Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: Caliza Winery

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When we decided it was time to visit wine country again, selecting the region was pretty easy. Paso Robles has long been a favorite of ours, going back to the 1980s[!]. Deciding who to visit was a little tougher – there are a lot of people who we consider friends in Paso and many of the wineries are on our “favorites” list. In addition, there are many new wineries that deserve attention.

One thing that was certain was that we needed to visit Carl Bowker at Caliza Winery. The one and only time that we did visit Caliza must have been soon after they opened the tasting room in 2008 – Pam and Carl Bowker had started making wine commercially with the 2006 vintage, but didn’t make their first wines available until late 2008. [We had actually tried to plan a visit in 2018 but couldn’t coordinate schedules.] Since that one time, we had relied on tasting Carl’s efforts at various events, such as Rhone Rangers and the Garagiste Festivals and they were always outstanding. But with no events happening in the last year and a half, visiting became a must.

Upon our arrival at the winery at the end of Anderson Road in the Willow Creek District AVA, Carl gave us a 4-wheel tour of the hillside vineyard adjacent to the tasting room. Carl explained that while the Caliza property is 60 acres, only 28 of those acres are planted. The expected Rhone varieties are there [Syrah, Grenache, Roussanne, Viognier, Mourvedre / Mataro], along with some Primitivo, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo and Tannat. Limestone and slate dominate the soil in this area [Caliza means “limestone” in Spanish]. The qualities of the soil and the climate of the Templeton Gap are what make this AVA so unique and enables Caliza and neighbors such as L’Aventure and Booker to make such great wines, as do other wineries that source fruit from the area.

And great wines they are. Sitting outside with Carl and tasting through the lineup reminded us of how much we enjoy his wines:

2020 “Pink” Rosé – One of the more complex rosés we’ve had, with a rich, strong finish and notes of white peach; a very bright blend of Grenache and Mourvedre.

2019 Viognier – This delicious 100% Viognier was concrete egg fermented. We noted ripe melon fruit with a dry, medium finish, and a full mouthfeel.

2019 Kissin Cousins – the 2020 vintage is already sold out but fortunately Carl has some of the 2019 left of this blend (48% Viognier, 30% Grenache Blanc, 22% Roussanne) that is always one of our favorites. Fermented in a combination of neutral and new oak and stainless steel (depending on the varietal) this wine had a solid mid- palate, clean stone fruit, and white flowers on the nose.

2019 Sidekick – another tasty white blend, this one 80% Roussanne and 20% Viognier. Barrel aged with a rich golden color, and notes of fresh straw and chalk, this is a serious food wine.

2018 Azimuth –the first of four outstanding reds that we tasted, this one is a blend of 50% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Huge fruit, notes of cherry, complex but balanced.

2017 Cohort – 58% Petite Sirah, 28% Syrah, 14% Mourvedre. This one was held back a year so the Petite could integrate, which it certainly did in this superb inky blend.

2018 Syrah – no nickname needed for this delicious 100% Syrah. It was fresh, bright, big and rich.

2018 Companion – the only wine that contains some non-estate fruit, this blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Syrah created a terrific symbiotic pairing.

The accompanying cheese board from Paso favorite Vivant Fine Cheese with pairings selected specifically for the wines tasted just added to the experience, as did the great vineyard view from the patio.

As we were leaving, Carl mentioned that he had another important writer stopping in after us…from The Wine Advocate. Now that is impressive, but equally so is how Carl considered us to be important too. It goes to show you that he and the rest of the Caliza staff treats everyone with the same importance no matter who you are.

We Perlises don’t give number ratings, but we thought we’d share these with you from hugely respected critic, Jeb Dunnuck [as per the Caliza website]:

2018 Azimuth            95 points

2018 Companion      95 points

2018 Syrah               95 points

2017 Cohort              94 points

In your visits to Paso Robles wine country, you might be tempted to not go all the way to the end of Anderson Road. We really think you should because, if you don’t, you’ll be missing out on some great wines and wonderful down-to-earth people.

Caliza Winery

www.calizawinery.com

2570 Anderson Road
Paso Robles, CA 93446

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

One Bottle Post: Cru Beaujolais – du Moulin-a-Vent

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Been a long time since I’ve had a Gamay wine from Beaujolais, France. Not to be confused with Nouveau Beaujolais, its younger sister that is presented every November fresh from bottling, this particular Gamay had some aging (see the tech notes below). I knew it would be red fruit on the nose and palate – reminding me a little of a Pinot Noir – and I was interested to see how this one, from Moulin a Vent, turned out.

From the website Beaujolais.com we learn, among other things, “A natural cross between pinot noir and gouais blanc, the gamay noir à jus blanc variety makes it possible to produce wines with multifaceted fruitiness: from ‘cheerful fruitiness’ for Festive Beaujolais wines – and hence ‘Beaujolais Nouveau’ – to “complex fruitiness” for the Exceptional Beaujolais, and including “racy fruitiness” for the Expressive Beaujolais…”

The Tasting

The color was like a bright ripe cherry, inviting. On the nose I got quite of bit of red fruit, mostly strawberry and raspberry. There is also some white pepper, smoke, golden raisins and incense.

The taste brought all those ripe red berries right up front, some spiciness with a lively palate. This would be our first wine of the night, a refreshing starter, and one my Pinot loving friends would also appreciate.

