Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick – I. Brand and Family

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The San Francisco Chronicle named Morgan Twain-Peterson and Tegan Passalacqua their co-winemakers of the year for 2015. Why does this matter, you may ask? Typically, we don’t pay too much attention to these kind of awards. But since Morgan and Tegan are two of our very favorite winemakers (Morgan for Bedrock Wine Company and Tegan for Turley Wine Cellars as well as Sandlands), this award made us sit up and take notice of who the Chronicle named going forward.

Fast forward to 2018. The Chronicle named their winemaker of the year to be – Ian Brand. “Who?”, you may ask (we did). But further research resulted in us resolving to visit Ian’s winery tasting room in the Carmel Valley as soon as practical. It took us a while, but we finally made it.

Ian sources grapes from all over Monterey and San Benito Counties. You may not be familiar with many of the grapes and the vineyard sites are often historic and underrepresented in a land where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are king and queen.

Ian actually produces wine under three labels: Le P’tit Paysan (The Little Peasant) would be considered entry level, inspired by French Village wines; La Marea (The Tide) focuses on Spanish varietals; and I. Brand, which are single vineyard, old vine bottlings. Total annual production is about 15,000 cases, with the premium I Brand label representing the lowest production.

We tasted some of the wines from the I. Brand label when we visited the tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. Note that most of these vineyards are registered with the Historic Vineyard Society (HVS), an organization near and dear to our hearts.

2021 Arneis –from the Vista Verde Vineyard in the Paicines AVA of San Benito County

Bright, Asian pear, lemon notes. Medium to full mouth feel, long fish.  Impression of very slight sweetness, distinct and structured.

2021 Pinot Gris – from the Eden Rift Vineyard in the Cienega Valley AVA of San Benito County.

Eden Rift was planted in the early 1850s by Theophile Vaché, a pioneer of the California wine industry. Light blush color, since it spent five days on its skins. Complex tannins, strawberry raspberry notes in the mouth and on the nose. Long finish.

2021 Pinot Noir – from the Enz Vineyard in the Lime Kiln Valley AVA of San Benito County. This vineyard is registered with the Historic Vineyard Society. Temperatures are warmer in this area compared to Monterey County so harvest is earlier. The soil is limestone versus the granite of Monterey County. Great fruit nose.  Stone fruit complexity, medium mouth feel, medium to long finish.

2019 Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache – from the Chalone Vineyard in the Chalone AVA of Monterey County. This is another vineyard registered with the HVS. A perfect blend of these three grapes (56%, 32% and 12% respectively), this elegant wine had a cherry nose, red, ripe fruit and rosemary notes.  A nice long finish.

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon – from the Massa Vineyard in the Carmel Valley AVA of Monterey County

This is oldest vineyard in Carmel Valley. It was previously owned by the Durneys and is now owned by the Massas and is HVS registered. The wine was obviously still very young but was very structured and layered, with pomegranate and white pepper notes.

Ian is making outstanding wines from these great old vineyards. You should definitely take the drive to the end of Carmel Valley Village to see and taste for yourself.  It makes for a very leisurely ride.    

With the three labels, there is a variety to choose from.   The tasting room is comfy and cozy.  We enjoyed sitting outside looking at the scenery, the beautiful mountains and the surrounding areas. It only added to the overall experience.

I. Brand & Family

www.ibrandwinery.com

19 East Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley Village, CA 93924Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Behind the Wine: Story of Soil By Dawn Abasta

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Jessica Gasca’s journey to winemaker started out in unfamiliar territory. She is a native Californian but had ventured out to New York to explore her options. She worked in a French restaurant there and learned from their onsite sommelier who offered regular classes on wine. Jessica fell in love with everything about wine but she did not love the New York weather so she came back to California and continued her education. She read everything she could get her hands on, did tons of research and when she felt she was ready she reached out to her uncle Gary Burk who founded Costa De Oro Winery. She interned for him at the winery during harvest. Jessica loved the magic around harvest. She continued to learn everything she could, hands on and in the dirt.

She began saving all her pennies to buy one ton of Pinot and two tons of Syrah and in 2012 she made her first wines: a Gold Coast Vineyard Pinot and Larner Vineyard Syrah. These were released in 2015 making her one of the only female Latina winemakers in Santa Barbara. She now sources most of her wines from all over Santa Barbara County including Ballard, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Maria and Happy Canyon. She believes that wine is about the place it’s grown and the land it’s grown on. Thus, her winery name Story of Soil.

