Perlis Picks: Elevating Zinfandel

June 29, 2019 by evebushman

Admittedly, the last few months have been difficult for my family and me. Stuff happens to all of us so the details aren’t necessary for this article, but getting the invitation to Ian Blackburn’s WineLA’s annual Elevating Zinfandel event was like a light at the end of the tunnel.

Wine people are good people and I often feel that Zinfandel people tend to be the best people of all. Tasting through a multitude of versions of my oft-favorite varietal amidst a great group of attendees and winery participants really helped to remind me of what makes Zinfandel special to me. I was determined to relax and enjoy.

So, I took my time. I didn’t try everything, but of what I did, these were the standouts for me. (If you want to see all the wines poured, here is the link to Eve’s article: http://evewine101.com/2019/06/14/eve-gets-her-zinfandel-on-at-elevating-zin-2019/)

My first stop was Mauritson Wines where Clay Mauritson was pouring a few of his Rockpile Zinfandels (2016 Rockpile Ridge Vineyard, 2017 Rockpile Ridge Vineyard and 2017 Jack’s Cabin Vineyard), along with one 2017 designated as Dry Creek Valley. The DCV was delicious, but I was there for the Rockpiles. I’ve written before how special a place I believe the Rockpile AVA to be, and nobody showcases the region better than Mauritson. And not rushing through the tasting was really a good idea. While Clay and I reminisced about our visit to Mauritson last year and chatted about this year’s upcoming Project Zin event, the wine had a little more time to develop in the glass. The wine was showing even more of that Rockpile richness and complexity.

Pouring next to Mauritson was WineLA’s Ian Blackburn himself providing tastes of his own Beekeeper Cellars Zinfandel. This is definitely not a vanity project for Ian. His wines are serious versions of this beloved grape. My favorite here was the 2016 Secret Stones from Rockpile, but the 2016 Monticello was no slouch either.

Besides the two wineries mentioned above, Sonoma County was very well represented at this tasting. As it should be; the area is definitely one of the top destinations for Karen and me. Wineries I especially enjoyed were:

Kreck – lighter in color as can often be the case with 100% Zinfandels, neither wine poured was light in flavor. Loved both the 2016 Teldeschi Vineyard and 2016 Del Barba Vineyard.

Martinelli Winery – this Russian River Valley legendary winery was somewhat of an eye-opener for me. I’ve always enjoyed their wines, but in the past the alcohol heat was just a little apparent. Not these 2016s. All three wines being poured were delicious and very “gulpable” and the Vigneto di Evo bottling is a veritable steal at its price point.

Portalupi Winery – this was a new winery to me. They actually have been around since 2002, specializing in Italian varietals. Fortunately, they also make Zinfandel, from the famed Dolinsek Ranch in the Russian River Valley. They were pouring their regular and reserve bottlings from 2016 and 2017, with the 2017 Reserve a solid candidate for my wine of the day.

Williams Selyem – known for Pinot Noir, this winery also makes a couple of excellent Zinfandels. My favorite was the 2017 Papera Vineyard, a heritage site that Karen and I had the pleasure of visiting a few years back.

Zialena – we also visited this winery not too long ago in the Alexander Valley. They were pouring their 2016 Estate and 2015 Estate Reserve bottlings and both were delicious.

Napa Valley, while known mainly for its Cabernet Sauvignon (for some reason), has some very good Zinfandel producers that sometimes fly under the radar.

Brown Estate – a true classic winery that makes you wonder why you don’t hear more about Napa Zin. They were pouring four of them today; my favorites were the 2017 Chiles Valley and Rosemary’s Block bottlings.

Robert Biale Vineyards – a winery that excels in Petite Sirah also, but today was about their 2017 Zinfandel. They make several Zins; the two being poured were the famed Black Chicken and the Stagecoach, both wonderful examples of what can come from this area.

Finally, it might not be considered a real Zinfandel event without Turley Wine Cellars. Whitney Turley, one of the four Turley sisters represented by the stars on Turley’s corks and one of two working at Turley Wine Cellars (along with her sister Christina), was pouring four 2017 Zins. Contrary to the other wineries, these were from neither Napa nor Sonoma. The Juvenile is possibly the best deal out there for Zinfandel [or maybe anything]. The other three single-vineyard wines all had special meaning to me: Kirschenmann Vineyard in Lodi [owned by Turley Director of Winemaking Tegan Passalacqua], Buck Cobb Vineyard in Amador County [from the old Karly winery] and the Dusi Vineyard in Paso Robles [my consistently favorite Turley wine]. It should go without saying that they were all delicious; we’re talking Turley, after all.

Wrapping up the afternoon tasting, I reflected on my very purposeful decision to not rush through and attempt to taste everything but to try to really appreciate the moment, the wines, and winery people pouring them. I highly recommend this approach. Thank you to Ian Blackburn and the entire staff of WineLA for putting on another great event.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com

Perlis Picks The Spinster Sisters and The Astro

February 16, 2019 by Michael Perlis

Santa Rosa in Sonoma County is very diverse. There are many high end hotels and restaurants if you are looking for that but there are other options as well.

