Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: Thacher Winery dinner at Tam O’Shanter

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We recently wrote about a wine dinner at Tam O’Shanter restaurant featuring Carol Shelton Wines that we were unfortunately unable to attend. At the time, we had resolved to do our best to make it to the next wine dinner at The Tam, and that opportunity came sooner than expected when Tam O’Shanter paired up with Thacher Winery of Paso Robles.

Michelle and Sherman Thacher discovered the Kentucky Ranch in what is now the Adelaida AVA of Paso Robles in 2003 when they attended a wedding there. They ended up buying the property soon thereafter and Thacher Winery officially opened in 2008, in time for their fourth harvest. The focus is primarily on Rhone varietals and Zinfandel from a combination of estate and purchased fruit. We’ve tasted and enjoyed the Thacher wines at events but have not yet visited the winery.

It is always an eye-opening and palate-gratifying reminder what a talented executive chef such as The Tam’s JC Salazar can do when using his expertise to create dishes to pair with selected wines. An added bonus was having Tony Quealy, Thacher Winery’s General Manager, available to discuss the wines and the winery.

Here is the menu with our comments in italics:

Lemon Hamachi Crudo – fennel, cucumber, apple-pear, watermelon radish, aguachile, smoked salt paired with 2021 Own Rooted Chenin Blanc – Shell Creek Vineyard, Highlands District, Paso Robles AVA.

First of all, kudos for using Chenin Blanc, a much overlooked grape these days. Even more kudos for using grapes from a vineyard planted in 1972. With a lemon and apricot nose, it was crisp and clean with grapefruit notes. Moderate acidity and body and very well balanced with a medium to long finish. The wine was a perfect accompaniment to the refreshing and complex crudo and was perfectly timed to the hot-day segueing into a pleasantly cool evening.    

Lamb, Lavender & Plums – New Zealand Lamb Rack, Romanesco succotash, plum chutney, lavender honey paired with 2019 Constant Variable – Central Coast.

Is there a better pairing with lamb than Rhone varietals? We think not. In this case, the wine was a blend of 37% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 7% Cinsaut, 7% Counoise and 2% Viognier. Tony referred to this as Thacher’s flagship wine. The deep burgundy/maroon wine presented with dark, ripe stone fruit and a hint of white pepper on the nose. There were spicy notes from the Counoise along with a hint of baking spices. Extremely well balanced in body and acidity with added freshness from the Cinsaut. The mouthfeel was full and the finish was long. All the varietals were barreled separately except for the co-fermented Syrah and Viognier. The richness of the lamb with the chutney and honey proved to be both sweet and savory and this wine helped to bring out these aspects.

Certified Angus NY Strip – potato fondant, glazed Globe carrots, asparagus ribbons, shiitake demi paired with 2018 Original Copy – Adelaida District, Paso Robles AVA.

As lamb pairs with Rhone varietals, beef pairs with Bordeaux varietals. In this case, a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 14% Cabernet Franc combine to make a wine that is deep, dark, rich burgundy in color with aromas of ripe plum. Nicely structured and medium-bodied, with earthy and smoky nuances and a medium to long finish. The bold flavors of the perfectly cooked steak dipped in the demi went hand in hand with the Bordeaux blend.

Olive Oil Cake – macerated cherries, almond brittle, Fosselman’s vanilla ice cream paired with 2020 Working Holiday, Cass Vineyard Red, Paso Robles Geneseo District, Paso Robles AVA.

The dessert was not overly sweet and was delightful with this fruit forward wine from the renowned Cass vineyard on the east side of Paso Robles. A combination of 54% Syrah, 37% Grenache and 9% Mourvedre, this Rhone blend and lively, ripe raspberry on the nose and followed through with the same on the palate. A perfect way to end a perfect dinner, leaving you satisfied and looking forward to the next time.

In addition to greatly enjoying our dinner, we learned a few things about Thacher Winery from GM Tony Quealy. Production is about 5,000 cases, of which about 65% is Estate. Estate growth is being expanded, including plantings of Mencia, a red grape grown in Spain and Portugal, as well as a mixed white field blend. The logo for Thacher Winery is a grasshopper, based on the Thacher family crest going back to Sherman’s English heritage. And shortly after we attended the dinner, we learned that Brenna Hill had been promoted from Cellar Lead to Assistant Winemaker at Thacher.

We want to thank Tam O’Shanter management and staff for an excellent dinner, both in food and service. We have never felt better taken care of. We are looking forward to the next wine dinner to see what imaginative dishes Executive Chef JC will come up with, although we will definitely be revisiting Tam O’Shanter before then. And the Thacher Winery and Vineyard will be on our agenda the next time we are in Paso Robles, one of our absolute favorite stomping grounds.

Thacher Winery & Vineyard

www.thacherwinery.com

8355 Vineyard Dr, Paso Robles, CA 93446

The Tam O’Shanter Restaurant

www.lawrysonline.com/tam-o-shanter

2980 Los Feliz Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90039Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Arizona Celebrates Its Women in Wine

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Known for its three wine regions of Verde Valley, Wilcox and Sonoita/Elgin, and tasting rooms throughout the state, Arizona is an emerging wine producer–creators of many wonderful wines and there are more to come with a bevy of emerging wineries.  Although its history goes back to the 1700s, it was discovered as a wine growing destination in the 1970s when it was identified that Arizona’s soil possesses the same unique terra rossa soil as France’s Burgundy region. 

Among the jewels Arizona possesses is an extensive roster of incredible female winemakers, who are among industry leaders in their craft. 

Among them:

Kelly Bostock, “Wineworker” and Co-owner of the renowned Dos Cabezas winery.

