduced, the consequence of that down period and resurgence is what you see today. “Everybody in America is into wine and into learning.” Castel said. They make 20 wines every year but have 150 different bottlings offered at the tasting room. (See my notes below on the 1991 Pinot we got to have!)

“In older wines what I want you to get is that wine is unlike any other product,” Castel said, “Age ability makes it an almost mythical drink. It can stay in cellars and not ever be wasted.”

“To me it’s about sitting down (with wine) and being together with friends and eating. Notice how it interacts with the food. And tonight is about fun, and how wine enhances the experience.”

“What’s not really talked about is that older wines, wine in general, are all different in taste and different in effect. And it was used as a medication, to cleanse wounds, back in the Middle Ages. Fermentation itself is magical in creating a product that helps our digestion and lifts our spirits.”

Castel produced his first vintage in 2001. “When making wine you are reminded of the time it takes to make the wine, even a change in equipment changes aesthetic of the wine.

Winemakers want another voice; a literary voice of America, and that’s what I’m trying to find. We are looking for the next brilliant writer. With wine writers…there isn’t this greatness that has transpired yet. We need a more emotional voice. Writing about wine is not that linear, as a sense of smell and taste is not scientific, so why describe wines in a predictable, practical, one-dimensional way?”

Tonight Castel said he was met by very interested people; a wide diversity of how people approach wine, and (pleasantly) very unpredictable.

“I hear the sound bytes of culture, but reality is more complex and doesn’t fit the sound bites. We have to take the time to taste all over the world and gain worldwide knowledge.”

Back to the Wine and the Dinner

Executive Chef Ignacio Munoz and his staff cooked all of the dishes and Catering Director Tamra Levine designed the pairing menu.

After the appetizers the guests enjoyed a ‘10 Chardonnay with a roasted beet salad; the Chardonnay, similar in taste to a Sauvignon Blanc but with more balance and less acidity, was a nice complement to the tangerine cream dressing that Chef Tamra had designed.

The ‘10 Pinot Noir was excellent with the salmon and steak course – and because I wanted to save the ‘08 Syrah for the decadent chocolate soufflé dessert.

By 7:30 p.m. the sun had set, the air had cooled and the conversation swelled. Most guests revisited the wines we had been served while chatting. Then we got a big surprise as a magnum of cellared Pinot Noir made its rounds.

A ‘91 Pinot, that we were warned had a distinct barnyard nose, I couldn’t wait to get my hands on. The manure aromas before and after tasting, blew off in a few minutes of swirling in my glass. It was totally amazing: dry, mature fruit, pepper, 2011 port notes…how was that possible? Those at my table, when I mentioned port could both smell and taste it. Why 2011? Well, only because of the ’11 Vintage port tasting I had attended a few weeks ago had jaded me. It had lingered on my palate as long as this Pinot Noir, from Ojai California, did.

As we neared the end of the evening Salt Creek Grille owner Greg Amsler came out and thanked his chefs and staff. And yes, there was applause.

From Chef Tamra Levine came this inspired menu

Rose with Passed Appetizer

Nicoise Canapés…Marinated Tuna/Haricot Verts/Baby Red Potatoes

Nicoise Olive Aioli

Chardonnay –First Course

Vari-Colored Roasted Beet Salad with Romaine/Spring Vegetables/

Tangerine Cream Dressing

Pinot Noir /Syrah Course

Wood-Grilled Fennel Crusted Salmon

Fireside Cocoa Rub Steak/ Syrah-Cherry Sauce/

Garlic-Rosemary Roasted Potatoes/Catalan Spinach

Dessert Course

Petite Chocolate Soufflé/Ganache Drizzle

The Henry Mayo Newhall Memorial Health Foundation

From the website: http://henrymayogiving.com/

Established in 1984, the Henry Mayo Newhall Memorial Health Foundation strives to increase community awareness of Henry Mayo Newhall Memorial Hospital, and raise vital funds for expanding services and acquiring new technology to bolster the level of care already available at the Hospital. The Foundation has raised more than $50 million to give the residents of our community access to exceptional medical care.