From the Technical Sheets

General info: approximately 13% alcohol, 100% Gamay grapes, approximately 33,000 bottles, bottled 12/5/2019. On the vines we learn that “These terroirs less exposed to the winds, below the historical moulin-à-vent, on its east slope. The maturation is scarcely stopped and the fruit is much better preserved.” 40 year old vines. Harvested by hand, 3 weeks cold pre-fermentation. Aged at least 15 months in 100% stainless steel, no oak aging.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Vintage Eve Circa 5/2018: A Trio of French Rosé Reviewed

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I’m a sucker for Rosé wine, especially when the temperatures go up and the days are longer. It’s almost like an aperitif to have before dinner for us, on the front porch, as we watch our neighbors slowly filter by walking their dogs or walking themselves. So, this week, now that I’ve got you in a relaxed mood I hope, I give you three Rosé wines to virtual sample through me, and then go out and find for yourselves:

Château de Berne Inspiration 2017, $20

12.5% alcohol

70% Grenache Noir, 20% Cinsault, 10% Syrah

Color: Pale rose gold.

Aroma: fruit cocktail, peach, fresh sweet watermelon, pear, a cool stream running through a lush forest.

Flavor: Tingly (medium acid) hit me first, then fresh ripened apple, steely/concrete, much more fruit on the back palate and a finish of lemon-lime.

88 Eve pts.

From Tech Sheet: Château de Berne Inspiration a light, yet fragrant Grenache-dominant wine that will elevate any meal or happy hour with friends. The grapes are sourced from Château de Berne’s 330 acres of vineyards as well as trusted growers with whom the estate has long-term relationships. The warm Mediterranean climate, vineyard altitudes of 820-1,082 feet and limestone and clay soils produce grapes that are concentrated while still retaining fresh, juicy acidity.

After harvest, the Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah grapes undergo cold soak maceration for 2 to 3 hours, to produce the pale pink color for which Provence is world-famous. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for 2 to 3 weeks before bottling.

Château de Berne Emotion 2017, $16

12.5% alcohol

50% Grenache Noir, 25% Cinsault, 25% Syrah

Cork: Synthetic cork that reminded me of a white marshmallow, this was a first for me.

Color: Very pale pink.

Aromas: Bright and aromatic fruit, citrus, lemon tart, cut pineapple, talcum powder.

Flavor: tart peach and pear, lemon, lime, sweet pineapple, mild to medium acidity.

88 Eve pts.

From Tech Sheet:

The grapes are sourced from Château de Berne’s 330 acres of vineyards as well as trusted growers with whom the estate has long-term relationships. The warm Mediterranean climate, vineyard altitudes of 820-1,082 feet and limestone and clay soils produce grapes that are concentrated while still retaining fresh, juicy acidity. After harvest, the Grenache Noir, Cinsault and Syrah grapes undergo cold soak maceration for 2 to 3 hours, to produce the pale pink color for which Provence is world-famous. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for 2 to 3 weeks before bottling.

Ultimate Provence Urban Provence 2017, $23

12.5% alcohol

45% Grenache Noir, 35% Cinsault, 15% Syrah, 5% Rolle

Color: rose gold, Swarovski crystal.

Aroma: peach, pink grapefruit, sweet ripe raspberry, plum, hard candy, cream, talcum powder, wet stream pebbles.

Flavor: fruit forward, strawberries and cream, but of tropical fruit, medium acid,  mildly sweet finish.

90 Eve pts.

From Tech Sheet: Urban Provence is a dry rosé combining Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Rolle into a refreshing dry wine with bright red fruits balanced by spice. The grapes are harvested from Ultimate Provence’s 100-acre estate near the village of
La Garde-Freinet, where the sandstone soils produce concentrated, aromatic fruit. After harvest, the grapes undergo cold soak maceration for 2 to 3 hours, to produce the pale pink color for which Provence is world-famous. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for 2 to 3 weeks before bottling. The gorgeously etched bottle is reflective of the product inside: beauty, craftsmanship, quality and originality.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Gelson’s to Debut Four New Stellar Wine Offerings by Julien Fayard

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ENCINO, Calif./PRNewswire/ — With the Holidays around the corner, Gelson’s is uncorking four new bottlings in its exclusive branded collection of Gelson’s Wines, all produced through its ongoing collaboration with one of their winemakers, Julien Fayard who was named 2016 “Winemaker of the Year” by Wine Spectrum. The four stellar wines will be available at all 27 Gelson’s locations across the Southland.

Photo credit: Jimmy Hayes, Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

“We feel very honored to work with Julien again. He is a renowned wine maker with an outstanding reputation from his early work with Lafite Rothschild and Smith Haut Lafitte in his native France, to the last dozen years earning respect across Napa Valley,” said John Bagan, Chief Merchandising Officer for Gelson’s.   “We are constantly seeking out the best products from the best producers, and are excited that Gelson’s will continue to make superior quality wines from Julien available exclusively to thousands of our wine-loving Customers across Southern California.
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”

The new wines include:

  • Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville 2018

Created exclusively for Gelson’s by Julien Fayard, this splendid single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon boasts classic Bordeaux style.  It is traditionally fermented (temperature-controlled in a stainless-steel tank) and aged for 22 months in new French oak barrels. Dark ruby in color, the wine is full-bodied and complex. Enticing aromas of ripe blueberry and blackberry lead to a robust blackberry palate with hints of cedar and spices balanced by silky tannins.
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The finish is long, smooth, and delicious.

