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Gigondas: The Roman Wine of Great Pleasure

September 26, 2013 by evebushman

Growing up in the suburbs of Los Angeles, my first experience with wine was in the Rancho Cucamonga Valley. This region is proud of their award-winning wines. Excelling in finely crafted Zinandel and Spainsh Sherry, such wineries as Galleano and J. Filippi became my frequent haunts. Growing up, I often enjoyed just a bit of Sherry with my mother. However, it was the Rhone varietals that particularly influenced my palate.

During my “college days,” my interest in Rhone varietals took me to California’s Santa Ynez Valley. The wines of Santa Barbara County so influenced my palate, I knew I would eventually make a career in the wine and spirits industry. This eventually led me to France, and of course, the Rhone Valley.

Today, I am once again joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Ivelisse Negroni. We are in the Dentelles de Montmirail foothills of southern France in the village of Gigondas. We are here to taste wines known to many as “the poor man’s Chateauneuf du Pape.” This is a red wine region and no white wines carry the Gigondas appellation.

main_variation_na_view_01_204x386-1Historically, the region was one of great importance and a recreational haven for Rome’s Second Legion. In Latin, “Jacunditas” translates as “great pleasure and enjoyment.” Seeing as the Gigondas appellation produces wines that are muscular and robust, they are a perfect match for the legionaries of the empire. These soulful wines are definitely rustic, edgy, and in your face. In short, Gigondas produces good, spicy, dry wines that can be cellared for 10 years or more.

For our first selection, Ivelisse chose a Guigal Gigondas Rouge 2009. On the eye, the wine is purple in color and striated with tinges of bright ruby. The intense nose is floral and dominated by peach, apricot, spice, and accented with licorice notes. This powerful and full-bodied wine is a blend of 70% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, and 5% Syrah. It is an earthy wine filled with minerals and spices, and packed with fruit flavors of blueberries and blackberries. Low in acidity, the Rouge has a lively and expanding finish. The alcohol content is 124% with a price tag of $35.

“I like that the Rouge has an attractive lushness along with fine density,” Ivelisse smiled softly.

“Indeed a suave wine that beckons to be drunk now,” I affirmed with calm finality.

Our next selection, Tardieu-Laurent Gigondas Viles Vignes 2010 exemplifies the Dantelles terroir.  It is a blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 5% main_variation_na_view_01_204x386-2Mourvedre. On the eye, it is opaque ruby. The nose is aromatically fresh and combines beautifully with concentrated dark fruit which eventually gives way to braised fig. On the palate, the wine is muscular, yet polished and caressing. Though fruit flavors abound, there are accents of spice and minerals with fine tannins. The finish is lively and persistent. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a price tag of $45.

“I particularly liked the nose on the Tardieu-Laurent,” Ivelisse gave a nod of approval.

“A spicy and well-delineated charmer that can be enjoyed over the next 10-15 years,” I added.

For our next selection, Ivelisse chose Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas Le Dieu Dit 2010. The wine is a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah an aged up to 5 years in small oak casks. On the eye, it is a vivid purple. While on the nose, it invigorates from the beginning.  There are aromas of red currant, plum, raspberry, lavender, and incense. On the palate, the flavors are fleshy and vivacious. Filled with raspberry, cherry, and a trace of licorice,  the wine is full-bodied and intense. The finish has excellent length with appealing sweetness and only a whisper of tannins. The alcohol content is 15% with a price tag of domaine bosquet$50.

“The complex bouquet had me from the start,” Ivelisse giggled softly.

“This is one of the finest wines I’ve had since we have been traipsing about Dantelles de Montmirail,” I flashed her a quick grin along with a nod of approval.

