Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: Emmitt-Scorsone Wines

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We were very much interested in visiting “new to us” wineries on our trip to the Santa Rosa / Healdsburg area, and Emmitt-Scorsone definitely fit that requirement. Heading west from the town of Healdsburg into the Dry Creek Valley, we immediately encountered the change in scenery that is so common to wine regions. The road to the winery soon became only one lane in parts and we were thankful that the only car that we encountered heading toward us was small enough that neither had to execute any complicated maneuvers [like backing up!].

Still, we managed to arrive a little early and had a chance to talk to the owner of the property, David Merrill. He spoke fondly of his desire to just focus on tending to the grapes and his pleasure at having the Emmitt-Scorsone winery on site to handle winemaking duties, both from his estate grapes (the property, known as the Vinegrove, is about 32 acres with 7+ planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Petite Sirah) as well the ones the winery owners source from other areas.

We sat on the back patio – in a land of spectacular views, this is a great one – and were soon joined by winery co-owner and co-winemaker, Michael Scorsone. Michael became interested in the wine world early, moving to Napa after first graduating from the CIA in New York and then UNLV. He worked at wineries in Napa, Italy and New Zealand, eventually becoming assistant winemaker at Failla under Ehren Jordan [we’re big fans of Ehren from his days at Turley]. Michael then consulted for Fred Schrader of Schrader Cellars and then moved on to become head winemaker at Adobe Road for several years.

Michael’s assistant winemaker at Adobe was Palmer Emmitt. Palmer had a very different path to the wine world, having been an international level racing skier and then having a ten-year career working in feature film production. During that time, Palmer developed a passion for wine, eventually achieving advanced sommelier certifications from the WSET. He moved to Northern California to attend Sonoma State’s wine MBA program. As mentioned, he worked with Michael at Adobe and they made the jump in 2015 to start Emmitt-Scorsone.    

Emmitt-Scorsone actually has three labels.

Judge Palmer is named after Palmer’s grandfather. The focus of this label is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon from prestigious Napa Valley vineyards and relatively undiscovered Sonoma County sites as well as classic grape varieties like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

Domenica Amato is named after Michael’s grandmother – her immigration picture is on the label – and focuses on Rhone and Italian varietals.

Finally, the Emmitt-Scorsone brand is more value oriented and provides a good entry point to discovering the winery.

Michael asked if we had an interest in white wines or just wanted to focus on reds. If you’ve read our articles at all in the last couple of years you know what our answer was. Michael then asked “do you like getting a little funky with your whites?” We said “heck yeah” and we were ready to taste:

2019 Domenica Amato Vermentino – from the Mahoney vineyard in Carneros; part of the vineyard is in Sonoma and part in Napa. The wine spent 10 months in Italian clay amphorae. Meyer lemon notes, crisp medium finish with a kiss of saltiness, reminiscent of the ocean air.

2020 Domenica Amato Viognier – from the Salomon Vineyard near Kenwood in the Sonoma Valley. This wine spent ten months in neutral oak barrels. With a tart peach nose, this wine is luscious and rich and had a medium finish.

2019 Domenica Amato Gusto Bianco – a complex blend of 48% Viognier, 47% Grenache Blanc [both from Sonoma County] and 5% Fiano all the way from Clarksburg in Yolo County. It was light and bright with a tangerine nose.

2016 Domenica Amato Roussanne from the Bennett Valley.  An Orange Wine [i.e. skin contact white] that was interesting in all the good ways. Only made two barrels, very complex and fresh.

2019 Domenica Amato Barbera from the Dry Creek Valley. Cherry notes with bright clean fruit. Classic bramble notes but with finesse and elegance.  Very nice.

2018  Domenica Amato Gusto Rosso Estate Red blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petite Sirah, showcasing all the estate vineyard has to offer. Big and bright from the Grenache with a medium finish. Good rusticity with a very slight gaminess that makes you want another taste.

2018 Judge Palmer Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Terrace — the winery makes a few Cabs, this one is from their estate vineyard.  Just a couple of barrels made of this. The wine was concentrated and intense with great depth and a long finish.

2019 Domenica Amato Grenache Estate – 100% Grenache from the estate. A little light in color but not in bouquet or flavor with plenty of clean red fruit. Grenache as it should be made with no attempt to over-extract it. Delicious.

In wrapping up our visit, we asked Michael what he wanted people to know about Emmitt-Scorsone Wines. He responded that it was important that people realize that the winery is just these two guys with a passion for wine. They said to each other “let’s make wine” and started with only a couple of barrels. Production is small, just about 3,000 cases and they still do everything by themselves. Their passion comes through in every bottle.

Emmitt-Scorsone Wines

www.emmittscorsone.com

1830 Jameson Rd, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Discovering the White Wine Winery Acquiesce, a Lodi Treasure

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In planning a recent Napa trip one of my friends suggested we spend a day in Lodi. The last time I visited Lodi was virtually, when several winemakers came to LA to present a seminar and tasting. It was so long ago, possibly ten years, that all I recall was tasting old vine Zinfandels, a wine the area was known for.