  • Reserve Cabernet Franc Oakville 2018

The grapes in this impressive single-vineyard Cabernet Franc are traditionally fermented (temperature-controlled in a stainless-steel tank) and aged for 22 months in new French oak barrels, yielding a vibrant ruby color and tempting aromas of ripe cherry and spices. In addition to plush flavors of blueberry, blackberry, sweet red cherry, and cedar, the elegantly layered palate offers full body, silky tannins, and satisfying depth.

  • Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Rutherford 2019

The grapes in this Sauvignon Blanc are whole-cluster pressed and aged in stainless-steel barrels, resulting in a wine that’s light blonde in color, boasting creamy texture and an amazing mouthfeel with brisk acidity. Accents of pear and apricot flavors flow into a refreshing, refined finish.

  • Red Cuvée Napa Valley 2018

This delectable Red Cuvée, expertly blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah for a wine of bold yet measured character. The grapes are traditionally fermented (temperature-controlled in a stainless-steel tank) and aged for 22 months in French oak barrels. Pleasing aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry, and subtle flint accompany a richly textured, full-bodied palate with silky tannins. Dark fruit and earthy notes define the exquisite taste.

Gelson’s debuted its first branded collection of fine wines three years ago with four Santa Barbara reds (Pinot Noir, Grenache, Syrah, Sangiovese) and one white (Chardonnay), created exclusively for Gelson’s by local winemaker and Wine Spectator Grand Award winner Doug Margerum.

About Gelson’s

Gelson’s currently operates 27 full-service specialty grocery stores in Southern California. Each Gelson’s Market features the full amenities of a traditional supermarket, with the local flavor of a neighborhood market. Their high standards – for quality, value and freshness; unsurpassed service; and attention to detail – define the ultimate grocery shopping experience. With over 65 years’ experience, Gelson’s in-house experts know Southern California’s lifestyle and are driven to find only the best foods and exclusive values for their customers. Gelson’s is particularly known for flavorful, hand-selected produce, the best and freshest cuts of meat and seafood, and Chef-prepared signature recipes. This experience is rounded out by professionally designed floral arrangements, and a convenient selection of the highest quality grocery items. Find out why Life Tastes Better Here® at https://gelsons.com.

Visiting Wineries We Like: Ampelos and Zotovich!

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Finishing off our trip to Lompoc we had our last two tasting appointments, to Ampelos Cellars and to Zotovich Vineyards.

Due to Covid-19 both wineries are open for outdoor tastings. Just call or email ahead of time as we know that things can change from one day to the next.

Starting with Ampelos we met with Matt, a “cellar rat” at the winery and tasting room staffer. We went through their current lineup of wines to taste, but only after first noting the unique tasting notes done by their marketing director. Instead of the usual aromas and flavors, these tasting notes also called up more memories, or visions, of where each wine could take you. For example, the 2019 Santa Barbara County Viognier was described as, “The click clack of rails, puffs of jasmine glinted steam, the sneaky smile of a Mandarin orange sun. Teak wood bar, juicy pineapple rings, shaved coconut flesh, the sway of palm trees passing quickly by. A new day swaggers through the lounge car with unlimited possibilities while I ride alongside ‘phi’ the ‘golden girl’ of my dreams.” These kind of tasting notes, albeit not for everyone, makes the writer in me want to strive much harder. It’s boring to read, “jasmine, orange, teak, pineapple” alone. Now, moving on and back to the tasting, and my tasting notes, I found the fruit in the Viognier to be fresh with a lovely mouthfeel. A great start to our tasting.

Next was their 2017 “Garcia” Albarino that spent 50% in neutral oak and 50% in stainless steel tanks. It was quite nice, with mild fruit notes. A 2016 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir “Lambda” had both good fruit and balance, and was awarded 90 points by Wine Enthusiast. Next to try was 2015 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir “Rho” barrel select, made for their best 12 barrels and spent six to eight months longer in barrel. It was very yummy, with rich velvety fruit and oak notes. The Rho got 90 points from both Wine & Spirits magazine and Wine Enthusiast.

The next wine, a 2015 Sta. Rita Hills Grenache “Delta”, had lovely layers of red fruit, spice and earth. The 2016 Sta. Rita Hills “Syrache”, a wine I had been told by a wine pal not to miss, is a Syrah Grenache blend. This vintage was 65% Syrah and 35% Grenache. It proved to be my favorite in the tasting. Wine & Spirits gave it 91 points and Wine Enthusiast awarded it 90 points. Our final wine, the 2016 Syrah had lovely peppery notes I won’t soon forget.

When our Contributing Editor Michael Perlis checked over this article he reminded me that he had covered Ampelos after tasting them at Wine in the Pines in 2015. At that time he shared, “A fortunate cancelation of a meeting at the World Trade Center led to Peter Work missing the 9/11 tragedy. Rethinking their lives, he and wife Rebecca plunged full-time into their Ampelos vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills, which they had acquired in 1999. My favorites were the “Syrache” [blend of Syrah and Grenache] as well as the standalone Syrah.”