Our last selection, Saint Cosme Gigondas Le Claux 2011 is a classic Gigondas. It is 100% Grenache grown in the limestone soils of Le Claux and display the most minerality of the four wines in our tasting. The grapes of Le Claux are true sun-worshippers and love the hot, dry weather. On the eye, the wine is saturated ruby. The bouquet is especially perfumed with a striking floral elegance. There are complex aromas of dark berries, and Asian spices.
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This charming wine shows Pinot-Noir-like vivacity with flavors of raspberry and boysenberry that are sharpened by juicy acidity. To add to the wine’s allure, fine-grained tannins fill the long floral finish. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a price tag of $90.

“Since you love Pinot Noir,” Ivelisse paused lightly. “I knew you would especially enjoy the Saint Cosme.”

“I definitely enjoyed this wine,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “The bouquet was exotic, displaying peaty qualities that I found enticing. Indeed a wine that will drink well over the years.”

“As for pairing Gigondas, it is an excellent wine to serve with cheeses such as St. Marcellin, Roquefort, and Espoisses,” Ivelisse was quick to add.de saint

“With what dishes would you serve these wines?” I queried.

“Beef Stroganoff, spare ribs, and most game.”

“Agreed,” I flashed her an even smile.

“We need a hearty lunch because our next stop, Chateauneuf du Papa is better than 10 miles away,” she said flatly.

“Surely you are not planning for us to hike that distance,” I playfully toyed. “But that my friends, is another story …”

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: acidity, alcohol, blend, body, California, cellar, Chateauneuf du Pape, finish, floral, food pairing, France, fruit, Grenache, los angeles, Mourvedre, nose, palate, Pinot Noir, Rhone, Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez, sherry, sommelier, spice, Syrah, tannins, Zinfandel

Sardinia: Italy’s Resorgimento

August 8, 2013 by evebushman

Sardinia is home to the ancient mythological hero-god Sardus Pater, and some surprisingly good wines. So good that these local treasures are indicative of Sardinia’s resurgence as an important wine region that is capable of producing fine wines to meet international standards. Today I am joined by long-time friend, and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto. Knowing my interest in ancient history and willingness to explore unusual and interesting wine regions, it was only logical that when I suggested that we take some time off, Serena picked Sardinia.

The island’s history dates back to antiquity and has been colonized by everyone from the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Berbers, Spaniards, French, and Italians. No doubt the blending of such diverse cultures has led to a colorful viticultural history and unique portfolio of wine grapes.

What is most interesting with Sardinia’s wines, the varietals bear little resemblance to those on the Italian mainland. More often than not, the varieties are of French and Spanish origin. I was surprised to find an abundance of Garnacha, Bobal, Carignan, and Cabernet  Sauvignon.

tuvaoesuSo what do two sommeliers do on holiday besides enjoy the sandy beaches and pristine waters … drink wine, of course. We have chosen Poetto Beach, just on the outskirts of the city of Cagliari, for today’s wine tasting. This stretch of white sand is popular with both locals and tourists alike. Sun worshippers revel in everything from lazy days, to extreme sports such as kite surfing.

Serena selected some wonderful wines. We began with a Vermentino from Tuvaos. This wine is from the western region of Usini. On the eye our 2011 Giovanni Cherchi Tuvaos is a pale straw-yellow, with just a hint of green. It is not an effervescent wine, but there is just the slightest hint of bubbles. The bouquet is aromatic and filled with white flowers. There is also the suggestion of green meadows that adds to its allure. On the palate it is very fresh and enjoyable. It is smooth, richly floral, and elegant.  The finish is smooth, warm, and very long. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“I prefer Sardinian Vermentino over those from the mainland,” Serena said flatly.

“Agreed, too often Vermentino is much too sharp and dry,” I paused lightly. “With what dishes would you serve our Tuvaos?”

“Any type of seafood, especially fish,” she replied as she poured us another glass of wine. “I would also serve this wine at 52 degrees Fahrenheit to bring out its flavors.

screen-shot-2012-09-25-at-03-34-31Our next wine, Capichera Vigna’ngena Vermentino 2011, was definitely one of the first great white wines produced in Sardinia. It hails from the renown Gallura region. The allure of this wine is that it is aged in French oak barriques which gives it great intensity and complexity. On the eye, the wine’s color is a pale yellow straw. The nose shows notes of orange blossoms, rosemary, and thyme. On the palate, there is a perfect balance of acidity, sweetness, citrus fruits, and minerals. There was just the slightest hint of oak and the finish was medium and lost none of its flavor. Over all, this is a delicate and polished wine that is filled with subtle nuances.  The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $40.