We visited four wineries that day. All had at least one or more wines that I enjoyed from whites to old vine Zinfandels. One winery stood out. First because they only make white Rhone varietals (some which were new to me) and one rose, but as I tasted through their lineup, and made my notations, it turned out that every single wine I tried I wanted to buy.

Fast forward to planning this trip. I went to the LA Wine Writers group on Facebook and asked my associates who I should visit. Then I reached out to Lodi.com to help me plan the trip. As I only had one day I wanted to focus on the wines alone, there would be no time for winery or vineyard tours. We also invited Steve and Vashti Roebuck (wine bloggers, collectors and admins of the popular Wine in the Glass Facebook group) to join us.

Acquiesce Winery

This is an excerpt from my upcoming article in SCV Elite Magazine, “The first on my list to try was a winery recommended to me by more than one wine loving pal: Acquiesce Winery. We were awestruck by all of the gorgeous white wines, and one Rose, during our “Elevated Tasting Experience” there. Many are award winners from respected competitions: 2020 Ingenue, 2021 Grenache Rose, 2020 Bourboulenc, 2020 Clairette Blanche, 2021 Picpoul Blanc, 2021 Viognier, 2020 and 2021 Grenache Blanc. Don’t miss these Chateauneuf du Pape inspired Rhônes by winemaker Susan Tipton.” Here is the link to the social media post that also includes notes and photos from Acquiesce and other Lodi wineries we visited that day.

To expand, the Elevated Tasting Experience, seen here in the photo by Steve Roebuck, was a great pairing! (Not every food and wine pairing is spot on but theirs was.) And for Steve Roebuck and me, as it’s our practice to sample wines without food, it was difficult not to sample those small bites. But the wine…oh how I wish I could have lingered there all day. Also of note: most of these wines were less than $30 each.

The Pairing

We began with the 2021 Picpoul Blanc paired with Italian salsa, Spenker Goat Ricotta Tartine. Next was their 2021 Grenache Rose alongside Radish Tartine with Butter (butter is always a good choice!) and Cracked Pepper. Our third was the 2020 Grenache Blanc with Asparagus (a hard vegetable to pair), Ricotta, Preserved Lemons on Pumpernickel and then our final pairing with the 2020 Clairette Blanche with a Dijon Tarragon Tuna, Tomato, Tartine on Rye. All pretty simple and simply delish. (Note: this was their April Pairing Menu, titled “We Love Tartines” and their May pairing was geared toward the recent Cinco de Mayo holiday. So know that you will most likely have a different menu when you visit – don’t forget to make reservations – but I would make a bet that it would be just as yum-worthy. And when I last checked their website for the price it was only $20!)

Tasting Notes Courtesy Steve Roebuck:

2021 Picpoul Blanc

Score: 92 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Picpoul Blanc

Wafting from my glass was an elegant bouquet of fresh cut apples, pears, lemon curd, crushed seashells, wet river rocks and a touch of lemon grass. The wine had nice acidity with a crisp palate giving way to hints of green apple, pears, melon, citrus oil, lemon grass, crushed minerals, and a soft note of dill on the finish with a splash of lemon. The wine is beautifully balanced with fresh orchard fruits and crisp minerals that seamlessly intertwine together. 

2021 Grenache Rose

Score: 92 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Grenache Noir

This light salmon colored wine had a lovely bouquet of strawberries, melon, raspberries, Jolly Roger candy and dried hay bale. The wine had a nice level of acidity that brought balance to a palate painted with strawberries, watermelon, cherry, lemon zest and crushed gravel. The wine was refreshingly crisp with a beautiful layering of fruits and bright terroir notes. This wine is reminiscent of a French Provence rose wine; thus, an elegant and sophisticated style. 

2020 Grenache Blanc

Score:  93 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend:  100% Grenache Blanc

The wine had an expressive bouquet of cut apples, white peach, cut almonds, wet river rocks, chalky minerals and a note of marzipan. The wine is full bodied with a nice level of acidity, giving way to hints of green apple, white peach, wet slate, chalky minerals and a finish with softly brined apricots. This vivacious wine had lovely layers of fruit that harmoniously blended with the wonderful terroir notes. 

2020 Clairette Blanche

Score:  93 Points

Location:  Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Clairette Blanche

This rare beauty had an eloquent bouquet of poached pears, apricots, white tea, ginger cookie, marzipan, dried herbs, grapefruit and soft hints of yellow beeswax.  The wine is full-bodied with bright acidity that gives way to a palate painted with mixed orchard fruits, crisp minerals, light spice, fresh herbs and a touch of white fig on the finish. There is beauty here with a tapestry of fruit, exotic spice, and lovely terroir notes. 

2020 Ingenue

Score: 94 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Ingenue

The wine had a floral bouquet of white flowers, poached pears, apple pie crust, kiwi, orange blossoms, cut almonds, dried herbs, lemon and crushed minerals. The wine was medium-bodied with lovely acidity that brightened the palate with hints of fresh apple, honeydew melon, vanilla, soft citrus oil, crushed gravel and a drop of honey on the finish. The wine is complex with beautiful layers of fruit and earth that harmonize wonderfully together. 

