Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: Historic Vineyard Society 2022 Newsletter

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We’ve been fans and members of the Historic Vineyard Society for some time and are deeply appreciative of the work they do registering and preserving California’s old vineyards. You can check out their website here: www.historicvineyardsociety.org.

It is our pleasure to share with you their end-of-2022 newsletter.       

Dear friends, 

Thank you so much from all of us at HVS for another wonderful year. 2022 marked the return to a more “normal” year for us since pre-COVID, with the triumphant return of our Vineyard Tour & Dinner events at Ridge – Lytton Springs! The event included a fascinating tour of Lytton Springs and a presentation about the history of Dry Creek Valley by Ridge Vit Intern Ryan Brennan, followed by a delicious dinner by Wood Fire Smoke BBQ paired with an incredible lineup of wines from the historic vineyards of Dry Creek Valley. In case you missed it, please check out the great photos by Larry Piggins taken from the event, linked here: www.historicvineyardsociety.org/events/2022-vineyard-tour-and-dinner.

In July, HVS board members participated in an informative panel tasting with the Vitis group at UC Davis, getting to speak with the next generation of winemakers and viticulturists about the importance of historic vineyards. To close out the year, in November we had the pleasure of putting on an tasting at Compline Wine Shop in downtown Napa featuring wines from five of Napa’s historic vineyards: Haynes, Alfred Frediani, Morisoli, Brandlin Estate, and Library vineyards.   

Our online registry continues to expand, with several vineyards added this year, including Stony Hill’s 1948 Block (St. Helena), Nicolini Ranch (Lodi, planted in the 1930s), Beatty Ranch (Napa Valley, planted in the 1910s), and Cathy Corison’s Kronos Vineyard (St. Helena, planted in 1971).

We’re approaching a very exciting time as many outstanding vineyards are on the cusp of turning 50 in the next few years. As a reminder, if you see a vineyard missing from our website or information that needs to be updated, we invite you to submit the vineyard on our website www.historicvineyardsociety.org/submit-vineyard or email us at info@historicvineyardsociety.org. The registry is very much a community-supported project, and we appreciate all your support sending us vineyards to research or anything that might need to be updated online. 

As the year comes to a close, we’d like to remind you about a few ways to support Historic Vineyard Society. While we operate with as little overhead cost as possible, we do have a few expenses to keep HVS up and running, and your support is crucial in helping us continue our work toward promoting and preserving California’s oldest vineyards.  

Ways to Support HVS: HVS Annual Membership (starting at just $50/year) HVS Ah-So Wine Openers are available on our website here – a great gift for wine collectors! A One-Time Donation to HVS Do you shop on Amazon? If so, be sure to shop on Amazon Smile and choose Historic Vineyard Society to support – and a portion of your orders will be donated to HVS!  We are actively planning our event calendar for 2023 and look forward to being in touch with details as soon as plans are confirmed! As always, if you have any questions about HVS, please don’t hesitate to contact us at info@historicvineyardsociety.org. 

With gratitude,
The HVS Board of Directors

Mike Officer                                         
Bob Biale
Tegan Passalacqua                               
David Gates
Morgan Twain-Peterson                        
Mike Dildine                                   

Perlises Pick – I. Brand and Family

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The San Francisco Chronicle named Morgan Twain-Peterson and Tegan Passalacqua their co-winemakers of the year for 2015. Why does this matter, you may ask? Typically, we don’t pay too much attention to these kind of awards. But since Morgan and Tegan are two of our very favorite winemakers (Morgan for Bedrock Wine Company and Tegan for Turley Wine Cellars as well as Sandlands), this award made us sit up and take notice of who the Chronicle named going forward.

Fast forward to 2018. The Chronicle named their winemaker of the year to be – Ian Brand. “Who?”, you may ask (we did). But further research resulted in us resolving to visit Ian’s winery tasting room in the Carmel Valley as soon as practical. It took us a while, but we finally made it.

Ian sources grapes from all over Monterey and San Benito Counties. You may not be familiar with many of the grapes and the vineyard sites are often historic and underrepresented in a land where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are king and queen.

Ian actually produces wine under three labels: Le P’tit Paysan (The Little Peasant) would be considered entry level, inspired by French Village wines; La Marea (The Tide) focuses on Spanish varietals; and I. Brand, which are single vineyard, old vine bottlings. Total annual production is about 15,000 cases, with the premium I Brand label representing the lowest production.

We tasted some of the wines from the I. Brand label when we visited the tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. Note that most of these vineyards are registered with the Historic Vineyard Society (HVS), an organization near and dear to our hearts.

2021 Arneis –from the Vista Verde Vineyard in the Paicines AVA of San Benito County

Bright, Asian pear, lemon notes. Medium to full mouth feel, long fish.  Impression of very slight sweetness, distinct and structured.

