The New Masters of Wine Virtually Explore Tuscany

July 19, 2021 by evebushman

TUSCANY, ITALY (PRWEB) – Lamberto Frescobaldi, president of Marchesi Frescobaldi, and Gabriele Gorelli, Montalcino native and the first Italian Master of Wine, hosted this year’s newly appointed Masters of Wine, in a guided virtual tasting on the terroir and flavors of Tuscany’s most important denominations, across the 7 iconic estates of the historic Frescobaldi winery. The annual event is intended to support the Masters of Wine as they continue their careers as Italian ambassadors of wine and provide ongoing education, insights and dialogue.

The virtual tasting and tour explored the hills of Castello Pomino, the maritime climate of Tenuta Ammiraglia’s Maremma, the island of Gorgona, quintessential Chianti Classico in Tenuta Perano, the family’s history in Tenuta Castiglioni, the surprising international blend in the Chianti Rufina of Castello Nipozzano, and finally timeless elegance of Brunello di Montalcino from Tenuta CastelGiocondo.

“We like to think of Frescobaldi as an authentic agricultural reality that has allowed us to truly represent Tuscany through the different estates,” says Lamberto Frescobaldi, “This fortune has always reminded us of the importance of sharing our experience and the beauty of the land we have lived in and cultivated for generations. This is why we decided to organize this virtual trip dedicated to people that we consider as important ambassadors of wine culture in the world. A moment of togetherness and an encounter that has been more special thanks to the presence of Gabriele Gorelli, the first Italian Master of Wine, who shares our origins and love for Tuscany.”

“It was an honor and pleasure for me to be able to share the story of my native land through an ideal motorcycle trip across the Frescobaldi estates,” adds Gabriele Gorelli MW, “Most importantly, it was my great joy to have accompanied my fellow Masters of Wine who have travelled a tough and challenging road. It is surprising how great ideas can arise from an intimate and relaxed atmosphere. I wish that welcoming the new MW can become a new tradition for Frescobaldi.”

The event was well received by the attending Masters of Wine and is planned to take place annually for the new class of MWs to fully discover the richness of Tuscan territory and its wine production.

Tasting “The Fruit of a Magic Formula” With Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, Owner of Col d’Orcia

March 12, 2021 by evebushman

A great invitation came my way to meet the owner of an Italian winery and taste three of his wines with about 40 other professionals. This time it was:

“…Join us via Zoom as Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, owner of Col d’Orcia, shares a first taste of his new 2016 Brunello di Montalcino 5-star release, together with two other top wines from his organically farmed estate…Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013 – another stellar, 5-star vintage – and Olmaia Sant’Antimo Cabernet DOC 2015 (great vintage as well!) All three wines are produced entirely with organically grown grapes farmed on the Col d’Orcia estate and bottled on location.”

Takeaways from Time with The Count

Let me start by saying that right off there was something Capra-esque and Cary Grant-ish about Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, as he warmly greeted our group from Col d’Orcia (pronounced Col-Door-Cha) with amazing photos of his property while wearing a vineyard colored green scarf and jacket that was in perfect “balance” for the scenery.

Fifty percent of the land in Montalcino is natural woodland.
They are located in a natural park, and a designated UNESCO territory.
The Count feels “a duty” to “protect the environment” that he has inherited.
There is an oak tree in the vineyard that is four and a half centuries old, and is a “symbol of care for nature.”
They have invested a lot into Research and Development. Though going 100% organic wasn’t so difficult as “little had to be done to do so.”
The Brunello is 100% Sangiovese grapes. The wine is made to be paired with food, which is the “concept of drinkability and food pairing.” The wine also has an “incredible intensity in aroma and taste.”
The soil is a mix of clay, sand and a high level of limestone that gives “quality” to the “tannins.”
Families, and their pets, have been on the estate for decades. As well as a bee population, grains to make pasta and other animals that live there include sheep, goats, poultry and pheasants.
“A happy winemaker produces a good wine…(and they also have) “the fruit of a magic formula.”
They grow Pinot Grigio, Vermentino, Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot and other wine grapes on the property.

Background

As one of the original estates of Montalcino and now the largest certified organic estate in Tuscany, Col d’Orcia is a leader in Brunello di Montalcino, helping to define and promote one of Italy’s most prestigious wine regions. Tradition, integrity and sustainability are the pillars of the estate, whose classic style wines are celebrated all over the world. Proudly defined as an ‘organic island,’ Col d’Orcia is committed to maintaining the natural environment in which it operates and has, for many years, employed organic farming practices.