2020 Bourboulenc

Score: 91 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Bourboulenc

This wine had a lovely bouquet of green apples, pears, white peach, lemon grass, chamomile tea and a splash of brine. The wine had nice acidity that gave way to hints of white peach, sliced apple, lime, beeswax, and white pepper. The wine is refreshing and crisp on the palate with soft notes of spice and orchard fruits. 

2021 Viognier

Score: 95 Points

Location: Lodi, California

Blend: 100% Viognier

The wine had an alluring bouquet of white flowers, lavender, jasmine, pears, peaches, honeysuckle, white pepper, crushed stone and a touch of pineapple. The wine is medium ++ in body with a beautiful level of acidity that gives way to hints of tropical and orchard fruits, honeysuckle, exotic spice, soft brine, river rocks, and a kiss of citrus. The wine is complex with harmonizing layers of fruit and earth that play beautifully together. The wine is reminiscent of a French Rhone, as it is showing in an old-world style. 

More

The winemaker and owner, Susan Tipton, led our tasting. She told us that they started ten years ago, after she fell in love with white Chateauneuf du Pape wines. Her vineyards are all estate-owned and are dedicated to white wine grapes alone. None are oaked. The area has a Mediterranean climate, warm days, cool nights and a Delta breeze.

We purchased a case of wine each, the Roebucks and us, and I’ve since been looking over the club membership: six bottles delivered twice a year, in April and October, 20% off any purchases, complimentary tastings at the winery and invitations to release parties and pick up events.

Read this to see how well their wines did at the recent San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. (Short answer: They won four Best of Class Awards – and over 5,800 wines were judged.)

From the Winery

Do you love white wines? Located in the Lodi Appellation we offer estate grown, award-winning premium white and rosé wines lovingly created in small batches. We carefully craft these unique wines: Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc, Belle Blanc and Ingénue (white blends) and a Grenache Rosé. Join us by appointment, Thursday – Sunday 11-5 for our Elevated Tasting Experience

Elevated Tasting Experience reservations à https://www.exploretock.com/acquiescewinery

Homepage
https://www.facebook.com/AcquiesceWinery
https://www.instagram.com/acquiescewinery/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

South Coast Winery Garners 20 Awards from LA Competition

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Gleason Family Vineyards Santa Barbara County Wine Country Portfolio Acquires Solvang, CA’s Buttonwood Farm Winery & Vineyard

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Santa Ynez, CA – The Gleason Family Vineyards Santa Ynez Valley portfolio of brands (Roblar Winery and Vineyards, Refugio Ranch Vineyards) has officially announced the December 2021 acquisition of Solvang, California’s Buttonwood Farm Winery & Vineyard (www.ButtonwoodWinery.com), a 106-acre property in the heart of Santa Barbara County wine country.

Buttonwood Farm Winery & Vineyard currently comprises a 42-acre estate vineyard, onsite winery facility, tasting room and gardens, a two-acre orchard, small hop yard, and 10 acres of rotated seasonal produce. The property, founded in 1968 on a principle of sustainability, was first utilized as an equestrian operation, followed by the planting of organic fruits and vegetables, and in 1983, the initial planting of the vineyard.

Originally created by Betty Williams, a founder of The Land Trust for Santa Barbara County and an engaged community planning member, Buttonwood’s sustainable vineyard was first planted with a focus on Bordeaux-style wines. The vineyard evolved over time, and small blocks of Grenache Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Grenache, Syrah, Sauvignon Musqué, and Malbec joined the original plantings of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sémillon, and Sauvignon Blanc. The entire vineyard is own-rooted.

Bret Davenport, president and managing partner of Buttonwood, along with his wife Barry Zorthian and partner, Seyburn Zorthian, have been instrumental in furthering Williams’ vision for the Buttonwood property. Williams and Davenport partnered in 1983 with the original planting of the vineyard, continuing in 1989 with the building and bonding of the winery. Seyburn Zorthian has been the designing artist of Buttonwood’s labels since the founding, working from her studio on the property since the early 1970s.

Bret Davenport commented, “It’s been fascinating to review our family’s fifty-plus years here on Buttonwood Farm. We’ve observed the evolution of our wine region, partnered with wonderful people to create special occasions with the land as the backdrop, and enjoyed the wine and food that we grew. My partners and I feel that we are handing over the Buttonwood legacy to the right people, who share our philosophy of preserving the intrinsic character of this special land. We look forward to seeing this new chapter in Buttonwood’s history unfold.”

Kevin Gleason, proprietor of the Gleason Family Vineyard portfolio along with his wife, Niki Gleason, added, “Buttonwood farm and vineyard property is iconic, and the family behind it has such deep roots in this wine region, and in the area’s agricultural community. As a family owned and operated group, this resonated highly with us, and we look forward to becoming new stewards for this land to continue to prosper and evolve.”

In 2004, Niki and Kevin Gleason purchased a Santa Ynez Valley cattle ranch which had been used for grazing for hundreds of years. The 415-acre site, now Refugio Ranch, sits along the northern face of the Santa Ynez Mountains with the Santa Ynez River serving as its northern property border. The Gleasons planted 26 acres of vines in 2006, and produced their first Refugio Ranch Vineyards wines in 2008.

In 2017, the Gleasons purchased Santa Ynez Valley’s Roblar Winery and Vineyards, Royal Oaks Wines, and what was then-Royal Oaks Ranch which, in 2018, became the planting site for the family’s one-acre organic farm, now Roblar Farm. The proprietary farm sparked the introduction of new food menus and summer of 2021, the Gleason Family Vineyards portfolio announced new executive chef and head of culinary operations, Peter Cham, as part of the brands’ concerted expansion of Santa Barbara wine country hospitality experiences.

“Buttonwood fits extraordinarily well into our existing portfolio, not only due to its ideal positioning within the Santa Ynez Valley wine region, but also due to the farm component of the property and the hospitality for which Buttonwood is well known,” said Matthew Bieszard, Gleason Family Vineyards General Manager. He continued, “We are very excited about the possibilities Buttonwood has as a vineyard, farm, brand, and winery, and we look forward to putting the Gleason Family Vineyards touch on each facet of the business.”

Karen Steinwachs, Buttonwood’s winemaker for the past 14 years and one of the region’s trailblazing women winemakers with a double-decade wine industry career, will remain part of the Buttonwood winemaking team. Buttonwood’s winery will continue to operate, with the Gleason Family Vineyards portfolio’s winery facility on the Roblar property serving as the winemaking hub for all brands, led by head winemaker Max Marshak.

Buttonwood Farm Winery and Vineyard, located at 1500 Alamo Pintado Road, Solvang, CA, is currently open daily for outdoor wine tasting experiences and bottle purchases, 11:00 AM to 3:00 PM. Advance tasting reservations are recommended.

Roblar Winery and Vineyards, located at 3010 Roblar Avenue (at the intersection of Roblar Avenue and Highway 154), Santa Ynez, CA, is open daily for wine tasting experiences and bottle purchases, 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM. Advance tasting reservations are requested. Chef Cham’s weekly “Bites Menus” are offered Friday through Sunday, and house-made, to-go style sandwiches and salads are available in Roblar’s “bodega” the remainder of the week.

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Roblar Winery and Vineyards

3010 Roblar Avenue

Santa Ynez, CA 93460

Phone: 805.686.2603

www.RoblarWinery.com

Refugio Ranch Vineyards

2990 Grand Avenue

Los Olivos, CA 93441

Phone: 805.697.5289

www.RefugioRanch.com

Buttonwood Farm Winery & Vineyard

1500 Alamo Pintado Roadso
Solvang, CA 93463
Phone: 805.688.3032

www.ButtonwoodWinery.com

About the Gleason Family Vineyards Portfolio

The Gleason Family Vineyards (www.GleasonFamilyVineyards.com) hospitality portfolio is an independent, family owned and operated group of brands which includes Roblar Winery and Vineyards, Refugio Ranch Vineyards, and now, Buttonwood Farm Winery & Vineyard.

The Gleason family’s carefully-selected and meticulously farmed Santa Ynez Valley estate vineyards produce a variety of grapes from Sauvignon Blanc to Roussanne, Grenache to Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon to Syrah, all destined for expertly-crafted wines from the seasoned team of winemaker, Max Marshak, and assistant winemaker, Kat Neenan.

Roblar Winery and Vineyards (www.RoblarWinery.com), 40 acres of grand oak-studded grounds located at the crossroads of the Santa Barbara County towns of Santa Ynez and Los Olivos, offers immersive wine country itineraries for afternoons, overnights, and private events. The property boasts a 5,000-square-foot tasting room and multiple outdoor seating and event areas, and includes the luxe Roblar Farm ranch home, complete with an infinity pool overlooking vineyard views. Celebrate special occasions with an intimate chef’s dinner in the state of the art winery, on the one-acre, organic Roblar Farm, or at the estate’s black-and-white, indoor-outdoor event venue, the Tuxedo Barn. @RoblarWinery

The Los Olivos, CA tasting room for Refugio Ranch Vineyards (www.RefugioRanch.com), built c.1912, served as the warehouse for Pinal-Dome Refining Co. (later Union Oil), where tank cars from the Pacific Coast Railway were filled. The historical, early-1900s warehouse has been preserved, and now features two wine tasting bars, a VIP lounge, and an expansive outdoor deck, one of the largest tasting locations in Los Olivos. The 415-acre Refugio Ranch estate may be toured by appointment, awarding guests with wine tasting by the property’s Upper Pond, with views of the Santa Ynez Valley and San Rafael Mountains. @RefugioRanch

Perlises Pick: Caliza Winery

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When we decided it was time to visit wine country again, selecting the region was pretty easy. Paso Robles has long been a favorite of ours, going back to the 1980s[!]. Deciding who to visit was a little tougher – there are a lot of people who we consider friends in Paso and many of the wineries are on our “favorites” list. In addition, there are many new wineries that deserve attention.

One thing that was certain was that we needed to visit Carl Bowker at Caliza Winery. The one and only time that we did visit Caliza must have been soon after they opened the tasting room in 2008 – Pam and Carl Bowker had started making wine commercially with the 2006 vintage, but didn’t make their first wines available until late 2008. [We had actually tried to plan a visit in 2018 but couldn’t coordinate schedules.] Since that one time, we had relied on tasting Carl’s efforts at various events, such as Rhone Rangers and the Garagiste Festivals and they were always outstanding. But with no events happening in the last year and a half, visiting became a must.

Upon our arrival at the winery at the end of Anderson Road in the Willow Creek District AVA, Carl gave us a 4-wheel tour of the hillside vineyard adjacent to the tasting room. Carl explained that while the Caliza property is 60 acres, only 28 of those acres are planted. The expected Rhone varieties are there [Syrah, Grenache, Roussanne, Viognier, Mourvedre / Mataro], along with some Primitivo, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo and Tannat. Limestone and slate dominate the soil in this area [Caliza means “limestone” in Spanish]. The qualities of the soil and the climate of the Templeton Gap are what make this AVA so unique and enables Caliza and neighbors such as L’Aventure and Booker to make such great wines, as do other wineries that source fruit from the area.

And great wines they are. Sitting outside with Carl and tasting through the lineup reminded us of how much we enjoy his wines:

2020 “Pink” Rosé – One of the more complex rosés we’ve had, with a rich, strong finish and notes of white peach; a very bright blend of Grenache and Mourvedre.

2019 Viognier – This delicious 100% Viognier was concrete egg fermented. We noted ripe melon fruit with a dry, medium finish, and a full mouthfeel.

2019 Kissin Cousins – the 2020 vintage is already sold out but fortunately Carl has some of the 2019 left of this blend (48% Viognier, 30% Grenache Blanc, 22% Roussanne) that is always one of our favorites. Fermented in a combination of neutral and new oak and stainless steel (depending on the varietal) this wine had a solid mid- palate, clean stone fruit, and white flowers on the nose.

2019 Sidekick – another tasty white blend, this one 80% Roussanne and 20% Viognier. Barrel aged with a rich golden color, and notes of fresh straw and chalk, this is a serious food wine.

2018 Azimuth –the first of four outstanding reds that we tasted, this one is a blend of 50% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Huge fruit, notes of cherry, complex but balanced.

2017 Cohort – 58% Petite Sirah, 28% Syrah, 14% Mourvedre. This one was held back a year so the Petite could integrate, which it certainly did in this superb inky blend.

2018 Syrah – no nickname needed for this delicious 100% Syrah. It was fresh, bright, big and rich.

2018 Companion – the only wine that contains some non-estate fruit, this blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Syrah created a terrific symbiotic pairing.

The accompanying cheese board from Paso favorite Vivant Fine Cheese with pairings selected specifically for the wines tasted just added to the experience, as did the great vineyard view from the patio.

As we were leaving, Carl mentioned that he had another important writer stopping in after us…from The Wine Advocate. Now that is impressive, but equally so is how Carl considered us to be important too. It goes to show you that he and the rest of the Caliza staff treats everyone with the same importance no matter who you are.

We Perlises don’t give number ratings, but we thought we’d share these with you from hugely respected critic, Jeb Dunnuck [as per the Caliza website]:

2018 Azimuth            95 points

2018 Companion      95 points

2018 Syrah               95 points

2017 Cohort              94 points

In your visits to Paso Robles wine country, you might be tempted to not go all the way to the end of Anderson Road. We really think you should because, if you don’t, you’ll be missing out on some great wines and wonderful down-to-earth people.

Caliza Winery

www.calizawinery.com

2570 Anderson Road
Paso Robles, CA 93446

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick: What Wines We Are Drinking At Home – Part 6

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Admittedly, we meant to get back to this sooner. In wrapping up the discussion for now of the lighter wines we are drinking at home, this article will focus on a few more Northern California favorites.

Shane [www.shanewines.com]

We first discovered the wines made by Shane Finley several years ago. Back before Facebook became so popular, Michael relied on various wine message boards for news. And that was how he first heard about Shane and his eponymous label. The buzz was actually pretty compelling so Michael took a chance. We immediately became big fans of his Syrah and later [gasp!] his Pinot Noir. For lighter wines, Shane used to make a Grenache Blanc, but the last vintage of this seems to have been 2014. We’ve enjoyed his Rose, which used to be made from Syrah grapes but now with Pinot Noir. But the real showstopper for us in the light wine department is his Sauvignon Blanc under his Constant Disruptions label, which is a sub-project of his Shane brand.

Shane’s Constant Disruptions bottle art shows a picture of his parents as a young couple. The name “Constant Disruptions” refers to a comment about Shane on one of his early report cards, the Sauvignon Blanc is called “Infraction”. The wines are typically single varietal and the pricing is really amazing for what’s in the bottle. For those of you that fear Sauv Blanc due to its high acidity, you’ll have nothing to be scared of here – just rich pure delicious fruit. The 2019 was from the Russian River Valley. It had lemon notes with a lingering medium finish and paired perfectly with our roasted cod. Unfortunately, this was our last bottle of the 2019. Fortunately, our case of 2020s just arrived!

Navarro Vineyards [www.navarrowine.com]

In our search for lighter wines, we’ve taken the opportunity to try to some wines that we’ve been receiving emails from for what seems like years but had not checked out. One of these is Navarro.

Navarro is in Mendocino’s Anderson Valley. One of the special things about Mendocino County, in addition to the abundance of tasty wines, are the not-Napa/Sonoma prices, especially Navarro’s mixed-case specials. So far, we’ve especially enjoyed the Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer, both from the 2018 vintage. The Chard was medium-bodied with vanilla and pear notes – not over the top as it too often seems to be these days. The Gewurtz showed peach and lychee on the palate, a bright melon nose and a medium-to-long finish with crisp acidity. It paired perfectly with chicken in a honey/mustard sauce.

They are definitely on our list to visit when we start traveling to Nor Cal again.

Keplinger [www.keplingerwines.com]

Helen Keplinger is a superstar winemaker, having gained her reputation making wine for Grace Family Vineyards and Bryant Family Vineyard, among others. She is now totally focused on making wine for the label that bears her name. When we think of the Keplinger wines, we usually think of her powerful Syrahs and Rhone blends, so the relatively delicate nature of both the 2019 Eldorado and the 2020 Rose were somewhat of a surprise to us.

Not that their delicacy implied lack of flavor or complexity. The Rose is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre from the Shake Ridge Vineyard in Amador County. It has a luscious floral nose, with peach notes and a light to medium finish. The Rose is very crisp and paired perfectly with a salmon mousse appetizer. The Eldorado is a vibrant blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc from Amador County. We noted guava tones and a long smooth finish.

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick: What Wines We Are Drinking At Home – Part 3

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When I started writing this series of articles about the lighter wines Karen and I have been drinking recently, I hadn’t really thought that so many of them would be from Paso Robles. After all, Paso’s reputation [at least in my mind] is for big delicious Reds, and there certainly are a lot of those coming from this area. And we don’t limit ourselves to PR’s AVAs, as I expect you know. But, as I’ve said, great winemakers make great wine, regardless of color, and here are three more wineries that produce some of our favorite lighter wines from the area. As an added bonus, they are all somehow connected to each other.

We’ve actually known Guillaume Fabre of Clos Solene www.clossolene.com the longest of these three, having met him at an event back in 2009. He was pouring his first vintage – a delicious Roussanne – and was still assistant winemaker at L’Aventure. But 2009 was long ago. We’ve followed him to the shared Paso Underground tasting room in downtown to Paso Robles and then to Tin City just south of downtown Paso. Now he and his wife Solene have their own property in the Willow Creek District of Paso Robles, from which they are creating some of the best wines in the region. I’ve always felt that his Red wines did a great job of showing how their inherent power could be softened into elegance without losing the characteristics of Paso.

The lighter wines are equally as stylish. Karen loves all of them when “paired with our “Snacks– Hunkered Down” nights of charcuterie and/or smoked fish, various cheeses, dried and fresh fruit, followed by lemon cookies or a scoop of ice cream.”

The pink La Rose is a Rhone blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah, made from grapes specifically farmed for rosé – no saignee here! Very pale in color that belies the complexity of the wine itself.

Clos Solene’s Hommage Blanc is a classic white Rhone blend of mainly Roussanne plus Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Karen found it to be “full bodied…flowers, fruit, spices…”

Finally, En Coulisse is 100% Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyards. A nice rich Chard, and [per Karen] “not overpowering with oak, vanilla or butter but fruit forward…”

Guillaume is also partner in another Paso Robles winery with his brother Arnaud –

Benom Wines www.benomwines.com. They originally took over Clos Solene’s spot in Tin City, although I believe they have now moved to a larger space in the same area.

The name Benom is a riff on the French word “binôme” which translates to “a project together”. These French brothers have successfully combined their homeland’s heritage with all that Paso has to offer, with their blends showing what can be done by them in a place with no rules. No surprise, again, that the red wines are great, but this article is focusing on these lighter wines.

The L’Essor rosé combines Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon and Contrast is a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Neither of these could be made back home due to the rules about combining grapes from different regions. And they clearly should be. Karen loved the “bright fruit” of the L’Essor and found the Contrast to be “crisp, clean, full of fruit…”

As I mentioned at the start, this article is about three wineries that are somehow connected. Arnaud Fabre of Benom is also marketing director at Law Estate Wines www.lawestatewines.com, another winery that we first tasted at a festival. This time it was the Ojai Wine Festival back in 2013, when Karen came up to me and said “you really have to try Law”.

As always, she was right and we have been big fans since. We met GM Oliver Esparham at the Ojai Festival and have visited him and the rest of our friends at Law at the state-of-the-art winery and tasting room many times – once even before it was complete. The winery and vineyards high up on Peachy Canyon are amazing in their own right. But, that would mean nothing if the wines didn’t match. And they definitely do. The Law wines are truly some of the best ones around.

With regard to lighter wines, Law makes two. The Rosé blend is typically Grenache based while the white Rhone blend Soph [named after the Laws’ granddaughter] is usually about half Roussanne. The exact blends vary from year to year for both of these, but they are always stunning and are present on our table [and in our glasses] often. I love that the description on the website refers to Soph as “an extremely moreish wine”. We definitely agree on that.

Next article, we’ll finally leave Paso Robles and look at wines from farther north. Unless I change my mind.

Clos Solene

www.clossolene.com

Benom

www.benomwines.com

Law Estate Wines

www.lawestatewines.com

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also President of MCP Financial, which provides outsourced controller services. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or mcpfinancial@aol.com.

Vintage Eve Circa 7/2018: Canned Bonny Doon Fizzy White and Pink…Would you try?

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I shared a press release recently on canned wines. Suffice it to say, most of the comments, mine included, were biased against canned wines. Most of us didn’t care for the presentation – just like the people that resist screw capped wines for their lack of romance – and some questioned if there was a metallic taste. Got a lot of discussion in one of my Facebook posts and prompted the powers that be at Bonny Doon Vineyard to send me some canned wines to sample.

The two cans I tried below did turn me around. There was no problem with the flavor in these lighter-styled wines sparkling wines:

Fizzy White

AKA La Bulle-Moose Blanche

100% Vermentino

Color: Dried hay, and a little fresh green grass.

Aroma: Pineapple, lemon hard candy, kiwi, wet concrete, cantaloupe and honeydew melon.

Flavor in a wine glass: tingly, Prosecco-like, that same lemon but not as sweet, more like a light lemonade, paler melon fruit, green apple.

Flavor from the can: Same, of course, maybe more fizzy but that may just be perception.

 

Fizzy Pink of the Earth

AKA La Bulle-Moose de Cigare

57% Grenache, 18% Grenache Blanc, 9% Mourvèdre, 6% Roussanne, 5% Carignane, 5% Cinsaut 

Color: Peach, rose gold.

Aroma: Bruised strawberry, yellow peach, raspberry, lemon-lime, akin to sparkling wine.

Flavor in a wine glass: overall light nuances of fruit cocktail, pear and peach with a medium finish.

Flavor from the can: same.

 

Conclusion

Basically: Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. The company sent me two of each flavor and my husband liked the idea of keeping the two we didn’t open in the fridge to have on our porch before dinner some night soon. I liked the idea of just splitting a can of wine before dinner, and before moving over to cocktails or a full bottle of wine to pair with our meal.

I also felt that both of these would also lend themselves well in a Sangria with fruit, and maybe a little rum or spirit of your choice.

I would probably have a harder time being convinced of the merits of a heartier or higher quality wine served in a can. I also can’t imagine moving people with strong opinions for cork closures to try canned wines any more than they would accept screw-capped wines. It’s just too much change…for the present. Who knows how wines will be served in 100 or so years? Everything may be canned soon enough.

Side note, I’m not a fan of wines with names that do little to tell you what grapes they’re made from. Every time I get served a Rose I find myself asking what grapes they’re made from, so this may just be my pet peeve. Plus I’m not attracted to puppies or kittens or a moose on a label though I know other people do select their wines based on a cute label, so I get the desire. Maybe it’s just me?

Click on cans for details –> https://shop.bonnydoonvineyard.com/Shop/Cans

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 15k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Discovering Montemar Again, and Probably Again and Again?

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I remember tasting Montemar wines at past Wine in the Pines events, and that a few friends were in love with their wines, especially their Pinot Noirs. When my #LAWineWriters group planned a trip to Lompoc I looked around to see who else I would like to visit, and remembered that Montemar was there. Besides Pinot they are also known for Rhônes – GSM blends and Syrah – as well as Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Rose, Viognier, Grappa and more.

When I met up with owner Caryn Arrowood she gave me their wine list, and whew, there was a lot to choose from. (For a writer, who of course has to spit everything, I limited myself to varietals that I normally appreciate.) Caryn commented that they make “too many” of a lot of varietals. They do indeed, lucky us.

But before we got to tasting Caryn showed me their life-size chalkboard where visitors could write down their goals (sadly Caryn’s husband Steve had his life’s goals written there before he passed away due to cancer), organic garden (Caryn offered that we take anything we like home with us), their sandy beach (yes, you read that right), large paintings of popular musicians one of their club members had done and plenty of well-spaced seating areas. Now, I grew thirsty to taste.

Tasting

The first wine we tasted, Caryn’s favorite and mine now as well, was their 2018 Grenache Blanc with delightful notes of fresh pineapple and fruit cocktail. Next up, a 2014 Sangiovese from Stolpman Vineyard, proved once again how great the Stolpman Vineyards are, and how a great winemaker can do great things with it. It had a beautiful nose filled with light red fruit, spice and brambles. Another wine with great fruit and spice, as well as mushrooms and violets, was the 2014 Grenache, I was now three for three in finding favorites at Montemar.

A dark, earthy, spicy wine with great balance, their 2014 GSM was the ticket. This rendition had 50% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 25% Mourvedre. A 2013 Syrah, Thompson Vineyard, had  me at a “hello blueberry” youthful taste for a 2013, that also had a bright mint and some red earth notes to it.

