Guide to Santa Barbara Wine Country, Courtesy The Leta Hotel

May 17, 2022 by evebushman

Santa Barbara County may be rightly famous for its reliably mild weather and sun-splashed scenery but these enviable assets have also made it a prized destination for wine lovers. Geography tells the story.

Several million years ago, the mountains that rose along the Pacific Coast of North America mostly ran from north to south. But here in what’s now Santa Barbara County, the nascent peaks decided to veer off course and sprinted the opposite direction: east to west.

This extraordinary geographic anomaly created a protected south-facing pocket of paradise, tucked between soaring peaks and offshore islands, where visitors and residents revel in a balmy climate amid stunning natural scenery.

It also gave birth to an exceptionally diverse grape-growing region that lured winemaking pioneers starting in the 1960s. The towering peaks and sloping hillsides funnel cool winds and fog nearly 40 miles from the ocean through river valleys. The result? Myriad microclimates and a superior environment for premium wine grape cultivation.

Santa Barbara County eventually earned an international reputation for world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Fast-forward to 2021, when Wine Enthusiast lauded Santa Barbara County as the world’s Wine Region of the Year.

No matter what varietal your palate prefers, you’ll probably find it here. Santa Barbara County vineyards produce more than 70 varietals, primarily Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Cabernet, in seven approved AVAs (American Viticulture Areas). More than 275 wineries speckle the landscape in rural northern Santa Barbara County and line the streets of cities, towns, and villages.

How to Choose With so many choices, what’s a wine lover to do? Start with a virtual visit to Santa Barbara Vintners, where you’ll find loads of info, including trails, maps, tours, and brief winery descriptions with links to websites.

Regional wineries range from rustic cottages to palatial manors. In recent years, the area has become known for its sustainable farming methods and holds a plethora of biodynamic, organic, and regenerative vineyards.

Short on time? Head to the Santa Barbara Urban Wine Trail, with more than 30 wine-tasting rooms in six neighborhoods on the South Coast. Many wineries have two tasting locations: downtown Santa Barbara and another close to north county vineyards.

Want someone else to do the driving? Check out these wine tour companies.

You can also maximize your time by focusing on tasting-room hubs. More than 40 tasting rooms line several walkable blocks in historic Los Olivos, a throw-back pioneer town about a 40-minute drive from The Leta Hotel.

Standouts include Coqueliquot, Larner, Future Perfect, Holus Bolus, and Blair Fox Cellars. Wineries also cluster in Lompoc, about a 50-minute drive from Goleta in wine country’s far western edge in the Santa Rita Hills.

Those in downtown Santa Barbara, just a 12-minute drive from The Leta Hotel, are a quick and popular option to try new regional wines, such as Melville, Santa Barbara Winery, Riverbench, and The Valley Project.

Select vintners will offer tastings on Friday evenings at The Leta Hotel from May through the summer. Past wineries have included Grassini, Fess Parker, SAMsARA, Carr, and Santa Barbara Winery. In addition, The Leta Restaurant serves several Santa Barbara County wines, including J. Wilkes Pinot Blanc, Jackson Estate Chardonnay, Point & Line Sauvignon Blanc, Carr Pinot Gris, Nielson by Byron Pinot Noir, Zaca Mesa ‘Z’ cuvée, Margerum M5 Rhône blend, and Refugio Ranch Barbareño. The VIP amenity wine is a Pinot Noir that comes from the oldest winery in the region, Santa Barbara Winery.

Wineries to Visit Here are a few top picks to inspire your adventures and give you a small taste of the amazing depth and breadth of Santa Barbara County wine country. Be sure to check hours and whether reservations are required or recommended.

Alma Rosa In 2005 pioneering winemaker Richard Sanford and his wife Thekla severed ties with their namesake winery and launched a new venture at their El Jabali vineyard estate in the Sta. Rita Hills appellation: eco-friendly Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyard. The Sanfords no longer own the winery and vineyard, but still play important roles as consultants and hosts. Winemaker Samra Morris, who hails from Bosnia, crafts small lots of single-vineyard Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Rhône varietals, and sparkling wines. Sample them in a stunning new tasting room with indoor/outdoor seating in downtown Solvang, a 40-minute drive from Goleta. Try to book a private tasting at the historic ranch house on the 628-acre estate, where the Sanfords planted the region’s first certified organic grapes in 1983. You can also sign up for vineyard hike-and-taste experiences.

Babcock Bryan Babcock has made wines since the early 1980s and helped establish the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. He’s also widely considered one of the best winemakers in the county and has won numerous awards for estate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and other wines. The family-run enterprise sits on Highway 246 near Lompoc on the western edge of wine country. This is a don’t-miss experience, not only because you’ll taste top-notch wines, but also amble around the hip and quirky tasting complex, which includes a huge, repurposed warehouse filled with an eclectic array of vintage furnishings, clothing, décor, and collectibles. Babcock continues to pioneer new techniques, most recently in regenerative farming.

Folded Hills Descendants of the famous Anheuser-Busch empire founders run this small winery, ranch, and farmstead in a magical country setting right off Highway 101, 30 minutes from The Leta Hotel. Wine grapes grow alongside 18 acres of organic row crops, fruit orchards, and a collection of animals that range from Budweiser Clydesdales, sheep, and goats to a camel and a zebra. The winery specializes in Rhône varietals and pours tastes in a contemporary space amid oaks and redwoods at the ranch, and in an upscale tasting room in Montecito, close to downtown Santa Barbara.