2021 Pinot Gris – from the Eden Rift Vineyard in the Cienega Valley AVA of San Benito County.

Eden Rift was planted in the early 1850s by Theophile Vaché, a pioneer of the California wine industry. Light blush color, since it spent five days on its skins. Complex tannins, strawberry raspberry notes in the mouth and on the nose. Long finish.

2021 Pinot Noir – from the Enz Vineyard in the Lime Kiln Valley AVA of San Benito County. This vineyard is registered with the Historic Vineyard Society. Temperatures are warmer in this area compared to Monterey County so harvest is earlier. The soil is limestone versus the granite of Monterey County. Great fruit nose.  Stone fruit complexity, medium mouth feel, medium to long finish.

2019 Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache – from the Chalone Vineyard in the Chalone AVA of Monterey County. This is another vineyard registered with the HVS. A perfect blend of these three grapes (56%, 32% and 12% respectively), this elegant wine had a cherry nose, red, ripe fruit and rosemary notes.  A nice long finish.

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon – from the Massa Vineyard in the Carmel Valley AVA of Monterey County

This is oldest vineyard in Carmel Valley. It was previously owned by the Durneys and is now owned by the Massas and is HVS registered. The wine was obviously still very young but was very structured and layered, with pomegranate and white pepper notes.

Ian is making outstanding wines from these great old vineyards. You should definitely take the drive to the end of Carmel Valley Village to see and taste for yourself.  It makes for a very leisurely ride.    

With the three labels, there is a variety to choose from.   The tasting room is comfy and cozy.  We enjoyed sitting outside looking at the scenery, the beautiful mountains and the surrounding areas. It only added to the overall experience.

I. Brand & Family

www.ibrandwinery.com

19 East Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley Village, CA 93924Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick: Morgan Winery

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Visiting Monterey County Wine Country can present some challenges. The area is huge and getting to wineries can result in a lot of driving time. Fortunately, many wineries have established tasting rooms in and around Carmel, often several miles away from their winemaking facilities.

Morgan Winery is one of these. While the winery itself is in Salinas, in 2007 their tasting room called Taste Morgan was opened in the Crossroads Shopping Center just south of downtown Carmel and at the gateway to Carmel Valley.

The winery itself was actually founded a couple of decades earlier in 1982 by Daniel Morgan Lee and his wife Donna. Morgan is not only Daniel’s middle name but also his mother’s maiden name. Prior to founding Morgan, Dan graduated from UC Davis – he had planned on studying veterinary medicine but then discovered their wine program. After stints at Jekel Winery and Durney Vineyard, he and his former banker [now his wife] started their own label.

In 1996, they purchased property in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA that would become the Double L Vineyard, commemorating the Double Luck of having their twin daughters. Planted primarily to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this vineyard is certified organic and is the source of the winery’s estate bottlings. As a result, our tasting focused on these varietals, which is what Monterey County has built much of its reputation on. Morgan does produce some other wines as well and we were fortunate to taste of few of those too:

2021 Sauvignon Blanc – sourced from a few vineyards in the Arroyo Seco appellation: Cedar Lane, Ranch Ten, Riverbank and Zabala. Nice peach notes with a medium to long finish and medium mouth feel. Soft and tasty. 

2021 Metallico Un-Oaked Chardonnay – a combination of Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards, including the Double L along with the Leavens and McIntyre Vineyards. Pleasant citrus nose with Meyer Lemon notes on the palate and a full mouth feel.

2021 Rosé of Grenache from Mission Ranch Vineyard, Arroyo Seco– a light nose with mixed berry and raspberry notes. Very slight hint of saltiness and a medium finish.

2020 Double L Chardonnay (Clone RR – Roger Rose) – from Morgan’s estate vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. White flower and jasmine nose.  Asian pear, buttery notes. Big, ripe, creamy, full mouthfeel, long finish. Stunning example of what chardonnay can be.  

2019 Double L Chardonnay- also from the estate vineyard. Pleasant mixed citrus nose and a fitting little brother to the Double L Chardonnay (Clone RR).

2019 Twelve Clones Pinot Noir – from a few Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards: Double L, Leaven, Boekenoogen, Tondré, and Rosella’s. Light color, classic Pinot Noir.  Ripe, red berry fruit notes.  Light and delicate on palate.

2019 Tondré Pinot Noir – from the Tondré Grapefield Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Red stone fruit notes. Big mouth feel, medium to long finish.

2019 Double L Pinot – from the Estate vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. White pepper notes, a touch of smoke, firm structure, supple and subtle.

2020 Tempranillo – from the Riverbank Vineyard, Arroyo Seco. Raisin notes with a big, smooth mouth feel. Velvety and elegant.

The tasting room is roomy, comfortable and very inviting. There are options of tasting at the bar, or enjoying window seating or at a table.  Outside seating is also available. The tastings were served in individual carafes so you can enjoy at your own pace. 

Taste Morgan is definitely worth a visit next time you are in the Carmel area.  

