Domaine Porto Carras: Greek Wines Tour SoCal and Surprise Eve

March 28, 2014 by evebushman

As the verdant slopes of Mt. Meliton stretch down to mingle with the crystal clear waters of Toroneo Bay, 475 hectares of the largest Greek vineyards lie in amphitheatre-like formation. The “Slopes of Mt. Meliton” vineyards are some of the largest in Europe and a model of organic viniculture…Domaine Porto Carras. The vineyards of Domaine Porto Carras are located on the western coast of the Sithonia peninsula in Halkidiki, Greece; the Macedonia wine region….Old World Vines.

I was looking forward to my Greek wine education over a tasting of 6 wines, lunch and an interview at Ulysses Voyage, with hosts Yliana Stengou, Owner/General Manager of Domaine Porto Carras; Stefanos Kavaliotis, Export Executive; and Michael Pavlidis, Old World Vines distributor in San Diego.

Greek Lessons
Our Greek hosts had a grand time ordering in Greek at Ulysses. (Of course, they could have just been talking about us…who would know?) We were to have octopus, shrimp, chicken and beef in delicate sauces laden with butter, garlic and lemon. So far, it looked like pairing food with Greek wine was not difficult.

I learned:

The vines were planted in 1965 and the first wines were produced in 1972.

Porto Carras is the largest organic winery in Greece.

University of Bordeaux Professor Emile Peynaud (Pavlidis referred to him as “the father of Bordeaux”) helped select which grapes to grow in the area as determined by the soil and climate.

A total of 27 varietals were planted: 13 French and 14 Greek.

They grow Limnio, the oldest recorded varietal; and Assyrtiko, the oldest recorded white varietal. (See my tasting notes below, I quickly became a fan of the Assyrtiko for its low acidity and balance.)

The hillside slopes require no irrigation.

All of the wines hover at about 12% alcohol.

Better Than Expected Tasting

MELISSANTHI
Type: White Dry Wine, Cotes de Meliton, Appellation d’Origine de Qualite Superieure.
Varietal Composition: Assyrtiko, Athiri.
Analysis: Light-yellow color, with a delicate bouquet of lemon, ripe apricot and melon. Full mouth with nice finish.
Alcohol by vol.: 12%,
To Accompany: Variety of seafood, fresh fish and yellow cheeses.

EVE’S TASTING NOTES: Aromas of grapefruit, lemon-lime, melon and kiwi, something floral, followed in the mouth with the same lemon-lime, some grassiness, nicely balanced and soft finish.

ASSYRTIKO

Type: White dry, P.G.I. Halkidiki.
Varietal Composition: 100% Assyrtiko.
Organoleptic Analysis: Intense citrus aroma, minerality, high acidity a characteristic of the Assyrtiko variety, refreshing aftertaste.

To Accompany: Fresh seafood, fish on the grill.

EVE’S TASTING NOTES: Lemon, pear, wet pebbles and jasmine on the nose followed by a nice mouth-coating viscosity, same fruit carried through, very clean with the acidity dropping off nicely at the finish. Nothing like the over-powering acidity found in some Sauvignon Blancs.

MALAGOUZIA

Type: Dry White P.G.I. Sithonia.
Varietal Composition: 100% Malagouzia.
Organoleptic Analysis: Greenish yellow color, blossom and exotic fruits with notes of mint. Rich and round mouth, with apricot and peach flavors.

To Accompany: Fresh fish, white meat, pasta.

EVE’S TASTING NOTES: Pronounced “Mal-a-go-zia” this grape was revived in the 70s and 80s according to our hosts. I got mango, white peach, sweet apples, honey and white pepper on the nose followed by flavors of an unoaked Chardonnay, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with the addition of mango, and again, that wonderful low acidity.

LIMNIO

Type: Red Dry, P.D.O. Meliton Slopes.
Varietal Composition: Limnio.
Organoleptic Analysis: Ruby red color with spicy aromas of pepper and cinnamon. Full and easy mouth, with flavor of ripe blackberry fruits, delicate tannins.

To Accompany: Mediterranean cuisine, red meats.

EVE’S TASTING NOTES: The color of a Pinot Noir but aromas of both a Pinot and Syrah with both red and black cherries, fig and cracked green pepper. When I tasted the wine I got the cherry notes as well as firm tannins, pepper and a wealth of spice. According to our hosts, Aristotle said Limnio was Plato’s favorite varietal.

MAGNUS BACCATA

Type: Red dry, P.G.I. Sithonia.
Varietal Composition: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Syrah.
Organoleptic Analysis: Deep purple color, intense aromas of fruits of the forest, sweet spices and chocolate with hints of delicate oak. Rich mouth, balanced tannins and rich aromatic aftertaste.

To Accompany: Red meats, matured cheeses with intense flavor.

EVE’S TASTING NOTES: The blend of Cab and Syrah “on Greek soil” made this a stand out for me. The nose gave off whiffs of rich and velvety blueberry and blackberry fruit, dark chocolate. Going in for a taste I loved the spiciness of the wine, and the dark fruit, pepper and how the Cab hung in for a very balanced finish.

CHATEAU PORTO CARRAS
Type: Red Dry Wine, Cotes de Meliton, Appellation d’Origine de Qualite SupCrieure.
Varietal Composition: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Limnio.
Analysis: Rich, deep blue, red color with purple reflections. Complex aromas with clear nose dominated by red fruits and vanilla. Delicate, smoky, with medium tannins. Excellent quality woods rich and long velvety finish. This wine has all the qualities
needed for long aging.
Alcohol by vol.: 13.5%.
To Accompany: Game, red meats and complicated sauces.

EVE’S TASTING NOTES: We had a 2005 vintage of this Bordeaux blend. They used the native Limnio grape over a Petit Verdot. Our hosts said that the wine does well in their microclimate as it has the same latitude as Bordeaux. I got dark fruit, black pepper, crushed blueberries, milk chocolate and a hint of caramel on the nose, followed by both light and dark fruit, incredibly balanced and easy to drink with or without food.