About the Family

Col d’Orcia has a rich winemaking history dating back to the 1700s. Today, the estate is owned and managed by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano. A world traveler with boundless energy, the Count is a tireless ambassador for his estate as well as the Montalcino region. Under his leadership, plantings have expanded exponentially at Col d’Orcia and the estate has been transformed into an organic farm.

My Notes on the Wines (in italics), following notes from the technical sheets

Brunello di Montalcino 2016

14.5% alcohol. On aging, “4 years, 3 of which in 25-50 and 75 hl oak casks from Slavonia and Allier followed by at least 12 months of refinement in the bottles placed in storage at controlled temperature.” $59.99

This wine is a blend from all of the vineyards in the estate. Lots of red berries on the nose, as well as earth, Italian plums, and spice all in a nice balance on the nose. The taste delivered those same fresh and fruity red berries, tannins and a crispness noted by the Count.

Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013

15% alcohol, “The wine is aged a minimum of six years prior to release; four years in Slavonian and French oak casks followed by at least two years refinement in bottle.” $162.99

This Riserva is a limited release with less than 12 thousand bottles and could age for quite some time, according to the Count, 10 more years or so. The Count called it an “elegant” wine and none of us disagreed. The nose was huge with notes of red fruit again, but also whiffs from a well-tended vegetable garden, peppery and lots of minerals. Going in for a taste I found it both lively and spicy with medium tannins and acidity. I was craving the pasta I planned for dinner about now.

Olmaia Sant’Antimo Cabernet DOC 2015

14.5% alcohol. Aging notes include, “The wine is aged 18 months in new French oak barriques and a small portion in American barrels, followed by a further 8 months refinement in bottle.” $68.99

The name Olmaia means Elm Tree in Italian according to the Count. This Cabernet, of course, was nothing like the red fruit of a Sangiovese. It was all dark fruit, sweet tobacco, milk chocolate with a creamy balance between the fruit and spice on the nose; on the palate came the same notes, but also dark and dusty fruit, and what the count referred to as “herbs, spices and minerality.”

https://www.coldorcia.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits

One Bottle Post: 2004 Poggio Il Castellare Brunello Di Montalcino

January 29, 2021 by evebushman

In keeping with my “Rona” series, aka more one-bottle blog posts because I can’t go out for wine, this week I give you the 2004 Poggio Il Castellare Brunello Di Montalcino, a remarkable Brunello made from Sangiovese grapes. (In my experience a Brunello take less time to aerate than their equally famous cousin, the Barolo made from Nebbiolo grapes. And I’m talking 90 minutes in a decanter for a Brunello compared to about seven or more hours for a Barolo – give or take an hour. This matters to me most as I don’t always know by 11 am what I’ll want to drink at 6pm, or worse: I do know what wine I want with dinner but the wine wasn’t ready to drink by dinner time. Back up bottles have become more important to me for this situation.)

Now back to this wine! This is the social media post I shared last month on this Brunello, with tasting notes and scores:

What great wine have you found in your glass lately? I found this in our cellar, hoping Eddie has another bottle: 2004 Poggio Il Castellare Brunello Di Montalcino, 14% alcohol, decanted for 90 minutes and oh, so good. On the nose this Sangiovese delivered dark cherry, toasted oak, black peppercorn, sweet char off a good filet, espresso, sandalwood and a sweet bread note reminiscent of a waffle cone. The taste had the same notes, very peppery, tannic with all dark fruit and dark chocolate. The finish had a nice sweet note to it as well. Did a little Googling and found that K and L has it on their wait list and sells for $46.95, which I think is a good price, Wine Spectator gave it 96 points in 2009 and awarded it the #11 spot for the Top 100 wines of the year. Cellar Tracker gave it 92, Wine Enthusiast 91. Some recommended to drink by 2013 but I thought it was great now in 2021.

After the tasting I did a little more research on this particular vintage and the winery. I learned from looking at images of the winery that it would be spectacular to visit. From their Instagram I learned that they also have an incredible restaurant on their Montalcino property. On their website there are tabs for Private Dinners, their Tavern, and more.

Also, since I brought it up in my opening paragraph, in regards to length of time to decant a Barolo I searched the internet and learned that anywhere between one and two hours seemed to be the sweet spot for most vinophiles. Looking further I found that Wine Folly says two for a Brunello and three for a Barolo. So this is just an FYI for you when you want to try these varietals.