Gainey Vineyard The fourth generation of the Gainey family currently runs the vast Gainey Ranch, which encompasses nearly 2,000 acres of farmland and vineyard estates. The Home Ranch in Santa Ynez Valley produces Bordeaux varietals, while a property in the cooler Santa Rita Hills vineyard focuses on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. Try the various vintages at the Spanish-style hacienda or outdoors on the expansive lawn or arbor-shaded veranda — a fantastic spot for a picnic.

Buttonwood Winery & Vineyard Sip wine and picnic amid orchards, gardens, and groves of native buttonwood trees (aka sycamores) at this 106-acre working farm-turned-winery on Alamo Pintado Road, a five-mile country road that connects Solvang and Los Olivos. Buttonwood grows sustainably farmed Bordeaux and Rhône-style grapes in its 39-acre vineyard, and longtime winemaker Karen Steinwachs has transformed them into quality wines since 2007. Buttonwood’s flagship wines are Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernets.

Zaca Mesa The Foxen Canyon Wine Trail, which begins in Los Olivos, wends its way for 20 miles through some of California’s most scenic countryside. Chance Corbin, The Leta Hotel’s food and beverage general manager, says “Foxen Canyon is really the main trail in wine country. I always recommend it as it’s really popular with guests.” Zaca Mesa — a star along the trail — is a 1,752-acre property on a wild and rugged site the native Chumash called zaca, or “restful place.” The family-owned and -operated winery, established in 1973, specializes in handcrafted, single-vineyard Rhône-style estate-grown wines. In 1978 Zaca Mesa planted the first Syrah in Santa Barbara County; this vineyard block still produces low-yield grapes with intense flavor for the winery’s coveted Black Bear Syrah.

Tasting Tequila Codigo 1530 Rosa Blanco

July 30, 2021 by evebushman

During last month’s Nightclub and Bar show in Las Vegas I tasted Tequila Codigo 1530 “Rosa” Blanco. I learned that this particular tequila spends one month in uncharred Napa Cabernet French oak barrels and is the only tequila that has been approved to use a particular cross emblem from the Jalisco state in Mexico, as seen on the front and the bottom of the bottle. The brief tasting, and only knowing some of the stories behind the tequila, made me want to learn and taste more. Before reviewing it in full for Eve Wine 101 readers, I did a little research via their website.

Codigo 1530

Photo from the Nightclub and Bar show, credit: Edward Bushman.

Just going to their website will blow you away as it opens up with a gorgeous short film to learn how this tequila came to be, in three glorious minutes. The family in Jalisco behind it, their water source, the filtering process, organic yeast from a local bakery, no flavoring or chemicals are added and having “the right people…that have been growing agave all of their lives.”

They have five different types of tequila in their line-up – learn more about each of these award-winners via the film and the website. The Rosa is made with their Blanco that benefits from uncharred oak barrels from Napa, aged one month, and gained a beautiful color – and flavor – without any additional additives to make it so.

This recent article on VinePair shares even more interesting information: https://vinepair.com/articles/ntk-codigo-1530-guide/

The Cross

From their Facebook, regarding the cross embossed on their bottles I learned, “…Código 1530 proudly bears the Jerusalem Cross as the symbol of its heritage story. This iconic cross sits atop the Jalisco Coat of Arms and dates back to 1530 when after colonial struggle, Amatitán was officially recognized as a city of New Galicia and Jalisco was given a coat of arms by the Spanish monarchy, which was anchored by the Jerusalem Cross. Código 1530’s name honors ‘Los Códigos’, the old world codes and customs that shaped and still live on in Amatitán and the Los Bajos region to this day. These values are at the core of the proud families who served this tequila in their homes, and the artisan distilling family who has been the custodian of this private tequila for generations.”

The Tasting

After my brief tasting at the show, though I did benefit from having “ Bar Explorer” Collin De Laval (Instagram: @tilting_at_windmills_) there with me, I looked forward to sitting over a tasting and really getting my nose and mouth wrapped around this beautiful tequila. So here you go:

Greeted by the most delicate color of rose gold, and very leggy in my glass, I was ready to search my memory of what the aromas reminded me of and found: sweet cream, cling peaches, dried dark cherries, white chocolate and biscuit. On the palate I was rewarded with tingly flavors of dried red fruits and mixed nuts, with a rich and lingering creaminess coating my palate. Going in for a second sip, and using master mixologist Richard Paterson’s technique of allowing the spirit more time in my mouth before swallowing, I noted that the flavor just got richer and multi-layered. Though there are plenty of cocktails you can make with tequila, this is one I would sip, this is heady stuff.

https://codigo1530.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Howard Kleinfeld’s Latest: Cabernet Confessional…Look Out – Sip Happens

April 23, 2021 by evebushman

In 2014 I read and reviewed Howard Kleinfeld’s book, Dial M for Merlot. I had to go back and find the review, read it over and be reminded how much I liked it and the hero Justin James. Here’s a snippet of the story I shared:

Soon our hero is well-attached to the woman of his dreams, and new wine friends that introduce him to a world of wine tasting that culminates in a trip to VinExpo in Bordeaux, France. Once there the sinister plot begins to unfold involving a wine business magnate that is hated by his young sexy wife, her lover/his employee, an aged nun, a nunnery, a former business partner, most of James’ friends and soon James himself.

