Perlis Picks: Some Wine History Books

May 23, 2020 by Michael Perlis

I find myself reading more lately, so I thought it was a good time to catch up on some books to review and suggest to our readers.

We’re going to start by going way back.

Painting by Ferdinand Deppe, photo credit California Historical Society.

In Tasting the Past: The Science of Flavor and the Search for the Origins of Wine, journalist Kevin Begos chronicles his first taste of a red wine from his hotel mini-bar in Jordan made by the Cremisan Winery and Monastery. The wine and winery were both unfamiliar to him [and definitely to me and I expect probably to you too]. That bottle set him off on a multi-year, multi-country quest to learn about the grape varieties that went into the truly old-world wines, many of which are not known of at all in the United States, such as Jandali, Hamdani and Baladi. Tracing the history and combining that quest with a healthy dose of wine science results in a fascinating story that left me wanting to learn more. Told in an engaging and witty style, Begos is definitely someone I’d like to share a bottle of something obscure and interesting with.

Tasting the Past: The Science of Flavor and the Search for the Origins of Wine

By Kevin Begos

https://www.amazon.com/Tasting-Past-Science-Flavor-Origins/dp/1616205776

Jumping forward (a lot) is Crush: The Triumph of California Wine by John Briscoe. This book traces the history of wine in California from the 1700s, with the theme of the crises over which the California wine industry has triumphed. While Prohibition might be the first thing to come to mind, the author also discusses the San Francisco earthquake, world wars and phylloxera, as well as economics and politics, as impediments over which the California wine industry has been ultimately triumphant. Briscoe, who lives in San Francisco, is himself a poet, lawyer and author of other published books as well as being co-owner of the fifth oldest restaurant in the United States – Sam’s Grill.

Crush: The Triumph of California Wine

By John Briscoe

https://www.amazon.com/Crush-Triumph-California-John-Briscoe/dp/1943859493/ref=tmm_hrd_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1588273558&sr=8-1

About the only thing not covered in great depth about California wine in Crush is the story of wine in our own Los Angeles area. Thomas Pinney nicely fills that gap with The City of Vines: A History of Wine in Los Angeles. I first became familiar with Mr. Pinney’s work when I read his exhaustive two volume A History of Wine in America (which I highly recommend). This book enables Pinney to provide a much more micro analysis of how much wine dominated our local area and environs. Of course, I had known for some time that the wine industry in L.A. today is a mere shadow of what it used to be, but I had not realized to what extent this was true. The list of street name origins alone is enough to drive this point home. Alas, those are mostly about all we have left of that legacy. Many factors contributed to the demise of the Los Angeles wine story – prohibition, rising real estate values, population changes, Pierce’s disease are just some of them.

The City of Vines: A History of Wine in Los Angeles

By Thomas Pinney

https://www.amazon.com/City-Vines-History-Wine-Angeles/dp/1597143987/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=city+of+vines&qid=1588273634&sr=8-1

The last part of City of Vines touches a little on the resurgence of winemaking in LA County, with mentions of Rosenthal and Moraga along with Reyes up here in the Santa Clarita Valley. But followers of Eve’s Wine 101 know there is a lot more than that going on. In the SCV alone we have Pulchella, Hoi Polloi, Pagter Brothers, to name just some of them. Farther northeast is Golden Star and down in Los Angeles are Byron Blatty as well as Angeleno in downtown L.A., among others. While these developments were probably not considered significant enough at the time to be included in the book, there is actually even more going on, which I will tell you about soon.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also President of MCP Financial, which provides outsourced controller services. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or mcpfinancial@aol.com.

Perlis Picks: Women Winemakers

May 2, 2020 by Michael Perlis

I like to think that I am fairly genderblind when it comes to professions. But, when I saw the Women Winemakers website and recently released book, I got to thinking. Karen and I have been seriously interested in wine for over 30 years. Over that time, we have gotten to know dozens of winemakers. But, to be honest, very few of them have been women. I can only think of a few that we can say we know personally (Janell Dusi of J Dusi Wines, Jordan Fiorentini of Epoch Estate Wines, Shauna Rosenblum of Rock Wall Wine Company and Sonja Magdevski of Casa Dumetz come to mind) and I expect that not all of them would admit to knowing us.

The website’s official title is Women Winemakers of California and Beyond. Per the website: “The primary goal of our searchable web-based resource is to illuminate the lead women winemakers of California wineries, those who have primary responsibility for producing the wine…Our new…Beyond California section of the site illuminates the lead women winemakers in international wine areas we have visited…”

Gilbert, Penedes region Spain

The “search” feature of the site is especially fun to use, to look up information on the winemakers who I do know, those who I have just heard of, and those who are new to me.

Women Winemakers is the brainchild of Lucia Albino Gilbert, Ph.D. (Professor Emerita of Psychology at Santa Clara University and Professor Emerita of Educational Psychology at the University of Texas at Austin) and John Carl (Jack) Gilbert, Ph.D. (Professor Emeritus of Chemistry and Biochemistry at Santa Clara University and at the University of Texas at Austin).