When asked what skills a winemaker should cultivate, Jessica said flexibility and patience. She endeavors to keep her wine in its truest form possible without additives. The result is a beautiful and delicious wine.

I asked her who influenced her along her journey and she said her Uncle was her mentor. She was also inspired and influenced by Jim Clendenen who helped her with her initial process and Amy Christine who is a Master of Wine and a wealth of knowledge. She advises that if you would like to get into the wine business, that you should reach out to your known sources and ask questions, get involved, taste more and most importantly don’t be afraid to take the leap of faith and follow your gut. When asked what the most rewarding thing about being a winemaker was she said it was being outside in nature every day. “The vineyard is my church”!

Prior to our interview I had been reviewing the Story of Soil Facebook page and noted that the team at Story of Soil starts every day with a motivational quote. I asked her which one meant the most to her. She answered, “Having a kind smile can go a long way.” She honestly believes that to be graceful in all things is important. You do not know what someone else is going through so smile, you might just turn their day around.

Jessica’s second passion is the Santa Barbara Vintners Foundation. As current President she is trying to help get a healthcare program together for vineyard workers. In 2021 she and the foundation helped get 1,000 vineyard workers vaccinated. They have also helped open Los Alamos Health Centers. To find out more about the foundation go to: http://www.sbvf.org/home.html

I have been to Story of Soil numerous times and I make sure to keep their pinot in my wine fridge. If you haven’t gone out to the Los Olivos area, be sure to add it to your next wine tasting trip. Story of Soil is located at 2928 San Marcos Ave, Los Olivos, CA 93441.

Paso Robles CAB Collective awarded grant for sustainability project

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Paso Robles, Calif.) – After submitting a Sustainable Agriculture Action Plan and application, the Paso Robles CAB Collective (PRCC) has been awarded a grant in the amount of $14,988 from Western Sustainable Agriculture Research & Education (SARE) and its host institution, Montana State University. The announcement of the award on October 5, 2022 included a declaration of confidence in the PRCC based on experience, past efforts, and creativity of its proposal to SARE’s expert panel.


Grant funds will allow the PRCC the opportunity to identify specific and urgent needs for research and education through the Sustainable Agriculture Action Plan to maintain their unique wine industry and the community at large, according to PRCC Executive Director Linda Sanpei.


“This project seeks to identify research and education needs specific to the Paso Robles cabernet sauvignon and red Bordeaux wine grape growing industry,” Sanpei said. “We want to ensure those in our industry can adapt to the challenges of climate change, sustain the industry’s economic benefit to the local community, and continue to produce world-class quality wines.”


The Paso Robles CAB Collective (PRCC) is a 501(c)6 nonprofit agricultural producer group with 24 independent producer-members and over 50 wine industry sponsors. For the past decade, the PRCC has dedicated its work to promoting and marketing wines made from the cabernet sauvignon and red Bordeaux (CAB) wine grapes grown by its members and ancillary wine grape growers in the region. With the effects of climate change threatening the growing conditions of these grapes, the PRCC has been looking at ways to help support the sustainability of its wine-producing members.

“Wine is among the most sensitive and nuanced agricultural products and is highly sensitive to climate change,” Sanpei explained. “Variations in temperature, water for irrigation, frost, pests, and other climate implications pose a significant threat to the grapes and wine industry of Paso Robles.”
Letters of support and encouragement for undertaking this project have been received from PRCC members, the local community, and regional and state bodies. With its proven track record of experience, knowledge, and expertise, PRCC has the organizational capacity to develop a plan which identifies the urgent needs of sustaining both an industry and a region by making necessary adaptations to changing climatic conditions. 


During the project timeframe, from late 2022 through the first quarter of 2023, PRCC will explore these needs and use this valuable report to look for further grant opportunities and partnerships to conduct research, regulatory changes, infrastructure, education, and training. PRCC members and stakeholders will be asked to participate in an online survey to identify high-priority needs for the Paso Robles area as well as sustainability issues related to growing cabernet and red Bordeaux grapes, with a focus on climate change challenges. 


“From the information gained through this survey, a workshop agenda will be formed, with members and stakeholders invited to attend this workshop in early February,” Sanpei said.


The workshop will be facilitated by Sanpei, Francine Errico, and PRCC Board member and Robert Hall Winery Managing Director Caine Thompson. Further exploration into how research, regulatory changes, area infrastructure, education, and training are required to increase the adoption of sustainable agricultural practices will also be presented.