From Facebook

ampelos has been a family endeavor from the start! Initially “corporate folk”, we enjoyed getting away to the Sta. Rita hills on weekends and dreamt of one day planting our own vineyards and making wines. A cancelled meeting on the morning of September11, 2001 helped us to realize that someday was TODAY! Our son, Don, came out to help get the vineyard underway and soon our dreams became reality. We are driven by a deep love and passion for viticulture. We are very proud to be one of the first wineries to be CERTIFIED sustainable, organic, and biodynamic. As a small boutique winery we produce 3500 cases and are meticulous about being as gentle as possible with all of our farming and winemaking practices. The best part about being winemakers is the opportunity to meet and share our wine with others. Come see us… 

Ampelos Cellars, 312 North 9th St. Lompoc. 805-736-9957.

https://www.facebook.com/ampeloscellars/

https://www.instagram.com/ampeloscellars/

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Now, onto Zotovich! In the blue building, shared with other winery tasting rooms on the corner of Highway 1 and 246, we rediscovered Zotovich Estate Vineyards and Winery with sales rep Jason Carter. We quickly learned that they sell their wine via wine club, as well as in some restaurants and stores. We tasted about 10 wines, will share the notes for some from the current vintage – which should be available on their website.

We began with the 2018 “Zoto” Chardonnay that Jason said had “marginally less oak” than their Estate Chardonnay. I found it slightly acidic, akin to a Sauvignon Blanc, with both tart and buttery notes. Then we tried three more Chards, all very good. We preferred the 2017 Estate Chardonnay for its notes of Meyer lemon, white peach, pear and a hint of strawberry in a delicate balance, for only $28 a bottle. We liked the 2017 Reserve Chardonnay, from the 809 clone, and 50% new French oak, with tropical fruit including pineapple, papaya and a floral nose. The last white we tried was the 2018 Estate Viognier. The wine called up memories of lemon-lime soda, stone fruit, wet stones with a nice low acidity.

Next up came the reds, beginning with the 2017 Estate Pinot Noir. Notes included concentrated fruit – especially crushed raspberries, white pepper and a richer quality in comparison to a 2019 newly released Pinot served just before. The website said this is the 17th vintage of their flagship Pinot. Oher reds we tried that I didn’t find on the website included their 2017 Grenache, 2016 Syrah Grenache Blend and a 2017 Syrah. Of these three I enjoyed the blend the most, but get over to the tasting room soon if you want to taste these wines!

A little research of my own and I found what I had to say about Zotovich in a Henry Wine Group tasting circa 2012, “This was my actual favorite winery of the day and I think it may have been the 10th wine (translates to pretty early in the tasting) I had tried. The three the winemaker brought included an ‘09 Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay that I found refreshing and steely, the ‘09 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir for its traditional cherry and stem flavors without a ton of alcohol or tannin (things I don’t like that some seem to be reaching for in Pinots) and the ‘09 Sta. Rita Hills Syrah that was both soft and then sturdy on the back palate. Want more.”

From Facebook

A small, family-owned and operated winery located on the Central Coast of California, Zotovich Vineyards handcrafts exceptional wine from small, closely monitored lots of grapes. Zotovich Vineyards & Winery proudly produces Estate Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier, and Grenache. Our philosophy is simple: We believe great wine is established in the vineyard. We meticulously farm our estate Zotovich Family Vineyard grapes, and strive to make the best wine possible vintage to vintage.

Zotovich Vineyards, 300 N 12 St, Ste D, 805-736-1600.

http://www.zotovichvineyards.com/

https://www.facebook.com/pg/zotovichvineyards/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Pulchella Releases 2019 Rogue Rose Tonight!

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Locals! Tonight is the night to get your hands on Pulchella’s new Rose before it’s sold out!
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Details from the winemakers:

With a beautiful color of deep rose gold, the nose offers lovely fruit aromas of just ripe strawberry, nectarine skin, effervescent watermelon water, and a touch of citrus zest before notes of hibiscus, orange blossoms, rose petals, and the slightest touch of white pepper on the back end. On the palate entry, right off the bat you get a lovely viscous mouthfeel which quickly widens to an expansive fruit forward mid palate of rich cherry, Gaviota strawberry, white peach flesh, and the return of lovely watermelon character before acid carries you away to a finish of minerality and lingering red fruit. A truly delicious rosé and a perfect pairing for a hot summer day!

$35 bottle, 20% off for club members.

http://pulchellawinery.orderport.net/wines/current-releases

Visit the Tasting Room at 24261 Main Street, Downtown Newhall from 4 to 7 PM Friday, July 10 or 1 to 4 pm Saturday, July 11 to purchase your bottle. (These will also be the tentative hours from now on, until winery tasting rooms can re-open in LA County safely.)

Technical Notes:

Varietal: 52% Syrah, 46% Grenache, 2% Viognier

Vineyard: Briarwood

AVA: Templeton Gap District, Paso Robles

Harvest Date: October 11th, 2019

Fermentation: All 3 varietals crushed together, 24-hour cold soak, then lightly pressed into stainless steel for a low and slow fermentation. No malolactic fermentation.

Aging: 7 months – 100% stainless steel

Production: 50 cases

ABV: 15.1%

Cellar Time: Drink now! We would normally say drink this wine very cold, however, the flavors and aromas become more open for interpretation after the temperature creeps up slightly. Drink this wine at your personal preferred rosé temperature.

Vintage Variation: Let’s talk about the obvious: where’s the Tannat? We had some minor Tannat issues at Bella Collina during the 2019 vintage, and we simply didn’t get enough fruit to support making a rosé on top of our red program. This is the first time since 2016 that our rosé hasn’t been made with 100% Tannat. And you know what… that’s okay, because the 2019 is a damn good wine!
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For 2019, we decided to make a Highs and Lows inspired rosé of Syrah and Grenache. And for good measure we through in a little Viognier to the co-fermentation. All in all, the 2019 is a very comparable wine to our Tannat rosés, but with a little added richness in the fruit department. The color is also a touch different, leaning more to rose gold hue than fire engine red hue. This vintage definitely falls outside the lines of traditional rosés and that’s exactly what we look to do: push the boundaries! No rules!

Travaglini Gattinara – Nebbiolo in Northern Piedmont – at Angelini Osteria

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Recently at Angelini Osteria a group of wine writers were invited to an intimate wine tasting and luncheon hosted by Cinzia Travaglini, owner of Travaglini Winery, and her daughter Alessia Collauto Travaglini. Cinzia and Alessia belong to the third and fourth generation of the Travaglini family – a renowned producer of traditional, limited production wines made in the tiny appellation of Gattinara in northern Italy’s esteemed Piedmont region. 

Cinzia and Alessia will share their full U.S. range alongside a carefully designed menu, including current releases of Gattinara and Gattinara Riserva, as well as, Tre Vigne – a blend of Nebbiolo grapes from three historic vineyard sites made only in the best vintages, and Il Sogno – a unique appassimento wine, together with a few special, older vintages.

Wine and Tasting

So excited to taste the portfolio of “one of Italy’s most recognizable wines and the #1 selling Gattinara in the world.” The first thing that struck me, besides meeting the amazing mother-daughter team and before my first taste of anything was the shape of the bottles. Misshapen, like a Chateauneuf Du Pape, but with a slightly rounded front, flat back and sides, except for one notch that holds the thumb perfectly for pouring. We later learned that they designed the bottle in 1958 with the idea of both a decanter shape and one that catches sediment. No other winery has adopted their design.

Cinzia talked about the volcanic soil in the Gattinara area, its proximity to the Alps, “more fresh” weather and how each of these elements contributes to the elegance in the wine. She said it was easy to drink with all foods – which we would soon learn for ourselves.

Alessia explained that her grandfather planted vineyards in the 1920s, with a focus on quality over quantity. They produce 20 thousand cases per year.

 

Nebole 2013 – aromas and flavors separated by ;

We were greeted with a taste of their sparkling wine that was made from 100% Nebbiolo – as were all of the wines we were to taste – that had been vinified into a white wine. Lemon zest, talcum powder, white flower; bruised yellow apple, sawdust, lively with medium acid.

Nebbiolo Coste Della Sesia DOC 2017

Aged four months in stainless steel followed by 10 months in Slovenian oak. Can be drunk after 2 years or 40. Rose petal, stewed tomatoes, dry earth; dry red fruit, tannic, oak and a long finish.

 

Gattinara DOCG 2015

After stainless steel fermentation the wine underwent two years on Slovenian oak casks of different sizes. Earth, spice, dried red cherries, tree bark, barnyard; small red berries, dry, tobacco.

 

Gattinara Tre Vigne DOCG 2013

Three vineyard blend, aged four years in Slovenian oak after initial time in stainless. However, for that last fourth year, 20% is aged in barrique. The wine is later blended together and then rests for an additional 10 months in bottle. Earth, grilled mushroom, incense, crushed red fruit; got that same red fruit and mushroom on the palate, gritty, dry with a long finish.

 

Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2013

35-60 year old estate vines, aged three years in different sized barrels of Slovenian oak, then rests in bottle for an additional year. Floral, aromatic, milk chocolate; spice, red fruit and bright.

 

Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2009

These last three wines may have been my favorites of the tasting. This one, a 2009 and the 2006 that follows, definitely surprised me and I commented to Cinzia how remarkably different the aromas and flavors were between the older wines and their younger siblings. I also learned from Cinzia – after I mentioned this – that these two were “considered great vintages.” 35-60 YO vines, three years in Slovenian oak and one year in bottle. Plum, bark, dark chocolate, brown sugar; layered dark fruit, tobacco, dusty and lingering.

 

Gattinara Tre Vigne DOCG 2006

The second “great vintage” wine came from three different estate vineyards, four years in Slovenian oak, 20% held back in barrique for the final year, then blended back in with the rest of the wine and rests in bottle for 10 months. Blueberry, blackberry, perfumy, toasted wood; plums, slightly sweet with a beautiful balance of dusty fruits and tannins.

 

Il Sogno 2014

100 days of drying out leaving only 50% of the water in the grapes, 40 months in Slovenian oak, in bottle for 10 months rest. The highest % of alcohol in the line-up with 15.5. Fleshy red fruit, stems, earth, mint; slightly sweet, chocolate covered black cherry, easy to drink with lots of lovely berries and tannin.

 

The Menu

There was no specific pairing for the foods and the wine. We had three wines per course, per se, to try. I found that the younger lighter wines were perfect with the tomato and cheese course and the Branzino, while the older reds were outstanding with the lasagna and steak. I had to agree with Cinzia, the wines paired well with all types of foods. This is the full menu:

 

FIRST COURSE

Insalata Caprese, Market Tomatoes, Fresh Burrata, Aged Balsamic, Basil. (Healthy portion of cheese and we all inhaled this dish.)

 

SECOND COURSE

Pasta Duo: Bombolotti all Norma, Eggplant, Tomato, Basil, Dried Ricotta.

Lasagna Verde “Omaggio Nonna Elvira”, Beef and Veal Ragu.

(This was truly to die for. As I’m writing this I’ve just finished the leftovers they packed up for me. I will never want plain lasagna again.)

 

THIRD COURSE

Choice of: Grilled Branzino Filet, Chopped Tomatoes, Sautéed Mixed Vegetables.

Grilled Organic Chicken, Roasted Potatoes, Spinach.

Grilled Hanger Steak, Arugula, Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.

(I shared the fish and steak with a couple of other people but missed out on the chicken. The fish was so delicate and so wonderful with the younger reds as I stated earlier, and the steak was delectable with the older reds. I linger over this in my mind now…)

 

PER FINIRE

Selection of Cheeses.

Housemade Biscotti.

(I had to skedaddle on the road so I missed this finale. I saw photos and heard from other writers in attendance that both the cheeses and the desserts were incredible.)

Photos of the food and wine here.

About Travaglini

Driven by a passion for exceptional Nebbiolo, the Travaglini family has been producing remarkable, limited- production wines in Gattinara for four generations. The Travaglini family has owned land in Gattinara since the beginning of the 19th century. The family’s winemaking tradition started with Clemente Travaglini, who was succeeded by his son Arturo, however, it was not until 1958 when Arturo’s son, Giancarlo, took the helm that the Travaglini Estate Winery was established as it exists today.

Today, the Travaglini family owns 146 acres of vineyards, 128 of which are dedicated to vines, primarily Nebbiolo, covering roughly 50% of total vineyards within the Gattinara DOCG. This small appellation lies in the rocky foothills of the Monte Rosa range, where ventilating winds blow down from the nearby Alps. Soils are rocky and rich in porphyry, granite and iron. Similar in composition to the Alps, Monte Rosa’s sedimentary rock is highly acidic, due to low levels of calcium carbonate and magnesium, and an absence of calcium. Vines grown in this rare soil produce grapes with a unique flavor profile, high acidity and firm tannins. The finished wines offer refreshing acidity, soft tannins, minerality and complexity.

https://www.travaglinigattinara.it/en/winery/

About Angelini Osteria

Gino Angelini has become known as simply everyone’s favorite Italian chef in Los Angeles, winning over the city with his authentic dishes.   The Angelini brand has evolved into three divisions: dining, catering and products.

In 2001, Gino Angelini and his wife Elizabeth opened Angelini Osteria, an Italian restaurant in Los Angeles. Since opening, Angelini Osteria has become one of LA’s most celebrated restaurants. The Osteria has blazed the trail for many Italian dishes in Los Angeles, including its famous Linguine Sea Urchin and the sought after Spaghetti Norcina. To this day the Osteria remains family owned and controlled.

The Angelini’s partnered with 17-year veteran employee, Girolamo Rindone, to open a classic Italian bar, Angelini Alimentari. Angelini Alimentari is a gourmet fast-casual dining concept featuring light California-Italian inspired breakfast, lunch and dinner fare with an focus on pickup and delivery.

https://www.angelinirestaurantgroup.com/angelini-osteria

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Napa 2017 After The Fires: Hourglass

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Not sure how many locals had mentioned Hourglass Winery to me but enough that my whistle was sufficiently whetted. I sought out an appointment and, lucky for me, gained admission.

hourglassDriving up a small road off the Silverado Trail in Calistoga a small brass sign depicting an hourglass led me in the right direction. At the end of the drive we parked near a small private home and walked up to the winery. Its size and scope immediately impressed me, and I would soon attribute the same characteristics to CEO and Founder Jeff Smith: I would be blown away not only by an incredible tasting but also a vast winemaking knowledge I had yet to completely understand.

My hand whizzed over my notepad as fast as it could to keep up with Jeff’s family story, his own story and, when prompted by his mother that wanted him to prove himself worthy of turning her Calistoga property into a winery – his depth of understanding what it takes to make killer wine. Note to my winemaking friends: I have my notepad and you can read it all for yourself if you ask me nicely. Some of the notes I have shared here are designated as For The Wine Geek.

The cave we had our meeting in was created when extra dynamite was left over after making the barrel caves. Smith said something along the lines of, “We have extra dynamite, let’s blow something up!” And this cave was unlike any other I have seen, with fur covered chairs and inventive lighting…I kept waiting for the bear to show up. Which, now that I knew Smith’s sense of humor, he had a bear story too.

Jeff’s family moved to the area in 1964. St. Helena was a sleepy town until the Judgment of Paris. His father built the Wine Country Inn about a decade later. They planted fruit trees over the many acres of rocky land that they owned. It was at a cocktail party with Dan Duckhorn that his father was told he shouldn’t waste his time with fruit trees, he should plant Zinfandel vines – and he did. When Jeff’s father passed away in 1990 Jeff took over the vineyard. His mother was ready to sell by then, but that’s when Jeff convinced her to pull out the Zin to make room for Cab.

Jeff was only 26 at the time. He was fiddling around in college and in a band, but he was watching his neighbors. He decided to get some help from a pal at UC Davis, got them to look at his soil, and learned he did indeed have a great site.

Now here is where my notes veer into the geography of the land (streams, soil, gravel, minerals that combined would represent the “tip of narrow crossing” of an hourglass), the varietals grown (all five Bordeaux varietals), the mentors that would guide Jeff (Bob Foley helped with the early vintages, then came Tony Biagi who is the current winemaker) and his thirst (forgive the pun) in what seemed to me as a quest to learn it all.

For The Wine Geek: I asked about the use of the “cult” name and how it might relate to Hourglass. Jeff said there are only eight cult wineries, no more, and they are credited with defining a paradigm shift in winemaking and the high ph movement. And the movement “grew” out of the cult wine phenomenon.

Current Wines Available For Tasting (Note Blue Line and Hourglass are both separate estate wines, not a first and secondary label.)

2015 HG3 Hourglass Red Blend was what Jeff referred to as a “Bordelaise Stew”, it was different each year, with Merlot, Cabernet and one other, to-be-decided black fruit. The aromas alone that reminded me of incense Jeff said was sandalwood.

2015 Blueline Estate Cabernet Franc was destined to be my favorite. With aromas of wet gravel, a juicy palate and cigar – Jeff said this wine would only develop over time.

For the 2015 Blueline Estate Cabernet Sauvignon this time I got aromas of next day Bolognese spaghetti sauce, only because the second day is so much better than the first. The spice, blue to black fruit and killer aromatics brought up…you guessed it…a lesson in how those aromatics develop. For The Wine Geek: Somehow they can stop/suspend the polymerization during fermentation to shorten the tannins. “Unresolved tannins” is like that tea bag that steeped for too long. A “wet chemist”, that would be hired from veraison onward, would be the person to manage (and explain better than I can) this suspension process.

2014 Hourglass Estate Cabernet Sauvignon tasted like it was ten years older than a 2014, very mature I thought. Jeff said that “maturity was a function of the vineyard.” The wine would develop more of that “cigar box” in time and it’s the richness, medium acidity and minerality that makes you want to go in for that next sip. For The Wine Geek: Hourglass has never had an acid adjustment. The saving grace of Blueline is the minerality. Tannins bond with “salivary protein.”

A 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Hourglass Estate was the wine we finished with, and while whites are usually served first when we had this last I thought: what a great palate refresher. Made with 20% new oak, neutral oak and stainless steel I got a nice lime on the nose with balanced acidity and fresh fruit that lingered on the palate. I only wished I could’ve started tasting through these wines all over again. For The Wine Geek: The length of this wine came from the fruit. There was no “cat piss” odor as they have a warm climate that equals “less piss.”

Lastly, For The Wine Geek: As we were just about to say our goodbyes we got into a discussion about what influences people about wine. Jeff said that winemaker Clark Smith (Clark was in Santa Clarita once for a holiday tasting at Valencia Wine Co. where I met him the first time, and a second time when we judged together for the Long Beach Grand Cru.) did a “chemistry class” where different music was played while each person judged a wine. After more than three tries in rating the same wines in the same order – but with different music – Jeff got different results. He remembered what he had rated the wine before, and the wines were in the same order, but his results were still different! Beach Boys, jazz, hard rock, classic, classic with a modal change…each presented a new result. Jeff said his notes would “flip again and again” and possibly due to “input creating a change in the chemical pathways…” Totally going to try this myself!

#NapaFire

No one in the Hourglass family lost their home, however two of their consultants did. The winemaking crew stayed on, lost power at one point and a neighbor helped them out. When their neighbor lost their power next, Hourglass was able to help them. The fire ran 100 feet per second according to CDF. They did lose some fruit from Sonoma that would’ve been used for HG3.

Tasting at Hourglass

Our goal with winery visits is to immerse the enthusiast in the art of what we do. We seek to create an intimate experience that will deliver a greater depth of knowledge of winemaking in general and a look behind the scenes at how we apply that craft. When you visit with us, plan on an hour to an hour and a half immersion that will take you into the core of the winery to include a tasting of aging wines at rest in barrel and current bottled releases. The experience will be guided by either Proprietor Jeff Smith, Operations Manager Marybeth Egner, or Director of Private Clients Ian Fenwick, all of whom have deep knowledge of Napa Valley and are well versed in every aspect of our winemaking…read more.

https://www.hourglasswines.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Vintage Eve Circa 12/2013: Visiting Phifer Pavitt

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Wowza – Suzanne Phifer Pavitt continues to blow us away!  Greeting us – on crutches from a recent surgery – we climbed up to see the brand new second story tasting room. (Last year when we visited it was under construction.) It was the perfect backdrop for us to visit, and taste the latest vintages of her award winning DATE NIGHT Cabernet Sauvignon and the second vintage of winemaker Gary Warburton’s Sauvignon Blanc.

Suzanne explained that the Sauvignon Blanc had some residual sugar, besides a few other surprises, so she suggested we taste the Cab first.  As Suzanne’s gut instinct about most things are dead-on correct, we switched up our usual routine and tried the Cab.

I was a wee bit distracted by the tasting notes provided by the winemaker, Ted Osborne, so I circled some of his that I found and added a few of my own:

Eve, Suzanne Phifer Pavitt, Photo credit Ed Bushman (2012 visit)

Eve, Suzanne Phifer Pavitt, Photo credit Ed Bushman (2012 visit)

2010 DATE NIGHT Cabernet Sauvignon

Osborne and I both found Cinnamon, tannins, chocolate. I also noted cinnamon toast, plum jam, spicy dark chocolate, and a perfect balance of fruit and tannin.

2012 Sauvignon Blanc

100% Sauvignon Blanc, 100% stainless steel.

This is their second vintage.

Aromas of Sprite soda, green apple, sweetened grapefruit and a bit o’ honey. Flavors of crisp Ambrosia apples, apricots, pleasant mouth-coating viscous honey, and a long death-defying finish. (Tasting the wine it reminded me a little of the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc for its nut fruit and low acidity.  However, Warburton’s work was better!)