Since 1995, Dos Cabezas WineWorks has been growing grapes and producing wines in Southern Arizona. Originally located in the Kansas Settlement, the winery and 80 acres of vineyards were pioneered by the late visionary, Al Buhl. Todd Bostock joined the team as winemaker in 2002 and by the end of 2006, the Bostock family took over operations of the winery, and it was moved to Sonoita where it resides today.  The winery is supplied with distinctive, high-quality fruit from its two estate vineyards: Pronghorn Vineyard in Sonoita, and Cimarron Vineyard in the Kansas Settlement.  Kelly and her husband have been named “top 10 winemakers to watch” by San Francisco Chronicle. They work with the Vera Earl Ranch located behind their winery to supply them with sustainably raised beef.  They continue to adapt their vineyard to be more water conscientious. They started replacing blocks of drip irrigation with subterranean irrigation to eliminate evaporation and animal damage.

Kris Pothier & Kim Koistinen, Co-owners, label artist, General Manager and cellar rat, Chateau Tumbleweed

Located in Clarkdale, Arizona, Chateau Tumbleweed, owned by  Kris Pothier, her husband, Joe Bechard, Kim Koistinen and her husband Jeff Hendricks, Chateau Tumbleweed has a wonderful patio that looks out over Sycamore Canyon–on clear days you can see the San Francisco peaks. Chateau Tumbleweed sources fruit from Willcox from 12 different growers. They work with many varietals: Picpoul Blanc, Viognier, and Chardonnay are their main whites. For red they love: Sangiovese, Syrah, Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Montepulciano, Cabernet Franc and Grenache. They purchased the acre adjacent to their property and are putting up a barrel room. 


Gayle Glomski & Lauren Maldonado, co-owners,  Page Spring Cellars

Gayle Glomski, who, with her husband, launched Page Spring Cellars in 2003, not only makes incredible wines but also has transformative programs in Yoga, massage & hope dancing, which Gayle leads.  The winery’s goal is to create delicious wines that express the unique character of its sunny Arizona landscape. Their wines and winemaking convey their philosophies concerning family, education and living life to its fullest.

Lauren’s foray into the wine industry began when she settled in Sedona. In 2013, Lauren joined Page Springs Cellars, outside of Sedona, serving many capacities from tasting room worker to tour guide. She joined the vineyard crew and helped farm their vineyards for four years as the only female on the crew. Lauren recently opened uptown Sedona’s premier wine bar and tasting room, The Art of Wine. which offers over 40 local Arizona, U.S. and international wines by-the-glass or for sampling. Their 350-bottle wine shop is a must-visit for oenophiles. 

Lisa Callaghan, Co-owner, Callaghan Wines

Since 1990, Callaghan Vineyards has been perfecting their vintages and winning numerous awards.  So much so in fact, that their wines have been served at The White House four times.  Lisa’s wine includes one estate white–a blend of Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, Malvasia Bianca, Clairette and Petit Manseng. The object is to produce an uncommonly nuanced white wine with great freshness and flavor “chew.”  As with all of their wines, their primary concerns are depth of flavor and complexity. 

Peggy Fiandaca, Owner/Brand Manager, LDV Winery

After an incredibly successful career in Urban Planning, Peggy and her husband set out on their “second act” – wine. Wine was always a passion they shared; they traveled the world drinking, collecting, and absorbing everything they could about wine. They are often asked if owning a winery was their lifelong dream, but it was purely serendipitous (or a mid-life crisis). LDV winery sits on a 40-acre property, grows Rhone grape varieties, and produces about 2,500-3,000 cases per year. On a day to day basis, Peggy is responsible for strategic planning and analytics, wine marketing, public relations, sales, tasting room operations, contracts, regulations, trademarks, website, social media and all staffing. Peggy has served on the Arizona Wine Growers Association board as Secretary and President for two terms. She is a member of Les Dames d’Escoffier International and Women at the Top, a female business owner networking group.

Carla Milić, Wineworker, Los Milics Vineyard

Carla was born and raised in Chile, but the bulk of her training has been in Sonoita with local winemakers. She took a few courses at the University of California, Davis and also assisted during a harvest in Chile. Los Milics Vineyard is located in Elgin; it sits on 20 acres with 12.5 acres being under vine. Since the winery opened for tastings, Carla is responsible for greeting guests and guiding them through their tasting and providing tours of the construction site where the new tasting room and casitas will be located. Once harvest peaks, Carla will be receiving fruit, processing, cleaning, and monitoring fermentations. Her favorite part of the job is nurturing vines from infancy through their entire growth cycle. Carla continues to be inspired by other independent and hardworking women in the wine industry.

Los Milics Vineyards grows grapes that thrive in this unique terroir, 5000-foot elevation, and climate. They have recently opened a new tasting room, which was designed by Chen+Suchart Studio in Scottsdale, is clad in weathered steel and flanked by large monoliths that guide visitors from the parking lot through the vineyard into the space. The interior is oriented to frame dramatic views of the Mustang Mountains, including The Biscuit, an iconic rocky landmark. Later this year, they are opening nine onsite casitas and a Spanish-influenced restaurant on the property.

Julia Dixon, Winemaker, 1764 Vineyards

Julia Dixon’s love for wines began in 2012, and after graduating from viticulture and enology studies at Yavapai College in 2016, Julia and her husband founded 1764 Vineyards located in Pearce, AZ. Today, Julia is the head winemaker at their 30-acre property working with Petit Verdot, Picpoul Blanc, and Vermentino varieties.