Perlis Picks: Elevating Zinfandel 2017

May 27, 2017 by Michael Perlis 1 Comment

A few days prior to attending Ian Blackburn’s wineLA Elevating Zinfandel event with my wife Karen, I happened across a video that had been posted on Facebook by ZAP [Zinfandel Advocates and Producers – the organization “dedicated to advancing public knowledge of and appreciation for American Zinfandel and its unique place in our culture and history”] featuring Joel Peterson, founder of Ravenswood winery and often called “the Godfather of Zinfandel.” Joel really gave a great explanation of why Zinfandel is considered America’s Heritage grape, given that it truly found its greatness here in California versus, for example, Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux and Pinot Noir in Burgundy.

This greatness was evident at Elevating Zinfandel, where more than a dozen of California’s best producers of Zinfandel showed up to La Brea Bakery to pour their wines for a group of very appreciative tasters.

VIP attendees got to start their tasting an hour early as well as getting an opportunity to taste some special wines reserved just for them. [Obligatory note – when a VIP option is available, always go for it!]

The wineries pouring:

Beekeeper Vineyards

Bedrock Wine Co

Bella Vineyards

Robert Biale Vineyards

Brown Estate

Carol Shelton Wines

Gamba Vineyards and Winery

J Dusi Wines

Mauritson Wines

Ottimino

Peter Franus Wine Co

Quivera Vineyards

Seghesio Family Vineyards

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards

There were absolutely no losers here. Every winery on this list was pouring some outstanding Zinfandels. I could easily end this article here by just saying you should go buy wines from any of these producers and you will be happy. But, that would make for a pretty short article. So, let me expand on some wines that really stood out for me.

When people in Southern California think about Zin, especially those of us in Northern LA County, Paso Robles may come to mind more than any other region. At this tasting, Paso was represented by J Dusi. I knew that Janell Dusi would be up to this task, having made wine from her family’s Dante Dusi vineyard for about 10 years now. The Dusi Vineyard is one of my favorites anywhere for Zinfandel [not just Paso], so I was happy when Janell started making a small amount of wine from the family property, later expanding into other varietals as well. The 2014 Dante Dusi Vineyard Zinfandel and the 2014 Escandalosa blend of Zinfandel, Syrah and Mourvedre were two of my favorite wines of the evening.

The rest of the wineries were based farther North – in Napa Valley and Sonoma County. Since people tend to think of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and Sonoma Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, I thought it was great that the Zinfandels from these areas were being highlighted. Here are few of our favorites…

Bedrock Wine Co. & Under The Wire – winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson [son of the aforementioned Joel Peterson], along with partner Chris Cottrell, has been making wine since he was 5-years old [although he started out with Pinot just to piss off his dad]. The 2013 Under The Wire Bedrock Vineyard Sparkling Old Vine Zinfandel was stellar, and the two 2015 Heritage [historic vineyards – field blends] wines being poured – the Evangelho [Contra Costa County] and Pagani [Sonoma Valley] were great examples of what I think Morgan does best.

Ian Blackburn’s Beekeeper Cellars has been getting well deserved rave reviews. Based in Dry Creek Valley, my favorite was the 2014 Secret Stones, Madrone Spring Vineyard, Rockpile, Sonoma County. Not surprising – Rockpile is a favorite AVA of ours; more wines from there will appear later in this article.

Another Dry Creek Valley winery, Bella Vineyards, impressed us with their Westphall, Rockpile, Sonoma County 2013.

We first tasted Brown Estate Vineyards Zinfandel several years ago at a restaurant in Las Vegas called Rosemary’s. We ended up ordering a second bottle, it was so good. Sadly, Rosemary’s is gone but Brown Estate is still making great wine in Napa Valley, especially for us the Napa Valley, Chiles Valley District 2015.

Not sure where to begin with Carol Shelton Wines. We were just really impressed with her whole lineup. Based in Santa Rosa, she sources from various places. Nice of her to share a 2014 Carignane [loved that she snuck that one in] along with her Zins. And a big shout out for making a Zin from Southern California’s Cucamonga Valley.

When I first tasted the Zins from Gamba Vineyard and Winery many years ago, they seemed too big, even for me. I’m happy to report that they are doing it right. Luscious lip-smacking wines across the board from this Windsor based winery.

You can’t really talk about Dry Creek Valley, especially Rockpile, without mentioning Mauritson Wines. Clay Mauritson was pouring a few wines – favorite by a nose was the Rockpile Ridge Vineyard.

Ottimino is a new winery to me. Really cool to taste a 2001 Zin from them as well as their current releases. Based in Sebastopol in Sonoma County, the 2014 Ottimino Estate Russian River Valley Zin was great.