In what is known as the SOFA arts district are two places you should know about. The area is known as SOFA because it is South of A Street and actually has an annual sofa parade during its Winterblast street festival.

Acclaimed Chef Liza Hinman took a big chance when she opened The Spinster Sisters restaurant in 2012 in the under-served SOFA area. But the risk has clearly paid off with the restaurant’s popularity and accolades, most recently being awarded Best Restaurant in 2017 by the North Bay Bohemian. Being lauded by others as well (such as Michelin, SF Weekly, Eater and Wine Enthusiast) are just additional examples of the kudos they have received, serving Liza’s continually evolving menu featuring local products.

Truly, upon entering this restaurant, you know immediately that you wish it was in your neighborhood. A lot of adventurously prepared small plates (like smoked trout dip, pork belly sliders, steamed mussel mouclade, among many others) were keeping a large crowd in a family atmosphere very happy. The very fairly priced wine list is intriguing as well, with a nice selection of local wines combined with other California and international choices. The by-the-glass list includes some wines on tap, which adds to the fun. Oh, and they are open for breakfast and lunch too. Check out their website for more info on the menus and wine selections.

Liza’s continuing commitment to the area’s development is evident in her recent acquisition and remodeling (along with her partners from The Spinster Sisters) of The Astro Motel, which is walking distance from the restaurant. Admittedly, this was another risk on her part, as the property had long been considered a blight to the area. But Liza and her team have transformed the Astro.

The Astro has 34 rooms, of which two are Doubles and two are King Suites. The rest have Queen size beds in them. Built in the early 60s, it used to look like a pretty standard “motor hotel” with rooms in a U-shaped layout with a parking lot in the middle. That parking lot is mostly gone, replaced by landscaping and an edible garden. A short walk to offsite parking picks up the overflow. Each room has its own colorful and eclectic furnishings designed by local artists and craftspeople. And all these mid-century original items are for sale.

The Astro actually opened earlier than planned, as FEMA approval granted after the fires in late 2017 for them to house displaced survivors at no cost to them, again just showing commitment to the area.

The downstairs lounge area currently serves breakfast with coffee from Flying Goat and pastries from Criminal Bakery. The lounge is a roomy place to wind down and use the free WiFi to go through emails at the end of a day of sightseeing. The plan is to expand the offerings to include wine tasting from local producers.

The Astro is a fun place to stay. There are plenty of things to do in the area as well. One of the investors is Giro d’Italia champion Andy Hampsten and the motel rents Shinola Bikes to its guests. Also, per the website: “It’s the only place in Sonoma County where, within a five-minute walk, travelers can gaze at contemporary art or used cars, see an avant-garde theater ensemble or a team of bocce players, get a tattoo or a tintype portrait, and a taste of the some of the finest wine, beer and produce in Northern California.” Besides, you’re right in the middle of Sonoma County.

It wouldn’t be right to close this article without a big thank you to The Astro General Manager Lisa Robbins and her staff. They are a gracious group and went out of their way to take excellent care of us.

The Spinster Sisters

401 S A St, Santa Rosa, CA 95401

The Astro

323 Santa Rosa Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95404

https://theastro.com/

http://thespinstersisters.com/

Perlis Picks: Vintners Inn

February 9, 2019 by Michael Perlis

Karen and I often extol the virtues of staying at a winery when visiting wine country. Nothing beats the ambience of waking up to a vineyard scene. But, maybe you are looking for more than what a typical winery may have to offer.

What about staying at a property modeled after a Southern Mediterranean village, with all the amenities you could ask for? And, yes, you will have that vineyard view all day long.

Welcome to Vintners Inn.

Located in Santa Rosa with easy access to local wineries as well as being able to jump on the freeway to expand your adventures – but Vintners Inn offers so much that you don’t need to leave the property if you don’t want to.

We spoke to Percy Brandon, General Manager of Vintners Inn. He’s been with Vintners Inn over 18 years as he has shepherded them through their master plan with the expansion of additional luxury rooms, bringing the total from 44 to 78 – all of the new rooms have tons of modern features as well as vineyard views. Percy emphasized that the Vintners Inn motto of “Celebrate Everything” is not just a catchy phrase but it truly applied to all aspects of the guests’ stay.

Acquired by Rhonda Carano and her late husband Don in 2000, it was a great addition to their existing ownership of Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery. Percy came on board initially to manage the onsite John Ash & Co restaurant but soon took over the entire property. His enthusiasm and clear love for what he does permeates all aspects of the Vintners Inn.

The elegant John Ash & Co restaurant is only the beginning of what this property has to offer. Other dining options include the The Front Room Bar & Lounge (its Happy Hour is a locals’ favorite) as well as the River Vine Café for breakfast and lunch. The recent additions not only include the luxurious new guest rooms but also the Vi La Vita Spa.