“I knew this one would be your palate. It also pairs nicely with fish, shellfish, and seafood risotto,” she said as she gently fed me some clams.

“I know that Capichera wines are favored over all other Gallura wines and it is easy to understand why,” I paused to pour us both more wine.” I like the use of the French oak barriques. It definitely rounds out the character and flavor of the wine.”

Our next selection, Sella & Mosca Terre Bianche Torbato Alghero 2006 hails from Sardinia’s northwest. The Torbato grape, originally from Spain, is known for producing wines that are a delicate straw yellow, with golden hues. On the nose it is complex and persistent, with noticeable fruit aromas dominating. On the palate it is light and refreshing, crisp, and flavorful. The acidity of this fruit forward wine is naturally assertive, yet pleasing. There are also lovely suggestions of vanilla from oak aging. Sella & Mosca age the wine 4 months in 2 and 3 year old barrels. What emerges is a wine that is full-bodied, savory, structured, and complex. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $30.

209743“Sella & Mosca are among Sardina’s premier wine estates,” Serena’s tone was matter of fact. “The 1600 acre estate, with 1200 acres under cultivation, make Sella & Mosca one of the largest wine estates in all of Europe.”

“Definitely my preference on a summer day,” I nodded in approval.

“Torbato also pairs sensationally with shellfish and seafood dishes,” she said with calm finality.

Serena selected as our last wine, Vernaccia di Oristano Riserva 1988. Vernaccia, is from the Italian word vernaculo. It translates best as “common” or “indigenous.” Vernaccia Oristano is a sherry-like fortified wine from Sardina’s western regions. This style of wine is harvested and pressed in the standard way, aged in oak barrels for 3-4 years. The result is a wine that has a musty bouquet with an abundance of almond nuttiness on the nose. This golden yellow wine has a curious taste of bitter fruit on the palate. I did find it quite enjoyable. The finish is light and pleasant and loses none of its almond qualities. Over all, it is a delicate, yet complete wine. The alcohol content is 15.5% with a price tag of $45.

“I love this wine,” Serena gasped as she expressed her delight. “It is so gracious, so seductive.”

“What foods best match Vernaccia Oristano?” I queried.

“Prawns first and foremost,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “Cauliflower and black olive fusilli pasta, sweet potatoes, stuffed avocados, and eggplant are among my favorite pairings,” Serena chuckled under her breath.

“What is so funny?”

“I also like this wine with chocolate chip cookies,” she erupted euphorically.vernaccioristano

“Well then,” I paused on the moment to share in Serena’s merriment. “Shall we talk a walk down to Poetto Beach? If we spot a bakery on the way, I promise to buy you a dozen chocolate cookies.”

“Make it a baker’s dozen and I’m out the door,” she playfully toyed. But that my friends, is a different story …”

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: alcohol, aroma, Barrel, color, finish, floral, food pairing, grapes, Italy, Oak, palate, sommelier, wine education, Wine tasting

Gregory Alonzo: Verdicchio: Italy’s Little Green One

July 25, 2013 by evebushman

Traveling throughout Italy is a journey that brings the past to life. This ancient land is rich with palaces, castles, monuments, and ruins that date back to antiquity. I guess that is one of the reasons I love this country so much, and dedicated most of my wine studies to the challenge of learning, and experiencing, the over 350 officially recognized varietals.

