Vintage Eve 2/2018: Review of Graham’s 20-Year-Old Tawny Port

November 17, 2020 by evebushman

I recently shared a press release from Graham’s regarding their 20-year-old tawny port, and lo and behold, a week later I received one for review.

From Graham’s: “…Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port (is)—made from the highest quality Douro Valley grapes. Rich caramel flavors and notes of toffee…20 years of cask aging gives the wine its beautiful golden amber color…” read more here. And see how my notes compare below!

Tasting

From the label: 20% alcohol, 5 generations of the Symington family for over 190 years have crafted this port, with an “art of blending” and control from “harvest to cellar.”

Color/appearance: A cross between your standard colored-raisin and a golden raisin, with a deeper garnet-hued edge.

Aroma: Chocolate covered cherries, liquor-filled chocolates, almond, crushed raspberry, caramel, coconut and raisin. Very welcoming.

Flavor: A lovely mouth-coating viscosity filled with milk and dark chocolate, macadamia nut, raspberry again, butter, fresh blueberry muffins, plum, cream, real pancake syrup and with no real discernable burn but with an incredible long length.

Pairing: I do a chocolate class with Cab, Zin or Shiraz and at least one port. We start with the highest percentage of cacao and work ourselves down to milk chocolate. Most of the bars also have dried fruit and/or nuts. Every time the class ends up finding new respect for dark chocolate, and every time the port helps them transition from dark to milk. So, I’d definitely like this port, with all of the aromas and flavors I noted above, at my next class. Beyond that, and again due to the flavors I found I would enjoy this with a fruit-topped cheesecake, flan, bread pudding with rum and/or fruit, all kinds of cheeses, or after a night of wine or whisky.

More From Graham’s

Graham’s was founded in 1820 and now has earned an unmatched reputation as the leading producer of premium Port wines. The company has been owned by just two families in its entire history; originally founded by the Graham’s, it was acquired by the Symington family in 1970.

The Symingtons can trace their ancestors as Port wine producers back four generations to Andrew James Symington who came to Oporto in 1882, but back thirteen generations through their great grandmother, Beatrice Atkinson, to Walter Maynard who shipped 39 pipes of Port in 1652. A unique record in the history of Port.

Today, five members of the Symington family work in the company – Paul, Johnny, Dominic, Rupert and Charles. The family personally manages all aspects of wine making from the vineyard to the final bottling of the wine.

GRAHAM’S owns 5 vineyard properties. Quinta dos Malvedos, Graham’s flagship property, has always been the heart of GRAHAM’S Vintage Port, where most of the grapes are sourced. Quinta da Vila Velha and Quinta do Vale de Malhadas (both privately owned by a member of the Symington family), as well as Quinta das Lages, have contributed to the GRAHAM’S unique style. The latest acquisition, Quinta do Tua, perfectly complements Malvedos and adds a further dimension to GRAHAM’S Port wines.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Switchback Ridge, Grand Reserves Reward, Grassl Glass and More!

October 2, 2020 by evebushman

What do you know about Calistoga’s Switchback Ridge Winery? How about the new Mastercard, the “Grand Reserves Reward” card, that’s just for wine enthusiasts? Have you handled any Grassl glassware? Visited Liquid Assets Cellars? Let me give you a taste of each, with a special focus on the wine of course!

It started like this: Grand Reserve members were “invited by our partner winery Switchback Ridge to a special private tasting event. They will be pouring their 2015/2016 Merlot, 2015/2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2014 Petite Sirah…and one new, not yet released wine for something extra fun! The event will take place at Liquid Assets Cellars in North Hollywood…Pierson Ryan from Switchback Ridge” will lead the tasting.

Learning About Switchback Ridge

Ryan explained that the winery is run by a mother/daughter team Kelly and Ashley Peterson. Ryan said, “This is fantastic wine but the people are better.” The family has owned the land for 106 years, 1999 was their first vintage, they only make about 3 thousand cases per year, they hold all reds four years in bottle after barrel aging and have 21 acres under vine. Winemaker Bob Foley is known as the “Mount Rushmore winemaker’, aka Mr. Merlot, and a very iconic winemaker (not related to Bill Foley).

About 80 percent of their wine is allocated to club members and the remaining 20 percent to wine bars and restaurants. Liquid Assets owner Kevin Jones chimed in, basically saying this is a perfect time to get in on winery allocation lists as due to Covid some members have had to drop off.

Tasting (my notes are in italics)

2015 SWITCHBACK RIDGE MERLOT 92% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon

This is what Merlot should be! Ripe aromas and flavors of red cherry and cassis coat the palate with a rich, round middle. A framework of soft tannin delivers a beautiful finish with hints of mocha. 1008 CASES | $58/750ML (This was the first wine I tasted and stayed my favorite throughout. I found more dark cherry over red, the cassis and a finish that just wouldn’t quit! The 16 months it spent in French oak was perfect for my palate.)

2016 SWITCHBACK RIDGE MERLOT 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon

Enticing red fruit bowl aromas of raspberry, red cherry and cassis are graced with just a hint of savory spice. These flavors flood the palate with a rich mouthful of deliciousness that brings on espresso-like nuances. The structure and balance resolve in a mouth-coating finish that seems to go on forever. 1144 CASES | $60/750ML (Had to agree with the “flood the palate” and the length of the finish noted by the winery above. Jeb Dunnuck gave this one 94 points. This one was a bit tighter than the 2015 for me, I would decant or lay it down for a bit.)

2015 SWITCHBACK RIDGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Intoxicating aromas of Bing Cherry and black currant. Delicious mid-palate sweetness, gently gripping tannin, finishing with hints of espresso and vanilla bean. A thoroughly ripe vintage with great aging potential. 829 CASES | $95/750ML (Purely Domestic Wine Report awarded this wine 95 points. Ryan said they had a very low yield. I thought it fine to drink now, with dark black cherry, balsamic as well as the espresso and vanilla noted above. My second favorite wine in the tasting.)

2016 SWITCHBACK RIDGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Intense dark fruit aromas of black cherry and black currant indicate the ripeness and purity of this beautiful Cabernet. The structural framework is sturdy, while tannin grips very gently, carrying the fruit flavors with a trace of vanilla into a long, graceful finish. 1071 CASES | $96/750ML (Jeb Dunnuck really liked this one, giving it a whopping 96+. Beautiful fruit and tannin structure.)

2014 SWITCHBACK RIDGE PETITE SIRAH 100% Petite Sirah (33% Old Vine Block)

You might have to tap on the bottom of the bottle a few times to get this wine out! Incredibly dark and impenetrable with wild berry and boysenberry fruit. The wine coats your palate from beginning to end. Chewy tannins are well integrated and nicely balanced by ripe, jammy fruit and lifted by ample natural juicy acidity. 717 CASES | $62/750ML (I had to use one of my favorite lines, “There’s a lot going on in this glass” to describe this Petite Sirah. Lots of thick jam and strong tannins; Ryan mentioned a great age ability and that it only needed a ribeye steak!)

A note on the not yet released wine – stay tuned to Switchback Ridge as though we were one of the few that have sampled it, we can’t share anything about it publicly until it’s released, possibly by November!

Grassl Glass (Excerpted From Brochure)

Every Grassl Glass is handmade by artisans with over 30 years of glass blowing experience. The result of their skill is a glass with remarkable precision, highest quality materials and unbelievable thinness that feels weightless in your hand. All shapes were developed with the feedback of world renowned winemakers to establish a clear benchmark for how their wines should unfold and be enjoyed by everyone.

Final Words

So, become a card holder, earn some bonus points and you will be invited to tastings with wineries like Switchback Ridge, and other “experiences”. Visit Liquid Assets Cellars, in nearby North Hollywood about 20 minutes from Santa Clarita, for your chance to handle the delicately made GrassL glassware – I swear the decanter weighed a mere ounce – and see the custom cellars where you can also store your wine! Make friends with the owner Kevin Jones and he’ll walk you over to his sister shop, Epicurus Gourmet (I felt like we were in a French grocery!) and maybe also sample his new Kindred Rose wine.

Links

https://switchbackridge.com

https://www.instagram.com/switchbackridge/

https://www.instagram.com/grandreserverewards/

https://linktr.ee/GrandReserveRewards

https://grasslglass.com/

https://www.facebook.com/grasslglass/

Watch 20 seconds or so of how the glassware is made here:

https://grasslglass.com/assets/video/manufacture_low.mp4

https://www.lacellars.com/

https://www.facebook.com/Liquid-Assets-Cellars-103946499846

Epicurus Gourmet

https://epicurusgourmet.com/

https://www.facebook.com/EpicurusGourmet

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Single Bottle Post: Knights Bridge 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon

December 27, 2019 by evebushman

In my recent trip to Napa Valley, while visiting Calistoga and one winery in particular, Knights Bridge, we were gifted a bottle of Cab at the end of our visit. I tucked it into our suitcase, with a few others, and felt that since it was a gift I should do one of my one-bottle posts in return. Below are my tasting notes, and below that is the blurb I wrote about their tasting room, the only tasting room housed in a former bank with the only bank vault turned wine vault.

Knights Bridge 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Knights Valley, Sonoma County

320 cases

14.3% alcohol

Color: Opaque, the blackest of black cherries.

Aroma: Sweet plum, black cherry, mellowed balance of spice and tannin, milk chocolate, cigar and oak.

Flavor: Balanced and lingering flavors of ripe blue and black fruit, spice rack, with a slightly sweet finish.

Note on the bottle: I’m a sucker for a weighted bottle with a deep punt. It makes it nicer to pour from, and to me, it heightens awareness to the quality of the wine.

Conclusion: At about $100 a bottle, which is the standard rate for a Napa Valley Cab, I’d definitely pay for it to have it again. The balance and length, along with the dark fruit and spice, were exceptional.

From my article in SCV Elite Magazine:

Knights Bridge Vault

Also a winery I had learned about from WineLA.com, Knights Bridge was one I wanted to visit. Happy to find them in Calistoga, in the historic Calistoga National Bank building, where we enjoyed conversing with Kerry Andrews all about Calistoga and all they have to offer in a small-town feel. We viewed the only wine vault (former bank vault) in Napa, enjoyed cheese and charcuterie while tasting through their exceptional wines: 2018 Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc, Fairview; 2015 Pont de Chevalier Chardonnay, Estate Vineyard; 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate Vineyard; 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dr. Crane Vineyard and 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, To Kalon Vineyard. We enjoyed them all, especially the Cabs.

Book online: https://www.knightsbridgewinery.com/Visit-Us-Events/Private-Tastings-in-The-Vault

About (Excerpted From Facebook)

Knights Bridge was founded by a close circle of friends who celebrate a shared passion for wine and food, a love of farming and respect for nature.

The wines of Knights Bridge offer an opportunity to taste not only our unique estate wines, but also wines from some of California’s most prestigious vineyards. Knights Bridge searches California for exceptional sources of fruit from properties with a strong sense of place and the potential for producing extraordinary wines. Many of these celebrated properties have a long history of incredible vintages to their credit.

Founding Date: 2006

Estate Wines: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc
Vineyard Designate Wines: Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville), Dr. Crane Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena), Berisini Vineyards Chardonnay (Carneros), Alder Springs Chardonnay (Mendocino)

https://www.instagram.com/knightsbridgewinery/

https://www.knightsbridgewinery.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Couldn’t Wait For: The Grenache Masterclass

March 9, 2018 by evebushman

Dealing with 9am traffic to Downtown LA is not my idea of fun. However the powers that be selected a venue, Redbird Restaurant, which had a very nice private room for a medium-sized group of sommeliers and other very interested people in the wine trade. Why? Check out the wine list below, now completed with my tasting notes, as well as some of the interesting things I learned about Grenache from Patrick Comiskey, Wine and Spirits Magazine and author of American Rhone, and Peter Fraser, winemaker for Yangarra Estates.

Tasting – aromas and flavors separated by;

2015 Yangarra Old Vine Grenache (McLaren Vale)

The vines for this wine date back to 1946, 14.5% alcohol, 100% Grenache and approx. $25 bottle. Fraser showed us photos of the grapes before and after sorting: very uniform in color and no stems. He said this wine shows a richer riper wine. All hit their “sweet spot” after 10 years of aging. Comiskey added that all Grenache are “gloriously aromatic” in the glass.

Dusty red cherries, raspberry jam and bark; bright red fruit, dry, long length.

2015 Domaine de Cristia Vieilles Vignes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

100% Grenache, this was my first favorite of the tasting, and as our second to taste I was reminded of what Fraser said, the winemaking “should transcribe a sense of place.” This CDP definitely didn’t have the same aroma or flavor profile of the first Yangarra.

Darker red fruit, cigar, smoke, male sweat; rose petals and other florals showed in the mouth.

2015 Domaine de Marcoux Vieilles Vignes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

98% Grenache and 2% Cinsault and about $170 a bottle. Comiskey said that Rhônes from CDP are “unparalleled in the world.”

Bright red fruit, raspberry, green forest floor, earth; berry, stems, medium finish.

2014 Yangarra High Sands Grenache (McLaren Vale)

Fraser said this one was “more restrained”, 100% Grenache, 14.5% alcohol and about $90 a bottle. Fraser also said they do most of their Grenache as single varietals that allows for silky, tannic and perfumed structure.

Sweet black cherry, milk chocolate, and a hint of a wet forest and barnyard; red to blue fruits, dark, dusty and tannic.

2013 Espectacle (Montsant)

Alcohol at 15% and a price tag of about $155 a bottle.

Sweeter nose, floral, Port notes, bursting red fruit and dark cherry; noted the higher alcohol on the mouth, red fruit, tannic.

2013 Yangarra High Sands Grenache (McLaren Vale)

A year older than the first High Sands we tasted. With 14.8% alcohol, 100% Grenache and a $90 price tag.

Fruit felt darker, could definitely note that wee bit of longer age on this one; tart red fruit and tannic. My second favorite in the tasting so far.
2013 Torbreck Les Amis (Barossa Valley)

Although both Comiskey and Fraser seemed not to care for this wine it proved to be my favorite of the tasting. 100% Grenache, 16% alcohol and about $155 a bottle.

Much darker fruit, smoke, oak and forest floor; well-balanced fruit, pepper and a nice long finish.

2013 Sine Qua Non Female Grenache (California)

And here was our cult wine and one I really looked forward to tasting as our finish. With 15.7% alcohol, from the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, $330 a bottle and the only GSM blend in the tasting: 78% Grenache, 19% Syrah and 3% Mourvedre. Comiskey had read a bit from his book on American Rhônes and I recalled that he wrote that Grenache is the “organizer” of every blend and has “unique varietal gifts.” The varietal may have been born as Garnacha in Spain “but is now grown wherever there is abundant sunshine.” Also a favorite but I still enjoyed the Torbreck best.

Perfumy, aromatic, great red to darker fruits, slightly sweet; huge red fruit in the mouth, spice and an incredible length.

From Yangarra: Australia is to take on France and the US…

The…educational masterclasses…are designed to draw attention to the quality of wine possible from this underrated grape, particular when sourced from very old vines in Australia’s McLaren Vale.

Among the wines on show (were) biodynamic wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Domaine de Cristia and Domaine de Marcoux as well as Female from Sine Qua Non, which is made with 78% Grenache by Manfred Krankl, a champion of Rhône grapes in the state. However, leading the line-up will be Grenache from Yangarra Estate in the McLaren Vale, including the producer’s flagship High Sands Grenache, which is created using biodynamically-farmed fruit from bush vines planted in 1946.

…Named Australian Winemaker of the Year for 2016 by eminent wine critic James Halliday, Fraser is a highly respected figure in the Australian wine industry, and one whose expertise centers on Rhône grapes, in particular Grenache, having made wine from the variety since 2000 at Yangarra Estate.

Fraser…agreed to compare his wines to the greatest varietal Grenaches from around the world, which included not only the rarest expressions from the aforementioned Domaine de Cristia and Domaine de Marcoux, but also Spain’s Espectacle, a pure Grenache from 120 year-old vines in Montsant, made by René Barbier, famous for Priorat’s Clos Mogador.

The award-winning McLaren Vale winemaker has also said he will show his wines alongside Australia’s celebrated varietal Grenache from the Barossa Valley: Torbreck’s Les Amis, which is made using grapes from vines planted in 1901.

This tasting will provide an educational look at Grenache using a selection of extremely rare wines made from one of the trade’s most underrated grapes.

Vintage Eve Circa 12/2013: Wine of the Month Club Wine Tasting and Podcast

July 25, 2017 by evebushman

We have so many options for wine clubs these days! Our favorite wineries, wine stores, even newspapers offer clubs. So why Wine Of the Month Club it? Lemme tell ya what I learned during a recent visit, tour and podcast taping with owner Paul Kalemkiarian. (Direct YouTube link is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzdbgQI9Gk8)

eve and paul large First of all Paul is Paul the second, his father started the company. And this Paul is doing it all: tasting, rating, negotiating and selecting every wine for their three different monthly clubs. Where that would be it for me, Paul sends a monthly magazine – two-dozen pages – about all of the wines he selected, gifts, recipes and tasting notes. This is the part that got my attention on the cover of the December 2013 issue: Wines evaluated last month: 287; Rejected: 243; Approved: 44; Selected:12. Sounds like Paul has a highly developed palate!

Before we did our video Paul wanted to know more (we had admitted to trolling each other’s websites!) about me. Of course, this was because we would soon appear on film together, but the way he spoke with me showed a real interest. Where I might have expected to meet a salesman, I met a warm, open, compassionate, hard-working business owner. It was an eye-opener for those of us that should never judge a wine by its label. Paul is the real deal, and only provides the real deal.

So let’s see what he sent me home with to taste:

Tasting

2012 Grange Des Dames

Grapes: Clairette and Grenache

Appellation: Ventoux, Rhone

Pale gold in color with aromas of freshly cut sweet pineapple, juicy pear, red Delicious apple, hay and a cool breeze passing over a lush flowerbed; in the mouth I was rewarded with a decent amount of acid – sometimes this characteristic is too bold for me – as well as pineapple juice, a hint of lemon and green honeydew melon. Very pleasant.

2010 Domaine de Poulvarel

Grapes: Syrah and Grenache

Appellation: Costieres de Nimes, France

A full glass elicited a more purple color; aromas of rich dark blueberry, toasted oak, wet stones, pomegranate seeds, and flavors that included blue to black berries, plums, dry, with a very balanced fruit and tannic structure, medium length.

2011 Hermoso Hermosa

Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon

Appellation: Valle del Moule, Chile

Greeted by a dark garnet color, followed by pungent aromas of stewing dark fruit, plums, menthol and a lit cigar. On the mouth it was slightly astringent, bright red fruit, smoke, dry and light tannins. Good for the club price.

2010 Prahova Valley

Grapes: Feteasca Neagra

Appellation: Romania

Romania? This was one of the wines that I tasted during the taping with Paul. Never had the Romanian grape, roughly translated as “Black Maiden”, before. And it was good. Now that I had time to linger over it I found the color to be garnet with a ribbon of browner red on the edge, aromas of fresh raspberry, strawberry, mushroom, simmering spaghetti sauce and a hint of red licorice. Once tasted I got the same bright fruit, including cherry, spice, good tannins and a nice round mouthfeel. Another good club bargain.

From the Website

Wine of the Month Club™ is the oldest mail order wine club in America. Specializing in value-oriented wines, the Wine of the Month Club is open to anyone who has an appreciation of fine wine and is interested in a monthly wine club service. Quality wine delivered to your door, guaranteed!

Our search for our wine club selections never ends. Each month I taste over 400 Italian wines, German wines, California wines, Argentinean wine, Chilean wines, and wines from all the other regions of the world—and I only select 2 to represent the best wine values in the world.

Join the Wine of the Month Club™, America’s favorite wine club. See where it all began…

http://www.wineofthemonthclub.com/

Wine Discovery of the Week: Something from Romania? At a Wine of the Month Club tasting I got to try ’10 Prahova Valley made from Feteasca Neagra (Black Maiden) grapes. Aromas alone included fresh raspberry, strawberry, mushroom, simmering spaghetti sauce and a hint of red licorice.

Wine 101ers Get: AUSTRALIA UP CLOSE Part One

June 9, 2017 by evebushman

With a geographical size similar to the US and distinct climates, soils and terroirs, its no surprise that Australia boasts an array of wine styles, regions and grape varieties for you to experience.

This was an intriguing teaser to a recent Australian wine event I attended. I went in knowing very little about Australian white wines so I signed up for their seminar, and then knew I would enjoy the walk around tasting to get my fill of the wines I was more familiar with: Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignons and many Bordeaux and Rhone blends.

SEMINAR – White Wines: Unique Expressions of Australian Riesling, Semillon and Chardonnay

Australia is blessed with regions and climates that can produce truly world-class wines from the noblest of vines. Discover the many exciting expressions of Riesling, Semillon and Chardonnay being produced across Australia’s diverse wine regions. Presented by special guests and winemakers, and moderated by Wine Australia.

Our Seminar Panelists

Fahara Zamorano – Head Sommelier, Gwen LA; Matt Kaner – Owner, Bar Covell & Augustine; Kyle Meyer – Wine Exchange; Bruce Tyrrell – Tyrrell’s Wines; Jeff Burch – Howard Park Wines; Jeff McWilliam – McWilliam’s Wines; Mark Davidson, Wine Australia (Moderator).

Seminar Wines – Flavors and Aromas separated by ;

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Hunter Semillon Hunter Valley 2011 – Green apple, pineapple lemon zest, Mandarin orange and white pepper all on the nose; with lemon-lime, bruised apple and a medium acidity on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon Hunter Valley 2009 – I smelled apple, pear, fresh lemon, pears in light syrup; then tasted bright and tangy fresh fruit – same as those I found on the nose. 90 Eve pts.

Ashbrook Estate Semillon Margaret River 2015 – Perfumy aroma, then bruised yellow apple, cream and a pale hint of cinnamon; viscous on the mouth, as well as slightly paler fruit and a long finish. 90 Eve pts.

Silkman Estate Semillon Hunter Valley 2015 – Lemon, toast, grapefruit and unsalted butter on the nose; followed by tart apple and limeade on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Pewsey Vale Contours Riesling Eden Valley 2011 – Fruit cocktail, green grass to yellow hay, floral and bright; that same bright quality came through on the taste as well as lemon, grass, acidity, bone dry. 90 Eve pts.

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling Clare Valley 2016 – Bright aromas of pears and kiwi fruit; followed by lemon, orange and steel on the palate. 90 Eve pts.

Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling Frankland River 2015 – Green apple, crushed green leaves and a whiff of orange on the nose; the palate was very sharp citrus fruit: lemon and orange, a slight viscosity and a long dry finish. 90 Eve pts.

Pressing Matters R9 Riesling Tasmania 2015 – My favorite of all the white wines I tasted with aromas of sweet orange blossoms, apple pie and a bit of cream; then came a slightly sweet and lingering fresh lemon-lime fruit on the mouth. 91 Eve pts. (All of the Riesling shared the same bone dry quality, except this expression from Tasmania.)

McWilliam’s 842 Chardonnay Tumbarumba 2013 – Fresh oak, honey, barnyard, earth, citrus, butter and white pepper on the nose; then the taste was tart, some oak and apple. 91 Eve pts.

Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay Mornington Peninsula 2012 – Earthy, dried apple, butter, clove and steely; then bruised apple, tart with medium acid. 90 Eve pts.

Howard Park Miamup Chardonnay Margaret River 2015 – Toast, lemon, cream, and a general feeling of being in a sweet floral garden; the flavors were bright, tart and citrusy with a medium acidity and long finish. 89 Eve pts.

Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay Adelaide Hills 2014 – Creamery butter, lemon and green fields; then that same lemon on the mouth, but light, and a leaner acidity. 89 Eve pts.

What I Learned From Our Panelists and the White Wine Tasting

One of our panelists stated that if you remotely expect that a Semillon from Australia would taste like one from Bordeaux, France you would be dead wrong. If you thought that a Riesling from Australia would taste like its German counterpart you would be equally wrong. My tasting notes above probably express this.

Australia is considered a New World wine area, however, Meyer would like us to see their wines as truly old world, but with an edge. The vines are very old, the area is larger than Europe and Phylloxera has never hit them.

The 12 elite wineries in “Australia’s First Families of Wine” group have several criteria to meet including their dedication to promote Australian wine to the global market, 100% family owned and have to have at least a 20 year vertical.

Next week I will run part two of the tasting, the reds I got to try, on June 16 here on this blog.

Vintage Eve May 2013: The Wines of Calabria, Vino California 2013

May 23, 2017 by evebushman

Below are my notes from Vino California’s Seminar One: “CALL TO CALABRIA, Discovering the Wines from the “Toe” of Italy’s Peninsula”, that I recently attended at the Skirball Cultural Center. I am sharing what I learned with readers as it fits the Wine 101 mantra: Learn by tasting, and if possible, have experts to lead you. Next week I will share the notes from a second seminar, “FROM LAGREIN TO NEGROAMARO, Exploring the Rare Varietals of Italy.”

Event Description

Led by Anthony Dias Blue, Editor-In-Chief of the Tasting Panel magazine, this seminar delves into the extraordinary wines hailing from the southern region of Calabria. Celebrating traditional Calabrian varietals such as Greco, Magliocco and Gaglioppo, this seminar will outline the unique features that make Calabria one of the premier wine regions of Italy.

Piero Selvaggio, owner of Valentino restaurant and Jonathan Mitchell, General Manager of Locanda del Lago restaurant, joined Blue on the panel.

Introduction

Blue began by saying that the people of Calabria normally drank all of their native Italian varieties and didn’t export their wine until recently. The area is on the tip of the boot in Italy and one of its first settlements.

The Greco grape, according to Blue, was one of the first brought into Italy by the Greeks. The Mediterranean diet also started in Calabria. The Calabrian wines match with Calabrian food – which is mostly seafood as three sides of the area is surrounded by water. It’s not an opulent Italian area, and they have been “eating nose to tail since the second century.”

One final note, Blue said all of the wines were inexpensive; the most expensive is maybe $35, most about $20.

Selvaggio said that these are wines for today, with medium bodies, a fresher style, and, in general, no further aging is needed. The mountain and sea region of the area produces simpler foods like goat and mutton, with seafood being “the blessing of the area.” A poor region, people often left it for other countries. There are no Calabrian restaurants in the U.S., according to Selvaggio, but they do influence the menus in our Italian restaurants. Of note, he said technically, the wines of Calabria will improve.

Tasting

Azienda Agricola Ceraudo Roberto Graysusi et. Arg. IGT val di Nieto 2011

Rich rose petals, Luxardo cherries, white pepper – a really rich nose. Acidic, cherry fruit and stems, palate drying, tingly finish. Mitchell suggested pairing with smoky meats. A favorite.

Statti Mantonico IGT 2010

A honey nose, ripe cantaloupe, deep color, mouth coating viscosity, pear/fruit salad. Selvaggio suggested this wine to pair with a light seafood pasta.

Azienda Agricola Biologica Santa Venere White Ciro DOC 2012

A steely, mineral, fresh cut grapefruit nose. Acidic and fruit forward with burst of yellow peach and lime. Selvaggio said this was indicative of the food and wine pairing found in the region, and it lends itself to a seafood Carpaccio, maybe with the addition of olives and capers. I was pleased with this one.

Le Moire SRL Mute DOC Savuto 2011

Obscure grapes were used in this wine per Blue. Dusty dark blue fruit on the nose. Astringent, dry, green pepper, dry/dark plums, palate drying finish. I wanted more fruit on the palate. Selvaggio thought it could stand up to pork or pasta with a good ragu sauce, due to tannins. Mitchell noted that the grape had a thick skin but the wine was not aggressively tannic. Blue thought it was charming. Everyone wanted cheese to pair it with.

Casa Vincola Crisera SRL Nerone di Calabria IGT 2008

Nice fruit-forward nose, plum, blackberry, somewhat candied. On the mouth it was tart, dark chocolate, cigar. Selvaggio thought that other than a robust fish, this would go well with Calabrian boiled meats – called bollito. Blue liked that the length goes on an on. Mitchell thought it would pair well with items from his restaurant menu.

Vintripodi Scilla IGT 2010

This wine is a three-grape blend. Brown edge, stewed mushrooms, mint, and plums on the nose. Dark cherry skins, astringent, blackish tannins. (There are 100 plus grape varietals in Calabria per Selvaggio.)

Cantine Viola Moscato Passito IGT Calabria 2010

Sugared apricots, nut fruit, honeysuckle, French toast and syrup. Honey coating, pears and peach in vanilla bean ice cream. (This was a rare wine per Blue.)

Vintage Eve Circa Jan 2013: Chocolate Tasting Separates the Dark from Light, the Leather from the Tea, the Raspberry from the Black Currant

February 14, 2017 by evebushman

In keeping to my theory that those who spend time thinking about the aromas and flavors in their wine notice more about what is on their dinner plate, and, in taking it a step further, are blissfully aware of the trees and sky during a drive…to a wine bar or favorite restaurant.

So, it thrilled me when Wine Spectator magazine ran the story, “How to Taste Chocolate”, and supplied the handy Tasting Sheet to host a tasting, both written by Owen Dugan.

(For the article: You must login as a member but you can get the tasting sheet in a PDF. Scroll down until you see the chocolate header: www.winespectator.com/123112)

I read the one-page article with great interest as I had a special dinner coming up, my guests were chocolate fans, and this would save the pesky, “What to make for dessert” dilemma.

I learned from Dugan that I would need a variety of manufacturers, I would have to place the chocolate facedown (as name recognition – just like when tasting wine – creates a bias), glossy is more refined than dull, and we would need to slowly move the chocolate around in our mouths to detect the primary flavors.

For my tasting I cut off the section of the cardboard wrapper, which listed the cocoa percentage, and taped each underneath the corresponding serving plate. All could see that we were going dark to light, but there were some surprises (ingredients) along the way.

Dugan suggested going from light to dark, but as I wanted my guests to taste the gradual difference, from bitter to sweet, I did it opposite. Everyone enjoyed the chocolate more and more as it progressively grew less bitter as we worked our way to less cocoa and more milk.

Below is a collective of what we found during our blind tasting (Note: I used Appearance over Dugan’s “Look” and “Bite”, Flavor over “Savor.”)

Bar #1 – Appearance/First Bite: Matte, dark, clean, crisp, smooth and dry.

Flavor: Earthy, orange, coffee, leather, mushroom, smoke, tea with a short, bitter finish.

Comment: “A lot like a woman on a Sunday morning: cold and bitter!”

Bar #2 – Appearance/First Bite: More matte than glossy, dark, clean, crisp, smooth and dry.

Flavor: Earthy, leather, tea, smoke, nuts, coffee with a short to medium, bitter finish.

Comment: “The tea flavor reminds me of an Earl Gray.”

Bar #3 – Appearance/First Bite: Medium matte/gloss, medium dark and mottled, with a medium dull, grainy first impression.

Flavor: Stewed fruit, floral, savory spice, molasses, cinnamon, sweet herbs, nuts, vanilla and coffee, medium length.

Bar #4 – Appearance/First Bite: Glossy, dark, clean with a bite that was crisp, smooth and melty.

Flavor: Floral, plum, earthy, tea, molasses, orange, caramel, fruity and vanilla leading to a longer, sweeter finish.

Comment: “The best yet” and “Hot cocoa.”

Bar #5 – Appearance/First Bite: Medium matte/gloss, medium color, mottled with a crisp, smooth and grainy first taste.

Flavor: Floral, fruity, flowers, stewed fruit, pineapple, plum, citrus, raspberry, red berries, vanilla, savory spice and milk leading to a long sweet finish.

Comment: “My fave.”

Bar #6 – Appearance/First Bite: matte, light, clean, dull, smooth and melty.

Flavor: Earthy, tea, molasses, fruity, caramel, vanilla, nuts, coffee and very milky.

What was revealed

Bar #1 was Lindt Excellence, 90% Cocoa

Bar #2 was Godiva Santo Domingo, 85% Cacao*

Bar #3 was Godiva Dark Chocolate Almond, 72% Cacao

Bar #4 was Perugina Luisa, 51% Cacao

Bar #5 was Lindt Excellence, Black Currant Dark, 49% Cacao

Bar #6 was Ghirardelli Gourmet Milk, 32% Cacao

*Cacao and Cocoa are the same thing.

Conclusion

Can you say fun? Something new? Light dessert? Inexpensive? Or all four? Besides all that, the big thing we learned was that the black currant in Bar #5, was a surprise over the others. Not due to the sudden fruit, but to how we described it. Much like describing wine made from grapes, right?

And, as predicted, halfway through, at bar #3, I had more fans of the dark. My conclusion was that, just like in a wine tasting, appreciation grows as you taste and learn.

Vintage Eve Circa 9/2011: Old Bridge Cellars Tasting

May 3, 2016 by evebushman

For a recent wine tasting I was tasked with finding a wine made from the Semillon grape to share with a dozen or more other people, with the same task. I did an Google search to see what was new that I could come up with.

I was interested in trying Stickybeak as another Facebook pal had mentioned it, so I contacted the winemaker, Wayne Donaldson. Wayne and I exchanged a few e-mails and then he forwarded my query to Old Bridge Cellars.

Not a winery, “Old Bridge Cellars is an importer of fine Australian wines, and also produce their own Californian wines under the Stickybeak label, with Australian Wayne Donaldson acting as winemaker.” I e-mailed the company, told them of my quest, and they sent me the two bottles listed below to share. Below are my reviews, I used quotation marks for comments made by others in the group.

2010 Brokenwood

100% Semillon

Hunter Valley, Australia

11.5% alcohol

Appearance – Clear, diamonds, pale amber edge.

Nose – Cologne/perfume, fresh mown grass, slight kiwi, “crisp, clean.”

Palate – One guest called it an “explosion of fruit”, high acidity, “lemon/lime,” “springtime”, ending with a “lemon-flavored Jolly Rancher or Sweet Tart candy.”

Finish – Long length, one guest suggested a “pairing with Sea Bass”.

2009 Stickybeak

2009 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc

Sonoma County

72% Semillon, 28% Sauvignon Blanc

13.5 % alcohol

Appearance – Clear, palest of gold on the edge.

Nose – Grassy, honey, pineapple, “grapefruit”, “pomelo”.

Palate – green grass, “green apple”, “light fig”

Finish – One couple agreed: “Our favorite of the night!”, “Doesn’t need to pair with food!”, “I’d like with Oysters.”

My conclusion: We had nearly a dozen Semillon to try that night. We have found that only sampling one varietal, with a group, allows us to really learn about the wine’s nuances. My thought at the start, and a collective one my the end, was that the Semillons we tried from old and new world wine areas had one thing in common: aromatic noses that didn’t always carry through to the taste. It didn’t make too much a difference on what we liked, it was just an observation to call us the next time we try Semillon.

From the Old Bridge Cellars Website

In this age of ‘big company’ buyouts, increasing consolidation and mass production, Old Bridge Cellars brings you a group of Australian winemakers who retain their belief in artisan winemaking. Respecting the land and with minimal intervention in the winery, their wines remain true to the soils from which they come.

They share a fierce commitment to quality and a determination to preserve their independence and regional heritage. Many are the second, third and even fourth generations of their family to work the vineyards. It’s their intuitive understanding, quiet confidence and desire to produce only the best they can from each vintage that has made them Australian benchmarks, universally acclaimed by wine critics across the globe.

Founded in 1990, Old Bridge Cellars embraces the intense passion of these winemakers and remains one of only a few U.S. importers dedicated solely to the best of regional Australia. Our knowledge of Australian wine runs deep and has been recognized in such publications as The Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, Wine and Spirits, International Wine Cellar and Wine Enthusiast. Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate has gone so far as to say, “thanks in large part to the work of such talented importers as Old Bridge Cellars et al… American consumers have never had such an enormous selection of Australia’s finest as well as rarest wines.”

We see as our mission the promotion of Australia’s ‘real wines’, championing those winemakers who give everything in their pursuit of truly distinctive, regionally defined styles that sit comfortably with the world’s best. And who believe they can do it even better again next vintage!

It’s an enlightening, exhilarating journey. Welcome aboard.

http://www.oldbridgecellars.com “The Face of Australian Wine”

Vintage Eve Circa 9/2011: Two Bottle Post – Patland

April 26, 2016 by evebushman

As it’s the Friday before a long weekend, I give you two wines from Napa Valley’s Patland Estate Vineyards to consider drinking if you’re housebound or bound to parts unknown:

08 Proprietary Red Wine

Terra Del Cuore

14.8% alcohol

Bottle No. 1008 of 1560

Napa Valley

Color – Opaque, purple, deep ruby edge.

Aroma –Mint, cigar, wood, pepper, dark mature fruit – but not a great deal of it on the nose.

Taste – Blackberry jam, full-fruit gives way to excellent balance, nice tannins.

Finish – Long finish. Pleasantly dry.

Conclusion – Very exuberant, I liked how it started one way with so much fruit and finished with deep tannins. Drink now to 2020.

89 Eve pts.

2010 Sauvignon Blanc

14.4% alcohol

Bottle No. 363 of 600

Napa Valley

Color – Clear, clean, almost colorless save an echo of gold on the edge when held over white paper.

Aroma – Green apple, lemon, honey, unsalted butter, anise.

Taste – Tangy, crisp, acidic but not through to finish, lemon-lime, nice viscosity.

Finish – Short to medium length.

Conclusion – Perfect on a 106 degree evening on my front porch.

88 Eve pts. Drink now.

(Disclosure: These samples were sent to me from the winery for review.)

From website:
At the time of purchase, Terra del Cuore had Merlot, Petit Syrah and Sangiovese grapes planted on the estate’s property.

In 2007, those were the grapes that went into the Proprietary Red wine. A unique ruby garnet blend, rich in aromas of red berries, clove, vanillin, cigar spice and nutmeg. The wine possesses an elegantly soft, satin-like approachable finish. This particular blend is exclusive to 2007 production only.

In 2008, upon returning from a trip to wine country in Argentina and Chile, and following the advice of Jay Buoncristiani, Patland Estate’s winemaker, the decision was made to convert the vines present on the property into Malbec. The climate, the location and the quality of the soil seemed ideal for a consistently great production of a rich Malbec blend.

For the PEV 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blends, highly desirable grapes from Stagecoach vineyards were purchased.

For Cabernet Sauvignon, Jay blended 95% of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes with 5% of Malbec and created a dark, rich wine, deeply layered with aromas of black cherry, truffle, molasses, French oak, sage, vanilla and black pepper. The persistent yet balanced finish exhibits excellent depth, purity and elegance.

For the Syrah, he used 100% Syrah grapes and the wine emerged possesses the complex aromas of vibrant wild berries, toffee, maple, dark chocolate, white pepper and violets. Ripe dark berries, cedar spice and mocha continue to gush forth during the ultra fleshy velvet-textured long finish.