Being very environmental conscious, Vintners Inn has achieved the California Green Lodging Program’s Environmental Level. Not only is there an onsite 68 acre vineyard, but vegetable gardens and olive trees to supply the property’s restaurants. There are even beehives. Feel free to stroll among the vines and experience wine country firsthand.

With a total property size of 98 acres, Vintners Inn also boasts a meeting and event center – who wouldn’t want to hold a business or pleasure function in this paradise? Not to mention the outdoor Vineyard Pavilion. No wonder Vintners Inn is such a popular wedding site; I think we saw two during our last stay and Percy told us they host dozens of weddings annually.

Vintners Inn

https://www.vintnersinn.com/

4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95403

Perlis Picks Zinfandel: Stories from Napa Valley

February 2, 2019 by Michael Perlis

During our trip to Santa Rosa in Sonoma County, Karen and I naturally got a hankering for some Zinfandel. So, where did we go? Well, Napa, of course. Wait, really?

Admittedly, Zinfandel may not be the first varietal that comes to mind when one thinks about Napa, but maybe it should be. After all, the popularity of current “fad” grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon is a fairly recent phenomenon and historically vineyards were planted heavily to Zinfandel, often interspersed with other varietals.

Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) is the organization for all things Zinfandel. Perhaps best known for the huge annual January event in San Francisco, ZAP does a number of other things as well. According to the ZAP website: “Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) is a membership based organization that advances knowledge and appreciation for American Zinfandel and its unique place in our culture and history.”

Last year, ZAP held a series of events in various California wine regions, highlighting the Zinfandel producers and vineyards of those regions. Our timing prevented us from attending the event held in Sonoma County but with Napa being only a hop, skip and a jump over the Mayacamas Mountains [from our morning visit to Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery], we were excited to attend…

Zinfandel: Stories from Napa Valley.

Held in the CIA at Copia, Napa, the event consisted of a tasting seminar followed by a walk-around reception. Moderated by the always entertaining “Sommelier to the Stars” Christopher Sawyer, the speaker panel consisted of Julie Johnson (Tres Sabores), Carol Brown (Brown Estate Vineyards), Tres Goetting (Robert Biale Vineyards) and Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Wine Cellars). And, yes, wine was included with the seminar, as any respectable wine seminar should include wines to taste. (Maybe all seminars regardless of whether about wine or not should include wine, but I digress.) The wines presented were:

Tres Sabores – 2015 Estate Zinfandel, Rutherford

Brown Estate Vineyards – 2016 Estate Zinfandel, Chiles Valley

Robert Biale Vineyards – 2016 Aldo’s Zinfandel, Oak Knoll

Turley Wine Cellars – 2016 Dragon Zinfandel, Howell Mountain

The wineries and wines presented offered great examples of the diversity of Napa Valley Zinfandel showcasing wines from the valley floor as well as from mountainside vineyards.

Each speaker had some interesting tidbits for us. Among other things, I learned that Julie Johnson was one of the founders of Frog’s Leap Winery (along with John Williams and Larry Turley) as well as “Women for Wine Sense” before eventually founding her own Tres Sabores winery in 1999. We’ve known Tres Goetting for some time and loved his comment that “I love Zinfandel because it is a mysterious varietal that never ceases to amaze.” I think we’ve known Tegan Passalacqua even longer and found his remark very intriguing that the Howell Mountain AVA is the most unique AVA that he has worked with. But I think that Coral Brown really touched on how I feel about Zinfandel when she said that their goal is to make the wine shine and the food pairing is just like a backup singer to the wine.

During the seminar, Christopher Sawyer also shared with us that ZAP had just received a grant from the California Department of Food and Agriculture to help to fund the launch of “Zinfandel Stories: Preserving California’s Legendary Vineyards.” This was especially good news to us, as we are staunch advocates of the importance of California’s historic vineyards, so many of which are Zinfandel-based.

After the seminar it was time for the reception, which included many more wineries organized to showcase Zinfandel from Napa Valley’s different growing regions, along with bites from the CIA kitchen. Here’s what was poured…

From Calistoga:

August Briggs Winery

2015 Ancient Vines

2015 Old Vines

Chateau Montelena Winery

2012 Estate

2014 Estate

T-Vine Winery

2014 Frediani Vineyard

From Chiles Valley:

Brown Napa Valley

2016 Estate

Green & Red Vineyard

2015 Chiles Mill Vineyard

2015 Chiles Canyon Vineyard

From Howell Mountain:

Howell Mountain Vineyards

2015 Old Vine

2015 Beatty Ranch Reserve

Lamborn Family Vineyards

2014 The Earthquake Vintage

2014 The Platinum Anniversary

Outpost Wines

2015 Estate

2016 Estate

Summit Lake Vineyards

2014 Summit Lake Vineyard

From Napa Valley:

Ballentine Vineyards

2016 Estate

2015 Reserve

Grgich Hills Estate

2013 Estate

2014 Miljenko’s Old Vines

Hendry

2015 Blocks 7 & 22

2015 Blend

2015 Mike and Molly

Saddleback Cellars

2016 Old Vine

The Lost Chapters (Scotto Cellars)

2013 The Lost Chapters

Turley Wine Cellars

2016 Dragon Vineyard

2016 Hayne Vineyard

2016 Mead Ranch

Sattui Winery

2015 Black Sears

2015 Vittoria’s Vineyard

2015 Quaglia Vineyard “Agent Vine”

From Oak Knoll:

Robert Biale Vineyards

2016 Aldo’s Vineyard

From Oakville:

Oakville Ranch Winery

2015 Field Blend

2014 Field Blend

From Rutherford:

Neal Family Vineyards

2016 Rutherford Dust Vineyard

Tres Sabores

2016 Estate

From St. Helena:

D-cubed Cellars

2014 Korte Ranch

The above list is from the program. (More wines were poured as well.) I listed them all here, not to boost my word count (well maybe a little) but to emphasize that there is really a lot going on in Napa Valley when it comes to Zinfandel. Personally, I’ve always been a fan of wines from Howell Mountain, like Outpost. At the same times there’s no denying the richness of the lower elevation wines like Brown and Green & Red. There’s a lot of diversity and a Zin for every taste, for sure.

I think it is especially important to support Napa’s Zinfandel production as these vineyards are in constant danger of being replaced with more profitable grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon. So please, go out and get some Napa Zin soon.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Ev Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Historic Vineyard Society 2018 Year in Review and Upcoming 2019 Events

January 19, 2019 by Michael Perlis

This week, we’ll take a break from our Sonoma trip series to share with you the recent information received from the Historic Vineyard Society.

Karen and I have been fans of this organization for some time. Spearheaded by Mike Dildine, the HVS team of Bob Biale (Biale Vineyards), David Gates (Ridge Vineyards), Mike Officer (Carlisle Winery), Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Wine Cellars and Sandlands), Morgan Twain-Peterson (Bedrock Wine Company), Larry Piggins (Photography), Emily Rasmussen (HVS Executive Director) along with special consultant Joel Peterson (Ravenswood Winery and Once & Future Wine) do the important work, with YOUR help, to preserve California’s historic vineyards.

Here’s their latest news:

It’s hard to believe, but another year has come and gone! We at the Historic Vineyard Society have had another eventful, productive year, and we’re incredibly grateful to all those who joined us for our various events and tastings over the last twelve months.

The Year in Review

In February, a panel of HVS growers and winemakers gathered for a two-part event at Cadet Beer & Wine Bar in Napa: first, a private tasting of several wines with a panel discussion on historic vineyards, then an open-to-the-public tasting where locals had the chance to taste a selection of wines from historic vineyards.

In April, HVS hosted a magnificent, never-before-seen gathering of wines from California’s oldest vineyards. The tasting took place at Press Club in San Francisco and featured 30 wineries and 70+ wines across dozens of historical sites, from Cienega Valley Riesling to Contra Costa Carignan, Calistoga Petite Sirah and numerous eclectic field blends. The event sold out at 250 guests and was a great success.

In June, HVS Board members once again participated in an educational tasting for students in the UC Davis Viticulture and Enology program, working to spread the good news of historic vines to the next generation of the wine industry.

November marked another new event for HVS: a tasting at Sonoma’s Best Mercantile in the town of Sonoma. Keeping with the theme of the store’s name, this tasting featured wines from the oldest vineyards in Sonoma Valley: 100 attendees had the opportunity to taste wines from Monte Rosso, Old Hill Ranch, Pagani Ranch and Bedrock Vineyard.

What’s New for 2019

Upcoming HVS Events:

February 6th, 2019: HVS returns to Cadet Beer & Wine Bar in Napa, showcasing a selection of old-vine wines from the Russian River Valley to the Cienega Valley. More details on our website here.

June 8th, 2019: Save the Date for our 2019 Vineyard Tour & Dinner! After a year off, we’re excited to announce the return of this beloved HVS event. The 2019 Vineyard Tour and Dinner will take place high above Sonoma Valley at the beautiful Monte Rosso Vineyard on Saturday, June 8th. Tickets will go on sale in mid-January. We hope to see you there!

HVS on the Web: Be sure to follow HVS on social media to stay up to date on the latest HVS announcements and see behind-the-scenes photos from events and historic vineyards.

Facebook: Historic Vineyard Society

Instagram: @historicvineyardsociety

Twitter: @historicvineorg

Ways to Support HVS

Donate! Perhaps the most obvious answer, but we can’t overstate how much we value all your contributions. As a reminder, your tax-deductible donation directly supports historic vineyards through education, research and vineyard-related events. Help keep these precious vines in the ground!