When most people think about the earliest days of Italian wine, their first thought is that of the ancient Romans. In actuality, it was the Etruscans, who as early as the 2nd century BCE, first began to cultivate grapes. As Greek settlers later made their way onto the Italian peninsula, they had a hand in the proliferation of wine making. However, it was the Romans who were the true innovators. Typical to their nature, Romans brought organization, and the pioneering of large-scale production to Italian winemaking. It was also the Romans who promoted storage techniques like barrel-making and bottling.

Today I am in the lovely central Italian city of Ancona. Situated between the slopes of Monte Conero, Monte Astagno, and Monte Guasco, we have an alluring view of the Adriatic Sea. As usual, I am accompanied by long-time friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto. We have been traveling throughout the Marche region and enjoying my favorite Italian white wine, Verdicchio. Affectionately known as the “little green one,” the popularity of this wine dates back to antiquity. Legend has it that when Alarich, king of the Visigoths invaded Rome, he supplied his troops with ample amounts of Verdicchio to maintain their strength in battle.

Verdicchio is synonymous with dry wines in Italy. In the Marche region, two styles prevail in popularity, Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matellica. However, both Serena and I feel that Verdicchio thrives best in Castelli di Jesi. When blended, Malvasia and Trebbiano are used as the traditional partners.

Verdicchio is a particularly aromatic variety. At its best, there are elegant aromas of citrus and nuts. The variety lends itself well to producing spumante. Sparkling wines are the local specialty on the Adriatc coast.

“Verdicchio is a pleasure to pair with most cuisines,” Serena paused lightly to ensure she had my full attention. “European, American, Asian, and Australian, are all enhanced by Verdicchio.”

“What dishes in particular?” I queried

Sartarelli_-_Verdicchio_Castelli_di_Jesi_D.O.C._Verdicchio_Classico_2010__29176“Roasted flounder, turbot fillets, prawns, marinated eel,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “Smokey roasted peppers, eggplant, onions, bean salad, peanut dressing, and lemon butter, to name a few.”

Our first selection, Sartarelli Verdicchio Classico 2009 is pleasing on the eye. Striated with golden hues, one feels that something special is about to happen. On the nose, our Sartarelli continues to please. The bouquet is filled with dried, flowers, peaches, and herbs. This is a medium-bodied wine that is well-balanced and polished. It fills the palate with an array of citrus flavors, nuts, and just a hint of honey to make it memorable. The finish is silky and soft. The alcohol content is 11.5% with a price tag of $15.

“This is an excellent daily drinker,” Serena was quick to add. “It pairs nicely with both fish and white meat.”

“Lunch or dinner, this is definitely the go to wine,” I flashed Serena a quick smile and a nod of approval.

Our next selection, Frazi Battaglia Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi San Sisto Classico 2007 immediately grabs one’s attention with its remarkable golden color. At first glance, I mistook it for a dessert wine. However, it is wonderfully refreshing and dry on the palate. The bouquet is most enjoyable with subtle hints of lemon, lime, and apples that lead to a full-body. The finish is long, flavorful, and creamy. This is definitely a wine to be enjoyed with seafood dishes, and since we are in Italy, that means calamari. The alcohol content is 12% with a price tag of $25.fazi-battaglia-san-sisto-verdicchio-dei-castelli-di-jesi-classico-riserva-docg-marches-italy-10278366

“I really like this style of Verdicchio. It is so refreshing,” Serena was smiling as she spoke. “I would chill this at 54 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“What strikes me is the wine’s persistent fragrance,” I paused as I smacked my lips. “I also pick up just a hint of almond”

“I knew that this would definitely be your palate,” Serena smiled as she poured our next wine.

Our last selection, Aziende Agricola Bucci Verdicchio Riserva 2006 is deep gold in color. The wine has spent 6 months in oak and another 6 months in the bottle. The result is a wine that is much more concentrated. The bouquet is filled with floral and fruit accents that never diminish. It is medium-bodied and nicely balanced with flavors of spice and wood. Our Riserva it soft on the palate with an elegant and long finish. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $55.

“This is a splendid Verdicchio that is meant to be shared with that special someone,” Serena smiled with subtle coquetry.