Taste Morgan  www.morganwinery.com/Visit-Us/Taste-Morgan                                             

204 Crossroads Boulevard
Carmel, California 93923

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick Dining on the Monterey Peninsula

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The term “embarrassment of riches” is often overused, but it is hard to come up with a better descriptor of the dining options on the Monterey Peninsula. Just the Lighthouse Avenue area of Pacific Grove alone has a dozen or so choices. Here are a few that we enjoyed.

Max’s Grill is on Forest Avenue just off of Lighthouse. Chef Hisayuki “Max” Muramatsu opened Max’s almost 20 years ago with his wife Yuko, after a stint as Executive Chef of Carmel’s Anton & Michel, among other prestigious establishments. The menu reflects his classic training as well as the best that the region has to offer. We had the pleasure of being taken care of by Yuko herself on the intimate patio. From our delicious starter of Tempura Prawns to the Karen’s Garden Salad and Michael’s Caesar [Michael couldn’t pass up the anchovies] through our entrees of Petrale Sole (the catch of the day) and the Duck Our Way (confit duck leg and duck mousse ravioli), everything tasted so fresh and delicious. As well it should, as Chef Max prides himself on making pretty much everything from scratch, even the bread!

Max’s Grill                                                                                       www.maxgrill.com                                                                                                  

209 Forest Avenue, Pacific Grove California 93950

Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar has been a fixture on Lighthouse Avenue for about ten years, serving owner Thamin Saleh’s extensive menu of Mediterranean-inspired dishes to happy locals and tourists alike. We’d actually been planning the restaurant a visit for some time, but when we did, we discovered that it was in the process of changing hands. But not to worry. New owners, Jerry Regester and Gail Grammatico, bring their own impressive chops to the table and changes are planned only gradually. We had the pleasure of dining there while Thamin was still involved in the transition. We shared the octopus in a leek-fennel sauce. Karen had the skillet seared tuna with whipped potatoes, green beans and a chardonnay-mustard sauce while Michael couldn’t pass up the pork belly with creamy polenta and roasted grapes with saba syrup. The dishes deliciously reflected combinations of Mediterranean, French and Spanish influences. We can’t wait to revisit Jeninni and see what changes the new owners make.

Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar                                                                 www.jeninni.com                                                                                                   

542 Lighthouse Ave, Pacific Grove, California 93950

Wild Fish is, as the name implies, a seafood restaurant in Pacific Grove, specializing in locally sourced seafood and produce. Kelvin and Liz Jacobs initially opened the restaurant in Mendocino County in 2011 and subsequently moved it to the Monterey Peninsula. Starting with the Sweetwater oysters on the half shell from Tomales Bay, the Santa Cruz halibut with soba ramen and the bouillabaisse teeming with rock cod, squid, octopus and various shellfish, everything screamed freshness and deliciousness.

Karen thought that the bouillabaisse was the best she ever had.   The saffron rouille was amazing. The menu for the day even identified which captain and boat brought in the catch. The enthusiasm of the wait staff was evident, as they described the process of receiving the fish and processing it all by hand at the restaurant, even using the bones for broth.

Wild Fish                                                                                                                       

www.wild-fish.com                                                                                                                        

545 Lighthouse Ave, Pacific Grove CA 93950

We also found a couple of great places to grab a bite for lunch while out and about.

From Scratch Restaurant at The Barnyard Shopping Center in Carmel specializes in fresh, made-to-order breakfast and lunch entrees. As our server assured us when we were concerned about making too many substitutions, “Don’t worry. We make everything from scratch.” We actually ate here twice, enjoying the Big Sur Omelet and BLAT Sandwich the first time and the Club Sandwich and perhaps the best patty melt anywhere per Michael when we went the second time.

From Scratch Restaurant       www.fromscratchrestaurant.com                                                                                           

3626 The Barnyard, Carmel, California 93923

Finally, we found delicious food served by really nice people at C U Sushi in The Crossroads Shopping Center, also in Carmel. We enjoyed the salmon sashimi salad, gyoza, bulgogi bibimbab and the eel roll. The service was very quick and friendly and everything was made fresh.

C U Sushi                                                                       

www.thecrossroadscarmel.com/dining/cu-sushi/                                                                      

173 Crossroads Blvd, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA 93923

The Monterey Peninsula has a wealth of excellent wineries and wonderful restaurants all within half an hour or so of each other.   The area is beautiful, peaceful and relaxing. We had a fabulous time and are looking forward to coming back to the area to explore and have new adventures.  There is something for everybody from Michelin restaurants to up and coming winemakers.

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers

Perlises Pick – J Dusi Winery’s Positive Signs for the Future

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We all know the future is uncertain. But as wine writers, our job is primarily to not focus on the world issues of the day but to write about wine, wineries, vineyards, etc. for the devoted readers of Eve’s Wine 101.

Sometimes, though, a bit of news comes across our desks that will impact the future, maybe only in a small way, that causes us to smile.

