Perlis Picks: Mazzocco Sonoma

June 24, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

When we last visited winemaker Antoine Favero at Mazzocco Sonoma, he made the gracious offer of taking us to visit a vineyard or two on our next visit.

Not one to forget that kind of opportunity, I checked with Antoine as we planned our upcoming Dry Creek Valley trip. I almost expected him to be too busy, as he is not only winemaker for Mazzocco but also for Jaxon Keys and Soda Rock, as well as sharing winemaking duties with Diane Wilson at deLorimier. But Antoine was true to his word and suggested an excursion to Rockpile.

Antoine Favero of Mazzocco Sonoma Winery at Rockpile Ranch

I’ve loved wines from the Rockpile AVA for some time and have always considered it a very special place, but have never visited, until now. I was surprised to learn that this area only obtained its official AVA status in 2002, as it seems like I’ve been drinking Rockpile wines for longer than that.

That being said, Karen and I hopped into the Wilson Artisan Wineries tour bus and, with Antoine at the wheel, we drove to the far western reaches of the Dry Creek Valley and into the Rockpile AVA.

Our first stop was Florence Ranch. Antoine, who gets grapes from this vineyard, explained that Jack Florence Sr. was one of the growers who helped to spearhead the recognition of the Rockpile AVA. The AVA is over 15,000 acres, but less than 200 are planted.

We then continued deep into the wilderness of Rockpile until we reached the Mazzocco Rockpile Ranch property, which is only 800 acres with 25 of them planted. Along the way, we marveled at how difficult it must be to just get the ripened grapes back to the winery, given the ruggedness of the terrain.

Finally arriving at Rockpile Ranch, Antoine needed to let us into the locked gateway to the property. When we got to the vineyard, it was easy to see why this vineyard was kept under lock and key. I love visiting vineyards – where the magic starts – but certain ones seem more magical that others. And this one definitely ranks very high on that list, capped off by Antoine opening a bottle of the 2014 Mazzocco Rockpile Zinfandel for us to enjoy at the vineyard from which it came. Perfection!

Alas, while we have the hard job of writing about wine, Antoine has the much harder job of actually making the stuff. And he had to get back to work! So, he drove us back to the winery and left us in the hands of the very capable, knowledgeable and hospitable Mazzocco tasting room staff.

Much like Mazzocco’s sister winery Wilson, there are so many great wines on the list to try, again mostly Zins, some Petites and a few others as well. My notes say that some of my favorites were…

2014 Zinfandel Maria

2014 Zinfandel Rockpile Reserve [of course!]

2013 Zinfandel Warm Springs Ranch

And, similar to Wilson Winery, Mazzocco has three wines in their premier collection, named after the vineyard manager, winemaker and proprietor, respectively. Truly outstanding special occasion wines that any Zin fan should seek out…

The Tres Amigos

2013 Zinfandel Juan Rodriguez Reserve

2013 Zinfandel Antoine Philippe Reserve

2013 Zinfandel Kenneth Carl Reserve

I can’t thank Antoine enough for taking the time to play tour guide for us. While that kind of experience might not happen often, anyone can [and should] visit Mazzocco and experience their wonderful wines. Definitely a must-visit for any wine lover, especially Zin fans.

Mazzocco Sonoma

1400 Lytton Springs Road

Healdsburg, CA 95448

See photos of our visit with Antoine and others from our trip here: Sonoma County Series.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Wilson Artisan Wineries – Wilson Winery

June 17, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

Diane and Ken Wilson now own nine wineries that fall under the umbrella of Wilson Artisan Wineries. Truthfully, one could spend a day or two or three [depending on your speed and capacity] just visiting the Wilson-owned wineries and no others and have a wonderful wine country experience, traveling through Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Russian River Valley and Valley of the Moon, as well as into Mendocino County.

On our latest visit to Dry Creek Valley, Karen and I chose two – their eponymous Wilson Winery as well as a revisit to Mazzocco Sonoma.

Wilson Winery

We had some good reasons to want to visit Wilson Winery. I’ve tasted some of their wines before, and was looking forward to trying the latest releases of their legendary Zinfandels as well as their (perhaps even better) Petite Sirahs. But the factor that guaranteed we were going to visit was to see our good friend Rick Fraga.

Rick Fraga is the wine expert that I aspire to be. We met several years ago at a restaurant in Las Vegas and quickly bonded over wine. We always try to visit him every time we come to the Sonoma area. Now that he is wine educator at Wilson…well, that was even more of a reason for us to go there.

Lest you think the owners are hands-off investors in a winery vanity project, Diane Wilson has been winemaker at Wilson Winery since its inception. Founded in the early 1990s, the property’s history goes back a lot farther than that, with the winery facility operating in a restored and modernized century-old barn. The Wilsons are also growers in the Dry Creek Valley, naming their vineyards first after their children and later ones after their parents. Wilson Winery has nine estate vineyards as well as sourcing grapes from other high quality growers.

Diane’s winemaking skills were evident from the beginning as even with no formal training her wines immediately began racking up the accolades and awards, a trend that continues to this day. And she makes a lot of different wines at Wilson Winery.