Lisa Strid, Aridus Wine Company

Lisa Strid is the winemaker at Aridus Wine Company in the beautifully mountainous region of Willcox, AZ.  At Aridus, Lisa oversees all of the production processes from grape to bottle. She finds winemaking calls on many different skills, such as using science and sensory analysis on a daily basis. Being flexible and pragmatic while bringing an artistic perspective at the same time can be a delicate balance.

Brooke Lowry Ide, Winemaker, Vino Stache Winery 

Brooke’s winemaking journey began in 2014 when she enrolled at Yavapai College studying viticulture and enology. She has interned at Four Eight Wineworks, Caduceus Cellars, Merkin Vineyards, and Callaghan Vineyards. In 2019, she began her one-woman operation at her own winery, Vino Stache Winery. She has delayed planting on her 54-acre property, but is building her brand with fruit sourced from several Arizona growers. Her first wines were bottled in 2021.

Megan Stranik and Shannon Austin Zouzoulas, Co-Owners, AZ Hops & Vines

Megan was introduced to the world of winemaking at Sonoita Vineyard where she spent a year as a volunteer, helping tend the farm. For many years after, she worked at various wineries learning the process of winemaking, but owning her own winery was always her goal. Today, she co-owns AZ Hops & Vines with her sister, Shannon, where you can almost always find her tending to the vineyards. 

Shannon grew up in Southern California and attended the University of Maryland. After returning to California, she began volunteering at wineries and festivals and began conspiring with her sister on how to get into the industry themselves. While her sister handles viticulture and oenology, Shannon was inspired in the marketing, hospitality and agro-tourism side of the business. She spends her days creating fun events, meeting great people, trying new wines, and marketing their winery.

Monica Preston, Owner, Birds & Barrels Vineyards

Monica Preston founded Birds & Barrels Vineyards on 50-acres of land with her husband Chad in 2015 with the goal of crafting ultra-premium Arizona wines. Though she does not have a background in viticulture, her passion and drive to learn has been helpful on this adventure. Monica handles water management, herbicide and pesticide management, fertilizer regiments in the vineyard, vine assessments, petiole, and fruit sampling prior to harvest. She also handles the wine club and Founders program planning and coordination. Though they have been called crazy many times along this journey, they remain ambitious and plan to expand while planting in 2023.

Valerie Wood, Heart Wood Cellars

Valerie Wood moved to Arizona with her husband Daniel in 2009 for a new lifestyle and plans to contribute and participate in the growing sector of the Arizona wine industry. In 2013, she began studying viticulture and enology at Yavapai College in the Verde Valley while working part time at the Yavapai College Southwest Wine Center planting the college’s new vineyard. In 2015 she graduated with honors and her degree and was invited to join the Four Eight Wineworks-Caduceus Cellars winery family. In 2016 Heart Wood Cellars released its first vintage following the guidelines of their business model – to craft wines they love and want to share with others.

Desiree Gerth, Owner and Winemaker, Strive Vineyards

Desiree Gerth moved to Arizona with her husband shortly after graduating from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. While on a weekend vacation to Arizona wine country, they decided to try to make their own wine with a home winemaking kit purchased from a local brew shop. Though the first batch was undrinkable, they persisted, first creating an in-home winery and then looking for their own land in Willcox. She and her husband, with the help of family and friends, have built everything themselves from the ground up – fencing, gates, irrigation systems, trellis systems, utility sheds and more. They are completely off-grid utilizing solar power for their well pump and green, sustainable farming practices. In 2018 she began her professional winery career at Golden Rule Vineyards, and today oversees administration and operations for Strive Vineyards and works in all areas of wine production, winery management, and operations at Cochise Wine Co

Ann Roncone, Owner/Winemaker, Lightning Ridge Cellars

Ann was born and raised in the San Francisco Bay area. She worked an office job and winemaking was her hobby. For about five years, she read books on winemaking and viticulture, planted vines at home, took courses at the University of California, Davis, and worked harvests at local wineries. When she and her husband decided to pursue a career in wine, they couldn’t afford land in California, and decided to visit the Arizona viticulture area as her husband had gone to college in Tucson. In 2003, they purchased land in the Sonoita/Elgin AVA and in 2004 they began the process of starting a vineyard and winery from scratch. Lightning Ridge Cellars is located in Elgin and specializes in Italian varietals. It is hard to say what she enjoys most about winemaking, but the amount of time she spends outside is definitely among the top things.

Kim Reed, Assistant Manager/Wine Club Coordinator, Javelina Leap Vineyard, Winery & Bistro

Kim came into the wine industry somewhat by accident after working in a community care and hospital as a Registered Dietitian for 10 years. Her in-laws, Rod and Cynthia Snapp own Javelina Leap, and when her husband Lucas took over as GM and head winemaker, it was quickly apparent that he was going to need help. In March 2020, Kim joined the family business, initially as the Wine Club and Event Coordinator. Since then, her role has grown to include helping the tasting room manager, serving as office manager, booking bands, shipping wine, answering emails and filling in the gaps wherever needed. Most of her wine knowledge comes from being around the business and family the last seven years, however she will be pursuing a Level 1 Sommelier certification in the future.

Lori Dutt Reynolds, Winemaker, Sonoita Vineyards

Lori is a third-generation winemaker in Arizona with a Certificate in Enology and Viticulture from the University of California, Davis. She was inspired to join the wine industry by her grandfather, Dr. Gordon Dutt – the founder of the Arizona Wine Industry. Lori loves the art and science behind creating wine and her favorite parts of the job are blending wine and working in the vineyards with her family. It is important to her to have her children involved in Sonoita Vineyards to work and learn the wine industry firsthand like she did.