Any regular readers of the Perlises’ articles are sure to know that we are big fans of the wines of J Dusi Winery in Paso Robles, ever since we met Janell Dusi and tasted that first vintage from her family’s historic vineyard. So we were very pleased to receive an email that read, in part:

“Historically, certain practices for wine packaging were thought to be necessary, including the use of wax or capsules on the neck of a wine bottle.

In reality, capsules and wax enclosures are purely packaging.  Although we have used these in the past to create a polished and complete package, it serves no purpose beyond the way the bottle looks. 

As we take a step forward in sustainability, starting with the 2020 Vintages we have eliminated both wax and capsules. You’ll find the vintage printed on the end of each cork. Easy to locate the vintage you want, and no more foil to cut or messy wax to deal with!”

Janell clarified that the change applies to their Paper Street label for the 2020 vintage and will impact the J Dusi label starting with the 2021 vintage. She added that “this is our first step in creating a more sustainable package for our customers, but the same quality wine inside!”

This made us very happy. Wineries that are doing their part to reduce their carbon footprint and impact on the environment should be commended and rewarded with our purchases, especially quality wineries such as J Dusi.

The other news from J Dusi was included with their Fall 2022 Club shipment. In addition to the wine, there was a nice profile of Janell’s nephew, which Janell said we could share:

“In 2002, a boy was born, beginning the 5th generation of the Dusi Family. His parents named him Dante, in honor of his great grandfather Dante Sylvester Dusi.

Dante Michael Dusi grew up in the middle of our grape growing family, deeply rooted in the wine industry. He was surrounded by vineyards, big trucks, heavy equipment, and the family businesses.

From infancy, it was grapes and trucks that Dante loved. He spent many days riding in a car seat beside his dad, Michael, in a Peterbilt truck, transporting grapes up and down the state of California. As soon as Dante’s feet could touch the pedals, he was moving semi-trucks and driving tractors.

He understood the complex logistics of the truck yard: dispatching trucks, keeping them clean, and helping the drivers park their trucks perfectly, at the end of the work day.

Throughout Dante’s childhood, he had an eye on every aspect of vineyard work. At two years old, he was already participating in harvest, picking leaves out of the freshly picked grapes. When his Auntie Nell began making wine under her own label, J Dusi, Dante helped Janell pick those grapes.

Today, Dante is nineteen years old. He has acquired skills beyond his years by working beside his grandfather, Mike. He is learning about the soil, plants, rootstock, grape varietals, as well as the care of our vines. Dante is taking classes, studying innovative techniques, hoping to drive the family farming practice forward.

Dante is a hard working young man who is proud to carry on the legacy of the Dusi family. He proudly shares his great-grandfather’s name, Dante Dusi.”

It sounds like the future of the Dusi family vineyards is in great hands. We look forward to meeting Dante Michael Dusi one day.Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers

Perlises Pick From Summer 2022 Wines

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With the hot summer of 2022 at an end, we thought we’d share with our readers some of our favorite wines from the last few months.

2021 Clos Solene La Rose – a blend of 56% Grenache, 26% Mourvedre, 17% Cinsault and 10% Syrah, all from the Adelaida district of Paso Robles and all farmed specifically for rosé. Light and very refreshing with fragrant citrus notes and a medium to long finish. A vegetarian pizza topped with fresh bitter arugula made a great match on a hot summer night. The note on the label from winemaker Guillaume Fabre adds to the mood: “As if he was presenting her with a rose, my father would give my mother a glass of wine of his Rosé.  He liked to look at her examining the color and smell.  At each of the sips, his mind would start thinking, I love you a little, a lot, passionately…” www.clossolene.com

2021 Benom L’essor – another rosé made by Guillaume Fabre, this time at the Paso Robles winery he owns with his brother Arnaud. This unusual blend of 78% Grenache and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon is very light and fresh with Meyer Lemon notes and an impression of a slight sweetness on its long finish.  A light dinner of a salad of arugula/tangerine/Boursin cheese with San Pasqual dressing (Italian balsamic vinaigrette champagne-style dressing made by Valencia’s Marston’s Restaurant) and chicken salad/celery/nuts/raisin spread on crostini was a very enjoyable combination.

www.benomwines.com

2021 Idlewild Flora and Fauna Rosé – Sam Bilbro is the youngest of the Bilbro Brothers making wine in Sonoma County [the other two are Scot at Marietta Cellars and Jake at Limerick Lane] and he has chosen to focus on Italian varietals. This blend of 41% Nebbiolo, 30% Dolcetto, and 29% Barbera along with just a touch of Grignolino, primarily from Fox Hill Vineyard in Mendocino County, has plum notes and a slightly sweet and well-rounded finish. This paired perfectly with freshly made Tagliatelle Bolognese pasta with a slow braised pork ragu, basil and grated 18-month aged parmesan cheese.

www.idlewildwines.com

2021 Bedrock Ode to Lulu Rosé – Bedrock’s annual homage to the late Lulu Peyraud of Bandol, this blend of Mataro/Mourvèdre from the historic Pato and Evangelho Vineyards in Contra Costa County along with Cinsault and Grenache from Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley may be Bedrock’s best rosé yet. With notes of peach and persimmon and a long, dry finish, this was a great pairing with chicken siu mai, pork potstickers, and baby bok toy with garlic.

