Spain’s Greatest Destination Winery: Abadia Retuerta LeDomaine Part Two – The Pairing

February 22, 2019 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Last week I wrote about the Abadia Retuerta LeDomaine Hotel, Winery, Refectorio and Santuario Spa north of Madrid, Spain after a splendid meeting with their General Manager Enrique Valero Quintana. I introduced readers to Tesse in West Hollywood, where our meeting took place, and gave you some information on their wine store. This week I will finish up by sharing the menu and wines that we tasted in the luncheon. (If you’d like to see the photos of the dishes and more click here.)

Our final course, DRY-AGED TBONE, and all of the wines.

Wine Reviews and Luncheon

HAMACHI CRUDO

sudachi, gooseberry, crispy wild rice

2016 Le Domaine Sauvignon Blanc/Verdejo

Lovely round mouthfeel filled with lush tropical bruit, pebbles and a mildly sweet finish. Some found the pairing to have a bit too much sharp citrus in the dish, but the fish was so fine and clean I felt that it worked, the wine served its purpose to rinse away the citrus and allow me to linger over the tender fish.

BURRATA

Oregon porcini duxelles, port, roquette

2014 Pago Negralada Tempranillo

2012 Pago Negralada Tempranillo

2014: This was my favorite in the tasting for the beautiful balance of plum and blackberry fruit and the tannins, followed by chocolate, coffee. (When I mentioned this at the end of our luncheon Quintana, who wouldn’t state his favorite said that the 2014 was the winemaker’s favorite as well.)

2012: A bit drier than the 2014, probably due to age and vineyard conditions that year, also showed darker black fruit, green peppercorn and tannins. The dish of smooth and creamy Burrata complemented both wines very well.

BEEF TARTARE “A L’HUILE D’OLIVE”

caper berries, shallots, grana padano, chive aioli

2004 Pago Negralada Tempranillo (Magnum)

The 2004 was Port-like, dried berries, dark cherry, tannic and a superb balance. The wine expanded some of the spice of the tartare; and this proved to be my favorite dish in the luncheon.

PORK BELLY

charred carrots, brown butter, boudon noir (blood sausage)

2015 Pago Valdebellón Cabernet Sauvignon

Lots of spice on this wine, then came rich dark fruit and cinnamon. This was quite a decadent dish with incredible richness from both the pork belly and blood sausage. I found that the char on the pork belly was quite enhanced by the wine, allowing for a sweetness to escape. I started to wish I had been there not for a wine luncheon where I could only taste, I wanted to linger over these pairings and finish all of the wines.

DRY-AGED TBONE

“old style” Pistou, charred broccolini, waffle potatoes, beef jus

2014 Abadia Retuerta Petit Verdot

Surprised to find red, blue and black fruits all on the palate – and very velvety – as well as spice, pepper. The T-bone was incredible. This again was a pairing I wish I could have completely consumed.

Tesse

From Ogron I learned that Tesse and the wine store is his “baby.” Eighty percent of the wine inventory is not sold elsewhere, and he hopes to get the “winemaker collector series (from Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine) if Enrique agrees.” I asked about the corkage fee if one were to buy from the store to have with their meal and learned that it is only $15.

From the website

Tesse is a French restaurant featuring the dynamic, continental-inspired cuisine of Chef Raphael Francois and Pastry Chef Sally Camacho Mueller, served in a chic dining room on Sunset Boulevard in the heart of West Hollywood. An extensive wine program from Jordan Ogron is supplemented by Boutellier, an exclusive wine store adjacent to the restaurant. A French-leaning craft cocktail program designed by Nick Meyer and Julian Cox is offered at the bar.

The restaurant’s name is a contraction of the French delicatesse, meaning ‘delicacy’ or ‘thoughtfulness’ — it’s also used across France as a colloquial term for charcuterie. And while the iconic pâtés, terrines, rillettes and saucisses of his homeland are central to the menu, Chef Raphael also features a broad and finessed take on French classics, with meats and fish prepared on the wood-fired hearth that anchors the kitchen and lighter fare inspired by near-daily trips to LA’s outstanding Farmers Markets.