From the winery website:

In Tuscany there are places that can tell ancient stories and characters. The Baroncini family already started producing wine in 1489. So from father to son, 500 years have passed, and still today in Montalcino, Bruna and Samuele, produce wine as if to testify how time cannot scratch the traditions.

The high quality of the wines produced in the Montalcino area was already known at the time of the Etruscans, who had developed active settlements on these hills. The name “Tenuta Poggio Il Castellare” given to the company brings us back to the historical roots of the place: to the finds of an ancient settlement with the remains of houses and towers on the top of the hill of the same name.

For those that like to geek out from tech sheets, this is also from their website:

Production Area: Montalcino
Mixed Grapes: 100% Sangiovese Grosso
Terrain: Pliocene origins lands of predominantly clayey marl. They tend to reach considerable depth, offering great minerality
Growing System: Spurred cordon with dug soil
Density: 3500 vines/hectare
Average output per hectare: 45 hectolitres
Altitude: 500 metres
Microclimate: The climate is typically Mediterranean, with showers concentrated in autumn and spring. The middle hill area is frequently windy, which is ideal to keep the vines healthy. The climate is generally mild, with a high rate of sunny days during the whole vegetative phase: these conditions guarantee a gradual and complete ripening of the grapes.
Production Process: Manual harvest when the grapes are perfectly ripe. Alcoholic fermentation with controlled temperature (26°C) for about 10-12 days on the skins. Malolactic fermentation in steel vats. Refining in 2500lt Slavonian oak barrels for 30 months and in 225 lt French oak barrels for 20 months. Further refining in bottles for 4 months before the sale
Organoleptic Properties:
Colour – ruby red verging to garnet-red;
Bouquet – very intense, lingering, with hints of cherry fruit and spices;
Taste –well-balanced, with velvety tannins and a long aromatic grip on the palate
Alcoholic Gradation: 14,5% VOL
Serving Temperature: 22,0°C
Pairings: seasoned cheese, red meat, roasts, braised meat, game

Instagram: @PoggioIlCastellare

https://www.facebook.com/poggioilcastellare/

http://www.tenutetoscane.com/castellare/english/cellar-castellare.html

https://poggioilcastellare.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Circle Of Hope Announces Online Auction Open To All This Saturday, May 23

May 21, 2020 by evebushman

Cult Wines, Library Wines, Themed Baskets, Gift Cards, Dream Vacations for the Future and More – All Will Be Available Beginning May 23

SANTA CLARITA, CA – With Vine2Wine, To Go poised to start on May 30 with wine, food and a goodie bag for ticket holders there is one thing non-ticket holders can get their hands on to enjoy the fun as well: Circle of Hope has announced their first online auction to start Saturday, May 23 and will close a day after the main event, on May 31.

In keeping with their out-of-the-box idea for the “To Go” event Circle of Hope has created another unique idea, changing their traditional in person silent auction to an online auction, substantial in the wine department, for both guests and non-guests to partake in and enjoy.

Circle of Hope Auction Chair Debra Ragonig commented, “We wanted to get the auction rolling early, and get interested parties that want to support Circle of Hope, and get their hands on some very cool auction items as soon as possible, so we have our online auction starting a full week before our big Vine2Wine, To Go party. Getting our interested bidders online now and registered will help us get the ball rolling.”

Co-chair Eve Bushman added, “Many good friends have really outdone themselves with their incredible generosity diving deep into their own private cellars, including Vine 2 Wine’s long time Wine Chair Jeff Jacobson who also recruited his two adult children and their spouses: Julie and Chris Hovden and Jeremy and Michelle Jacobson. In addition he recruited longtime Vine 2 Wine supporters and friends Russ and Leslie Bretall. Jeff and I both recruited our mutual friends Steve and Amy Elzer. Rounding off our donors included my pals Marlee Lauffer, Karen and Michael Perlis, Rose and Steve Chegwin, and my husband Eddie Bushman.”

How it works: This Saturday, May 23 go to the Circle of Hope website, https://circleofhopeinc.org/vine2wine/ , and look for a button for the online auction or go directly to the auction link here. There is no fee to sign up and participate. Register there and start bidding. If you really want something and don’t want to come back to see how the bidding is going we encourage you to look for the “buy it now” price and the item will be yours. Wines and other auction items will be available for pick up in Santa Clarita on June first.