Shop using AmazonSmile, where .5% of every eligible order will be donated to HVS. To get started, visit smile.amazon.com, then search for and select Historic Vineyard Society. Every penny counts!

Once again, we can’t thank you enough for all your support of HVS. We look forward to another great year to come.

Best wishes,

[Signed by]

Mike Officer

Bob Biale

Tegan Passalacqua

David Gates

Morgan Twain-Peterson

Mike Dildine

All donations will benefit the Historic Vineyard Society, a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization dedicated to the preservation of California’s oldest living vineyards. For further information, contact the Historic Vineyard Society at (707) 494-1667 or info@historicvineyardsociety.org.

Perlis Picks: Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards and Winery

January 12, 2019 by Michael Perlis

Let me make this perfectly clear: I have nothing against Cabernet Sauvignon. While our own personal wine journey has taken us primarily down the Zinfandel and Rhone paths, we definitely recognize Cabernet’s place in the pantheon of great wine grapes. Most of our wine trips tend to focus on our favorite varietals, but we have no aversion to expanding those choices. So when our friends gave us a certificate for a tasting at Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery we were happy to do just that.

Stone Edge Farm actually owns three vineyards – Stone Edge, Mount Pisgah and Silver Cloud, which are managed organically by the renowned Phil Coturri.

The Stone Edge Vineyard property at the base of Sonoma Mountain was acquired by Mac and Leslie McQuown in 1995. The property has the distinction of having been owned by Nicholas Carriger, who came to Sonoma from Missouri in 1847. When he planted here, he became the first American to grow wine grapes in Sonoma Valley.

Mac McQuown had his own distinction, not only as a very successful businessman and entrepreneur, but also in the wine industry, having been a founder of both Chalone and Carmenet wineries.

Winemaker Jeff Baker, who was also a partner at Carmenet, joined the McQuowns with his Mount Pisgah Vineyard in the Mayacamas Mountains. Eventually they formed Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery in 2004.

The Silver Cloud Vineyard is in the Moon Mountain District just north of the Mount Pisgah vineyard, up in the Mayacamas Mountains where Sonoma County borders Napa County. The tasting room is on the Silver Cloud property and it is aptly named, being at a high elevation seemingly close to the clouds. It’s a long, winding and narrow road; they recommend you hire a driver. Please don’t go all the way up there without making an appointment first.

Karen and I had plans to head into Napa (more on this in a future article) so we chose that morning to pay Stone Edge Farm a visit.

We parked and were met by Philippe Thibault, Stone Edge Farm’s Director of Hospitality, who gave us a tour of this amazing mountain property and led our tasting.

Stone Edge Farm makes three wines: a Sauvignon Blanc a Bordeaux blend called “Surround” and their flagship Cabernet Sauvignon.

We tasted the 2016 Sauvignon Blanc [actually an 80/20 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon], two vintages of the Surround blend [2009 and 2014] and the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon.

My impressions were that these wines are designed to showcase the fruit but to not overpower the palate. Sometimes wines are referred to as “food wines” because they just don’t stand on their own and need food to make them work. That was not the case here. The wines all drank beautifully on their own but the experience was definitely enhanced by the charcuterie that was provided.

The Cabernet Sauvignon in particular made a special impression. I am not one for complicated tasting notes, but I did comment specifically about the mouthfeel of this wine, the way it magically spread across my tongue and then dissipated. I actually said “…like a cloud” before I remembered we were at the Silver Cloud Vineyard.

As I’m sure you’ve noticed, the name is Stone Edge Farm. The entire operation is built around sustainability and includes 16 acres that are organically farmed just west of downtown Sonoma. There is a 30-seat private dining room called Edge where their culinary director pairs the Stone Edge Farm wines with seasonal dishes.

Just to wrap up – Thank you so much Philippe Thibault for being such an engaging host. This is definitely a winery to check out when you are looking for an elevated experience, both in location and in wine. But remember: Make an appointment!

Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery

Perlis Picks: Zialena

January 5, 2019 by Michael Perlis

An Irishman, an Israeli and a Korean walk into a tasting room.

While this may sound like the opening line of a bad joke it is actually how I found out about Zialena.

The Irishman and his Israeli wife are friends of ours. They were visiting Sonoma County with their friend, the Korean gentleman, when their driver suggested they go to a fairly new winery that they had not yet heard of.

They enjoyed their experience so much that they gave me the Tasting Room Manager’s business card. When we were planning our trip a few months later, I reached out to Reece Channell to schedule a visit.

When we drove up the long winding driveway to the modernistic winery and tasting room in Alexander Valley, I thought at first I was at the winery of some wealthy dabbler with a vanity winery project; the place looks that cool.

It turns out I was totally wrong, as the owners of Zialena have deep roots in the area, being one of those “becoming-rare-like-a-unicorn” families that Scot Bilbro alluded to in my previous article.