Tesse’s menu is designed with wine in mind. The food pairs beautifully with a vast, interactive wine program designed by Jordan Ogron, which features nearly thirty wines by the glass and a list of more than three thousand selections. For those who prefer something a bit stronger, the craft cocktail program was designed by Nick Meyer and Julian Cox, the duo behind many of the most notable bar programs in Los Angeles.

https://www.tesserestaurant.com/

Abadia Retuerta Winery

The internationally recognized wines of Abadía Retuerta have enjoyed three consecutive years in the top 100 wines of the world, according the preeminent authority, Wine Spectator. While wines were produced on the estate centuries ago, the current winery is only two-and-a-half decades old and is known for its award-winning single terroir wines. The initial planting took place in 1991 with the first wines coming the following year. The estate covers 700 hectares of which 210 have been allocated to the vine, lying over a set of hillsides that reach a maximum height of 850 metres before sloping down to the southern bank of the Duero River…

The winery’s gold-standard wine is the Selección Especial, which reflects the essence of the estate – 75% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Proof of its superb quality, the 2001 Selección Especial was awarded “Best Red Wine in the World – Red Wine Trophy” in 2005 by London’s prestigious International Wine Challenge competition. In addition, Selección Especial is the first Spanish wine to be included for three consecutive years on the list of the 100 Best Wines in the World, which has been published annually since 1988 by highly regarded Wine Spectator magazine.

Other wines produced at Abadía Retuerta include: Pago Negralada, made with the best Tempranilla vineyard on the estate; Pago Valdebellón, from Cabernet Sauvignon; Pago Garduňa, a very intense, clean, fruity and mineral Syrah; and PV (Petit Verdot), an elegant wine with a limited production of 1,000 bottles per vintage.

The 2012 vintage of Pago Negralada and Petit Verdot have been ranked among “the greats” with 97 and 98 points respectively, according to the Gourmets Guide. For the 2014 vintage, Robert Parker Wine Advocate awarded Pago Negralada 92 points and Petit Verdot 93 points, along with 92 points for Pago Garduña and 93 points for Pago Valdebellón, which also won the Top Medal Master granted by The Drink Business Global Cabernet Sauvignon. Blanco Le Domaine 2016 scored 93 points in the Peñín Guide and 96 points in Guía Gourmets.

Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine

www.ledomaine.es

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

HALL’S CABERNET COOKOFF RETURNS FOR TENTH YEAR

February 17, 2019 by evebushman Leave a Comment

ST. HELENA, CALIFORNIA – HALL, one of the world’s most notable Cabernet Sauvignon producers, has announced plans for its tenth annual Cabernet Cookoff to return on Saturday, April 27 at HALL St. Helena. Hosted by Vintner Kathryn Hall, the annual event will feature an impressive lineup of renowned Bay Area Chef teams vying for a chance to win proceeds for a charity of their choice by participating in a food and wine pairing competition. 100% of ticket proceeds benefit non-profit organizations as selected by the winning chef teams. The event includes a VIP Preview from 11 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. prior to the Main Event which takes place from 12 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.

At the “Selfie Station” at HALL Wines during a past Cookoff event

“This event makes a difference for many lives in our community,” says Vintner Kathryn Hall. “So many people come together to celebrate passion for food and wine, and in the end, local non-profits garner awareness and proceeds. Everyone participating comes out a winner.”

Fifteen chef teams are tasked to create a small dish that they feel pairs best with 2015 HALL Ellie’s Cabernet Sauvignon, a top-rated wine that has earned praise from the wine industry’s top critics. Guests in attendance will sample all pairings to vote on the People’s Choice Awards, and a star-studded panel of celebrity judges will taste to vote for the Judge’s Choice Awards. In total, four winners will be announced. Participating chef teams include One Market, Bounty Hunter Wine Bar & Smokin’ BBQ, Brix, Goose & Gander, Intercontinental Mark Hopkins, Paula Le Duc Fine Catering, Archetype, Acacia House, KAIYŌ, Harvest Table, PRESS, Blossom Catering Company, Chef Ryan Barnett, and more.

Prior to the Main Event, there will be a one-hour VIP Preview will feature a live cooking demonstration taking place in the Mezzanine of HALL’s St. Helena Tasting Room. Chef Ari Taymor, winner of Iron Chef 2018 and voted one of People’s Most Sexiest Chefs Alive, has signed on to headline a lively cooking demonstration alongside Kathryn Hall. This event is SOLD OUT.