Perlises Pick St. Anne’s Crossing Winery

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Driving on the Sonoma Highway just north of Kenwood, it would be virtually impossible to miss seeing St. Anne’s Crossing Winery, even if you weren’t looking for it. After all, how many other wineries have a 28-foot tall bear standing guard over their tasting room?

The Bear is a sculpture created by Sonoma County artist Bryan Tedrick, who is also responsible for two other large sculptures on Wilson Artisan Wineries properties – the Coyote at Wilson Winery in the Dry Creek Valley and Lord Snort, the giant wild boar at Soda Rock Winery in the Alexander Valley. In addition to its massive size, what contributes to the Bear’s uniqueness is that in addition to being constructed from recycled materials from various sources as is Bryan’s wont, some of the steel used came from the remains of the Soda Rock tasting room which was destroyed in the 2019 Kincade fire.

But the Bear is not the only thing that’s special about St. Anne’s Crossing. The property itself has a rich history. The Wilsons acquired the winery in 2012, which was the original site of St. Francis Winery and later Blackstone Winery. Chris Barrett, the winemaker at Pezzi King from our previous article, also makes the wine here. And remember that we mentioned awards? Well, read to the end of this article for some big news – and no peeking until you get to the end!

Tasting Room Associate Hailey Unger did a great job in tasting us through several of the St. Anne’s Crossing wines:

2020 Los Chamizal Pinot Noir – 100% Pinot Noir from the Los Chamizal vineyard in the Sonoma Valley AVA north of town of Sonoma. Delicate nose with hints of cherry notes. Gold Medal at the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

2020 Estate Merlot – 100% Merlot from the estate vineyard that was planted in the 1970s in the Sonoma Valley AVA. The vineyard was right behind us as we enjoyed our tasting. Great depth and a lingering smokiness on the finish.

2019 Five Saints Red Blend – Sonoma County, from Dry Creek and Sonoma Valley AVAs. A blend of the five major Bordeaux red varietals: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Fragrant white pepper on the nose and an abundance of stone fruit. Medium to long finish. 

2020 Shumahi Primitivo – 100% Primitivo, Sonoma Valley AVA. The vineyard is located in the hills near the town of Glen Ellen and is named for the vineyard owners’ German Shepherd dogs – Schultz, Max and Heidi.  Dark, ripe fruit notes with an effortless, elegant finish.

2020 Bacigalupi Zinfandel – 100% Zinfandel, Russian River AVA.  Touch of cranberry on the nose and brimming with satiny, buttery notes.  Full mouth feel and a long, sustained finish. 

2020 Five Valleys Zinfandel – 100% Zinfandel, Sonoma County (includes Rockpile, Los Chamizal and Bacigalupi vineyards, among others). Deep purple/blue fruit. Classic Zinfandel – huge and steady on the long finish. Gold Medal at the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.        

2020 Rockpile Zinfandel – 100% Zinfandel, Rockpile AVA. White pepper on the nose, licorice notes, sense of finesse, long, luscious finish. A great example of why we love Rockpile! Gold Medal at the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

2020 Los Chamizal Malbec – 100% Malbec, Sonoma Valley AVA. Awash with ripe black cherry notes and a hint of cocoa on the very long smooth finish. We saved the big news on this wine to the end: It was the Red Sweepstakes Winner at the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition! Check out this interview of winemaker Chris Barrett by Barbara Russack, DTC Sales Manager at St. Anne’s Crossing to learn more about this wine: www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeKHdKVtBF8&t=29s.

Kudos to Chris, Barbara and the entire St. Anne’s Crossing team including the bear and many thanks for taking such great care of us.  The group of Wilson Artisan Wineries always delivers great wines and great experiences too.

St. Anne’s Crossing Winery

www.stannescrossing.com

8450 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood CA 95452Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Discovering Moraga Bel Air

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All I knew about Moraga Bel Air wines is that they were founded in 1989 and that the vineyards are indeed in Bel Air, California. When they offered to send me one of their whites and a red, and join in on a Zoom meeting with their new winemaker Paul Warson, it was a great chance for me – and you – to discover much more.

Learning More About Moraga

Great day for a Zoom meeting – said no one ever. But this one, where we didn’t have to brace the storms in Los Angeles of late to meet in person, was well worth it. The meeting was led by Moraga Bel Air winemaker Paul Warson, who joined the winery in 2021. Here are some of the things we found:

  • Warson is a seasoned winemaker with roots at UC Davis. He has made wine in places such as Australia, Napa and the Central Coast. His longest tenure was with Foley and their Firestone property.
  • Warson feels that Moraga is best experienced by visiting the winery, the cave and with a tasting. Marketing Director Philip Cavanagh explained that reserved tastings include four of their current releases as well as tastes from their cellar, accompanied with a cheese and charcuterie selection from the Beverly Hills Cheese Shop. Each tasting runs 90 minutes to two hours, can accommodate four and upwards of 150 guests in a corporate gathering. Reservations can be made via email with Philip@MoragaBelAir.com
  • There will be a new second label coming out in the next month or so where 20% of the sales will be going to charity. The wines will be non-vintage and a made from a collection of Moraga grapes.
  • If you check out their Facebook page you may see a few posts with photos of sheep grazing in the vineyard. Though the sheep are now gone, their work completed within about 14 days, they will be back. The vineyard is now experiencing bud break.
  • Warson said that everything they need to make wine is at Moraga Bel Air. From red fermenters to the wine press to stainless steel drums and barrels. The cave itself is never above 60 degrees. “It’s a Fantasyland,” Warson said, “it’s a lot of fun and it’s easy.”

Tasting Notes (My notes follow theirs, noted as EB in italics.)

2019 White (Not stated on label: Sauvignon Blanc) 14.7 alcohol.

From the website: Golden in the glass, it begins with lush aroma of white peach, nectarine and white flowers. The palate opens with a flash of acidity followed by smooth waves of honey-dusted nectarine and seared stone fruit. The exotic fruit and mineral characteristics of our vineyard dominate the flavor profile. The wine is an atypically long-lived Sauvignon Blanc. $92

EB: A decadent Sauvignon Blanc with amazing aromas and flavors of white peach, lemon-lime soda, cantaloupe melon, Meyer lemon zest with a beautiful mouthfeel that just lingered on the palate forever. Warson said that the wine was made in a Bordeaux style, and had a generous amount of flintiness. Another reviewer on the Zoom call noticed a salinity. I went back in for another whiff and it did remind me of an ocean breeze. The property, Warson said, is four miles from the Santa Monica Bay.

2017 Red (Not stated on label: Cabernet Sauvignon) 14.7 alcohol.

From the website: There is a unique and identifiable Moraga signature of soft tannins, supple texture, pure black Cabernet fruit, currant and tobacco. This vintage shows black cherry, roasted coffee and a hint of caramel on the ripe nose. Polished tannins and fresh acidity deliver flavors of blackberry jam, truffle, vanilla, and caramel. $140

EB: This wine, a Bordeaux blend that included 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 1.5% Petit Verdot and 1.5% Cabernet Franc, blew my socks off. It was BIG with notes of red to blue fruit, black peppercorns, bark, smoke, and chocolate with dried cherry bits. Big fruit with equally big tannins allowed for an extremely long finish. The wine, after some time in new French oak, had spent 26 months in the bottle before its release. Warson plans to “dial it back” but I was plenty happy with how this red presented.

https://www.moragabelair.com/

https://www.instagram.com/moragabelair/

https://www.facebook.com/MoragaBelAir?ref=br_rs

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 17k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Las Vegas Proof Awards, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Virginia Wineries Association Announces Virginia Governor’s Cup® Gold Medalists

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RICHMOND, Va., /PRNewswire/ — The 2023 Virginia Governor’s Cup® Competition marks another record-breaking year for the Virginia Wine industry. With 614 entries from across the state, 66 wineries in the Commonwealth were awarded with 142 gold medals.

In its 41st year, the competition has garnered a reputation for being one of the most stringent in the nation while highlighting the most outstanding wines, ciders and meads being produced in Virginia. Medals are awarded after a series of rigorous blind tastings by a prestigious panel of judges, led by competition director Jay Youmans, Master of Wine. To receive a gold medal, a wine must receive an average score of 90 points or higher on a 100-point scale.

“The Virginia Wineries Association is thrilled to announce this incredible number of gold medal winning-wines,” said Virginia Wineries Association President George Hodson. “The gold medals span eight regions and are crafted with over 20 grape varieties all grown in Virginia, producing quality wines expressive of their farms and the Commonwealth of Virginia.”

Youmans added, “The overall quality of the wines was the highest we have seen. Leading the way are the red blends, many of which are produced in a Meritage style, Petit Verdot, Petit Manseng and Cabernet Franc.”

These categories spotlighted by Youmans account for over half the medals with 28 red blends, 24 Petit Verdots, 16 Cabernet Francs and 11 Petit Mansengs taking home gold medals. In addition to the top wine categories, nine ciders also earned a Gold Medal.

Along with the diversity in styles of wine, the gold medal winning producers are located across Virginia. The Central Virginia region was awarded 72 medals, Northern Virginia received 39 and the Shenandoah Valley received 20. The remaining medals can be found in the Blue Ridge, Chesapeake Bay, Hampton Roads, Southern Virginia and Virginia Mountain regions of the state. For a full list of gold medalists, visit: www.virginiawine.org/governors-cup/awards.

On February 23, the Virginia Wine Board hosted Virginia Governor’s Cup® Gala at Richmond’s Main Street Station and unveiled the competition’s top awards—the Governor’s Cup® Case, consisting of the 12 highest-scoring red and white wines, Best in Show Cider and the coveted Governor’s Cup®.

Beginning March 1, Virginia Wine fans eager to taste the winning wineries can sign up for the complimentary Gold Medal Wine Trail, a mobile passport that features the 66 gold medal winners. As users check-in at participating venues, they will unlock access to exclusive prizes and special offers. For more information or to pre-sign up for the Gold Medal Wine Trail, visit: vawine.info/gold.

About the Virginia Governor’s Cup® Competition

The Virginia Wineries Association’s Governor’s Cup® is held in partnership with the Virginia Wine Board. All entries must be made from 100% Virginia-grown fruit to be eligible. Each wine is ranked based on a unified scoring system. For more information about the Virginia Governor’s Cup® Competition and for a full list of winners, visit: www.virginiawine.org/governors-cup.

The Moon Mountain District Winegrowers Association will hold Reach for the Moon On June 3

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SONOMA, CA – The Moon Mountain District Winegrowers Association will hold Reach for the Moon!, the inaugural Moon Mountain District Master Class and Grand Tasting on Saturday, June 3, 2023 at the Gallo Family’s historic Monte Rosso Vineyard. 

Renowned wine authority and Vinous critic Antonio Galloni will host the Master Class, featuring a curated selection of wines made from celebrated Moon Mountain District sites, which are illustrated on Vinous’ groundbreaking new map of the region. A private tour of the Monte Rosso Vineyard, hosted by Ranch Manager Brenae Royal, follows. The Grand Tasting will include a wider offering of small-production wines from 30 of the Association’s members wineries, presented with a special menu developed by Executive Chef Joseph Paire of Berkeley’s Claremont Club and Spa Hotel.