In fact, the Mazzoni family’s story in Geyserville goes back to the early 1900s when Giuseppe Mazzoni emigrated from Italy. He became a grape farmer and winemaker with Italian Swiss Colony. Giuseppe’s sons produced wine commercially until the 1970s (look for the old barn off the 101 with the Dr. Pierce’s sign on it) after which grandson Mike established Mazzoni Vineyards.

As often happens, Mike’s kids Lisa and Mark wanted to get the family back into the winemaking business, and Zialena (with Mark as winemaker and Lisa as General Manager) was born, naming it after their aunt (“Zia” in Italian) Lena. The winery and tasting room buildings that I found to be so cool were designed to showcase the family property as well as highlight the modern aspects of the winery itself. The centerpiece of the winery are several open-top concrete fermentation tanks which are emblazoned with what I had initially thought to be a starburst pattern but turned out to be the pattern of Zia Lena’s ravioli stamp, which is the logo of the winery.

Tasting is available in the tasting room or on the patio. As the weather was great, we opted for the patio and tasted through some of the current releases:

2016 Sauvignon Blanc

2017 Rose of Sangiovese

2014 Capella

2013 Zinfandel

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon

2015 Zinfandel

This was a very tasty selection. The Sauvignon Blanc and the Rose of Sangiovese were both very refreshing, the Sangio in particular picking up that grape’s complexity. The 2013 Cabernet showcases the fruit that makes Sonoma County my favorite destination for Cab. The 2014 Cappela is a true Zinfandel-based field blend that is an homage to the family history and is delicious.

Speaking of Zins, those for me were the shining stars, not to mention having an interesting story behind them.

It wasn’t until Mark and Lisa had already started making wine at Zialena that their father Mike happened to mention the Mazzoni clone of Zinfandel.

This is how Reece explained it:

In the drafting process of the vineyard map with varietals and acreage breakdown Mike mentions very nonchalantly “….. and this is planted with Mazzoni clone Zinfandel.” Both Mark and Lisa immediately ask, “Wait what? Mazzoni clone Zinfandel? What is that?” Mike then tells the story of how Duff Bevill of Bevill Vineyard Management came across Giuseppe’s original vineyard at the location of the Doctor Pierce’s barn. Eventually Duff came over to talk to Mike about it because he was the only family member who knew about the old home ranch. They decided to find out more about the Zinfandel on the property by taking bud wood to UC Davis for analysis. Sure enough Davis had not seen this Zinfandel before! It was then registered by Davis as the Bevill/Mazzoni clone of Zinfandel. It is a heritage pre-prohibition clone. Mark and Lisa are very proud to be the fourth generation to grow the clone and to make a 100% single vineyard, single clone Zinfandel out of it.

This story was especially meaningful to us, as we are deeply interested in California’s heritage grapes and vineyards.

Zialena has a bright future ahead. The current winery was only completed a couple of years ago (previous vintages were made at a custom crush), so one has to feel that as good as the wines are now, the best is yet to come.

Zialena

21112 River Road

Geyserville, CA 95441

Perlis Picks: Marietta Cellars

December 29, 2018 by Michael Perlis

Recently, I wrote an article about Sam Bilbro’s Idlewild Wines. In the past, I’ve written about Jake Bilbro’s Limerick Lane Winery. But to truly attempt to grasp the influence of the Bilbro family on Sonoma County – indeed California – wine, one really needs to go back to where it started: Marietta Cellars.

Chris Bilbro, patriarch of the Bilbro clan, founded Marietta Cellars in 1978, naming it after his great-aunt. He bought the current winery property in 1990. Scot Bilbro took over winery operations from his father a few years back. He toured the winery with us on our visit, along with Jenifer Freebairn (Marietta’s VP of Sales and Marketing). Winery equipment is a curious mix of old and new equipment and that’s how Scot likes it. Production is now at about 65,000 cases annually and there are no direct-to-consumer sales. [So, why am I here, right?]

“Scot,” I said, “you are somewhat of a unicorn.”

Scot laughingly asked me “Michael, what do you mean?” even though I was sure he understood my point.

For many years, I have been an extremely vocal proponent of buying wine directly from small family owned wineries. “Don’t buy at big retail stores,” I’d say. “Support the little guys who are crafting their authentic wines by hand.” Now here comes Marietta Cellars, selling only to stores and restaurants through a network of distributors. And at 65,000 cases, while not a big winery in the corporate world, Marietta is definitely on the larger size of “small family owned wineries.”

Which brought me to my “unicorn” comment because off the top of my head I don’t know of any other family owned wineries that only sell wholesale.

Scot said that they were a “unicorn” in another way too. Families like the Bilbros, the Mauritsons and a few others are part of an ever shrinking group that has been farming the area for decades. While Scot in no way bemoaned the new blood that is coming into the region, he did acknowledge that families like the Bilbros are becoming more and more rare in Sonoma County.

As I said, no direct to consumer sales and therefore – no tasting room. But my writer’s card did get us an opportunity sit down with Scot and Jen to taste some of the winery’s current releases.