As I said, a lot of different wines, mostly vineyard designate Zinfandels with a few Petite Sirahs and others mixed in for good measure. The order form lists a couple dozen or so wines to choose from. With so many delicious choices, it was really hard to pick favorites, but my notes indicate that I especially enjoyed the 2014 Botticelli Zinfandel, the 2013 Molly’s Reserve Petite Sirah and the 2013 Sydney Petite Sirah.

Diane also designates certain Zinfandel as “barrel select”, four, as a matter of fact. While they’d be considered for most of us as special occasion wines, the 2013 Diane Marie Reserve and the 2013 Victoria Johannah Reserve [the two we tasted] were both amazing full-bodied representatives of Zinfandel and worthy of a place in your cellar.

Wilson Winery

1960 Dry Creek Rd

Healdsburg, CA 95448

Perlis Picks: Comstock Wines

June 10, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

While I’ve known of and appreciated the great wines of the Dry Creek Valley for many years, it has only been over the last few that I’ve given them the attention they deserve. It is hard to believe that it took me so long, given the quality of the wines, especially those Zinfandels!

But I do owe a debt of gratitude to Kelly Comstock Ferris, General Manager of Comstock Wines for opening my eyes a little wider to appreciate what I’d been missing.

In early 2014, we first met Kelly at an event in Beverly Hills called Sonoma In The City, a traveling roadshow showcasing the AVAs of Sonoma County. I had just gotten there and I recall expressing to Kelly something to the effect that I was concerned that the event was going to be primarily showcasing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, given their popularity. She quickly put my mind at ease by pouring me the first release from her family’s winery – a 2012 Zinfandel that was just outstanding.

Kelly, after years of experience in the hospitality industry, took on the General Manager role of Comstock Wines when her family decided to go beyond farming the grapes from the vineyard they had owned since 2002 and start making wine.

Later that same year, we had the opportunity to visit with Kelly at the family’s gorgeous new state of the art winery. Actually, we met in the construction trailer and had fun tasting through the wines and seeing the plans for the soon to be built winery and tasting room. We left, promising to be back when construction was complete.

Well, somehow we managed to wait two years for our next visit. Was the wait worth it? You betcha.

Let me start by saying that if you have an opportunity to stay a night or two at a winery’s guest house, you should definitely do so. There is no better way to totally immerse oneself in wine country. And, you’d be hard pressed to find a better one than The Residence at Comstock Wines. My wife Karen and I had the pleasure of staying there on our visit.

Just a short walk to the winery tasting room, The Residence provides complete luxury while at the same time is a totally immersive wine country experience, right in the middle of the vineyard property. With four master suites, the huge house also has a full kitchen as well as a living room and media room. In one direction, you can drive to the gourmet restaurants in Healdsburg in just a few minutes and in the other direction are all the wineries and vineyards of the Dry Creek Valley.

And speaking of wineries, the winery at Comstock is a beautiful state of the art building wherein winemaker Chris Russi uses his years of experience and knowledge of the various Sonoma County AVAs and their varietals to “create wines that speak to regional uniqueness.” The winery’s capacity far exceeds Comstock’s production, so they also provide custom crush services to other wineries. I found especially cool the ability to cordon off various sections of the winery to provide for the unique needs of client wineries. And the automated punch-down equipment was really fascinating to me.

All that being said, at the end of the day it is all about the wine, right? Wonderful as this property is, if the wine isn’t up to the same standards…well, it would be hard for me to write this article.

Fortunately, the wines do live up to expectations. Some of our favorites were…

2015 Sauvignon Blanc / Dry Creek Valley – acid on Sauvignon Blanc can sometimes be overwhelming. Not here. Nice tropical fruit flavors with just enough zing on the palate.

2013 Chardonnay / Sonoma Coast – a really clean refreshing Chard. Nice bright flavors.

2013 Zinfandel / Dry Creek Valley and 2012 Zinfandel / Dry Creek Valley – had these side-by-side. The 2012 was the first Comstock wine I had tasted a couple of years early and was drinking beautifully. The 2013, which after our visit won a well-deserved Gold Medal at the 2017 San Francisco Chronicle Competition, was drinking great as well, showing off that wonderful Dry Creek Valley fruit.

2013 Zinfandel / Old Vine / Dry Creek Valley and 2013 Zinfandel / Old Vine / Russian River Valley – another side-by side tasting, and a really interesting one. At first, the upfront fruit of the Dry Creek Valley bottling really got my attention. As I continued to taste each wine, the RRV Zin showed a little more complexity and rewarded a little extra attention. You wouldn’t go wrong with either of these.

2013 Zinfandel / Rockpile – there are a lot of great sites for growing Zinfandel, but I have to say that the Rockpile AVA has always held a special place in my heart [and on my palate]. No surprise here, just a beautiful, jammy, delicious wine.

I’d like to say a big thank you to Erin Bush [Residence Manager & Winery Concierge] and Tracy Bidia [Hospitality Director] as well as everyone else we encountered at Comstock for making our stay so enjoyable. Sadly, Kelly Comstock Ferris was out of town so we were not able to connect this time, so we are really looking forward to seeing her on our next visit to Comstock.

Comstock Wines

1290 Dry Creek Road
Healdsburg, CA 95448

See photos of our visit to Comstock Wines and others from our trip here: Sonoma County Series.