Information on these wines can be found here: http://www.portocarraswines.gr/en/wines.html

More on Greek wine here: http://www.allaboutgreekwine.com/wineries/porto_carras/

From Eve’s Wine 101 resident sommelier Gregory Alonzo

Assyrtiko is originally from Santorini, which may consider the island of Atlantis. It can be used for dry or sweet dessert wines. The grapes maintain their acidity and often used for blending purposes. It’s also used in Retsina wine.

Malgouzia is often blended with Assyrtiko. Makes a great dry white that pairs well with fruit, seafood, and white meat.

Melissanthi is often blended with Assyrtiko. Also makes a nice dry white. I am familiar with the one from Porto Carras. Pairs especially well with yellow cheeses. Of course, seafood as well.

Porto Carras also has a nice earthy Syrah and a very good Limnio Cabernet blend. Limnio is one of Greece’s most important red wines. It has a distinctive and great mineral aroma. Limnio is often used in blending and been around forever. Many people sell Greek reds short and think the only decent wines are the whites. It pairs particularly well with aged cheeses. It also pairs nicely with roasted dishes. In Greece, I often enjoyed this wine with game.

I think the secret to understanding and appreciating Greek wine is the Mediterranean diet. The wines pair perfectly with this style of cuisine.

Midas Man or Imposter?

March 20, 2014 by evebushman

Living in Europe, I am often inundated with questions concerning the California wine scene. After all, we do have the reputation of abounding with new and innovative ideas for wines. In fact, when my stateside friends come for a visit, they are expected to pay tribute to this self-proclaimed Caesar. My friends are quick to bestow unto to me lavish gifts of California wines, especially those up comers to watch. In all seriousness, we enjoy catching up and discussing California’s current wine trends. Not to mention that my guest room is always open to my friends and colleagues alike. We Spaniards have a saying, “Mi casa, es su casa,” My home is your home.

Today, I want to spotlight the wines of one of my favorite California winemakers, Jeff Cohn. I am joined by special friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. We are also joined by fellow Californian, and wine enthusiast, Randy Morris. Randy is on holiday in Central Europe and I am indebted to him for sharing these lovely wines.

Headquartered in Oakland, California, Jeff Cohen is the proud owner of JC Cellars. If you are familiar with the 2003 Rockpile Road Zinfandel, then you already know why I hold Jeff’s Wines in such high-esteem. When Jeff was with Rosenblum Cellars, he was catapulted to repute with the success of this Zin. That year, Wine Spectator ranked Jeff’s Rockpile Road Zinfandel as 3rd on its Top 100 List for 2003. This was also a mark of distinction for California Zinfandel as no Zin had ever broken into the top ten. Then in January of 2006, Jeff made a move on his own with the launching of JC Cellars. Since then he has been focused solely on crafting some very special and distinctive wines.

What is Jeff formula for success? He searches relentlessly from California’s Santa Barbara region to Mendocino for only the finest fruit and the best vineyards. Jeff also goes to great lengths to combine crème de la crème of California with the age-old French notion of terroir and minerality.

Sonoma’s rugged Rockpile soil is characteristic of producing some of the most complex and profound minerality in all of California. The 2011 Buffalo Hill Syrah is emblematic of the craggy soil in which it thrives. In the glass, it is a deep purple/black highlighted by hues of red. From sight alone, one feels compelled and is drawn to this dark and mysterious wine. On the nose, there is a burst of aroma. The bouquet is abundant in blueberry, blackberry, black pepper, and spice. On the palate, it is dense, rich, and full-bodied with silky tannins. The wine shows good structure, and exceptional minerality that balances nicely with good fruit. The finish is smooth and lingers. The alcohol content is 15% with a bottle price of $30.

“A powerful, explosive, and rich wine,” Randy clearly expressed his zeal. “I am surprised that I am not overwhelmed by the high alcohol content.”

“Very good minerality,” I replied as I took another sip. “This is a wine to be leisurely enjoyed.”

“I am often pleasantly surprised with the caliber of California wines,” Elena smiled delightfully. “I would pair this Syrah with a rib-eye steak, a rack of lamb, and even venison.”

Up next, 2011 El Diablo Vineyard The Fallen Angel. Fruit from the Russian River Valley’s El Dorado Vineyard produces some of Sonoma County’s finest wines. While Grenache is often blended, The Fallen Angel stands alone. This seductive wine is 100% Grenache. In the glass, its deep dark red color is pleasing and inviting. On the nose, the bouquet is alive with aromas of lavender and pepper. There is also a whisper of cherry similar to that found in kirsch. On the palate, the wine is ever so smooth on the tongue, displaying good blueberry fruit as it trails into softer fruit flavors. The finish is strong and juicy yet maintaining its complexity. Grenache has yet find its rightful place in California’s hierarchy of wines, the Fallen Angel is a sure bet to lead the way. The alcohol content is 15.3% with a bottle price of $45.

“I was surprised by how smooth and easy this wine is to drink,” Randy was first to comment.

“Wines produced from El Dorado Vineyard, grapes most always produce good wines,” I paused for effect. “Jeff Cohen has demonstrated time and again that he knows how to create wines of distinction.”

“He certainly hides the alcohol level well,” Elena’s eyes sparkled as she smiled. “Due to the wines spiciness and pure red fruit, it will pair nicely with hearty dishes like cassoulet or less spicy Asian dishes.”

Our next two selections are particular favorites. In 2010 I was first introduced to Jeff Cohn and two of his wines, “Smoke & Mirrors” and “The Imposter,” by friend and Los Angeles wine buyer, Robert Tapia. I was immediately captivated by the distinctiveness of the wines and Jeff’s prowess as a winemaker.

Let’s take a look at a 2012 Smoke and Mirrors. This is an intriguing blend of Zinfandel, Syrah Petite Sirah, and Alicante that delivers. Initially, I had my doubts, but once again, Jeff’s mastery prevailed. In the glass, the wine is dark garnet almost maroon in color. The nose is fresh with the bouquet filling with aromas of cherry, spice, bright earth, with only a whisper of oak coming through. There’s not a lot of wood because the Zinfandel was fermented in cement. On the palate, the wine is a complex array of pure fruit. While flavors of wild raspberry and blackberry dominate, there are notes of pepper followed by hints of cream and cocoa. The finish is medium and pleasurable. Over all, a very easy wine to drink. We did decant Smoke and Mirrors for just under an hour. The alcohol content is 14.8% with a bottle price of $25.