Dr. Lucia Gilbert’s studies of women’s career paths in male-dominated fields, Dr. John Gilbert’s expertise in organic chemistry and their love of wine resulted in the Women Winemakers website. I asked Lucia and Jack if they could elaborate:

“During our years on the faculty at The University of Texas at Austin, we were close friends with wine aficionados who were financially able to purchase excellent European and California wines. They often invited us to join them for dinner, and they encouraged us to develop our palates for wine. When we relocated to California, joining the faculty at Santa Clara University, we were already quite familiar with California wines but only knew of male winemakers.

We had read, and were told by staff at many of the wineries we visited, that there were many lead women winemakers in California, but these many individuals were not able to identify any women winemakers other than Helen Turley and Heidi Barrett. We were surprised, to say the least, and decided that this was an important area to study. Given that Lucia’s research focused on women working in male-dominated fields, of which winemaking is certainly one, we set out to identify the women winemakers with the intent of learning about their experiences and how it compared to women in engineering, another applied science field with relatively few women. To do this, we developed an extensive and comprehensive database to obtain the actual number of lead women winemakers in California’s then 3200+ wineries. We found that only 9.8% of the lead winemaking positions were held by women, a percentage that was surprising to the wine industry and has now been widely cited in the field.

Having identified the lead women winemakers, we decided that it was important for others to know who they are, and hence developed our website, California Women Winemakers of California, which we later expanded to include lead women winemakers in other important international wine regions.”

Expanding beyond the information in the website, the Drs. Gilbert have recently released their new book Women Winemakers: Personal Odysseys which allows them to take the project further, with the stated goal “to make women winemakers more visible.” Researched over several years, the book tells the stories of several women winemakers both in and out of California, focusing on two primary questions:

First, “When did you know you loved wine?” and then determining which of four pathways best described the winemaker’s career – Sensory [coming to love wine from the aromas of food and wine; Family [coming to love wine while growing up in a winemaking family]; Science/Agronomy [coming to love wine from a grounding in science or agronomy]; or Enology [coming to love wine while formally studying enology].

The resulting conversations with winemaking luminaries such as MaryAnn Graf, Zelma Long, Merry Edwards, Cathy Corison, Carol Shelton, Mia Klein, Angela Osborne, to name just a few, were not just fascinating in their own right but also in how the various women winemakers’ careers had intersected. This was brought home to me early in the book with a photo from the Robert Mondavi Winery from the 1970s that included both Zelma Long and Carol Shelton, among others. The conversations extended well beyond those two questions and into their entire careers. Reading how they coped with the challenges of working in traditionally male roles brought out not only the variety of approaches used but also that gender-blindness is not as common as I’d like to think it is.

Check out the website here:

https://webpages.scu.edu/womenwinemakers/index.php

And the book is available here:

https://webpages.scu.edu/womenwinemakers/personalodysseys.php

Perlis Picks: 91 Harvests

April 18, 2020 by Michael Perlis

On March 19, 2020, members of the J Dusi Winery wine CLuB (including me) received the following email regarding the film “91 Harvests”:

Initially set to premiere this week at the SLO Film Festival, because of the Coronavirus situation the Film Festival has been cancelled.

This short movie has a very special place in our hearts, not only because we can talk about family, but it is beyond precious to us because our Uncle Beni is in it, as well as Dante Dusi’s wife Dottie, whom have both passed away in the last seven months. This is a personal look into the lives of the people we have loved and learned from. We have memories of time together, and conversations that we cherish.

THANKS TO THE WINE HISTORY PROJECT OF SAN LUIS OBISPO, WE ARE THRILLED TO SHARE AN ONLINE VIEWING EXPERIENCE WITH YOU.

[From the website of the Wine History Project https://winehistoryproject.org/:

“The Wine History Project of San Luis Obispo County collects and presents two centuries of local viticulture history. Through research, interviews, films, exhibitions, publications and presentations, we work with local vintners and growers to bring to life the wine history of San Luis Obispo County.”

The website is a treasure trove of information on the area’s wine industry and you should definitely spend some time enjoying it. I definitely plan to.]

The email included a Vimeo link and a passcode that was good for that weekend only. I shared the information on Facebook, including to our Eve’s Wine 101 group page. Did you see it? If not, hopefully you will get another chance.

Karen and I really enjoyed watching this film. Janell Dusi and her family have held a special place in our hearts for a long time. We first met Janell and tasted the inaugural commercial vintage of J Dusi Wines at a Paso Robles traveling road show held at a Santa Monica hotel several years ago. We were immediately hooked.

Since then, we’ve visited many times, first at the family house at the Dante Dusi Vineyard just south of Paso Robles and then later when Janell acquired the property on Highway 46 West for her winery and tasting room. We’ve loved hanging out with her and her family and seeing the progression of the winery with new and creative bottlings and now with the new Paper Street vineyard and label.