“I’m thinking this wine would be perfect to serve with oysters or lobster.”

VillaBucciRiserva(1)“I would also be comfortable serving this special cuvee from Bucci with white meat and cheese,” Serena paused to collect her thoughts. “And chill it to 65 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“You know how much I enjoy Verdicchio,” I gave Serena a wide beaming smile. “You out did yourself with this tasting. What’s next?”

“I’d love a stroll through the garden.”

“But that my friends is another story …”

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: alcohol, aroma, Barrel, bottling, bouquet, color, flavor, floral, food pairing, fruit, grapes, Italy, Oak, palate, sommelier, Sparkling wine, Verdicchio, wine education, winemaking

Gregory Alonzo reports on the Basque Wines of Spain and France

June 20, 2013 by evebushman

I love the north of Spain and have been visiting the city of Bilbao and the surrounding beaches of San Sebastian for some twenty years. My frequent haunts include Concha Bay, and the golden sands beaches of Zarautz and Fuenterrabia.

Today I am joined by long-time friend and fellow sommelier, Naiara Dolagaray. We are enjoying the view of Hendaia. This is a wide and sandy beach located just inside France. Over the years it has become popular with surfers.

I was first recommended to Hendaia Beach by my nephew, Austin Roberts. A couple of years ago, while as an undergraduate at UCLA; Austin spent a year in Madrid mastering the language and the Castillian accent. Since he is an avid surfer, it was inevitable that he would venture this far north.

Spain’s autonomous region, the Basque Country, is rugged with high mountains descending into lush valleys. The Alava Plains and the Ebro Valley have long been renown for their wines and spirits.

“I think you will enjoy the dishes served at the Hegoa Café.” Naiara called for my attention. “This is where I usually come to meet with my friends and enjoy a glass of wine.”

449px-Txakolin_botila“A feast for my eyes,” I flashed her a beaming smile.

“Then let’s begin,” Naiara chuckled jovially.

Naiara had seen to it that our table had been set with only the most delectable Basque Tapas. Idiazabal sheep cheese, lamb stew, Tolosa bean dishes, and a wide assortment of meats and fish that had been grilled over hot coals.

Our first selection was a lovely sparkling wine, Getaria Txakoli, pronounced, CHAC-oh-lee, is unique to the region along the Basque coast, and often produced by small growers. Typically this style of wine is made from Hondarribi Zuria grapes which produce a beverage that is a light, fruity, and slightly sparkling. The wine has a slight green tint, floral bouquet with hints of apple and pineapple. It is high in acidity with a low alcohol content, usually between  9.5-11.5% alcohol. Txakoli is served in tall glasses and poured from a height. Overall our Getaria Txakoli 2011 was an enjoyable and easy wine to drink. The alcohol content is 10.5 % and a price tag of $35.

“Since it is a light white wine, Txakoli is often paired with fish and seafood,” Naiara added. “It is perfect for the catch along the Basque coast.”

“A most pleasant wine,” I paused lightly. “I should think it would also pair nicely with calamari.”

“I would also add that this is a wine that is meant to be drunk young, most definitely within a year.” Naira spoke with calm finality.

Our next wine, Rioja Alavesa hails from the southern tip of Basque Country. Grape varietals that are most prevalent in the area are Graciano, Garnacha, Mazuelo, Viura, and Tempranillo. What is most interesting about wine making in this region is that the grapes are neither de-stemmed nor crushed before fermenting. The grapes are simply placed into large open vats. This technique is known as carbonic maceration. The vintners of Alavesa believe this technique is what makes their wines soft and fruity. Naiara selected a Marques de Riscal Rose 2012. This is a very pleasant and drinkable rose. It is a, bright, lively raspberry in color. The nose reveals an intensity and concentration of both raspberries and strawberries, with just a subtle floral hint. The palate is fresh and nicely balanced with a full crisp finish. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $15.Rosado(2)

“I would serve this wine chilled and pair it with fish, shellfish, pasta, and rice dishes,” Naiara’s eyes sparkled as she flashed me a smile.