And the reason I wanted to read my review again: Howard Kleinfeld has a new book for me to review: Cabernet Confessional. And our hero, Justin James, would return! This time, according to the back cover, James’ “path leads him to Sonoma Valley in northern California where his life takes a new and totally unforeseen direction. Join him as he travels down a bumpy, wine country road where the ghosts from his past, his hopes for the future and his increasingly turbulent present collide in a fiery explosion of murder, mistaken identity and red wine. Lots of red wine.”

My review

Staring with the prologue, and a September 2019 lightning strike that “kills one, injures three” according to The Herald Tribune, we go back in time and place, to Palm Beach, Florida, to catch up with Justin on New Year’s Day, and what promised to be the best year of his life. It was the end of his first six months with what also appeared to be his soulmate/sexmate, a woman named Destiny Verrano.

From there we meet successful wine distributor Cosmo Koulouris and his not-so-successful son Klitos, leaving the question of a successor open: another door has opened for our hero with the “Golden Palate”.

Soon we are introduced to a set of characters in Timber Valley, California, an “old school wine country town” with new councilman and land-grabber Nigel Hathaway, Colonel Richard “Dick” Davenport fighting over eminent domain, and different townspeople that could go either way. Soon the path that Justin was on would intersect with those fine squabbling folks in Timber Valley.

Are you keeping up? I’m not one to reveal details or “spoilers” but just enough information to pique an interest. Howard, our author, has set a stage for mystery indeed, adding more characters and more wine as our mystery unfolds in Northern California’s wine country.

Before the tale has been told Justin will have more than one turning point. And while mystery does lead to mayhem and murder, for Justin it also leads to coming to an unexpected discovery of his true lineage, and how he is forever connected to some of the people in Timber Valley.

This discovery comes at the end of the book, and begs the question, how soon will Kleinfeld give us a third volume?

Look for Howard Kleinfeld’s books (may be listed as Howard K.) at Amazon, Barnes and Noble or https://howardkbooks.com

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Tasting “The Fruit of a Magic Formula” With Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, Owner of Col d’Orcia

March 12, 2021 by evebushman

A great invitation came my way to meet the owner of an Italian winery and taste three of his wines with about 40 other professionals. This time it was:

“…Join us via Zoom as Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, owner of Col d’Orcia, shares a first taste of his new 2016 Brunello di Montalcino 5-star release, together with two other top wines from his organically farmed estate…Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013 – another stellar, 5-star vintage – and Olmaia Sant’Antimo Cabernet DOC 2015 (great vintage as well!) All three wines are produced entirely with organically grown grapes farmed on the Col d’Orcia estate and bottled on location.”

Takeaways from Time with The Count

Let me start by saying that right off there was something Capra-esque and Cary Grant-ish about Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, as he warmly greeted our group from Col d’Orcia (pronounced Col-Door-Cha) with amazing photos of his property while wearing a vineyard colored green scarf and jacket that was in perfect “balance” for the scenery.

Fifty percent of the land in Montalcino is natural woodland.
They are located in a natural park, and a designated UNESCO territory.
The Count feels “a duty” to “protect the environment” that he has inherited.
There is an oak tree in the vineyard that is four and a half centuries old, and is a “symbol of care for nature.”
They have invested a lot into Research and Development. Though going 100% organic wasn’t so difficult as “little had to be done to do so.”
The Brunello is 100% Sangiovese grapes. The wine is made to be paired with food, which is the “concept of drinkability and food pairing.” The wine also has an “incredible intensity in aroma and taste.”
The soil is a mix of clay, sand and a high level of limestone that gives “quality” to the “tannins.”
Families, and their pets, have been on the estate for decades. As well as a bee population, grains to make pasta and other animals that live there include sheep, goats, poultry and pheasants.
“A happy winemaker produces a good wine…(and they also have) “the fruit of a magic formula.”
They grow Pinot Grigio, Vermentino, Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot and other wine grapes on the property.

Background

As one of the original estates of Montalcino and now the largest certified organic estate in Tuscany, Col d’Orcia is a leader in Brunello di Montalcino, helping to define and promote one of Italy’s most prestigious wine regions. Tradition, integrity and sustainability are the pillars of the estate, whose classic style wines are celebrated all over the world. Proudly defined as an ‘organic island,’ Col d’Orcia is committed to maintaining the natural environment in which it operates and has, for many years, employed organic farming practices.

About the Family

Col d’Orcia has a rich winemaking history dating back to the 1700s. Today, the estate is owned and managed by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano. A world traveler with boundless energy, the Count is a tireless ambassador for his estate as well as the Montalcino region. Under his leadership, plantings have expanded exponentially at Col d’Orcia and the estate has been transformed into an organic farm.

My Notes on the Wines (in italics), following notes from the technical sheets

Brunello di Montalcino 2016

14.5% alcohol. On aging, “4 years, 3 of which in 25-50 and 75 hl oak casks from Slavonia and Allier followed by at least 12 months of refinement in the bottles placed in storage at controlled temperature.” $59.99

This wine is a blend from all of the vineyards in the estate. Lots of red berries on the nose, as well as earth, Italian plums, and spice all in a nice balance on the nose. The taste delivered those same fresh and fruity red berries, tannins and a crispness noted by the Count.

Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013

15% alcohol, “The wine is aged a minimum of six years prior to release; four years in Slavonian and French oak casks followed by at least two years refinement in bottle.” $162.99

This Riserva is a limited release with less than 12 thousand bottles and could age for quite some time, according to the Count, 10 more years or so. The Count called it an “elegant” wine and none of us disagreed. The nose was huge with notes of red fruit again, but also whiffs from a well-tended vegetable garden, peppery and lots of minerals. Going in for a taste I found it both lively and spicy with medium tannins and acidity. I was craving the pasta I planned for dinner about now.