But the film was not just about the J Dusi Winery, of course. As the title of the film tells you, the tale of the Dusi family is integral to the story of the Paso Robles Wine Country – 91 harvests is a long time! Learning more about this rich history that started with the emigration from Italy of Janell’s great-grandparents Sylvester and Caterina Dusi gives the viewer a greater appreciation of all that has been accomplished. And Janell only uses about 10% of the Dante Dusi Vineyard harvest for the J Dusi wines, so there is plenty left for certain select other wineries (like Turley and Ridge) to carry on the tradition as well.

Admittedly, our favorite parts of “91 Harvests” were the scenes with Janell and her mother Joni. We really miss these two wonderful women and are looking forward to being able to visit them again.

J Dusi Wines

https://www.jdusiwines.com/

1401 CA-46, Paso Robles, CA 93446

Perlis Picks: Membership with the Historic Vineyard Society

January 18, 2020 by Michael Perlis

I’ve written about the Historic Vineyard Society various times over the years. This organization is near and dear to my heart, dedicated to the preservation of California’s historic vineyards, so many of which have been lost to development or replanted to grapes that are currently in vogue and therefore more profitable. Karen and I have had the pleasure of attending some of the society’s events and we’ve encouraged others to do so as well. We’ve also made some great friendships along the way.

But now there is an opportunity for fans of these important historic vineyards to assist in the efforts of the HVS on an ongoing basis. I recently received the following email:

You are invited to become part of the HVS family

Dear friends,

Since HVS launched almost ten years ago, we have been driven by our commitment to preserving California’s historic vineyards. Many of these vines have been around much longer than we all have, surviving two World Wars, Prohibition and an ever-changing economy and climate. We started HVS to save historic vineyards, and our mission is even more important today as it was back then.

We are continually working to initiate projects that move this goal forward, but we need your help to do so. We have decided as a Board to open up an HVS membership, one that involves an annual commitment to HVS at various levels. Why? We continue to operate with almost no overhead, but we do have a small amount of expenses to keep HVS up and running.

For those who want to take their involvement with HVS one step further, click the link below to make a commitment to supporting HVS each year. For as little as a few cents each day, you can help keep these precious vines in the ground. Thank you for your consideration, and as always, let us know if you have any questions or feedback.

Best,
The HVS Board of Directors

Signed:

Mike Officer

Tegan Passalacqua

Morgan Twain-Peterson

Bob Biale

David Gates

Mike Dildine

For those of you who are fans of old vineyard sites, especially those dedicated to Zinfandel, Syrah and great old field blends, you’ll definitely recognize at least some of these names.

Emily Rasmussen, HVS Administrator, sent me some additional information:

We have been floored and so excited by the response to our newly launched membership. We’ve started to add our members to our new Supporters page, linked here.

Here is a bit more info than we have in the email:

We offer incremental benefits as follows, listed individually on each membership page:
- Old Vine ($50/year) and Centenarian Vine ($100/year) Members receive:
  - Your name listed on the HVS website’s Supporters page
  - A welcome gift from HVS
- Ancestor Vine ($500/year) Members receive:
  - Your name listed on the HVS website’s Supporters page
  - A welcome gift from HVS
  - First access to purchasing tickets to HVS events
- Historic Vine ($1000/year) Members receive:
  - Your name listed on the HVS website’s Supporters page
  - A welcome gift from HVS
  - First access to purchasing tickets to HVS events
  - One complimentary ticket to each HVS event

Membership is a way of committing to a yearly donation to HVS. Donating is completely optional: all are welcome to support HVS by receiving our emails and attending our events, or by making a one-time donation at any amount using our Donations Page. Donating/not donating, joining/not joining membership will not impact anyone’s status on the HVS mailing list or one’s ability to attend events. All those on our mailing list will receive the same offers to purchase tickets to HVS events (and wine, if applicable).

Let me know if I can answer any other questions. Thanks so much for your support, Michael!

For anyone who has an interest in helping with the preservation of these old vineyards, this is a great opportunity to participate [along with attending events and purchasing wine, of course]. I already see some names I know on the HVS Supporters page and I’m looking forward to seeing more.

Perlis Picks: The Garagiste Festival in Glendale (Part Two)

July 27, 2019 by Michael Perlis

Last week, I wrote about the seminar that Karen and I attended at the latest Garagiste Festival in Glendale. Part 2 is about the other wines we tasted.

The grand tasting featured over 50 wineries from all over California, 23 of which also poured the previous evening at the Rare & Reserve kick-off party – shout out to Fired Up Chef Services for the great BBQ buffet dinner that accompanied this.

Here are the wineries that stood out to us. I’ve also added a few comments in brackets. We didn’t taste everything, so not being marked as a favorite isn’t a sign of disrespect. And in some cases we only tasted at a winery’s table during the Rare and Reserve tasting and if so that is indicated as well.

13^th & Third Wines – Paso Robles

2018 Rose of Grenache

2017 Lily (blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Picpoul)

2015 NMR (blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre)

[Hard to go wrong when the winemaker is Don Burns of Turtle Rock and Saxum.]