Follow-up consultation and input will be obtained from experts at the Cal Poly department of Wine and Viticulture, The Wine Institute, California Wine Grape Growers Association, and Paso Robles City Council. In addition, PRCC will conduct a review of the State of the Wine Industry Report produced by Silicon Valley Bank for industry-wide and specific area statistics and market information.


“The PRCC will use the findings of this report to apply for future climate change related grants through the USDA and CDFA, and build research partnerships,” Sanpei said. The PRCC is a grassroots non-profit organization dedicated to promoting the full potential of the Paso Robles AVA in producing superior-quality Cabernet Sauvignon and red Bordeaux varietal wines. The distinguished members of the Paso Robles CAB Collective are: Allegretto Vineyards & Wines, Ancient Peaks Winery, Brecon Estate, Calcareous Vineyard, Cass Vineyard & Winery, Castoro Cellars, Chateau Margene, DAOU Vineyards & Winery, Eberle Winery, Glunz Family Winery & Cellars, Hearst Ranch Winery,High Camp Wines,Hope Family Wines, J. Lohr Vineyard & Wines,JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery, LXV Wine, Niner Wine Estates, Opolo Vineyards, Pomar Junction Vineyard & Winery, Riboli Family Wines, Robert Hall Winery, SixMileBridge, The Farm Winery, and Vina Robles Vineyards & Winery. 

The sponsors of the Paso Robles CAB Collective are: Title Sponsor Hood Container, Grapevine Capital, Filipponi & Thompson Drilling, Somm Foundation, and The Somm Journal and The Tasting Panel Magazine; Agrovin, Allegretto Vineyard Resort, Bank of Sierra, Boneso Brothers Construction, Borjon Auto Center, The Bottle Meister, Cork Supply, Enartis, Farm Credit West, Fiji Water, Glenn Burdette, Paso Robles CA, Saver Glass, Saxco International, TriCorBraun, World Cooperage; Demptos Napa Cooperage, ETS Laboratories, Encore Glass, H&A Barrel Management, Martinez Farming, Patricia Diane Vineyards, Sanitary Stainless Welding, Seguin Moreau, Tonnellerie Sylvain, Tastry, Tonnellerie Ô, Umpqua Bank, Vintrace, Vinventions, Wine Direct, Wine Shipping; Amcor, AMORIM Cork, Cal Coast Irrigation, G3, IGGPRA, JB Dewar, Lafitte Cork & Capsule, Longcrier & Associates, MASilvaUSA, Miller Family, Moss Adams, PRT, Peltier Glassworks, Vineyard Professional Services, and Wonderful Nurseries.

ABOUT THE PASO ROBLES CAB COLLECTIVE: Formed in 2012, the Paso Robles CAB (Cabernet and Bordeaux) Collective (PRCC) is an independent collaborative effort of leading Paso Robles growers and producers of Cabernet and red Bordeaux varietals specific to the Paso Robles AVA in California. The PRCC strives to promote to trade, media and consumers the full potential of the Paso Robles region in producing superior quality, classic and age-worthy Cabernet and red Bordeaux varietals that compete on a global stage. For more information, please visit pasoroblescab.com.

Domaine la Barroche and Château Mont Redon PLUS The Terroir and Castles

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We began the day at Domaine la Barroche where the sandy soil with quartz stones took over the vineyards. The same 12 people do the harvest every year; and the group also sorts the grapes in buckets by hand for the 2,000 cases of wine they produce a year. During the de-stemming process they discard any too-dry berries. Then, later, the winemaking process is “like slow cooking at low temperatures” according to our host.

We tasted wines from their Liberty (stones), Julien Barrot (signature) and Fiancée labels. Every wine I tasted I noted as distinguished: the 2020, 2019 and 2016 Julien Barrot Chateauneuf du Pape, 2020 Liberty blend and the 2020 Fiancée Chateauneuf du Pape.

Chateau Mont- Redon

Before our tasting at Mont-Redon I took a few moments to look over their colorful brochure and large maps. I read, “The secret of our skill is hidden in the poor soils in which the vines grow. Originally the Alps, Chateauneuf du Pape, round puddings stones are what make our wines special. Our Lirac and Cotes du Rhone are at their best on the plains, also stony, neighboring those of Chateauneuf du Pape.” Château Mont Redon will be celebrating their 100-year anniversary next year, with the same family at the helm since 1923!

