Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. MASTER CLASS

by

Wine education is always a good thing, and when you have the opportunity to attend a class led by Tim Gaiser, renowned Master Sommelier and wine educator – even better. With only somewhat over 200 people in the world having obtained this designation, Tim’s vast wine knowledge and entertaining speaking style always make his presentations must-attends.

Master Sommelier Tim Gaiser, Food and Beverage Magazine

Master Sommelier Tim Gaiser, Food and Beverage Magazine

Taking classes outside of my comfort zone is also rewarding. My focus and small amount of expertise is regarding certain areas of California wine. I’ve often felt that should I not have this as my area of interest that I’d like to expand my knowledge of Italian wines. Whenever I am exposed to wines from Italy, I find the flavors right up my alley – but there is an extraordinary amount to learn, both in terms of history and grape varieties.

Fortunately, Tim Gaiser’s favorite wine region apparently is Italy, so I was in the right place.

In this case, Karen and I had the opportunity to attend a MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. MASTER CLASS at Mr. C’s in Beverly Hills, put on by IEEM (International Event & Exhibition Management), led by Mr. Gaiser with wine samples and information provided by representatives of wineries of the region.

From the seminar brochure:

Moscato d’Asti is one of the most renowned and highly regarded Italian sweet wines, produced in the Piedmont region. Characterized by exceptionally high quality and surprisingly simple production methods, Moscato d’Asti is a very natural agricultural product. It retains the intense, musky aroma of the grapes from which it is made, Moscato Bianco. A sip brings to the palate special notes that remind one of wisteria, lime, peach and apricot, along with hints of sage, lemon and orange blossoms. The low alcohol content of Moscato d’Asti (about 5% by volume) makes it ideal for everyone, and particularly appropriate for holiday celebrations, birthdays and weddings.

If Moscato d’Asti is an extraordinary wine, part of the credit goes to the Consortium for the Promotion of Asti, an institution which has protected and promoted both this wine and Asti Spumante all over the world since 1932. The Consortium sponsors research through specific scientific studies and through the application of technological innovations to improve the production process. In addition, it conducts quality controls along the entire production chain and ensures that the Consortium’s seal, which depicts the patron saint of Asti, Saint Secundus on horseback, is not improperly used.

Wines we tasted, all from the 2016 vintage…

Winery: MICHELE CHIARLO

Name of wine: NIVOLE

Vineyard location: Canelli (Piedmont)

 

Winery: SARACCO

Name of wine: MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.P.

Vineyard location: In the village of Castiglione Tinella.

 

Winery: COPPO

Name of wine: MONCALVINA

Vineyard location: Canelli (Piedmont)

 

Winery: MARENCO VINI

Name of wine: SCRAPONA

Vineyard location: Strevi.

 

Winery: VIGNAIOLI DI SANTO STEFANO – CERETTO

Name of wine: MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G.

Vineyard location: Santo Stefano Belbo, Canelli, Calosso.

 

Winery: CAUDRINA

Name of wine: LA CAUDRINA

Vineyard location: Castiglione Tinella.

 

(I apologize for any typographical errors.)

Moscato Bianco is considered the “original muscat” with seven other muscats that descended from this grape.

The vineyard are on steep hillsides, so hand harvesting is necessary. These dry-farmed vineyards are spread over 24,000 acres – this area is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The harvested grapes are pressed and the juice is typically stored in stainless steel. The fermentation, and the bubbles, are natural processes. The juice can be kept cold with no fermentation until the need a new batch arrives, so there may be multiple fermentations during a year.

All the wines were tasty. To me, the differences between them were very slight, perhaps due to my Zin-jaded palate. Great notes of stone fruits and citrus, along with floral aromatics, were present. Low alcohol [5% or so] and a little sweetness make these wines great for dessert, an aperitif or even an afternoon quaff. They have a creamy quality when young, but as they age over a few years develop more mineral characteristics. Prices are really reasonable — $15 to $25 or so, so definitely worth buying a few to experiment with.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Vintage Eve 12/11: Mixologist Oscar Takahashi: Craft Cocktails and Wine

by

I met Oscar when he offered his bartending talents to benefit the recent Speed Rack competition in LA (Here is the link for that article and a 9 second video of Oscar!) and I noticed him for several reasons. First, he seemed to be the only male bartender shaking up drinks in a pink bandana like the contestants, second, I sipped one of his concoctions and found his skills to be the best of the day, and lastly, for his engaging personality and enthusiasm.

