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Gregory Alonzo: Single Malt Vodka? Surely You Jest

February 28, 2013 by evebushman

A few years ago, I was enjoying some vodka with my best friend John Sherer. I was going on and on about the virtues of Polish rye vodka, when John shocked me with a question.

“Dude, have you ever tried single malt vodka?” he queried.

John’s question was enough to stagger a billy goat. “Single malt vodka?” I stammered and shook my head in dismay. “Surely you jest.”

“I’m not joking,” he playfully punched me in the arm. “I read an article that stated the best vodka in the world was from Scotland and it was single malt.”

“Scottish vodka, now I was sure that I had been kicked in the stomach.”

My next thought was a scene right out of the James Bond film, ‘You Only Live Twice.’ Once 007 had dispatched one of the henchman, who was an enormous Sumo wrestler, Bond reaches for a bottle of vodka and drank deeply.

“Siamese vodka,” Bond grimaced as he shockingly read the label. Vodka aficionados worldwide erupted euphorically as Sean Connery so convincingly shared his disdain at the thought of a vodka distilled in Thailand.

Today I am once again joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. We are at my flat in Kyiv and I am ready to introduce Elena to some premium single malt vodkas.

“Grisha,” I am very excited that you invited me for this tasting,” Elaina’s eyes sparkled with anticipation. “The notion of a single malt vodka intrigues me.”

What exactly is single malt and why is this considered a bit strange to most vodka connoisseurs? In a nut shell, single malt is essentially whiskey unblended with any other malt. Malt is barley or any other grain that has been steeped, germinated, and dried. In the United Kingdom, the term “single malt” is typically used when referring to scotch whiskey. Single malt must be made solely from malted barley, distilled in a pot still, and aged for a minimum of three years. In the States, however, single malt denotes rye whiskey as opposed to barley.

“So what is meant by single malt vodka?” Elena queried.

“Most often, single malt vodka is 100% malted barley as the only ingredient.”

“Can it be aged?” Elena seemed a bit puzzled.

Yes, of course.”

“Knowing your penchant for 10 and 25 year old rye vodka from Poland,” Elena’s eyes sparkled into a small smile. “Today should prove to be most interesting.”

“Ah, Starka, my favorite of all vodkas,” I nodded in fond reflection. “But that is for another time and another tasting.”

Our first selection hails from Canada. Still Waters is handcrafted in small batches. The distiller is quite proud that only the finest two-row malted barley, purified water, and yeast is used in the making of this triple-distilled vodka. Still Waters also boasts that a small custom-made pot still is used to craft a smooth and clean spirit. Lastly, just prior to bottling, Still Waters is chill-filtered in order to attain pristine and crystal clarity.

“On the nose, I detected hints of malt,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “There is an interesting assortment of fruits.”

“It is much more scented than most vodkas,” I paused as I savored the vodka. “Perhaps a bit too scented.”

On the palate, we both found Still Waters to be a bit too sweet and the distinct flavor of malt and spice a trifle overpowering on this medium to full body vodka. The finish, though buttery and a bit sweet, was exceptionally smooth and with no burn. Overall, an interesting artisan vodka at 40% alcohol and a price tag of $35.

Our next selection hails from England. Sipsmith is another handcrafted small batch vodka produced entirely from malted barley. The distillers at Sipsmith affectionately boast about the most important member of their team is Prudence. Crafted in Germany, Prudence is the only copper still of its kind. It is believed that through the use of copper, the result will be a smooth and pure vodka with no need for filtration.

“I do not understand the nose on our Sipsmith,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “There is a subtle aroma of juniper with hints of spice and candied ginger.”

“I also have reservations on the nose of this vodka,” I nodded in agreement. “The floral juniper quality is more expressive of gin rather than vodka.”

We also found our Sipsmith to be extraordinarily soft, perhaps to a fault. The finish is lingering and dry with just a hint of pepper coming through. This artisan vodka has an alcohol content of 40% and a price tag of $40.

