Vintage Eve Circa 6/2015: Living the Vida LoCa Via Lodi

August 14, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

The #LAWineWriters struck again en masse for a recent tasting and lesson, this time on the Lodi winemaking region:

Camron King and Craig Ledbetter were on hand to tell us all about the wineries and vineyards in LoCa, aka the wines of Lodi. Camron is the director of the Lodi Winegrape Commission, and Craig is a partner at VinoFarms, and helped developed the region’s benchmark 3rd-party certified sustainability program.

Introduction

Camron, to get us up to speed, gave us an overview of the Lodi region and then led us through the tasting. Maybe three of our group of 12 #LAWineWriters had visited Lodi. Camron said Lodi is directly east of the San Francisco Bay, giving them a “beautiful region” for wine grape growing due to the pacific breezes. Lodi does have warm degree-days in summer time and during the growing period, but the delta breezes provide a 40 – 45 degree cooling change and that coolness develops great acidity in the fruit.

Lodi History

They have been growing grapes in Lodi since the 1850s. Over 100 different wine varietals, from Albariño to Zinfandel, including old and new world wines, and all are “expressing quite nicely.” Now they have over 85 wineries and of those 65 having tasting rooms, making the growth perfect for wine tourism. Many wineries are small, boutique and direct-to-consumer. Michael David Winery, with its 7 Deadly Zin, is their biggest commercial winery.

With wine production in every U.S. state many of these states get their grapes from Lodi. Leading with many different varietals, Lodi helps others meet the demand for wine.

The longevity of the famous old vines in Lodi are due to the sandy soil, and because of that soil they don’t have the pests that other grape growing regions deal with. And according to our hosts, Zinfandel loves sandy soils. Though “the flagship variety” in Lodi is Zinfandel – and they are the world’s leading producer of Zinfandel, and produce about 40% for the state – they have wine varietals from all over the world.

Many vines are over 100 year old. They have one of the oldest, 132 years old, the Bechthold Vineyard, (vineyard of the year designate in 2014) which produces Cinsault. Bechthold isn’t the only Lodi winery to win a recent award, Delicato Vineyard is the winery of the year for 2014.

Also in 2014 “The Ledbetter family, which owns and operates Lodi-based Vino Farms, received the California Association of Winegrape Growers’ Grower of the Year Award…” more.

Lodi’s famous Zinfandel, and other grapes, may be picked at a higher brix level, which will translate to higher alcohol. And across the board, the majority of the wines are priced up to about $30.

A Word about Water

Homes use more wine than vines do. Though producing more food now then in past years they are using less water too. In a near joint quote Camron and Craig said, “This is a health food product, relaxes us and minimizes conflict – at times…it’s the wine, not the cheese or the almond, people talk about.”

The Ledbetter Family

Craig Ledbetter is a third generation wine grape grower, with zero association with any of the wines we were set to taste. He is interested in selling the region as a whole. In 1972 Craig’s grandfather, along with two partners, moved to Lodi to start farming wine grapes. Vino Farms now farms 16,000 acres, and is still a family operation with members living in different counties (they farm in 8) all over California.

Their goal is to improve the reputation of “the valley” for being too hot. It may get up to the low 90s during the day but it dips down to 50s in the night. Lodi growers know they can grow high quality wines with these conditions. Stags Leap in Napa has a hotter climate than Lodi, Craig said, but they “don’t compete with Napa.”

Town of Lodi

They have a beautiful downtown area, made up of cobblestone streets with plenty of shady trees. The city crest is a grape cluster, the buses are called the GrapeLine and the shopping center is The Vineyards. Population is 60,000 with most in the wine industry. The tasting rooms are considered “quaint” as family members man most. Lodi is considered to be a very philanthropic community that is very “tied together” and vested in the future.

Tasting

Aromas and flavors separated by ;

2014 LangeTwins Sauvignon Blanc (89 WE)

Bright green apples, buttery caramel, Meyer lemon; full and viscous, lemon zest, refreshing, crushed pineapple.

2013 Harney Lane Albariño

Sweet Hawaiian pineapple, fresh apricot, cut pear with a hint of anise; the same lovely fruit, nice medium acid, long finish. Well done. There are lots of Albariño wines in the restaurant and tasting room menus in Lodi according to our hosts.

2013 Bokisch Vineyard Vista Luna Verdelho

Candied red apple, kiwi, lemon-lime, cling peaches; not a sweet palate, more of a welcoming tang followed by balanced citrus and tropical fruit. This would be nice with a cool seafood salad.

2012 Bokisch Vineyard Tempranillo

Plum, cigar, sautéed mushroom, blueberry; dark fruit, dusty, dry, tannic. Can I have my New York steak now? Well done, wine that is.

2012 M2 Wines Soucie Vineyard Zinfandel (Old Vines from 1916)

Blueberry and blackberry jams, milk and dark chocolate, a hint of mint; very balanced, a perfect marriage of fruit and spice. I’d love this in a chocolate pairing.