Natalie Morales, TODAY West Coast Anchor and Host of Access, has been announced as the official Emcee for the event. Morales will help wrangle in the crowd with event happenings day-of as well as help announce the winners alongside host Kathryn Hall. The 2019 Judging panel includes Actress Wendi McLendon-Covey, Television personality Shep Rose, Michelin-rated Chef, Ken Frank, La Toque, and Wine Critic Virginie Boone with Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

Actress and star of the CBS’s The Neighborhood, Beth Behrs, returns to the event as the Charity Champion, sharing news about her non-profit organization, She Herd Power, as well as the other fifteen non-profits in attendance hoping to win funds from the event. Each chef team selects a charity of their choice for which they are competing – this year’s line-up of non-profits include: Napa Humane, Soroptimist International of Vallejo, Hands Across The Valley, Grace Cathedral, St. Helena Hospital, CIA Scholarship Fund, Voices – Foster Care for Independence, Community Resources for Children, Collabria Care, to name a few.

Event sponsors include Microsoft, Corkcicle, Nixon-Peabody, Colorscience, Frank Rimerman + Co, Cypress Grove Cheese Company, Imprezziv, Print Inkorporated, Signum Architecture, and more. VIP Tickets are available for $200pp and includes access to the Main Event. The General Admission Ticket for the Main Event is available to purchase for $125.

Saturday, April 27, 2019

VIP Preview featuring Chef Ari Taymor: 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. (SOLD OUT)

Main Event: 12:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.

HALL St. Helena

401 St. Helena Hwy. S

St. Helena, CA 94574

(707) 967-2626

Tickets Available: www.hallwines.com/cabernetcookoff

The 2018 HALL Cabernet Cookoff drew more than 800 attendees for a sold-out crowd and raised $90,000 for local charities. Since inception in 2010, the HALL Cabernet Cookoff has raised $800,000 for Napa Valley non-profit organizations. For more information, please visit www.hallwines.com/cabernetcookoff or via social channels using #cabernetcookoff.

HALL Wines: The Art of Cabernet

HALL produces award-winning Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, available to taste and purchase at two properties in Napa Valley as well as at hallwines.com. Owned by Craig and Kathryn Hall, its vineyard collection features eight Estate vineyards, of which five are Certified Organic (CCOF). Led by Vice President and head winemaker Steve Leveque, HALL’s portfolio includes 19 distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings highlighting the finest vineyards and sub-appellations of the Napa Valley. The HALL St. Helena winery was the first LEED® Gold Certified Winery in the State of California in 2009 and earned another LEED® Gold certification for its high tech production facility and Tasting Room in 2014, making HALL a leader in green efficiencies. HALL’s 2008 ‘Kathryn Hall’ Cabernet earned the #2 spot in Wine Spectator’s “Top 100.” Two other bottlings, the ‘Exzellenz’ and ‘Rainin Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignons have garnered multiple 100 point ratings in recent years. For more information about HALL, please visit www.hallwines.com or by calling 707.967.2626. @hallwines #artofcabernet.

The 10th Annual “STARS of Cabernet”

October 13, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Beverly Hills – Were you aware that Cabernet Sauvignon, the most cultivated grape in the world, is the result of a marriage between the Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc grape varietals?

In celebration of Cabernet Sauvignon, “STARS of Cabernet” is the premier tasting event of the year! More than 30 of the best Cabernet producing wineries in California–and the world, will showcase their Cabernets and other wine varieties. Come and taste over 100 different wines hailing from Napa, Sonoma, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, France, Argentina and Chile.

List of wineries set to pour: Wines of South Africa, Trujillo Wines, Vineyard 29, Alpha Omega, Palazzo Wine, Frank Family Vineyards, Roy Estate, CAMi Vineyards, Bernardus Winery, Addendum, Allegretto Wines, Hawk and Horse Vineyards, axr, Hestan Vineyards, Jonata, Ladera Vineyards, Moraga Bel Air, Roca Family Vineyards, Hertelendy, The Debate, Clark-Claudon Vineyards, Michael Rolland, Duckhorn Vineyards. Merryvale Vineyards, JACK Winery, Almaviva Winery, S.R. Tonella Cellars, The Unfiltered Collection, VGS Chateau Potella & many more!