Robert Biale Vineyards – an old favorite of ours. I did not make it back to their table after the VIP portion of the event, but the 2009 Black Chicken Zinfandel that winemaker Tres Goetting had poured me at that time was excellent.

Turley Wine Cellars – while many people associate Turley with Paso, and rightfully so, the winery is actually headquartered in Napa Valley. Christina Turley was on hand to pour a few of the winery’s delicious Zins. I’ve made no secret of how much I like this winery. This time, the 2015 Duarte Contra Costa County earned top marks for me.

I apologize for the wineries I missed mentioning. As I said, all of the wineries represented are worthy of your attention.

Big thank you to La Brea Bakery for hosting the event and serving some delicious food.

Thanks to Ian Blackburn and his great staff at wineLA for putting on another great wine tasting. Check out his website and sign up so you don’t miss anything.

Perlis Picks: 2nd annual Masters of Taste

May 20, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Unlike some sports, such as baseball, somewhat inclement weather does not keep football players off the field. This is as true at the Pasadena Rose Bowl as it is anywhere else.

And like football players, attendees of the 2^nd annual Masters of Taste did not let a little rain keep them off the Rose Bowl field.

With once again all proceeds [expected to be over half a million dollars] raised by the event going to benefit Union Station Homeless Services, a wide variety of Food, Beverage and Sweets Masters were on hand to satisfy the intrepid attendees who braved the overcast skies for a great cause.

Eve has already shared her reporting of the event here so I won’t fill up this article with a list of participants.

While I wandered the event, my wonderful wife Karen kept showing up with some great food to keep me going. Here are her comments about the food…

Beef Tataki from Alexander’s Steakhouse of Pasadena: One of Michael’s favorites

Pork Belly Ramen by Ramen Tatsunoya: Extremely satisfying.

Handmade Mushroom Stuffed Pasta in Red Pepper Sauce by Celestino’s of Pasadena: I enjoyed this immensely. A great combination of flavors

Oxtail Dumplings from Bone Kettle: They melted in your mouth, absolutely delicious.

Hache LA: Angus burger sliders gave Michael and me the energy to make it around the Rose Bowl.

Spire Works of Eagle Rock and Westwood: Beef rice bowls were scrumptious.

Mama Lion: Uni appetizers were amazing.

Momed: Lamb shwarama sandwiches were extremely flavorful.

And here are a few standouts for me in the wine and beer category…

Ascension Cellars – this Paso Robles based winery continues to shine. I focused on the new releases at their table – the 2016 Siren Rose was very tasty; the 2015 Silver Blanc blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, Chardonnay and Viognier was unusual and delicious. The 2014 Mayhem Syrah [with a little Petit Verdot and also a small amount of Roussanne – instead of the traditional Viognier] was outstanding.

tercero wines – okay, I did not actually taste Larry Schaffer’s wines this time. He was pouring in the section for sponsors only. I did reach over and shake his hand and he was going to sneak me some wine over the fence when he was finished pouring for the sponsor who had come over to his table – you know, for reporting purposes. But, someone [and you know who you are] told me that there was also a tercero booth in the main area. So, I left in search of that booth, but I had been given misinformation. I do taste Larry’s wine often [actually very recently] and I can tell you they are worth seeking out.

Iron Triangle Brewing Co. – located in the growing and trendy Los Angeles arts district. The Dark Ale is well worth a trip to their taproom.

San Fernando Brewing Co. – loved the red ale. For our Santa Clarita Valley readers, this is an especially short trip to the taproom. You should definitely check them out.

As I had mentioned, now that we are actually experiencing some weather in Southern California, there was a threat of rain that afternoon. The cloud cover kept things cool and when there was one cloudburst while we were in attendance, it actually served to make things more fun, seeming to bring people closer together.

If you were there, what did you do when the rain started?

For us, we just happened to be visiting our friends at Golden Star Vineyards, Lee, Helen and Heather Williams. And when the sky opened up briefly, we just joined them under their tent and took advantage of the opportunity to taste more of their wines. Really loved their Chardonnay, the Viognier [in a blue bottle, no less] and the rose of Tempranillo. A real treat was a barrel sample of 2015 Syrah – aged in 100% new American oak, I was concerned that the oak might overpower the wine, but the fruit shone through. And their signature Purple Haze zinfandel-based red blend is always a favorite and was a great way to wrap up our day as well.

See you next year, rain or shine!