Aldina Vineyards – Sonoma

2015 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Angeleno Wine Co. – Los Angeles

2018 Super Bloom Verdejo, Clay Station

2018 Meadow Rose, Terra Alta

2017 Zanja Madre (Grenache, Tempranillo), Alonso Family Vineyard

2017 Syrah, Alonso Family Vineyard

[As I mentioned in the segment about the seminar and in a previous article, I’m a big fan of what this winery is doing in downtown LA.]

Ascension Cellars – Paso Robles

2015 Ascendance Cab/Merlot [from the R&R tasting]

Bevela Wines – Santa Barbara

2018 White Lotus Grenache Blanc [from the R&R tasting]

Bodega de Edgar – Paso Robles

2015 Gran Reserva Tempranillo [from the R&R tasting]

Byron Blatty Wines – Los Angeles

2016 Evenfall (Tempranillo, Petite Sirah and Merlot)

2015 Ghost Cat (Syrah, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot)

[both from the R&R tasting]

Cavaletti Vineyards – Santa Barbara / Los Angeles

2018 Alicante Bouschet – Barrel Sample

2017 Vigneron Reserve Syrah/Cabernet

2018 The 109 Mile Rose (Tempranillo, Grenache)

2017 Sangiovese

2017 Rancho Baila Sol Field Blend

[So impressed with everything from this winery.]

Deno Wines – Paso Robles

2010 Two Bills Zin-Grenache

2009 Paso Robles GSM

2017 Arneis, El Pomar District

2016 Estate Grenache

2016 Estate GSM

2014 Estate GSM

[These tasted like old school Paso Robles to me. I don’t mean big over-the-top wines. They brought back memories – in a good way – of visiting before things got so crowded. They have a tasting room in Templeton now, which also reminds me of old school Paso.]

DeWitt Vineyard – Sierra Foothills

2016 Estate Syrah

2015 Estate Touriga

2016 Estate Tempranillo

[Really nice, fairly prices wines. Just disappointed their Barbera wasn’t ready!]

Dusty Nabor Wines – Central Coast

2014 Bolt To Wines Grenache

2016 Bolt To Wines Grenache Blanc [the richness of this wine was amazing.]

2017 Syrah – Ballard Canyon AVA

2017 Bolt To Wines Syrah

Ferguson Family Winery – Sierra Foothills

2016 The Phoenix Zinfandel

2016 Boomshakalaka Petite Sirah

Golden Star Vineyards – Central Coast

2015 Tempranillo, Paso Robles

2016 Syrah, Chavez Vineyard, Antelope Valley AVA

[I really am past due for a visit to this high-desert winery.]

Golden Triangle – Paso Robles

2015 Syrah, Willow Creek District

2015 Cab / Syrah, Willow Creek District

[Finally got to taste Garagiste Fesitval co-founder Stewart McLennan’s wines. And the good news is that he is opening a tasting room in Templeton.]

Hoi Polloi Wines – Central Coast

2017 Rose of Grenache, Adelaida District, Paso Robles [consistently Karen’s favorite Rose]

2016 “Blue Velvet” Syrah, Larner Vineyard, Ballard Canyon AVA [a consistently great Syrah from an iconic vineyard]

[From Garagiste Festival co-founder Doug Minnick and his partners; we are lucky to have this tasting room in the Santa Clarita Valley.]

MCV Wines – Paso Robles

2018 Pink Rose

2016 Petite Sirah, Rosewynn Vineyard

2016 1105 Blend

[I’ve been a fan of Matt Villard’s wines for a long time. Some big news coming from this winery so stay tuned.]

Oceans Churning Wines – Sonoma

2014 Chardonnay [from the R&R tasting]

Powicana Farm – Mendocino

2013 Petite Sirah [from the R&R tasting]

Record Family Wines – Paso Robles

2017 Estate Viognier

2017 Estate Grenache Rose

2016 Randy’s Red (Syrah, Grenache)

2016 Reserve Syrah

[The wines are made by Jeff Strekas of ONX, so of course they’re going to be delicious.]

Two Papas Wines – Santa Barbara

2017 Grenache Blanc, Saarloos Vineyard

2017 Grenache, Saarloos Vineyard

2017 Grenache, Thompson Vineyard

2017 Syrah, Thompson Vineyard

[I was eager to taste Santa Clarita local Rick Pratt’s wines and I was totally blown away by the quality.]

Two Shepherds – Sonoma

2018 Picpoul Blanc, Yolo County

2018 Rose of Carignan, Mendocino

2018 “Wiley” Carbonic Carignan, Mendocino

2016 Carigan, Mendocinao

[William Allen continues to make his delicious, convention-defying wines.]

Velvet Bee Wines – Santa Barbara

2018 Queen Bee (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon) [from the R&R tasting]

Wandermust-Must Wines – Sonoma

2018 Verdelho [from the R&R tasting]

Zanoli Wines – Paso Robles

2017 Mourvedre, Glenrose Vineyard

2016 Syrah, Glenrose Vineyard

Congratulations to co-founders Doug Minnick and Stewart McLennan as well as Lisa Dinsmore (Event/Web Director) and Melanie Webber (Public Relations and Communications) for another great event. Their passion and hard work have really made the Garagiste Festival concept something special. We can’t wait for the next one.