Perlis Picks: Limerick Lane

June 3, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

Limerick Lane, while it has been around for a long time, really burst onto the scene when Jake Bilbro acquired the property in 2011 from the Collins Family. The story of the timing of the escrow closing coinciding with bringing in harvest and then the destemmer breaking down is legendary enough that the annual Limerick Lane Hail Mary Syrah is named after it.

Jake Bilbro of Limerick Lane Cellars.

Bursting on the scene is what happened though, with immediate recognition from major wine publications that continue to happen, maybe even at an accelerated rate. Not unexpectedly though, as making great wine seems to run in Jake’s family. Starting with Marietta Cellars, which Jake’s dad Chris named after his great aunt, Jake and his brother Scot have long worked with their father to make delicious affordable wines that everyone can enjoy, growing the winery to 100,000 cases.

[Jake’s other brother Sam, who also worked with father Chris, owns Idlewild Wines, devoted to Italian varietals – I am looking forward to visiting during my next trip to the area. Yet another brother, Lucas, did not get bitten by the wine bug and pursues his own passion as a ballet dancer.]

When Karen and I last visited with Jake, there were not many wines to taste. Success will do that, especially when you are a small winery of only about 4,000 cases. I asked Jake if he planned to expand production given the demand for the Limerick Lane wines, especially with his involvement in last year’s Historic Vineyard Society event and his obvious connection to the great vineyards the organization works to protect. Jake respond that he greatly respects the work that people like Mike Officer of Carlisle and Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock are doing with regard to preserving and sourcing from California great old vineyards. However, notwithstanding the fact that these guys all sell a certain amount of grapes to each other, showcasing the special nature of the Limerick Lane vineyard and the wines it produces is his driving passion and that will be the focus of his time, at least for the foreseeable future.

The vineyards actually consists of fourteen blocks, the oldest dating back to 1910. The Zinfandel blocks are true field blends that also include Alicante Bouschet, Peloursin, Negrette, Mourvedre, Carignane, Syrah and Petite Sirah.

The Russian River Valley sprawls over a large area, and Limerick Lane is at the Northeast corner of it, with hills providing southern and western exposure. The soil is clay and rock, with the clay holding water and the rock providing space for the vines to dig deep. Cool nights and foggy mornings keep the acidity high and the wines vibrant while the warm afternoons allow the development of intense flavors.

Initially planted by the Del Fava family, the property was later purchased by the Collins Brothers in the 1970s. When Mike Collins was ready to sell, he wanted the property to be in good hands, which is why he approached Jake Bilbro. Escrow closed just the day before harvest in 2011. And, to complicate matters, as harvest was wrapping up a few weeks later, the winery’s destemmer broke, with 7 tons of Syrah still to crush. With rain on the way, Jake threw a “Hail Mary” and dumped the grapes, stems attached, into two open top fermenters and hoped for the best.

Personally, I love the complexity that stem inclusion can bring, especially to Syrah. And the Hail Mary bottlings from Limerick Lane live up to this trait. From that year on, Jake has made a Syrah labeled Hail Mary to pay homage to that first vintage. We got to taste the 2014 during our visit and it was great as always.

We also got to taste a few other wines during our visit…

2014 Russian River Zinfandel – from the original vines planted over a hundred years ago. Not your ordinary Zin, the field blend aspect makes this is a complex delicious wine.

2014 Syrah Grenache – it was the 2011 version of this that I raved about along with the RR Zin when I attended Sonoma In The City back a couple of years ago. This continued that tradition.

1910 Block Zin [2014] – You’ll rarely see specific tasting notes from me, but in this case it was just too obvious; it was just like fresh blueberries! Wonderful wine!

2014 Rocky Knoll Zinfandel – another field blend, with Mourvedre and Petite Sirah that give this wine wonderful structure.

These wines get very high scores from the wine publications. Production is small and the wines are very hard to find outside of the tasting room or the mailing list.

I asked Jake what he would like people to know about Limerick Lane. This would have been a perfect opportunity to talk about their great wines and brag about all their great scores and accolades. Instead, he said “Tell them that we’re really nice people. We’re small so we can’t have a lot of people stop by all at once so visitors have to make appointments. But we really do want to see them.”

Go see them. There should be new releases to taste, but don’t wait too long.

Limerick Lane

1023 Limerick Lane
Healdsburg, CA 95448

See photos of our visit to Limerick Lane and others from our trip here: Sonoma County Series.

Perlis Picks: Elevating Zinfandel 2017

May 27, 2017 by Michael Perlis 1 Comment

A few days prior to attending Ian Blackburn’s wineLA Elevating Zinfandel event with my wife Karen, I happened across a video that had been posted on Facebook by ZAP [Zinfandel Advocates and Producers – the organization “dedicated to advancing public knowledge of and appreciation for American Zinfandel and its unique place in our culture and history”] featuring Joel Peterson, founder of Ravenswood winery and often called “the Godfather of Zinfandel.” Joel really gave a great explanation of why Zinfandel is considered America’s Heritage grape, given that it truly found its greatness here in California versus, for example, Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux and Pinot Noir in Burgundy.

This greatness was evident at Elevating Zinfandel, where more than a dozen of California’s best producers of Zinfandel showed up to La Brea Bakery to pour their wines for a group of very appreciative tasters.

VIP attendees got to start their tasting an hour early as well as getting an opportunity to taste some special wines reserved just for them. [Obligatory note – when a VIP option is available, always go for it!]