We tasted a 2021 Roussanne Viognier Reserve Cotes du Rhone, 2020 Oratoire St. Domaine Martin Rhone Valley, 2020 Lirac GSM, 2018 Reserve Gigondas and a 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape. Learned that they don’t export their wines until they are at least five years old – as the U.S. consumer is not known for aging their wines – and we should be buying the 2019s now.

Terroir tour Day Courtesy A 2 Pas des Vignes Hebergements and Spa

Next up was a fabulous tour of the different rocks – including beautiful quartz – and different soils all throughout the Cote Du Rhone and Chateauneuf du Pape with Nicolas of “A 2 Pas des Vignes Hebergements and Spa”! (He and his wife Emilie own four homes to rent, and a spa on the premises.) Castles – all minutes away – include the Pope’s Palace, Chateau de Vaudieu, Chateau La Nerthe and Hostellerie du Château that also has a lovely restaurant. I highly recommend a stay at 2 Pas as the pricing is more than reasonable as well as being in the center of Chateauneuf du Pape. Nicolas offered us the tour, though he is not a tour guide, but I also suggest a tour so that you can get more of a sense of the terroir and history.

Instagram: @DomaineLaBarroche @ChateauMontRedon

Websites: https://www.domainelabarroche.com/

https://www.chateaumontredon.com/

Instagram: @a2pasdesvignes

Website: https://sites.google.com/view/a2pasdesvignes

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Proof Awards, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Abadía Retuerta, ranked number 29 in the Top 50 destinations for wine tourism

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Sardón de Duero – Abadía Retuerta is a 5-star hotel and winery, and a leading destination of experiences at the heart of the Duero Valley, near Sardón de Duero (Valladolid). The resort has recently been ranked within the top thirty destinations for wine tourism, according to the World’s Best Vineyards 2022. In this new edition, Abadía Retuerta now features at number 29, three places higher than last year, on this prestigious list: it is ranked the third-highest winery in Spain, from a total of five Spanish destinations to feature in the Top 50.

The World’s Best Vineyards is an organisation comprising over 600 wine and travel experts from all over the world, who seek to identify the very best wine tourism experiences on leading vineyards. Each year they reveal their Top 50 viticultural experiences, i.e. the best destinations for enjoying wine, learning how vines are grown and seeing how the wine is produced. They also take into account various complementary factors, such as the guided tours of the estate, the quality of the available accommodation and the excellence of the gastronomy. This year, once again, they have voted Abadía Retuerta onto their list: it is now classed within the top 30 wine tourism destinations in the whole world.

For Enrique Valero, CEO of Abadía Retuerta: “Our mission is to spark moments of joy in our guests and visitors, by showcasing the natural and historic heritage that has been passed down to us. That’s why we are truly honoured to be ranked within the Top 50 vineyards in the world: it spurs us on to improve even further, and keep flying the flag for Spanish excellence on the international stage.”

2022 has been a particularly special year for Abadía Retuerta, because this May the estate received its own Protected Designation of Origin for its wines. This seal of quality, granted by the European Union, endorses their wine as a product of guaranteed origin, quality and tradition. Furthermore, it certifies the estate’s outstanding soils: Abadía Retuerta’s wine is an authentic expression of the terroir, i.e. the area’s specific climatic and geographical traits that give rise to vines and grapes with truly unique qualities, and wine full of local personality. “Yet again, our tenacity, determination and strength has been rewarded: we have successfully revived a historic winery, following a work philosophy based on ecological viticulture and a careful study of the climate”, adds Valero.

A unique haven of experiences

Abadía Retuerta is a leading 5-star hotel and winery in the Duero Valley, less than two hours from Madrid. It is located within the stunning estate of a 12th-century monastery, originally founded by the Premonstratensian Orden in Spain.

The project’s origins are in wine, but it has now become so much more, driven by an ongoing passion to create unique and memorable experiences. The estate spans 700 hectares of land (185 of which are vineyards), with over 8,000 m2 that include spaces full of history and thirty luxurious hotel rooms (27 double rooms and three suites), with full butler service available. It offers a wide range of experiences linked to wine, gastronomy — its flagship restaurant, Refectorio, holds a Michelin Star, a Michelin Green Star and two Repsol Suns — nature, art and wellbeing, the latter of which is focused around Santuario Wellness & Spa. All of this, and much more, is why Abadía Retuerta is now considered a leading resort for luxury experiences, and one of the most sustainable hotel destinations in the world, as proven by its Green Globe certification. Furthermore, the estate’s winery, one of the most innovative in Europe, has won various prestigious international accolades; for example Wine Spectator magazine has included Abadía Retuerta within its Top 100 Wines. Also, the estate has recently been granted its own Protected Designation of Origin status.