Perlis Picks: The Garagiste Festival in Glendale (Part One)

July 20, 2019 by Michael Perlis

Think about one of your favorite wines. What goes into your decision to make it your favorite? Is it the varietal? The region it comes from? The terroir? The year? The label? There may be multiple reasons. I that, at least for me, a big one is passion – the passion of the vintner, winemaker, grower, everyone who worked so hard to get that wine into the bottle for you.

And nothing speaks wine passion more than the Garagiste Festivals. We at Eve’s Wine 101 have a special affinity for them, having reported on the Garagistes from the beginning, including my interview with co-founder Doug Minnick before the very first event in 2011 in Paso Robles, which Karen and I also attended. Focusing on ultra-small (and then therefore ultra-rare) production wineries, the festivals have now expanded to four annual events – Paso Robles, Solvang, Sonoma and (conveniently for locals) Los Angeles.

We’ve definitely attended our share of these over the years. They’ve now had about two dozen events in total and the passion of these winemakers is clear. More so than with a large big-budget winery, the owner/winemaker typically has to handle all or most of the tasks of the winemaking process, sometimes in addition to what their day job might be.

By the way, you may have noticed the word “garagiste” being used a lot more lately; I sure have. The Garagiste Festival doesn’t own the term, it goes back to the originally somewhat derogatory French word for small winemakers. And I can’t say for sure that the increased usage of the term overall is connected to the success of the Garagiste Festivals, although I would tend to think so. After all, they were voted the best wine festival in America. So, if you want to be sure you are supporting the real deal, go to their website and sign up for their newsletters.

Karen and I attended the latest LA event, held at the Glendale Civic Auditorium. In keeping with the LA theme, the Saturday event started with a seminar presented by three LA based wineries working to bring back to LA County an industry that used to dominate the landscape in the days before prohibition and real estate development.

Hosted by Steward McLennan, one of the founders of the Garagiste Festival, the seminar presenters were Patrick Kelley of Cavaletti Vineyards, Jasper Dickson and Amy Luftig Viste of Angeleno Wine Co. and Mark and Jenny Blatty of Byron Blatty Wines. All three wineries get a significant amount of their grapes from Los Angeles County. The Blatty wines are made in the Santa Clarita Valley and Angeleno is in the process of finalizing its tasting room and winery operations in downtown Los Angeles.

Of course, it was a wine seminar, so there was wine.

Each winery poured two wines, in the following order, lightest to heaviest:

Cavaletti Vineyards –

2018 109 Mile Rose (62% Grenache, 38% Tempranillo)

2017 Grenache, Swayze Vineyard

Angeleno Wine Co. –

2017 Zanja Madre (Grenache and Tempranillo)

2017 Syrah, Alonso Family Vineyard

Byron Blatty Wines –

2017 Undertake (60% Zinfandel, 25% Petite Sirah, 10% Merlot, 5% Syrah)

2016 Pragmatic (90% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot)

For me, the takeaway from these wines is that Los Angeles County is capable of producing a variety of styles of high quality wines. Truly something for everybody.

The winery owners all shared stories of trials and tribulations. Their individual stories varied, but they all included one common component – the challenge of teaching potential customers, retail stores and restaurants about the quality of wine coming from LA County. One might think they are fighting an uphill battle but they appear to be winning it; that takes passion! I expect the LA winery scene to continue to grow and prosper and I know of at least one cult-status winemaker who is planning to set up shop soon – more on this in a future article, hopefully.

Of course, the Garagiste Festival isn’t just about Los Angeles. The grand tasting after the seminar featured over 50 wineries from all over California, 23 of which also poured the previous evening at the Rare & Reserve kick-off party – shout out to Fired Up Chef Services for the great BBQ buffet dinner that accompanied this. More on the wines in Part 2 which will run on this site next Saturday, 7/27.

Perlis Picks: Elevating Zinfandel

June 29, 2019 by Michael Perlis

Admittedly, the last few months have been difficult for my family and me. Stuff happens to all of us so the details aren’t necessary for this article, but getting the invitation to Ian Blackburn’s WineLA’s annual Elevating Zinfandel event was like a light at the end of the tunnel.

Wine people are good people and I often feel that Zinfandel people tend to be the best people of all. Tasting through a multitude of versions of my oft-favorite varietal amidst a great group of attendees and winery participants really helped to remind me of what makes Zinfandel special to me. I was determined to relax and enjoy.

So, I took my time. I didn’t try everything, but of what I did, these were the standouts for me. (If you want to see all the wines poured, here is the link to Eve’s article: http://evewine101.com/2019/06/14/eve-gets-her-zinfandel-on-at-elevating-zin-2019/)

My first stop was Mauritson Wines where Clay Mauritson was pouring a few of his Rockpile Zinfandels (2016 Rockpile Ridge Vineyard, 2017 Rockpile Ridge Vineyard and 2017 Jack’s Cabin Vineyard), along with one 2017 designated as Dry Creek Valley. The DCV was delicious, but I was there for the Rockpiles. I’ve written before how special a place I believe the Rockpile AVA to be, and nobody showcases the region better than Mauritson. And not rushing through the tasting was really a good idea. While Clay and I reminisced about our visit to Mauritson last year and chatted about this year’s upcoming Project Zin event, the wine had a little more time to develop in the glass. The wine was showing even more of that Rockpile richness and complexity.