Wineries confirmed to present their Moon Mountain District wines at Reach for the Moon! include Kamen Estate, Louis M. Martini, Lasseter Family Winery, Repris Wines, Pangloss Cellars, B. Wise Vineyards, Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery, Bedrock Wine Company, Hanzell Vineyards and many more.

One of the country’s newer American Viticultural Areas (AVA), having been officially recognized in 2013, the Moon Mountain District has been home to carefully tended mountainside vineyards and small-production wines for over 130 years. The AVA is noted for its early efforts in organic and biodynamic vineyard practices dating to the 1980s. 

“Although the Moon Mountain District AVA is young, the region is steeped in history.” Antonio Galloni continues, “Reach for the Moon! will shine a light on the world-class wines being made in one of the most fascinating and storied viticultural areas in California.”

“As grape growers and winemakers in the Moon Mountain District, we carry on a generational commitment to serve as stewards of the AVA from which our highly regarded, small-production wines are sourced. Most of these wines are only available direct from the wineries or with limited distribution, so it’s a pleasure for us to share our wines at this first-of-its-kind event,” said Jim Momtazee, President of the Moon Mountain District Winegrowers Association and Proprietor of Moon Mountain Vineyard, Repris Wines and Pangloss Cellars. 

In recognition of the contributions of the Sonoma community to the success of the AVA, a portion of the proceeds will go to La Luz Center, supporting family services, economic advancement and community engagement. 

Reach for the Moon! tickets are available at  www.moonmountaindistrict.org/events  and include two ticketing options. The Full Pass Ticket is limited in availability and includes the Master Class, Monte Rosso Vineyard Tour and Grand Tasting, beginning at 9:00 a.m. Full Pass Tickets are $400 per person. The Grand Tasting Ticket provides access to the walk-around Grand Tasting where guests will enjoy wines from more than 30 Moon Mountain District wineries along with a substantial menu of food pairings designed to complement the wines. Grand Tasting Tickets are $250 per person.

Located on the Sonoma County side of the Mayacamas Mountains, the Moon Mountain District AVA descends from the tallest ridge peaks at an elevation of 2,200 feet, down the mountain slopes to an elevation of roughly 400 feet. The district’s western boundary rises above the towns of Kenwood and Glen Ellen and continues southeastward just above the city of Sonoma and reaches toward Carneros. Bordeaux varietals comprise the vast majority of plantings on Moon Mountain, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, while Chardonnay is the major white grape varietal. The AVA also produces Zinfandel and Syrah as well as other desirable Bordeaux varieties including Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, plus Pinot Noir from the southwestern edge of the AVA.

For more information and an overview of the wineries and growers within the Moon Mountain District Winegrowers Association, please visit the website at www.moonmountaindistrict.org. 

The “Potato Chips Extravaganza” + Classic Wine Tasting = One Day in Napa

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As a tenured wine journalist I’ve had to force myself to seek out new experiences for readers – even at times where I just want to visit my favorites again. So in my latest – and quickest – trip to the Napa Valley I visited the best of both worlds: a winery I loved when I had tasted through their wines with the owner but never visited, and another winery that offered a unique potato chip wine pairing.

Silver Trident Winery

We visited the Silver Trident Winery, forever to be known as the potato chip winery in my head, and their “Tasting Home” collaboration with Ralph Lauren right on the main drag (Washington St.) in Yountville. There were several classy living spaces to taste wine in: living room, dining room and library. And we decided to try the one and only POTATO CHIP EXTRAVAGANZA that Eater San Francisco named as one of the “22 Premier Wineries with Excellent Food” experiences in Napa.

In front of us on a round table was a large placemat divided into five sections that listed the wines, the potato chips to pair with each, and the round circle for where the glasses would be placed. I had seen it all before – but definitely sans chips! So I did my thing: when the wines were served I evaluated the aromas and flavors I found in each, and then went back to try them with the chips. Come to find that the owner had been given a bag of potato chips with a mini bottle of screw-capped wine on an airplane during the pandemic, and had the epiphany to create the pairing.

The chip pairings for our party were as follows: Symphony No. 9 2021 Sauvignon Blanc with Route 11 Sour Cream and Chives, Benevolent Dictator 2021 Pinot Noir with Zapp’s Cajun Dill, Playing with Fire 2019 Red Blend with Zapp’s Voodoo, Twenty Seven Fathoms 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon with Zapp’s Sea Salt and Twenty Seven Fathoms 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon with Kollar Chocolates Bittersweet Chocolate Chip with salt added.

My takeaways on the pairings were that while all of the chips were fun, my favorites were the plain salted chip and the chocolate covered potato chip with the extra salt brushed off.
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One of the people in my party liked the chocolate chip with the Sauvignon Blanc, and I have to admit that was different. General manager Shane Soldinger commented that the potato chip pairing “showcases approachability of the wine’s fruit and ripeness.”

As for the wines, I enjoyed them all for their perfumy aromas and good fruit. My favorites included the 2021 Sauvignon Blanc, 2019 Playing with Fire blend of Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, and both the 2018 and 2019 Twenty Seven Fathoms Cabernet Sauvignon.

The tasting room also offered non-wine items for purchase – every Yountville store front has to offer 25% of their space for retail – and at Silver Trident they had their own olive oil, coffee and candles among the Ralph Lauren furniture and accessories. You could easily make a day of it just visiting other Yountville wine tasting rooms, art galleries, the Kollar chocolatier and, if you want to go classic get a reservation at the French Laundry for dinner.
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Instagram: @SilverTridentWinery

Titus Vineyards

Next up I chose a winery I had never visited but I had the pleasure to taste through their wines with one of the owners, Eric Titus, in 2019: second-generation family-owned Titus Vineyards. The grounds were beautiful, as were the tasting areas both inside and out, the wines were buy-worthy, winemaker Stephen Cruzan even made time for us, and the welcoming tasting room hosts – thank you Drew – told us we would be “treated like family” when we returned!