The wineries pouring:

Beekeeper Vineyards

Bedrock Wine Co

Bella Vineyards

Robert Biale Vineyards

Brown Estate

Carol Shelton Wines

Gamba Vineyards and Winery

J Dusi Wines

Mauritson Wines

Ottimino

Peter Franus Wine Co

Quivera Vineyards

Seghesio Family Vineyards

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards

There were absolutely no losers here. Every winery on this list was pouring some outstanding Zinfandels. I could easily end this article here by just saying you should go buy wines from any of these producers and you will be happy. But, that would make for a pretty short article. So, let me expand on some wines that really stood out for me.

When people in Southern California think about Zin, especially those of us in Northern LA County, Paso Robles may come to mind more than any other region. At this tasting, Paso was represented by J Dusi. I knew that Janell Dusi would be up to this task, having made wine from her family’s Dante Dusi vineyard for about 10 years now. The Dusi Vineyard is one of my favorites anywhere for Zinfandel [not just Paso], so I was happy when Janell started making a small amount of wine from the family property, later expanding into other varietals as well. The 2014 Dante Dusi Vineyard Zinfandel and the 2014 Escandalosa blend of Zinfandel, Syrah and Mourvedre were two of my favorite wines of the evening.

The rest of the wineries were based farther North – in Napa Valley and Sonoma County. Since people tend to think of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and Sonoma Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, I thought it was great that the Zinfandels from these areas were being highlighted. Here are few of our favorites…

Bedrock Wine Co. & Under The Wire – winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson [son of the aforementioned Joel Peterson], along with partner Chris Cottrell, has been making wine since he was 5-years old [although he started out with Pinot just to piss off his dad]. The 2013 Under The Wire Bedrock Vineyard Sparkling Old Vine Zinfandel was stellar, and the two 2015 Heritage [historic vineyards – field blends] wines being poured – the Evangelho [Contra Costa County] and Pagani [Sonoma Valley] were great examples of what I think Morgan does best.

Ian Blackburn’s Beekeeper Cellars has been getting well deserved rave reviews. Based in Dry Creek Valley, my favorite was the 2014 Secret Stones, Madrone Spring Vineyard, Rockpile, Sonoma County. Not surprising – Rockpile is a favorite AVA of ours; more wines from there will appear later in this article.

Another Dry Creek Valley winery, Bella Vineyards, impressed us with their Westphall, Rockpile, Sonoma County 2013.

We first tasted Brown Estate Vineyards Zinfandel several years ago at a restaurant in Las Vegas called Rosemary’s. We ended up ordering a second bottle, it was so good. Sadly, Rosemary’s is gone but Brown Estate is still making great wine in Napa Valley, especially for us the Napa Valley, Chiles Valley District 2015.

Not sure where to begin with Carol Shelton Wines. We were just really impressed with her whole lineup. Based in Santa Rosa, she sources from various places. Nice of her to share a 2014 Carignane [loved that she snuck that one in] along with her Zins. And a big shout out for making a Zin from Southern California’s Cucamonga Valley.

When I first tasted the Zins from Gamba Vineyard and Winery many years ago, they seemed too big, even for me. I’m happy to report that they are doing it right. Luscious lip-smacking wines across the board from this Windsor based winery.

You can’t really talk about Dry Creek Valley, especially Rockpile, without mentioning Mauritson Wines. Clay Mauritson was pouring a few wines – favorite by a nose was the Rockpile Ridge Vineyard.

Ottimino is a new winery to me. Really cool to taste a 2001 Zin from them as well as their current releases. Based in Sebastopol in Sonoma County, the 2014 Ottimino Estate Russian River Valley Zin was great.

Robert Biale Vineyards – an old favorite of ours. I did not make it back to their table after the VIP portion of the event, but the 2009 Black Chicken Zinfandel that winemaker Tres Goetting had poured me at that time was excellent.

Turley Wine Cellars – while many people associate Turley with Paso, and rightfully so, the winery is actually headquartered in Napa Valley. Christina Turley was on hand to pour a few of the winery’s delicious Zins. I’ve made no secret of how much I like this winery. This time, the 2015 Duarte Contra Costa County earned top marks for me.

I apologize for the wineries I missed mentioning. As I said, all of the wineries represented are worthy of your attention.

Big thank you to La Brea Bakery for hosting the event and serving some delicious food.

Thanks to Ian Blackburn and his great staff at wineLA for putting on another great wine tasting. Check out his website and sign up so you don’t miss anything.

Perlis Picks: The Oaks Grille at TPC Valencia

May 13, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

For as long as I can remember, the Santa Clarita Valley has been referred to as “chain restaurant hell” [okay, maybe that was me saying that]. With the independent restaurants that have opened in our valley in the last several years, it is getting harder and harder to make that joke.

And now, having somehow gotten myself and Karen invited to the “influencers” preview at the NEW Oaks Grille Restaurant at TPC Valencia [it helps having Eve Bushman as my boss], I can safely say that the SCV has moved to the restaurant “heaven” category.

Before getting into the details of what we tried that evening, let me share with you some information that was provided to us by Troy Hooper, Director of Operations of Tournament Players Club Valencia…

The Oaks Grille (along with the Banquet venues and special events) is open to the public – so come one and come all!