The largest production of the winery goes to the OVR series, which is most known for Old Vine Red but there is also an Old Vine Rose and an Old Vine Riesling. We tasted Old Vine Red Lot Number 67 which is a Zinfandel heavy blend. This wine was first produced in 1982 and doesn’t have vintage designations as it is a combination of grapes from different years.

As is a characteristic of Marietta Cellars wines, the OVR really over-delivers at its low price point – I’ve seen this wine for well under $20. My only complaint about this wine is it might encourage people to feel that this wine is so delicious why would they need to expand their horizons [i.e. pay more]?

My answer to them would be: the best is yet to come.

And that would be the next tier up, the Family series, each wine being named after a beloved member of Marietta Cellars’ extended family. We tasted the 2016 “Román” a Zinfandel (named after cellar master Roman Cisneros, who has been with Marietta Cellars over 30 years – one of several long-term employees), the 2015 “Armé” a Cabernet Sauvignon (named after Marietta’s husband) and the 2015 “Christo”, an intense Syrah-based blend named after Chris Bilbro himself.

All of these wines had great fruit and mouthfeel with long finishes, most notable to me in the Christo. But what I really got from these wines was a feeling of comfort. They are just really good tasting wines that you want to curl up and read a good book with or enjoy with a hearty meal.

These attributes carried over — and then some – to the top tier Estate series as well. As the name implies, this series showcases some of the special vineyards that Marietta works with. The 2016 Angeli Zinfandel (named after the family that settled the property in the late 1800s), the 2015 Game Trail Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2015 Gibson Block Syrah were all wines you just didn’t want to dump from your tasting glass. Especially that Syrah which was just amazing.

As I’ve said [too many times?], you can’t buy these wines directly from the winery. So, don’t go showing up on their doorstep asking for a taste. I suggest you use the Find Wine tool on their website to see where you can get your hands on some.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Ev Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Idlewild

December 8, 2018 by Michael Perlis

It is hard to talk about wine in Sonoma County without the name Bilbro coming up.

I’ve written more than once about Jake Bilbro and the outstanding wines that he is making at Limerick Lane.

Did you know that two other Bilbro brothers also make wine? One of them is Scot, who is carrying on the tradition of father Chris at Marietta Cellars [more on him in a future article].

And then there is Sam. Sam actually hadn’t planned on making wine. He essentially grew up at Marietta Cellars but the thought of making what Sonoma County is known for like the Rhones and Zins that Marietta Cellars and Limerick Lane make or the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which also tend to dominate the region apparently didn’t appeal to him. He had planned to do something else with his life.

Yet, we found ourselves in an industrial center north of Healdsburg in Geyserville, trying to track Sam down and find out what had changed. We circled around the center for a while, seeing other winemakers doing their thing, but couldn’t find Sam. I finally gave in to my natural disinclination to ask for directions and called him. He promptly flagged us down from the very back of the center where he shares space with a few other small wineries.

It was the middle of harvest and the winery was busy with workers as well as incoming grapes. We didn’t want to be in the way or take up too much of Sam’s time [we had actually pulled him away from his lunch] but we did chat for a little while about what he was doing.

The big question, of course, was what made him decide to go into winemaking after having decided that he wasn’t going to? The answer was Nebbiolo. One day, tasting an authentic version of this wine, Sam’s passion for Italian varietals was triggered, specifically those from Piedmont, and from that day forward he knew he wanted to make them. So Idlewild was born.

Piedmontese grapes such as Arneis and Cortese – for white wines—and Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo for reds are sourced from Mendocino County and turned into wine at that Geyserville industrial park. Until recently they could only be obtained via the winery’s mailing list or at a few restaurants. That’s changed though as Sam recently opened a tasting room for Idlewild just off the Healdsburg town square.

We knew that Sam needed to get back to work and we wanted to taste the wine and not only those just-picked Barbera grapes, delicious as they were. So we left Sam to his duties and headed down to that new tasting room.

Idlewild makes three “entry level” [for lack of a better term] blends: The Bee (white), The Flower (rose) and The Bird (red), as well as single-varietal bottlings of Arneis, Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cortese and Dolcetto. In the tasting room we got to taste the latest releases of the single-varietals as well as the rose. [Please note that we’ve tasted prior vintages of the white blend as well as we had purchased some as part of Idlewild’s fundraising efforts relating to the 2017 fires – all three Bilbro wineries participated in these efforts.]

I really like wines that are delicious and fun to drink [Who doesn’t, right? Duh.] I also really like wines that get your attention and require some contemplation. These wines do both, which doesn’t always happen. All of these wines are very tasty, well made wines with complex attributes. My two favorites were the Cortese and the Barbera. The Cortese is Sam’s version of an Orange wine [i.e. fermented on the skins]. I am a fan of Orange wines but I’ve found that some of them taste like, well, a mistake. Not this wine. It has just enough added complexity from the skin contact to make it an all-around winner. And the Barbera is just a great mouthful of berries and figs.