USBG-logo-890x395_c

So, of course I friended him on Facebook, and invited him into the Eve Wine 101 group there. This was his first comment on the group’s page:

“Happy to be a part of this group as an enthusiast – but seeking more knowledge to be a sommelier to go hand in hand with my cocktails. Nice to meet you all. We’ll have to get together sometime to talk about craft cocktails and proper utilization of wine in them, looking forward to it!”

That got me to ask Oscar to tell me more about himself and about his craft cocktails with wine.

E101: Tell me about wine in cocktails, any projects you have going, and can you give readers at least one of your own recipes?

OT: We are seeing more leeway into wines, fortified wines, and wine based aperitifs in cocktails. Take a look at my American Beauty in my cocktails folder and take Audrey Saunder’s 50-50 or go to Alpenz.com.

Eric Seed is a friend of mine and we are always talking about raising the guests experience by having them enjoy different cocktails at different parts of their meal and pairing them as well.

Right now I’m working on a project and new concept here in San Diego. It will be a high-end pacific rim fusion cuisine based lounge and restaurant with pairings with everything from wine, spirits, and even cocktails and molecular mixology.

Here’s a great recipe for this time of the season to awaken the palate but at the same time can also be used during and after dinner with differing proportions:

Silver Sangaree

1 1/2oz Paumanok Cabernet Franc
3/4oz fresh lemon juice
1/2oz Dow’s Ruby Port
1/2oz Clove Syrup (24oz simple syrup 1 1/2oz whole cloves, boil the syrup and add the cloves as it simmers and infuse for about 15 mins. then fine strain and refrigerate)
4 Kirsh Brandied Cherries (Luxardo Aged Cherries work well too)
1 egg white

Dry shake (to emulsify egg) all the ingredients except the syrup and cherries. Muddle the cherries and syrup then combine the two mixtures in the shaker and shake with ice. Strain over a chilled wine glass (in the fridge or chiller). Garnish with grated Nutmeg. Cheers!

I also have a pumpkin spiced dram that I came up with over weeks and weeks of fine tuning, it works well instead of the clove syrup for a more earthy slightly sweeter and aromatic flavor for an after dinner drink, of course.

E101: You mentioned your cocktails folder, where would readers find that?

OT: Well, I was actually referring to my facebook and some humble offerings. I do have a website (mindfulmixology.com) however at this time it is going under construction for launch later this month. As a consultant I have many recipes and techniques according to what fits my guests’ and clients’ needs. I feel that it is an art that should be enjoyed by everyone so I like to include recipes, methods, and techniques. There are many gifted individuals out there with wonderful recipes and techniques but I feel that it has to serve a purpose.

When I craft a cocktail I am mindful of my guests and make something that would create an experience for them, I don’t necessarily make what I think is good based on my own tastes. If this was the case I’d be making so many more negronis! My goal is to offer a taste and a bridge into this wonderful world that I am a part of, just like wines once the bug bites there is no turning back with endless possibilities!

E101: I’m presuming by your recipe that you create your own syrups? Is that common?

OT: Actually, yes! Syrups and infusions are a very personal touch on cocktails. We are seeing more and more mixologists come out with their own syrups, tinctures, and liqueurs.

The thing is, until recently homemade “rectifications” were considered illegal in California. Thanks to the mixologist community and a recent law that was passed, we can now offer these with confidence at public venues.

Caraway infused Campari, black cardamom infused Sherry, black pepper and jalapeno infused Chartreuse, clove infused Cognac, chai tea infused Vermouth, and similar spirits are now being proudly offered in cocktails all around California.

We’re even seeing more bitters and tincture competitions, after all these are what balances and rounds the taste in a lot of cocktails while also playing a part in aromatics in our “back” soft palate.

I strongly encourage everyone to try out a few at home and use them as building blocks to create even more for the likes of offering something unique at their holiday parties. Here’s an Idea:

Pumpkin Spice Dram:

24oz. Blue Moon Pumpkin Ale (there are better pumpkin ales but these are relatively easy to find and it works great in this recipe)

28oz. Brown Sugar (Dark)

20oz. Vodka (preferably pot distilled)

1 1/2oz. Pumpkin Pie Spice ( I prefer using the World Market brand)

1/4oz. Allspice

Method: Pour the ale in a large saucepan and leave in the fridge overnight to release the CO2. Slowly bring the beer to high heat as the rest of the CO2 is released while adding the sugar and spices. At this point the beer will form a head so remove from heat and skim off the head. Allow to cool and add the vodka. Now use some cheesecloth or a fine strainer to remove any particles while pouring the contents in bottles. Leave in the fridge overnight and it will be ready to use.

E101: The photo I grabbed off Facebook for you references the Bartender’s Guild, what’s that?