A preview of the auction items include: gift cards to local restaurants such as Salt Creek Grille and Wolf Creek Restaurant; gift baskets with loads of items like a “Sephora Extravaganza” and “It’s Time to BBQ!”; jewelry, candles and fashion Items; liquor; trips that can be taken in 2022; retro basket with popcorn maker, snow cone machine and tons of 80’s retro candy; Father’s Day baskets like “MEGA Poker Night” or “Liquid Gold (aka Jack Daniels)” and more.

“Some of the library wines featured include Sine Qua Non Rosé, Joseph Phelps Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Williams Selyem Pinot Noir, Vin Gris of Pinot Noir and Chenin Blanc, Justin Isosceles and Cabernet Sauvignon, Tobin James Bordeaux Blend and Reserve Syrah, 1993 Silver Oak Cabernet, 1994 Dalla Valle Cabernet, 1996 French Cab Franc, 1999 Whitcraft Lagrein, 1997 Vintage Port, 1998 German Riesling, Australian Grenache, Brunello di Montalcino and more wines from McPrice Myers, Robert Biale, Shane Wines, Regusci, Booker, Denner, Clavo, Veraison and Linne Calodo” Bushman said.

For information on Vine2Wine, To Go, Circle of Hope services and programs or to receive sponsorship information, please contact Circle of Hope at info@circleofhopeinc.org or at 661 254-5218. Donations and ticket purchases can be made through the Circle of Hope website at www.circleofhopeinc.org .

Circle of Hope is a 501(c)3, nonprofit organization. For more information on Circle of Hope and the services they provide, please visit their website at www.circleofhopeinc.org or call 661 254-5218. The Circle of Hope office and Wellness Center is located at 23033 Lyons Ave., Ste 3, Newhall, Ca. 91321

Casanova di Neri Wine + Chef Giancarla Bodoni at Bar Toscana = A Taste of Tuscany

December 6, 2019 by evebushman

It was one of the nights that I will not be forgetting anytime soon. I knew we would have “lovely hors d’oeuvres made by Chef Giancarla, accompanied by the Casanova di Neri wine tasting” at one of my favorite places: Bar Toscana, but I was ill-prepared for tasting a Brunello di Montalcino that had not yet been released, never had food made by Chef Giancarla Bodoni that came all the way from the “Medieval village” created by Monteverdi Tuscany or met up with the movers and shakers for all three businesses.

Di Neri on the left, Chef Giancarla in white and a bit of Chef Luca on the right.

Just hitting the key points and heavy hitters blew my mind, here is my Facebook post:

W O W. It was one of those nights that can’t be covered in one social media post or one article. The short story is: we were one of the first in the U.S. to taste the 2015 Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova Brunello di Montalcino well before the 2020 release, meet and learn from 3rd generation family member and general manager Gianlorenzo Neri, meet and taste foods made by Executive Chef Giancarla Bodoni of Monteverdi Tuscany – a boutique hotel and culinary academy, meet Michael L. Cioffi the owner of Monteverdi Tuscany, get a chance to say hello to Kathie and Mike Gordon the owners of Toscana, Bar Toscana and S.Y. Kitchen (and vintners as well), and Chef Luca Crestanelli of S.Y. Kitchen…

Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova was a Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator, 100/100 from Robert Parker and 100/100 from James Suckling…to name just a few of their accolades. (Public Facebook link for photos are here.)

More Details

Fearful of missing anything, below you will find excerpts of news sent to me regarding each involved – Casanova di Neri, Monteverdi Tuscany and Toscana. These are just some of the notes I made at the event:

Gianlorenzo Neri, the third generation of the Neri family to work the winery, said that the 2015 is one of the best they’ve made in the past 20 to 25 years, with incredible potential for aging and drinkability now. The consortium had to approve the early release for the tastings, and had slapped a “sample” label on the bottles.

The vineyard was previously home to sheep before Neri’s grandfather planted grapevines there, the name roughly translates to Farmers of the Neri Family, and their home and offices are all in the same place. Neri said that he and his brother attended a high school for winemakers.