2013 St. Amant Marian’s Vineyard Zinfandel (Old vines from 1902)

Heavy dusty dark fruit, black olive, black peppercorns, can’t wait to taste; chewy spicy fruit, nice and tannic, want steak with this one too.

Learn more and plan your visit: http://www.lodiwine.com

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

The Circuitous Path from Network News to Fine Wine, by Tim Ortman (Part Four, Conclusion)

June 28, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

In the wine business, there are many qualifications and titles that project accomplishment, and numerous organizations that offer the necessary education and testing. Sommelier had a nice ring to it, so I decide to enter the gauntlet that is the Court of Master Sommeliers, having no idea what lay ahead. I learned there are 4 levels to that program: 1) Introductory, 2) Certified, 3) Advanced, and 4) Master. The mentoring from which I so benefitted during my news days would be mandatory if I hoped to survive this brave new world.

Fortunately, the wine world isn’t just full of wine snobs. There are countless educated people in the wine business who genuinely enjoy sharing their knowledge with others. I quickly hitched my wagon to a friend who was studying to become a Master Sommelier with the Court of Masters. His level of study was fare more intense that mine, but he was happy to have me tag along and join his tasting group, an integral component to unlocking the secrets of ‘blind tasting’. Concealing a wine’s identity and trying to determine its origin and age solely by what’s in the glass is a daunting task. But, with the right methodology (the Court of Masters’ methodology) and plenty of practice, it can be mastered.

However, for someone who had never worked in a restaurant, the Court’s required service component would be far more frightening for me. Luckily, the same gracious tutor also offered to mentor me on what would be expected for the exam’s nerve-racking service component.

In addition to the blind tasting and service elements, as with most tests, there would be a written portion. The course syllabus’ suggesting reading listed about 20 scholarly wine publications written by renowned wine authors, each of them encyclopedic in size. Unlike the group tastings, this would be independent study. But where in the world would I find the time to read through tens of thousands of pages on the world’s wine types, regions, clones, soils, maps, graphs, and history, not to mention myriad different grape-growing and wine-making practices?

During my previous decades in news coverage, I had tried to understand the elusive path towards middle-Eastern peace. That path looked far easier than the Sommelier track, which I was contemplating.

Through the course of the next year, and after numerous blind tastings, early morning map studies, and a crash course in wine service, I somehow survived the first two levels of the Court of Master Sommeliers to become an official Certified Sommelier. Both the process and the achievement were a confidence-builder in my new profession. Whether with clients or colleagues, I could more freely and comfortably discuss all things wine-related. Additionally, that confidence opened up doors. Job opportunities appeared and introductions were made to collectors and vintners. I worked with a Paso Robles winemaker to produce two vintages of my own wine; Cab2, a blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. It was an enlightening and successful endeavor but the long-distance relationship proved too challenging. I began attending casual wine groups with friends. Eventually, I was invited to join and inducted into the esteemed Confrèrie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. Regardless of how lofty or pedestrian the group may be, the goal is to enjoy fine wine with good friends… which always pairs nicely with any wine.

While my passion for wine became a full-time focus, professionally, I carved out a comfortable niche consulting for restaurants on a part-time basis, sharing my knowledge when needed. This allowed for an occasional return to journalism, producing interesting projects, also on a part-time basis. I was able to simultaneously pursue my two interests; wine and journalism.With two part-time pursuits, I could devote attention towards writing a memoir about those halcyon days spent abroad. As that rough manuscript became a finished book, I reflected on my earlier journeys. And, it became apparent that two different seeds had been planted at the same time. My young journalistic roots had grown intertwined with a budding love of wine. It would be a long and fruitful evolution that would last a lifetime.

Tim Ortman is an Emmy Award-winning cameraman and producer and author of the new book, Newsreal: A View Through the Lens When… He is a certified Sommelier and member of La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. Connect with him on Facebook, @TimOrtmanWriter.

Vintage Eve Circa 10/2014 Sonoma Part Two: Discovering Seghesio and Mauritson

February 27, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

In this Part Two story from my Healdsburg trip, today I’ll be sharing a few tastes from Seghesio Family Vineyards and Mauritson Family Winery.

Seghesio

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Photo: Seghesio Facebook page

When Edoardo Seghesio came out to California from Italy it was to work for Italian Swiss Colony wines. He, along with all of the winery workers, was given room and board. Seghesio worked three years before getting paid; and lots of workers at the time took the money they had earned to buy land and grow grapes – which Swiss Colony encouraged.

Seghesio stuck it out for 8 years, as he was a single guy like most of the others. He became the head winemaker at Swiss Colony before cashing out. He then began to plan to return to Italy to bring a bride to California with him.

The boss didn’t want Seghesio to go back to Italy, as he was afraid he wouldn’t come back. He warned Seghesio that he would most likely run through his money, lose out on the best land, and his girl at home was probably not waiting around for him anyway. Promising Seghesio that he had marriageable nieces coming for a visit in just two months, Edoardo said yes, and ended up married to the boss’s niece. Seghesio and 16 year-old Angela waited until she was 18 to be married, then in 1895 Edoardo and Angela purchased land from “the Colony” and planted it to Zinfandel – the same Zinfandel used today to make the Home Ranch wine. By 1902, Seghesio built a house and finished his own winery on the Home Ranch.