At Abadía Retuerta, time stands still and feelings run high. The estate brings together history, gastronomy, wine, wellbeing, art and sustainability, amid truly breathtaking surroundings.

Cava Completes 2022 Harvest, the Inaugural Vintage Differentiating Cavas de Guarda Superior

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2022 harvest is a milestone for the D.O., the first that producers identify and separate grapes from selected plots destined for Cavas de Guarda Superior

VILAFRANCA DEL PENEDÈS —The 2022 harvest for Cava producers marks the first for the D.O. that grapes from plots dedicated exclusively to Cavas de Guarda Superior were separated at reception at the winery and during vinification. Sorting took place via a digital platform with approximately 100 monitors communicating data in real-time.

As of 2020, quality regulations have introduced the new Cava de Guarda Superior category as Cavas with minimum 18 months lees aging. Additionally, the grapes destined for these Cavas must come from specific vineyards, and, by 2025, must be sourced from 1005 organically farmed vineyards. Organic Cava production has increased by more than 245% in the last five years, from four million bottles in 2016 to 13.8 million in 2020. The president of the Regulatory Council, Javier Pagés, announced: “The organic vineyard surface area continues to grow due to the rising demand for Guarda Superior grapes.”

Although high temperatures and lack of rainfall during the growing season reduced overall volume for the 2022 vintage, the resulting grape quality was exceptionally high. Harvest kicked off earlier than usual at the beginning of August due to constant above-average temperatures and the successive heat waves in late spring and early. Even later-ripening varieties were harvested earlier than usual, making for a shorter, more condensed harvest season.

The harvesting of Cava grape varieties began in early August with the Macabeo variety in the Viñedos de Almendralejo, and in Comtats de Barcelona (more specifically, the Pla de Ponent sub-zone) with Chardonnay. Next, harvesting began in the Serra de Mar, Valls d’Anoia-Foix, and Conca del Gaià sub-zones. The last areas to harvest were the Valle del Ebro, the Levante zone, and the Serra de Prades sub-zone (located in the Comtats de Barcelona).

Lower yields within the D.O. Cava were in line with a general decrease in grape yields across other wine-producing D.O.s. The fruit was exceptionally healthy throughout the entire growing season, and grapes were harvested at optimal sugar ripeness with sufficient phenolic ripeness and acidity.

The D.O. Cava maintained its control and traceability requirements for this harvest, using technology to verify the origin of the grapes of all of the D.O.’s winery members. According to Javier Pagés, this task “is essential and positions the Cava D.O. among the most demanding designations in the world.” The traceability is reflected in the new quality certified labels that launched in the beginning of 2022 and are expected to gradually reach their maximum market availability in 2023.

About D.O. Cava

With more than 70% of international sales, Cava is the Spanish D.O. which exports the most wine: its 349 associated wineries are present in over 100 countries. The D.O. encompasses more than 93,900 acres of vineyards and more than 6,200 winegrowers. Cava is a quality sparkling wine that pairs perfectly with every type of food, and is made using the traditional method, with a strict commitment to origin, land, and sustainability.

Web: Cava.wine 

Facebook: facebook.com/do.cava  

Instagram: instagram.com/Cava.do/ 

Twitter: twitter.com/DO_Cava

YouTube: youtube.com/c/doCava

Perlises Pick – J Dusi Winery’s Positive Signs for the Future

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We all know the future is uncertain. But as wine writers, our job is primarily to not focus on the world issues of the day but to write about wine, wineries, vineyards, etc. for the devoted readers of Eve’s Wine 101.

Sometimes, though, a bit of news comes across our desks that will impact the future, maybe only in a small way, that causes us to smile.

Any regular readers of the Perlises’ articles are sure to know that we are big fans of the wines of J Dusi Winery in Paso Robles, ever since we met Janell Dusi and tasted that first vintage from her family’s historic vineyard. So we were very pleased to receive an email that read, in part:

“Historically, certain practices for wine packaging were thought to be necessary, including the use of wax or capsules on the neck of a wine bottle.