Olmaia Sant’Antimo Cabernet DOC 2015

14.5% alcohol. Aging notes include, “The wine is aged 18 months in new French oak barriques and a small portion in American barrels, followed by a further 8 months refinement in bottle.” $68.99

The name Olmaia means Elm Tree in Italian according to the Count. This Cabernet, of course, was nothing like the red fruit of a Sangiovese. It was all dark fruit, sweet tobacco, milk chocolate with a creamy balance between the fruit and spice on the nose; on the palate came the same notes, but also dark and dusty fruit, and what the count referred to as “herbs, spices and minerality.”

https://www.coldorcia.com/

Reviewing Hall Wines At Home

October 23, 2020 by evebushman

My experiences with Hall Wines over the years have included tours at both the Hall, Rutherford Hill winery and the original winery, that has had some incredible updating, on Highway 29. We also attended a Hall Cabernet Release Party that was really a showcase of all Hall wines and the wonderful local food. I try to share their press releases quite a bit as well. I had not, however, reviewed any of the wines from home in a long time. That changed when I received these two bottles for review. Both were very good and only make me want to visit them again.

2016 Kathryn Hall Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

16.1% alcohol

Observations only: Love a deep punt and a heavy weighted bottle, always makes me think the wine has extraordinary value. The color was a deep garnet with a crystal clear edge.

Aroma: Black pepper tickled my nose at first, and then a lot of black plum, crushed black cherries, red peppercorn, toasted oak and pipe tobacco.

Flavor: Very spicy up front with some redder fruit mid-palate, that same black fruit as on the nose, tri-color pepper, rich, tannic, dark with a long and drying finish.

Wine.com shows these scores: Robert Parker/The Wine Advocate 97, Wilfred Wong 96, Jeb Dunnuck 95, Vinous/Antonio Galloni 94, Wine Enthusiast 94.

From Wine Spectator, July 15,2020 issue, 96 points, release price of $185. Tasting notes: A beauty, with creamed plum, braised fig and melted black licorice notes that are long and deep, gliding through effortlessly and ending with a swath of espresso, loam and smoldering tobacco details.

Hard to resist now, but will cruise in the cellar. Best from 2021 through 2035. 6,600 cases made. — JM (James Molesworth, senior editor.)

My conclusion: Not to disagree with any of our experts, I’m somewhere between Galloni and Wong. Great wine!

Walt Wines 2018 Pinot Noir, Bob’s Ranch, Sonoma County

Observations: Dark cranberry in color with a dark gold edge. We had this with Pork Wellington and it was perfect.

Aroma: tart red cherry, earth, crushed leaves, round.

Flavor: red to dark cherry, red currant, very round mouthfeel – which I felt would come from the nose – long and tingly finish.

My conclusion: Though not a big Pinot fan I do appreciate the excellent fruit and care that went into this wine. I would not and did not stick up my nose against it. Would definitely drink again. And again.

Jeb Dunnuck 92 points, “…it offers an outstanding bouquet of bright black cherry and mulberry fruit intermixed with Asian spices, violets, and pine/foresty notions. Ripe, medium to full-bodied, and beautifully textured, this terrific Pinot Noir has plenty of classic Sonoma Coast complexity and elegance and will keep for 5-7 years.” $85

From Wine Spectator: This wine not rated, two other 2018 Walt Pinots, both from Santa Lucia Highlands, Rosella’s Vineyard and Sierra Mar were awarded 92 points each and the release price on both were $75.

Vintage Eve Circa Oct 2017, a Book Review: The Booklover’s Guide To Wine by Patrick Alexander

July 7, 2020 by evebushman

Okay all of you “book club” people, I know the real reason you meet: to talk about a book, yes, but while being well lubricated by fine wine, food and friends. So this book, The Booklover’s Guide To Wine by Patrick Alexander is just perfect for your next meeting, eh? Let me share a few pairings, and a bit of historical information, that I picked up from Alexander’s book, at nearly 400 pages and his sixth to author so far.

Authors Paired With Varietals

Image from FlavourfulWorld.com

I kind of expected some scientific approach to how to pair wine and books, but that was definitely not the case. Just like with your book/wine clubs it’s all about what you just might happen to crave while reading Jane Austen, Charles Dickens, William Shakespeare, Harper Lee and F. Scott Fitzgerald, to name a few.

I really don’t want to give it away – as you should just buy the book to see – but Austen with Chardonnay and Dickens with Cabernet pair well, because they both “have a universal appeal.”

Another interesting pairing is Alexander’s idea that authors, and some of the characters, have become winery or wine namesakes. Alexander cites Carl Doumani, former owner of Stag’s Leap Winery and now the owner of Quixote, for naming an organic Petit Syrah Sancho Panza and his Cabernet Sauvignon Quixote, important characters from the classic novel Don Quixote by Miguel de Cervantes.

What Else You Will Learn

From the preface through to the epilogue readers will learn everything from why the author has a dislike for wine critic Robert Parker that is completely logical yet surprising, basics on how to taste wine, read labels, naming different varietals, how to make wine, why sweet wines are popular, the connection between religion and wine, the difference between an American’s understanding of wine and that of a European’s in relation to terroir, what the 100 year war did to the wine industry, why the opinions on wine are so subjective and finally, why Alexander is “never happier than with a glass of wine in one hand and a good book in the other.”