By 1902, Seghesio built a house and finished his own winery on the Home Ranch. They got cuttings of Sangiovese in 1910. With prohibition they continued working by making wine for churches. They also planted plums during the 14-years of prohibition. The Seghesios bided their time, and were in the bulk wine business for over 80 years.

In 1949, the Seghesio Family bought the current property. They now make wine with mostly Italian grapes*; 90% are Zinfandel. During the tour we noted ginormous redwood barrels that are rumored to be the largest, and possibly the oldest, in Sonoma.

*If you consider Zinfandel to be an Italian grape

Tasting Seghesio

(Aromas and flavors separated by 😉

2013 Arneis (Italian white grape varietal) Russian River Valley

Like a fruity Viognier, peaches, pink sweet grapefruit; tangy, acidic, red delicious apples, nice palate cleanser.

2012 Barbera

Strong smoky dark fruit; dark fruit, cigar, bittersweet chocolate.

2011 Sangiovese

Milk chocolate covered cherries, figs, wet bark; sharp, biting red fruit, made me want pizza.

2011 Block 8 San Lorenzo Zinfandel Alexander Valley

Black pepper, Italian plums, mint; same flavors follow through to the palate, nice drying tannins.

2013 Sonoma County Zinfandel – their workhorse, 2/3 of all the wine they make. Cigarette, nice smoky fruit; easy drinker, with or without food.

2012 Rockpile Zinfandel

Bursting black cherry, milky, mint, earth; chewy, tannic, ripe and ready.

2012 Home Ranch Alexander Valley (the oldest owned by Seghesio)

Balanced fruit and spice of Petite Sirah and Zinfandel; I liked this blend, nice peppery feel against juicy dark fruits. My favorite.

2012 Old Vine Zinfandel – the “Big Brother” of Sonoma

Cinnamon, cut figs, wet earth; perfect expression of Sonoma Zinfandel.

Marian’s Reserve Field Blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane.

Lighter nose, dusty red to dark fruit, dark chocolate with a hint of red pepper flakes; nice and chewy, redder fruit, peppery. Another favorite.

2010 Il Cinghiale Petite Sirah

Black color, darkest of blackberries, sweet plump raisins, mushroom; port-filled chocolates, dry, spice and smoke.

Mauritson

Clay Mauritson, a 6th generation winemaker, sells the majority of his winery’s fruit to other wineries, and does about 13,000 cases of his own. The wines are distributed to restaurants mostly, and direct from winery sales. The popular Rockpile label is all from that designated area, and one of the wine grape growing areas getting a buzz.

In the bright tasting room many guests had cozied up to bar stools – Clay’s father had brought one in for himself one day and realized how comfy it was so he had to bring in more. Carrie Mauritson, Clay’s wife, shared four different soil samples with us depicting the different areas they had chosen for grape growing. The example drove home the different terroir (earth and conditions) making up their wines.

During the tour we met Clay in his laboratory tasting samples. His energy was palatable for his task at hand, surprising, as they were also knee deep in harvest at the time.

Tasting Mauritson

2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley

Allspice, grapefruit, mown grass, dried apples, lemon zest; kiwi, mango, crisp acidity, titillating finish.

2012 Chardonnay, Alexander Valley

Buttery, salted caramel, lightly toasted oak; nice oaky Chardonnay, malolactic acid, mouth-coating viscosity.

2012 Zinfandel, Dry creek Valley (They make 7 Rockpile zinfandels, this is their signature Zinfandel.)

Smooth chocolaty nose with hints of strawberry, to dark fruit; balanced fruit to pepper to tannin.

2012 Westphall Ridge Rockpile single vineyard (highest elevation)

Smoky, fruit-forward dark fruits; tannic, dark chocolate finish.

2012 Jack’s Cabin Rockpile single vineyard (lowest elevation)

Sweet dark fruit, slight port qualities, smoke, hay; great fruit and juicy finish.

2011 Rockpile Syrah, Madrone Spring Vineyard

Earthy, leather, violet; biting fruit, eucalyptus, peppery finish.

2010 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon

Sweet plums, white pepper, bark; dry, tannic yet full-blown dusty fruit.

Facebook album link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10204030874999605.1073741881.1455706632&type=1&l=ef858e481a

Napa 2017 After The Fires: Hourglass

December 15, 2017 by evebushman 2 Comments

Not sure how many locals had mentioned Hourglass Winery to me but enough that my whistle was sufficiently whetted. I sought out an appointment and, lucky for me, gained admission.

Driving up a small road off the Silverado Trail in Calistoga a small brass sign depicting an hourglass led me in the right direction. At the end of the drive we parked near a small private home and walked up to the winery. Its size and scope immediately impressed me, and I would soon attribute the same characteristics to CEO and Founder Jeff Smith: I would be blown away not only by an incredible tasting but also a vast winemaking knowledge I had yet to completely understand.