In reality, capsules and wax enclosures are purely packaging.  Although we have used these in the past to create a polished and complete package, it serves no purpose beyond the way the bottle looks. 

As we take a step forward in sustainability, starting with the 2020 Vintages we have eliminated both wax and capsules. You’ll find the vintage printed on the end of each cork. Easy to locate the vintage you want, and no more foil to cut or messy wax to deal with!”

Janell clarified that the change applies to their Paper Street label for the 2020 vintage and will impact the J Dusi label starting with the 2021 vintage. She added that “this is our first step in creating a more sustainable package for our customers, but the same quality wine inside!”

This made us very happy. Wineries that are doing their part to reduce their carbon footprint and impact on the environment should be commended and rewarded with our purchases, especially quality wineries such as J Dusi.

The other news from J Dusi was included with their Fall 2022 Club shipment. In addition to the wine, there was a nice profile of Janell’s nephew, which Janell said we could share:

“In 2002, a boy was born, beginning the 5th generation of the Dusi Family. His parents named him Dante, in honor of his great grandfather Dante Sylvester Dusi.

Dante Michael Dusi grew up in the middle of our grape growing family, deeply rooted in the wine industry. He was surrounded by vineyards, big trucks, heavy equipment, and the family businesses.

From infancy, it was grapes and trucks that Dante loved. He spent many days riding in a car seat beside his dad, Michael, in a Peterbilt truck, transporting grapes up and down the state of California. As soon as Dante’s feet could touch the pedals, he was moving semi-trucks and driving tractors.

He understood the complex logistics of the truck yard: dispatching trucks, keeping them clean, and helping the drivers park their trucks perfectly, at the end of the work day.

Throughout Dante’s childhood, he had an eye on every aspect of vineyard work. At two years old, he was already participating in harvest, picking leaves out of the freshly picked grapes. When his Auntie Nell began making wine under her own label, J Dusi, Dante helped Janell pick those grapes.

Today, Dante is nineteen years old. He has acquired skills beyond his years by working beside his grandfather, Mike. He is learning about the soil, plants, rootstock, grape varietals, as well as the care of our vines. Dante is taking classes, studying innovative techniques, hoping to drive the family farming practice forward.

Dante is a hard working young man who is proud to carry on the legacy of the Dusi family. He proudly shares his great-grandfather’s name, Dante Dusi.”

It sounds like the future of the Dusi family vineyards is in great hands. We look forward to meeting Dante Michael Dusi one day.Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers

Bucket List: Chateauneuf du Pape, Part One Domaine Pegau

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What’s on your Bucket List? While a normal person wants to check off going to Mars, driving a racecar or meeting a president, wine writers have lists that almost always include visiting wineries in far off places. Having Shiraz in Australia, Tempranillo in Spain, Chianti Classico in Italy and Malbec in Argentina are on our lists, but top of the list for me has always been France. I had two days in Bordeaux years ago and a week in the Garda DOC in Italy that just wet my whistle for more, so when a small group of wine writers was being put together, to visit Chateauneuf du Pape for arguably the best Rhone wines in the world, I poised my pencil over my list and made a huge mark – YES, please, take me!

Quick travel tips: Bottles are priced much less at the source, even with shipping costs; we saved in buying a case to have sent home. If you can’t get winery appointments, or don’t have the time, we found several tasting rooms in town – as well as several places for meals. None of us in our party spoke fluent French, and though it would have helped, we were fine communicating in English. You can drive your own car, on the right side of the street, but there are many roundabouts, toll roads and narrow roadways.

Domaine Pegau

Our first day in France began with a sunrise at our friend’s Villa in Monoblet. From there we traveled 90 minutes for a tour and tasting at Chateau (wines from the Cote du Rhone area) and Domaine (Chateauneuf du Pape area in Rhone) from Pegau. We have a few Domaine Pegau wines in our cellar and really looked forward to visiting the real deal.

From our host we learned that there are five towns in Chateauneuf du Pape that produced 95% red and 5% white wine grapes. They use 13 grape varieties and any given bottle only has to use one grape. Pegau – properly pronounced as “Pay-Go” – uses all 13, including blending white with red grapes. For their Cote du Rhone property Pegau makes 44% red wine and one Rose wine.

We learned that they are an old school winery, as far as winemaking techniques. When finished wine is ordered only then is a bottling truck ordered and labels created. (There are different laws for different labeling around the world, so that is the reason they have to wait to print the labels.)