This tasting was part of a Taste of Tuscany tour through Brentwood, Santa Ynez and Napa Valley; introducing wine lovers to the new wine and food pairings by Executive Chef Giancarla Bodoni of Monteverdi Tuscany. Hotel owner Michael L. Cioffi commented that everything comes from the land, “the Tuscany of your dreams” with a landscape of green and gold that show vineyards, olive trees, and poppies. It all “reflects the majesty of the land.” The hotel is made from all reclaimed materials (part was a former school building and restored village) as it’s “important to part of the land they’re in.” It was “the land that captivated” Cioffi, just like the Neri family captivated him. Besides their marvelous Chef Giancarla in residence at Monteverdi Tuscany, famed Chef Nancy Silverton will be coming in March to cook at their academy. Chef Giancarla added, “Food grows everywhere” in Italy and she “ loves to teach, to share…is (her) true heart and soul.”

Restaurateur Kathie Gordon said that they take great pleasure in feeding people…and creating an enjoyable evening to remember; Casanova di Neri does the same thing with their wines. (Later Kathie shared their own wine: 2014 “Cocobacio”, Dove Meadow Vineyard, Bellebob Slope, Los Olivos District. The wine is a red blend of estate grown grapes, this vintage was 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese and 30% Syrah with 13.9% alcohol. The wines are cellared and bottled for them at Andrew Murray Vineyards. It was a lovely wine and available only at their restaurants.)

2015 Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova Brunello di Montalcino Tasting Notes

Velvety aromas of plum, black pepper, figs, earth and a hint of eucalyptus followed by flavors of red to black fruit, bright but with good tannins, structure and balance. The bottle had been open for a few hours but not decanted.

About Casanova di Neri

Founded in 1971 by Giovanni Neri, Casanova di Neri Winery has become one of the most respected wineries in all of Italy. Upon the passing of Giovanni, his son, Giacomo, took over the reins in 1991 and today is recognized as one of the wine industry’s most influential producers. Wine critic James Suckling calls Giacomo “one of the masters of Brunello.”

This family-run cellar owes its success to a solid track record of powerful, luxuriant Brunellos and to the exclusive crus, Tenuta Nuova and Cerretalto… the wines of Casanova di Neri are renowned for their elegant, modern style and enjoy a steady flow of accolades from specialty magazines and contests the world over. In 2006, the Wine Spectator named their Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova 2001 the #1 Wine in the World, calling it “one of the best examples of the recent winemaking renaissance in Tuscany.” Casanova di Neri wines repeatedly score 100-points.

About Monteverdi Tuscany

Monteverdi Tuscany is a luxury boutique hotel centrally located between Rome and Florence, offering stunning panoramic views of the Val d’Orcia region of Tuscany, a UNESCO World Heritage Site…the six-year-old hotel is not confined within a single building but instead is dispersed throughout an idyllic, medieval village, with rooms and suites tucked in among authentic and fastidiously maintained properties. With its transformative restoration complete, the hotel now comprises eighteen individual rooms and suites plus three elegantly appointed villas…in addition, Monteverdi Tuscany boasts an award-winning farm-to-table restaurant, a Culinary Academy, a piano lounge and terrace bar, a separate enoteca and Library Bar, outdoor swimming pool and indoor heated spa pool, an award-winning holistic spa, yoga studio, a modern gym, an art gallery, and a beautifully restored 700-year-old church that serves as Monteverdi’s performing arts venue.

About Toscana

The talented culinary team at Toscana has firm Italian roots. Executive Chef Luca Crestanelli was born and raised in Verona, Italy, where he received his Culinary Arts degree…he was invited to work for the Gordon family, launching Bar Toscana in 2010. In 2013 the three partnered to open a third restaurant, S.Y. Kitchen in Santa Ynez, California.

The Gordons are grateful for the longevity of their restaurant and are actively involved in the management of Toscana, the adjacent Bar Toscana, Nerano in Beverly Hills and S.Y. Kitchen in Santa Ynez, California where they call home…

From a Wine Student and Wine Writer: So Long to Piero Selvaggio and Valentino

January 18, 2019 by evebushman

By the time this article runs Valentino Santa Monica will have shuttered after over 40 years in the same location. The cellar, a Wine Spectator Award winner for many decades, will have been completely depleted via sales and/or being moved to a new restaurant in Newport Beach. The longtime owner, Piero Selvaggio, will have moved out too, soon to be found in Newport Beach with his wine and new restaurant, Louie’s by the Bay. (Read more about the move here in this August 2018 article in the LA Times.)

