Perlis Picks: The Garagiste Festival in Glendale (Part One)

July 20, 2019 by Michael Perlis

Think about one of your favorite wines. What goes into your decision to make it your favorite? Is it the varietal? The region it comes from? The terroir? The year? The label? There may be multiple reasons. I that, at least for me, a big one is passion – the passion of the vintner, winemaker, grower, everyone who worked so hard to get that wine into the bottle for you.

And nothing speaks wine passion more than the Garagiste Festivals. We at Eve’s Wine 101 have a special affinity for them, having reported on the Garagistes from the beginning, including my interview with co-founder Doug Minnick before the very first event in 2011 in Paso Robles, which Karen and I also attended. Focusing on ultra-small (and then therefore ultra-rare) production wineries, the festivals have now expanded to four annual events – Paso Robles, Solvang, Sonoma and (conveniently for locals) Los Angeles.

We’ve definitely attended our share of these over the years. They’ve now had about two dozen events in total and the passion of these winemakers is clear. More so than with a large big-budget winery, the owner/winemaker typically has to handle all or most of the tasks of the winemaking process, sometimes in addition to what their day job might be.

By the way, you may have noticed the word “garagiste” being used a lot more lately; I sure have. The Garagiste Festival doesn’t own the term, it goes back to the originally somewhat derogatory French word for small winemakers. And I can’t say for sure that the increased usage of the term overall is connected to the success of the Garagiste Festivals, although I would tend to think so. After all, they were voted the best wine festival in America. So, if you want to be sure you are supporting the real deal, go to their website and sign up for their newsletters.

Karen and I attended the latest LA event, held at the Glendale Civic Auditorium. In keeping with the LA theme, the Saturday event started with a seminar presented by three LA based wineries working to bring back to LA County an industry that used to dominate the landscape in the days before prohibition and real estate development.

Hosted by Steward McLennan, one of the founders of the Garagiste Festival, the seminar presenters were Patrick Kelley of Cavaletti Vineyards, Jasper Dickson and Amy Luftig Viste of Angeleno Wine Co. and Mark and Jenny Blatty of Byron Blatty Wines. All three wineries get a significant amount of their grapes from Los Angeles County. The Blatty wines are made in the Santa Clarita Valley and Angeleno is in the process of finalizing its tasting room and winery operations in downtown Los Angeles.

Of course, it was a wine seminar, so there was wine.

Each winery poured two wines, in the following order, lightest to heaviest:

Cavaletti Vineyards –

2018 109 Mile Rose (62% Grenache, 38% Tempranillo)

2017 Grenache, Swayze Vineyard

Angeleno Wine Co. –

2017 Zanja Madre (Grenache and Tempranillo)

2017 Syrah, Alonso Family Vineyard

Byron Blatty Wines –

2017 Undertake (60% Zinfandel, 25% Petite Sirah, 10% Merlot, 5% Syrah)

2016 Pragmatic (90% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot)

For me, the takeaway from these wines is that Los Angeles County is capable of producing a variety of styles of high quality wines. Truly something for everybody.

The winery owners all shared stories of trials and tribulations. Their individual stories varied, but they all included one common component – the challenge of teaching potential customers, retail stores and restaurants about the quality of wine coming from LA County. One might think they are fighting an uphill battle but they appear to be winning it; that takes passion! I expect the LA winery scene to continue to grow and prosper and I know of at least one cult-status winemaker who is planning to set up shop soon – more on this in a future article, hopefully.

Of course, the Garagiste Festival isn’t just about Los Angeles. The grand tasting after the seminar featured over 50 wineries from all over California, 23 of which also poured the previous evening at the Rare & Reserve kick-off party – shout out to Fired Up Chef Services for the great BBQ buffet dinner that accompanied this. More on the wines in Part 2 which will run on this site next Saturday, 7/27.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also President of MCP Financial, which provides outsourced controller services. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or mcpfinancial@aol.com.

Garagiste Glendale: “Garagiste Goes Local: The Rebirth of the LA Wine Industry” Seminar and a Shout Out to…?

July 12, 2019 by evebushman

Already aware of LA County wines as have been drinking some for years, some from this seminar, and others, like Golden Star Vineyards and Byron Blatty, due to tasting them at Santa Clarita Valley events. Our class was led by Garagiste co-founder Stewart McLennan and included Patrick Kelley from Cavaletti Vineyard, Jasper Dickson and Amy Luftig Viste from Angeleno Wine Company and Mark and Jenny Blatty from Byron Blatty Wines. (We were also presented with six samples, two from each winery, that we would taste at the close of the discussion.)

Panelists l to r: Patrick Kelley, Cavaletti Vineyards; Amy Luftig Viste and Jasper Dickson, Angeleno Wine Company; Mark and Jenny Blatty, Bryon Blatty Wines.

We started with a bit of a bio from each or the panelists then Stewart asked about challenges, and to share a bit of history of LA winemaking. I’ve grouped together answers to all of theses questions by each panelist:

Patrick Kelley, Cavaletti Vineyard

BIO: Patrick has a BA in biology, attended business school, lived in San Fernando Valley for 10 years, then moved to Ventura where he started making wine “without plans to make wine” his business. Now he’s up to 600 cases and this is his second time at Garagiste.

CHALLENGES: Finding customers that accept LA County Wines is his biggest challenge as its “unknown brands in unknown region.” So events like Garagiste help to get his “wine in front of customers.”

HISTORY: The climate is dry, water is available, but Phylloxera hit the region just like in Napa. The vineyards that did exist, a few thousand in San Pedro, pretty much shut down in the 1960s.

Amy Luftig Viste, Angeleno Wine Company

BIO: Amy has a degree in public health and continues to work in that field. She fell in love with wine, took some courses at UCLA and found herself most interested in winemaking and the Central Coast where she did some interning. Over a few Mimosas with Jasper the two came up with a plan to start their own winery in LA. This was when she “was the happiest she has ever been.”

CHALLENGES: Opening a winery in downtown Los Angeles has been her biggest challenge. But she “goes until someone says they can’t.” Gaining advocates from city government helped.

Jasper Dickson, Angeleno Wine Company

BIO: Jasper boasted no degrees, was a high school dropout and worked at Silverlake Wine for ten years. Over that decade he met many winemakers at the shop and asked many questions. He started making wine in his garage at home. In 2013 he went commercial and in 2015 he had his Mimosa date with Amy.

CHALLENGES: Jasper echoed Amy’s stand on challenges, with the addition of getting lots of bank rejections in the beginning.

HISTORY: There were Spanish missionaries building missions in California as well as planting grapes. In 1859 Californians were drinking two million bottles per year.

Mark Blatty, Byron Blatty Wines

BIO: “There is a common thread,” Mark began, “and it’s that all of us here love to drink wine.” He and Jenny have a background in television production and now they are also “Executive Producers” of their wine. He’s learned that you don’t have to own it all (a winery and the vineyards) to make wine.

CHALLENGES: Consumers have zero experience or a “bad experience” with LA County wines. But when people discover the wines, and enjoy them, he feels a certain sense of pride as an Angeleno. Another challenge: those writing about wine aren’t writing about LA County Wines, so there is no book educating them.

HISTORY: Prohibition changed a lot of things in California, especially removing all of the grape vines to make room to grow citrus instead.

Jenny Blatty, Byron Blatty Wines

BIO: For Jenny it was a “daydream” and she was “obsessed with wine.” That obsession drove her to take classes and start making wines in 2013. Putting out their first vintage in 2014 – most of the grapes they picked themselves and continue to do so. That first vintage produced less than two barrels.

LA County Wine Tasting

2018 Cavaletti 109 Mile Rose, Swayze Vineyard

The Swayze Vineyard is in the Antelope Valley, next to the poppy preserve, and has very little pest presence.

Peach, grapefruit, Meyer lemon, gravel and some acidity.

2017 Cavaletti Grenache, Swayze Vineyard

Barnyard, herbaceous, olives and some tart.

2017 Angeleno Zanja Madre Grenache/Tempranillo, Alonso Family Vineyards

The name Zanja Madre translates to “Mother Ditch.”

Black fruit, spicy, green notes.

2017 Angeleno Syrah, Alonso Family Vineyards 100% Syrah

Plum, grape jam, cherry candy, balanced.

2017 Byron Blatty Undertake, Zinfandel/Petite Sirah, Merlot, Syrah.

The 5% of Syrah is from Paso fruit. This is a common winemaking theme for them: a four varietal blend of four different vineyards. And this wine – Undertake – was a big undertaking…not a nod to an undertaker.

Big, bold, spicy, red to dark fruit.

2016 Byron Blatty Pragmatic, Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot

90% Malbec, 22 months in barrel and from seven different vineyards.

A bit softer and brighter fruit than Undertake, with perfumy notes and hints of black pepper.

Shout Out to Upcoming Byron Blatty Wine Dinner at The Old Town Junction on July 25: 5 courses, 5 wines, tax and tip included for $85

“A Taste of Summer” is what they’re officially calling this remarkable collaboration. Here are the details from Eventbrite:

About this Event

Join us for an unforgettable summer evening at the Old Town Junction, on Main Street in downtown Newhall, as we present: “A Taste of Summer” wine dinner, featuring the Los Angeles wines of Byron Blatty! A Taste of Summer will be an unparalleled food and wine experience, combining the highest quality, locally sourced ingredients, cooked to perfection, and expertly paired with world-class wines grown right here in L.A. County.

Our evening will begin with canapés prepared by Chef Daniel Otto, served with a glass of Byron Blatty’s delightful Rosé from the Antelope Valley, followed by a seated, five course dinner, each paired with one of Blatty’s locally grown wines.

Chef Daniel will take you through each amazing dish, with Mark and Jenny Blatty on hand to walk you through their vision for putting Los Angeles back on the map, as one of California’s premiere wine growing regions. Blatty’s winemakers, Steve Lemley and Nate Hasper (of Newhall’s Pulchella) will also present several of these unique wines, and explain what makes them so special.

Tickets are $85 per person inclusive of tax and gratuity, $70 per person for Byron Blatty Wines Club Members. (Members will be sent a promo code for discounted tickets.)

To inquire about Membership options please email: mark@byronblatty.com, or see their website: https://byronblatty.com/membership

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

VinePair Releases Its Top 25 Rosé Wines of 2019

June 30, 2019 by evebushman

NEW YORK (Newswire.com) – VinePair – the largest and fastest-growing media brand in the world reaching the next generation of drinkers – proudly announces its top 25 rosé wines of 2019.

The list reflects the success of non-Provence pink. “The rosé market has become so varied that there are gems outside of Provence, as seen in our top two picks from Sicily and Bordeaux. These wines are very affordable and also incredibly delicious,” said VinePair’s Tastings Director Keith Beavers.

To determine which rosé wines made the list this year, Mr. Beavers issued an open call to wineries around the world to submit their rosés. Each rosé that was submitted first received an individual review from Mr. Beavers and his team. If that review garnered the wine an A- score or higher, it was then tasted a second time by VinePair’s Top 25 Rosé tasting panel of drinks professionals.

“It’s exciting to branch out of the classics and enjoy something different as we evolve as a wine culture,” Beavers said. “Rosé does not have to be from Southern France, cost more than $20, or be some kind of indie-loving ‘unicorn’ to be good and that’s a win-win for everyone.”

“As the rosé market in the United States keeps growing, we are importing excellent bottles from global producers, and making our fair share of quality rosé stateside,” Emily Saladino, Editor in Chief, VinePair, said. “It’s a really exciting time to be a pink wine fan.”

Rankings were decided based on the following criteria: all bottles had to be readily available in the U.S. None of the wines that made the previous year’s list in 2018 were considered, and VinePair places a limit on one bottle per winery.

Rounding out the top five are:

Graci Etna Rosato 2018
Chateau La Rame Bordeaux 2018
Domaine de Cala Coteaux Varois en Provence,
Beckman Vineyards Grenache Rose 2018
Inman Family Wines OGV Endless Crush Rose

Review the full list here.

About: VinePair was started four years ago by Adam Teeter and Josh Malin, two media veterans who were interested and passionate about wine, beer and cocktails but discouraged by an elitist culture. Since then, it’s turned into the largest and fastest-growing media brand in the world, reaching the next generation of drinkers with accessible, entertaining and inspiring content about drinks and the experiences people have with a glass in hand. Investors include Joanne Wilson and Zach Nelson (both original investors in Eater), Gary Vaynerchuk, New York Venture Partners (first investors in Pinterest) and Social Starts.

MARGERUM WINE COMPANY ANNOUNCES NEW TASTING ROOM IN SANTA BARBARA’S FUNK ZONE

June 26, 2019 by evebushman

Santa Barbara, California; May 28, 2019 – Doug Margerum and the Margerum Wine Company announce the opening of their new tasting room at the Hotel Californian in Santa Barbara, California. The Margerum Wine Company tasting room offers distinctive flights and wines by the glass from their premium wines produced at their state-of-the-art Buellton winery.

Leading the Margerum Wine Company team is creator and namesake, Douglas Barden Margerum, a long term Santa Barbara resident who has been a fixture in the Santa Barbara food and wine scene for over 35 years. Rani Mclean oversees the tasting room as the Direct to Consumer Manager.

Enter the MARGERUM WINE COMPANY tasting room across from the entrance to the Hotel from Mason Street, near the corner of Helena Avenue, and discover a balanced mix of quintessential Santa Barbara Spanish Colonial architecture and a multi-faceted modern style. The interior was styled by designer Marni Blau Margerum and she describes it as “where modern farmhouse meets couture boutique”. Marni’s eclectic design style centers around an expansive bar made of a reclaimed and flattened oak barrel staves from the winery. The bar is the main focal point, anchoring the spacious and exquisitely finished interior to create a naturally defined room for wine tasting and socializing.

The oak stairs lead one past the hand-forged cast-iron railings to the stunning private room that sets the stage for an unforgettable wine tasting experience in Santa Barbara. The private tasting room accommodates up to 32 people for a seated event or 50 for a stand-up reception or custom wine-tasting menu. Crafty details and sky-high ceilings are accented by the crimson red velvet curtains on the mezzanine, providing a cozy lounge for wine club members and for larger groups with reservations. Private lunches or dinner parties are available for an exceptional wine and dining experience.

The beautiful outdoor patio boasts a spectacular vantage point for lounging, wine tasting and people-watching. The patio can also be transformed into a private space for exclusive events day or night, which can accommodate up to 24 guests for an alfresco experience at this quintessential Santa Barbara wine tasting venue.

The wines are produced from their Estate vineyard and from purchased top Santa Barbara County growers to create hand-crafted wines that are indicative of the region, showcasing individual characteristics and personality of each terroir. The scale of production is kept at a level where they can touch and know the wine as it is raised to the bottle. The standards of quality are measured by their own criteria (not by external sources) and they only make wines they personally enjoy – some to drink young; others for long aging in cool cellars for future generations to enjoy.

Margerum produces several different wine varietals, including Sybarite Sauvignon Blanc; UBER Syrah (a blend of Syrah grapes from Santa Barbara County’s best vineyards); Riviera Rosé (made primarily from Grenache grapes); the flagship Rhône Varietal Red Blend M5 (blended from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Counoise grapes); the M5 White (blended from Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Vermentino); and Amaro – a fortified wine made from Herbs (Sage, Thyme, Marjoram, Parsley, Lemon Verbena, Rosemary, and Mint), Barks, Roots, Dried Orange Peels, Barrel-Aged Brandy and Caramelized Simple Syrup. Currently, the Margerum Wine Company produces about 16,000 cases a year.

The Tasting Room will be its ever-changing menu featuring rare bottlings and excellent older vintages of Margerum Wines. For those seeking a more refined experience, the Margerum Wine Company offers customized Private Winemaker Tastings with Doug Margerum by appointment.

The Margerum Wine Company tasting room is open daily from 12:00 p.m. – 7:00 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 12:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m. Friday/Saturday and by appointment.

ABOUT MARGERUM WINE COMPANY:

MARGERUM WINE COMPANY produces limited quantities of wines made from grapes grown both on their estate vineyard and grapes purchased from other top vineyards from in and around Santa Barbara County. The 18-acre estate vineyard is planted exclusively to Rhône grape varietals. The acreage is divided between limestone hillsides and gravelly alluvial flatlands along Alamo Pintado Creek. The wines are made at their state-of-the-art winery located on Industrial Way in Buellton. Owner and Director of Winemaking, Douglas Barden Margerum, works with the top vineyards from the cool, eastern end of the valley in Happy Canyon to the western end’s cold vineyards of Sta. Rita Hills. Doug carefully selects the vineyards with meticulous attention to detail in all factors influencing the ultimate quality of the wines, including pruning, soil, climate, and farming methods. MARGERUM WINE COMPANY is committed to creating hand-crafted wines using only the highest quality grapes in order to make wines that are indicative of the place where they are grown. They strive to make wines naturally, to make wines that have individual characteristics and to make wines with personality. The scale of production is kept at a level where they can touch and know the wine as it is raised to the bottle – the antithesis of mass production. The standards of quality are measured by their own rigid criteria – not by external sources. They make wines they personally enjoy – some to drink young, others for long aging in cool cellars for future generations to enjoy, but mostly to share at the table with family and friends.

ABOUT DOUG MARGERUM:

Doug’s multi-faceted background as the Sommelier/Owner of The Wine Cask, a Wine Spectator Grand Award restaurant recipient, and as a highly respected winemaker made him sought out by a variety of wineries to assist in the formation of their brands. Doug has consulted for Chêne Bleu super Rhône wines in France, and continues to consult for La Encantada Vineyards, Rancho Boa Vista and Happy Canyon Vineyards, all in Santa Barbara County, as well as the Santa Barbara wines of Paradise Springs Winery based in Virginia.

MARGERUM WINE COMPANY TASTING ROOM

19 Mason Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93101

805.845.8435

tastingroom@margerumwines.com

For more information the public can visit:

www.margerumwines.com

Follow MARGERUM WINE COMPANY:

Facebook: www.facebook.com/margerumwine

Twitter: @MargerumWine

Instagram: @margerumwine

For information on the Barden Wines visit:

www.bardenwines.com

Vintage Eve Circa 7/2016: Garagiste 2016 Urban Exposure Event Exposed!

June 18, 2019 by evebushman

The mission (of the Garagiste wine festivals) is to support the small guys and girls who don’t have big marketing budgets or the time to get out there and sell their wine. These small-lot wines can be very hard to find. Over 60% of these winemakers don’t have a tasting room…

Jenny Kalina and me at event.

However, on July 9 dozens of these small wineries took center stage and commandeered the full auditorium of the LA Wiltern Theatre for an audience of appreciative wine learners and tasters. (Check them out here in this YouTube slideshow.)

Learning On The Stage:

Understanding Oak Varieties, Tasting the Winemaker’s Spice Rack

What does oak really taste like? French oak, American oak, neutral oak, heavy toast… these are some of the words we hear all the time in the wine world, but what do they really mean? How do you tell the flavor of oak from the flavor of the wine itself?

Ryan Render, representative for French tonnellerie (another word for a cooperage, which is also another word for a barrel maker) Cadus and winemaker at Rendarrio Vineyards, Larner Vineyards winemaker Michael Larner and Garagiste co-founder Stewart McLennan led our class.

Our first flight was the same grape, same year, same winery in three different oak expressions: a Larner 2014 Syrah. The aromas on each were remarkably different to me. With neutral oak (which means the oak barrel had been used four to five times and would no longer impart an oak flavor) the wine had the brightest, reddest fruit. The second wine, aged in French oak and is used the most by Larner, had an incredible amount of spice, which I happen to love in a Syrah, and bluer fruit. The third oak was American and gave off a creamy scent with a lot of blue to black fruit.

(Chatting with a friend after the class who doesn’t reside in California but is a huge fan of the event and flies down for it, she said that she preferred the American oak the best. I asked if she drank much French wine. She said none at all, mostly Paso Robles. So I thought that her preference might have been due to what her palate was used to in her home state and from Paso. Though like Larner there are California wineries using French oak too.)

Our next trio to taste was of another wine, a Cabernet Sauvignon, in unoaked (stainless steel only), a medium grain oak barrel and then a tight grain oak barrel. Again I got some interesting notes. In the unoaked wine it was all red fruit (like it had been in the neutral oak we had tasted earlier), the medium grain gave off distinct aromas of a sweet Port wine and blueberry, while the tight grain was all cigar smoke and had what one winemaker called a “tighter” feel on the palate.

Auditorium: Favorites from the “RARE and RESERVE” Tasting Hour

Archium Cellars 2012 “Haven” Grenache, Stolpman Vineyard.

Artisan Uprising 2014 Tempranillo.

Brian Benson Cellars 2013 Mr. Pickled Cabernet Syrah blend.

Caldera Cuvee 2009.

Cholame Vineyard vertical tasting of Bull Pen Tempranillo 2010/2011/2012 with the 2012 being my favorite of the three.

Cloak & Dagger Wines 2013 “The Assassin” Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah blend.

Deno Wines 2010 Two Bill’s Zinfandel Grenache blend.

JP3 Wines (the “JP” formerly of Stanger) 2013 Pinot Noir, Willow Creek.

MCV Wines 2013 Black Petite Sirah blend

Pagter Bros. Winery 2013 Lucky Club Syrah Reserve

Paso Port 2006 Violeta blend of Touriga, Tinta Cao and Souzao.

The Farm Winery 2010 “the Big Game” Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon blend.

Vines on the Marycrest 2006 Field Blend, Victor Abascal’s first planting.

Favorites Wineries of the Day are highlighted:

Alma Fria Winery, Alma Sol Winery, Alta Colina, Archium Cellars, Artisan Uprising, Ascension Cellars, Bellissimo Cellars, Bodega De Edgar, EVERYTHING THEY POURED at Brian Benson Cellars, Brophy Clark Cellars, Caldera Cuvee, Caliza Winery, The Central Coast Group Project, Chene Wines, Cholame Vineyards, Cloak & Dagger Wines, Cordon Wines, Coruce Vineyards, Deno Wines, Dreamcote Wines, El Lugar Wines, Golden Triangle, Graef Wines, EVERYTHING THEY POURED at Hoi Polloi Winery, Hoyt Family Vineyards, JP3 Wines, Kaena Wine Co., Kaleidos Winery, Kimmel Vineyards, Larner Vineyard and Winery, Leverage Wines, Marin’s Vineyard, MCV Wines, On Your Left Wines, Pagter Bros. Winery, Per Cazo Cellars/Paso Port, Powell Mountain Cellars, Press Gang Cellars, Prizm Winery, Pulchella Winery, Ranchita Canyon, Rendarrio Vineyards, Rhythm Wines, Ryan Cochrane Wines, Tao Vineyards, EVERYTHING THEY POURED at The Farm Winery, EVERYTHING THEY POURED at Theopolis Vineyards, Tierra y Vino, Tlo Wines, Trail Marker Wine Co., Turiya Wines, EVERYTHING THEY POURED at TW Fermentation Co., Two Shepherds, Vinemark Cellars, Vines on the Marycrest, Weatherborne and West of Temperance.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Tasting and Lesson with Stacie Hunt: Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe

May 31, 2019 by evebushman

Had the pleasure of sitting in on a lecture of the wines of the Valle de Guadalupe with the LA Wine Writers at our favorite spot for a wine paired luncheon, Napa Valley Grille, a few weeks ago. Will share what I learned and tasted below, or you can just skip to the story in photos here.

Some Things We Learned

There are over 200 years of wine history in the area, with the first grapes, table grapes, being planted before the 16^th century. Jesuit priests reactivated winemaking in the Tijuana area in 1791. In the 1800s the Dominicans came in, the Jesuits were out, and planting began north of Ensenada. By the 1900s Russian Molokans fled Russia and they too settled in Baja.

Over the years winemaking has changed due to new technology, growing techniques and water issues. (Underground aquifers are being exhausted due to drought. Drip systems can help control the salinity of the wines.) Most days reach 85 degrees, however the nights are at least 20 degrees lower and breezy. Stacie said that the fog creeps over in the morning and like a cat’s paws.

Some of the red wines being produced, with ABVs between 14-15%, include Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc, Carignan, Grenache, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Mision, Sangiovese and other Italian reds.

Whites, with ABVs between 12-13%, include Chardonnay, Chasselas, Chenin Blanc, Macabeo (aka Viura), Muscat Blanc, Palomino, Riesling, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Mision Blanco, Albariño and a variety of Italian whites.

There are many notable wineries including Casa de Piedra, Casa Magoni, Paraleo, Mogor Badan, Monte Xanic, L.A. Cetto, Montefiore and more. There are approximately 200 bonded wineries in total.

There is no system presently, for classifications on the labels, however, like California, bottles have to be made of 75% of one singular variety to have that variety’s name on the label. The only other items on a label have to be the producer’s name, region and the alcohol content.

One of Stacie’s mentors is winemaker, educator and a leader in the field, Hugo D’Acosta. He created an educational facility for budding winemakers in El Porvenir, has vineyards in Bordeaux and Pyrenees and partners with Wente in Napa and Milagro in San Diego.

These wines are “not your daddy’s wine” Stacie said, not like the wines of Bordeaux or Italy though they share similar varieties. The terroir makes a difference in the varietal character, which you may see via my tasting notes below.

The Wine and Pairing

This four course wine paired luncheon, one of many I’ve enjoyed with the LA Wine Writers, was outstanding as usual. Below are the courses, the wines (all retail for $35 and under), notes on the wines and the pairings.

Poached Bosc Pear with Burrata and Endive

Cavas Maciel, Venus Rosa of Merlot

100% Merlot Rose

Valle de Guadalupe

Aroma: Pink grapefruit, pear, pale florals, pebbles, flint.

Flavor: Peach, crisp acidity and then palate drying, a slight salinity.

Pairing: Very refreshing on the palate.

Diver Scallop Crudo with Cucumber Brunoises, Blood Orange Reduction

Monte Xanic, Sauvignon Blanc

100% Sauvignon Blanc

Valle de Guadalupe

Aroma: Lemon-lime, fruit cocktail, white peach.

Flavor: Meyer lemon, crisp, clean and low acid.

Pairing: The fruit in the dish and in the wine made for a good pairing.

Seared Cumin Crusted Seabass, Coconut Cauliflower Puree

El Cielo, Chardonnay 2015

100% Chardonnay (oaked)

Valle de Guadalupe

Aroma: Toasted oak, butter, cream, Golden Delicious apple, rich mouthfeel with some salinity.

Flavor: Lemon, oak, hay, balanced fruit and acid.

Second wine: Vinos Lechuza, Chardonnay 2016

100% Chardonnay (stainless steel)

Valle de Guadalupe

Aroma: Unsalted butter, banana, kiwi, pale oak.

Flavor: Golden Delicious apple (again), oak, buttery with a long finish.

Pairing: I preferred the oaked Chardonnay over the stainless with this dish.

Pasta Arrabbiata with Romano Pecorino

Vinos de la Reina, Sangiovese 2015

100% Sangiovese

Valle de San Vicente

Aroma: A slight vegetal aroma blew off in a few minutes, then I got plums, perfumy, char and a dusty quality.

Flavor: Red to dark fruit, pepper, tannic, dry, jammy. (Stacie said the jammy quality comes from the heat in the area.)

Pairing: Most of the writers inhaled this pairing and who am I to argue? But maybe I was just saving myself for the grand finale.

Santa Maria Grilled Tri Tip Chimichurri, Spring Farmer’s Vegetables, Tri Tip Jus.

Vina Cava, Tempranillo 2016

100% Tempranillo

Valle de Guadalupe

Aroma: Earth, dust, blueberry, blackberry – perfume to my nose.

Flavor: Deep, dark and dusty with black fruit, char and oak. Another wine I will look for again.

Pairing: The spice in this dish enhanced the wine perfectly.

Unique Northern California Varietals Steal the Show

May 2, 2019 by evebushman

PETALUMA, Calif. (PRWEB) – The judges of the 2019 North of the Gate Wine Competition have spoken, and this year’s wines debuting at the Sonoma-Marin Fair will be as complex and unique as the regions they come from.

This annual competition, now in its 19th year, has grown to represent unique, world-class wineries of Northern California, spanning from the Golden Gate Bridge to the Oregon Border. Each year, winemakers submit their best wine to a panel of industry-leading critics and judges. The winning wines will, in turn, be showcased at the Sonoma-Marin Fair Wine Garden this June 19-23, allowing fairgoers from all over the chance to experience the best that Northern California winemaking has to offer.

The 2019 competition took a unique turn, as more obscure varietals gave way to traditional California wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Chardonnay. Instead, the field blend of international varietals, which were originally planted in California, stole the show. Varietals among the Best in Class wines were grapes such as Carignane, Albarino, Barbera, Graciano, Montepulciano, Grenache and beyond. This refreshing success brings new life to the competition and opens opportunities for winemakers to expand the palates of their consumers, giving them an opportunity to taste something they might not have grabbed off the shelf themselves.

Winemaker Carol Shelton.

Known as the “Queen of Zin,” winemaker Carol Shelton was awarded this year’s Winemaker of the Fair. Shelton’s wines swept the show, winning multiple awards across categories. From Best of Class, Best of Show, and Double Gold awards, it was clear that Shelton’s passion and craft in winemaking in the North Bay showed up to play this year. The Carol Shelton Wines 2016 Oat Valley Carignane took both Best of Show and Best of Show Red, while her Late Harvest 2017 Zinfandel Black Magic won Best of Show Dessert Wine.

Imagery Estates showcased their 2018 Albarino, which took Best of Show White across the competition. Winemaker Jamie Benziger carries with her a legacy of Sonoma winemaking from Benziger Estates, though it’s clear that she has made her mark on Imagery Estates with her own style and talent.

Idle Hour Winery took home the Best of Show Sparkling Wine. Winemaker, Anna Marie Dos Remedios, incredible talent impressed this year’s judges with her beautifully crafted Sparkling Blanc de Blanc.

Competition judge and professional wine writer Bill McNabb noted the trend of more unusual grapes being planted and flourishing at the hands of talented women winemakers. “The Albarino that just won Best White is a very unusual grape that normally does not win,” says McNabb. “It is refreshing to see these grapes win.”

This bodes well for Northern California winemakers who are looking to entice their audience to get outside their comfort zone. The vintages presented in the competition are indicative of another spectacular year in California winemaking, despite challenges from the fires of 2017 that potentially threatened some of this year’s submissions. In terms of balance, the wines presented were holding their own beyond expectation. “This year’s wines are less acidic than years prior. The wines this year are deeper and have more earthy notes,” noted competition judge Yvonne Hurson. For a complete list of award-winning wines, please visit http://www.sonoma-marinfair.org/portfolio-item/wine/#.

The incredible wines were not the only thing to be celebrated. In an industry historically dominated by men, female judges, winemakers, and even the North of the Gate Wine Competition Director, Valery Uhl, carry distinct representation across the competition. There was no shortage of Women In Wine at the North of The Gate competition this year.

The winning wines will be displayed at the Sonoma-Marin County Fair in the Wine Garden this June 19th-23, 2019. Fair-goers can taste and mingle with the winemakers, as each wine who won their category are featured in a display for all 5 days of the Fair. A separate ticket is required to visit the Wine Garden and will be available for purchase at the gate the day of and in advance online at Sonoma-marinfair.org.

Mark your calendars for a summer to remember during “Eight Decades of Fun” at the Sonoma-Marin Fair, June 19-23, 2019. With new competitions and contests, FREE concerts, unlimited carnival rides, and delicious fair food you will want to come all 5 fun-filled days. Enjoy heart-warming entertainment during the World’s Ugliest Dog® Contest, the thrill of Sprint Car Racing, and the joy of connecting with our local agricultural community. For details, visit sonoma-marinfair.org or call (707) 283-3247. Be the first to know about all of the fun by following us on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.

Vintage Eve Circa 4/2016: Revisiting Four Brix Winery

April 16, 2019 by evebushman

We’ve run news from Ventura’s Four Brix Winery over the years (Baubles party, announcing the opening of the winery and different events I was able to snag a brief tasting at.) But it‘s been since May 2010 that I’ve sat down to taste and review their wines. Via my pal Cori Solomon of #LAWineWriters a media visit was recently arranged, and I got to rectify that.

Gary Stewart

From that 2010 article I will share that “…wine tasting became a focused passion for the three couples (that own Four Brix Winery)…(Gary) Stewart is mostly self-taught, adding classes from UC Davis, and was mentored by winemaker Ryan Horn at the Vintner’s Vault in Paso; the other couples offered years of palate experience. I then offered up my own palate to try the swanky labels he had for Deductive (Zinfandel and Petite Syrah), Rhondevous (Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache) and my personal favorite, Scosso (Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot).

Fast-forward to today, and from co-owner Karen Stewart (who is most often found in the tasting room), I learned:

They started out as garage winemakers.
The winery has 4,000 more square feet just added, perfect for their larger “Brix Head” events.
They recently added their first “estate-managed vineyard”, the Cani Amante Vineyard, in Ojai.
They don’t have a Chardonnay, but plenty of other whites to tantalize you.

New Tasting (Aromas and flavors separated by “;”)

2013 Smitten

100% Viognier

Camp 4 Vineyard, Santa Ynez

HELLO PINEAPPLE, then came pear, wet steel and pebbles; in the mouth was that same big pineapple flavor (someone maybe liked Hawaiian Pineapple wine when they made this one?), lemon-lime, concrete and white peach. 90 Eve pts.

2013 Desirous

100% Grenache Blanc

Camp 4 Vineyard, Santa Ynez

Jasmine, cantaloupe and honeydew melon, talcum powder, perfumy and fresh; on the mouth I got distinct canned fruit cocktail, medium acid and slight oak elements. 89 Eve pts.

2014 Dry Riesling

Cani Amante Vineyard in Ojai, Estate property.

I don’t get CA Riesling often so I was looking forward to this one. Dried peach, anise, white pepper; followed by peaches in light syrup, lemon, limeade with an encouragingly pleasant mouthfeel. 89 Eve pts.

2012 Meritage

64% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon

Paso Robles

Cigarette, red cherry, toast, jam and vanilla; dried cherry, black currant, cigar, oak, dark, strong tannins. 89 Eve pts.

2011 Temptress

85% Tempranillo, 12% Grenache, 3% Mourvedre

Dusty plum, mushroom, green peppercorn and black cherry; spices, black fruit, peppery with a long, dark finish. 89 Eve pts.

2011 Petite Sirah

Layers of blueberry and black cherry, musty, violets; then flavors of dark black fruit, black pepper, dry and dusty. 88 Eve pts.

2013 Scosso

Jammy nose with blue to black fruit, earth and mint; juicy at the start, dry at mid-palate, same fruit profile as found in the nose. 89 Eve pts.

2013 Cani Amante Block 4, Ojai

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot

Lovely berry fruit, milk chocolate and oak trees; very dry, pepper, black fruit, big, and chewy. WE gave it 90 pts., so who am I to disagree? 90 Eve pts.

Location

2290 EASTMAN AVE. SUITE 109
VENTURA, CA 93003

Call for hours Thursday through Sunday: Phone: (805) 256-6006

info@fourbrixwine.com

Website: http://www.fourbrixwine.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/FourBrixWines/

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Tasting: Two Papas Wines

April 12, 2019 by evebushman

I’ve known Rick Pratt, owner and winemaker for the new Entourage label by Two Papas Wine, for a few years now as he and his wife Teresa are one of the wineries that participate in Sunset in the Vineyard.

I’ve come to learn that Pratt’s wines are made from all Santa Barbara County grapes, that he makes the wines at Flying Goat Winery in Lompoc, and besides the event I mentioned you can also find his wines at Marston’s, Buellton Wine and Chili Fest, Santa Monica Fest and Sierra Pelona Wine Fest.

Pratt makes 240 to 320 cases per year of five varietals. Current releases (tasting notes below) are from 2017: Grenache Blanc, two different vineyards for two Grenache, a Grenache Syrah blend and a Syrah. Next up and in barrel now are the 2018s: all the same except that instead of the Grenache Syrah blend Pratt will be releasing a Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre (GSM) blend.

Most of the grapes come from the coveted Thompson Vineyard. Not to be confused with Thompson green table grapes, grapes from the Thompson vineyard are known to be the top Rhônes in the state, possibly in the country, according to Pratt, which he says are also wine critic Robert Parker’s favorite.

Even my fellow wine writer has reviewed Pratt’s wines and said, “…with Two Papas Wines, we may have a King of Grenache here in Santa Clarita.” Rusty Sly, February 1, 2019 http://www.slystateofwine.com/article

Tasting (Collective notes made with the Wine-y Women Meet-Up group. Some of their descriptors are in quotes. Aromas and flavors separated by;)

2017 Grenache Blanc

Saarloos and Sons Vineyards

El Camino Ranch, Los Olivos

12.5% alcohol

Grapefruit, fruit cocktail, tangerine and a hint of stainless steel; Green apple, dried apricot, lemon-lime, medium acid and that bit of steeliness. This was my favorite.

2017 Grenache

Saarloos and Sons Vineyards

El Camino Ranch, Los Olivos

13.8% alcohol

Strawberry, red plum, “Bing cherry” and wet pebbles; strawberry again, cherry cola, “warming”, earthy and tangy. This was a general favorite in the tasting.

2017 Grenache

Thompson Vineyard

Alisos Canyon, Santa Barbara County

13.8% alcohol

Cherry, raspberry jam, earth and oak; red fruit, a bit of grapefruit again and a little tartness.

2017 GS

75% Grenache, 25% Syrah

Thompson Vineyard

Alisos Canyon, Santa Barbara County

13.8% alcohol

“Bouquet of flowers”, opened “acorn nuts”, earth, blueberry, blackberry and a hint of caramel; dark fruit, red fruit, blue fruit, tannic and a bit acidic allowing for a long finish.

2017 Syrah

Thompson Vineyard

Alisos Canyon, Santa Barbara County

14% alcohol

“Black currant”, “Raisinettes”, oak, black cherry; black fruit, “chocolate cherry cordial”.

I also learned that Pratt has been licensed to sell commercially since October 2018, prices range from $27 to $35 a bottle, 10% discount to club members and club members that want to purchase above their allocation are extended a 15% courtesy. The commitment? Only three bottles twice a year. If you want more they also have a second club level, the Elite Club. It is two each of three bottlings twice a year. One in Spring just before Easter and one in early November, just before Thanksgiving. With that option 3 bottles twice a year averages $85 per shipment and 6 bottles twice a year averages $185 per shipment.

Pratt commented, “I love wine and talking about wines, just want to cover my expenses.”

(A note on the pretty ladies on his labels: The one with Natalie Wood on it has been granted permission for reuse, the others are models, including the lovely blond that is the Pratts’ daughter-in-law and the brunette in the large green hat is their daughter.)

https://twopapaswines.com/

Rioja: Tradition VS Terroir with Nina Sventitsky

April 5, 2019 by evebushman

The wine region of Rioja, Spain is undergoing an evolution from within. The famed wine style of long-aged wines built a reputation for Rioja; now the growers and winemakers are helping to re-shape the rules to focus the region on terroir and grape provenance…

Rioja Lesson with Educator Nina Sventitsky

I’ve had classes with Nina before and have always been impressed with her wealth of knowledge and ease in covering a given subject. Her understanding of the Rioja wine region of Spain was enlightening. I expected to learn a few new things, as the teaser above let us know that there were new rules afoot in this old world wine region, and reminded me of the few things I already knew:

Rioja is located in North Central Spain, surrounded by two large mountain ranges and several smaller ranges. The Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean seas influence the area.

Historically, Rioja wineries sourced grapes from all over the region to create blends.

Until 2019 all Rioja wines were simply labeled Rioja DOCA, without any specific area designations. It was all one region and one appellation. As of this year, wineries may start to label with the source of the grapes – from vineyards, villages and local regions. Rioja has varied terrain, soils and climate; now the differences in grapes grown in varied conditions are allowed to be on the labels.

Tempranillo is the indigenous grape of the region. Reds are “king” but they also produce whites and rose.

Riojas were popularly exported mostly to Great Britain; over time China and the U.S. have enjoyed being the primary importers.

While we may age our wines in cellar before drinking, all wines from Rioja have been aged (mainly) in American oak barrels and bottle before release, and are ready to drink upon release. Rioja wines may be aged for decades as well, but when you buy a bottle of Rioja, you won’t have to wait at all as the winery had done the initial work for you.

Currently there are four Rioja classifications and Seals of Authenticity that appear on the back label of every Rioja wine: Generico (young with minimal aging), Crianza (wines with a year of oak aging), Reserva (Aged at least 3 years in oak and bottle) and Gran Reserva (red wines aged five plus years in oak and bottle).

2019 will be the first release of 2017 Sparkling Blanco and Rose wines, produced using the traditional method.

Menu by Chef Kenny Spost, Napa Valley Grille, and Wine Pairings

Chicken Liver Pate Toast – sourdough crostini, balsamic glaze, san andreas goat cheese, micro peppercress. This was a delightful dish, and I’m a huge pate fan. I finished it all before remembering I had to pace myself for three more dishes.

Wine: Deobriga Fermentado en Barrica Blanco 2016

Viura, Garnacha Blanca.

Bruised yellow apple, perfumy, stainless steel and oak on the nose followed by tartness, spice and some of that same bruised apple on the palate.

Wine: Beronia Rosado 2017

Garnacha, Tempranillo.

Fresh aromas of peach, metal, green apple and then flavors of ripe fruit, tart cherry and a long finish.

Mussels – house made chorizo, white wine, chix peas, cilantro. The entire table was all OOHS and AHHHS over this dish. The buttery tenderness of the mussels paired with the crispy saltiness of the chorizo, and then lightened again by chix peas sauce…was all quite remarkable.

Wine: Bodegas Hermanos Pecina 2016

Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha.

Spices, dark fruit, pepper on the nose, and then a tartness, followed by blueberry and grass one the palate.

Nicoise Salad – blackened albacore tuna, blackberry vinaigrette, sugar snap peas, sundried tomatoes, crispy shallots. This may have been my favorite dish. The tuna was perfect sushi grade, the peppered edge just right, that blackberry vinaigrette played off well with the wine and then finding the peas, tomatoes and shallots all added to the fun. Not your typical Nicoise salad by any means.

Vina Herminia Tempranillo 2016

Tempranillo

Fresh bright red fruit, bark and creaminess all on the nose, then a palate that was bright, dry and balanced.

Lamb Merguez Sausage – white bean stew, Mire pox, parsley. Chef really outdid himself with this dish. I don’t think I’ve ever had a lamb sausage, so not sure what to expect, the flavors he added between the sausages themselves and the stew they nestled in it was all just lovely. I wished I had packed up my leftovers to dine on again.

Wine: Marques de Murrieta Reserva 2013

Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo, Garnacha

Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, spice, crushed leaves and possibly sage; then came dark fruit, spice, mushroom and toasted oak in the mouth. This was my favorite wine in the lineup.

Wine: LAN Reserva 2010

Tempranillo, Graciano

Sugary plum and blackberry balanced with a nice amount of spice, then a mouthful of big, dark, dusty, dry and tannic.

Story in photos can be seen here.