From The Author

My book evolved out of the twelve-hour wine appreciation program I originally developed for the University of Miami and which I have been teaching here in Miami for the past six years. The book, like my program covers all the usual aspects of the grape but with particular emphasis on the history and the culture of wine, from Noah’s first vineyard to the arrival of Two-Buck-Chuck. I compare the concepts of terroir and varietal, and discuss the difference between New World and Old World wines. I also explore the reasons that England, a small wet, offshore island with no significant vineyards, should have had such an unparalleled influence on the world of wine. But what makes my book especially unique is its emphasis on the literary aspects of wine.

Throughout the ages, wine and literature have been closely connected. Whether we refer to the Bible, Homer, Shakespeare, John Keats or Marcel Proust, great literature is always filled with references or metaphors for wine. Mitchell Kaplan, the legendary founder of Books & Books – and co-founder of the Miami Book Fair – suggested the idea of pairing my favourite writers with my favourite wines. An inspired suggestion that resulted in a pairing of the Albarino vines of North Eastern Spain with J.R.R. Tolkien, or Chenin Blanc with Rabelais, not to mention the wines of Grüner Veltliner with The Good Soldier Švejekstumbling through our pages.

http://bookloverswineguide.blogspot.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Being An Armchair Wine Writer Again, and Focusing on Local Wineries to Support

May 1, 2020 by evebushman

I think it was the book Accidental Tourist where I first I heard the phrase “armchair writer” to describe the main character who was a travel writer that wrote from home. For me the phrase was apropos because when my daughter was under 18 I really didn’t want to leave her with a sitter to go out to a wine event, let alone a weekend or longer. Now with the COVID-19 and zero events to cover and zero travel plans, it’s time to dust off the chair and write about wine like I used to – more about supporting the wine industry itself and not about the events that drive it.

For my first, in what I hope will be a minimal series of armchair articles, I will focus on local wineries and what we can do to support them at this time. I sent emails to some of the wineries near me (which are also near to local readers) to ask how we can support them at this time, their current varietals available (and how we can get them) and any specials. Also, look for most of these wineries at the upcoming Vine 2 Wine 2 GO benefitting Circle of Hope set for May 30.

Photo from “Romancing The Vine” article in SCV Elite Magazine. Me and Eddie, maybe just short of 10 years ago.

Pulchella Winery

The winery is currently offering bottle sales for pick-up via the tasting room in Newhall, Fridays from 4pm-7pm and Saturdays from 1pm-4pm (call ahead, email orders, or walk ups welcome). Bottles can also be purchased via the website for shipment directly to your home.

They are happy to announce a few “stimulus packages” during this current “stay-at-home” time, which include: 20% off 6+ bottles (30% for members), 30% off 12+ bottles (40% for members), plus cases of 2014 Distinguished red blend are $150+ tax. They are also offering 50% off shipping costs via the website for all orders being shipped within CA.

Email customerservice@pulchellawinery.com for questions or orders, go to the website, or call the tasting room at 661-799-9463 to place an order. Feel free to leave a message with your order if you’re not calling during the limited hours above.

Golden Star Vineyards

Golden Star Vineyards is an Estate Vineyard and Winery in Los Angeles County with Estate bottled Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec; and locally sourced Viognier, Chardonnay, Syrah and Purple Haze. They are currently open Sat/Sun 12-5 pm for VINO2GO at the winery in Littlerock, CA with contactless curbside pickup, as well as free delivery within the greater Antelope Valley area (3 bottle minimum). Wine Club members get 20% off all wines and non-Wine Club get 15% off 3 bottle minimum. They are also offering 50% Off shipping in CA with a 3 bottle minimum. Please go to their wine store of current releases at:

https://goldenstarvineyards.orderport.net/wines/CurrentReleases or call 661-713-6660.

Hoi Polloi and Pagter Brothers, of the Double Trouble Wine Room

The Double Trouble Wine Room, featuring the wines of the Pagter Brothers and Hoi Polloi Wineries, is open for bottle sales Thursday and Friday 4 to 7 pm and Saturday and Sunday 2 – 5 pm. They sanitize every bottle before delivering. Guests can pick wines up inside at a socially approved distance or they’ll deliver curbside to your car. They will also deliver to your home (in the SCV area) with the purchase of 6 bottles or more. For case sales they will extend an additional 10% off on top of their usual discount. “If you are in need of a last minute bottle when we’re not usually open just email us and we can zip over and meet you.” They are also working on a Zoom concert and a Zoom tasting, “Not tasting Zoom, but tasting our wines with the winemakers giving tasting notes, more to follow. If you’re not receiving our emails, please send your email to Scott@PagterBros.com or DKMinnick@mac.com”

Parhelion Cellars

Parhelion Cellars is a small family owned winery in Santa Clarita. They have been dedicated to making outstanding wine since 2017, and carry a wide variety of wines: a Cabernet from the Mount Veeder region of Napa, a Zinfandel from Paso Robles, and a single vineyard Sparkling rosé from Clement Hills in northern California. These are just three of the outstanding wines they offer.

Please visit their website at parhelioncellars.com, where they are currently offering a 30% off discount by using coupon code F&F on all our products. They also always offer FREE non-contact delivery to LA County. After you’ve selected the wines that you would like, choose “in person pick up” and make sure you share your phone number. The winery will then contact you and schedule a date and time that is perfect for your delivery. You can also reach them by phone: 661-644-9478.