Piero lecturing at the Skirball

While people knew the restaurant for the wine, cuisine, location, Piero and his staff – I knew it for at least two completely different things. Over the years I was able to attend at least three classes that Piero lent his expertise to and enjoyed a few special occasion press dinners as well. Every one left its mark on me.

The most recent class I attended with Piero was a presentation by Planeta Winery focusing on the Nero d’Avola grape that is cultivated in Sicily. Piero shared his own experience growing up in Sicily before coming to the states and entering the restaurant business. After the class I was lucky enough to sit beside him for lunch. When the waiter brought over a plain green salad with nothing but a yummy dressing I took to the cheese and charcuterie that had also been served and “dressed up” my salad a bit more. Piero, watching me a bit, asked for the tray of goodies so he could do the same. I was tickled.

A few years earlier I had attended a lecture via Tasting Panel Magazine where Piero was part of a panel discussion and presentation at the Skirball on the wines of Calabria. Once again I was amazed by the amount of knowledge this restaurateur had under his belt and vowed to never underestimate the amount of knowledge, and sweat, that goes into running a restaurant for so many years.

The very last meeting I attended where Piero hosted was at Valentino and discussed the sticky wicket of the how and why of corkage policies. As I listened to somms and restaurant owners lament the demise of their business due to corkage policies that were demanded by customers, I was charmed by Piero who never once criticized a guest. A real gentleman.

There were also a few press dinners I attended courtesy of Piero. We were “guests of the Briziarelli estate” for the multi-course dinner, which was fabulous. LOTS of photos in this link. I remember a slight lull in the evening and I was able to get Piero to take a few minutes to show me his famed wine cellar. Hall after hall, room after room, up a staircase to a larger room, and finally opening up into the private cellar dining room. I had literally died and gone to wine writer heaven that night.

Another dinner heralded in the latest Brunello di Montalcino 2010 vintage, again in a multi course menu, only to be interrupted…by the blare of a horn? It was famous Italian butcher Dario Cecchini from Panzano, Chianti! And why Valentino for this special dinner? “Valentino was ONE of only 26 restaurants to toast the Brunello 2010 as only 26 were awarded the Leccio d’Oro prize; the restaurant was also one of the first to receive this prestigious award in 1995 – and the first outside of Italy.” Part one on this story is linked above, this is the link for Part two.

The most memorable dinner for me had to be the Prosciutto di Parma event. A group of press were invited into that private cellar dining room, after appetizers on the second story patio and then after a demonstration and lesson with Francesco Lupo we sat and enjoyed dish after dish created by Chef Nico Chessa. My mouth waters to this day when I reminisce about that dinner.

Okay, only now, after having written all this out, I can say goodbye to Valentino and all that Piero gave to us. I will be forever grateful for his gracious press invitations and the wealth of education I gained from it all. Can you say the same about any restaurateur you have known?

The Circuitous Path from Network News to Fine Wine, by Tim Ortman (Part Two)

June 14, 2018 by evebushman

My budding intrigue with wine remained closeted until one fateful night at an Italian restaurant in Frankfurt. I was dining with a dear friend and colleague. He’s about my age, but with Italian-Uruguayan heritage, he was more culturally savvy than I’d ever hoped to be, given what my Dayton, OH. upbringing had provided. Naturally, he took control and, to accompany our Italian meal, ordered an Italian wine. Without taking notice of what it was, I took a drink to get the evening going.

And that’s when it all started. Or, more accurately, stopped. All movement in the room seemed to cease as I savored the entirely new nuances dancing over my tongue. I no longer heard my friend or the waiter. Didn’t see the surrounding tables or menu in front of me. I was solely focused on the glass in my hand and the flavor in my mouth.

When I finally snapped out of my self-induced trance, with the seriousness of a surgeon, I inquired, “What did you just order?”

To which my friend replied, “Brunello di Montalcino. Is like liquid velvet, no?”

Damn right, and Voila! The light bulb above my head was shining brightly. As the taste still lingered in my mouth, I ordered another bottle. Even the name was seductive… Brunello di Montalcino. What did it mean? Where did it come from? I had to know more. This thing had grabbed me by the so-called palate and wouldn’t let go. At that point, I was fully seduced – or worse, hooked. Even as we left the restaurant, the thought was unshakeable. “Brunello di Montalcino.” There was no turning back.