More About Suzanne Phifer Pavitt

Phifer Pavitt, prompted by Cub Reporter/My Husband Eddie Bushman, told us more about her work during our leisurely tasting.  She had recently returned from DC where she was honored, along with only six others, for being Fortune’s most powerful women in business.  One of her anecdotes was meeting Warren Buffet.  With her long, slim hand she reached through a crowd of ladies to shake his.  Then she introduced herself.  Buffet was intrigued by her boldness even further when she said, “Sixty-six percent of luxury goods are purchased by women, but not wine” and then vowed to change that.

“How will you change things?” asked the cub reporter, to which Phifer Pavitt said that one way was through “A Woman’s Palate” online magazine that has a campaign geared for executive women called, “Don’t Give Up The Wine List.”  Through their Wine Boot Camp a woman can be more confident about taking charge of a dinner she is hosting as well as she does the boardroom.  The program was started by Susan Citron and Sharon Harris – with Phifer Pavitt.

Phifer Pavitt’s goals, besides helping other women traverse the wine world with ease, is to remain true to her own: Never sell more than a case of wine to anyone.  This way when someone tells a friend about the winery, and that person tells their friends, not only will there be more people discovering Phifer Pavitt, they won’t run out of wine!

Conclusion:  Can’t wait for my annual lunch with Warburton to pick up the bottles I bought and hear more about his work in Calistoga!  And a possible DATE NIGHT Bubbly???

http://www.phiferpavittwine.com

Napa Valley November 2013 Facebook Album Link

Perlises Pick: MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. MASTER CLASS

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Wine education is always a good thing, and when you have the opportunity to attend a class led by Tim Gaiser, renowned Master Sommelier and wine educator – even better. With only somewhat over 200 people in the world having obtained this designation, Tim’s vast wine knowledge and entertaining speaking style always make his presentations must-attends.

Master Sommelier Tim Gaiser, Food and Beverage Magazine

Master Sommelier Tim Gaiser, Food and Beverage Magazine

Taking classes outside of my comfort zone is also rewarding. My focus and small amount of expertise is regarding certain areas of California wine. I’ve often felt that should I not have this as my area of interest that I’d like to expand my knowledge of Italian wines. Whenever I am exposed to wines from Italy, I find the flavors right up my alley – but there is an extraordinary amount to learn, both in terms of history and grape varieties.

Fortunately, Tim Gaiser’s favorite wine region apparently is Italy, so I was in the right place.

In this case, Karen and I had the opportunity to attend a MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. MASTER CLASS at Mr. C’s in Beverly Hills, put on by IEEM (International Event & Exhibition Management), led by Mr. Gaiser with wine samples and information provided by representatives of wineries of the region.

From the seminar brochure:

Moscato d’Asti is one of the most renowned and highly regarded Italian sweet wines, produced in the Piedmont region. Characterized by exceptionally high quality and surprisingly simple production methods, Moscato d’Asti is a very natural agricultural product. It retains the intense, musky aroma of the grapes from which it is made, Moscato Bianco. A sip brings to the palate special notes that remind one of wisteria, lime, peach and apricot, along with hints of sage, lemon and orange blossoms. The low alcohol content of Moscato d’Asti (about 5% by volume) makes it ideal for everyone, and particularly appropriate for holiday celebrations, birthdays and weddings.

If Moscato d’Asti is an extraordinary wine, part of the credit goes to the Consortium for the Promotion of Asti, an institution which has protected and promoted both this wine and Asti Spumante all over the world since 1932. The Consortium sponsors research through specific scientific studies and through the application of technological innovations to improve the production process. In addition, it conducts quality controls along the entire production chain and ensures that the Consortium’s seal, which depicts the patron saint of Asti, Saint Secundus on horseback, is not improperly used.

Wines we tasted, all from the 2016 vintage…

Winery: MICHELE CHIARLO

Name of wine: NIVOLE

Vineyard location: Canelli (Piedmont)

 

Winery: SARACCO

Name of wine: MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.P.

Vineyard location: In the village of Castiglione Tinella.

 

Winery: COPPO

Name of wine: MONCALVINA

Vineyard location: Canelli (Piedmont)

 

Winery: MARENCO VINI

Name of wine: SCRAPONA

Vineyard location: Strevi.

 

Winery: VIGNAIOLI DI SANTO STEFANO – CERETTO

Name of wine: MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G.

Vineyard location: Santo Stefano Belbo, Canelli, Calosso.

 

Winery: CAUDRINA

Name of wine: LA CAUDRINA

Vineyard location: Castiglione Tinella.

 

(I apologize for any typographical errors.)

Moscato Bianco is considered the “original muscat” with seven other muscats that descended from this grape.

The vineyard are on steep hillsides, so hand harvesting is necessary. These dry-farmed vineyards are spread over 24,000 acres – this area is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The harvested grapes are pressed and the juice is typically stored in stainless steel. The fermentation, and the bubbles, are natural processes. The juice can be kept cold with no fermentation until the need a new batch arrives, so there may be multiple fermentations during a year.

All the wines were tasty. To me, the differences between them were very slight, perhaps due to my Zin-jaded palate. Great notes of stone fruits and citrus, along with floral aromatics, were present. Low alcohol [5% or so] and a little sweetness make these wines great for dessert, an aperitif or even an afternoon quaff. They have a creamy quality when young, but as they age over a few years develop more mineral characteristics. Prices are really reasonable — $15 to $25 or so, so definitely worth buying a few to experiment with.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.