“An excellent blend that surprised me,” Randy chuckled with amusement.

“I must admit that initially I had my doubt’s,” I also broke into laughter.

“This is more of a party or cocktail wine,” Elena spoke softly as she considered the wine. “I would serve it only with a wine and cheese platter.”

Our last selection, 2010 The Imposter, is a blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Viognier. In the glass, the wine appears as an opaque black purple. The nose is a wonderful array of aromas. Dominated by blackberry and raspberry, there are hints of black cherry, licorice, vanilla, dark chocolate, and a gentle whisper of herbs and roasted coffee. On the palate, The Imposter is full bodied and concentrated. There is good blackberry and raspberry fruit followed by alluring array of flavors of Asian spices, smoke, and cedar. The finish is distinctive with a big vanilla finish. There a lots of tannins so we decanted the wine for a good hour. The alcohol content is 14.8% with a bottle price of $35.

“What a nice balancing act!” Randy’s tone was one of assurance.

“When I was first introduced to this wine, my initial reaction was oh, hell no,” I chuckled softly. “After the first taste, my only thought was, hell yes!”

“Another festive wine,” Elena nodded approvingly. “It is big and rich, not syrupy and no raisiny notes.”

I am not the biggest advocate of high alcohol wines, however, Jeff Cohn seems to have found that balance. The Midas Man’s wines are a pleasure to serve with any meal or to simply sit back and enjoy.

Now if I only had a bottle of the 2003 Rockpile Zinfandel … “But that my friends, is a different story.”

Zinfandel Questions and Answers, Part One

March 8, 2014 by evebushman

I woke up one morning to a message from friend and fellow Eve’s Wine 101 contributor Gregory Alonzo:

“Hi Michael … Recently I have had several emails from European acquaintances who want to know more about our Zinfandel, especially those of higher alcohol content. As you probably know, California Zin is tough to find in Europe and we usually go with a Primitivo. Anyway, perhaps another article down the road about why you prefer high alcohol Zin should be interesting and fun.”

This gave me some food for thought. Truthfully, and this may surprise some people who I drink wine with regularly, I am not particularly partial to high alcohol. In fact, I often wish alcohol content on certain wines could be lower so I could drink more of them. All I really care about is that the wine is balanced and tastes good. It is just my layperson’s understanding that in order to get the proper flavors from Zinfandel, extended hang time on the vine is needed and this later harvesting ultimately results in higher alcohol.

Tobin James, Claire Silver and Lance Silver of Tobin James Cellars

But I knew there had to be more to it than just that, so I turned to some of my favorite Zinfandel producers.

Paso Robles is known for its great Zinfandel, among other varietals, and one of the pioneers of the full fruit-forward style of Zin that would become known as the “Paso style” is Tobin James Cellars (www.tobinjames.com). With all of the new up and coming wineries in Paso, I think the Tobin James Zinfandels hold their own with the best of them, especially wines like Fat Boy, French Camp and Blue Moon Reserve. I asked Claire Silver, co-owner of Tobin James, for her thoughts on this subject, and she replied:

“In Paso Robles it is common that the alcohol levels in zins exceed 15%, since the fruit hangs longer to fully develop. Our wines are balanced so that you don’t experience the heat on your palate, just layers of lush fruit and a fat, juicy mouthfeel.

We agree with you that it does not matter what the alcohol is as long as it is harmonious.”

Well, that provided validation of my thinking, but I wanted more.

The Dante Dusi vineyard in Paso Robles is pretty much synonymous with Zinfandel. For decades, the Dusi family has grown and sold these prized grapes to other wineries looking for that Dusi quality and distinctive taste. Fairly recently, Dante’s granddaughter Janell started producing excellent wine under her own J Dusi label (www.jdusiwines.com). Here’s what she had to say:

“The trend of Zinfandel is headed to more lean, lower alcohol and less jam. By harvesting at a lower sugar, you still can get the fruit and spice that is notable in Zin, but it’s rather a brighter fruit and not jammy. Zinfandel is the most uneven ripening varietal, which makes it the most difficult to deal with. So, I think it’s all about picking early and the grapes will still “soak up” in their sugar level as they sit together before fermentation begins. This does happen better with a long steadily warm Summer!”

We couldn’t really talk about Paso Robles Zinfandel without getting some input from Turley Wine Cellars (www.turleywinecellars.com). While they are headquartered in Napa Valley, they are certainly making a lot of noise in Paso Robles, producing world class wines at their facility in Templeton. Next week, I’ll let you know what Karl Wicka, winemaker at the Turley winery in Templeton, had to say.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. (2013 Update: Eve and Michael announced Eve Wine 101 Consulting. Info is here: http://evewine101.com/press-releases/) Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com.

Vintage Beacon, Circa 3/09: Chile comes to Santa Clarita

March 4, 2014 by evebushman

Inhale for a minute. Now do it again, but this time imagine that you have traveled to Chile and an expert chef has made you a 5-course meal with no less than shrimp empanadas, corn and coconut soup, basil-scented mashed corn tamale, sea bass, pheasant breast stuffed with Porcini mushrooms, chorizo laced risotto in a Pinot Noir reduction, marinated steak in Chilean salsa, potato and onion timbale…but wait, we have to go back…I forgot to mention that this chef has also paired regional wines for each dish.

There is no possible way that you can inhale all that the first of quarterly wine pairing dinners of 2009, hosted by Salt Creek Grille and catered by the new off-the-menu catering stylist, Tamra Levine, has to offer.

Fresh from serving up tiramisu parfaits to pesto bread for our City Council, Vine 2 Wine, COC Culinary School or the early risers in the VIP tent of the Amgen tour, Tamra has been busy concocting much more than anything found on your typical catering menu and Salt Creek Grille Catering.

When I came to her Heritage Lane home I was greeted by the aromas of her fresh spices growing outside of her front door and, once inside, by indescribable commingling scents that warmed my nose and made my mind wander.

“This is something I’m working on, although you can’t have it with the wine my husband is pouring right now,” Tamra began while Jeff Levine, (of T.G.I.C. importers that provide the best portfolio of South American wines) attempted to withhold the Santa Ema Catalina Cabernet Sauvignon 2005.