Entourage Two Papas Wine

Entourage Two Papas Wine is a boutique winery based in Valencia, specializing in Rhône varietals. Each wine is produced with meticulous care while allowing the grapes to fully express their full flavor potential. Their grapes are sourced from the two top Rhône varietal vineyards in Santa Barbara County, Thompson and Saarloos Vineyards.The current inventory includes: 2017 Saarloos Grenache ( $20- 90 pt WS), 2018 Saarloos Grenache ($30), 2017 Thompson Grenache ($35- 90 pt WS), 2018 Thompson Grenache ($37), 2017 Thompson Syrah ($35- 90 pt WS), 2018 Thompson Syrah ($37)
2018 Thompson GSM ($37), 2018 Thompson Grenache Blanc ($27) and 2019 Thompson Stainless Steel Chardonnay.

“Until July 1st we are offering discounts of 10% off our normal prices while ordering 3 or more bottles. Order a mixed case and the discount will go to 15%. Current and new members will receive a discount of 20%. As always, all orders within 30 miles will be delivered to your front porch, much like the milkman of the 60’s. Check us out at Entourage Two Papas Wine or call me (winemaker Rick Pratt) direct at (323) 974-7021.”

Coruce Vineyards and Winery Tasting Room

Located at 1055 West Columbia Way (Avenue M) in Lancaster, Coruce proudly features award winning wines of the Antelope Valley and Los Angeles County. They offer a variety of white and red blends as well as several vintages of single varietals like Zins, Viogniers, Chardonnays and “some lip smackin’ Syrahs.” They currently have a “screaming deal on some delicious clearance wines.” For the immediate future all purchases at their website (www.corucevineyardsandwinery.com) will be shipped for a flat $10 fee. They are open for purchases through pick up or delivery of bottles or cases. Hours are 1 PM to 7PM Thursday, Friday, and Saturday and 1PM to 6PM on Sunday. Call ahead at 661-494-8877 and “we’ll have everything ready for you to minimize contact time and number of people present at any one time.”

Byron Blatty

Byron Blatty Wines, which features locally grown, Los Angeles wines, is currently offering free, contactless delivery on all orders in the Los Angeles area, and are running several “Stay at Home Specials” which include 3 bottle packs of select wines for $99 + tax. (30% off). “We are also holding weekly tastings on Zoom every Friday, which are free to attend.” https://purchase.byronblatty.com/stay-at-home

SUPER TUSCANS DEMYSTIFIED and WHYNOT WINE SAVER SHOWCASE

March 20, 2020 by evebushman

Last month I got another look at the whynot wine saver (2019 article) and benefitted from the expert knowledge from the North American Sommelier Association president Diego Meraviglia, on what the heck a Super Tuscan is and how it came to be. The invitation is below, then my notes of what I learned and photos are here.

For decades and decades, a mystical and highly revered wine category has commanded sales, ratings, prices and stirred up awe and buzz across the wine-world and most of all in the United States Tuscan in origin, but international in spirit, “SUPER TUSCANS“ have represented some of the best bottlings to leave Italian soil, world-bound.

But what exactly are they? Not even an official category…SUPER TUSCANS blasted onto the wine world through contradiction, controversy and a pioneering soul in the 1960’s and were some of the very first Italian wines to make a name for themselves and Italy across the planet.

Very often misunderstood, misrepresented and erroneously explained and perceived, our mission is to shed light and clarity on a mystical and legendary Italian wine category that has little of official to begin with.

What Exactly is a Super Tuscan?

There are no rules about what a Super Tuscan has to be. According to Meraviglia the term was made up by the American press, namely a young Robert Parker that was sent a bottle to review. It gave a term to a popular wine without an appellation to define them.

Located in Central Italy, where they had learned that almost any grape varietal could thrive (just not Nebbiolo or Nordic grapes) due to the length of the growing season. Like California, they could focus on Bordeaux and Rhone varietals, and others like Zinfandel. The area benefits from super rich soil with limestone, and a mild climate that produces balanced wines.

There is some history Meraviglia shared as well. The area began with rich landlords during the feudal system where they built a castle, houses, a wall around it all and shared half of what they grew with the people that lived there.

The landlords soon decided there was a wine surplus and decided to sell some of it.

Sassicaia first appeared in 1968 and with that, Super Tuscans were born. It’s a Cabernet Sauvignon – a phenomenon in Italy at the time when these wines could only be labeled as a Red Table Wine. This wine got a lot of attention in the U.K. and the U.S., received high point scores and was very popular, with that the Super Tuscan term stuck. In 1971 Tignanello proved to be the second Super Tuscan.

So when you buy a Super Tuscan you are buying a brand label, not an appellation. All are different grapes varieties – and some may or may not include indigenous grapes. The wines are more like Bordeaux or California wines, basically made in a more international style.

We also learned a little about the different areas and soils which can be seen in the photos I took here. Find Super Tuscans being made in Chianti, Chianti Classico, Montalcino, Bolgheri and Maremma.

Laurel Glen Vineyard to Host Signature Sonoma Valley 2019 Retrospective

April 4, 2019 by evebushman

Glen Ellen, CA – Laurel Glen Vineyard, is pleased to announce it will host a very special tasting during the third annual Signature Sonoma Valley vintage retrospective, during the Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance’s flagship weekend event series. The iconic Sonoma winery will host the tasting at its eponymous Sonoma Mountain estate vineyard on Saturday, May 18, 2019 (from 2-4:30pm).