My hand whizzed over my notepad as fast as it could to keep up with Jeff’s family story, his own story and, when prompted by his mother that wanted him to prove himself worthy of turning her Calistoga property into a winery – his depth of understanding what it takes to make killer wine. Note to my winemaking friends: I have my notepad and you can read it all for yourself if you ask me nicely. Some of the notes I have shared here are designated as For The Wine Geek.

The cave we had our meeting in was created when extra dynamite was left over after making the barrel caves. Smith said something along the lines of, “We have extra dynamite, let’s blow something up!” And this cave was unlike any other I have seen, with fur covered chairs and inventive lighting…I kept waiting for the bear to show up. Which, now that I knew Smith’s sense of humor, he had a bear story too.

Jeff’s family moved to the area in 1964. St. Helena was a sleepy town until the Judgment of Paris. His father built the Wine Country Inn about a decade later. They planted fruit trees over the many acres of rocky land that they owned. It was at a cocktail party with Dan Duckhorn that his father was told he shouldn’t waste his time with fruit trees, he should plant Zinfandel vines – and he did. When Jeff’s father passed away in 1990 Jeff took over the vineyard. His mother was ready to sell by then, but that’s when Jeff convinced her to pull out the Zin to make room for Cab.

Jeff was only 26 at the time. He was fiddling around in college and in a band, but he was watching his neighbors. He decided to get some help from a pal at UC Davis, got them to look at his soil, and learned he did indeed have a great site.

Now here is where my notes veer into the geography of the land (streams, soil, gravel, minerals that combined would represent the “tip of narrow crossing” of an hourglass), the varietals grown (all five Bordeaux varietals), the mentors that would guide Jeff (Bob Foley helped with the early vintages, then came Tony Biagi who is the current winemaker) and his thirst (forgive the pun) in what seemed to me as a quest to learn it all.

For The Wine Geek: I asked about the use of the “cult” name and how it might relate to Hourglass. Jeff said there are only eight cult wineries, no more, and they are credited with defining a paradigm shift in winemaking and the high ph movement. And the movement “grew” out of the cult wine phenomenon.

Current Wines Available For Tasting (Note Blue Line and Hourglass are both separate estate wines, not a first and secondary label.)

2015 HG3 Hourglass Red Blend was what Jeff referred to as a “Bordelaise Stew”, it was different each year, with Merlot, Cabernet and one other, to-be-decided black fruit. The aromas alone that reminded me of incense Jeff said was sandalwood.

2015 Blueline Estate Cabernet Franc was destined to be my favorite. With aromas of wet gravel, a juicy palate and cigar – Jeff said this wine would only develop over time.

For the 2015 Blueline Estate Cabernet Sauvignon this time I got aromas of next day Bolognese spaghetti sauce, only because the second day is so much better than the first. The spice, blue to black fruit and killer aromatics brought up…you guessed it…a lesson in how those aromatics develop. For The Wine Geek: Somehow they can stop/suspend the polymerization during fermentation to shorten the tannins. “Unresolved tannins” is like that tea bag that steeped for too long. A “wet chemist”, that would be hired from veraison onward, would be the person to manage (and explain better than I can) this suspension process.

2014 Hourglass Estate Cabernet Sauvignon tasted like it was ten years older than a 2014, very mature I thought. Jeff said that “maturity was a function of the vineyard.” The wine would develop more of that “cigar box” in time and it’s the richness, medium acidity and minerality that makes you want to go in for that next sip. For The Wine Geek: Hourglass has never had an acid adjustment. The saving grace of Blueline is the minerality. Tannins bond with “salivary protein.”

A 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Hourglass Estate was the wine we finished with, and while whites are usually served first when we had this last I thought: what a great palate refresher. Made with 20% new oak, neutral oak and stainless steel I got a nice lime on the nose with balanced acidity and fresh fruit that lingered on the palate. I only wished I could’ve started tasting through these wines all over again. For The Wine Geek: The length of this wine came from the fruit. There was no “cat piss” odor as they have a warm climate that equals “less piss.”

Lastly, For The Wine Geek: As we were just about to say our goodbyes we got into a discussion about what influences people about wine. Jeff said that winemaker Clark Smith (Clark was in Santa Clarita once for a holiday tasting at Valencia Wine Co. where I met him the first time, and a second time when we judged together for the Long Beach Grand Cru.) did a “chemistry class” where different music was played while each person judged a wine. After more than three tries in rating the same wines in the same order – but with different music – Jeff got different results. He remembered what he had rated the wine before, and the wines were in the same order, but his results were still different! Beach Boys, jazz, hard rock, classic, classic with a modal change…each presented a new result. Jeff said his notes would “flip again and again” and possibly due to “input creating a change in the chemical pathways…” Totally going to try this myself!

#NapaFire

No one in the Hourglass family lost their home, however two of their consultants did. The winemaking crew stayed on, lost power at one point and a neighbor helped them out. When their neighbor lost their power next, Hourglass was able to help them. The fire ran 100 feet per second according to CDF. They did lose some fruit from Sonoma that would’ve been used for HG3.