The evening will commence at 6pm with a VIP-access-only vintage tasting, followed by a PENINSULA catered dinner buffet- Acquaint yourself with the world of Cabernet while enjoying exquisite tray-passed appetizers! From 9-9:30pm, guests will enjoy a delicious dessert after-party.

A silent auction containing collectable and large format wines will benefit The TJ Martell Foundation–the music industry’s largest entity funding innovative medical research focused on finding cures for leukemia, cancer and AIDS, as well as sourcing/supporting early-stage research projects aimed at developing more effective clinical treatments for patients who otherwise cannot afford a panacea. Learn more at tjmartell.org.

Tickets now on sale!
For information and ticket purchasing, please visit Stars of Cabernet. STARS of Cabernet thanks its generous sponsors: Peninsula Hotel, Los Angeles Magazine, Evian, Robb Report, The Somm Journal and Tasting Panel Magazine.

About Peninsula Hotel:

The only AAA Five Diamond and Forbes Five Star-rated hotel in Southern California every year since 1993, The Peninsula Beverly Hills offers 194 guest rooms, including 38 suites and 16 private villas, nestled among lush tropical gardens in the heart of Beverly Hills. The Peninsula is located at the intersection of Wilshire and South Santa Monica Boulevards and within comfortable walking distance from the legendary Rodeo Drive.

About WineLA:

WineLA is about enhancing the wine culture of Los Angeles one event at a time. To do so, wine must be in rhythm with fashion, music, food and other beverages. It must take advantage of the geography, the architecture and the centers of interest. Los Angeles is a giant playground with an amazing array of venues, spaces, wine bars, restaurants, beaches, rooftops, gardens, and magical views. We are a part of the LA lifestyle, the wine lifestyle, and celebrate the people, the place and the passion.

Vintage Eve Circa Jan 2009: Sick of Wine and Chocolate

October 12, 2018 by evebushman 2 Comments

When home sick with the flu as a kid, my mom brought me home a Hershey bar by way of compensation for missing….school? As an adult it’s decidedly different. Eddie doesn’t bring me home candy (or flowers for that matter) when my taste buds are standing erect on my tongue and my throat is lined with an imaginary army of itchy…things.

So what do I get in compensation for missing…wine?

If Eddie were to bring home a bottle of say…let me check my wine log…St. Francis 1999 Cabernet, my palate wouldn’t know this was the bottle I didn’t rate so highly (it had gone cellared too long).

Wine, like chocolate, is lost on a person with a cold. They don’t work because you need a clear nose to enjoy both. Try holding your nose and trying either, it’s freakish. And forget about enjoying the finish. Might as well be forcing down a piece of bark with tepid water.

But I deserve something that did taste good Mom, err I mean, Eddie.

An “angry” single-malt Scotch, the real peaty kind, that I never did go in for still didn’t work now. But my other favorites did: Balvenie 10 or 12 year old, Aberlour 16 year old or a 15 year old Glenfiddich. The alcohol may have served to dry my throat but the numbing affect on the same itchy column did the trick.

My Domaine de Canton (DDC) Martini was the best choice by far. A vodka martini (we like Imperia) with DDC ginger liqueur replacing the vermouth. DDC tastes like candied ginger and ginger is good for a sore throat! Ta Da!

So, in closing, it’s 5:17, the husband is no where in sight, so I guess I have to drag my wretchedly sick body into the kitchen to ice the martini glasses myself. At least I don’t have to worry about him bringing me anything.

Post Script: It’s 6:22, he’s late, I tossed some brandy into my hot cider and it worked in a pinch. But there will be single malt sometime tonight!

Vintage Eve Circa 8/2008: Meeting Local Winemakers

October 5, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

My husband Eddie and I spending a day wine tasting in Santa Clarita (SCV) is not news. But wine tasting at two different vineyards within ten minutes of our house in SCV is.

Chris and Jeannie Carpenter of Newhall have a cellar I have long coveted. Free standing and temperature controlled, with an attached sitting room, it is normally filled with exceptional wine. But on this day it was also filled with oak barrels to sample from and a “wine thief” (think classy turkey baster) to sample with.

Me interviewing Jeannie Carpenter, a few years after this article was written.

“We have what you call a collective co-op,” Chris began. “Three couples and a single winemaker. We had 500 pounds of Cabernet that we made into 30 gallons. Two 26 gallon half barrels – they’re easier to move and hold plenty of wine anyway -makes about 35 bottles per couple.”