Only old oak is used for aging and some barrels are 90 years old. Stainless steel tanks are only used for their white wines; some high-end whites also spend time in wood barrels and concrete eggs. They do no de-stem any of the wines, which for me meant that the terroir would show earthiness and tannins.

Now, onto the tasting! We sampled two Chateau Pegau Vallee du Rhone and two Domaine Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape, a white and red in each category, aged between 2019 and 2021. My personal preference on these leaned more toward the Chateauneuf du Pape wines and of particular note was the 2019 Cuvee Reservee that used all 13 Rhone grapes and 80% of that was Grenache. These wines were priced between 10 and 45 euros – which is pretty close to the same in American dollars.

Instagram: @Domaine_Du_Pegau

Website: https://pegau.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Wine Tasting with Eve in Crete, Greece

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Our guide to two local wineries in Crete, Greece, was an enologist – wearing a WSET pin similar to my own – and also a linguist, who chose to spend his summer giving winery tours in Greece. Lucky us! Via a Food and Wine magazine collaboration, Holland America cruises offered us two wineries to try in one relaxing afternoon.

From our host we learned that Crete is 165 miles long from one end to the other. There are four main areas, and over one million people. While winters are mild (we were there early October and it was perfect) the summers are excruciatingly hot.

Greeks languish over wine tasting with plenty of food pairings, which would extend for hours if there also happened to be a celebration such as a wedding or birthday. Wine drinking is “a very social thing” and Greeks “eat and drink slowly and steadily for hours.”

The terrain, rocky and mountainous, lends itself to both Greek and non-Greek wine grapes. Traditionally there are 16 varieties most used: eight are local and the remaining eight are international; four in each category are white, the other four are red. But there are thousands of varieties made.

Note: I have had tastings and Greek wine education, but it had been years so this was a great way to renew my education and interest. Also of notes, the pricing of these Greek wines was more than reasonable and many guests bought bottles to have on the boat, to take home and for gifts. Now let me share some of my tasting notes and takeaways from the two wineries:

Karavitakis Winery

These wines were served with salty black olives, local hard sharp cheese and delicious croutons made with black olives and plentifully topped with sesame seeds.

2021 Kompsos (white)

Vidiano, Assyrtiko, Malvasia grapes

13% alcohol

9 Euros

The name Kompsos means elegant, and this wine was made from three local varieties. It tasted like a dry Sauvignon Blanc to my palate plus the fruit of a Viognier. It had low acid with plenty of lime and Meyer lemon; it was fresh with a light viscosity. A great start for me.

2021 Moschato Spinas (dry white)

9 Euros

With sweet stone fruit, Earl Gray tea and a lemony finish the winery host said the wine as a good aperitif and I had to agree.

2021 Kompsos Liatiko Rose

10 Euros

This Rose wine, my first time tasting a Greek Rose, was “elegant” just as the name Kompsos promised. The color was a peachy salmon, with aromas of watermelon and talcum powder – which I happen to love! The flavor reminded me of the freshest of strawberries and watermelon, with a slight acidity.

2020 Klima Kotsifali Mavrotragano (red)

10 Euros

The work Klima refers to climate, and the words Kotsifali Mavrotragano refer to the two grape varieties used, which should express itself with a “lighter color, body and tannins.” Other wineries mostly “add Syrah for color”, but the Mavrotragano does the trick as it’s a “black grape…crisp…and (we) only used 10%.” I got stewed cranberry, cherry, and other red fruits in this dry wine. It reminded me of a terroir-rich Pinot Noir or Grenache, and it was my favorite wine in the line-up.

2019 Eca Blend (red)

18 Euros

This was the favorite for most of the people in our tour. It is named after an olive tree located 1-½ miles away from the winery and credited for being over 3,000 years old. The wine is 70% Syrah, 20% Grenache Rose and 10% Carignan. Smelled very much like a Cabernet Sauvignon to me, and the guest nearest me said it “tastes like velvet.” Our winery host said the wine could age for 10 years. (All of the other wines were ready to drink now.) While the nose was dry, the flavors in the glass were that raspberry and cranberry fruit again.

2010 Viates Avo Purasko (sweet red wine, no photo)

Barbera clone

30 Euros

I got wonderful notes of caramel, plum, currant…and it reminded me very much of a ruby Port wine.

Manousakis Winery

Our winery host explained that the Manousakis family created the winery – with the help of experts – due to the growing tourism in Greece in the late 1980s.