“What temperature would your serve our rose?” I queried.

“46-50 degrees Fahrenheit,” she replied with a quick nod.

Our last wine hails from the Irouleguy apellation in the foothills of the Pyranees Mountains. This is in the Northern Basque Country which is actually in Navarre, France. Back in the 3rd Century, it was the Romans who first began to cultivate the lower Navarre terraces for wine production. Today, this area of France is synonymous with such red grape varietals as Tannat, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Courbu, Petit Manseng, and Gros Manseng are the popular white grape varietals of the region. Naiara selected a Domaine Illaria Rougue 2009 as our final wine. Visually, the Illaria Rougue is a deep red. The bouquet is a healthy dose of black cherries interwoven with assorted spices. This is a vigorous wine with youthful tannins underlined by dark fruit flavors. This big red is a blend of 55% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Tannat giving it a firm structure. This certified organic wine has an alcohol content of 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

Rouge 2009 front“I’d say this is a great wine for simple rustic cuisine.”

“Most definitely,” Naiara was quick to reply. “Braised pheasant or wild boar sausages would be ideal.”

“What’s next?” I queried.

“Izzara,” she was quick to reply.

“Ah, the fabled Basque liqueur … But that my friends is another story …”

 

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: acidity, alcohol, balance, blend, bouquet, Cabernet Franc, cabernet sauvignon, color, crush, fermentation, finish, floral, food pairing, France, fruity, grapes, nose, palate, Rioja, Rose, sommelier, spain, Sparkling wine, spirits, Tannat, Tempranillo, Wine tasting

Gregory Alonzo: Piedmont’s Hidden Treasures

August 30, 2012 by evebushman

The region of Monferrato, Italy is a spectacular expanse of rolling hills and vast vineyards. This is the fabled area of Piedmont. A wine region that has been extensively celebrated in the arts and literature.

On hot days in Monferrato, what white wines do the locals drink? The answer is quite simple, they seldom, if ever, drink white wine. Piedmontese prefer red wines such as  Grignolino, Ruche, Verduno Pelaverga, and Freisa. Drinking a white wine is just unseemly.

Today, my friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto and I will be exploring the wonderful, but little known wines of this region. Rest assured that these wines can be found in the States, however, it may take some searching. Rather than dwell on particular wineries or vintages, we have decided to cover the general characteristics of these wines and make some recommendations. We welcome you to share your insights as you discover the hidden treasures of Piedmont.

Grignolino (green-yo-lino) in the local dialect means “many pips.” The grape varietal is popular when making light colored wines and roses. The alcohol content is typically low at 11-12%. Rest assured that these wines have strong acidity and tannins.

“I also like the floral notes, fruity aromas of citrus, and just a hint of spice.” Serena was quick to add. “The wine is very dry and tastes of red raspberries.”

“It is also interesting that for a such a light wine, Grignolino has plenty of structure and a long finish,“ I added with a nod of approval.

In the days when Piedmont was still a kingdom, Grignolino was a favorite of royalty. The King of Savoia was quite fond of drinking Grignolino and preferred it to all other wines served at his table. By the end of the 19th century this wine was considered one of Piedmont’s best. Today Grignolino has improved in quality and is steadily gaining in popularity. It is often considered Piedmont’s most delicate wine.

Both Serena and I recommend a 2009 Castillo di Nelve. Priced at $15, it is classic in style and  from 25 year old vines. This wine pairs quite nicely with pasta and all basic Italian dishes.

Our next wine is Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato and it is grown exclusively in the hills of Monferrato. In order to be labeled Ruche, the wine must be comprised of 90% Ruche grapes. The other 10% is open to any combination of Barbera or Brachetto. This produces a fragrant and slightly floral wine. Ruche is pale-red in color with a tannic profile and depth of flavor. It has  medium body with a delicate, velvety taste.