The tasting will bring together wine aficionados and collectors for an extremely rare showcase of Laurel Glen vintages across four decades. Current winemaker Randall Watkins will be joined by the estate’s founding winemaker, Patrick Campbell, as well as Proprietor and Managing Partner Bettina Sichel and winegrower Phil Coturri to provide ‘behind the vine’ perspectives. This special event will be moderated by Esther Mobley, wine critic and journalist at the San Francisco Chronicle, who will provide insight and perspective on the nuances of each vintage.

“We could not be more thrilled to host this year’s retrospective tasting,” says Sichel. “We are especially honored that Esther Mobley has accepted our invitation to moderate, and look forward to an illuminating discussion. We recently tasted through the 15 vintages we’ve selected to pour and were impressed with how well they showed. I cannot wait to share these rare wines with a new audience at Signature Sonoma on May 18th!”

The retrospective will commence with Laurel Glen’s debut 1981 vintage, and include a curated selection of 15 vintages spanning four decades that demonstrate the winery’s consistent depth, elegance and focus. The winery’s signature sophisticated style has never wavered since it joined the ranks of first generation “cult” Cabernets from California in the 1980s, and – thanks to the ongoing policy of holding back a portion of cases upon release – Laurel Glen has become known for its deep library of wines from the 1980s, 1990s and 2000s; many of which are featured on some of America’s most prestigious restaurant wine lists, including French Laundry in the Napa Valley, Mastro’s Steakhouse in Houston and Gotham Bar & Grill in New York City.

Though tickets for the Signature Sonoma Valley retrospective are nearly sold out, Laurel Glen will also offer a special library flight the weekend of May 17-19 in the estate’s Glen Ellen tasting room. The Cabernet Sauvignon vintages offered in the flight will evoke the spirit of the retrospective and include the 1986, 1999 Reserve, 2006, 2009, 2012 Lot 44. Cost will be $75 per person and guests should plan to reserve at least 48 hours in advance.

Laurel Glen wines will also be featured in the Legends: Collector’s Dinner at 6:30pm on May 18th, the capstone event of Signature Sonoma Valley, which celebrates the heritage vineyards of the region. Tickets can be purchased here.

Signature Sonoma Valley is an exclusive, four-day immersion into the acclaimed wines, historic vineyards and welcoming community of Sonoma Valley. Tickets for all events are now on sale and available at SonomaValleyWine.com/Signature-Sonoma-Valley. Seating is limited and all events will sell out, so early purchase is strongly recommended. For more information, please call 707.935.0803 or visit SonomaValleyWine.com.

“Signature Sonoma Valley shapes how wine collectors view Sonoma Valley as a wine region, and we could not be more thrilled to showcase over three decades of Laurel Glen vintages in the capstone retrospective tasting,” said Maureen Cottingham, Executive Director of the Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance. “Our greatest hope is that guests will leave Signature Sonoma Valley with a deeper connection to our vineyards and an appreciation for the caliber of wines coming out of Sonoma Valley, and Laurel Glen’s impressive track record more than supports that message.”

About Laurel Glen Vineyard
Laurel Glen Vineyard wines have a proven track record for longevity and grace. They are among the most sought-after examples of classic California Cabernet Sauvignon, and can thus offer a true study in how the variety can perform from a great vineyard site.

Originally planted to mixed red varietals by German immigrants at the end of the 19th century, Laurel Glen vineyard was replanted to Cabernet Sauvignon in 1968 on the eve of a modern proliferation of vineyards in California. Today, the 14-acre estate is farmed organically and planted entirely to Cabernet Sauvignon, and in particular the Laurel Glen clone of Cabernet Sauvignon, certified as a unique clone by the University of California at Davis.

In 2011, Bettina Sichel, a veteran of the California wine industry, became the steward of Laurel Glen Vineyard. Among other quality oriented improvements, she has overseen the vineyard’s transition to CCOF organic certification in 2014.

About the Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance and Foundation
The Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance (SVVGA) is a non-profit trade organization serving more than 500 members who share a mission to promote awareness of Sonoma Valley’s grapes, wine, and history as the birthplace of the California wine industry. Sonoma Valley comprises six of the 17 American Viticulture Areas (AVAs) of Sonoma County: Bennett Valley, Los Carneros, Moon Mountain District, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma Mountain, and Sonoma Valley. The Sonoma Valley Vintners and Growers Foundation (SVVGF) is a non-profit 501(c)(3) organization that has raised more than $25,000,000 through Sonoma Wine Country Weekend and supports youth and children for future success, preserving our environment, and improving health and welfare of our local communities. For more information on the SVVGA and SVVGF, please visit www.SonomaValleyWine.com.

Spain’s Greatest Destination Winery: Abadia Retuerta LeDomaine Part Two – The Pairing

February 22, 2019 by evebushman

Last week I wrote about the Abadia Retuerta LeDomaine Hotel, Winery, Refectorio and Santuario Spa north of Madrid, Spain after a splendid meeting with their General Manager Enrique Valero Quintana. I introduced readers to Tesse in West Hollywood, where our meeting took place, and gave you some information on their wine store. This week I will finish up by sharing the menu and wines that we tasted in the luncheon. (If you’d like to see the photos of the dishes and more click here.)

Our final course, DRY-AGED TBONE, and all of the wines.

Wine Reviews and Luncheon

HAMACHI CRUDO

sudachi, gooseberry, crispy wild rice

2016 Le Domaine Sauvignon Blanc/Verdejo

Lovely round mouthfeel filled with lush tropical bruit, pebbles and a mildly sweet finish. Some found the pairing to have a bit too much sharp citrus in the dish, but the fish was so fine and clean I felt that it worked, the wine served its purpose to rinse away the citrus and allow me to linger over the tender fish.