Our next selection hails from Scotland via New York. Valt is the brain child of two Scots who met in Manhattan. They proudly make the claim that their vodka is crafted solely by Scottish distillers, using only Scottish malted barley, and Scottish mountain water. So what emerges? According to the Scots, a refined and pure vodka with no equal.

The distillers at Valt also boast a quintuple micro-distillation technique in copper stills, which is uniquely their own.”

“Grisha,” Elena broke in. “What is quintuple?”

“Five times …”

She cut me off. “Stop showing off and let’s sample some Valt.”

“Budimo,” I toasted her as I poured our vodka.

“On the nose,” Elena began. “I found Valt creamy and strangely sweet.”

“I would liken the aroma to that of boiling fruit.”

We both agreed that on the palate there was the distinct flavor of barley with hints of vanilla and spice. The finish was of melting butter and toffee-like.
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Valt is uniquely Scottish and a whiskey drinker’s vodka. The alcohol content is 40% with a price tag of $45.

Our last selection came as a bit of a surprise. It is from the Italian company, Franciacorta, and It is called Single Vodka Single Malt 40. The literature reads like an advertisement for whiskey. They are proud to make the claim of using rare barley grain and a pot still process. Allow me liberty of paraphrasing the quote: “Single lives up to the tradition of great single malt whiskies with its bold character, satisfying the most demanding, inaugurating a new way of drinking and presenting vodka.”

Both Elena and I found Single Malt 40 floral on the nose. The mouth-feel was clean, crisp, light in character, and fishing with just a hint of delicate sweetness. An interesting attempt at a barley vodka from Franciacorta. The company is known primarily for its grappas and liqueurs.
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This single malt entry is 40% alcohol and priced at $60.

Both Elena and I found single malt vodkas to be distinctly barley like in character, exceptionally smooth, and somewhat sweet. Perhaps it would be more appropriate to refer to single malt vodka as “white whiskey.”

We did put our single malts to the test with a few cocktails. Elena preferred Cosmopolitans with Valt and I found Sipsmith to make an interesting Bloody Mary, but that my friends is another story …

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: cocktail, distiller, finish, gin, rye, single malt, sommelier, spice, vodka, whiskey

The Pinot Report: 91 Points for my friend Russ Briley’s Nugucciet Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir!

February 6, 2013 by evebushman

Russ Briley, a winemaker that I’ve enjoyed getting to know better over monthly lunches and wine events, recently told me that his 2010 Nuggucciet Cellars Pinot Noir – of which he has only 7 cases left of as I pen this intro – recently garnered a 91-point rating from The Pinot Report.  (My own tasting of this outstanding wine can be read here.)  So I asked Russ to send me the information so that I could share it with readers.  To get your own taste just go straight over to his website before it’s gone http://www.nugguccietcellars.com/ and check out the 2009, it got a 90!

 

 

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: aroma, flavor, Oak, Pinot Noir, spice, tasting, wine event

Gregory Alonzo: Moldovan Wines … So where is Moldova?

November 29, 2012 by evebushman

Peering out from the Terrace Bar in Chisnau’s luxurious Savoy Hotel, I have a wonderful view of the capital’s city center. Considering that Moldova is one of the poorest countries in Europe; the Savoy is a welcome surprise of total elegance and a  stylishness that one would not expect to find in the former Soviet Republic.

If you are not quite sure where exactly is Moldova, rest assured that you are not alone. Secreted between Romania and Ukraine, and close to the Black Sea, Moldova’s recent history has been quite tumultuous. At one time, Moldova was part of Romania. The people are not Slavs, but Romanian, with a large Turkish presence. Some of Moldova’s territory includes about 70% of Bessarabia, with the remaining 30% now controlled by Ukraine. However, let’s not forget that on Moldova’s eastern border, along the Dniester River, lies the breakaway territory of Transnistria.

For those of you who are now totally lost and have no clue as to where I am, rest assured that I am somewhere in Eastern Europe, in a country with a 4,000 year history of winemaking. I am also  comfortably enjoying a glass of wine with my friend and fellow sommelier, Valeria Dadiani.

“Would you stop teasing our readers,” Valeria paused awaiting my full attention. “I have selected some lovely wines for our enjoyment.”

Our table had also been impeccably set with an assortment of nuts, cheeses, and fresh fruits. I was also excited to taste the wines Valeria had selected for us. I am relatively new to the wines of Moldova, but over the past 3 years, we have done quite a bit of business together.

“Gregory, how is it you first came to Moldova to learn about our wines?” She queried.

“I was in Ukraine at a posh restaurant in Kyiv. Going over the wine list, I noticed that one of the wines was a Rkatsiteli from Moldova, not Georgia,” I paused in reflection. “I then  called for the sommelier to inquire as to whether the difference was merely geographical.”

“And what did you discover?” Valeria was quick to ask.

“Same grape varietal,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “However, a different way of making wine which resulted altogether, in a completely different style of wine.”

Our first wine was a Cricova Vin de Colectie Gratiesti 1990.

This is an interesting sweet wine made from 100% Rkatsiteli grapes and aged in French oak for 5 years. Once the wine has been bottled it is sealed under cork and a wax capsule. Our wine had a burnished coppery hue, along with a rich orange-gold, and  shimmering notes of red. The nose clearly declares an oxidative style, with woody baked fruit, and an earthy character that dominates. There are also aromas of nuts and raisins. On the palate, it begins with a rich fleshy style before it reveals flavors of nutty fruit. The finish is distinctly characteristic of this style of wine and the region. For the novice to the wines of Moldova, the oxidized style may be a bit too dominant.

"The fountains are just decorations in the garden of the Milestii Mici Estate. Underneath is the real treat, the world's largest wine cellar .... )))"

“I whole-heartedly agree,” Valeria flashed me a quick smile. “What I find more interesting is that even though you are not overly fond of sweet wines, you do appreciate this favorite wine of Moldova.”

“Noroc,” I toasted Valeria. “I think it is more that I understand the viticultural history throughout this part of the world,” I gave her an enthusiastic grin. “I find the wines and winemaking techniques throughout Eastern Europe to be the among the most interesting.”

“Gregory, I think you should also share with our readers some information about the Cricova wine region.”

The grandeur of Moldova’s wine heritage can best be found in Cricova. The region is located just north of the capital city, Chisinau. Perhaps the most famous landmark, and originally what took me to this fabled area were the cellars of the Milestii Mici Estate. Sitting atop a labyrinth of cellars, the estate stores more than 2 million bottles of locally produced wines in some 155 miles of corridors. Milestrii can proudly boast that it is the world’s largest wine cellar.

Our next wine was a Vinia Cotnari Grasa de Cotnari 1995

This is an excellent semi-sweet white wine. It is partly barrique aged with an alcohol content of about 12%. In color, our Cotnari was a golden yellow, and most soothing to the eye.  On the nose, there is the distinct bouquet of apricot followed by an almost tranquil scent of wild flowers. On the palate, there is a walnut and almond quality that I enjoyed immensely. This is a wine to be enjoyed after a fine meal.

“I especially enjoy Cotnari with cake,” Valeria’s face broadened into a wide beaming smile. “I also prefer to serve this wine at about 50 degrees Fahrenheit.”

Grasa de Cotnari can boast a long and proud history in Moldova. Since the rule of Prince Stephen the Great, Grasa de Cotnari has been producing quality wines for over  600 years. Like so many wines produced throughout this part of Europe, Grasa de Cotnari is affected by Botrytis Cinerea (Noble Rot). Typically the grapes are picked once they begin to shrivel. Though this grape varietal originated in Romania’s Transylvania region, Grasa de Cotnari is only cultivated in Moldova.

Our last wine was a Senator Babeasca Neagra 2006

This wine was made of 100% Babeasca Neagra grapes with an alcohol content of about 13%. It is a lovely light red in color. The name Babeasca Neagra is quite fitting. The translation is “grandmother’s grape.” On the nose, our Babeasca displayed notes of black olives, plums, raspberries, and mulberries. I also noticed the slightest hint of graphite. On the palate, our Babeasca was well-balanced fruit and tannins. I particularly enjoyed the delicious suggestions of spice and chocolate. This wine has good length and a tangy, fruit-filled finish that would please anyone’s grandmother.

Valeria broke out into almost uncontrollable laughter. “You know Gregory, my grandmother was particularly fond of Barbeasca Neagra wine.”

Valeria was quick to add that our Senator Babeasca Neagra 2006 hails from the Insuratel region which lies in close proximity to the Black Sea. She also shared that the region’s sandy soil accounted for wines of high acidity. This style of wine is quite popular in Moldova because it pairs nicely with most foods and is made for current consumption. However, Valeria also noted that the very highest quality Babeasca Neagra are made in the Nicoresti District and quite suitable for aging.

“Gregory,” Valeria’s eyes crinkled into a smile. “I have a lovely surprise that I know you will enjoy.”

“Surprise me,” I exclaimed in anticipation.

“We will now proceed to a enchanting cafe that is owned by my friend,” she playfully smacked her lips. “They serve Placinte cu branza (cheese pies) and Isobala.”

“Isobala?” I queried.

“It is a wine made from the grapes on the farm of Tamara’s grandmother.”

“But that my friends, is another story … “

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: aroma, cheese, cork, finish, French oak, grapes, palate, restaurant, sommelier, spice, sweet, tannins, Wine tasting, winemaking

Rusty Sly Shares: 2004 Turley Pesenti Winery Block Tasting

August 20, 2012 by evebushman

As we explore the world of wines we find that as we answer one question others surface.  As an aerospace engineer I am always striving to know every little detail why things are the way they are. Then add a passion,  such as wine,  to this equation and you have a lifetime study.  While many questions may never be answered  the challenge is still an adrenalin rush.One such question is terroir influences on wines.  This effect ranges from country to country, within regions and even within a single vineyard.  Key items that cause differences in wines include location, soil, climate, temperature, etc.   It is rather easy to see differences on a macro scale such as those of an old world wine and a new world wine.  For example,  a French Burgundy (pinot noir) from Gevrey-Chambertin in France and Belle Glois (pinot noir) from California.  Now with the Burgundy you will get a soft, elegant, multi layered wine that has a complex structure, however, with the Belle Glois you get a distinct slap in the face from copious amounts of cherries.  It is these types of differences that establish wine drinkers likes and dislikes when it comes to wine styles.

Let’s look at the other extreme where all of the grapes are from one single vineyard.  The challenge is to analyze a single grape varietal from one vineyard where wines were picked from different sections of the vineyard called “blocks”.  Blocks can differ in the amount of sun, temperature, humidity, available water, nutrient content of the soil, etc.  So what kind of expectations would you expect from such a tasting?  Are these blocks truly different terroirs or is the juice from each block of a vineyard indistinguishable?  Luckily,  a situation provided the perfect opportunity to maybe satisfy this question.

I was fortunate to have had some varied and talented palates over for dinner one night.  Talking about this topic amongst the group I mentioned that I had a case of wine from six different blocks of a single vineyard that could maybe provide some answers.  The challenge was set and the decision made to open a six bottle case of 2004 Turley Pesenti Zinfandel that I had in my cellar and see if there were differences within a single vineyard by the group.  To round out this taste test, I also added a 2010 Pesenti Vineyard Zinfandel made from the grapes of the entire vineyard.

The tasting panel consisted of George and Jennifer Skorka; Chuck and Heidi Wiedeman; Rich and Mindy Bezjian; and of course author and wife (Tracy).  Below are the description of the different Blocks provided by Turley with the case of wine:

1) Bastard Block – North facing section of the vineyard that earned its nickname due to its 45 degree slope.  The afternoons in this block are shady and lush producing more mulch for richer soil.  This block is the first to ripen.

2) North Blocks – These blocks also face north having moist soil and morning sun exposure.

3) Bundah Block – Below the two previous blocks, this section ripens 10 – 20 days later making the PH very balanced.  Being at the bottom of the hill means that the soil is very deep (6 – 10 feet) resulting in a low acid wine.

4) West bowl – The crater at the top of the ridge gets both east and west exposure and contains some Carignane grape varietal.

5) Outhouse Block – One of the last blocks to be picked, this section receives no morning sun due to its westerly slope. The resulting wine is PH balanced

6) Block Stable Block – At the lowest elevation on the vineyard, this block is the coolest of the vineyard.  It is the last to be picked and the last to be pruned.  It’s thick voluptuous body adds richness to the final blend.

As you can see from Turley’s details on the different Blocks, there is a large variations of terroirs within this single vineyard.  Now the big test to see if the different Blocks produce different characteristics from the same vine stock and grape.  The comments below are by couple.

1) Bastard Block

George & Jennifer: Great finesse and poetic pure tobacco leaf infused nose. The dream quickly becomes less stunning reality with stewed fruit on the palate and short length. The nose with a few minutes in the glass disappears into just existence.

Chuck & Heidi: The BASTARD block immediately revealed a great earthy nose but did not fulfill the promise on the taste.  The fruit and earthiness dropped off quickly. Obviously this wine needed to be blended.

Rich & Mindy: Aroma of dark fruit, slight hint of plum.  Nice finish, not too long, more of a mid palate.  I got a little alcohol blowback on this one.  A hint of spice and more red fruit, than dark.

2) North Block

George & Jennifer: Between the first and third wine she was like the second row of dancers on the stage. It was less impressive on the nose but kept itself balanced and fair on the palate. So this block is the fair blending material for the more eccentric brothers and sisters.

Chuck & Heidi: The NORTH Block showed more spiciness and it was easy to see what this component could bring to a blend.

Rich & Mindy: Very similar to #1, however, no hint of plum.  Finish was a bit longer, more mouth feel.  No alcohol blowback.  Less spice (as I recall).

3) Bundah Block

George & Jennifer: The reason why Turley is still known for making quality zinfandel.  Deep plum and cranberry raspberry notes, flawless nose, sweet good textured body and no heat from alcohol.  Medium + length on the finish. It’s oak influence is integrated.  This is a very nice wine indeed.

Chuck & Heidi: The BUNDAH block was a real treat.  Excellent nose that did not disappoint with excellent balance and a long finish.  We all agreed this wine could stand on its own.

Rich & Mindy: The real superstar in my opinion.  Outstanding balance, exceptional finish, and it really filled my entire mouth.  Lots of red fruit, and some earthiness.

4) West Bowl

George & Jennifer: The red flag for TCA believed to be in this wine quickly went away but the disjointed existence remained. The wine had no direction or clear agenda. It’s jam like note were wandering asking you what to do.

Chuck & Heidi: The WEST BOWL BLOCK was a disappointment as the flavors seemed off to most of us.  The consensus was that carignane, that is also in this block and harvested with the zinfandel, contributed to the not so pleasing taste.

Rich & Mindy: Wondering if there was something wrong with this one.  I got a mustiness on the nose, and tasted it also.

5) Outhouse Block

George & Jennifer: The perfect blending material. The purple cave, pepper spice seaweed aromatics with red stone mid palate richness were impressive.

Chuck & Heidi: The OUTHOUSE block was also a pleasant wine with excellent acidity overall balance.  An interesting note here is that the 4 women in our group found this one the most pleasing block, where the 4 men preferred the BUNDAH block.

Rich & Mindy: Almost as good as 3.  Very similar, but a little less structured.

6) Stable Block

George & Jennifer: The California dream Zinfandel for many. Hollywood colors flawlessly entertain the voluptuous body loving crowd. No errors no faults.  Marilyn Monroe imitation act with extra pounds on the body.

Chuck & Heidi: The final component was the STABLE block which presented as big and jammy.  This is the type of zin that many people like to drink as is, but for us, we are glad it is only a component of the fabulous blends.

Rich & Mindy: No comments

7) 2010 Turley Pesenti

Chuck & Heidi: Finally, tasting the 2010 Turley  Pesenti  Vineyard bottling makes you appreciate the artistry that a winemaker can achieve in the blending.  I only wish we could know the block blending proportions that were used for the 2004 bottling.

This tasting was not only educational but surprising to many of us.  As you can see from the notes, there are not subtle, but large differences even within a single given vineyard.  The next question is how the vintner deals with this.  Do they pick and press all of the grapes together or do they keep blocks separate and blend them to acquire the taste profile they wish for?  Justin Isoceles Reserves are made by blending many different cabs from around the Paso area to create the basis for their Meritage.  The Isoceles tour is well worth taking if you have not gone on it but make sure you call for reservations.  If you want to see and discover what this group found you must go.

In conclusion I think Chuck summed it up when he said, ” Anyone who is a fan of California Zinfandels knows the range of character that this grape can achieve in the many regions where it is grown. From the big, jammy-ripe zins of Amadore to the juicy, bright fruit zins of Sonoma or the spicy zins of the Russian River Valley.  So it was a very special experience to taste a vintage of zinfandel, block by block from an exceptional vineyard produced by an exceptional winery. Characteristics of terroir that can be found on a large scale can also be found within a single vineyard.”

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Filed Under: Eve Bushman Tagged With: aroma, burgundy, California, France, fruit, grapes, length, palate, Pinot Noir, plum, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, spice, taste, terroir, varietal, vineyard, wine education, Wine tasting, Zinfandel

Gregory Alonzo: The Georgian Feast: Supra, the Tamada, and Sweet Wines (Photos below story)

August 16, 2012 by evebushman

What is a supra? This is the Georgian word for a “feast.” Food and drink are especially important to the cultures of the Caucasus. The supra is comprised of a vast array dishes oftentimes representing the various regions throughout the country. Let’s not forget the wine. The supra is also accompanied by large amounts of wine and a dinner can last for several hours.

During a Georgian supra, the role of the “tamada or toastmaster,” is an important and honored tradition. Since the dinner is more of an event rather than a meal, the tamada is expected to keep the festivities moving along and ensure that the wine keeps flowing. Since the tamada is in essence an entertainer, it is not unusual for our toastmaster to sing songs or recite poetry, and of course, make the obligatory toasts.

Since it is my last day in Tbilisi, Medea’s family have honored me with a supra. Medea’s mother, Dedisimedi Khetsuriani is a chef par excellence. Her specialty is Kakhetian cuisine which which is quite befitting as my favorite Georgian wines are from the Kakheti region.

Georgian cuisine is somewhat Mediterranean and Middle Eastern in flavor. Ground walnuts and cooking with walnut nut oil is what gives Georgian dishes their distinct and savory flavor. Also characteristic of Georgian cuisine is the spice mixture of khmeli-sumeli which combines garlic, chilies, pepper, and coriander. What, no saffron to such a rich blend? Georgian chefs prefer to substitute saffron with dried marigold petals. Meat dishes are not only the most popular, they are typically served with fresh parsley, dill, coriander and scallions.

Since boyhood, I have been reading the adventures of Marco Polo. The quest for spices has always intrigued me. Men willing to travel thousands of miles through uncharted lands to find the “end of the rainbow.” Georgian cuisine is completely indicative of what lies at the other end.

At length, dinner was served. To my delight there was batsurma, grilled lamb, and chikhirtmi, a lemony chicken soup. An assortment of dolmas, tomatoes, eggplant, and grape leaves stuffed with beef. A particular favorite, karcho, a rich spicy rice often flavored with lamb broth. A second rice dish, shilaplavi is also served with potatoes. Kinkali pork dumplings and of course, fresh baked lavash bread.

“Medea, will your Uncle Shalva be joining us for the supra?” I queried.