OT: The United States Bartenders Guild is a branch of the International Bartenders Association which was officially founded during a meeting held at the Grand Hotel, Torquay, England, on February 24th, 1951.

I am proud to be a member of the USBG, we try to bring awareness in all areas of the craft even wines and cigars to our fellow bartenders and people involved in our industry. It’s a camaraderie of individuals that have looked at bartending as more than just pouring something from a bottle.

We have educational and social events that raise awareness about our craft so that we might in turn be better and have more to offer to our wonderful guests.

This is truly a great time to be involved in our world and we look to the future as more and more bars are including the culinary cocktail and offering things that are true and local to their community.

The truth is we lost a lot of our talent in our nation as Prohibition set in. Many were forced to close shop and head overseas. We are now experiencing a “second golden age” of cocktails. It is truly an exciting time as we are seeing so much more art and creativity from the heart! We were so behind from our international counterparts but now we are gaining great steam and progress.

Please feel free to go to usbg.org to find out more and hopefully fall in love (if you haven’t already) with our craft and appreciation to the finer things in life.

A votre sante, Oscar!

How I Know it’s Spring: Newhall Refinery Spring Cocktail Rollout Offers New Spirits and More

by

Newhall Refinery has kind of set the bar on the craft cocktail movement in Santa Clarita Valley. I applaud earlier efforts made by Mojitos, SAKE, Mixers and Roman Holiday. And, just so you know it’s not always Newhall Refinery for me, I also appreciate the cocktails at Le Chene, Salt Creek Grille, The Social and others. (And all of the vendors already signed up to participate in Cocktails on the Roof!)

IMG_6104

But, though they all offer a Moscow Mule, a Manhattan, and the like, Newhall Refinery has raised the bar by offering spirits, liqueurs, juices and even techniques not always found on the everyday bar list. These include, from the current menu:

Hangar One Vodka

“Spanked” Basil leaves

Evan Williams Single Barrel Bourbon Whiskey

White Orchard Syrup

Whistle Pig 100-proof Rye

Vya Sweet Vermouth

Cassis Noir De Bourgogne

Abbott’s Bitters

Kimo Sabe Mezcal

White grapes

Ancho Reyes Chile Liqueur

Cilantro

Rittenhouse Rye

Luxardo Cherry

Hakushu 12-year-old Japanese Whiskey

Hendricks Gin

Aloe Vera Juice

Angostura Rum

Shipwrecked Spiced Rum

Sam Smith Strawberry Ale

House made fruit leather

Fernet-Branca Digestif

Camus Cognac

Ugly Monkey Moonshine

Fever Tree Tonic

Teelings Irish Whiskey

Suerte Blanco Tequila

 

So now, lets get to my review:

Bartender Peter Nguyen (Watch this 90-second YouTube slide show to see him in action.) used his expertise to make samples of several of the new cocktail menu items, utilizing every item in the list above. He “spanked” some basil to bring out its flavor, created an Aperitif that would tickle anyone’s appetite, shaved chocolate over the finale…and then some.

The 2016 Spring Cocktail list, and my comments on each that we sampled are noted with *, is below:

Juice Box

Angostura Rum

Sam Smith Strawberry Ale

Orange Juice

Sprite

½ oz. Cassis Noir De Bourgogne

Fruit leather

*Can you say innovative? Adding a little fruit leather to this lovely fruit-filled libation was interesting and fun. Appealing to the child in us all, especially with the flavors of Jolly Rancher Strawberry hard candy that I got. Reminded me of a Mai Tai with a twist.

 

Clarity

Barr Hill Gin

White Orchard Syrup

Aloe Vera Juice

Fever Tree Tonic

Lime wheels

*One of my favorites of the night, this is not your average G & T. The aloe vera gave it a distinctly different and wholly appealing flavor. Peter called it “a spring G & T option” and I enjoyed it for its sweetness and crispy bite.

 

Ain’t Life Grape

Hangar One Vodka

White grapes (or red)

Blueberries

Spanked Basil Leaves

Simple Syrup

Lemon Juice (or ¾ oz.)

Blueberry, grape, blueberry

*Loved the used of green grapes, so refreshing. Subtler and less sweet for those that don’t want a sweet cocktail. This was another I would order again.

 

Bourbon Bramble

Evan Williams Whiskey

St Germain Liqueur

Cassis Noir De Bourgogne

Lemon Wedge

*Make my brown spirit cocktail pink? Blasphemy! But…oh so good. I found it lingering on the palate, and Peter added, “Yes, it definitely lingers, and in the best way possible.”