Tasting at Hourglass

Our goal with winery visits is to immerse the enthusiast in the art of what we do. We seek to create an intimate experience that will deliver a greater depth of knowledge of winemaking in general and a look behind the scenes at how we apply that craft. When you visit with us, plan on an hour to an hour and a half immersion that will take you into the core of the winery to include a tasting of aging wines at rest in barrel and current bottled releases. The experience will be guided by either Proprietor Jeff Smith, Operations Manager Marybeth Egner, or Director of Private Clients Ian Fenwick, all of whom have deep knowledge of Napa Valley and are well versed in every aspect of our winemaking…read more.

https://www.hourglasswines.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

First Ever ‘International Volcanic Wine Conference’ To Be Held in New York on March 27th, 2018

November 26, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

NEW YORK (PRWEB) – John Szabo, Master Sommelier and award-winning author, has announced the inaugural ‘International Volcanic Wines Conference (IVWC)’ to be held in New York City on March 27, 2018. The event follows the global success of his definitive book on the subject, ‘Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power,’ published in 2016.

The IVWC aims to establish a volcanic wine movement, and to provide educational and promotional opportunities for volcanic wine producers internationally. The conference will act as a catalyst and facilitator to eventually bring together all of the world’s volcanic regions and create a “volcanic wine brand,” defined as a unique category of wines produced under some of the most extreme viticultural conditions on the planet. The IVWC will also help establish the volcanic wine brand as a premium category of high quality wines with a true sense of place, thereby increasing their perceived value.

“I’ve seen that wines made from volcanic soils around the world share common characteristics,” says Szabo, “yet maintain their own personalities, considering variations in not just climate, grape varieties and winemaking traditions, but also in volcanic soils themselves. It’s a fascinating world to discover.”

Wine professionals are continually discussing and debating the role of soils on wine profile, and volcanic soils have been recognized in recent years as having one of the strongest signatures. At the Volcanic Wine Conference, the first of its kind, Szabo aims to explore the unique characteristics that make volcanic wines special, drawing on experts from all related fields and wine producers from across the globe to delve deeply into the topic.

“The conference seminars will explore what differentiates volcanic wines in the world of wine, and what unites them. It will also give participants an unprecedented opportunity to taste a vast collection of volcanic wines under a single roof, with producers at hand to further explain their unique attributes,” says Szabo.

Producers from regions as diverse as Basilicata, Sicily, Soave, Campania, Santorini, Tokaj, Badacsony, Somló, Washington State and more will be participating in the inaugural conference. Winemakers, academics and journalists will be presenting educational seminars during breakout tasting sessions on various aspects of volcanic wines.

About John Szabo
John Szabo is a Toronto-based author and wine critic, and in 2004 was the first Canadian to add the Master Sommelier credential to his name. He was named ‘Canada’s best-known sommelier’ in Meininger’s Wine Business International, and he is a partner and a wine critic for WineAlign.com and freelances widely. In addition to Volcanic Wines, Salt, Grit and Power, his book titles include Pairing Food and Wine for Dummies and Sommelier Management. John also works as a restaurant consultant, and speaks and judges internationally, when he’s not making a few dozen bottles of wine from his vineyard in Eger, Hungary.

Perlis Picks: From Abe Schoener — Wine Study in the Loire: Lessons in the Foundation of Winemaking – Part Four

September 30, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

A Continuation of Abe Schoener’s [The Scholium Project]…

A NEW LESSON IN THE MORAL NATURE OF WINEMAKING: LES JARDINS DES ESMÉRALDINS

The Moral Thinking of the Wizard

There is a little more magic to mention: the invisible cellar, the shuttered chateau. But I do not want to emphasize this. Xavier does not play any of this up: like the vineyards, all of this disappears. There is no show: only wine. He does not even make a show of his methods; he never mentions his own devotion; he never draws distinctions between his way of working and his neighbors’. He does not celebrate or elevate what he does; he is utterly matter of fact. He never mentions “purity” or any other value. His only point of pride, if I read him right, is his wine’s relation to time. His only theory, insofar as I could grasp, is related to what he calls “matière”– “matter.” His labels have alchemical references (see photo); I think that he means something old-fashioned and metaphysical by this. He does not just mean “matter” or even something like information. He talks about his farming being devoted to translating matter from the field (not just the soil) to the grapes, and his pressing being devoted to translating the matter from the grapes to the juice. The density of this wine is due to this attention to matter– and also the complexity, I think. But this means that “matière” is not just some concentration of molecules, but some kind of system, with architecture, proportion, interrelation. For what else is complexity? His matter, I think, is something more like spirit or soul– not necessarily in the Christian sense, but in a way that Aristotle would understand.

Soul, of course, brings up the question of spirituality and devotion. I thought of his pressing all night and then getting up the morning to harvest fruit. I thought how differently we work at Scholium. For us winemaking is intensely intellectual and sensual– you know that– but it is also intensely athletic in a way that we love. We pride ourselves in a very American way on how fast we can get the job done well. One cannot help but call Xavier’s work “spiritual,” and I mean this only in a good way, not as a stereotype or a caricature. You could only call our work “spiritual” in a very narrow but perhaps equally beautiful way: the spirituality of Huck Finn, a very American spirituality.