“The grapes are all from a local grower in Bouquet Canyon. During the crush the grapes are ‘popped’, cleaned, covered, slosh around in a truck getting here and then we ferment it for a month with the skins on.”

“Our ‘Lost Pruners’ vintage was the last one we made. We will age the new one in American oak for about 4-5 more months. The wood softens the wine, but we have the remaining juice in glass containers. If it happens to be too ‘oaky’, we’ll blend them to taste. We are also making a Barolo style from 100% Nebbiolo grapes from Santa Ynez. It will be a little drier and needs one more year before taking home.”

At this point Chris checks his composition book to tell us that his “Cabernet Tempranillo was first bottled in July of 07.”

We asked how in the heck he learned how to do this and he said, “Reading a lot and learning by mistakes. I also tried to do everything my favorite winemaker from Saxum did; right down to picking his brain and planting the same grapes. The 200 vines we’re growing are Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre that we’ll use to make a Southern Rhone-style blend. I’ve learned a lot from collaborating with my friend, Roman Weiser (another Newhall grower) on the crafting of these wines.”

We reluctantly head away from the cellar and out to take a look at the vines. Jeannie took charge of our tour then. “I plan of having Assistance League fundraisers here,” Jeannie said. “To support our community.”

She then introduced us to her brother-in-law, Tim Carpenter, who had named the “Compa Vineyards” in memory of his dog, who was lovingly seen as a true “compadre”.

“You can come back for the grape stomp,” Chris added. “We may do that next time. Until then we let the grapes drop, to give structure to our 2009 harvest.” We’re there.

Then, back in the car, we drove ten minutes to Two Hearts Vineyard, this time into the hills above Hasley Canyon and to the beautiful home of Kerry and Susie (not Suzie Q.) Clark. And, even though they were in the midst of preparing for a wedding, it didn’t prevent them from being gracious hosts to an impromptu wine tasting.

With a 4 year old all organic vineyard they have just a bit over 200 vines. Growing Rhone reds, Primitivo, Cabernet and Barbera; whites include Colombard, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and White Malvasia.

“We are strictly amateur winemakers for now so we either drink our wine or give it away,” Susie reported. “We also buy grapes (Paso, Santa Barbara, and Lodi), and juice (Napa, Washington, Australia and Austria) and even use wine kits. We have won quite a few awards for our wine in the past few years. Last month we received 5 medals at the 2008 Wine Maker International Amateur Wine Competition.”

“There were over 4,300 entries from 6 different countries making it the largest wine competition of any kind – commercial or amateur – in North America. Our 2006 Cat Canyon Santa Barbara County Sangiovese won a gold medal and the 06 Sangio-Cab blend took a silver. The 2006 and 2007 Gruner-Veltliner both took gold medals and the 07 Viognier got a silver. Our wines have won awards at other competitions including the California State Fair and the L.A. Cellarmasters U.S. Winemaking Competition”.

“We enjoy the competitions as professional judges give us feedback on our wines”.

It was a hell of a tasting. I had a hard time pouring out any of the wines Kerry had us taste. But the warm weather, excellent learning experience along with the subtle cheeses, fruits and meats, all increased our pairing experience.

“It all happened by accident,” Kerry explained. “We were invited to go to Napa and all I thought was that I didn’t need any auto parts.” There was a jokester in this winemaker. “Now we have a hard time taking a vacation at all because we can’t predict when the grapes are going to be ready for pick up, tasting and testing.”

“I enjoy writing the labels,” Kerry said. “I think every wine has a story to tell. My labels help tell the story of what’s in the bottle. Wine should be fun!” My husband read one of his quips, “Be a mellow fellow – drink Bordello Verdello” on the 2006 Mullaro Creek and “GRU-V” the 2006 Gruner Veltliner.

“Making wine isn’t hard,” Kerry continues, “But making good wine is. We started making small batches of beer before we lived in this house. And it was actually more complex with grinding grains and adding caramel. We had names like Brain Dead Red and Liver Killer Lager. Beer should be fun too!”

“We are also very green conscious: This is not a Rombauer Chardonnay, it’s my French Colombard, and we just reused the bottle.” Other wine making tips include oak cubes and stays and a cold fermentation process that “keeps the whites delicate.”
“In blending my own wines I can make my own decisions and make them consistent, I’m a slave to nature. But we don’t try to strong arm our grapes to taste a certain way, we go where the grapes take us.”