 

Poco Pica

Ancho Reyes Liqueur

Kimo Sabe Mezcal

Cucumber Slices

Cilantro

Agave Nectar

Lime wedge, Orange Juice, Sprite

*This was the group’s favorite of the night. And Peter said they were probably going to serve it with a side of sliced cucumber and a dish of chile powder. Like a better Maggie from your fave Mexican restaurant, this one had just the right juxtaposition of fresh appeal and spice.

 

Extended Vacation

Tia Maria Coffee Liqueur

Mt Gay Dark Rum

Half n Half

Shaved chocolate

*Dessert plain and simple – but not really. Peter called it “adult chocolate milk” and all I could think of was Kahlua and milk taken up a giant notch. For the person that doesn’t have room for dessert, but can’t resist it anyway, order this.

 

“Refine” your Wine

Hendricks Gin

Raspberry puree

Simple Syrup

Raspberries

*Reminded me of a Bellini, but fresher and with the kick of juniper-cucumber –rose petal infused Hendricks Gin.

 

Aperitivo

Cassis Noir De Bourgogne

Ancho Reyes Chile Liqueur

Soda Water

*We started with this little treat. And it did the job as, again the juxtaposition of heat (the chile liqueur) and sugar (cassis) tickled my taste buds into submission. I wanted this after dinner too. The flavors from the chile liqueur were very reminiscent of tamarind candy, and quite remarkable.

 

Around the World

Whiskey Flight

– ¾ oz. each of

Teelings Irish

Hakushu Japanese

Whistle Pig, North American

*These I did sample, the last two require a little bit of water in my opinion to open up the flavors and reduce any harshness (often done) however, the Teelings did not. All excellent and definitely on my list when I can’t dare choose between the three. If you haven’t had these it’s a must.

(*We didn’t sample the Moscow Mule, Old Fashioned or Rye Manhattan as they are not new, just favorites that weren’t removed. I’ve ordered and enjoyed them several times and I’m happy they remained on the menu!)

Moscow Mule

Hangar One Vodka

Mint leaves

Lime wedge

Fever Tree Ginger Beer

Mint Sprig, Lime Wedge

 

Old Fashioned

Evan Williams Bourbon

Orange wheel

Luxardo Cherry

Simple syrup

Bitters

Luxardo cherry

 

Rye Manhattan

Rittenhouse Rye

Vya Sweet vermouth, divided

Bitters

Luxardo Cherry

 

Also available:

Mimosa

Bloody Mary

Red Sangria

 

More Scoops

Rumors of beer flavored ice cream and an in-restaurant barrel aged Manhattan program…

Vintage Beacon Circa March 2010: Chile Came to Santa Clarita

by

On March 6 I interviewed Chef Tamra Levine about her inspired interpretation of Chilean fare for a wine pairing dinner at Salt Creek Grille. A month later, and I’m still ranting about it. But the difference is that I’ve now had the dinner.

salt creek grille valencia patioYou may have remembered last Thursday.

The winds whipped up to try and keep us all nestled indoors. But, at exactly 6:15, after I had whipped my own coif up into a tightly fastened “do”, it all calmed down.

I had to imagine that the same thing might be happening in the kitchens at Salt Creek Grille.

Along with their regular Thursday night bustle, they made an impressive inaugural debut in their catering department. And not any of the items were off of the menu; it was all created just for us.

Introduction: Chile 101

Whisked into the tightly tented outdoor bar unlike no other, guests were greeted with full flutes of sparkling wine – not on our printed menu.

From there we were seated, and like any classy event, were assigned to tables with people of like tastes. I was thrilled to find myself placed with Lil Lepore and Shari Fraizer, owners of Vino 100 Valencia. We enjoyed some fun “shop talk.”

Within minutes Greg Amsler, in between meetings for his man-of-the year nomination, welcomed us and introduced Tamra, who in turn, thanked us for attending the first of several regional wine pairing meals she had planned. I wanted her to tell the crowd that she is the only caterer and near sommelier in our valley equipped to create the meals and choose the wines for them, but being far more modest than I am, she instead introduced Alex Guarchi, president of TGIC Importers to talk to the crowd.

“I want to thank you all for taking the time to come to a dinner, during this recession. Taking the time for wine – if we don’t do that – there is something wrong with that picture.”

“Taste is very subjective I believe. You have to be open to the wine and food and let them speak for themselves. You will have light wines with the lighter food and then be introduced to bigger wines.”

“You’ve undoubtedly heard several do’s and don’ts with wine. Who here knows which fish is okay to have with a Pinot Noir?” To which Lil Lepore confidently answered, “Salmon!”