It was wonderful and important for me to encounter this difference and to reflect on it.

Would we– me, Alex, Brenna, Koko, would any of us make better wines if we sat with the press all night? I don’t think so– but for us to do that and not simply be aping a quiet wizard in the Loire, for us to do that, we would have to change to our deepest metaphysical core. In this respect, what this amazing visit emphasized is that, in spite of my 1000 careful words…winemaking is not fundamentally about technique, protocol, regime or even about care. It is about decisions and stances that reach to one’s roots.

These two excellent reports by Betrand Celce are very helpful, especially on farming, and contain amazing details and photographs about Xavier’s caves. I tried not to rely on them at all and to base my report only on our conversation, but I know that I was influenced (and informed) by having read these. It is also worth noting how far ahead of the curve Betrand was: they date from 2011.

www.wineterroirs.com/2011/06/natural_wine_tasting_event_paris.html

www.wineterroirs.com/2011/08/xavier_caillard_jardins_esmeraldins_saumur.html

A note on Xavier’s labels: The typography is mostly fantastic (except for mise-en-bouteille information) and involves some straightforward imitations of Roman epigraphy in a circle at the top. (We will read this in a moment.) The rest of the words are written in the hand-drawn letters of a fantastic alphabet, the majority of which interweave alchemical symbols with the Modern Latin letters. The words in the circle are a quotation from the Latin Vulgate translation of Paul’s Epistle to the Romans: hora est jam nos de somno surgere — “now is the time to wake up from our slumber.” The allusions to alchemy are very interesting to me and not surprising. What is more unexpected is a quotation from the Vulgate. Xavier’s thinking is simple in its commitment and focus; but complex in what you might call its metaphysical underpinnings. Pay attention to every gesture.

Michael Perlis here again. A big thank you to Abe Schoener for allowing me to share this with Eve’s Wine 101 readers. And a thank you to Eve Bushman too for indulging my wish to do so.

All-New Wine Trolley Rolls Into the Santa Maria Valley

June 14, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

(Santa Maria, Calif.) – An exciting new development has made its way into the Santa Maria Valley. The Santa Maria Valley wine trolley will bring a whole new way of experiencing the wine region.

Santa Maria’s new Downtown Trolley will transport consumers between shopping center serving a holiday shuttle this year. The vehicle is equipped with a classic trolley bell.

The wine trolley will run Saturdays and Sundays, and run every 75 minutes from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. starting at Town Center West. The wine trolley will also run one additional route from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m., but will exclude Cottonwood Canyon and Presqu’ile wineries. Stops will include:

Town Center West near the pedestrian bridge (downtown Santa Maria on S. Broadway)
Costa de Oro Winery
Cottonwood Canyon Vineyard & Winery
Presqu’ile Winery
Old Town Orcutt – Old Town Market
Old Town Orcutt – Rooney’s Irish Pub

The wine trolley runs from May – September (subject to change).

The cost is $10 per person in advance, and $15 per person at the Trolley (transportation only), and is step on, step off, at your convenience. Tickets can be purchased at Ca’ Del Grevino Wine & Café Bar, Core Winery, Costa de Oro Winery, Cottonwood Canyon Winery, Nagy Wine Tasting Room, Old Town Market and the Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce Visitor & Convention Bureau. Check the Santa Maria Valley website for pick-up times and locations.

“We are absolutely thrilled about providing our visitors a new way to experience the gorgeous scenery of the Santa Maria Valley while allowing them to stop at many different locations and attractions,” said Glenn Morris, president and chief executive officer of the Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce and Visitor and Convention Bureau. “It is another fantastic reason to explore this hidden gem of an area and enjoy what we locals get to experience every day.”

The Central Coast’s most historic wine lives in the Santa Maria Valley. The area has the oldest appellation in the area and nearly two centuries of experience in growing grapes. The Santa Maria Valley is one of the most agriculturally diverse regions in the U.S. with a wealth of fruits and vegetables grown on the valley floor and vineyards hugging the hillsides. It’s a place where flavor runs rampant and taste buds can indulge because what they serve is grown, cooked and corked right here. The Santa Maria Valley has one of California’s longest growing seasons and a truly rare transverse geography resulting in the development of complex, flavorful and balanced grapes. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah are our specialties. These are composed of well-drained soils that also contribute to exceptional fruit intensity and flavor concentration.

The Santa Maria Valley is a recognized American Viticultural Area (AVA) within Santa Barbara County; the AVA encompasses one of the top wine regions in the world. The Travel Channel named the Santa Maria Valley The New Top 10 Cities for Wine Snobs.

For more information, please visit santamariavalley.com.