“This is a warm garlic flan better paired with just water.” The small glass bowl with my sample was quickly dispatched, down my hatch, while the flavors of buttery roasted garlic, bay leaf, rosemary, thyme and cream lingered in my mouth.

I had to remind myself this singular spoonful was a teaser…I was not eating the meal I came to hear about.

“Chilean food is really unique. We don’t have a restaurant that I know of serving their dishes in Santa Clarita, so we have an opportunity to really educate our palates. I had to write to South America, just to get their spices, as they are that different – even for a chef.”

“The wines are wonderful there too, from Argentine Malbec to Bordeaux. In this dinner alone we will have a Santa Ema Chardonnay, Montes Alfa Pinot Noir, the Santa Ema Catalina we have now and a Montes late harvest Gewurztraminer.”

Asking what else we might find at the restaurant, Tamra lead me through a few more tasty tidbits.

New at Salt Creek Grille

“Owner Greg Amsler has a new catering menu that asks clients to use their imagination. We like to say that ‘Our boundaries are your dreams and wishes’. He is also debuting a new dining menu and, besides the regular wine list, there is ‘Greg’s List’”.

Greg’s list, that you may have to ask for from the wait staff, features only 10 wines. But each one is outstandingly rated.

Where in the past you may have been limited by a strict menu, venue or budget this isn’t the case for the new catering department at Salt Creek Grille. Having a classically trained culinary arts chef at the helm of their new catering department gives you choices heretofore not available from a neighborhood caterer.

Chef Tamra Levine

Still the only caterer in town that can expertly pair wine and food, Tamra Levine, can arrange all the rentals from floral, to tents, to service.

Her additional wine education isn’t for cellar management or to be utilized as a restaurant sommelier, instead Tamra uses her expertise to teach and train others. She not only works with the culinary arts students at College of the Canyons, but helps consult for the Salt Creek Grille’s wine list.

And, best of all, Tamra takes suggestions. What cuisine sounds interesting to you she has already mastered or is anxious to learn.

Chile is only the first country to visit in the plans for a robust, festive and spicy 2009.

Classic Bordeaux That Won’t Break the Bank

January 30, 2014 by evebushman

A wise man once said that before one can understand anything properly, one has to learn how to love it. For me, this holds true with both wine and women. It seems that the bulk of my time is spent with the pleasurable task of trying to understand the qualities and complexities of wine and women. Perhaps that is how I found myself hosting a Friday evening wine class with six charming Ukrainian women.

For this evening’s tasting we will be covering some classic French Bordeaux. What makes the wines I have selected so special? Not just because they are wines of quality and distinction, the wines we will be tasting won’t break your bank.

Many of the notable red wines produced in Bordeaux are actually blends of different grape varieties. Why blend? Many wine makers are attempting to produce wines that are more rich in flavor and enhance the wine’s overall profile. The goal of most vintners is to produce noble wines that are distinctive of the region. For the French, wine making is all about terroir (the unique characteristics of the local geography). The three grape varietals that are most widely planted in Bordeaux are, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

Cabernet Sauvignon is the vintner’s dream. In many aspects, this varietal can reflect the desires and personality of the winemaker, while maintaining familiar flavors that are expressive of the variety. Since Cabernet Sauvignon takes a bit longer to reach maturation, allowing their flavors to mellow, it is ideal for blending with other grapes. When blended with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon softens, and adds appealing fruit tones without sacrificing its innate character. Cabernet Franc adds to the seductive allure of a Bordeaux Blend by enhancing the bouquet. The resulting wine is more aromatic and fragrant. Wines that are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon are primarily produced in the sub-regions Graves, Medoc, Saint Estephe, Paulliac, Margaux, Saint Julien, and Sauternes. These areas lie on the left side of the Gironde River, hence the term “Left Bank.”

Wines produced in the appellations of Saint-Emilion, Fronsac, and Pomerol are renown “Right Bank” wines. They contain very little Cabernet Sauvignon, and make avail of Cabernet Franc. These wines tend to have greater fruit concentration and softer tannins. It is also somewhat popular to blend with varying amounts of Petit Verdot.

Our first selection, Chateau Grand Pulay Ducasse Paulliac 2010 is 60% Cabernet Sauvigion and 40% Merlot. In the glass, it is a deep purple in color. On the nose, the aromas are of intense fruit, with subtle hints of of licorice and spices. On the palate, the texture is subtle with loads of cassis fruit. This is a succulent wine that is both seductive and elegant. It can be enjoyed now or cellared for another 15 plus years. Definitely a must buy at only $55.

“Mmm,” Iryna’s face filled with a smile. “I loved the oodles of cassis.”

” I also found notes of white chocolate,” Nadiya was quick to add.

Lena quietly swirled her glass then drew a deep breath. “I also found hints of mocha.”

“This is a stylish and finely structured wine.” Zhenya said with calm finality.

Our next selection, La Grave Pomerol 2009 is a most inviting wine. In the glass, it is a deep ruby purple.
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On the nose, the bouquet is a compeling array of aromas. It is filled with red cherry, raspberry, minerals, spice, and cake. On the palate, this full-bodied wine is opulent with velvety tannins and juicy fruit. The finish is long and well textured. Ready to drink now, the bottle price of only $65 makes it feasible to stock your cellar.

“I love the depth of color,” Iryna paused to collect her thoughts. “At first sight, I felt that something special was about to happen.”

“The bouquet was inviting,” Zhenya smiled softly. “It is generously filled with ripe fruit.”

“I also found the subtle scent of sweet tobacco.” Nadiya was quick to add.

“Simply a delicious wine,” Galya said flatly. “I especially liked the flavors of fig and fresh baked cake.”

“That’s it,” Ilona chuckled softly. “The fresh baked cake was calling to me.”

“A delicious wine indeed,” Lena nodded approvingly.

Up next, a Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot Saint-Emillion Premier Grand Cru Classes 2006. The Becot family is dedicated to quality and this wine is representative of their efforts. It is a blend of 70% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. In the glass, it is deep purple, striated by purple hues. The nose is filled with sweet fruit aromas of black currant and black cherry. There are also pleasing hints of graphite and charcoal. On the palate, it is full-bodied, with generous amounts of fruit. This nicely concentrated wine finishes long, and filled with ripe fruit. Once again, the Becot family has produced a wine that is indicative of Saint-Emilion. The bottle price is $65 and the ready is ready to drink now and up to 2025.