The menu is “seasonally refreshed.” Produce comes from regionally local growers and proteins are “Farm to Fork” – they know at all times where their meats and fishes come from.

Products are certified sustainably sourced. Executive Chef Peyton Poulsen is a winner of SCV Ultimate Chef and the wine list has been put together by a Sommelier with 25 years of experience.

Now, onto the menu for the evening, where we got to sample a small selection of what you have in store when you visit the Oaks Grille…

Starters

Salmon Poke – house cured salmon tossed with tomatoes, cilantro, onion and jalapeno, finished with Hawaiian chili pepper water, toasted macadamia nuts and red sea salt.

House Bacon – thick cut house made bacon, beer battered and flash fried, served with pancake fritters and drizzled with a blackberry gastrique and Vermont maple syrup.

Salads

“Garden” Salad – mizuna, blue cheese crème, shaved candy cane beets and pomegranate seeds, tossed in a hazelnut vanilla vinaigrette and garnished with edible flowers.

Smoked Ahi Salad – cold smoked ahi with tatsoi, pickled mushrooms, cucumber and roasted macadamia nuts, toasted in a lilikoi vinaigrette with a hard-cooked egg.

Entrees

Vegetable Sacchetti – truffle and cheese filled pasta purses with mushrooms, onion, sun dried tomatoes and arugula, tossed in a white wine butter reduction.

Glacier 51 Sea Bass – pan seared over an orange cardamom quinoa with marinated golden raisins, candied pecans, splashed with a passion fruit reduction and micro basil.

Ora King Salmon – pan seared over farro, baby squash, finished with a peach and chilie chutney.

Colorado Rack of Lamb – harissa marinated lamb flame grilled, over babaganoush with spiced garbanzo beans and lentils finished with a cool cucumber relish.

All of the above were delicious, but I do have some notes on a few that really stood out for me…

House Bacon – OMG, OMG, OMG. I could have stopped with this. Fortunately, Karen doesn’t eat bacon, so I got hers. And then Eve was wandering around with a plate of these and Karen took another one…for me! OMG.

Smoked Ahi Salad – loved the smokiness of the ahi. From Karen: The smoke enhanced/complemented the fish. The nuance was subtle but distinct.

Vegetable Sacchetti – almost didn’t try this because, you know, vegetable. That would have been dumb. Amazingly rich and delicious.

Glacier 51 Sea Bass

Glacier 51 Sea Bass – another one that I almost skipped. Karen loves sea bass; me usually not that much. This was cooked perfectly. From Karen: I congratulated the chefs on having the fish just right – medium to medium rare.

Colorado Rack of Lamb – of course I’d love this one.

Everyone this evening seemed to agree that the entire evening’s menu was perfect. And again, this is only a sample of a much larger new menu at the Oaks Grille that looks like it will please everybody, from starters to desserts. [I’m personally especially looking forward to trying the Berkshire Pork Porterhouse and the Durham Ranch Bison Rib Eye.]

Along with the new wine list, the Oaks Grille offers a great selection of specialty cocktails, including The Daily, which as the name implies is created new each day by the TPC Valencia bartenders.

I’d be remiss to not give a shout out to our servers that evening. You can tell when people are well trained and care about providing great service. Thank you to them and to Troy for hosting us. We can’t wait to go back.

Check out Eve’s slideshow of the event here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVIngqlZRAo&feature=share

Perlis Picks: The Rhone Rangers Back Again [Part Two]

May 6, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

Last week’s article was about the seminar that kicked off the latest Rhone Rangers event in Los Angeles.

Now it is time to report on the grand tasting. Three dozen wineries were pouring, mostly from Santa Barbara County and Paso Robles]:

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Bud break, photo courtesy Rhone Ranger Facebook.

Adelaida Vineyards & Winery

Alta Colina

Andrew Murray Vineyards

Bernat

Bonny Doon Vineyard

Broken Earth Winery

Calcareous Vineyard

Crux Winery

Derby Wine Estates

Eberle Winery

Fess Parker & Epiphany

Hearst Ranch Winery

Jaffurs Wine

Kaleidos

Kenneth Volk Vineyards

Kukkula

Leverage

Lone Madrone

Martian Ranch & Vineyard

Morgan Winery

Petrichor Vineyards

Pomar Junction Vineyard & Winery

Qupé

Ranchero Cellars

Record Family Wines

Rideau

Ridge Vineyards

Sculpterra Winery

Seven Oxen

Tablas Creek Vineyard

tercero wines

Thacher Winery

The Withers Winery

Two Shepherds

Vines on the Marycrest

Wrath

Zaca Mesa

Zenaida Cellars

I was determined to get to some new wineries along with some old favorites. With that many wineries, I couldn’t taste nearly everything. So, before I begin my personal picks from the event, I’d like to preface my remarks. More than maybe any other event, the Rhone Rangers tastings have always impressed me with the overall high quality of the wines being poured. My point is this. I tasted at less than half of the tables and found amazing wines at pretty much all of them. I am quite sure that if I had tasted at the other half of the winery tables, I would have found an equal number of outstanding wines at those stations as well.

That being said, these were the standouts for me of what I tasted – once again, please pardon the lack of diacritical marks on the French words. I’ve added a few comments here and there, along with a few from my wife Karen as well, noted as KP.