These wines were paired with a toasted brown crouton-type cracker that was served with a rock-type white salt and olive oil they made at the winery.

2018 Nostos “The Journey” Assyrtiko (white)

Very lemony and tart, with notes of lime, green grass (aroma only!), and yellow apple. It was refreshing, and, like the white we started with at Karavitakis, refreshing.

2020 Nostos Muscat of Spina (white, dry Muscat)

Honeyed, peach, dried apricot, with a nice acidity and dryness. This was the group’s favorite of the two whites.

2016 Nostos “The Journey” Grenache (red)

This was my favorite wine at Manousakis. Stems, black and red cherry, dry, tannic, balanced, and it reminded me of a nice cherry liqueur, thought it was very well done.

2018 Nostos Blend (red)

14.5% alcohol

Balanced, brighter than the Alexander (below) but a similar profile. Thought the blend wasn’t mentioned, or on the label, my guess that it was also a GSM blend.

2018 Nostos Alexander (red)

40% Syrah, 40% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre young vines.

14.5% alcohol

Black cherry, both sweet and dry, with chocolate notes, sweet pipe smoke and firm tannins. This was also a favorite of the group’s and mine.

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Other things we learned in Greece, between this tour and one other with a Greek guide included:

The olive trees are plentiful and very old. I rarely saw a vineyard, but I saw plenty of olive trees!

Greeks are friendly people, lots of smiles and greetings, arguments are short-lived and be careful when they talk with their hands as they are far-reaching!

Websites and social media:

https://www.instagram.com/karavitakis_winery/

https://www.facebook.com/karavitakiswines

https://www.manousakiswinery.com/

https://www.instagram.com/manousakis_winery/

https://www.facebook.com/ManousakisWinery

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Behind the Wine by Dawn Abasta-Poulsen: Jamie Slone Wines

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When you talk to Jamie about wine, his passion for wine and his community shine through!  He loves the Santa Barbara region and the wine community there. Jamie, like many wine makers did not start out his adult life as a winemaker. He was an entrepreneur. Up until the early 2000s he ran five radio stations in the Tucson area of Arizona, then once he sold those stations he fulfilled his lifelong dream and became a racecar driver from 2005-2013. To say he is driven to succeed at everything he touches is an understatement. After having conquered the race world by coming in second at almost every one of his championship races.  Jamie decided he wanted to fulfill another dream of his, owning a winery. So thus began Jamie Slone Wines. He chose Santa Barbara, because in his and many others opinion, it is the best wine region to grow wine grapes. 

Santa Barbara is rich with a variety of soil types and this gives winemakers like Jamie the tools to really be creative with their wines and create one of a kind distinctive blend. In 2014 he released his first wines.  First his red blend called BoRific, which is Jamie’s nickname for his wife Kym. BoRific is a Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Malbec and Petit Verdot. It’s rich and delicious! He also released a Pinot Noir, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay. 

Most of his wine is sourced from vineyards in Santa Rita Hills and Happy Canyon; these offer him the best of both worlds, one is lusher and cooler at night and the other is dryer and hotter.  He spends a lot of time analyzing and choosing the best possible process for that season’s harvest.  To quote Jamie “Each year is a fresh new painting, I use fruit to sculpt that year’s wine.” 

When asked what the inspiration behind his wine was, Jamie said he wanted flexibility and a creative outlet. Something he could be proud of.  In his words he wanted to create a “fabulous experience.”  

We then talked about his favorite over the years.  He said consistently his Super Tuscan, but every year there is a special one he likes most.  Right now, he says his 2019 Grenache is outstanding!

I then told him a firsthand story about his Super Tuscan. It was September 2017 and my wine group and I were on our summer excursion. My friend Jeff had told me I needed to go and check out Jamie Slone, so we made it one of our stops that day. It was late afternoon and we were just about done with our tasting. All of us had loved everything we tasted and three of us joined the winery club that very afternoon. Then when we were about to leave it started to rain pretty hard outside. So, we decided why walk around in the rain when we could just chill there and ride out the storm. We ordered a bottle of the Super Tuscan and road out the brief storm in the comfort of his beautiful tasting room. It was the highlight of that trip! Jamie shows passion in every wine he serves and he works hard to personally craft his wine so that every one of them gives his customers a truly “fabulous experience.” You can check out his winery at 23 E De La Guerra St in Santa Barbara CA 93101