Next up was their 2012 Syrah EBA (Extended Barrel Aged) from the Watchhill Vineyard. This wine has 12 more months in barrel, for a total of 30 months, before bottling. Caryn commented that this was “a good vineyard” for them. I got lots of red jammy fruit, pepper, crushed leaves, with a long tannic finish. Another favorite that lingered in my mind for a long time after tasting. Our final wine was a 2015 Petite Verdot from Happy Canyon. It was dark, dusty, with lots of great fruit and the most perfumed bouquet. 

Note: Though Steve had been the winemaker for all of the wines we tasted, we learned that their son Kyle Arrowood, who Caryn said had been “a garage winemaker since he was a kid”, had taken up the helm. I look forward to returning and tasting Kyle’s vintages. The Arrowoods have long-time contracts with many vineyards where they can “control the fruit”, and I expect that to continue for many years to come.

Montemar Wines

1501 E. Chestnut Ct., STE E. Lompoc.

805-735-5000

https://www.montemarwinery.com/

https://www.facebook.com/Montemarwines/

https://www.montemarwinery.com/reopening.html

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Two Bottle Post: Entourage by Two Papas 2019 Grenache Blanc and 2018 Syrah

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Honestly can’t remember when I first met winemaker Rick Pratt, it could’ve been at Sunset in the Vineyard, benefitting the work of our Assistance League, or one of many events he has poured wine at over the years. Rick has donated wines to many non-profits and some that I’ve been involved with, besides Sunset in the Vineyard, include Garagiste Festival, Wine on the Roof and most recently he was extremely generous with Circle of Hope for Vine 2 Wine, To Go.

After this recent Vine 2 Wine event Rick sent me home with two of his latest wines. I waited less than a week after the event to wrap my palate around these two:

2019 Grenache Blanc

Thompson Vineyard, Santa Barbara County, 12.9% alcohol

Picked September 2019, in stainless six months.

Pratt said this wine drinks more like a Sauvignon Blanc and I could definitely see that. I got aromas of lemon and lime peel, white peach, Mandarin orange and a slight powdery creaminess. In the mouth I got that same bursting citrus fruit, homemade lemonade, fresh green apple, a medium acidity that carried over to a medium finish. We enjoyed this wine before dinner, and due to the Sauv Blanc qualities – the bright citrus and mild acidity – it was a great aperitif.

2018 Syrah

Thompson Vineyard, Alisos Canyon, Santa Barbara County

14.2% alcohol

Rick had advised me to decant the wine for two hours before drinking, and I might’ve gone closer to three. From the nose there was sweet black cherry, plums, blueberry, milk chocolate, white pepper, earth, dried leaves and caramel while the taste delivered a lovely balance of spice, dark fruit, tannin and another medium finish. I did my tasting notes just after I cleansed my palate with a sample of our Bolognese spaghetti sauce simmering on the stove. We had the wine just before sitting down to dinner, with dinner and after dinner.

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We would definitely like to have both of these wines again. Rick gets great fruit and makes great wine with it. My biggest takeaway is that these wines worked well with and without food, making them accessible to all palates whenever the mood strikes.

I also checked in with Rick during the tasting, and asked him to share his thoughts on the Thompson Vineyard, which he happily supplied, as well as more info on his new Syrah:

Thompson Vineyard sits deep within Alisos Cyn. in northern Santa Barbara County. The canyon runs West to East allowing cool ocean air to flow in over the Solomon Hills, keeping the daytime temperatures mild. As a result, hang times on the fruit are 2-4 weeks longer than your normal SB Rhône Vineyard, fruit is picked no earlier than mid October and often going as long as November 1st.

This long hang time, when handled properly, results in wines with big fruit, great balance and neutral acidity. Thompson, along with their neighbor, Sine Qua Non, are among the most sought after grapes in the state. Thompson produces Grenache Blanc, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah and their only non-Rhône, Chardonnay. With the heavy rains this year, the soils received a good cleansing and the 2020 harvest looks again to be a great one. According to Vineyard manager, Jason Grupp, the crop is looking outstanding!

A little info on the Syrah. The Syrah vines were originally smuggled into the country in 1974 from the Hermitage region of France. In 1988 David Thompson purchased cuttings from the original ‘smuggler’. He took those cuttings and just shoved them into the ground. A very risky move, leaving the cuttings susceptible to disease and insects. Luckily the cuttings survived. As a result of this process you get the purest form of expression from the Estrella clone of Syrah.

Meet The Winemaker (From website)

Rick and Teresa 

Rick’s interest in wine-making began in the 70’s but it wasn’t until over twelve years ago that his hands-on education began.  Thanks to a high-school classmate who was making wine in his garage, a life-long dream would one day be realized. His journey to becoming a garagiste taught him the skills he would one day need to be able to create wines for all to enjoy.

“Along the road I have had the good fortune to experience mentoring from two of the best. I am most grateful to Wes Hagen and Greg Brewer for their support and insight. The fact that our wines have been so well received is due in large part to their guidance.”

Today we are finally able to share our wines with you.  A lot of love went into crafting each one and in creating each label. May you enjoy them as much as we did making them!

https://twopapaswines.com

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.