A Last Supper with You, and, Circle of Hope (Vintage Beacon Circa 12/09)

October 7, 2014 by evebushman

Judy Penman, former to you but current for me, Woman of the Year for Santa Clarita, invited me to a recent Circle of Hope fundraiser at Vino 100 last weekend.

Judy always greets me with a big smile and open arms (this time she handed me her homemade pomegranate jam that I’m re-gifting in hubby’s Christmas stocking) as she sees me as her personal advocate.

The fact is that I’ve come to be known around town as the wine writer that will go to any event, and write about any event, that highlights a charity. (I have a tough time saying no to the wine part too…)

Judy Penman is in the center, wearing the long necklace.

The Last Suppers

On hand for this fundraiser, hosted by Lil Lepore and Shari Frazier, was Andrew Caldwell, author of The Last Suppers, a book that tells the real – and sometimes imaginary – last meal of renowned people. (Another gift for hubby.) The group had a few questions and Andrew had lots of answers.

What’s this book about? “You need three things to be in my book,” began the robustly friendly UK writer. “You have to die tragically, have been a headline maker and finish with a great meal.”

Give us an example? We all know who Attila the Hun was. But did you know that after he rampaged Champagne and left 500,000 dead, that their bodies were only covered with a thin layer of dirt and left? Their bones and minerals are what some people believe contribute to the great taste of Champagne!

What’s your “Cover” story? I had 6 different covers made for the book so you can choose which you like. One has Princess Diana with a frying pan while another features Napoleon with a rolling pin.

And where does wine fit in? I paired the wine with what I know about each character and have made and tested all of the meals that are featured in the chapters.

Where have you been, and where are you going? It’s been a great book tour. I’ve been to 36 cities in 39 days. By Valentines Day I am starting a series on the Discovery channel and will be on Letterman and Oprah.

Finally, why are you giving some or your profits away? When my mother got cancer it cost about 40,000 a month for her health care. (She passed away last year.) I wanted to give back, so I wrote this book and am sharing my profits with local non-profits like Circle of Hope.”

(My last supper would have to be: wine, paired with friends I take with me. Ones I met that day and enjoyed wine with were Christine, Elle and Steve.)

Vino 100

So, what was the wine for this event? L.A. Cetto Chenin Blanc, Baja; Sphere Chardonnay – Monterey, Ca.; Hope Shiraz – Australia; and McManis Zinfandel – Lodi.

“The white from Baja, very mild and nice,” stated Judy Penman. “But the best was the McMannis Zin for $14.” I agreed with Judy on the Zin and bought a bottle of that and several other gifties before I left.

Circle of Hope

The mission of Circle of Hope, Inc, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit charity, is to provide emotional support and financial assistance for medical expenses for uninsured and underinsured individuals with Breast Cancer who live in, work in, or receive treatment in the Santa Clarita Valley,

Individuals with breast cancer are sometimes unable to work due to side effects of treatment. They may be unable to pay their normal bills due to the high costs of medications, co-payments, or insurance premiums. Some will not qualify for public assistance programs during cancer treatments. These financial burdens are devastating to individuals struggling with breast cancer.

Patients should be able to focus on recovery, not debts. Circle of Hope wants to help.

Circle of Hope, Inc. believes that providing financial and emotional support will improve the quality of life and increase the individual’s chance of success in their battle against breast cancer.

http://www.circleofhopeinc.org/

Summer Wines That Will Astound You – by Scott Richardson

June 12, 2014 by evebushman

Each year around this time I think about how I want to stock up my little wine collection with the wines that will amaze… no … astound any guests that visit throughout the “dog days of summer.” This year is no exception… except I’ll keep it simple. I want to get back to the basics with those varieties that scream, “Hey I’m still here… remember me!”

Scott’s burger for his Cashmere.