Before moving onto the wine tasting we learned a couple of things from listening to and observing Drew that Napa wine lovers should know: There will be little to nothing offered from the big fire year, 2020, so stock up on what you need now. And if you are going to need to open a newly released Napa red do what is done in the tasting rooms, you can serve a wine that may have been opened 24 to 48 hours earlier and just re-corked. Like a great spaghetti sauce that only gets better the second day. Now to the wines, we tasted quite a few so I will share my favorites here:

2021 Sauvignon Blanc with 4% Viognier had beautiful honey, peach, cantaloupe and a nice minerality; their new 2021 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir with bold red to dark fruit, green peppercorn and balance, an easy sipper; 2018 Cabernet Franc with notes of dark fruit, dark chocolate, leather and gripping tannins; 2019 Family Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon with dark, dusty and lingering spice notes; 2018 Lot 1 Napa Valley red blend with aromas and flavors that reminded me of pipe tobacco, bark and blackberry; and finally, their new 2019 Imperatus Cabernet Sauvignon for its huge nose, and a perfect balance of fruit and spice on the mouth.

The winery is located almost at the corner of Silverado Trail and Deerpark Road, on the northern edge of St. Helena: 2971 Silverado Trail.

Instagram: @Titus_Vineyards

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Proof Awards, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Perlises Pick: Emmitt-Scorsone Wines

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We were very much interested in visiting “new to us” wineries on our trip to the Santa Rosa / Healdsburg area, and Emmitt-Scorsone definitely fit that requirement. Heading west from the town of Healdsburg into the Dry Creek Valley, we immediately encountered the change in scenery that is so common to wine regions. The road to the winery soon became only one lane in parts and we were thankful that the only car that we encountered heading toward us was small enough that neither had to execute any complicated maneuvers [like backing up!].

Still, we managed to arrive a little early and had a chance to talk to the owner of the property, David Merrill. He spoke fondly of his desire to just focus on tending to the grapes and his pleasure at having the Emmitt-Scorsone winery on site to handle winemaking duties, both from his estate grapes (the property, known as the Vinegrove, is about 32 acres with 7+ planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Petite Sirah) as well the ones the winery owners source from other areas.

We sat on the back patio – in a land of spectacular views, this is a great one – and were soon joined by winery co-owner and co-winemaker, Michael Scorsone. Michael became interested in the wine world early, moving to Napa after first graduating from the CIA in New York and then UNLV. He worked at wineries in Napa, Italy and New Zealand, eventually becoming assistant winemaker at Failla under Ehren Jordan [we’re big fans of Ehren from his days at Turley]. Michael then consulted for Fred Schrader of Schrader Cellars and then moved on to become head winemaker at Adobe Road for several years.

Michael’s assistant winemaker at Adobe was Palmer Emmitt. Palmer had a very different path to the wine world, having been an international level racing skier and then having a ten-year career working in feature film production. During that time, Palmer developed a passion for wine, eventually achieving advanced sommelier certifications from the WSET. He moved to Northern California to attend Sonoma State’s wine MBA program. As mentioned, he worked with Michael at Adobe and they made the jump in 2015 to start Emmitt-Scorsone.    

Emmitt-Scorsone actually has three labels.

Judge Palmer is named after Palmer’s grandfather. The focus of this label is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon from prestigious Napa Valley vineyards and relatively undiscovered Sonoma County sites as well as classic grape varieties like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

Domenica Amato is named after Michael’s grandmother – her immigration picture is on the label – and focuses on Rhone and Italian varietals.

Finally, the Emmitt-Scorsone brand is more value oriented and provides a good entry point to discovering the winery.

Michael asked if we had an interest in white wines or just wanted to focus on reds. If you’ve read our articles at all in the last couple of years you know what our answer was. Michael then asked “do you like getting a little funky with your whites?” We said “heck yeah” and we were ready to taste:

2019 Domenica Amato Vermentino – from the Mahoney vineyard in Carneros; part of the vineyard is in Sonoma and part in Napa. The wine spent 10 months in Italian clay amphorae. Meyer lemon notes, crisp medium finish with a kiss of saltiness, reminiscent of the ocean air.

2020 Domenica Amato Viognier – from the Salomon Vineyard near Kenwood in the Sonoma Valley. This wine spent ten months in neutral oak barrels. With a tart peach nose, this wine is luscious and rich and had a medium finish.

2019 Domenica Amato Gusto Bianco – a complex blend of 48% Viognier, 47% Grenache Blanc [both from Sonoma County] and 5% Fiano all the way from Clarksburg in Yolo County. It was light and bright with a tangerine nose.

2016 Domenica Amato Roussanne from the Bennett Valley.  An Orange Wine [i.e. skin contact white] that was interesting in all the good ways. Only made two barrels, very complex and fresh.

2019 Domenica Amato Barbera from the Dry Creek Valley. Cherry notes with bright clean fruit. Classic bramble notes but with finesse and elegance.  Very nice.

2018  Domenica Amato Gusto Rosso Estate Red blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petite Sirah, showcasing all the estate vineyard has to offer. Big and bright from the Grenache with a medium finish. Good rusticity with a very slight gaminess that makes you want another taste.