“Who knows, he is often so busy with work.”

Shalva Khetsuriani is the head of the Georgian Sommelier Association. I’m not actually sure if he is a blood relation or a friend of Medea’s father, Khevitso, whom he brought into his family as the Khetsuriani clan have opened their hearts to me. I have known Medea’s father since my first trip to Georgia. He has always been instrumental in helping me with the necessary documents for export such as, bills of lading, and letters of credit. In fact, it was Khevitso who first introduced me to Medea.

As the supra progressed, we shared several bottles of wine, however, I would like to focus on three semi-sweet selections. Kindzmarauli, Khvanchkara, and Ojaleshi.

Regarded as one of Georgia’s premier appellations, the wines from Kindzmarauli are indeed a national treasure.  Our Telavi 2007 Kindzmarauli is vinified from saperavi grapes and have a little natural residual sweetness. This gives the wine an appealing and rounded texture. Inferior Kindzmarauli can sometimes be overly sweet and feel sticky on the palate. Our selection is a deep inky purple red with notes of crushed blackberries, damson jam, and spice on the nose. To taste, there are vivid berry fruit flavors that are gently sweet with supple tannins. This wine pairs best with sweet cakes, farmhouse cheeses, and walnuts.

“Khevitso, what is it about Kindzmarauli that you love?” I queried.

A smiled filled his face. “I love saperavi, it is our national grape. Kindzmarauli displays  the versatility of this grape.” He then popped a walnut into his mouth. “It also goes well with walnuts.”

The second of our semi-sweet wines is a 2005 Khvanchara from Tbilvino. It is a blend of two local specialities, Alexandrouli and Mujuheretuli. This wine comes from the picturesque slopes of the Cacusus Mountains of northern Georgia.

Khvanchara is a deep purple in color and our wine is no exception. There are aromas of smokiness and wild strawberries that are quite alluring. On the palate there is a subtle blend of dried fruit, pomegranate, and a hint of caramel. There is plenty of lively acidity to keep this wine fresh and balanced. Try it chilled at about 50 degrees Fahrenheit as an aperitif, or with chocolates and nuts. On a different note. It is well-known that Khavanchkara was a particular favorite of Joseph Stalin.

“Grigol,” Reza, Medea’s brother, called for my attention. “Did you know Stalin was a Georgian? his real name was …

“His name was Ioseb Jugashvili,” Medea’s grandfather, Anzori, broke in. “The name Stalin mean, ‘man of steel.’ I spit on his grave!” He said with complete scorn and disdain. “Pour the next wine.”

Medea selected a 2005 Ojaleshi from Teliani. This is an interesting and often over-looked wine by Western palates. Ojaleshi is an intriguingly pleasant wine from grapes of the same name. It is dark ruby red in color with a delicate herbaceous bouquet and hints of cherry and raspberry. It is well-balanced between fresh acidity and natural sweetness.

“It can be served as an aperitif or with any desert,” Medea was quick to add. “I prefer Ojaleshi chilled at somewhere between 46-54 degrees Fahrenheit.”

One of the things I like most about Georgian semi-sweet wines is their versatility. These wines pair nicely with a wide array of foods. In Russia, Georgian semi-sweet wines are often paired with huge platters of red meat. Russians love to quaff down a seemingly endless stream of wine during a barbecue. Another point I will make about these wines is they can be served as an aperitif or with any desert.
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They range in alcohol content from 11-12 per cent and are quite mild. Room temperature or slightly chilled, it makes no difference, Kindzmarauli, Khvanchara, and Ojaleshi are simply a delight on anyone’s palate …

As my plane began its ascent, I drifted languidly into thought of a time long since gone by. A time of heroes, magic, and enchantresses. Just before dozing off my thoughts settled on the Golden Fleece, Jason, and his marriage to Princess Medea of Colchis … But that my friends is another story …

Filed Under: Guests Tagged With: cheese, chef, food pairing, Republic of Georgia, Saperavi, sommelier, spice, sweet, wine dinner, wine pairing

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