Here is a short list of wines I’ll be keeping around … ones that are the “go-to” wines when we have a drop-in guest at our house or if we’re putting on a soiree for our neighbors. Listen, it’s not a long list, so go to your local wine store and pick up these wines and enjoy! All but one of these wines, you should be able to purchase fairly easily.
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Pine Ridge – Chenin Blanc/Viognier Blend 2012 – This wine has some great crispiness and ripe peachy stone fruits at the same time. I buy a case or two just in case I have more people who like white wines than red. Perfect with grilled salmon or a simple hummus, olives, cheese and crackers.
Kim Crawford – Sauvignon Blanc 2010 – Herbaceous aromas with lime and some tropical fruits on the palate. Show me the mussels and oysters with this wine. It’s a great bottle to take to a friend’s get-together or drink late at night at the pool.
If you can find Edmeads Zinfandel 2008 grab a case… Winemaker David Ready, Jr., adds some Petite Sirah and Syrah to give this amazingly lewd, berry-driven Zinfandel its Pizzazz. This wine would pair well with some smelly cheese such as Stilton, Stinky Bishop, or even Brie de Meaux.
Mosella Riesling 2007 Kabinett Feinherb ($22) is most likely my favorite Riesling of all time. It is impossible to find outside of Florida.
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Mark Wallraff, the wine producer is a personal friend (a little bias)… he only makes Rieslings from 100% juice… no added sugar like the other producers in Germany. You wanna try this, e-mail me and I will send you the details to order. This wine is perfect with some fruit and cheeses, Thai food, or sushi.
Cashmere by Cline Cellars ($18-$20). Listen, get any Cashmere and it is awesome wine for almost any dish you can produce. Unfortunately the early years are all sold out. Still I recently tasted the 2012 and it is amazing with a blend of Granache, Mourvedre and Petite Sirah with some cherry, raspberry and chocolate, and hints of cracked black pepper. In my opinion this wine can stand up to a grilled T-bone steak and yet can be seductively elusive with a delicate poached snapper or some homemade sliders.

However you choose to spend your summer, stock up on some great wines for yourself and your guests.

Cheers!

Scott Richardson has been in the hotel and restaurant business for almost 30 years. His love for producing remarkable food and service evolved to his love for all things wine. Scott has worked at many prestigious locations including The Cavendish Hotel, in London England and The Grove Park Inn and Resorts in Asheville, NC, as well as Walt Disney World and Universal Orlando Resorts as General Manger of several restaurants. His culinary background and his love for wine pushed into the teaching profession with University of Central Florida’s Rosen School of Hospitality Management, Valencia College, Johnson and Wales University and New England Culinary Institute, where he wrote Advanced Food and Wine Pairing, currently being offered as part of the school’s BS in Food and Beverage Management degree. If that was not enough, Scott is also a volunteer judge at several food and wine festivals in Central Florida throughout the year. In his spare time, Scott writes for The Park Press, his column “The Educated Palate” can be found at www.theparkpress.com. Scott is currently pursuing his passion in wine by working towards his PhD in Hospitality Leadership with research in the wine tourism industry. Scott can be reached at scott@theparkpress.com or you can follow him on Twitter @1educatedpalate.

South Africa: Think Global, Drink Local

April 10, 2014 by evebushman

Just east of Cape Town is one of South Africa’s most prolific wine regions. Known as “Winelands,” it is a seemingly mystical land conjured from a fantasy tale. The landscape is fringed with craggy mountains whose peaks ascend high into the clouds. Green valleys are dotted with 300 year old camphor trees, fields of flowers that eventually lead to a seemingly endless sea of grape vines. For the better part of 10 days, long time friend, Elena Boiko and I have been exploring the region with fellow sommelier, Kayla Derckson.

Kayla is a proud South African who knows her country’s wines. She also grew up in the Cape area and speaks English, Afrikaans, Xhosa. and Zulu. South Africa actually has 11 official languages. These are Afrikaans, English, Niedebele, Northern Sotho, Sotho, Swazi, Tswana, Tsonga, Vende, Xhosa, and Zulu. Not to mention scores of unofficial tongues. It seems that South Africa is not called the rainbow nation for nothing. This school of thought seems to have also crossed over in to South Africa’s philosophy on wine. Most vintners would agree with the maxim, “Think global, drink local.”

Today we have joined Kayla in her home away from home, the ever popular waterfront restaurant and wine bar, Belthazar. The restaurant is known for its steaks and a selection of over 600 wines, and 200 served by the glass.

For our first selection, Kayla decided on a sparkling wine. Graham Beck Brut NV is produced in the ‘methode champenoise’ manner and made under the supervision of the legendary, Pieter “Bubbles” Ferreira. It is a blend of 58% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir. The grapes are from South Africa’s renown, Robertson region. In the glass, our Brut is alive with bubbles. The nose is very fresh and laced with aromas of apple, white peach, pear, lime, cherry, and just a whisper of ginger. On the palate, the wine is light-bodied with medium acidity, and good balance. White and citrus fruits abound, followed by notes of brioche and mineral. The finish is accented by the taste of a racy lime powder that was quite enjoyable. The alcohol content is 13% with a bottle price of $22.

“Good quality for the price,” Elena gave a nod of approval.

“A tad aggressive,” I paused for effect. “However, once it settled down I found this Brut enjoyable.”

“I often enjoy Graham Beck as an aperitif,” Kayla paused to collect her thoughts. “I would also serve this wine with grilled seafood or Oysters Rockefeller.”

“Impilo,” I toasted Kayla in the Xhosa language as I refilled our glasses.

“Enkosi,” she thanked me in Zulu.” I remember you had mentioned you always wanted to learn the Zulu language.”

“I once befriended a South African tennis player by the name of Johan Kriek,” I smiled in fond reflection. “Johan spoke Afrikaans, English, German, and Zulu.”

“Don’t get him started,” Elena playfully warned. “He only knows around a dozen or so words in Zulu.”

“But are they the right twelve words?” Kayla broke out in laughter as she brushed back her long golden hair.

For our next selection, Kayla selected a 2007 Bellingham Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc thrives in South Africa and is seen as second only to the Loire Valley. Bellingham is renown for its Old Vine Chenin Blanc. The 40 year old, high altitude vines, produce wonderfully concentrated rich fruit. In the glass, the wine is an alluring dark yellow. The nose is a wonderful concentration of rich, ripe fruit with aromas of peach, apricot, cream, and honey that fill out the bouquet.

On the palate, this Chenin Blanc shows medium body, and full flavored. There are ample amounts of rich fruit that concentrate around flavors that suggest pineapple. There is also a floral edge that is followed by a nutty almond quality. The finish is creamy and pleasurable. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a bottle price of $15.

“I liked the fruitiness of this wine,” Elena was first to speak. “An excellent wine to serve as an aperitif.”

“The wine showed some good oak,” I was quick to break in. “I liked the subtle nutty qualities. Kayla, with what dishes would you pair this Chenin Blanc?”

“Fish pie, creamy mushroom pasta,” she paused lightly. Most any dish with a creamy white sauce.”

Our next selection is a classic that is synonymous with wines from South Africa. Kayla selected a 2008 Beyerskloof Pinotage. What exactly is Pinotage? This is a wine that is a cross between Cinsault and Pinot Noir. In the past, Pinotage had a reputation, as did most South African wines, of inconsistent quality and tasting of burnt rubber. These days, Pinotage has come of age. In the glass, our Beyerskloof is a shimmering and dense blood red. The nose is floral scented and accented with juicy red fruit, cherry, spices, topped off by ample mushrooms bearing a dusty quality. The palate is quite tannic, however, it opens up with air. We decanted the wine for a full hour. The 2008 shows medium body. The rich, sweet, red fruit is balanced with deeper dark notes of black cherry, spice, and an earthiness that provides for good balance. The finish is robust and remarkably elegant. The alcohol content is 14% with a bottle price of $15.

“I am pleasantly surprised,” Elena’s eyes crinkled as she smiled. “Plenty of good fruit and much more complex than I would have thought.”

“The 2008 Beyerskloof has very good aging potential,” I paused momentarily. “I would say over the next 15-20 years.”

“I especially like this Pinotage with roasted meats,” Kayla paused before going on. Roast pork or more specifically, roast pork belly.”

“Is the 2008 100% Pinotage?” Elena queried?

“Indeed it is,” Kayla openly showed her pride.

For our last selection, Kayla decided on a Morganhof Cape Late Bottled Vintage. This challenger to Portugal’s Duoro Valley is 100% Tinta Barroca grapes. In the glass, our Port is a rich amber in color. The nose is filled with aromas of black cherry, licorice, raisins, and walnuts. These scents follow through to the palate.

Filled with velvety tannins, rich ripe fruit, and ample oak, the Morganhof displays its perfect balance. The finish is rich and succulent. The alcohol content is 17.5% with a bottle price of $20.

“Very good fruit on this fortified wine,” Elena moistened her lips as she began. “I particularly liked the flavor of ripe damsons.

“Definitely a Port to challenge the wines of Duoro Valley,” I was pleasurably surprised.

“I have found the Morganhof to pair best with cheese, or a hearty Cuban cigar,” Kayla began chuckling. “Elena, take it from me, this Port is at its best with chocolate pudding.”

We all broke out into laughter, when after several moments of merriment, I inquired about dinner.

“What would you like to eat?” Kayla asked softly.

“Well,” I smiled. “You did mention that the Belthazar is also known for its steaks.”

“But that my friends, is another story …. “

Pairing Wines with the Other White Meat

December 26, 2013 by evebushman

Dinner with close friends is always a special affair. Tonight we enjoyed Pork Tenderloin Cordon Bleau with mushrooms and mustard cream sauce. Pork tenderloin is one of the best pork cuts. For me, it is the “Chateaubriand” of pork. As for the wine …we paired our feast with a lovely white Burgundy … What? White wine with pork? Sacraledge! Or is it?

Though often referred to as the “other white meat,” what wines actually pair best with pork? Pork has undergone a huge change over the past few decades. In order to select the best wine with pork, the first thing we must take into consideration is preparation. If our pork has been roasted it, is only logical to pair roasted meats with red wines. However, let me be the first to challenge this rationale. A very nice Old Vine Chenin Blanc would pair very nicely. The secret is to serve the wine very cold. Step out of your comfort zone and try a wonderful wine from South Africa. The 2010 Tormentoso is only $14 a bottle and a good beginning.

In this article, I would like to focus on those white wines that are a perfect compliment to the other white meat. When pairing wines with dishes, I always take into consideration texture, sauces, and spices. Remember, our objective is to enhance and fully bring out the flavors of our meal. A popular dish in Lviv is pork with apple sauce. I have found that a Pinot Gris with good pear fruit like New Zealand’s 2012 Neudorf Maggies Block is very competative at $20 a bottle. Perhaps a toasty Chardonnay is more your palate. A 2009 MacMurry definitely enhances the dish’s flavors and is only $14 a bottle.

I am often asked what pairs best with sweet and sour pork (my family has a penchant for Cantonese cuisine) My sister is quick to grab for a Merlot Rose. However, my immediate thoughts are to go with an off dry Riesling. A 2011 Domaine Albert Mann Cuvee Albert at $30 should do nicely. Also consider a very elegant Chardonnay. My preference would be a 2010 Stag’s Leap Karia. The wine has excellent balance, minimal oak, and only $22 a bottle. Let’s not rule out a very fruity white such as a Colombard. A 2010 from France’s COX Vinyards is just $20 a bottle. A Semillon Chardonnay would also compliment the dish. A 2012 from Australia’s Jacob’s Creek is a classic pairing and a mere $13 bottle.

When it comes to garlic pork, it is best to go with fresh whites. An Arneis like a 2012 Cantina del Castello di Santa Vittoria from Piedmonte is an excellent choice at only $20 a bottle. Should Viognier better suit your palate, I’d recommend a 2012 Ruthglen Viognier. Even though this wine is from down under, it is priced competitively at $20 a bottle. With pork dumplings, a Riesling like Dreissigacker is a good go to wine. The 2008 Rhinehessen slightly favors the dry side, but I just love this great organic Riesling. It is priced at only $20 a bottle. Let’s be bold. Try a Spanish Torrontes. My reccomendation would be 2012 Vina Mein. Young and ready, it is a good buy at $20 a bottle. Argentina also produces some exceptional Torrontes. Piattelli Cayafete Premium is a lovely wine at only $15 a bottle. With spicy pork, the spice and light sweetness of a Gewürztraminer, like a 1999 Trimbach Cuvee des Seigneurs de Riaupierre at $30 a bottle will best compliment this dish.

As for herbal pork, a creamy Chardonnay with notes of apple, citrus, and oak won’t overwhelm the mild herbal flavors. Try a wonderful wine from California’s Russian River Valley, a Marimar Estate 2010 Acero Don Miguel Vineyard. At $30 a bottle, this unoaked Chardonnay exudes a creaminess that is unparalleled.

What about pork loin, you ask? An excellent choice would be from California’s Napa Valley. A 2009 Pinot Blanc from Robert Foley Vineyards is an ideal choice at $25 a bottle. If you are feeling Italian and musical, try a Prosecco. I have no doubt that our resident Prosecco enthusiast, Eve Bushman, can guide you to some wonderful selections. (Editor/Eve note: I’m no Prosecco enthusiast, however, when I make my Aperol Spritz I do tend to choose and inexpensive Prosecco.)

In Europe, we eat a lot of sausages. With pork sausage, to capture its flavors, it is best to go with a rich Pinot Gris. My first pick is a Trois Chateaux Kunz-Bas. It is rich, ripe, and incredibly luscious and only $25 a bottle. King Estate of Oregon’s Willamette Valley is the benchmark for this Oregon style of wine. The 2011 Domaine Pinot Gris is a worthwhile buy at $40 a bottle. A spicy Viognier like a 2010 Triennes Saint Fleur. At $20 a bottle, it is a wonderful buy. Aged Semillon is Australia’s gift to the wine world, and Hunter Valley produces some of the best. My pick would be a 2013 Brockenwood Semillon. At only $25 a bottle, it is sure to warm the cockles of your heart.

Moving right along, we come to some very traditional pork dishes like the classic pork chop. For this pairing I’d like you consider stretching your boundaries. Try a 2008 Inama Vin Soave Classico from Italy. This lovely white wine is 100% Garganega grapes, and is a perfect match that makes the meal fruitier and livelier.

Ever popular over the holidays and Sunday dinner with family, is the ham. It is important to remember that the wine’s fruit and acidity must must balance with the smoke and saltiness of the ham. Gewürztraminer is a safe choice. As is a Pinot Gris from Alsace, or even a Santa Barbara County Chardonnay from Melville. However, my pick would be a 2002 Basserman-Jordan Spatlese Pfalz Forster Jesuitengarten. This is a very good value at $25 a bottle. It is fortunate for us that they did not calculate the price by the length of the name.

Today we explored our pairing options with some very diverse wines from around the world. Once again I challenge you to think outside the box and expand your horizons. Like I always tell my sister, the worst that could possibly happen is that the pairing won’t be to your palate.

As for the wine we enjoyed with our tenderloin dinner. We selected a 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet Vielles Vignes from Domaine Vincent & Francois. At $50 a bottle, the wine was a perfect accompaniment to the evening.

Now if you really want to think outside the box, try a Mendocino, California Chardonnay. A 2010 Bliss Family Vineyard would be my next selection. This is a crisp and elegant wine that Grandpa Irv assures me is as versatile as a Swiss Army Knife. This gem of a wine is only $13 a bottle … “But that my friends, is a different story …”

What’s in the Bag for Grape of the Night (GOTN)

December 9, 2013 by evebushman

What’s in the bag? That is the question that was asked of the GOTN folks at our last tasting. Most of the active members have been with the group for quite a while and are fairly savvy wine drinkers. So I ask you, what better way to challenge our wine senses than to sample and analyze wines that are covered and unknown to the participants? Each couple/member was asked to bring a wine to the tasting in a bag and was numbered so that the person that brought the wine would not spill the beans.

Blind tasting for me is the ultimate. The key advantage is that it forces everyone to rely on their senses rather than label, price point or rating. The best way to attack an unknown is to follow a defined path to get to the answer. In my line of work we call that a fishbone. As you see or find a certain key feature it eliminates many items that do not fit. So let’s walk through a simple process. For our blind tasting, no information was provided (100% blind).

Look at what the wine shows you from a visual perspective with a good light or against a white paper. Look at the color as all varietals have a distinct color. For example, Rieslings are white where typical chardonnays are yellow to golden. On the red side, most pinot noirs are lighter than say your big cabs which are very dark. Some wines, like Petite Sirah, can be dark purple.

Next, twirl the wine. Does it form long legs or none at all? Long legs will show viscosity of the wine and if it has a high glycerin level. The legs are indicative of the alcoholic content of the wine. Remembering that warmer climates produce higher alcohol and cooler temperatures produce lower alcohol you have more information to help with your fishbone. Big, thick long legs would point more toward warm climates like Australia even though many Paso Zins are not far behind. If there are little or no legs we could look at terroirs like Germany and regions of France that are much cooler and therefore the wines have less alcohol.

Wine pigment is also helpful in providing information. Older wines both white and red display certain pigments. Whites tend to gain color with age. Depending on the varietals they can go from white or straw to almost golden. Look at the example below of the much sought after Chateau Yquem sauterne that has a lot of age, the left is a 1999 and the right a 1973. They appear to be different wines yet they are the same wine only different vintages.

Reds are a little different. They develop a garnet to crimson color which is indicative of oxygen and the aging process. Very old reds from Bordeaux, France as well as aged cabernets from California, show these pigment changes. Though the French wines can and do age much longer the color is very obvious.

Now that you have some details on the wine that are helping you to discover and proclaim where the wine is from and what it is, let’s move to the next important method of analyzing the wine, smell.

In my reading I found that the nose can detect about 180 different aromas verses only 5 for tastes. Most of us are familiar with the common smell of many of the wines we drink. For example, the green apple in viognier, citrus in chardonnays, cherry in pinots, blueberry in syrah, etc. This can really help in dialing in on the wine.

Finally we have taste. Refer to the aromas though the nose and palate may be total opposites for some wines with regards to smell and taste. Is the wine high in acidity or tannins? Is it sweet? What fruits do you taste? Is there spice, leather, vanilla, etc, etc, etc? Is the wine a fruit bomb (New World) that slaps you in the face or are the flavors of the fruit subtle (Old World)? Old world wines do not have the fruit bombs but are very subtle and layered with flavors. Remember that the environment in France is much cooler than California or Australia. Differences can also be found between California and Washington or Oregon though not as pronounced. Looking at whites, acidity can be a good indicator.

It is not easy to do this. It is frustrating at times but you need to treat each challenge as an adventure and learning experience. Following is a list of wines brought by the group:

2011 Chappellet Chenin Blanc – Napa Valley (Eastern Hill)

Aroma: Floral, pineapple, meyer lemon and honeysuckle

Palate: Pineapple, Orange peel, bright and lively mouth feel

2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stepping Stone Winery – Napa Valley

Aroma: Dark Cherry

Palate: Tobacco, stone and dark cherry

2009 Nebiolo D’Alba – Terredavino Italy

Aroma: Light and delicate

Palate: Dark cherry and firm tannins

2010 Kaena Rhone Grenache– Santa Ynez

Aroma: Barnyard

Palate: Red cherry, medium tannins and light minerals on the finish

2008 Allegrini Palazzo Del Torre – Italy

Aroma: Black plum

Palate: Blackberry, black fruits and refined tannins

This testing of our senses, where we are not influenced by the label, allowed us to sharpen our senses. When I was watching the group going through their own individual rituals with each wine, I noticed that everyone was intensely reviewing the wines to try and solve the fishbone. We will do this again. I was impressed by everyone’s involvement.

Thanks again to Valencia Wine Company for hosting our GOTN gatherings. You guys are the greatest and a standard for wine bars within the valley that is difficult to compete with.

Cheers,

Rusty Sly

Some French Wines that are a Must Try

August 29, 2013 by evebushman

Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Ivelisse Negroni. We are in the small historical town of Samur in the French region of Pays de la Loire. This area is renown for its chateaus and of course, their wine. From our patio table, we have a lovely view of the plaza square. We are enjoying a bottle of Pouilly Fume. This is an excellent white wine with one major drawback. It is only sold within the immediate province. We have been recalling some of our favorite wine stories. One that I particularly like to recount took place some years ago, while I was a distributor in California. I was tasting Chilean wines with the head wine buyer at one of Los Angeles’ leading wine retailers when Carlton, one of the store’s sales reps, approached Esteban and I with a question.

“I have a question,” Carlton’s tone was one of uncertainty. “My customer is looking for a bottle of wine, but she can’t remember the name.”

“It is the wine that is so popular with the ladies for lunch,” she was quick to break in.

Esteban and I turned to the customer in question, and without hesitation replied, “Rombauer.”

“You guys are great! All three of you,” she took Carlton by the arm. “Please find me a bottle.”

Once he was free, Carlton returned to thank us for our help. “How did you guys know which wine she wanted?”

As head wine buyer, it is my responsibility to have readily available those wines that our customers enjoy,” Esteban was first to reply.

“Gregory, surely this wine is not your palate, so how did you know?” Carlton queried.

“It is inconsequential what is or isn’t my palate. Frankly, preference is subjective,” I chuckled under my breath as I paused for effect. “Like Esteban, I must know what people like, yet encourage them to take a step outside the box, and try new and different styles of wines.”

I often share this story, not to praise Esteban or myself, I share it because we inspired Carlton to open his mind to new ideas. Today, Carlton is a sommelier in one of LA’s most cutting-edge fusion restaurants. Much too often people pigeon-hole their palates and continue to drink the same wines, day in, and day out.

Not to mention those people who get caught up in “the wine of the moment.” Much too often we find ourselves seeking only those mainstream labels because we fancy ourselves chic. When I come home to Los Angeles for a visit, I notice that my family and friends are quick to serve California wines. In Europe, not much changes. People are quick to serve local popular wines. Even in my own household, I am quick to pop open a bottle of Italian or Georgian wine.

One of the things that I most enjoy while exploring the wines of any country, is rediscovering those priceless gems that I have not enjoyed for awhile. France is a perfect example. There are so many styles of wine that are relatively unknown outside of the country. France has a long history of viticulture that predates the Romans so it is interesting to and fun to explore their wine traditions. Here are a few gems that are readily available on the international market. I highly recommend you hold off on that bottle of Chardonnay, step out of the box, and have a bit of summer fun with these varietals.

Mauzac is a very popular grape varietal in Southwestern France, and prevails in the regions of Gaillac and Limoux. Locally it is known as Mauzac Blanc. In Gaillac, there is a move to produce more wines of quality to increase their exports. Typically, producers in Gaillac have used Mauzac to make aromatic sparkling wines that are soft and mildly sweet on the palate. While in Limoux, Mauzac is often used in blending. The popular Blanquette de Limoux, blends Mauzac with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc to create this renown style of wine. Mauzac is ever prestigious with the French and is one of the few white grape varietals that is allowed to be blended with Bordeaux.

Ivelisse selected as our first wine of the tasting, Robert & Bernard Plagoles Mauzac Nature Sparkling 2010. In the glass, our Mauzac is slightly cloudy with only gentle bubbles. The nose is delicate with prevailing scents of citrus. On the palate, it is off dry, textured, and balanced. There are generous amounts of apple and pear that round out its flavor profile. There is a beautiful and natural acidity that finishes with a kiss of sweetness. The alcohol content is 12% with a price tag of $45.

“Most people are not aware that Mauzac actually predates Champagne, and was first produced in Gaillac in the 16^th century,” I spoke in a tone that was matter of fact. “Perhaps you should also explain to our readers the method for making this style of wine.”

“But of course,” Ivelisse smiled with antication. “It is known as Methode Gaillacoise or Methode Rurale. Quite simply, the wine is put into the bottle before it has fermented dry. It is this continued fermentation process that gives the wine its bubbles.”

“I find Mauzac to be a very enjoyable sparkling wine and very different from Champagne.”

“For me, Mauzac works best when served as an aperitif,” Ivelisse smiled as she poured us both another glass.

Ugnic Blanc is a varietal that prevails throughout southern France. In Languedoc and Provence, winegrowers like it for its freshness. It is often used as a base for many blends dry white wines. It is distinguishable by its banana aroma. In Cognac, it is known as “Saint-Emillon,” and the predominant grape varietal in making fine brandies.

Ivelisse selected a La Cadence ugnic Blanc 2012. In the glass, it is a glossy pale yellow. On the nose, there is a distinct freshness in the bouquet. The prevailing aromas are blooming flowers and citrus fruits. On the palate, our Ugni Blanc is quite lively. There are notes of herbs and apples and the wine’s soft texture is followed by a vibrant and fresh finish. The alcohol content is 11% with a price tag of $10.

“I enjoyed the liveliness of this Ugni Blanc,” Ivelisse’s eyes brightened as she smiled.“ Very refreshing.”

“I liked its finish,” I paused, moistening my lips.“ Quite flavorful.”

“Since this wine is zesty and refreshing, I would pair it with flaky fish,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “In this way, the wine will balance the delicate fish flavor.”

Bourgogne Aligote is a light white wine that is often referred to as “Burgundy’s other white grape.” It is beloved by the local people, and since it does not age all that well, many enjoy Aligote as their daily drinker.

Ivelisse chose an A & P Domaine de Villaine Bouzeron 2010. This is a great summer wine. In the glass, it is a light straw color and displays an enticing liveliness. On the nose, it blooms with the scent of fresh flowers, apples, and lemons. There is also a very slight hint of chalk. On the palate, it is crisp and acidic, with a very nice balance of fruit, herbs, and minerals. This charming wine finishes with nice acidity and beckons you to drink more. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $25.

“Definitely the best example of Burgundian Aligote,” I gave a nod of approval. “If we we order shellfish for dinner, this is the wine.”

“Definitely a very good wine that is enjoyable and easy to drink,” Ivelisse paused slightly. “I would serve Aligote as an aperitif. It would also pair nicely with cheese.”

“What cheeses would you select?” I queried.

“I would serve Charolais or Maconnais,” Ivelisse flashed me an almost too delightful smile.

“On that note, I’m famished.” I gave her a quick nod and a wink. “Where shall we eat?”

“I know a quaint little café within walking distance that I am sure you will enjoy,” she smiled brightly.

So did we pair Aligote with shellfish or did Ivelisse win out and we enjoyed the wine as an aperitif … “That my friends, is another story.”

Vouvray: The Flagship Chenin Blanc

August 22, 2013 by evebushman

The Loire Valley has been producing wines ever since the Romans settled the region back in the 1^st century. By the 5^th century, Loire had flourished into a premier viticultural region whose wines were highly prized throughout the ancient world. During the Middle Ages, it is interesting to point out that the wines of Loire were more highly prized than their contemporaries from Bordeaux.

Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Ivelisse Negroni. We are in the city of Tours to enjoy some of the region’s local wines. Whenever I am asked to recommend a sweeter white wine, Vouvray immediately comes to mind. However, though fruit forward, not all Vouvray is sweet. This “Right Bank“ wine ranges in styles from dry and austere to the richest dessert wines as well as excellent sparkling wines. Vouvray, “Pineau de la Loire,” as it is known to the French, is made exclusively from Chenin Blanc.

So what makes Vouvray so special? It simply has a remarkably long life. Wines of quality that have been cellared for 30 years often show incredible freshness and liveliness.

Our first selection, Marc Bredif Vouvray 2010 is a very stylish wine. In the glass, this slightly effervescent wine is a light straw yellow. On the nose, it displays an intense fruitiness that is filled with notes of white flowers. The palate is filled with the flavors of apricots, nectarines, and honeydew, while the over all juiciness of the wine prevails. There is also a secondary trace of almonds that I found pleasant. Though the wine’s fruity characteristics prevail, it finishes dry and clean. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $20.

“Marc Bredif is very nice on a warm summer evening,” Ivelisse flashed a quick grin as she spoke in her usual light tone. “This is an ideal match for white fish or sushi.”

“I particularly enjoyed this wine’s mouthfeel and found the finish to be lingering and pleasant,” I would even consider pairing it with baked ham.”

Our next selection, Francois Chidaine Les Argiles Vouvray 2011 is bright and lively in the glass. On the nose, it is filled with citrus fruits dominated by orange blossoms. There are also subtle herbal hints with a pleasurable nuttiness. On the palate, the mouthfeel is on the drier side with clean lines and fresh acidity. It is complex and filled with an array of minerals. The finish is long and fruity. It is 100% Chenin Blanc and from 40 year old certified organic vines from the Loire Valley. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“This wine will pair best with mild poultry dishes,” Ivelisse paused to collect her thoughts. “As for fish, perhaps the best choice would be halibut.”

“Definitely a wine that will age gracefully,” I clearly displayed my pleasure with her selection.

Our last wine, Domaine S.A Huet 2007 is more dry than medium and is wonderfully concentrated. In the glass, its coloring is golden and depicts the “Old World” style. On the nose, the bouquet is filled with an assortment of citrus fruits with lemon and lime prevailing. There are also floral, green-apple, and mineral notes. On the palate, there are abundant flavors of honey, spice, lemon, and sweet pear. It is a wine that is bright and vivid in character. I also found it to be a well- integrated wine with an elegant and long finish. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $60.

“Excellent wine,” Ivelisse flashed me a wide beaming grin. “Definitely pairs well with chicken, fish, and shellfish.. I especially enjoy it with scallops.

“I like the subtle nuances of this wine. One to sip and enjoy,” I nodded in agreement. I would share this fine 2007 on a quiet evening at home with that very special person.”

“For such an evening, I would pair Vovray with cheese,” Ivelisse paused on the moment to collect her thoughts. “I should think, Cabecou, Camembert, Crottin de Chavignot, and Livarot.”

“All would pair nicely,” I patted her hand lightly.

“Is that a hint?” Ivelisse giggled softly.

But that my friends, is a different story …”