2019 Bedrock Sauvignon Blanc Judge Family Vineyard – this might be our favorite SB we’ve had so far from Bedrock. Big, bright, ripe melon notes with a full mouth feel on the finish and a dinner of chicken thighs marinated in pureed eggplant/bell pepper/tomato sauce with haricot verts was delicious. www.bedrockwineco.com

2021 Keplinger Rosé – while superstar winemaker Helen Keplinger may be better known for her delicious reds, this 35% Grenache, 35% Mourvedre, 30% Syrah blend from the famed Shake Ridge Vineyard in Amador County is an outstanding rosé with tangerine notes, a medium finish and a big rounded mouth feel. A simple meal of a small Caesar salad, shrimp cocktail, followed by mangoes dipped in chocolate hummus was all we needed.www.keplingerwines.com

2021 Bodega Garzón Albariño Reserva – yes, we do drink wines from outside California, sometimes far outside. Uruguay’s Bodega Garzón has garnered so many accolades from respected critics and publications that it is impossible to count, including being named the 2018 New World Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast. From their website: “Located between Brazil and Argentina, Uruguay stands as one of the most prominent countries in the Latin American winegrowing world. Its location – on the same latitude as Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, and its temperate climate favor growing grapevines throughout its territory.” We appreciated this wine’s Meyer lemon notes, full and intense mouthfeel and gentle, long finish and enjoyed it with roasted branzino with a panko and parsley crust and roasted brussel sprouts. www.bodegagarzon.com/en/

2013 Carlisle Syrah – finally, lest you think we have forsaken red wines entirely, we loved this 100% Syrah from Rosella’s Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County. From an area known more for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Carlisle sources these grapes to make a delicious wine with plum and raisin notes with a long, luscious finish.   It married well with a rare hanger steak and zucchini latkes. www.carlislewinery.com

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick: Visiting Santa Rosa and Healdsburg

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If you are reading Eve’s Wine 101, the main reason for you to visit the Santa Rosa/Healdsburg area in Sonoma County is presumably for the wine. While we are not going to pick an absolutely favorite wine region, we’d be hard-pressed to select an area that we enjoy more.

We will name a favorite place to stay though. Vintners Resort in Santa Rosa tops our list. We’ve watched it grow from its originally named Vintners Inn under the watchful eyes of owner Rhonda Carano and GM Percy Brandon. Sadly for us, Percy has just moved on to become General Manager of the Allison Inn & Spa in Newburg, Oregon. We were fortunate enough to see him one last time to say our goodbyes. Who knows, maybe it is time for us to report on Oregon wine country? In the meantime, as Eve Wine 101 has already reported, Brian Sommer has been named General Manager and we look forward to meeting with him on our next visit.

Fortunately, our favorite restaurant in Santa Rosa is on the Vintners Resort property. John Ash and Company opened in 1980[!] and was the first Sonoma County restaurant to introduce the concept of cooking with seasonal, locally sourced foods and produce – AKA wine country cuisine. The original chef was, of course, John Ash and the current chef Tom Schmidt is continuing the concept.

The atmosphere is of an elegant country inn, with views of the vineyards on the resort property. Choose from indoor or al fresco dining on the open-air terrace with available heaters if needed.  The staff is very knowledgeable and attentive, yet unobtrusive. From our appetizers of Tuna Poke and Beef Carpaccio to our entrees of Bone-In Pork Chop [which Karen said was the best she ever had] and Duck Breast, everything flowed seamlessly. As did our wine, starting with glasses of Roederer Estate Brut and then our BYOB 2013 Bedrock Winery Zinfandel from the Carlisle Vineyard. We were too full for dessert, but not too full for the complimentary dark chocolate truffles.

A little further north in Healdsburg is a wonderful restaurant that somehow we had not managed to visit on previous trips to the area, even though it opened back in 2015: Valette, which is only a block away from the Healdsburg Square. Brothers Dustin Valette and Aaron Garzini grew up in Geyserville and envisioned working together using local Sonoma products. Dustin got his culinary training at the CIA in New York and then worked at Bouchon in Napa and Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, among others. Aaron worked as sommelier and front of the house at John Ash [see above!] and at Rustic Restaurant, Francis Ford Coppola’s restaurant at his Geyserville winery. General Manager Harry Bryan recently returned to Valette from a stint at Timber Cove Resort, bringing with him over two decades of industry experience.

From top-tier professionals on down through the entire team, Valette is in a very select group of restaurants where it is clear that everybody wants to be there and enjoys what they do.