The Courses Begin

While Alex spoke, our first course arrived: Empanada de Camerone Humitas, Calabaza, Corn and Coconut soup with Pisco Sours. Pisco is a brandy made of Muscatel grapes in Chile and Peru; no one knows who created it first. The bar staff mixed it with egg whites, lime and sugar. The egg whites coated my tongue in a sugary glaze – the perfect aperitif to the soup and empanada.

Next came pan seared Chilean Sea Bass Moho paired with a low French oaked 2007 Santa Ema Reserve Chardonnay. Guests commented that the delicate fish balanced well with the wine.

Merken dusted Pheasant Breast Medallions stuffed with Chilean mushrooms made me wonder where you could get pheasant in SCV. Served over a bed of Chorizo laced Quinoa Risotto, I was surprised to learn from Tamra that the quinoa was an ancient grain and actually the seed of a plant. Paired with 2007 Montes Alpha Pinot Noir aged 12 months in French Oak, my palate was experiencing heaven.

Then, if that wasn’t enough, on came the Adobo Marinated Flank Steak with Chilean salsa, Potato and Onion Timbale and a 2005 Santa Ema Catalina. I was left to try and choose which of the reds I enjoyed more…and couldn’t do it.

Sneaking back to the kitchens to see the more-than-competent staff create the dessert, I shot some fun photos and then raced back as not to miss a bite. I did note that there was a friendly feel among them and I was happy to see that a meal this noteworthy could be managed so pleasantly.

My Dulce de Leche Ice Cream with raspberries, apricots and a to-die-for perfectly warmed Caramel Shot was accompanied by a 2008 Montes late harvest Gewurztraminer. I don’t usually eat desserts. I don’t usually enjoy late harvest wines. But, then again, I’d never had Chilean food in my life. It was not a night for usual tastes; it was one that was as Alex Guarchi had suggested, “Be open to the wine and food – and let them speak for themselves.”

Tasting the Latest from the Opolo Vineyards Spirit Portfolio

by

Opolo Vineyards donated two different spirits to the recent Cocktails on the Roof non-profit event I co-hosted. They were very generous in sending a total of 3 cases for our 400-person event…and since they sent the cases to me…I asked if I could pilfer a couple of the bottles to drink…err taste…and they said yes. Truth be told even more, I had tasted their grappa during a recent visit with distiller Paul Quinn but the other spirit I received for our event, the pear brandy, was still being made.

opolo grappa and brandy I was very happy to taste:

Williams Pear Brandy

Eau-de-Vie “Water of Life”

42.5% alcohol (85 proof)

Excerpt from back label: “…The aroma and flavor of the brandy should feel exactly like biting into a ripe Bartlett pear. Serve chilled or neat.

Aroma: Yes, I do get fresh cut pears, then a bit of hazelnut, almond, yogurt, vanilla, juniper, lime, mown grass, suede…my imagination ran the full gamut of memories this one called up.

Flavor: Lots of pears in light pear syrup, banana, rye toast, unsalted butter, viscous and a pleasant burn that ends in a nice round finish. (Note: I often use brandies, liqueurs and even flavored vodkas instead of vermouth in a vodka martini.

The whisper of a flavored spirit can enhance your vodka, and not make it cloyingly sweet like say a Cosmopolitan or Lemon Drop Martini. This Opolo Pear Brandy would lend itself well to that approach.) 96 Eve pts.

Grappa Lozovaca

42.5% alcohol (85 proof)

Excerpt from back label: “…in Italy (grappa is made) to reduce wasted pomace from wine making. (It) should be served chilled, neat or enjoy with espresso.”

Aroma: Welcoming as there is no burn, toffee roasted walnut, black licorice, baked red delicious apple, creamy finish.

Flavor: There’s the burn, but only at the finish as expected. Robust viscosity and mouthfeel, fresh cut anise, Mandarin orange and meringue. Wholly pleasant. Would be a great aperitif or digestif in my opinion. 96 Eve pts.

From the Opolo Distillery

With Opolo’s rich ties to the Balkan coast, co-owners Rick Quinn and Dave Nichols have combined their winemaking expertise with traditional recipes to create complex fruit brandies. Distilled from the fermented fruit itself, the brandies have not been adulated with added flavors. Our first release includes Grappa from Opolo’s estate grown Muscat Blanc, a William’s Pear Brandy distilled from northern California Bartlett pears and a Nocino, a walnut based liqueur made from our organic estate walnuts. Come by and experience the distillery!

Available for purchase in the Tasting Room.

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years.  She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com