“I love the wine’s deep ruby color.” Galya was first to speak.

“I especially liked hints of graphite and charcoal.” Ilona said softly as she savored her wine.

“Agreed,” Nadiya gave a quick nod. “There is a nice smokiness.”

“This is a well-structured wine with god tannins,” Lena remarked.

Iryna nodded in agreement. “Definitely opens up beyond its youthfulness.”

“This is why I like French wines,” Zhenya sighed happily.

Our last selection, Château Rauzan-Segla Grand Cru Classe Margaux 2004, is the most expensive of the wine we selected, but well worth the price. In the glass the wine is ruby red and welcoming. The bouquet is laced with the soft aromas of blackberry and vanilla. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine showed polished tannins giving an overall silky mouthfeel. The flavors of black currant enticed into a delightful and memorable finish. Ready to drink now, the half-bottle price is afordable at $65.

“Good wood balance.” Iryna was the first to comment.

“I liked the wine’s lightness.” Ilona saluted with her glass.

“Very pleasant to drink.” Lena added with a soft smile.

“Good fruit.” both Galya and Nadiya chimed in harmony.

“A very polished wine that should be added to every cellar.” Zhenya concluded matter-of-factly.

Bordeaux, just the name conjures up all sorts of extraordinary wine expectations. In the future we will continue to explore the priceless wines from the Gironda sub-region.

“But that my friends, is another story … “

Gigondas: The Roman Wine of Great Pleasure

September 26, 2013 by evebushman

Growing up in the suburbs of Los Angeles, my first experience with wine was in the Rancho Cucamonga Valley. This region is proud of their award-winning wines. Excelling in finely crafted Zinandel and Spainsh Sherry, such wineries as Galleano and J. Filippi became my frequent haunts. Growing up, I often enjoyed just a bit of Sherry with my mother. However, it was the Rhone varietals that particularly influenced my palate.

During my “college days,” my interest in Rhone varietals took me to California’s Santa Ynez Valley. The wines of Santa Barbara County so influenced my palate, I knew I would eventually make a career in the wine and spirits industry. This eventually led me to France, and of course, the Rhone Valley.

Today, I am once again joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Ivelisse Negroni. We are in the Dentelles de Montmirail foothills of southern France in the village of Gigondas. We are here to taste wines known to many as “the poor man’s Chateauneuf du Pape.” This is a red wine region and no white wines carry the Gigondas appellation.

Historically, the region was one of great importance and a recreational haven for Rome’s Second Legion. In Latin, “Jacunditas” translates as “great pleasure and enjoyment.” Seeing as the Gigondas appellation produces wines that are muscular and robust, they are a perfect match for the legionaries of the empire. These soulful wines are definitely rustic, edgy, and in your face. In short, Gigondas produces good, spicy, dry wines that can be cellared for 10 years or more.

For our first selection, Ivelisse chose a Guigal Gigondas Rouge 2009. On the eye, the wine is purple in color and striated with tinges of bright ruby. The intense nose is floral and dominated by peach, apricot, spice, and accented with licorice notes. This powerful and full-bodied wine is a blend of 70% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, and 5% Syrah. It is an earthy wine filled with minerals and spices, and packed with fruit flavors of blueberries and blackberries. Low in acidity, the Rouge has a lively and expanding finish. The alcohol content is 124% with a price tag of $35.

“I like that the Rouge has an attractive lushness along with fine density,” Ivelisse smiled softly.

“Indeed a suave wine that beckons to be drunk now,” I affirmed with calm finality.

Our next selection, Tardieu-Laurent Gigondas Viles Vignes 2010 exemplifies the Dantelles terroir. It is a blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre. On the eye, it is opaque ruby. The nose is aromatically fresh and combines beautifully with concentrated dark fruit which eventually gives way to braised fig. On the palate, the wine is muscular, yet polished and caressing. Though fruit flavors abound, there are accents of spice and minerals with fine tannins. The finish is lively and persistent. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a price tag of $45.

“I particularly liked the nose on the Tardieu-Laurent,” Ivelisse gave a nod of approval.

“A spicy and well-delineated charmer that can be enjoyed over the next 10-15 years,” I added.

For our next selection, Ivelisse chose Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas Le Dieu Dit 2010. The wine is a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah an aged up to 5 years in small oak casks. On the eye, it is a vivid purple. While on the nose, it invigorates from the beginning. There are aromas of red currant, plum, raspberry, lavender, and incense. On the palate, the flavors are fleshy and vivacious. Filled with raspberry, cherry, and a trace of licorice, the wine is full-bodied and intense. The finish has excellent length with appealing sweetness and only a whisper of tannins. The alcohol content is 15% with a price tag of $50.

“The complex bouquet had me from the start,” Ivelisse giggled softly.

“This is one of the finest wines I’ve had since we have been traipsing about Dantelles de Montmirail,” I flashed her a quick grin along with a nod of approval.

Our last selection, Saint Cosme Gigondas Le Claux 2011 is a classic Gigondas. It is 100% Grenache grown in the limestone soils of Le Claux and display the most minerality of the four wines in our tasting. The grapes of Le Claux are true sun-worshippers and love the hot, dry weather. On the eye, the wine is saturated ruby. The bouquet is especially perfumed with a striking floral elegance. There are complex aromas of dark berries, and Asian spices.
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This charming wine shows Pinot-Noir-like vivacity with flavors of raspberry and boysenberry that are sharpened by juicy acidity. To add to the wine’s allure, fine-grained tannins fill the long floral finish. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a price tag of $90.

“Since you love Pinot Noir,” Ivelisse paused lightly. “I knew you would especially enjoy the Saint Cosme.”

“I definitely enjoyed this wine,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “The bouquet was exotic, displaying peaty qualities that I found enticing. Indeed a wine that will drink well over the years.”

“As for pairing Gigondas, it is an excellent wine to serve with cheeses such as St. Marcellin, Roquefort, and Espoisses,” Ivelisse was quick to add.

“With what dishes would you serve these wines?” I queried.

“Beef Stroganoff, spare ribs, and most game.”

“Agreed,” I flashed her an even smile.