About Santa Maria Valley:

Serving the greater Santa Maria Valley in the heart of California’s Central Coast, the Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce and Visitor & Convention Bureau is a nonprofit association that facilitates local tourism and provides information on the region’s many attractions and visitor services. Famed for its fine wines, natural wonders, agricultural heritage and flavorful barbecue, the Santa Maria Valley offers a broad range of cultural, sporting and historical experiences. For details on Santa Maria Valley lodging, wine tasting, travel deals and e-newsletter alerts, visit santamariavalley.com or call (800) 331-3779.

Tasting with Emilien Boutillat, Winemaker of Champagne Armand de Brignac and the “Best Blanc de Noirs in the World”

May 5, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

What a rare treat it was for me to sample the current releases from Champagne Armand de Brignac, aka “Ace of Spades”, that I had to admit I have never sampled before. This is how it went:

The Stage

The boardroom of the Beverly Hills Hotel was the perfect size for a small group of wine writers, wine store buyers, restauranteurs and sommeliers. The table was set with five engraved tasting glasses, courtesy Armand de Brignac. Winemaker Emilien Boutillat sat in the center. Five metallic bottles, each its own unique glistening color, sat icing in a golden bowl. The lighting was brought up so that we could examine our samples. French bottled water was poured to cleanse our palates. A brunch was set up on the side bar to enjoy after the tasting. Sparkling silver wine buckets would soon be – only slightly – filled with leftovers. But there weren’t many leftovers…

Tasting With Emilien Boutillat

Winemaker Emilien Boutillat grew up in Champagne and worked with some very prestigious wineries in Bordeaux, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, South Africa, New Zealand, Chile and California before settling back down in France. He works now with the lead winemaking team: Jean-Jacques and Alexandre Cattier.

Boutillat said that Armand de Brignac produces “just a drop” of Champagne compared to others; only producing about 100,000 cases of all of their cuvees combined per year. Everything, including the riddling, is done by hand. What matters most is the soil, climate, the right time for harvest, blending and – only using the first press of juice. They have purchased from the same growers – who are now friends – every year for many years. “There are no tricks,” Boutillat commented, “we let the fruit talk.” All of the cuvees are multi-vintages and blends.

Brut Gold

40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

The color of pale hay with aromas of green apple, pineapple, cheddar cheese and wet pebbles. On the mouth I got the same flavors, very bright fruit, with the additions of lemon and toast. 99 Eve pts.

Rosé

50% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

A beautiful color or rose gold with notes of strawberry, Luxardo cherry and a hint of licorice on the nose followed by flavors of strawberry, limeade, orange zest and a nice long finish. (This was made as a blend, not in the saignée method.) 99 Eve pts.

Blanc de Blancs

100% Chardonnay

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

A very pale yellow in color, then a nose of ripe red delicious apple, roasted nuts, lemon-lime and white pepper. On the mouth I got pineapple, white peach, white tea and roasted nuts again. 100 Eve pts.

Blanc De Noirs Assemblage Two

100% Pinot Noir

Multi-vintage: 2008, 2009 and 2010

Pale gold in color and aromas of apricots, cream and yes…what everyone noted: peppermint. On the palate that same peppermint was apparent as well as apricot and peach. Also another incredibly long finish. Welcome to the U.S. my pretty friend! 100 Eve pts. (How could I disagree with Fine Champagne Magazine, and TastingBook.com, that named this the best Blanc De Noirs of the year in 2016?)

Demi Sec

40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier

Multi-vintage: 2009, 2010 and 2012

Straw in color, and a nose of fruit cocktail, cheese corn and Jasmine! In the mouth I was reminded of candied apple and cinnamon toast, and the fruit lingers for another long finish. 98 Eve pts.

About Armand de Brignac

“10th and 11th generation champagne growers, Jean-Jacques Cattier and his son, Alexandre, craft the prestige cuvées of Armand de Brignac. Their dream was to create a champagne of the most exceptional quality, that would represent the best of the best from the region, where their family have grown vines for more than 250 years. A group of just 14 highly skilled people touch a bottle of Champagne Armand de Brignac, from pressing the fruit, to the moment the bottles leave the cellars. Each step of the process is led by the human touch, from handpicking the grapes to polishing each bottle and hand-applying French pewter labels. Without the pressures of volume, the team behind Champagne Armand de Brignac focuses on each small detail, to ensure ultimate quality at every step.”

http://armanddebrignac.com/home

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CASA DE UCO LAUNCHES SALES OF FULLY MANAGED VINEYARD PARCELS IN MENDOZA

March 25, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

The boutique vineyard and resort in one of the top wine capitals of the world now offers wine enthusiasts the opportunity to become winemakers in Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza, Argentina—Casa de Uco, a family-owned vineyard and boutique resort spanning 800-acres in the Uco Valley, launched sales of its organic, fully managed vineyard parcels for wine enthusiasts from all over the world to fulfil their dreams of growing, producing and indulging in their own wine. In what is known as one of the world’s most prosperous terroir for growing Malbec grapes, Casa de Uco offers the opportunity to work side by side with its team of experts without the steep upfront costs of building a winery.

home-1 At the vineyard estate, part of the unsung wine region of Uco Valley and typically referred to as Argentina’s Napa Valley of 30 years ago, inspiring vintners can purchase one or more of Casa de Uco’s 80 plots of land, from half an acre and up starting at $45,000.