Alta Colima

Paso Robles, CA

2013 Toasted Slope Syrah

Andrew Murray Vineyards

Los Olivos, CA

2014 Roasted Slope Syrah

2015 Watch Hill Vineyard Syrah

[Nice to see Andrew Murray, one of my early Rhone influencers, continuing to hit it out of the park.]

Bernat Wines

Los Olivos

2010 Intrigue Syrah

Bonny Doon Vineyard

Santa Cruz, CA

2012 Le Cigare Volant Red Blend

[Randall Grahm is my own personal nominee for the father of the American Rhone movement, with the latest release of the wine that started it all for me.]

KP: Bonny Doon’s 2016 Picpoul was an even balance of bright acidity and minerality. My favorite white of the day.

Calcareous Vineyard

Paso Robles, Ca

2014 Tres Violet Red Blend

2013 Devil’s Canyon Syrah

2013 Moose Red Blend

Crux Winery

Geyserville, CA

2013 GSM, Red Blend

2014 Mourvedre

2013 Syrah

[Nice to taste some of more of the wines from this winery that I was first introduced to at Hospice du Rhone last year.]

Derby Wine Estate

Paso Robles, CA

2011 Mourvedre

2013 Petite Sirah

[For some reason I hadn’t tasted Derby’s wines, even though I am well acquainted with the history of one their vineyards – Laura’s. I’m glad I finally tried them.]

KP: I dragged Michael over to the Derby table. I enjoyed all their white wines and loved their 2015 Mourvedre Rose. Light, refreshing and clean on the palate. It was one of my favorites of the day.

Hearst Ranch

San Simeon, CA

2014 The Pergola Petite Sirah

Leverage

Paso Robles, CA

2016 Leverage Rose, Grenache Blend

2014 Acceleration Red Blend

2014 Trajectory, GSM Red Blend

[A fairly new winery, doing some good things.]

Petrichor Vineyards

Santa Rosa, CA

2014 Syrah

2014 Grenache

2014 Les Trois Red Blend

[I’ve been a fan of this winery since it started. We visited them in 2015. Still making great wines that make you want more of them.]

KP: I tasted the Petrichor 2016 Rose Blend. Subtle and very enjoyable.

Ranchero Cellars

Paso Robles, Ca

2013 Carignane

[Amy Butler might be better known as a consulting winemaker for other wineries in Paso, but her own label is definitely worth seeking out.]

KP: Amy’s 2015 Chrome, Grenache Blanc, knocked me over. It has wonderful mouth feel and bright apple overtones.

Ridge Vineyards

Curpertino, CA

2015 Lytton Estate Petite Sirah

2014 Lytton Estate Grenache/Mataro/Syrah

[An iconic winery. Nothing else needs to be said.]

tercero wines.

Los Olivos, CA

2013 Mourvedre

2011 Grenache, Camp 4 Vineyard

Two Shepherds

Windsor, CA

2014 Pastoral Blanc

2014 Pastoral Melange, Red Blend

Vines on the Marycrest

Paso Robles, CA

2014 Syrah

2014 Petite Sirah

Zaca Mesa

Los Olivos, CA

2014 Mourvedre

2012 Mesa Reserve Syrah

[Almost skipped this oldtimer, until I saw our friend Anita Musi pouring the wine. Turns out she is now their Southern California sales manager. I’m glad we stopped because the wines were excellent.]

Stopping at Zaca Mesa helped to remind me, and I am now reminding you, to check out all of these Rhone Ranger wineries. They’re making wonderful, delicious wines and deserve your attention.

Perlis Picks: Masters of Taste Returning on Sunday May 7th (NEWS: Use Promo Code Eve101 for 15% off!)

April 22, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

What do you think of when you see the football field at The Rose Bowl stadium?

If you attended UCLA [or, like me, are married to someone who did], you might think of all those triumphs and heartbreaks that the students and alumni have experienced there when cheering on their Bruins.

Or, if you are a college football fan in general, you might think of the annual Rose Bowl Game held on New Year’s Day [“the Granddaddy of them all” according to famed sportscaster Keith Jackson].

Or maybe you attended another sporting event or concert there.

But how many times have you been actually on the field? Unless you played football or performed in some other way, I would venture to say: Not many!

Last year Karen and I had the pleasure of being out on the field of the Rose Bowl stadium in Pasadena with a thousand or so other attendees of the inaugural Masters of Taste event, bringing together the best of food and beverages to benefit Union Station Homeless Services. (Get your tickets and use Promo Code Eve101 for 15% off!)

When I wrote about last year’s event, I said: “If you missed it, you missed it.” But I also said: this event should be back next year – I expect even bigger and better.”

And I was right. It is almost time to do it again!

On Sunday, May 7th, 2017, from 3 PM to 7 PM, the 2^nd Annual Masters of Taste will once again take place on the Rose Bowl field.

This is a great opportunity to have fun and do good at the same time. Last year’s event raised over $400,000 and this year’s target is well over $500,000, with all proceeds going towards the cause of ending homelessness.