“We need a hearty lunch because our next stop, Chateauneuf du Papa is better than 10 miles away,” she said flatly.

“Surely you are not planning for us to hike that distance,” I playfully toyed. “But that my friends, is another story …”

Gregory Alonzo on: Unique Swiss Wines

May 9, 2013 by evebushman

The tradition of wine and viticulture is very old in Switzerland. Dating back to the Roman era, highly prized wines were being produced throughout the country. On a recent archaeological dig, a Celtic tomb dating back to the 2nd century BC was unearthed in Valais. The tomb belonged to woman and among her contents was a ceramic bottle, labeling wine as its contents. In the Celtic era, it was quite common to offer wine to the dead. In the century that followed, Roman style amphorae wines began being produced throughout the region.

I have been traveling throughout the Swiss Canton of Valais with friend and fellow sommelier, Celine Huber. Valais is a lovely area in the upper Rhone Valley which bestrides the borders of both Italy and France. Our destination is the city of Sion to enjoy some of Switzerland’s unique wines, and a particular favorite of both Celine and I, Vin des glaciers.
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Chasselas is the dominant grape variety in Valais. Chasselas typically produces elegant concentrated white wines that are full-bodied, dry, and fruity. With the ability to age well, vintage wines tend to show more honeyed and nutty flavors which gradually take on a golden hue that is characteristic older wines. Ever popular with the local population, Chasselas is the most important, and widely planted grape variety in Switzerland.

Our first selection, Robert Gilliard les Murettes Fendant 2007 is the benchmark for this ancient Valraisan variety, while the name of Robert Gilliard is steeped in tradition. On the eye, our Fendant Les Murettes is a pale straw yellow. On the nose, it is floral and citrusy, with notes of lime and fresh fruits. On the palate, their is a wonderful mineral character that is crisp and intense. The finish was also clean and crisp. This Chasselas has an alcohol content of 11,8% and a price tag of $28. We enjoyed our wine with an assorted cheese platter.

“I would also serve Chasselas primarily with fish,” Celine paused to collect her thoughts. “If memory serves correctly, the last time you were here, we enjoyed Chasselas with sushi.”

“Indeed we did,” a broad smile filled my face. Over all, this wine is at its best when served with appetizers.”

Amigne is a white grape variety grown predominantly in the Valais region for the past two thousand years. Amigne produces wines that are typically full-bodied and with great aromatic complexity, while scents of citrus and stone fruits prevail. Wines grown in the village of Vetroz are labeled Grand Cru de Vetroz. These select wines use a technique of drying the grapes before pressing. This adds to the concentration of flavors and a sweeter wine. Rest assured that the delicate aroma of citrus is not at all lost with this technique. In fact, in the drier styles of Grand Cru de Vetroz, citrus fragrances abound.

With most Amigne wines there is also the delightful taste of almond on the palate. These wines typically age well and are often drunk between the ages of 5-10 years.

Our next selection , Serge Roh Les Ruinettes Amigne de Vetroz Grand Cru 2006 proved to be wonderfully silky, honeyed with good acidity. This semi-sweet wine is full-bodied. It is a pale yellow on the eye. The nose is quite floral with an array herbs and citrus fruits. On the palate the initial contact is rich in flavor and strongly accented with a generous dose of minerality and finishing lightly with a slight flavor of almonds. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a price tag of $40.

“I also liked the slight buttery notes to this Amigne,” Celine nodded her approval.

“This is a nice wine for a pick me up on that warm summer day,” I flashed her a quick grin. “Fruit and nuts would also pair nicely.”

“Precisely,” Celine smiled softly. “I often enjoy Amigne with fruits and or nuts, and of course, select cheeses.”

Cornalin du Valais, which is indigenous to Switzerland, is an interesting grape and much more complicated than one would think. According to UC Davis researchers who conducted DNA profiling, established that Cornalin du Valais is actually an offspring of Petite Rouge and Mayolet. Yet it still gets more complicated as these grapes are not native to Switzerland. They are believed to be native to the Valle d’Aosta region of Italy. UC Davis also concludes that Cornalin d’Astote is in fact an offspring of Rouge du Pays, another name for Swiss Cornalin du Valais.

“Gregory, I think you have definitely confused our readers,” Celine playfully teased. “Let’s drink some wine.”

Our next selection, Cornalin Du Valais 2011 hails from the steep slopes of the Alpine Valley. On the eye, our wine is an intriguing dark cherry red with purple hues. The bouquet is filled with rich aromas of sour cherry, red berries, subtle spices and lightly fragrant violets. The wine is full-bodied with hints of spicy clove and fresh berry on the palate. Cornalin Du Valais has a fine tannin structure and a complexity both Celine and I enjoyed. The alcohol content is 13.3% and a price tag of $23.

“I liked this wine,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “However, it could do with a bit more aging.”

“What is your window?” Celine queried.

“Five years, no more than six,” I said with assurance. “This wine will only get better with the proper aging.”

“As for pairing Cornalin,” Celine paused on the moment. “Veal, calf’s liver, rabbit, venison, and spicy cheeses would all go nicely.”

Over the years, the Swiss have developed a number of unique specialty wines from grapes rarely found outside of Switzerland. An absolute must with both Celine and I is Vin des Glaciers. This is a sherry style of wine made from a blend Reze white grapes, Ermitage (Marsanne), and Petit Arvine. The local people of Valais utilize a solera system of wine storage. Oak barrels are often used however, it is more common to find the wines stored in larch wood. This is the same wood that is popular in the building of Swiss homes. To add to the wine’s allure, it is seldom bottled, but rather drunk directly from the cask and often in tankards. Today we will be visiting local vintner Jean Vouradoux for a private tasting.

“But that my friends, is another story …”

Gregory Alonzo on German Red Wines?

April 25, 2013 by evebushman

Red wines from Germany? Isn’t it too cool there, even for Pinot Noir? Not at all. In fact German red wines and not only thriving, they are becoming very popular throughout the world. Back in the 1980’s, red grapes accounted for only 12 per cent of Germany’s vineyards. Today, that number exceeds 36 per cent. The most notable of Germany’s red wines include, Trollinger, Blaufrankicsh, and Pinot Noir.

Today I am joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Liesel Braun. We are exploring the world of German red wines. Though beer is Germany’s national beverage, wine has definitely made its mark on the country’s social structure. Reds are not only gaining with the Germans, but the international market as well.

In Stuttgart, visit any wine bar or biergarten and you’ll be surprised to see Germans quaffing down bottles of a local wine known as Trollinger (traw-ling-ger). This grape grows primarily in the Wurttemberg region and the Swabians love it. What is most interesting about the appearance of Trollinger, it looks more like cherry kool-aid rather than a rare and unique wine. In Italy this grape is known as Schiava and in Austria, Vernatsch. However, neither country shares Germany’s enthusiasm for the grape.
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Truth be known, Wurttembergers drink it like water. It has also been documented to have been a particular favorite of Martin Luther.

Trollinger first came to Germany during Roman times. It is believed that its name is derived from “Tirol-linger” because it originated in Tirol, Italy. It is a late harvest wine and does not ripen until October. Served cold, Trollinger resembles a strong rose. It is a fresh and fruity wine with an odd, almost medicinal finish.

Our first selection was a Wuerttemberger Trollinger 2007. On the eye, it is a lovely dark rose color. The bouquet is fragrant with a light fruitiness. On the palate it is a light and lively wine with plenty acidity, it was a bit sweeter and with more residual sugar than I had expected. I found the finish on our Wuerttemberger Trollinger on the odd side and somewhat lacking. The alcohol content was 12.5% and a price tag of $22.

“Though this wine is well made, it is just not my palate,” Liesel paused to collect her thoughts. “As for pairing this wine, I would serve it with most anything that goes along with a rose.”

“Every festival I have attended in the Stuttgart region, where beer is the order of the day, Trollinger is seemingly being enjoyed by many,” My tone was one of amusement.

“I must admit that I do not share their enthusiasm,” Liesel shook her head in disdain. “Trollinger is not very tasty, and its popularity bewilders me. In fact, I think it should be blended. I am sure that the result would be a much better wine.”

Blauer Limberger, also known as Blaufrankisch or Lemberger, thrives along the lower stretches of the Danube River. Typically the wines are extremely dark in color. Being a late-ripening variety, it is rich in tannin with a spicy pronounced character. On the nose there are aromas of dark ripe cherries and dark berries. On the palate, it is often silky with spice flavors, boysenberry, and blackberry. Young wines are deeply fruity and become more velvety and complex with age. The finish is long and fruit accented. Lemberger wine can best be categorized as between pinot noir and syrah. Germans are quick to repute that Lemberger was quite popular with both Napoleon Bonaparte and Otto von Bismarck.

Our next selection was a Grafen Neipperg 2008 Lemberger. This is a ruby red wine. It is charming in character, showing bright red fruit aromas of cherry and blackberries. On the palate, there is a good concentration of red berry fruit and well-balanced tannins. The finish proved to be long and fruity. The alcohol content is 13% and a price tag of $23. On a historical note, the counts of Neipperg have cultivated vines for over 700 years in the wine-growing region of Wurttemberg. Hereditary count, Karl Eugen, has been responsible for the wine estate since 1984.

“I like this wine very much,” Liesel’s eyes crinkled softly as she began to smile. “I am also positive that with a bit of aging, Lemberger meets with your palate.”

“It does indeed. I very much like our Grafen Neipperg,” I gave her a quick wink. Perhaps we should call on the count and share our praise.”

“Prost!” We both erupted euphorically.

“This is definitely a food wine. I would serve it with blue or goat cheese. Pasta and red sauces would also go nicely. “Liesel, with what foods would you pair this Lemberger?” I queried.

“Roasted lamb or wild game,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “I think a nice roasted hare would go over nicely.”

Our next wine comes as a bit of a surprise. In Germany, Spatburgunder is to red wine, what Riesling is to white wine, the creme de la creme. This grape varietal is sensitive to climate and soil. It also needs warmth to thrive and ripens late. Sound familiar? If you recognized that Spatburgunder is the German equivalent to Pinot Noir, welcome to the head of the class.

Spatburgunder was brought to Germany from Burgundy as early as the 4th century. However, Spatburgunder differs from Pinot Noir. The intended result of Pinot Noir is to produce an elegant, velvety wine, with a distinctive bouquet of bitter almonds or blackberries. German Spratburgunder, in contrast, is lighter in color, body, and tannic acidity than its counterparts from warmer climates. Yet these wines have lost none of the character and appeal that is indicative of Pinot Noir. What German winemakers have essentially done is to take their understanding of cool climate viticulture, and produce some wines that rival even the most long established producers of Pinot Noir.

Our last selection was a Karl H. Johner Pinot Noir Enselberg 2008. On the eye, it is a pale cherry red color. The nose is filled with a concentration of cherry fruit, and notes of herbs and spices. Overall the bouquet is fragrant, and perfumed. On the palate, our Johner Pinot Noir is medium-bodied, taut, with black cherry undertones. There is also a piquant and spicy edge. Though “Old World” in style, there is just enough sweet fruit to satisfy one’s palate. The finish is silky, fluent, and pure.The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $35.

“I especially like the soft texture to this Pinot Noir,” Liesel eagerly shared her delight. “I would pair it with lighter style roasted game birds.”

“I found the bouquet a bit too perfumed,” I flashed Liesel a reassuring smile. “Overall, I was quite impressed and particularly liked the pepperiness of German style Pinot Noir.”

“Now our readers know that there is certainly more to German red wines other than Dornfelder,” Liesel chuckled softly.

“But that my friends is another story …”

Gregory Alonso on: Rye Renaissance

March 21, 2013 by evebushman

Our founding father’s certainly appreciated quality liquor. Most did not follow the colonial custom of drinking rum. Benjamin Franklin brewed beer. Thomas Jefferson was also a brewer and set up large vineyards at Monticello. George Washington had his own recipe for porter, a dark brown bitter beer brewed from malt that has been partly charred. In 1797, our first president set up a whiskey and brandy distillery at Mount Vernon. In fact, the Mount Vernon Distillery actually became one of the largest in our fledgling republic.

Just what was the whiskey of choice of the father of our country? Rye. Rye you ask? The same drink that we see in Western films where the Duke himself comes barreling into a saloon, throws a dollar on the bar top and says, “Give me a shot of rye.”