With our appetizers of Ahi Poke and Fruit Compote Special with Foie Gras, we enjoyed glasses of the 2020 Valette Rose of Pinot Noir. Yes, they do have their own wine label to complement the selections on their amazing wine list – this rose is made by Bob Cabral [formerly with Williams Selyem, among others] and was delicious. We brought a bottle of 2013 Bedrock Winery Zinfandel from the Bedrock Vineyard to accompany our entrees of Crispy Skinned Steelhead Trout for Karen and Pan Seared Alaskan Halibut for Michael. All the dishes were wonderful, both visually and gustatorily. And this time, we did save room for the peanut and chocolate dessert, “It’s Not A ‘Snickers Bar’, which topped off the evening.

We highly recommended Valette for a special occasion or just to make any occasions special.

Finally, if you find yourself out and about on a Sunday, Monday or Wednesday morning before the wineries open, pay a visit to the Luther Burbank Home & Gardens in downtown Santa Rosa. We really enjoyed strolling the grounds of the home and gardens of this world-renowned pioneering horticulturist who experimented with plants for more than 50 years. We took the easy, self-guided tour of gardens ranging from crops, fruits, herbs, flowers, wildlife habit and cactus with informative displays, pictures and mini quiz boxes.  Check out the pic of the spineless cactus as big as a small house!

Vintners Resort and John Ash & Company

www.vintnersresort.com

4350 Barnes Road

Santa Rosa, CA 95403

Valette

www.valettehealdsburg.com

344 Center Street

Healdsburg, CA 95448

Luther Burbank Home & Gardens

www.lutherburbank.org

204 Santa Rosa Ave

Santa Rosa, CA 95404

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick: Emmitt-Scorsone Wines

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We were very much interested in visiting “new to us” wineries on our trip to the Santa Rosa / Healdsburg area, and Emmitt-Scorsone definitely fit that requirement. Heading west from the town of Healdsburg into the Dry Creek Valley, we immediately encountered the change in scenery that is so common to wine regions. The road to the winery soon became only one lane in parts and we were thankful that the only car that we encountered heading toward us was small enough that neither had to execute any complicated maneuvers [like backing up!].

Still, we managed to arrive a little early and had a chance to talk to the owner of the property, David Merrill. He spoke fondly of his desire to just focus on tending to the grapes and his pleasure at having the Emmitt-Scorsone winery on site to handle winemaking duties, both from his estate grapes (the property, known as the Vinegrove, is about 32 acres with 7+ planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Petite Sirah) as well the ones the winery owners source from other areas.

We sat on the back patio – in a land of spectacular views, this is a great one – and were soon joined by winery co-owner and co-winemaker, Michael Scorsone. Michael became interested in the wine world early, moving to Napa after first graduating from the CIA in New York and then UNLV. He worked at wineries in Napa, Italy and New Zealand, eventually becoming assistant winemaker at Failla under Ehren Jordan [we’re big fans of Ehren from his days at Turley]. Michael then consulted for Fred Schrader of Schrader Cellars and then moved on to become head winemaker at Adobe Road for several years.

Michael’s assistant winemaker at Adobe was Palmer Emmitt. Palmer had a very different path to the wine world, having been an international level racing skier and then having a ten-year career working in feature film production. During that time, Palmer developed a passion for wine, eventually achieving advanced sommelier certifications from the WSET. He moved to Northern California to attend Sonoma State’s wine MBA program. As mentioned, he worked with Michael at Adobe and they made the jump in 2015 to start Emmitt-Scorsone.    

Emmitt-Scorsone actually has three labels.

Judge Palmer is named after Palmer’s grandfather. The focus of this label is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon from prestigious Napa Valley vineyards and relatively undiscovered Sonoma County sites as well as classic grape varieties like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

Domenica Amato is named after Michael’s grandmother – her immigration picture is on the label – and focuses on Rhone and Italian varietals.

Finally, the Emmitt-Scorsone brand is more value oriented and provides a good entry point to discovering the winery.

Michael asked if we had an interest in white wines or just wanted to focus on reds. If you’ve read our articles at all in the last couple of years you know what our answer was. Michael then asked “do you like getting a little funky with your whites?” We said “heck yeah” and we were ready to taste:

2019 Domenica Amato Vermentino – from the Mahoney vineyard in Carneros; part of the vineyard is in Sonoma and part in Napa. The wine spent 10 months in Italian clay amphorae. Meyer lemon notes, crisp medium finish with a kiss of saltiness, reminiscent of the ocean air.

2020 Domenica Amato Viognier – from the Salomon Vineyard near Kenwood in the Sonoma Valley. This wine spent ten months in neutral oak barrels. With a tart peach nose, this wine is luscious and rich and had a medium finish.

2019 Domenica Amato Gusto Bianco – a complex blend of 48% Viognier, 47% Grenache Blanc [both from Sonoma County] and 5% Fiano all the way from Clarksburg in Yolo County. It was light and bright with a tangerine nose.