So do I.

Upcoming Classes from The Wine House WLA

September 16, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

The Wine House is thrilled to be named one of ten of the “World’s Best Wine Shops” in Food & Wine! In addition to being described as a “wine geek’s dream destination” with modest markups and excellent small-production offerings, we were noted for having “an impressive lineup of classes.” Here are our current offerings!

SUMMARY OF UPCOMING WINE HOUSE CLASSES AND EVENTS

In-Store Tasting of Sicilian Wines from Passopisciaro
Monday, September 17, $20

Planeta Wine Dinner with Alessio Planeta at Upstairs 2
Tuesday, September 18, $115

International Grenache Day In-Store Tasting *NEW*
Friday, September 21, 3 to 7 PM, Only $1 (No reservation required, just stop by TASTE)

Sake Fest
Sunday, September 23, $55

What You Absolutely Need to Know About Wine
Monday, September 24, $58

In-Store Wine Safari
Wednesday, October 3, $40

Scotch: Introduction to Single Malt Whisky
Friday, October 5, $79

Italian Wine Specialist Certificate in Four Parts
October 7, 13, 20 and 27, $675

Italian Sangiovese In-Depth
Monday, October 8, $55

WSET Level 2 Intermediate Award in Wines & Spirits
Begins October 14, $795

The 35th Annual Cabernet Fest
Sunday, October 28, General Admission $75; V.I.P. $99

The Circuitous Path from Network News to Fine Wine, by Tim Ortman (Part Three, Concludes Next Week)

June 21, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

After a fruitful overseas run with NBC News, I returned to Chicago where, with the support of NBC and other news operations, I created a production company to continue covering the news. At this point, it had been seven years since I’d left the U.S. and I realized a lot had changed. I discovered two publications dedicated solely to wine coverage. Imagine that. What was next? An all-sports network, or one dedicated to cooking?

As I read through those magazines, I found that a plethora of ink had been devoted to the much-heralded back-to-back ’89 and ’90 vintages in Bordeaux. While I knew nothing of this French region, review after review screamed that these were must-have wines. I had just grasped Brunello di Montalcino and was now confronted with the much larger and more complex right and left bank. Once again, I had to dive in. There was no turning back. Would it ever end?

Of course, the correct answer is no.

Once again, my professional TV life intersected with my burgeoning wine life. I was hired to produce a project on the growing wine auction business and invited to sample some of the Bordeaux and Burgundies being auctioned. There was that dirt component again from my earlier run-in with French reds. But this time, coupled with ripe fruit from great vintages, I found it was delicious. If a picture is worth a thousand words, a taste is worth ten thousand words, and after that auction project, I was a hopeless collector – with all of our available funds going into the cellar. Brunello, Bordeaux, and Burgundy would soon be followed with Napa Cabs, Barolo, Barabresco, Rioja and Priorate.

My cellar was growing and diversifying, and so too was my occupation. After decades of globe-trotting network news coverage, I was looking for television work that seemed less perilous and closer to home. I began to replace my exhausting news career with a new and popular format called reality TV. Work was plentiful and the compensation rewarding. But, I quickly discovered that there was nothing real about reality TV, and it proved to be even more exhausting than network news. It was decided. After 25 years in TV, I needed a break from television.

Living in Southern California and enjoying the fruits of my second marriage to a highly successful corporate executive who was also a fan of fine wine, I had the luxury of choosing a ‘second act’ without jeopardizing our financial solvency. We discussed a possible detour on my career path and agreed wine was my only other true passion – an avenue worth pursuing while I pressed the pause button on TV. But where to begin?

Retail shop clerk or cellar rat didn’t appeal to me, and I didn’t have the resume for the restaurant biz. Distribution or sales would be a radical departure, but perhaps something I could manage. I took a job as a sales rep for a prestigious importer and distributor with an impressive portfolio of wines. Learning the portfolio would be daunting but doable. But acquiring ‘street cred’ would be tougher. I soon found out “Emmy award-winning cameraman and producer” made for a meaningless introduction in the wine world. I had to get new credentials.

(Editor’s Note: This story is broken into four parts, please return to this website on the same weekday next week for part four, the conclusion.)