Pouring next to Mauritson was WineLA’s Ian Blackburn himself providing tastes of his own Beekeeper Cellars Zinfandel. This is definitely not a vanity project for Ian. His wines are serious versions of this beloved grape. My favorite here was the 2016 Secret Stones from Rockpile, but the 2016 Monticello was no slouch either.

Besides the two wineries mentioned above, Sonoma County was very well represented at this tasting. As it should be; the area is definitely one of the top destinations for Karen and me. Wineries I especially enjoyed were:

Kreck – lighter in color as can often be the case with 100% Zinfandels, neither wine poured was light in flavor. Loved both the 2016 Teldeschi Vineyard and 2016 Del Barba Vineyard.

Martinelli Winery – this Russian River Valley legendary winery was somewhat of an eye-opener for me. I’ve always enjoyed their wines, but in the past the alcohol heat was just a little apparent. Not these 2016s. All three wines being poured were delicious and very “gulpable” and the Vigneto di Evo bottling is a veritable steal at its price point.

Portalupi Winery – this was a new winery to me. They actually have been around since 2002, specializing in Italian varietals. Fortunately, they also make Zinfandel, from the famed Dolinsek Ranch in the Russian River Valley. They were pouring their regular and reserve bottlings from 2016 and 2017, with the 2017 Reserve a solid candidate for my wine of the day.

Williams Selyem – known for Pinot Noir, this winery also makes a couple of excellent Zinfandels. My favorite was the 2017 Papera Vineyard, a heritage site that Karen and I had the pleasure of visiting a few years back.

Zialena – we also visited this winery not too long ago in the Alexander Valley. They were pouring their 2016 Estate and 2015 Estate Reserve bottlings and both were delicious.

Napa Valley, while known mainly for its Cabernet Sauvignon (for some reason), has some very good Zinfandel producers that sometimes fly under the radar.

Brown Estate – a true classic winery that makes you wonder why you don’t hear more about Napa Zin. They were pouring four of them today; my favorites were the 2017 Chiles Valley and Rosemary’s Block bottlings.

Robert Biale Vineyards – a winery that excels in Petite Sirah also, but today was about their 2017 Zinfandel. They make several Zins; the two being poured were the famed Black Chicken and the Stagecoach, both wonderful examples of what can come from this area.

Finally, it might not be considered a real Zinfandel event without Turley Wine Cellars. Whitney Turley, one of the four Turley sisters represented by the stars on Turley’s corks and one of two working at Turley Wine Cellars (along with her sister Christina), was pouring four 2017 Zins. Contrary to the other wineries, these were from neither Napa nor Sonoma. The Juvenile is possibly the best deal out there for Zinfandel [or maybe anything]. The other three single-vineyard wines all had special meaning to me: Kirschenmann Vineyard in Lodi [owned by Turley Director of Winemaking Tegan Passalacqua], Buck Cobb Vineyard in Amador County [from the old Karly winery] and the Dusi Vineyard in Paso Robles [my consistently favorite Turley wine]. It should go without saying that they were all delicious; we’re talking Turley, after all.

Wrapping up the afternoon tasting, I reflected on my very purposeful decision to not rush through and attempt to taste everything but to try to really appreciate the moment, the wines, and winery people pouring them. I highly recommend this approach. Thank you to Ian Blackburn and the entire staff of WineLA for putting on another great event.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com

Perlis Picks The Spinster Sisters and The Astro

February 16, 2019 by Michael Perlis

Santa Rosa in Sonoma County is very diverse. There are many high end hotels and restaurants if you are looking for that but there are other options as well.

In what is known as the SOFA arts district are two places you should know about. The area is known as SOFA because it is South of A Street and actually has an annual sofa parade during its Winterblast street festival.

Acclaimed Chef Liza Hinman took a big chance when she opened The Spinster Sisters restaurant in 2012 in the under-served SOFA area. But the risk has clearly paid off with the restaurant’s popularity and accolades, most recently being awarded Best Restaurant in 2017 by the North Bay Bohemian. Being lauded by others as well (such as Michelin, SF Weekly, Eater and Wine Enthusiast) are just additional examples of the kudos they have received, serving Liza’s continually evolving menu featuring local products.

Truly, upon entering this restaurant, you know immediately that you wish it was in your neighborhood. A lot of adventurously prepared small plates (like smoked trout dip, pork belly sliders, steamed mussel mouclade, among many others) were keeping a large crowd in a family atmosphere very happy. The very fairly priced wine list is intriguing as well, with a nice selection of local wines combined with other California and international choices. The by-the-glass list includes some wines on tap, which adds to the fun. Oh, and they are open for breakfast and lunch too. Check out their website for more info on the menus and wine selections.