2018 Judge Palmer Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Terrace — the winery makes a few Cabs, this one is from their estate vineyard.  Just a couple of barrels made of this. The wine was concentrated and intense with great depth and a long finish.

2019 Domenica Amato Grenache Estate – 100% Grenache from the estate. A little light in color but not in bouquet or flavor with plenty of clean red fruit. Grenache as it should be made with no attempt to over-extract it. Delicious.

In wrapping up our visit, we asked Michael what he wanted people to know about Emmitt-Scorsone Wines. He responded that it was important that people realize that the winery is just these two guys with a passion for wine. They said to each other “let’s make wine” and started with only a couple of barrels. Production is small, just about 3,000 cases and they still do everything by themselves. Their passion comes through in every bottle.

Emmitt-Scorsone Wines

www.emmittscorsone.com

1830 Jameson Rd, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick: Soda Rock Winery

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A trip to the Healdsburg area wouldn’t be complete without visiting Antoine Favero. Antoine is a winemaker for several of the Wilson Family Wineries. We’ve met with him a few times at Mazzocco Sonoma in Dry Creek Valley [with a focus on amazing Zinfandels] and at Jaxon Keys in Mendocino County [love those Rhone varietals] but we felt we should expand our reporting so we agreed to meet at Soda Rock Winery in Alexander Valley, which specializes in Bordeaux varietals.

Pulling up to Soda Rock Winery should be very impressive for any first-time visitor. It sure was for us. Visible from the road is the towering figure of Lord Snort, who is directly in front of the sadly burnt-out husk of the original winery and tasting room that was destroyed in the 2019 Kincade fire. The winery building was about 150 years old and was the original site of the Alexander Valley general store and post office. Ken and Diane Wilson purchased the property in the year 2000.

By now, you might be wondering who is Lord Snort, whose photo is included with this article. Lord Snort is a 20,000 steel sculpture created by local artist, Bryan Tedrick. This is the second of his sculptures at a Wilson family winery property, being preceded by the Coyote sculpture at Wilson Winery in the Dry Creek Valley.

Lord Snort actually made his debut at Burning Man – check out this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=edNJ_uGzlmA – and the rumor is he will be there again.

We arrived at Soda Rock a little before Antoine got there and were greeted warmly by tasting room hostess, Madison. She gave us the option of tasting in the refurbished barn or outside among the trees right next to the vineyard and we chose the latter. Although Antoine had planned an afternoon of red wines for us, Madison poured us a couple of whites to get us started.  She also brought over some cheeses and charcuterie to nibble on, which are available for purchase with your tasting.

Kenneth Carl Sparkling Brut – blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a kiss of Pinot Meunier.  Notes of green apple, ripe pear.  Made at the Jaxon Keys winery in Mendocino but available at all of the Wilson family wineries. 

2019 Chardonnay Reserve West Soda Rock – Alexander Valley, 100% Chardonnay. Notes of lemon, blood orange and sweet honey.

By now, Antoine had arrived. It was such a pleasure to see him again. Not only is he a great winemaker but the passion he exudes for his craft is infectious. It had clearly rubbed off on Madison who continued to pour the wines and share her thoughts on them.

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Twisted Rail – Alexander Valley near Cloverdale   Named for a 2011 abandoned railroad tunnel fire that was originally built in 1898, this wine is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot.  Medium color and tannin, big and bright with notes of cigar and black cherry and a dry, clean finish.

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Five Star General – Alexander Valley.   95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Merlot.  The best of the barrels for each varietal go into this.  Chocolate, blue and black berry notes with supple and subtle tannins.

2018 Malbec Reserve Runway – Dry Creek Valley near the Mazzocco winery. 77% Malbec, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tangy and deep, but brightened up by the Cabernet.  Cherry, cedar and leather notes. 

2019 Cabernet Franc Warm Springs Ranch – Dry Creek Valley near Lake Sonoma, the wine is   93% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. These vines are at 1700 ft elevation; they get stressed from the high elevation, but are cooled by the nearby afternoon marine breezes. Fruit forward and very well rounded.

2019 Meritage Alexander Valley – Sonoma County. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot. Notes of dark plum fruit along with chewiness from the Cab Franc, with a full mouthfeel and a long finish.

2019 Lord Snort – Sonoma County. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot   We might have expected a wine named after a steel sculpture of a wild boar to be frivolous, but we should have known better. This was a serious wine, with lots of depth from the Merlot

2019 Zinfandel Wentworth – Sonoma County. It wouldn’t have been a visit with Antoine without a great Zin; this one is 75% Zinfandel, 20% Primitivo and 5% Petite Sirah. It is named after Fred Wentworth, the original owner of the Alexander Valley general store that housed the Soda Rock Winery before the fire.  Tart, fruit-forward, dark fruit, chocolate and vanilla notes, tinge of nutmeg and ginger, herbaceous.

2019 Primitivo Lytton Station – Alexander Valley. 96% Primitivo, 4% Petite Sirah. Persian cucumber nose with vanilla and cinnamon notes, refreshing and cool.

We really enjoyed all of these wines and highly recommend visiting Soda Rock Winery. There is so much local history in the refurbished barn saved from the fire that we found interesting.  It made for a leisurely wine tasting afternoon.  We would be remiss if we did not remind our readers of the Children of Vineyard Workers Scholarship Fund created by Ken and Diane Wilson in 2002 in collaboration with the Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Per the website, this fund has distributed more than $500,000 in scholarships. Antoine administers this program and was excited to tell us that one of their recipients had just gotten accepted into Yale. Wow, talk about life-changing!

Soda Rock Winery

www.sodarockwinery.com

8015 CA-128, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Please note there is also a tasting room in downtown Healdsburg:

409A Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.