Tim Ortman is an Emmy Award-winning cameraman and producer and author of the new book, Newsreal: A View Through the Lens When… He is a certified Sommelier and member of La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. Connect with him on Facebook, @TimOrtmanWriter.

The Circuitous Path from Network News to Fine Wine, by Tim Ortman (Part One)

June 7, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Many roads can lead to a real love of wine. And I’m not talking about flirting with Chardonnay because “everyone else is doing it.” Or, a casual steakhouse affair with a glass of Cab, after which you return to your beloved Vodka martini. Nope. I’m talking about the head-turning, life altering, seminal moment many have experienced that plunges them head-first into a mesmerizing and totally foreign journey. The moment from which there’s no turning back.

I was a content and happy-go-lucky 25-year-old cameraman working in Chicago, the city of broad shoulders, and slowly becoming polished in my profession if still a bit culturally frayed around the edges. With so many deep-dish pizzerias and Italian beef options, I was leery, even fearful of fine dining where wine was a four-letter word. However, my Chicago bliss was rudely interrupted.

Unknown to me, I had been evaluated and selected for a life-changing upgrade. My talents (not my sophistication, I promise you) were deemed worthy of a promotion… a big one. As a result, my wife and I packed up and headed for Europe, where I would join the International Press Corps. as a staff cameraman and member of the NBC News Frankfurt bureau.

From the outset, the job was a dream come true. I was traveling through all of Europe (and the world, too, soon enough) covering news for a major American news network. But when I would gather with my colleagues for crew lunches, or when my wife and I would join friends for dinner, we felt like the gourmet’s version of a square peg in a round hole. Trying to blend in, we replaced my Coke and her Sprite with bottles of something called ‘mineral water’. (Who came up with that name, by the way, and was it intended to sound appealing?) And the meals were marathons. Lunches could last THREE HOURS and dinners often had no end in sight. The common thread throughout went something like this: once seated, a senior colleague, usually European, would utter some unidentifiable words to our waiter and, like clockwork, completely different bottles would appear. Their labels seemed to contain a secret code of uninterpretable French or, God forbid, German writing. Deciphering these codes was foolhardy at best and maddening at worst. Instead, we mimicked our friends and my coworkers and forced down the ubiquitous liquid, pretending to enjoy every drop. At least we no longer stuck out like sore American thumbs.

Eventually, I broke from the pack of lemmings and realized that I actually liked some of what I was imbibing. My taste – or ‘palate’ – leaned more to the white stuff over the red. I noticed that the white wines with French labels were subtly different from one another but generally tasted good. Those with German labels were generally off-puttingly sweet. And the red stuff with French labels just tasted like dirt. But the learning curve was mind-numbing and intimidating. What was the difference between a Pouilly Fuisse and a Pouilly Fume? And, what was a Pouilly to begin with? Asking such questions in a public forum would reveal me as the ignorant American rube that I was. Instead, I’d need to keep quiet and steal glances at labels when no one noticed.

(Editor’s Note: This story is broken into four parts, please return to this website on the same weekday next week for part two.)

Montana: Uncorking the West at Triple Creek Ranch

April 29, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Darby, Montana – Extraordinary wines are at the heart of the guest experience year-round at Triple Creek Ranch, the Relais & Châteaux luxury hideaway in the Montana Rockies.

Each May, the Ranch takes its award-winning wine program to another level with the Annual Spring Vintner Series, when over the course of a long weekend, guests enjoy wine tastings with the featured vintner as well as wine pairing dinners orchestrated by Chef Jacob Leatherman and Sommelier Jeremy White. During Vintner Events, guests also have a unique opportunity to enjoy ranch activities alongside these preeminent vintners, from cooking classes with the Culinary Team, including Executive Chef Jacob Leatherman and Executive Pastry Chef Natasha Platt, to a scavenger hunt and line dancing. Outdoor options include fly-fishing, horseback riding, hiking and guided nature tours. The Vintner Series program includes on-ranch activities and meals under all-inclusive rates that start at $1,050 per night per private cabin, based on double occupancy.

A consecutive winner of Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence since 2005 and a yearly Best Of, Award of Excellence from the publication since 2012, this year marks the 15^th anniversary of the Annual Spring Vintner Series at Triple Creek Ranch and it promises to be memorable:

Spottswoode May 10 – 13, 2018

Famed for their Cabernet Sauvignon, the remarkable Novak women of the Spottswoode Family Wine Estate have been producing wines known for their refined elegance, balance, and classic structure since 1982.