Culinary Masters [such as Hache LA, Little Beast, and Redbird. etc.], Sweet Masters [ such as Lark Cake Shop and Magpies, etc.] and Beverage Masters [like Kombucha Dog, San Antonio Winery and 101 Cider House, etc.], along with live entertainment and more, you’re pretty much guaranteed to have a great time. For us wine lovers especially, I’d like to give a personal welcome to new attendees and friends Golden Star Winery and tercero, along with returning faves Ascension Cellars and Vinemark Cellars, not to mention all the other great purveyors.

You can see the entire list of Masters here:

https://mastersoftastela.com/the-masters/

We had the pleasure of attending the media preview for this upcoming event. While it was not on the field [sad face], it was right next to it in the Rose Garden. We were given the opportunity to sample the wares of:

Culinary Masters:

Chef Jenny Ross of 118 Degrees

Chef Kuniko Yagi of SpireWorks

Chef Erwin Tjahyadi, Bone Kettle and Komodo

Chef Paul Shoemaker of INTRO Art Gallery & Chef’s Table

Chef Michael Hung of Mama Lion

Sweet Master:

Café Dulce

Beverage Masters:

1886

Birds & Bees

Hall Winery

Trinchero Napa Valley

Indie Brewing Company

All the offerings were delicious. If I say that we especially enjoyed the uni tostadas from Mama Lion, the Bangkok sandwiches from SpireWorks and the 7^th Street Saison from Indie Brewing Company, along with the cocktails from 1886 and Birds & Bees, that would in no way be intended to diminish the amazingness of the other items.

Based on the quality of the food, sweets and beverages at this preview, I’d guess that this year’s event will be even better than last year’s, if that is even possible. And don’t forget, it will be on the Pasadena. Rose. Bowl. FIELD.

Get your tickets and use Promo Code Eve101 for 15% off!

Perlis Picks: The Blaq Square

April 15, 2017 by Michael Perlis 2 Comments

So is it worse to be forgetful or ignorant?

When I knew I was going to be meeting with Brad Slaughter, General Manager and part owner of The Blaq Square, the first question I wanted to ask him was the origin of the name of the restaurant.

[The second question was going to be if he was related to pro wrestler Sgt. Slaughter, but that would have been just silly, right?]

But, I forgot to ask. So, I emailed Brad right after our interview asking him to explain the name, and he immediately responded:

Photo from Facebook

“The name is inspired by the famous painting called “The Black Square” by Kazimir Malevich. It’s very unique, eclectic, rustic and inspires thought. That’s exactly what we wanted for our restaurant. The spelling Blaq is to give a chic name to match our brand and creativity.”

Well, dear reader, I hope you are a little better versed in art than I am. In retrospect, yes, I had heard of the painting [I’m gonna stick with that], but that’s about it. Some internet research led to some fascinating stuff, but I will leave that to you to do on your own. This article is supposed to be about The Blaq Square restaurant.

But, the name does make sense in the context in which Brad explained it. The restaurant, Brad said, is a fusion gastropub, but the fusion is not of cuisines, but “of preferences.” While the menu is 50% vegan, and there are many gluten-free choices, there are also lots of items that would satisfy a carnivore such as myself.

When Karen and I ate there the first time, I ordered The Sober Irishman sandwich, described as Corned Beef, Beer Mustard, Whiskey Onions, Red Cabbage and Carrot Pepper Slaw on a Brioche Bun. While these days I am trying to really only eat half portions, gosh darn if I couldn’t help myself with this sandwich. So good.

The selection of burgers and other items look just as enticing. [Speaking of burgers, Brad heavily suggests trying a burger made from Beyond Meat plant protein. While I admit the idea initially held little appeal, Brad’s description makes me want to give it a shot.] The rest of the menu is a selection of small bites and sandwiches, in keeping with the gastropub motif, along with several different pizzas made in the pizza oven that the predecessor occupant of the premises left behind.

The availability of the pizza oven was a major influence on Brad and his partners’ [including Owner/Partner/Executive Chef Nate Malonson] ability to effect the transition from the previous tenant to The Blaq Square in what has to be record time. Even then, getting things ready in only three weeks for their opening on December 8^th last year seems pretty amazing, given all the work that was done to the interior of the restaurant. Brad said that they have really focused on a philosophy of doing things to “provoke thought” and “increase creativity”. This attitude shows not only with the interior of The Blaq Square and the food items but also carries over into the drink selection, both alcohol and non. Having high quality choices, sourced organic and locally whenever possible [they even grow they own herbs] and with input from what customers are asking for, with an assortment of shakes, juices and teas, along with lots of craft beers, many of them local. And the wines…local favorites including Pulchella and Reyes highlight the list, along with some standouts from Paso Robles and beyond are sure to appeal to a wide range of wine lovers.

Brad says the community has really embraced The Blaq Square, which is great to hear. Online comments bear this out. It’s good to see a place like this in the Santa Clarita Valley, to join the small but growing group of independently owned restaurants – definitely worth checking out.

The Blaq Square

23460 Cinema Dr Suite A

Valencia, CA 91355

Perlises Pick: Great Wines of Italy 2017 – Part Two

April 8, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

Last week Karen and I told you our top picks from the JAMESSUCKLING.COM Great Wines of Italy event.

But we did have a lot of other favorites as well…

(The comments in quotes are Mr. Suckling’s [some abbreviated] from the 200 page program, along with his point score.)

Photo courtesy James Suckling Facebook.