Not long after that dinner, NBC News transferred me from Germany to Italy. Rome, Italy. I would be just a stone’s throw from the city of Montalcino, home to my beloved Brunello. But this proved to be both a blessing and a curse. Yes, Brunello di Montalcino would be much more accessible. Yet, the Italian shops and restaurants featured not just one Brunello, but 20 or 30 different Brunellos from a variety of producers and vineyard sites – offering many separate vintages for me to choose from. Making sense of it all was almost as maddening as deciphering that first German label had been.

Somehow, I mustered the courage to tackle the course, and with a glass in each hand I tasted my way through the many producers of Brunello. The legendary leader was Biondi Santi, whose winemaking roots could be traced back to the 1800s. And there were others, many others, of whom I would become a lifelong fan – like Ciacci, Il Poggione, Col d’Orcia, and Sassetti to name just a few. Being employed by a television news network has its perks. Occasionally, we’d take a well-deserved break from the hard news of the day to file ‘feature stories’ from scenic locations like… say, Montalcino. Visiting picturesque wineries was a photographic must for these assignments. Our Italian hosts would insist on educating and sampling us on the local grape. Persistence pays off, as well, and I was just beginning to learn one piece, the Brunello piece, of the much bigger puzzle.

(Editor’s Note: This story is broken into four parts, please return to this website on the same weekday next week for part three.)

Tim Ortman is an Emmy Award-winning cameraman and producer and author of the new book, Newsreal: A View Through the Lens When… He is a certified Sommelier and member of La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. Connect with him on Facebook, @TimOrtmanWriter.

Learning About The Consortium of Brunello di Montalcino Wine Part 2

March 6, 2015 by evebushman

Before the event (Wine 101 Moves Up: Leccio Gold Award-Winning Valentino Restaurant Paired with 2010 Brunello di Montalcino, Part One, 2/27/15) I received a 12-page press packet to familiarize myself with the Consortium: the history, the wine and the people. Among other things I learned:

The Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino was created in 1967 right after the recognition of its D.O.C., as a free association of producers, intent on safeguarding their wine.

The four denominations of wine for the region include Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino, Moscadello di Montalcino, and Sant’Antimo.

There are 250 producers in the Consortium that combined total 3,500 hectares of vineyards.

Brunello is obtained exclusively from Sangiovese grapes (locally known as “Brunello” grapes) grown within the territory of the Montalcino township.

The wine is currently considered the “diamond edge” of Italian production.

The main feature of Brunello is its long aging before being put on the market.

The oldest bottled Brunello is dated 1888 and kept in the cellars of the Tenuta Il Greppo.

The name Brunello can be given solely to wine produced and bottled within the township of Montalcino.

Brunello di Montalcino can undergo long aging, improving as time goes on from a minimum of 10 years up to 30 years.

Brunello di Montalcino “must be served in widely shaped crystal glasses” to fully appreciate the wine’s bouquet.

While Brunello is “destined for long aging”, the Rosso di Montalcino is considered a “younger brother” with more liveliness.

Moscadello di Montalcino is a dessert wine produced in still, sparkling and late harvest types.

Sant’Antimo produces both red and white wines from several different grape varieties.

Facebook album link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10205002877299055.1073741901.1455706632&type=1&l=04d543c01c

About Valentino Santa Monica

Piero Selvaggio and VALENTINO have made a significant contribution to the Los Angeles restaurant scene for over forty two years, introducing authentic Italian products, wine and regional cuisine to the public and nurturing many of our most influential chefs and restaurateurs. Selvaggio was recently recognized for his achievement in Angeleno and Wine Spectator magazines in October 2012. VALENTINO was named among the best Italian restaurants in the United States by Travel & Leisure and The Daily Meal. The restaurant was named among the thirteen restaurants that changed the Los Angeles dining scene by Zagat.comin 2012 and awarded Top 10 Romantic Restaurants, Top 10 Wine Lists, Top 10 Italian Restaurants in Los Angeles by Gayot.comin 2012. In 2013 Piero Selvaggio was one of five recipients of the prestigious Grana Padano Italian Cuisine Worldwide Awards and was also profiled for the “Lifer” interview in Eater LA about his legendary career the same year. With its intimate dining rooms, unsurpassed wine cellar, and the consummate graciousness of owner Piero Selvaggio, VALENTINO remains the favored destination for some of the best dining in Los Angeles.