BURRATA

Oregon porcini duxelles, port, roquette

2014 Pago Negralada Tempranillo

2012 Pago Negralada Tempranillo

2014: This was my favorite in the tasting for the beautiful balance of plum and blackberry fruit and the tannins, followed by chocolate, coffee. (When I mentioned this at the end of our luncheon Quintana, who wouldn’t state his favorite said that the 2014 was the winemaker’s favorite as well.)

2012: A bit drier than the 2014, probably due to age and vineyard conditions that year, also showed darker black fruit, green peppercorn and tannins. The dish of smooth and creamy Burrata complemented both wines very well.

BEEF TARTARE “A L’HUILE D’OLIVE”

caper berries, shallots, grana padano, chive aioli

2004 Pago Negralada Tempranillo (Magnum)

The 2004 was Port-like, dried berries, dark cherry, tannic and a superb balance. The wine expanded some of the spice of the tartare; and this proved to be my favorite dish in the luncheon.

PORK BELLY

charred carrots, brown butter, boudon noir (blood sausage)

2015 Pago Valdebellón Cabernet Sauvignon

Lots of spice on this wine, then came rich dark fruit and cinnamon. This was quite a decadent dish with incredible richness from both the pork belly and blood sausage. I found that the char on the pork belly was quite enhanced by the wine, allowing for a sweetness to escape. I started to wish I had been there not for a wine luncheon where I could only taste, I wanted to linger over these pairings and finish all of the wines.

DRY-AGED TBONE

“old style” Pistou, charred broccolini, waffle potatoes, beef jus

2014 Abadia Retuerta Petit Verdot

Surprised to find red, blue and black fruits all on the palate – and very velvety – as well as spice, pepper. The T-bone was incredible. This again was a pairing I wish I could have completely consumed.

Tesse

From Ogron I learned that Tesse and the wine store is his “baby.” Eighty percent of the wine inventory is not sold elsewhere, and he hopes to get the “winemaker collector series (from Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine) if Enrique agrees.” I asked about the corkage fee if one were to buy from the store to have with their meal and learned that it is only $15.

From the website

Tesse is a French restaurant featuring the dynamic, continental-inspired cuisine of Chef Raphael Francois and Pastry Chef Sally Camacho Mueller, served in a chic dining room on Sunset Boulevard in the heart of West Hollywood. An extensive wine program from Jordan Ogron is supplemented by Boutellier, an exclusive wine store adjacent to the restaurant. A French-leaning craft cocktail program designed by Nick Meyer and Julian Cox is offered at the bar.

The restaurant’s name is a contraction of the French delicatesse, meaning ‘delicacy’ or ‘thoughtfulness’ — it’s also used across France as a colloquial term for charcuterie. And while the iconic pâtés, terrines, rillettes and saucisses of his homeland are central to the menu, Chef Raphael also features a broad and finessed take on French classics, with meats and fish prepared on the wood-fired hearth that anchors the kitchen and lighter fare inspired by near-daily trips to LA’s outstanding Farmers Markets.

Tesse’s menu is designed with wine in mind. The food pairs beautifully with a vast, interactive wine program designed by Jordan Ogron, which features nearly thirty wines by the glass and a list of more than three thousand selections. For those who prefer something a bit stronger, the craft cocktail program was designed by Nick Meyer and Julian Cox, the duo behind many of the most notable bar programs in Los Angeles.

https://www.tesserestaurant.com/

Abadia Retuerta Winery

The internationally recognized wines of Abadía Retuerta have enjoyed three consecutive years in the top 100 wines of the world, according the preeminent authority, Wine Spectator. While wines were produced on the estate centuries ago, the current winery is only two-and-a-half decades old and is known for its award-winning single terroir wines. The initial planting took place in 1991 with the first wines coming the following year. The estate covers 700 hectares of which 210 have been allocated to the vine, lying over a set of hillsides that reach a maximum height of 850 metres before sloping down to the southern bank of the Duero River…

The winery’s gold-standard wine is the Selección Especial, which reflects the essence of the estate – 75% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Proof of its superb quality, the 2001 Selección Especial was awarded “Best Red Wine in the World – Red Wine Trophy” in 2005 by London’s prestigious International Wine Challenge competition. In addition, Selección Especial is the first Spanish wine to be included for three consecutive years on the list of the 100 Best Wines in the World, which has been published annually since 1988 by highly regarded Wine Spectator magazine.

Other wines produced at Abadía Retuerta include: Pago Negralada, made with the best Tempranilla vineyard on the estate; Pago Valdebellón, from Cabernet Sauvignon; Pago Garduňa, a very intense, clean, fruity and mineral Syrah; and PV (Petit Verdot), an elegant wine with a limited production of 1,000 bottles per vintage.

The 2012 vintage of Pago Negralada and Petit Verdot have been ranked among “the greats” with 97 and 98 points respectively, according to the Gourmets Guide. For the 2014 vintage, Robert Parker Wine Advocate awarded Pago Negralada 92 points and Petit Verdot 93 points, along with 92 points for Pago Garduña and 93 points for Pago Valdebellón, which also won the Top Medal Master granted by The Drink Business Global Cabernet Sauvignon. Blanco Le Domaine 2016 scored 93 points in the Peñín Guide and 96 points in Guía Gourmets.

Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine