Vintage Eve Circa 10/2014 Sonoma Part Two: Discovering Seghesio and Mauritson

February 27, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

In this Part Two story from my Healdsburg trip, today I’ll be sharing a few tastes from Seghesio Family Vineyards and Mauritson Family Winery.

Seghesio

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Photo: Seghesio Facebook page

When Edoardo Seghesio came out to California from Italy it was to work for Italian Swiss Colony wines. He, along with all of the winery workers, was given room and board. Seghesio worked three years before getting paid; and lots of workers at the time took the money they had earned to buy land and grow grapes – which Swiss Colony encouraged.

Seghesio stuck it out for 8 years, as he was a single guy like most of the others. He became the head winemaker at Swiss Colony before cashing out. He then began to plan to return to Italy to bring a bride to California with him.

The boss didn’t want Seghesio to go back to Italy, as he was afraid he wouldn’t come back. He warned Seghesio that he would most likely run through his money, lose out on the best land, and his girl at home was probably not waiting around for him anyway. Promising Seghesio that he had marriageable nieces coming for a visit in just two months, Edoardo said yes, and ended up married to the boss’s niece. Seghesio and 16 year-old Angela waited until she was 18 to be married, then in 1895 Edoardo and Angela purchased land from “the Colony” and planted it to Zinfandel – the same Zinfandel used today to make the Home Ranch wine. By 1902, Seghesio built a house and finished his own winery on the Home Ranch.

By 1902, Seghesio built a house and finished his own winery on the Home Ranch. They got cuttings of Sangiovese in 1910. With prohibition they continued working by making wine for churches. They also planted plums during the 14-years of prohibition. The Seghesios bided their time, and were in the bulk wine business for over 80 years.

In 1949, the Seghesio Family bought the current property. They now make wine with mostly Italian grapes*; 90% are Zinfandel. During the tour we noted ginormous redwood barrels that are rumored to be the largest, and possibly the oldest, in Sonoma.

*If you consider Zinfandel to be an Italian grape

Tasting Seghesio

(Aromas and flavors separated by 😉

2013 Arneis (Italian white grape varietal) Russian River Valley

Like a fruity Viognier, peaches, pink sweet grapefruit; tangy, acidic, red delicious apples, nice palate cleanser.

2012 Barbera

Strong smoky dark fruit; dark fruit, cigar, bittersweet chocolate.

2011 Sangiovese

Milk chocolate covered cherries, figs, wet bark; sharp, biting red fruit, made me want pizza.

2011 Block 8 San Lorenzo Zinfandel Alexander Valley

Black pepper, Italian plums, mint; same flavors follow through to the palate, nice drying tannins.

2013 Sonoma County Zinfandel – their workhorse, 2/3 of all the wine they make. Cigarette, nice smoky fruit; easy drinker, with or without food.

2012 Rockpile Zinfandel

Bursting black cherry, milky, mint, earth; chewy, tannic, ripe and ready.

2012 Home Ranch Alexander Valley (the oldest owned by Seghesio)

Balanced fruit and spice of Petite Sirah and Zinfandel; I liked this blend, nice peppery feel against juicy dark fruits. My favorite.

2012 Old Vine Zinfandel – the “Big Brother” of Sonoma

Cinnamon, cut figs, wet earth; perfect expression of Sonoma Zinfandel.

Marian’s Reserve Field Blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane.

Lighter nose, dusty red to dark fruit, dark chocolate with a hint of red pepper flakes; nice and chewy, redder fruit, peppery. Another favorite.

2010 Il Cinghiale Petite Sirah

Black color, darkest of blackberries, sweet plump raisins, mushroom; port-filled chocolates, dry, spice and smoke.

Mauritson

Clay Mauritson, a 6th generation winemaker, sells the majority of his winery’s fruit to other wineries, and does about 13,000 cases of his own. The wines are distributed to restaurants mostly, and direct from winery sales. The popular Rockpile label is all from that designated area, and one of the wine grape growing areas getting a buzz.

In the bright tasting room many guests had cozied up to bar stools – Clay’s father had brought one in for himself one day and realized how comfy it was so he had to bring in more. Carrie Mauritson, Clay’s wife, shared four different soil samples with us depicting the different areas they had chosen for grape growing. The example drove home the different terroir (earth and conditions) making up their wines.

During the tour we met Clay in his laboratory tasting samples. His energy was palatable for his task at hand, surprising, as they were also knee deep in harvest at the time.

Tasting Mauritson

2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley

Allspice, grapefruit, mown grass, dried apples, lemon zest; kiwi, mango, crisp acidity, titillating finish.

2012 Chardonnay, Alexander Valley

Buttery, salted caramel, lightly toasted oak; nice oaky Chardonnay, malolactic acid, mouth-coating viscosity.

2012 Zinfandel, Dry creek Valley (They make 7 Rockpile zinfandels, this is their signature Zinfandel.)

Smooth chocolaty nose with hints of strawberry, to dark fruit; balanced fruit to pepper to tannin.

2012 Westphall Ridge Rockpile single vineyard (highest elevation)

Smoky, fruit-forward dark fruits; tannic, dark chocolate finish.

2012 Jack’s Cabin Rockpile single vineyard (lowest elevation)

Sweet dark fruit, slight port qualities, smoke, hay; great fruit and juicy finish.

2011 Rockpile Syrah, Madrone Spring Vineyard

Earthy, leather, violet; biting fruit, eucalyptus, peppery finish.

2010 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon

Sweet plums, white pepper, bark; dry, tannic yet full-blown dusty fruit.

Facebook album link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10204030874999605.1073741881.1455706632&type=1&l=ef858e481a

Napa 2017 After The Fires: Hourglass

December 15, 2017 by evebushman 2 Comments

Not sure how many locals had mentioned Hourglass Winery to me but enough that my whistle was sufficiently whetted. I sought out an appointment and, lucky for me, gained admission.

Driving up a small road off the Silverado Trail in Calistoga a small brass sign depicting an hourglass led me in the right direction. At the end of the drive we parked near a small private home and walked up to the winery. Its size and scope immediately impressed me, and I would soon attribute the same characteristics to CEO and Founder Jeff Smith: I would be blown away not only by an incredible tasting but also a vast winemaking knowledge I had yet to completely understand.

My hand whizzed over my notepad as fast as it could to keep up with Jeff’s family story, his own story and, when prompted by his mother that wanted him to prove himself worthy of turning her Calistoga property into a winery – his depth of understanding what it takes to make killer wine. Note to my winemaking friends: I have my notepad and you can read it all for yourself if you ask me nicely. Some of the notes I have shared here are designated as For The Wine Geek.

The cave we had our meeting in was created when extra dynamite was left over after making the barrel caves. Smith said something along the lines of, “We have extra dynamite, let’s blow something up!” And this cave was unlike any other I have seen, with fur covered chairs and inventive lighting…I kept waiting for the bear to show up. Which, now that I knew Smith’s sense of humor, he had a bear story too.

Jeff’s family moved to the area in 1964. St. Helena was a sleepy town until the Judgment of Paris. His father built the Wine Country Inn about a decade later. They planted fruit trees over the many acres of rocky land that they owned. It was at a cocktail party with Dan Duckhorn that his father was told he shouldn’t waste his time with fruit trees, he should plant Zinfandel vines – and he did. When Jeff’s father passed away in 1990 Jeff took over the vineyard. His mother was ready to sell by then, but that’s when Jeff convinced her to pull out the Zin to make room for Cab.

Jeff was only 26 at the time. He was fiddling around in college and in a band, but he was watching his neighbors. He decided to get some help from a pal at UC Davis, got them to look at his soil, and learned he did indeed have a great site.

Now here is where my notes veer into the geography of the land (streams, soil, gravel, minerals that combined would represent the “tip of narrow crossing” of an hourglass), the varietals grown (all five Bordeaux varietals), the mentors that would guide Jeff (Bob Foley helped with the early vintages, then came Tony Biagi who is the current winemaker) and his thirst (forgive the pun) in what seemed to me as a quest to learn it all.

For The Wine Geek: I asked about the use of the “cult” name and how it might relate to Hourglass. Jeff said there are only eight cult wineries, no more, and they are credited with defining a paradigm shift in winemaking and the high ph movement. And the movement “grew” out of the cult wine phenomenon.

Current Wines Available For Tasting (Note Blue Line and Hourglass are both separate estate wines, not a first and secondary label.)

2015 HG3 Hourglass Red Blend was what Jeff referred to as a “Bordelaise Stew”, it was different each year, with Merlot, Cabernet and one other, to-be-decided black fruit. The aromas alone that reminded me of incense Jeff said was sandalwood.

2015 Blueline Estate Cabernet Franc was destined to be my favorite. With aromas of wet gravel, a juicy palate and cigar – Jeff said this wine would only develop over time.

For the 2015 Blueline Estate Cabernet Sauvignon this time I got aromas of next day Bolognese spaghetti sauce, only because the second day is so much better than the first. The spice, blue to black fruit and killer aromatics brought up…you guessed it…a lesson in how those aromatics develop. For The Wine Geek: Somehow they can stop/suspend the polymerization during fermentation to shorten the tannins. “Unresolved tannins” is like that tea bag that steeped for too long. A “wet chemist”, that would be hired from veraison onward, would be the person to manage (and explain better than I can) this suspension process.

2014 Hourglass Estate Cabernet Sauvignon tasted like it was ten years older than a 2014, very mature I thought. Jeff said that “maturity was a function of the vineyard.” The wine would develop more of that “cigar box” in time and it’s the richness, medium acidity and minerality that makes you want to go in for that next sip. For The Wine Geek: Hourglass has never had an acid adjustment. The saving grace of Blueline is the minerality. Tannins bond with “salivary protein.”

A 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Hourglass Estate was the wine we finished with, and while whites are usually served first when we had this last I thought: what a great palate refresher. Made with 20% new oak, neutral oak and stainless steel I got a nice lime on the nose with balanced acidity and fresh fruit that lingered on the palate. I only wished I could’ve started tasting through these wines all over again. For The Wine Geek: The length of this wine came from the fruit. There was no “cat piss” odor as they have a warm climate that equals “less piss.”

Lastly, For The Wine Geek: As we were just about to say our goodbyes we got into a discussion about what influences people about wine. Jeff said that winemaker Clark Smith (Clark was in Santa Clarita once for a holiday tasting at Valencia Wine Co. where I met him the first time, and a second time when we judged together for the Long Beach Grand Cru.) did a “chemistry class” where different music was played while each person judged a wine. After more than three tries in rating the same wines in the same order – but with different music – Jeff got different results. He remembered what he had rated the wine before, and the wines were in the same order, but his results were still different! Beach Boys, jazz, hard rock, classic, classic with a modal change…each presented a new result. Jeff said his notes would “flip again and again” and possibly due to “input creating a change in the chemical pathways…” Totally going to try this myself!

#NapaFire

No one in the Hourglass family lost their home, however two of their consultants did. The winemaking crew stayed on, lost power at one point and a neighbor helped them out. When their neighbor lost their power next, Hourglass was able to help them. The fire ran 100 feet per second according to CDF. They did lose some fruit from Sonoma that would’ve been used for HG3.

Tasting at Hourglass

Our goal with winery visits is to immerse the enthusiast in the art of what we do. We seek to create an intimate experience that will deliver a greater depth of knowledge of winemaking in general and a look behind the scenes at how we apply that craft. When you visit with us, plan on an hour to an hour and a half immersion that will take you into the core of the winery to include a tasting of aging wines at rest in barrel and current bottled releases. The experience will be guided by either Proprietor Jeff Smith, Operations Manager Marybeth Egner, or Director of Private Clients Ian Fenwick, all of whom have deep knowledge of Napa Valley and are well versed in every aspect of our winemaking…read more.

https://www.hourglasswines.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

First Ever ‘International Volcanic Wine Conference’ To Be Held in New York on March 27th, 2018

November 26, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

NEW YORK (PRWEB) – John Szabo, Master Sommelier and award-winning author, has announced the inaugural ‘International Volcanic Wines Conference (IVWC)’ to be held in New York City on March 27, 2018. The event follows the global success of his definitive book on the subject, ‘Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power,’ published in 2016.

The IVWC aims to establish a volcanic wine movement, and to provide educational and promotional opportunities for volcanic wine producers internationally. The conference will act as a catalyst and facilitator to eventually bring together all of the world’s volcanic regions and create a “volcanic wine brand,” defined as a unique category of wines produced under some of the most extreme viticultural conditions on the planet. The IVWC will also help establish the volcanic wine brand as a premium category of high quality wines with a true sense of place, thereby increasing their perceived value.

“I’ve seen that wines made from volcanic soils around the world share common characteristics,” says Szabo, “yet maintain their own personalities, considering variations in not just climate, grape varieties and winemaking traditions, but also in volcanic soils themselves. It’s a fascinating world to discover.”

Wine professionals are continually discussing and debating the role of soils on wine profile, and volcanic soils have been recognized in recent years as having one of the strongest signatures. At the Volcanic Wine Conference, the first of its kind, Szabo aims to explore the unique characteristics that make volcanic wines special, drawing on experts from all related fields and wine producers from across the globe to delve deeply into the topic.

“The conference seminars will explore what differentiates volcanic wines in the world of wine, and what unites them. It will also give participants an unprecedented opportunity to taste a vast collection of volcanic wines under a single roof, with producers at hand to further explain their unique attributes,” says Szabo.

Producers from regions as diverse as Basilicata, Sicily, Soave, Campania, Santorini, Tokaj, Badacsony, Somló, Washington State and more will be participating in the inaugural conference. Winemakers, academics and journalists will be presenting educational seminars during breakout tasting sessions on various aspects of volcanic wines.

About John Szabo
John Szabo is a Toronto-based author and wine critic, and in 2004 was the first Canadian to add the Master Sommelier credential to his name. He was named ‘Canada’s best-known sommelier’ in Meininger’s Wine Business International, and he is a partner and a wine critic for WineAlign.com and freelances widely. In addition to Volcanic Wines, Salt, Grit and Power, his book titles include Pairing Food and Wine for Dummies and Sommelier Management. John also works as a restaurant consultant, and speaks and judges internationally, when he’s not making a few dozen bottles of wine from his vineyard in Eger, Hungary.

Perlis Picks: From Abe Schoener — Wine Study in the Loire: Lessons in the Foundation of Winemaking – Part Four

September 30, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

A Continuation of Abe Schoener’s [The Scholium Project]…

A NEW LESSON IN THE MORAL NATURE OF WINEMAKING: LES JARDINS DES ESMÉRALDINS

The Moral Thinking of the Wizard

There is a little more magic to mention: the invisible cellar, the shuttered chateau. But I do not want to emphasize this. Xavier does not play any of this up: like the vineyards, all of this disappears. There is no show: only wine. He does not even make a show of his methods; he never mentions his own devotion; he never draws distinctions between his way of working and his neighbors’. He does not celebrate or elevate what he does; he is utterly matter of fact. He never mentions “purity” or any other value. His only point of pride, if I read him right, is his wine’s relation to time. His only theory, insofar as I could grasp, is related to what he calls “matière”– “matter.” His labels have alchemical references (see photo); I think that he means something old-fashioned and metaphysical by this. He does not just mean “matter” or even something like information. He talks about his farming being devoted to translating matter from the field (not just the soil) to the grapes, and his pressing being devoted to translating the matter from the grapes to the juice. The density of this wine is due to this attention to matter– and also the complexity, I think. But this means that “matière” is not just some concentration of molecules, but some kind of system, with architecture, proportion, interrelation. For what else is complexity? His matter, I think, is something more like spirit or soul– not necessarily in the Christian sense, but in a way that Aristotle would understand.

Soul, of course, brings up the question of spirituality and devotion. I thought of his pressing all night and then getting up the morning to harvest fruit. I thought how differently we work at Scholium. For us winemaking is intensely intellectual and sensual– you know that– but it is also intensely athletic in a way that we love. We pride ourselves in a very American way on how fast we can get the job done well. One cannot help but call Xavier’s work “spiritual,” and I mean this only in a good way, not as a stereotype or a caricature. You could only call our work “spiritual” in a very narrow but perhaps equally beautiful way: the spirituality of Huck Finn, a very American spirituality.

It was wonderful and important for me to encounter this difference and to reflect on it.

Would we– me, Alex, Brenna, Koko, would any of us make better wines if we sat with the press all night? I don’t think so– but for us to do that and not simply be aping a quiet wizard in the Loire, for us to do that, we would have to change to our deepest metaphysical core. In this respect, what this amazing visit emphasized is that, in spite of my 1000 careful words…winemaking is not fundamentally about technique, protocol, regime or even about care. It is about decisions and stances that reach to one’s roots.

These two excellent reports by Betrand Celce are very helpful, especially on farming, and contain amazing details and photographs about Xavier’s caves. I tried not to rely on them at all and to base my report only on our conversation, but I know that I was influenced (and informed) by having read these. It is also worth noting how far ahead of the curve Betrand was: they date from 2011.

www.wineterroirs.com/2011/06/natural_wine_tasting_event_paris.html

www.wineterroirs.com/2011/08/xavier_caillard_jardins_esmeraldins_saumur.html

A note on Xavier’s labels: The typography is mostly fantastic (except for mise-en-bouteille information) and involves some straightforward imitations of Roman epigraphy in a circle at the top. (We will read this in a moment.) The rest of the words are written in the hand-drawn letters of a fantastic alphabet, the majority of which interweave alchemical symbols with the Modern Latin letters. The words in the circle are a quotation from the Latin Vulgate translation of Paul’s Epistle to the Romans: hora est jam nos de somno surgere — “now is the time to wake up from our slumber.” The allusions to alchemy are very interesting to me and not surprising. What is more unexpected is a quotation from the Vulgate. Xavier’s thinking is simple in its commitment and focus; but complex in what you might call its metaphysical underpinnings. Pay attention to every gesture.

Michael Perlis here again. A big thank you to Abe Schoener for allowing me to share this with Eve’s Wine 101 readers. And a thank you to Eve Bushman too for indulging my wish to do so.

All-New Wine Trolley Rolls Into the Santa Maria Valley

June 14, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

(Santa Maria, Calif.) – An exciting new development has made its way into the Santa Maria Valley. The Santa Maria Valley wine trolley will bring a whole new way of experiencing the wine region.

Santa Maria’s new Downtown Trolley will transport consumers between shopping center serving a holiday shuttle this year. The vehicle is equipped with a classic trolley bell.

The wine trolley will run Saturdays and Sundays, and run every 75 minutes from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. starting at Town Center West. The wine trolley will also run one additional route from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m., but will exclude Cottonwood Canyon and Presqu’ile wineries. Stops will include:

Town Center West near the pedestrian bridge (downtown Santa Maria on S. Broadway)
Costa de Oro Winery
Cottonwood Canyon Vineyard & Winery
Presqu’ile Winery
Old Town Orcutt – Old Town Market
Old Town Orcutt – Rooney’s Irish Pub

The wine trolley runs from May – September (subject to change).

The cost is $10 per person in advance, and $15 per person at the Trolley (transportation only), and is step on, step off, at your convenience. Tickets can be purchased at Ca’ Del Grevino Wine & Café Bar, Core Winery, Costa de Oro Winery, Cottonwood Canyon Winery, Nagy Wine Tasting Room, Old Town Market and the Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce Visitor & Convention Bureau. Check the Santa Maria Valley website for pick-up times and locations.

“We are absolutely thrilled about providing our visitors a new way to experience the gorgeous scenery of the Santa Maria Valley while allowing them to stop at many different locations and attractions,” said Glenn Morris, president and chief executive officer of the Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce and Visitor and Convention Bureau. “It is another fantastic reason to explore this hidden gem of an area and enjoy what we locals get to experience every day.”

The Central Coast’s most historic wine lives in the Santa Maria Valley. The area has the oldest appellation in the area and nearly two centuries of experience in growing grapes. The Santa Maria Valley is one of the most agriculturally diverse regions in the U.S. with a wealth of fruits and vegetables grown on the valley floor and vineyards hugging the hillsides. It’s a place where flavor runs rampant and taste buds can indulge because what they serve is grown, cooked and corked right here. The Santa Maria Valley has one of California’s longest growing seasons and a truly rare transverse geography resulting in the development of complex, flavorful and balanced grapes. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah are our specialties. These are composed of well-drained soils that also contribute to exceptional fruit intensity and flavor concentration.

The Santa Maria Valley is a recognized American Viticultural Area (AVA) within Santa Barbara County; the AVA encompasses one of the top wine regions in the world. The Travel Channel named the Santa Maria Valley The New Top 10 Cities for Wine Snobs.

For more information, please visit santamariavalley.com.

About Santa Maria Valley:

Serving the greater Santa Maria Valley in the heart of California’s Central Coast, the Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce and Visitor & Convention Bureau is a nonprofit association that facilitates local tourism and provides information on the region’s many attractions and visitor services. Famed for its fine wines, natural wonders, agricultural heritage and flavorful barbecue, the Santa Maria Valley offers a broad range of cultural, sporting and historical experiences. For details on Santa Maria Valley lodging, wine tasting, travel deals and e-newsletter alerts, visit santamariavalley.com or call (800) 331-3779.

Tasting with Emilien Boutillat, Winemaker of Champagne Armand de Brignac and the “Best Blanc de Noirs in the World”

May 5, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

What a rare treat it was for me to sample the current releases from Champagne Armand de Brignac, aka “Ace of Spades”, that I had to admit I have never sampled before. This is how it went:

The Stage

The boardroom of the Beverly Hills Hotel was the perfect size for a small group of wine writers, wine store buyers, restauranteurs and sommeliers. The table was set with five engraved tasting glasses, courtesy Armand de Brignac. Winemaker Emilien Boutillat sat in the center. Five metallic bottles, each its own unique glistening color, sat icing in a golden bowl. The lighting was brought up so that we could examine our samples. French bottled water was poured to cleanse our palates. A brunch was set up on the side bar to enjoy after the tasting. Sparkling silver wine buckets would soon be – only slightly – filled with leftovers. But there weren’t many leftovers…

Tasting With Emilien Boutillat

Winemaker Emilien Boutillat grew up in Champagne and worked with some very prestigious wineries in Bordeaux, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, South Africa, New Zealand, Chile and California before settling back down in France. He works now with the lead winemaking team: Jean-Jacques and Alexandre Cattier.

Boutillat said that Armand de Brignac produces “just a drop” of Champagne compared to others; only producing about 100,000 cases of all of their cuvees combined per year. Everything, including the riddling, is done by hand. What matters most is the soil, climate, the right time for harvest, blending and – only using the first press of juice. They have purchased from the same growers – who are now friends – every year for many years. “There are no tricks,” Boutillat commented, “we let the fruit talk.” All of the cuvees are multi-vintages and blends.

Brut Gold

40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

The color of pale hay with aromas of green apple, pineapple, cheddar cheese and wet pebbles. On the mouth I got the same flavors, very bright fruit, with the additions of lemon and toast. 99 Eve pts.

Rosé

50% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

A beautiful color or rose gold with notes of strawberry, Luxardo cherry and a hint of licorice on the nose followed by flavors of strawberry, limeade, orange zest and a nice long finish. (This was made as a blend, not in the saignée method.) 99 Eve pts.

Blanc de Blancs

100% Chardonnay

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

A very pale yellow in color, then a nose of ripe red delicious apple, roasted nuts, lemon-lime and white pepper. On the mouth I got pineapple, white peach, white tea and roasted nuts again. 100 Eve pts.

Blanc De Noirs Assemblage Two

100% Pinot Noir

Multi-vintage: 2008, 2009 and 2010

Pale gold in color and aromas of apricots, cream and yes…what everyone noted: peppermint. On the palate that same peppermint was apparent as well as apricot and peach. Also another incredibly long finish. Welcome to the U.S. my pretty friend! 100 Eve pts. (How could I disagree with Fine Champagne Magazine, and TastingBook.com, that named this the best Blanc De Noirs of the year in 2016?)

Demi Sec

40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

Straw in color, and a nose of fruit cocktail, cheese corn and Jasmine! In the mouth I was reminded of candied apple and cinnamon toast, and the fruit lingers for another long finish. 98 Eve pts.

About Armand de Brignac

“10th and 11th generation champagne growers, Jean-Jacques Cattier and his son, Alexandre, craft the prestige cuvées of Armand de Brignac. Their dream was to create a champagne of the most exceptional quality, that would represent the best of the best from the region, where their family have grown vines for more than 250 years. A group of just 14 highly skilled people touch a bottle of Champagne Armand de Brignac, from pressing the fruit, to the moment the bottles leave the cellars. Each step of the process is led by the human touch, from handpicking the grapes to polishing each bottle and hand-applying French pewter labels. Without the pressures of volume, the team behind Champagne Armand de Brignac focuses on each small detail, to ensure ultimate quality at every step.”

http://armanddebrignac.com/home

https://twitter.com/armanddebrignac

https://www.instagram.com/armanddebrignac/

https://www.facebook.com/ArmanddeBrignac/

CASA DE UCO LAUNCHES SALES OF FULLY MANAGED VINEYARD PARCELS IN MENDOZA

March 25, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

The boutique vineyard and resort in one of the top wine capitals of the world now offers wine enthusiasts the opportunity to become winemakers in Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza, Argentina—Casa de Uco, a family-owned vineyard and boutique resort spanning 800-acres in the Uco Valley, launched sales of its organic, fully managed vineyard parcels for wine enthusiasts from all over the world to fulfil their dreams of growing, producing and indulging in their own wine. In what is known as one of the world’s most prosperous terroir for growing Malbec grapes, Casa de Uco offers the opportunity to work side by side with its team of experts without the steep upfront costs of building a winery.

home-1 At the vineyard estate, part of the unsung wine region of Uco Valley and typically referred to as Argentina’s Napa Valley of 30 years ago, inspiring vintners can purchase one or more of Casa de Uco’s 80 plots of land, from half an acre and up starting at $45,000.

Parcel owners have a flexible level of desired involvement and can choose to engage at any and/or every stage of the process, which involves selecting the type of soil, grape picking and crushing, ageing the wine in a customized oak barrel and creating tailored names and labels. Meanwhile, Casa de Uco’s team of world-class expert agronomists and enologists take care of the maintenance, harvest, fermentation process, bottling and labeling as well as logistics of exporting the final product. The expert team is led by world-renowned Alberto Antonini, head winemaker and consultant, well-known known for pioneering Argentine Malbec wines’ international recognition and appreciation.

“Based on my 16 years of experience winemaking in Uco Valley, I can say some of Mendoza’s best wines come from Uco Valley, which is celebrated for its exceptional terroir for organic, premium wine crafting,” said Alberto Antonini.

The experience grants vineyard owners the option to take the wine home, sell it for revenue and/or include their personalized wines in Casa de Uco’s restaurant wine list.

They also receive an annual vineyard planning consultation with Casa de Uco specialists, a complimentary resort membership, complimentary stays, discounted hotel and dining rates and access to the resort’s cultural and outdoor amenities and activities.

The property, tucked away in the foothills of the snow-capped Andes Mountains, receives 300 days of sun and is organically managed under near-perfect desert-like climate, which is ideal for grape growing. There are eight grape varieties vineyard owners can choose from, including four reds and four whites.

“Eight years ago, my father and I wanted to build private residences in what was then untouched land in the Uco Valley until we realized that, like for us, winemaking is a passion for many, so we created a setting where we could share the winemaking passion with wine lovers from all over the world without the hassles that managing a vineyard entail, “said Casa de Uco’s owner and founder, Juan Tonconogy.

The property also launched sales of its 10 virgin plots among the vineyard for owners to purchase their own two-to-three-bedroom residential villa. The sustainable, turnkey villas boast unparalleled seclusion and panoramic views of the mountains and surrounding vineyards with modern yet relaxed furnishings. The villas are designed by renowned architectural firm Alberto Tonconogy & Associates, owned and founded by Juan Tonconogy’s father.

The self-sufficient villas boast green rooftops, solar and photovoltaic panels, geothermal energy in floorings and walls for heating and air-conditioning, and self-contained water and heating systems. Each site is separated by natural flora that provides maximum intimacy and most importantly, preserves the biodiversity and natural environment of the estate.

Villa and vineyard owners can take advantage of an array of activities at the resort, including parcel wine paring tastings through the vineyards, vineyard bike and horseback rides, vinotherapy spa treatments, yoga, net fishing, water rafting, vineyard star gazing, cooking classes, blending sessions and vineyard and/or mountainside “asados”, which is an Argentine BBQ cooked over open flames.

Contact info:

http://www.casadeuco.com/

+54 261 476 9831

info@casadeuco.com

Appalachian High Country is Now an Official “Wine Country”

December 31, 2016 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Eight counties in the mountains of Appalachia now have their own official “wine country.”

A 2,400-square mile area in the Appalachian mountains, encompassing parts of Tennessee, Virginia and North Carolina, has been designated the “Appalachian High Country American Viticultural Area,” according to the U.S. Tax and Trade Bureau.

That means that the soils and climate are similar in these eight counties, producing a similar effect on the grapes grown there, according to Wayne Gay, owner of Watauga Lake Winery and Ville Nove Vineyards, in Butler, Tennessee.

“The AVA designation means that we are allowed to label the grapes we grow and the wines we make as being from the Appalachian High Country. The designation is important in the wine industry, where place matters so much,” Gay said.

Most Americans have heard of Sonoma County and Napa Valley, both AVAs.

“We are very pleased that the TTB has recognized the Appalachian High Country as a specific region for growing grapes,” said Gay.

“The destination is not only good news for people involved in viticulture, but also for the region’s tourism industry,” Gay said. “The potential for tourism is phenomenal as this could mean a great increase in people visiting our area, eating at our restaurants, staying in our lodging and taking advantage of all the natural beauty of our mountain and lake region.”

The eight counties in the AVA include Carter and Johnson Counties in Tennessee, Grayson County in Virginia, and Alleghany, Ashe, Avery, Mitchell and Watauga Counties in North Carolina.

There are currently 21 commercially producing vineyards on 71 acres and 10 wineries within the Appalachian High Country AVA. An additional eight vineyards are planned, which would occupy another 37 acres.

Gay and his wife, Linda Gay, have been growing grapes at Villa Nove Vineyards in Butler, TN, for 12 years. They produce approximately 75,000 lbs. of wine grapes. Five years ago, they opened Watauga Lake Winery in Butler, TN, Johnson County. They have been instrumental in establishing the AVA, which requires soil and climate tests, and a lengthy application process.

Watauga Lake Winery and Ville Nove Vineyards are part of Great Valley Wine Trail.

The American Viticultural Area (AVA) went into effect on Nov. 28, 2016.

Tasting and Lesson: ALSACE WINE + SWINE

May 27, 2016 by evebushman Leave a Comment

A recent grand tasting of Alsatian wines was paired with pork dishes created by Chef Kris Morningstar of LA’s Terrine restaurant and Chef Chris Oh of Hanjip. Organized by lawinetasting.com and produced by Teuwen Communications NY for Wines of Alsace USA, the #DrinkAlsace #AlsaceinLA event was full of appreciative wine and food lovers.

A traditional staple on Alsace tables, pork finds its perfect pairing in the wines of the region. With one of the most varied terroirs in France and mineral-driven, aromatic varieties, Alsace’s wines have the versatility to match the equally adaptable pork….(Taste) over 60 wines—representing Alsace’s five main varieties and sparkling Crémant d’Alsace wines…

Friends Guy Lelarge and Karen Bennett

Tasting

Impressive. With 60 wines to taste (I didn’t have them all) and wonderful pork dishes to pair them with (I think I missed one) it sure was a pleasant way to while away an afternoon educating my palate. If you think white wine (Alsace is known for Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris) has to be paired with white food (fish, chicken, salad) you need to think outside the box a bit.

Every dish I tried I liked. Same with the wine. You can see a slice of the event in a one-minute slideshow here. Some of the wines that impressed me were ALL of the Cremants: Joseph Cattin Brut NV, Pfister Brut Blanc de Blancs NV, Dirler-Cade Brut 2012, Vignoble Des 2 Lunes Brut Blanc de Blancs Comete 2011, Allimant-Laugner Brut Rose NV, Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose NV, Jean-Baptiste Adam Brut Rose NV and Pierre Sparr Brut Rose NV.

After these came some tasty Pinot Blancs including Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbes 2014, Josmeyer Mise Du Printemps 2014, Charles Sparr 2013 and Dopff & Irion 2013. Of the Rieslings I enjoyed the Weinbach Cuvee Theo 2014 and Hubert Meyer 2014, though I admit that I was unable to taste all that was available, and the same for the busy Pinot Gris table. I, did, however, make up for it with some lovely Gewürztraminer: Boeckel 2014, Famille Hugel 2013, Eugene Meyer 2012, Pierre Sparr Grand Cru Mambourg 2014, Albert Mann Grand Cru Steingrubler 2012 and Marcel Deiss Grand Cru De Bergheim 2009. A few Pinot Noirs that I got into my glass included the Andre Scherer 2013,Emile Beyer De L’Hostellerie 2012, Florian Beck-Hartweg “F” 2012 and Albert Mann Clos De La Faille 2011.

Of the pork dishes, I was smitten with the “Bossam” Korean style pork with kimchi, “Cochinita Pibil Tacos” with citrus onion, cilantro and cojita and the “Torta Cubana” smoked ham, capicola, gruyere, spicy pickle was my favorite.

ROCKS & RIESLING RETROSPECTIVE, led by Master Sommelier Brian McClintic

A focus on Riesling highlighting Alsace’s ability to produce world-class examples. Terroir’s effect on the grape and its ageability will be discussed, as well as specific Grand Cru sites. A comparative tasting between new and old vintages of wines from four different soil types will follow.

McClintic began the seminar by giving us a visual of the Alsace region. The vineyards are placed north to south to catch the morning sun and take full advantage of a long growing season. There are various soils, some of which are mentioned below in the tasting notes.

In our sampling we were to have roughly 4% of the Grand Cru produced – which represented the “best of the best.” (I was beginning to salivate as we were to taste decades old Riesling and newer vintages.) McClintic said that all are good paired with Thai or Indian food (as well as the pork dishes we had enjoyed earlier) as cool Riesling handles heat well.

Seminar Tasting (Eve’s tasting notes separate aroma and taste with ; and are preceded by McClintic’s)

Trimbach Riesling 2009 and 1997

McClintic quoted the winery for saying it’s the “soil, soil, soil” that makes this a unique wine with tension on palate and “raciness.” The first bottling was in 1919, very old vines, so there is undoubtedly a wealth of experience in winemaking at Trimbach. These wines mellow with age. In this tasting McClintic thought that the 2009 was too young. However a “subdued petrol” character and some of the minerality comes through in the 1997, due to magnesium in the soil and limestone elements.

2009: A bit flinty, pale fruit, sharp lemon, ash, dried flowers; Acidic, lemon, tart, rich and long finish. 91 Eve pts.

1997: Bruised yellow apple, peach, floral; Same bruised apple, lemon, nice mouthfeel, both tart and sweet elements. Interesting. 92 Eve pts.

Weinbach 2014 and 1998

Granite instead of limestone soil type. Weinbach makes sure botrytis in wine is clean. Iron character, and iodine, is palpable on the palate. The Schlossberg site is considered “demanding”, according to the winery, and translates to beautiful things in the glass.

2014: Grass, sweet Meyer lemon, cling peaches; Tingly, pear, viscous, white pepper, honeyed finish. 92 Eve pts.

1998: Apricot brandy, golden raisin, honey, bark; Caramel, browned butter, char. 94 Eve pts.

Schlumberger 2012 and 2001

Family has more Grand Cru land than anyone else in Alsace. Lots of limestone, sandy and silt mixture with clay. Saering vineyard includes 60+ acres of land. Had the Saering label since 1800s.

2012: Chalky lemon, pineapple, green apple; sharp, unsweetened ice tea with lemon, acidic. Want to age this. 88 Eve pts.

2001: Pale honey, overripe pineapple, sandy beach; balanced fruit and acidity, not the same mouthfeel, lighter, very pleasant juxtaposition of sweet and salty. 93 Eve pts.

Zind-Humbrecht 2013 and 1993

Heavily volcanic, steep terrain, worked by hand, biodynamic. Clos St. Urbain are the highest vineyards in Alsace, almost 1,500 feet, and has a high ash content.

2013: Lemon soda, white pepper, concrete; Grapefruit juice, lemon wedge, short finish. 89 Eve pts.

1993: Courvoisier, fig, caramel candy; Thick, bruised fruit, tart on back palate was a surprise. 91 Eve pts.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Balletto Vineyards, by Barbara Barrielle

May 2, 2016 by evebushman Leave a Comment

The Balletto Family story is a true wine country farming story. Even as they segued from vegetables to grapes, the Ballettos continued to be farmers and were named 2010 Sonoma County Farmers of the Year.

And, as you visit their stunning production facility and tasting room, you would never dream that this began as a young man learning to grow produce to support his mother after his father passed away. It was family then and Balletto remains family today.

John Balletto began farming in 1977 at the age of 17, having just graduated high school when the untimely death of his father meant he would give up what looked like a promising college football and track career to take care of his family. With $200 in the bank and five acres in Sebastopol, California, John began farming. His mother, Hazel, pitched in.

By 1981, John purchased his first ranch with the help of former high school counselor and friend, Pete Barbieri. He leased more land until John and his wife Terri decided to purchase a large piece of land in order to grow more vegetables and build a new produce packing facility. This land is now the winery and one of Balletto’s larger vineyards.

John would eventually become the largest vegetable farmer north of the Golden Gate Bridge growing more than 70 different vegetables on over 700 acres. More than two million cases of mixed vegetables moved through the premises during its heyday.

In 1998, although they were still going strong in the vegetable business, there were three El Nino storms during the spring that wiped out three of their successive planting, each worth a half million dollars. It was hard economically to stay in the vegetable business.

The Ballettos already had 35 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris vineyards on their home ranch in the western hills of Sebastopol and were thrilled with the grape quality. This vineyard is still important to the Ballettos winemaking today. In order to stay in the farming business they felt grapes were their future and, in 1999, replanted vegetables to grapes and concentrated on winemaking.

The Balletto Family now has over 600 acres in the Russian River Valley and select only 10% from many different clones and soil types to make their wine. They sell the remaining 90% of their grapes to other wineries.

The Balletto wines are spectacular and excellent values. All of the fruit is Russian River Valley and all of it is estate grown. Imagine how good this wine is when you realize only 10% of the RRV production is chosen for Balletto wines.

A long-time Pinot Gris producer, this is a fabulous crisp, minerally yet adequately structured wine that is a downright bargain at $18. The Rose of Pinot Noir, at $18 is a strawberry-laced, yummy summer wine that is also well-made and could easily be an aperitif or pair with a number of fresh and bright cheeses.

One of my favorite Balletto wines is the Teresa’s Unoaked Chardonnay, named for John’s wife, with its true fruit-driven quality and excellent representation of the Russian River Valley…only $20.

I love finding great by-the-glass values in wine lists and Balletto’s competitive pricing makes this easy. Dining at Occidental’s hot restaurant, Hazel, two nights ago, I was delighted to find both a Balletto RRV Pinot Noir as well as the Rose for $10 a glass. These wines are well-made by a loving family with history, a quality that outstrips the dot.commers investing in a wine country dream. This family built one.

Balletto produces a Russian River Valley Estate Pinot Noir as well as many single vineyard Pinots. Not resting on their laurels, Balletto and winemaker Anthony Beckman keep pushing the envelope into new Pinot Noir territories with the latest plantings in the up-and-coming Petaluma Gap area (Hazel’s Vineyard, named for John’s mother.) Balletto’s entry-level Pinot Noir has won many awards over many vintages and, at $29, is enormous value for the smoky, earthy wine that maintains a balance of delicious red berry fruitiness.

Balletto’s single vineyard Pinot Noirs from their home ranch at Sexton Hill Vineyard to the acclaimed Sonoma Coast area and many areas in between don’t break the bank either. Solid and delicious with each vineyard representing a different palate of aromas and flavors, Balletto is a true standout in Russian River Valley production. They even make an RRV Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel…and a Pinot sparkler.

A touching fact that I did not hear about when I visited was the Balletto has their own “Field of Dreams” thanks to the request of John’s vineyard workers who asked to use a vacant four acres as a baseball field. John went above and beyond by building a true regulation baseball field hidden among vineyards.

The entire Balletto family is involved with the winery so, visiting this gorgeous place, may mean meeting up with the true stars of farming and winemaking in the Russian River Valley.

Balletto Vineyards and Winery: http://ballettovineyards.com/