Tenute Ambrogio & Giovanni Folonari –

Tenute Ambrogio & Giovanni Folonari Cabreo Toscana Il Borgo 2013

“…A beautiful blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. 93 Pts.”

Tenute Ambrogio & Giovanni Folonari Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione La Forra 2012

“…Excellent and special selected Chianti Classico. Drink or hold. 93 Pts.”

Bellavista –

Bellavista Franciacorta Teatro alla Scala Brut 2011

“…Aromas of sliced apple, lemon and flint…Delicious at the end…94 Pts.”

Bosco Agostino –

Bosco Agostino Barbera d’Alba Superiore Volupta 2013

“A barbera with dried berry, lemon and almond aromas and flavors…90 Pts.”

Bosco Agostino Barolo La Serra 2012

“Lots of ripe strawberry, licorice, aniseed and rose petal on the nose…94 Pts.”

Brancaia –

Brancaia Toscana Il Blu 2011

“…Full body, chewy but polished tannins and a flavorful finish. This is so beautiful now to drink but will reward those who are patient. 93 Pts.”

Brancaia Toscana Ilatraia 2012

“Plenty of blueberry, chocolate and light toasted oak character. Smoky meat, too. Full body, chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. Needs a year or two to come together. 93 Pts.”

Castelli del Grevepesa –

Castelli del Grevepesa Chianti Classico Clemente VII Riserva 2013

“A density and freshness to this withoyster-shell, blueberry and dark chocolate character. Full and savory. Drink now or hold. 92 Pts.”

Castelli del Grevepesa Chianti Classico Clemente VII Gran Selezione 2011

“Flamboyant Chianti Classico with chocolate and berry character…Long and flavorful finish. Drink now. 92 Pts.”

Cordero di Montezemolo –

Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto 2012

“Muscular and buff for the vintage with plenty of plum, terra-cotta and dry soil aromas and flavors. Full body, flavorful finish. Drink in 2018. 94 Pts.”

Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Bricco Gattera 2012

“Gorgeous aromas of rose petals, strawberries and lavender follow through to a full body and ripe fruit and tannins. Flavorful character of tangerines and dried Strawberries…93 Pts.”

Elio Grasso –

Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera 2012

“Extremely perfumed with flowers and plum. Full-bodied, deep and dense yet agile and fresh…95 Pts.”

Gianni Gagliardo –

Gianni Gagliardo Barolo Castelletto 2013

“Love the perfume and berry character to this one…Full to medium body, round and velvety tannins and a long and flavorful finish…93 Pts.”

Gianni Gagliardo Barolo Preve 2013

“Aromas of licorice, rose petals and berries. Full body, chewy tannins and lots of fruit. It’s tight and polished, and there’s so much going on. Very cool. Best ever from this vineyard…96 Pts.”

Orma –

Orma Toscana 2014

“Fascinating aromas of stone, wet concrete and dark fruit. Full body, firm and silky tannins and a flavorful finish. A structured and firm wine. Give it two or three years to soften. 94 Pts.”

Orma Passi di Orma 2015

“Very pretty aromas of currant, tobacco, and mint. Subtle. Full body, silky tannins and lots of fruit and richness. Beautiful length to this. Better in 2020. 95 Pts.”

Podernuovo a Palazzone –

Podernuovo a Palazzone Toscana Therra 2013

“Blueberry and currant character with hints of mint and spearmint. Medium body and a solid core of fruit and tannins. Fresh finish…92 Pts.”

Podernuovo a Palazzone Toscana Argirio 2013

Plenty of blackberry, spice and hints of grilled veggies. Cabernet is there! Full to medium body, silky tannins and a flavorful finish. Fresh yet rich. Mostly cabernet franc. Drink or hold. 94 Pts.”

Prà –

Pra Amarone della Valpolicella 2010

“This is rich and chewy with lots of black pepper and berry character…This will be even better with a few years of bottle age when it softens, but it’s so good now. 92 Pts.”

Tommasi –

Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012

“A red with dried fruits such as raisins and sultanas. Full-bodied, round and fruity. Soft, velvety tannins and a flavorful finish. Very classic style of Amarone. Drink now. 93 Pts.”

Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superiore Rafael 2014

“A lovely Valpo that is delicate and spicy with a lemon-rind and blueberry character. Medium body, vibrant fruit and wonderful acidity. Flavorful. Drink now. 91 Pts.”

Vignamaggio –

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico Riserva di Monna Lisa Gran Selezione 2013

“A Chianti Classico with energy and density, yet this remains lively and bright with an underlining backbone of acidity. Medium body, bright fruit and a clean finish. Drink or hold. 92 Pts.”

Vignamaggio Cabernet Franc Toscana 2013

“This is so beautiful with a clarity of blueberry and rose petal character. Medium body, ultra-fine tannins and an elegant and refined finish. Drink now or hold. 94 Pts.”

MP: I was really impressed by the depth of flavors in the wines I tasted. Admittedly, my wine drinking choices have left me with a California palate, and I often have to work a little harder than I might like at appreciating the nuances of some European wines. Not so with these, and I recommend anyone who thinks they only like California wines to broaden their horizons with some of these Italian offerings.

And Karen to wrap it up: The evening felt like we were in Italy, right down to most of the winemakers and reps having Italian accents – and they were all charming to boot. That along with the great wine and food, made for a wonderful night.