3115 Pico Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401

310.829.4313

http://www.valentinosantamonica.com

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Wine 101 Moves Up: Leccio Gold Award-Winning Valentino Restaurant Paired with 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Part One

February 27, 2015 by evebushman

A wonderful dinner was interrupted by the sound of a blaring horn. Not what I was expecting at the famed Italian restaurant Valentino, and I was afraid someone had set off a fire alarm. I heard laughter from another other room, the horn went off again, and lo and behold it seemed that Bacchus himself burst into the main dining room and then everything…would never be the same. More on this in a couple of minutes.

Italian butcher Dario Cecchini from Panzano, Chianti with Eve

Piero Selvaggio, the owner of Valentino Santa Monica, Chef Luciano Pellegrini and the Consortium of the Brunello of Montalcino Wine recently presented a wine-pairing diner that included a tasting of the internationally acclaimed 2010 Brunello vintage.

Only Dinner on the West Coast

The Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino awards the Leccio Gold each year to a restaurant that has a wine list with a wide presence of Brunello di Montalcino and other wines of Montalcino. Valentino was ONE of only 26 restaurants to toast the Brunello 2010 as only 26 were awarded the Leccio d’Oro prize; the restaurant was also one of the first to receive this prestigious award in 1995 – and the first outside of Italy.

We learned that our “Leccio d’Oro” Gala Dinner was also the ONLY one held on the west coast. Chef Luciano Pellegrini, the long-time chef of Valentino Santa Monica and Las Vegas, presented the meal. The dinner was paired with a few Brunello wines – including the greatest recent vintage, 2010 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO.

Surprise Guest

The owner of the horn, and the mischievous Bacchus (God of Wine) personality was none other than famous Italian butcher Dario Cecchini all the way from Panzano, Chianti. He had some nice things to say about Piero, via his wife that translated: “Piero is a legend, he is the heart of Italy. We sent him to you many years ago and are very proud of him. There’s an ocean between us but our hearts are together. And I’m pleased to be here with Piero and Brunello.” To which Piero responded, “I didn’t stage this meeting tonight – he is a great friend of mine and the king of Tuscany!”

Company, Menu and Wines

Seated in the main dining room, we were told that 42 years ago this room held the entire restaurant. Tonight it was filled, and continued to fill with chairs being added in, with Brunello lovers.

My table was for press and winery representatives. I was seated next to Luciano Castiello, the National Ambassador for Cru Artisan Wines. Castiello kept me both entertained and informed during the evening. The first thing I was to learn was that the 2010s were “number one”, as there was “no more perfect harvest.”

We began with a 2010 La Velona Brunello di Montalcino that had bright red fruit flavors and a nice dry finish. Castiello said that his 76 year-old father called the wine “a young beautiful vibrant lady – when she’s 35” in a nod to the aging that most Brunellos see before drinking.

Castiello said that the grapes are “touched, and if they stick to the fingers they are ready” to be harvested. The wine is “intriguing and elegant” and not the type of wine that would “hit you” over the head. These Brunellos were subtle, yet expanding, on the palate.

Facebook album link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10205002877299055.1073741901.1455706632&type=1&l=04d543c01c

ASSAGGINI

Fried Quail Eggs in Brioche, Mixed Seafood Cakes with Spicy Aioli

Bruschetta with Asparagus and Black Truffle

A Variety of Grilled Flat Bread Pizze

FIRST COURSE

Tuscan Style Roasted Porchetta with Lattughina, Pecorino and Aged Balsamico (The La Velona was nice with this course, and also served well as the perfect palate cleanser.)

DUET OF PASTA

Pappardelle with Rabbit Meatballs and Homemade Pigeon Ravioli in their own Sauce (Castiello ordered one of his Banfi labels from the wine list for this, a 2010 Toscana Cum Laude blend that I noted had dark juicy fruit, pepper, menthol and was ready to drink. Castiello explained that the wine was about $40 retail, unfiltered, aged in French oak barrels…and I’ll be looking for this one.)

SECONDO

Colorado Rack of Lamb and Wild Boar Tagliata Scented with Fresh Thyme

Served over Black Kale Ratatouille, Cardoons and Squash with Peppered Garlic Sauce

IL FORMAGGIO

Pecorino Cheese “Sformato” with Wild Arugula (Here one of the guests purchased a 2009 Brunello di Montalcino, Torre Guelfa. It was decanted, though still needed some aging time in my opinion, with lovely notes of leather, plum and some tart red fruit.)

DOLCE

Dessert

(Due to the length of this story, we will run Learning About The Consortium of Brunello di Montalcino Wine Part 2 on March 6, 2015)