Liza’s continuing commitment to the area’s development is evident in her recent acquisition and remodeling (along with her partners from The Spinster Sisters) of The Astro Motel, which is walking distance from the restaurant. Admittedly, this was another risk on her part, as the property had long been considered a blight to the area. But Liza and her team have transformed the Astro.

The Astro has 34 rooms, of which two are Doubles and two are King Suites. The rest have Queen size beds in them. Built in the early 60s, it used to look like a pretty standard “motor hotel” with rooms in a U-shaped layout with a parking lot in the middle. That parking lot is mostly gone, replaced by landscaping and an edible garden. A short walk to offsite parking picks up the overflow. Each room has its own colorful and eclectic furnishings designed by local artists and craftspeople. And all these mid-century original items are for sale.

The Astro actually opened earlier than planned, as FEMA approval granted after the fires in late 2017 for them to house displaced survivors at no cost to them, again just showing commitment to the area.

The downstairs lounge area currently serves breakfast with coffee from Flying Goat and pastries from Criminal Bakery. The lounge is a roomy place to wind down and use the free WiFi to go through emails at the end of a day of sightseeing. The plan is to expand the offerings to include wine tasting from local producers.

The Astro is a fun place to stay. There are plenty of things to do in the area as well. One of the investors is Giro d’Italia champion Andy Hampsten and the motel rents Shinola Bikes to its guests. Also, per the website: “It’s the only place in Sonoma County where, within a five-minute walk, travelers can gaze at contemporary art or used cars, see an avant-garde theater ensemble or a team of bocce players, get a tattoo or a tintype portrait, and a taste of the some of the finest wine, beer and produce in Northern California.” Besides, you’re right in the middle of Sonoma County.

It wouldn’t be right to close this article without a big thank you to The Astro General Manager Lisa Robbins and her staff. They are a gracious group and went out of their way to take excellent care of us.

The Spinster Sisters

401 S A St, Santa Rosa, CA 95401

The Astro

323 Santa Rosa Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95404

https://theastro.com/

http://thespinstersisters.com/

Perlis Picks: Vintners Inn

February 9, 2019 by Michael Perlis

Karen and I often extol the virtues of staying at a winery when visiting wine country. Nothing beats the ambience of waking up to a vineyard scene. But, maybe you are looking for more than what a typical winery may have to offer.

What about staying at a property modeled after a Southern Mediterranean village, with all the amenities you could ask for? And, yes, you will have that vineyard view all day long.

Welcome to Vintners Inn.

Located in Santa Rosa with easy access to local wineries as well as being able to jump on the freeway to expand your adventures – but Vintners Inn offers so much that you don’t need to leave the property if you don’t want to.

We spoke to Percy Brandon, General Manager of Vintners Inn. He’s been with Vintners Inn over 18 years as he has shepherded them through their master plan with the expansion of additional luxury rooms, bringing the total from 44 to 78 – all of the new rooms have tons of modern features as well as vineyard views. Percy emphasized that the Vintners Inn motto of “Celebrate Everything” is not just a catchy phrase but it truly applied to all aspects of the guests’ stay.

Acquired by Rhonda Carano and her late husband Don in 2000, it was a great addition to their existing ownership of Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery. Percy came on board initially to manage the onsite John Ash & Co restaurant but soon took over the entire property. His enthusiasm and clear love for what he does permeates all aspects of the Vintners Inn.

The elegant John Ash & Co restaurant is only the beginning of what this property has to offer. Other dining options include the The Front Room Bar & Lounge (its Happy Hour is a locals’ favorite) as well as the River Vine Café for breakfast and lunch. The recent additions not only include the luxurious new guest rooms but also the Vi La Vita Spa.

Being very environmental conscious, Vintners Inn has achieved the California Green Lodging Program’s Environmental Level. Not only is there an onsite 68 acre vineyard, but vegetable gardens and olive trees to supply the property’s restaurants. There are even beehives. Feel free to stroll among the vines and experience wine country firsthand.

With a total property size of 98 acres, Vintners Inn also boasts a meeting and event center – who wouldn’t want to hold a business or pleasure function in this paradise? Not to mention the outdoor Vineyard Pavilion. No wonder Vintners Inn is such a popular wedding site; I think we saw two during our last stay and Percy told us they host dozens of weddings annually.

Vintners Inn

https://www.vintnersinn.com/

4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95403

Perlis Picks Zinfandel: Stories from Napa Valley

February 2, 2019 by Michael Perlis

During our trip to Santa Rosa in Sonoma County, Karen and I naturally got a hankering for some Zinfandel. So, where did we go? Well, Napa, of course. Wait, really?

Admittedly, Zinfandel may not be the first varietal that comes to mind when one thinks about Napa, but maybe it should be. After all, the popularity of current “fad” grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon is a fairly recent phenomenon and historically vineyards were planted heavily to Zinfandel, often interspersed with other varietals.

Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) is the organization for all things Zinfandel. Perhaps best known for the huge annual January event in San Francisco, ZAP does a number of other things as well. According to the ZAP website: “Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) is a membership based organization that advances knowledge and appreciation for American Zinfandel and its unique place in our culture and history.”