Hill Family Estate May 17 – 20, 2018

After three decades of farming grapes for some of Napa Valley’s finest wine producers, Doug Hill and his family decided that they should enter the wine business. The Hill Family Estate is the culmination of Doug’s vision to share his love of the valley, of farming and of wine with his children and wine lovers everywhere.

Chappellet Winery May 24 – 27, 2018

For nearly five decades, the Chappellet family has been crafting acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignons from fruit cultivated on the steep, rocky slopes of Napa Valley’s renowned Pritchard Hill. The Memorial Day long weekend has become synonymous with Cyril and Blakesley Chappellet at Triple Creek Ranch.

Triple Creek Ranch is located in Darby, Montana, in the Bitterroot Range of the Rocky Mountains. It was ranked among the top 10 hotels in the World in the Travel + Leisure 2017 World’s Best Awards and named one of the Top Resorts in the West in the 30th annual Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards. An all-inclusive retreat for adults and children sixteen years and older, Triple Creek Ranch is a member of Relais & Châteaux and Virtuoso as well as an Orvis-endorsed fly fishing lodge. Rates start at $1,050 per couple, per night, based on double occupancy and includes a private log cabin, all meals, house wines, spirits and beers, and a range of outdoor activities including horseback riding, fly fishing, cooking classes, skijoring and more. For reservations, contact info@triplecreekranch.com or 800-654-2943.For more information visit www.triplecreekranch.com

PERLIS PICKS: NAPA AT LAST LIGHT

April 28, 2018 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

The book Napa at Last Light by James Conaway was very hard to read. Not because it was poorly written. Far from it. Mr. Conaway is an excellent writer, having authored thirteen books as well as having been published in numerous magazines. This book, subtitled “America’s Eden in an Age of Calamity”, is the most recent installment of what is called his Napa trilogy, which started with Napa: The Story of an American Eden and continued with The Far Side of Eden: New Money, Old Land, and the Battle for Napa Valley.

So when I say it is hard to read, it is because the third volume, unlike a certain other famous trilogy, reads like “Sauron” is on his way to winning and that is sad.

Not one to pull punches, Conaway writes about the large corporate interests as well as the millionaire vanity vintners who threaten to take over Napa Valley, using up its twin scarce resources of land and water in the search to produce the next high scoring Cabernet. Providing much detail about the political intrigue and machinations involved, he’s not afraid to name names either. [I’ll leave those for the reader to discover.]

Personally, I wish he would have spent more time on people like Steve Matthiasson, who emerges in the book [to continue the analogy from above] as a possible real-life “Frodo Baggins”, or perhaps more aptly “Samwise Gamgee”. There are a few other heroes presented as well, probably most notably Randy Dunn of Dunn Vineyards.

I’m not naïve enough to suggest that development is all bad and that money is the root of all evil. Personally, Napa is not our usual stomping ground, but in the wine regions that Karen and I frequent we’ve seen plenty of inroads from wealthy people who have caught the wine bug, as well as from corporate interests. We tend to favor the smaller wineries, some of which hang on by a shoestring. Yet, I’m not ashamed that some of our favorites are also from people who made their fortune in other walks of life and have the financial wherewithal to invest significantly in their winemaking operations.

I also believe that for smaller wineries to be successful, Direct-To-Consumer sales are critical, versus giving away profits in multi-tier distribution systems. But, DTC usually requires visitors and visitor facilities use land. And the addition of event centers enables wineries to attract more visitors and generate more revenue. Commerce, ultimately, is the end goal in order to keep the winery operations going.

But there is no denying the issues that Conaway discusses. Land and water are finite.

Climate change is real. And there are certain political forces at various levels of government that are seeking to reduce environmental protections.

Some people say that Mr. Conaway has gone too far. They say he only presents one side of the issues and doesn’t tell the whole story. Personally, I’m not qualified to judge. I do know that voices like James Conaway’s are important to keep the conversation going.

And while this is referred to as the final volume of the Napa trilogy, I’m hoping for at least one more installment – with some good news.

Napa at Last Light: America’s Eden in an Age of Calamity

By James Conaway

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.