2016 Domenica Amato Roussanne from the Bennett Valley.  An Orange Wine [i.e. skin contact white] that was interesting in all the good ways. Only made two barrels, very complex and fresh.

2019 Domenica Amato Barbera from the Dry Creek Valley. Cherry notes with bright clean fruit. Classic bramble notes but with finesse and elegance.  Very nice.

2018  Domenica Amato Gusto Rosso Estate Red blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petite Sirah, showcasing all the estate vineyard has to offer. Big and bright from the Grenache with a medium finish. Good rusticity with a very slight gaminess that makes you want another taste.

2018 Judge Palmer Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Terrace — the winery makes a few Cabs, this one is from their estate vineyard.  Just a couple of barrels made of this. The wine was concentrated and intense with great depth and a long finish.

2019 Domenica Amato Grenache Estate – 100% Grenache from the estate. A little light in color but not in bouquet or flavor with plenty of clean red fruit. Grenache as it should be made with no attempt to over-extract it. Delicious.

In wrapping up our visit, we asked Michael what he wanted people to know about Emmitt-Scorsone Wines. He responded that it was important that people realize that the winery is just these two guys with a passion for wine. They said to each other “let’s make wine” and started with only a couple of barrels. Production is small, just about 3,000 cases and they still do everything by themselves. Their passion comes through in every bottle.

Emmitt-Scorsone Wines

www.emmittscorsone.com

1830 Jameson Rd, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick: Soda Rock Winery

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A trip to the Healdsburg area wouldn’t be complete without visiting Antoine Favero. Antoine is a winemaker for several of the Wilson Family Wineries. We’ve met with him a few times at Mazzocco Sonoma in Dry Creek Valley [with a focus on amazing Zinfandels] and at Jaxon Keys in Mendocino County [love those Rhone varietals] but we felt we should expand our reporting so we agreed to meet at Soda Rock Winery in Alexander Valley, which specializes in Bordeaux varietals.

Pulling up to Soda Rock Winery should be very impressive for any first-time visitor. It sure was for us. Visible from the road is the towering figure of Lord Snort, who is directly in front of the sadly burnt-out husk of the original winery and tasting room that was destroyed in the 2019 Kincade fire. The winery building was about 150 years old and was the original site of the Alexander Valley general store and post office. Ken and Diane Wilson purchased the property in the year 2000.

By now, you might be wondering who is Lord Snort, whose photo is included with this article. Lord Snort is a 20,000 steel sculpture created by local artist, Bryan Tedrick. This is the second of his sculptures at a Wilson family winery property, being preceded by the Coyote sculpture at Wilson Winery in the Dry Creek Valley.

Lord Snort actually made his debut at Burning Man – check out this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=edNJ_uGzlmA – and the rumor is he will be there again.

We arrived at Soda Rock a little before Antoine got there and were greeted warmly by tasting room hostess, Madison. She gave us the option of tasting in the refurbished barn or outside among the trees right next to the vineyard and we chose the latter. Although Antoine had planned an afternoon of red wines for us, Madison poured us a couple of whites to get us started.  She also brought over some cheeses and charcuterie to nibble on, which are available for purchase with your tasting.

Kenneth Carl Sparkling Brut – blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a kiss of Pinot Meunier.  Notes of green apple, ripe pear.  Made at the Jaxon Keys winery in Mendocino but available at all of the Wilson family wineries. 

2019 Chardonnay Reserve West Soda Rock – Alexander Valley, 100% Chardonnay. Notes of lemon, blood orange and sweet honey.

By now, Antoine had arrived. It was such a pleasure to see him again. Not only is he a great winemaker but the passion he exudes for his craft is infectious. It had clearly rubbed off on Madison who continued to pour the wines and share her thoughts on them.

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Twisted Rail – Alexander Valley near Cloverdale   Named for a 2011 abandoned railroad tunnel fire that was originally built in 1898, this wine is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot.  Medium color and tannin, big and bright with notes of cigar and black cherry and a dry, clean finish.

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Five Star General – Alexander Valley.   95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Merlot.  The best of the barrels for each varietal go into this.  Chocolate, blue and black berry notes with supple and subtle tannins.

2018 Malbec Reserve Runway – Dry Creek Valley near the Mazzocco winery. 77% Malbec, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tangy and deep, but brightened up by the Cabernet.  Cherry, cedar and leather notes. 

2019 Cabernet Franc Warm Springs Ranch – Dry Creek Valley near Lake Sonoma, the wine is   93% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. These vines are at 1700 ft elevation; they get stressed from the high elevation, but are cooled by the nearby afternoon marine breezes. Fruit forward and very well rounded.

2019 Meritage Alexander Valley – Sonoma County. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot. Notes of dark plum fruit along with chewiness from the Cab Franc, with a full mouthfeel and a long finish.