“I would also add that there are notes of tart berries, black plums, and sweet spices that distinguish Ruche,” Serena gave a nod of approval.

The Ruche grape is something of an enigma even in Piedmont. There are conflicting tales of this grape varietal. One such story is that Ruche is originally from France and was brought to Piedmont several hundred of years ago. Serena, like all good Piedmontese, is insistent that Ruche is an indigenous vine. Whatever the truth, Ruche has begun making its way out of Monferrato. Over the past decade Ruche has been well received by all who have enjoyed this limited production wine.

Ruche compliments salami, roasted veal, and aged cheeses. Serena also recommends serving Ruche with the classic Piedmont dish, tagliolni with white truffles.

Priced at about $25, both Serena and I recommend a 2006 La Mondianese Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato.

Verduno Pelaverga or simply Verduno is a red wine native to Piedmont. Pelaverga is a rare, dark-skinned grape varietal that produces pale strawberry-scented wines. So why haven’t you heard of this obscure grape? Verduno is in the Barolo region and just a few hills over from the famed Barolo site of La Morra.
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Unfortunately this splendid grape gets over-shadowed by Piedmont’s renown Barolo, the “King of wine and wine of kings.”

Pelaverga has a long history in Piedmont. The grapes date back to the 15th century. However, in those days Pelaverga was used primarily as a blending grape. The name also brings up some interesting questions. Literally translated, it means “branch peeler.” Serena presumes the name has something to do with a viticultural practice of how to train the vine.

Here’s an interesting thought.  “Verga” is the Spanish word for the male genitalia. Considering that the local people of Verduno claim that the grape is an aphrodisiac, I postulate …”

“Oh Gregorio,” Serena broke in with a more than amused laughter. “More like wishful thinking.”

“Unfortunately, you are probably correct. Two glasses later, and nothing.”

“Cin cin,” Serena heartily toasted me.

Overall, Verduno Pelaverga’s profile is a savory floral wine. It is lithe in acidity and weight, yet poignant in depth. There is just enough tannin to pair perfectly with smoked meats and slightly aged cheeses.

“Or a truffle risotto,” Serena added. “I would also serve Verduno with just the slightest chill.”

Both Serena and prefer the 2006 Pelaverga Basadone. This is a most enjoyable wine at about $20. Incidentally, “Baciadonne” in Italian translates as “the lady killer.”

Our final selection is Freisa (Fray-zah). It is a blue-black grape indigenous to Piedmont. These vigorous grapes are harvested in early October and the red wines produced are somewhat sweet and lightly sparkling.

Dating back to the 18th century, most Piedmontese agree that the varietal originated in the hills between Asti and Turin. By the 1880’s, Freisa had become one of the major  grapes of the region. Today, Freisa is grown widely around the Monferrato area.

Freisa is an interesting variety which typically shows a wild-raspberry scent, some  ripe strawberries with distinct earthy notes which add interest. There is a slight astringent, tart flavor to the wine’s profile that is slightly reminiscent of Dolcetto. Wines made for export tend to be on the lighter side, softly sweet, and slightly fizzy. Freisa is a very refreshing wine that is popular for sipping on those long summer days.

Serena and I recommend a 2004 Casaccia Vigna Monfiorenza. It can be served slightly chilled and pairs nicely with a variety of cheeses.

The wines we shared today are some of gems Piedmont. Rest assured that there are many more hidden treasures to be discovered. This is an ancient land with a colorful history that dates back before the Romans. A land that will never cease to amaze even the most discerning palates.

“Serena, earlier you mentioned Piedmont’s renown dish, tagliolni with white truffles.”

“If you are hungry,” she flashed me a beaming smile. “I know just the place.”

But that my friends is another story …

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: acidity, alcohol, barbera, finish, floral, food pairing, grapes, Italy, Piedmont, sommelier, structure, tannins, varietal, white wine, wine education, Wine tasting

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Eve Bushman

Eve Bushman, owner Eve’s Wine 101 and Eve Bushman Consulting.

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