Parcel owners have a flexible level of desired involvement and can choose to engage at any and/or every stage of the process, which involves selecting the type of soil, grape picking and crushing, ageing the wine in a customized oak barrel and creating tailored names and labels. Meanwhile, Casa de Uco’s team of world-class expert agronomists and enologists take care of the maintenance, harvest, fermentation process, bottling and labeling as well as logistics of exporting the final product. The expert team is led by world-renowned Alberto Antonini, head winemaker and consultant, well-known known for pioneering Argentine Malbec wines’ international recognition and appreciation.

“Based on my 16 years of experience winemaking in Uco Valley, I can say some of Mendoza’s best wines come from Uco Valley, which is celebrated for its exceptional terroir for organic, premium wine crafting,” said Alberto Antonini.

The experience grants vineyard owners the option to take the wine home, sell it for revenue and/or include their personalized wines in Casa de Uco’s restaurant wine list.

They also receive an annual vineyard planning consultation with Casa de Uco specialists, a complimentary resort membership, complimentary stays, discounted hotel and dining rates and access to the resort’s cultural and outdoor amenities and activities.

The property, tucked away in the foothills of the snow-capped Andes Mountains, receives 300 days of sun and is organically managed under near-perfect desert-like climate, which is ideal for grape growing. There are eight grape varieties vineyard owners can choose from, including four reds and four whites.

“Eight years ago, my father and I wanted to build private residences in what was then untouched land in the Uco Valley until we realized that, like for us, winemaking is a passion for many, so we created a setting where we could share the winemaking passion with wine lovers from all over the world without the hassles that managing a vineyard entail, “said Casa de Uco’s owner and founder, Juan Tonconogy.

The property also launched sales of its 10 virgin plots among the vineyard for owners to purchase their own two-to-three-bedroom residential villa. The sustainable, turnkey villas boast unparalleled seclusion and panoramic views of the mountains and surrounding vineyards with modern yet relaxed furnishings. The villas are designed by renowned architectural firm Alberto Tonconogy & Associates, owned and founded by Juan Tonconogy’s father.

The self-sufficient villas boast green rooftops, solar and photovoltaic panels, geothermal energy in floorings and walls for heating and air-conditioning, and self-contained water and heating systems. Each site is separated by natural flora that provides maximum intimacy and most importantly, preserves the biodiversity and natural environment of the estate.

Villa and vineyard owners can take advantage of an array of activities at the resort, including parcel wine paring tastings through the vineyards, vineyard bike and horseback rides, vinotherapy spa treatments, yoga, net fishing, water rafting, vineyard star gazing, cooking classes, blending sessions and vineyard and/or mountainside “asados”, which is an Argentine BBQ cooked over open flames.

Contact info:

http://www.casadeuco.com/

+54 261 476 9831

info@casadeuco.com

Appalachian High Country is Now an Official “Wine Country”

December 31, 2016 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Eight counties in the mountains of Appalachia now have their own official “wine country.”

A 2,400-square mile area in the Appalachian mountains, encompassing parts of Tennessee, Virginia and North Carolina, has been designated the “Appalachian High Country American Viticultural Area,” according to the U.S. Tax and Trade Bureau.

That means that the soils and climate are similar in these eight counties, producing a similar effect on the grapes grown there, according to Wayne Gay, owner of Watauga Lake Winery and Ville Nove Vineyards, in Butler, Tennessee.

“The AVA designation means that we are allowed to label the grapes we grow and the wines we make as being from the Appalachian High Country. The designation is important in the wine industry, where place matters so much,” Gay said.

Most Americans have heard of Sonoma County and Napa Valley, both AVAs.

“We are very pleased that the TTB has recognized the Appalachian High Country as a specific region for growing grapes,” said Gay.

“The destination is not only good news for people involved in viticulture, but also for the region’s tourism industry,” Gay said. “The potential for tourism is phenomenal as this could mean a great increase in people visiting our area, eating at our restaurants, staying in our lodging and taking advantage of all the natural beauty of our mountain and lake region.”

The eight counties in the AVA include Carter and Johnson Counties in Tennessee, Grayson County in Virginia, and Alleghany, Ashe, Avery, Mitchell and Watauga Counties in North Carolina.

There are currently 21 commercially producing vineyards on 71 acres and 10 wineries within the Appalachian High Country AVA. An additional eight vineyards are planned, which would occupy another 37 acres.

Gay and his wife, Linda Gay, have been growing grapes at Villa Nove Vineyards in Butler, TN, for 12 years. They produce approximately 75,000 lbs. of wine grapes. Five years ago, they opened Watauga Lake Winery in Butler, TN, Johnson County. They have been instrumental in establishing the AVA, which requires soil and climate tests, and a lengthy application process.

Watauga Lake Winery and Ville Nove Vineyards are part of Great Valley Wine Trail.

The American Viticultural Area (AVA) went into effect on Nov. 28, 2016.