2019 Lord Snort – Sonoma County. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot   We might have expected a wine named after a steel sculpture of a wild boar to be frivolous, but we should have known better. This was a serious wine, with lots of depth from the Merlot

2019 Zinfandel Wentworth – Sonoma County. It wouldn’t have been a visit with Antoine without a great Zin; this one is 75% Zinfandel, 20% Primitivo and 5% Petite Sirah. It is named after Fred Wentworth, the original owner of the Alexander Valley general store that housed the Soda Rock Winery before the fire.  Tart, fruit-forward, dark fruit, chocolate and vanilla notes, tinge of nutmeg and ginger, herbaceous.

2019 Primitivo Lytton Station – Alexander Valley. 96% Primitivo, 4% Petite Sirah. Persian cucumber nose with vanilla and cinnamon notes, refreshing and cool.

We really enjoyed all of these wines and highly recommend visiting Soda Rock Winery. There is so much local history in the refurbished barn saved from the fire that we found interesting.  It made for a leisurely wine tasting afternoon.  We would be remiss if we did not remind our readers of the Children of Vineyard Workers Scholarship Fund created by Ken and Diane Wilson in 2002 in collaboration with the Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Per the website, this fund has distributed more than $500,000 in scholarships. Antoine administers this program and was excited to tell us that one of their recipients had just gotten accepted into Yale. Wow, talk about life-changing!

Soda Rock Winery

www.sodarockwinery.com

8015 CA-128, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Please note there is also a tasting room in downtown Healdsburg:

409A Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick: Grand Cru Custom Crush

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Custom crushes provide vital resources to boutique winemakers who don’t have their own winery facilities yet desire to have access to state of the art equipment and support. Grand Cru Custom Crush in Windsor, California takes this one step further by enabling their client wineries to offer their customers an opportunity for an amazing tasting experience.

Recently, we had the opportunity to visit with Nicole Yasinsac, Grand Cru’s Hospitality and Events Director. She gave us a tour of Grand Cru as well as providing tastes of a selection of their clients’ wines, all while sharing the story of the facility.

Robert Morris, former president of Punchdown Cellars in Santa Rosa (which was formerly Copain Custom Crush) and his wife Erin teamed up with Erin Brooks and Todd Gottula of Ernest Vineyards to open Grand Cru in 2017. The building design was inspired by the historic Boradorri Garage in Cayucos, with other touches paying homage to Robert being a reserve firefighter for the city of Healdsburg.

The production facility is 30,000 square feet with a capability of producing about 25,000 total cases annually. Winery clients are varied, which helps to ensure different picking and production schedules. Besides barrels, concrete eggs, sandstone amphorae and urns are also available, as are crush pads and bottling, as well as a lab.

We’ve been to custom crushes where tasting with the winemaker can be somewhat of an adventure, maybe just one step away from an OSHA report. The tasting salons at Grand Cru are stylish, with the bay doors available to be open to allow for as much fresh air as one would want. Gabriel Glas wine glasses help to maintain the elegance.

And the wines are no slouches either. Nicole guided us through a tasting of the following –

Edaphos by Ernest:  2021 Picpoul from Lodi’s Prie Vineyard.  Ernest Winery is owned by Todd and Erin Gottula, co-owners of Grand Cru and is named after Todd’s grandfather Ernest.  The Edaphos label focuses on small lots of lesser known grape varietals. The wine was subtle with an impression of a hint of sweetness and bright light citrus and a lengthy finish.

Ernest: 2019 Aligote from the Henry David Vineyard in Bennett Valley. The “other” white Burgundy, somewhat similar to Chardonnay.  Light with some grassy notes and hints of arugula.

Bucher: 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from the Bucher Estate vineyard in the Russian River Valley. The Buchers added vineyards to their 360 acre dairy farm starting in 1997. The wine was fresh and bright with tropical notes. Very classic Sauvignon Blanc.

Black Kite: 2018 Pinot Noir from the Gap’s Crown Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast.  The co-founders are Tom and Rebecca Birdsall along with Rebecca’s parents, Donald and Maureen Green. The label named after Rebecca’s father favorite bird.  Notes of dark cherry and a pleasing light finish, smooth and silky on palate.

Terminim: 2018 Syrah from the Alder Springs Vineyard in Mendocino. This is a collaboration between François Villard of France’s Northern Rhone Valley and Donald Patz of Patz and Hall Winery in Sonoma fame. Very dark and rich with black olive notes. Delicious wine. 

Saxon Brown: 2017 Zinfandel, Stonewall Block, Sonoma County. Owner/winemaker Jeff Gaffner was with Chateau St Jean and started Saxon Brown in 1997.  Dense style but not overpowering, lush ripe fruit with lavender notes.

We want to thank Nicole so much for spending time with us. Please visit Grand Cru Custom Crush on your next visit to the Santa Rosa/Windsor/Healdsburg area.  It is a great multi-brand experience of the outstanding wines made at the facility – private, personal, relaxed and intimate, showcasing many varietals and AVAs.

Grand Cru Custom Crush

www.grandcrucustomcrush.com

1200 American Way, Windsor, CA 95492Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.