This is a great winery to check out, especially if you are interested in experiencing some out-of-the-ordinary California wines. Or, if you just like really good ones.

Idlewild Wines
132 Plaza St
Healdsburg, CA 95448

Perlis Picks: Jaxon Keys Winery

December 1, 2018 by Michael Perlis

Karen and I were planning to revisit Santa Rosa / Sonoma County just a little over a year removed from our last ill-fated visit.

While working on scheduling appointments, I started thinking that maybe last time turned out the way it did because we were somehow being punished for not visiting our good friend and extremely talented winemaker Antoine Favero. I jest, of course, but I wasn’t going to take any chances either. Besides, we hadn’t seen Antoine in a couple of years so meeting up with him seemed like a great idea regardless.

We’d visited with Antoine a couple of times at Mazzocco in the Dry Creek Valley where the focus is on Zinfandel – and incredible Zins they are. But knowing that Antoine makes the wine for some of the other wineries in the Wilson Artisan Wines family, we asked him where else we might meet. Antoine suggested either Jaxon Keys for Rhone varietals or Soda Rock for Bordeaux varietals.

As Rhone varietals are right up there with Zins as my favorite grapes, I naturally said: “Jaxon Keys, please.”

Jaxon Keys Winery is at the southern end of Mendocino County. Lest you think that is far, the drive took less than an hour from our home base for this trip in Santa Rosa. Driving north on Highway 101, we passed Healdsburg and the northern edge of Sonoma County and found ourselves in the foothills of Mendocino County, then passing a few other wineries before arriving at our destination.

We met with Antoine in the private tasting lounge in the winery itself, separate from the tasting room. The lounge also houses the distillery but more on this later.

As Antoine knew that we were interested in focusing on the Rhone varietals that he makes at Jaxon Keys he set up a great sampling of what he does there with those.

We started with the 2017 Viognier, which we felt was a delicious take on this varietal, free from the mistake [in my opinion] that winemakers often make with Viognier – residual sugar. None here and we got to experience a clean, dry wine with plenty of fruit.

Then we moved on to the red Rhones.

We started with the 2016 Grenache, a tasty lighter style of this grape and perfect way to segue to the…

2016 Syrah – Antoine said that it’s the best Syrah he’s every worked with and that sure showed in the glass. My note just says “wow”.

We finished with a very interesting wine: the 2016 GPS is a blend of Grenache, Primitivo and Syrah. I’ve never tasted this particular blend anywhere else and I doubt if you have either. It turns out they work really well together.

While we tasted, Karen and I had the opportunity to chat with Antoine about the winery. The Wilsons acquired the property in 2009. Before that it had a long history, most recently as Jepson Winery, which you may have heard of. The Wilsons renamed it Jaxon Keys Winery & Distillery, after Ken Wilson’s grandfathers. Total acreage is about 1200, with about 100 acres planted. Production is entirely Estate at about 2500 cases. Antoine said that like many small wineries that own vineyards, much of the grape crop is sold to other wineries. Antoine took over winemaking and vineyard management duties at Jaxon Keys fairly recently and has found an ongoing challenge as the wines become popular to balance the needs of other wineries that purchase the grapes with making sure that there is enough wine for retail customers and club members.

Since we were sitting next to the historic still, it seemed proper to finish our tasting with some brandy. Renowned [and now primarily retired] distiller Hubert Germain-Robin consults on this side of the business and the brandy is made in a historic Alambic Pot still from Cognac, France using primarily the French Columbard grapes grown on the property. We tasted through three levels of brandy [5-7 years old, 7-10 years old, and 15 years and older]. I enjoy brandy but admittedly have little expertise in it. But this stuff was smooth and tasty. They also make some very high-end bottlings as well.

Our visit with Antoine was coming to a close; it was harvest and he needed to get back to his real work. He introduced us to Jessie in the tasting room because I really wanted to taste the Jaxon Keys Zinfandels. Admittedly, we had come for the Rhones but I am the Zinfan after all. Besides, I already knew that Antoine’s Zins are legendary regardless of the label on the bottle.

Of course, I wasn’t disappointed. Especially delicious were the 2016 Mae’s Block Zinfandel and the 2016 Brandy Barrel Aged Zinfandel. We bought some of each as well as that Viognier we had tasted earlier. We wanted to buy the other wines that we had tasted with Antoine, but he had apparently shared with us what were pretty much the last bottles available of these wines. That’s what happens with great small-production wines. We can’t wait to try the next vintage.

A comment about pricing, which I rarely discuss. I believe a wine should stand on its own, regardless of what it costs. I don’t feel it is up to me to opine on the business model of a winery. That being said, I need to say that these wines are remarkably underpriced for wines of this quality. When I expressed that opinion to Jessie in the tasting room, she said “Welcome to Mendocino County.” Indeed.

Jaxon Keys Winery & Distillery
10400 South Hwy 101
Hopland, CA 95449