Last year, ZAP held a series of events in various California wine regions, highlighting the Zinfandel producers and vineyards of those regions. Our timing prevented us from attending the event held in Sonoma County but with Napa being only a hop, skip and a jump over the Mayacamas Mountains [from our morning visit to Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery], we were excited to attend…

Zinfandel: Stories from Napa Valley.

Held in the CIA at Copia, Napa, the event consisted of a tasting seminar followed by a walk-around reception. Moderated by the always entertaining “Sommelier to the Stars” Christopher Sawyer, the speaker panel consisted of Julie Johnson (Tres Sabores), Carol Brown (Brown Estate Vineyards), Tres Goetting (Robert Biale Vineyards) and Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Wine Cellars). And, yes, wine was included with the seminar, as any respectable wine seminar should include wines to taste. (Maybe all seminars regardless of whether about wine or not should include wine, but I digress.) The wines presented were:

Tres Sabores – 2015 Estate Zinfandel, Rutherford

Brown Estate Vineyards – 2016 Estate Zinfandel, Chiles Valley

Robert Biale Vineyards – 2016 Aldo’s Zinfandel, Oak Knoll

Turley Wine Cellars – 2016 Dragon Zinfandel, Howell Mountain

The wineries and wines presented offered great examples of the diversity of Napa Valley Zinfandel showcasing wines from the valley floor as well as from mountainside vineyards.

Each speaker had some interesting tidbits for us. Among other things, I learned that Julie Johnson was one of the founders of Frog’s Leap Winery (along with John Williams and Larry Turley) as well as “Women for Wine Sense” before eventually founding her own Tres Sabores winery in 1999. We’ve known Tres Goetting for some time and loved his comment that “I love Zinfandel because it is a mysterious varietal that never ceases to amaze.” I think we’ve known Tegan Passalacqua even longer and found his remark very intriguing that the Howell Mountain AVA is the most unique AVA that he has worked with. But I think that Coral Brown really touched on how I feel about Zinfandel when she said that their goal is to make the wine shine and the food pairing is just like a backup singer to the wine.

During the seminar, Christopher Sawyer also shared with us that ZAP had just received a grant from the California Department of Food and Agriculture to help to fund the launch of “Zinfandel Stories: Preserving California’s Legendary Vineyards.” This was especially good news to us, as we are staunch advocates of the importance of California’s historic vineyards, so many of which are Zinfandel-based.

After the seminar it was time for the reception, which included many more wineries organized to showcase Zinfandel from Napa Valley’s different growing regions, along with bites from the CIA kitchen. Here’s what was poured…

From Calistoga:

August Briggs Winery

2015 Ancient Vines

2015 Old Vines

Chateau Montelena Winery

2012 Estate

2014 Estate

T-Vine Winery

2014 Frediani Vineyard

From Chiles Valley:

Brown Napa Valley

2016 Estate

Green & Red Vineyard

2015 Chiles Mill Vineyard

2015 Chiles Canyon Vineyard

From Howell Mountain:

Howell Mountain Vineyards

2015 Old Vine

2015 Beatty Ranch Reserve

Lamborn Family Vineyards

2014 The Earthquake Vintage

2014 The Platinum Anniversary

Outpost Wines

2015 Estate

2016 Estate

Summit Lake Vineyards

2014 Summit Lake Vineyard

From Napa Valley:

Ballentine Vineyards

2016 Estate

2015 Reserve

Grgich Hills Estate

2013 Estate

2014 Miljenko’s Old Vines

Hendry

2015 Blocks 7 & 22

2015 Blend

2015 Mike and Molly

Saddleback Cellars

2016 Old Vine

The Lost Chapters (Scotto Cellars)

2013 The Lost Chapters

Turley Wine Cellars

2016 Dragon Vineyard

2016 Hayne Vineyard

2016 Mead Ranch

Sattui Winery

2015 Black Sears

2015 Vittoria’s Vineyard

2015 Quaglia Vineyard “Agent Vine”

From Oak Knoll:

Robert Biale Vineyards

2016 Aldo’s Vineyard

From Oakville:

Oakville Ranch Winery

2015 Field Blend

2014 Field Blend

From Rutherford:

Neal Family Vineyards

2016 Rutherford Dust Vineyard

Tres Sabores

2016 Estate

From St. Helena:

D-cubed Cellars

2014 Korte Ranch

The above list is from the program. (More wines were poured as well.) I listed them all here, not to boost my word count (well maybe a little) but to emphasize that there is really a lot going on in Napa Valley when it comes to Zinfandel. Personally, I’ve always been a fan of wines from Howell Mountain, like Outpost. At the same times there’s no denying the richness of the lower elevation wines like Brown and Green & Red. There’s a lot of diversity and a Zin for every taste, for sure.

I think it is especially important to support Napa’s Zinfandel production as these vineyards are in constant danger of being replaced with more profitable grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon. So please, go out and get some Napa Zin soon.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Ev Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.