There is a Rye Renaissance in the world of spirits. Quality distillers are experimenting with America’s favorite whiskey prior to Prohibition. The resulting spirits have been taking the market by storm. In fact, November of 2012, George Washington’s Mount Vernon Distillery reopened and has been selling a version of the rye whiskey that was once made by George Washington.

What is so special about rye? This grain is often used in the distilling of whiskey and vodka to add flavor and complexity.

Today, I am joined in my flat by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. Today we will be tasting some very select American Rye Whiskies.

“Grisha,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “I know you appreciate fine bourbon, brandy and vodka, what prompted you to start experimenting with rye?”

“I must admit that I was not one of the innovators with the re-birth of rye,” I laughed under mu breath. “I was quick to jump on the band wagon. Now, let’s just say I am a promulgator.”

“What attracted you to this spirit? Elena asked softly.

“I especially like rye vodka. My favorite rye vodka is Starka.” I paused for emphasis. “Not only is Starka aged in oak barrels ten to fifty years, and buried underground …”

“Grisha,” Elena broke in. “Since Starka is barrel aged, why is it not considered whiskey?

“I guess that is a future topic,” I nodded playfully. “Actually, in Canada, Starka would be considered whiskey.”

“Let’s drink some rye,” Elena openly displayed her enthusiasm.

“Touche.”

In the United States, by law, rye whiskey must contain at least 51% rye. Other ingredients used for the mash are typically corn and malted barley. Rye must be a minimum of 40% alcohol, and aged in charred new oak barrels. Rye whiskey must also have been aged for a minimum of two years to be designated as “straight” rye whiskey. The resulting spirit is acclaimed due to its distinctive flavor. Rye whiskey is primarily known for the spicy and fruity flavor that it adds to whiskey.

“Grisha, I am curious about something,” Elena paused for effect. “Considering that rye was originally America’s whiskey of choice for cocktails over bourbon, how do they differ?”

“Cocktails made with rye tend to be drier than the same drink made with bourbon,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “Once prohibition was lifted, the popularity of bourbon was on the rise. The only people left drinking rye, were the lonely old fellows sitting at the end of the bar.”

Our first selection is the the perfect introduction to rye whiskey. Sazerac Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey has been aged for 6 years. It is a deep amber in color and the nose is filled with the dense aromas of vanilla and apricot, with an array of spices including clove, anise, and pepper. On the palate, the rye comes more into play. It is full-bodied and there is a healthy dose of spices, citrus, toffee nut and charred wood. The finish is creamy and smooth with licorice and smoked pepper tones. Sazerac Rye is 45% alcohol and a great value at $30. America’s premier cocktail, “The Sazerac” has long been synonymous with the city of New Orleans. Sazerac Straight Rye Whiskey was used to make the original cocktail.

“There are a lot of flavors,” Elena smiled with delight. “I can see why it is popular with bartenders.”

“Precisely,” I flashed her a quick smile. “In New Orleans, rye whiskey is Sazerac.”

Our next selection was Hudson Manhattan Rye. This is an interesting whiskey that has been aged for two years. It is a rich amber in color. The nose is filled with the aromas of cashew butter, figs, and rye bread. On the palate, Hudson is fruity, medium bodied, and nicely balanced. There are flavors of spice, honeyed grain, and a distinct woodiness with just a hint of sweetness at the end. The finish is not only excellent, there is a certain charm to Hudson. Hudson Manhattan Rye is 45.1% alcohol and a price tag of $45. Prior to Prohibition, New York was renown for its rye whiskey. Jenny Churchill, Sir Winston’s mother, is reputed to having made the Manhattan Cocktail famous.

“I love the complexity of Hudson,” Elena savored her drink. “Yet there is a certain savoir- faire with this one that I especially like.”

“I agree. Hudson is light and versatile, and at its best in a cocktail”

Our next selection was Reservoir Straight Rye. This is a Classic American whiskey out of Virginia. It is a handcrafted spirit that has been double distilled and aged to perfection in charred new American oak barrels. Deep russet in color, it is big and bold. The nose is densely packed with aromas of honey, spices, vanilla, and oak. Reservoir is full bodied and rich. The rye grain shows through strong and sharp on the palate. As it continues to evolve, Reservoir evokes a complexity that is unsurpassed. It is earthy and full of oak. The finish is distinctly long and memorable. Reservoir Straight Rye is 50% alcohol wit a price tag of $80. This is definitely a sipping rye and a definite must add to the serious whiskey-lover’s collection. Perhaps an ice cube to soften the flavors.

“A very complex and memorable whiskey that I found most enjoyable,” Elena’s eyes crinkled as she smiled. “Reservoir is definitely your palate.”

“I am glad you enjoyed Reservoir, and you didn’t even need the ice cube,” I chuckled softly.

Our last selection was Old Portrero Single Malt out of San Francisco, California. The Portrero Hill Distillery uses a copper pot still and produces their uniquely American whiskey from mash of 100% rye malt. It is aged for three years in new charred oak barrels. It is made in the traditional style of America’s earliest distillers and exemplifies a rye whiskey of wonderful character.
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It is a deep amber in color and very smoky on the nose. It is laced with aromas of old leather and molasses. On the palate it is rich and full bodied. The dominant flavors are molasses, spice, and just a hint of vanilla. The finish is sweet , flavorful, and lingers for a moment as it fades into a light smokiness. This is a whiskey that one can sit and enjoy by the fireside on those cold San Francisco nights. Old Potrero Single Malt is 45% alcohol and a price tag of $100.

“A bit nostalgic. Longing for home?” Elena playfully teased. Old Potrero was quite interesting but a bit too smokey for my palate.”

“This is a unique whiskey with a character and flavor all its own,” I replied with a nod. “I think this is one that Scotch drinkers would prefer.”

“Scotch? When will we be doing a tasting on Scotches?” Elena toyed with me.

“Soon, but that my friends is another story …”

Gregory Alonzo: Single Malt Vodka? Surely You Jest

February 28, 2013 by evebushman

A few years ago, I was enjoying some vodka with my best friend John Sherer. I was going on and on about the virtues of Polish rye vodka, when John shocked me with a question.

“Dude, have you ever tried single malt vodka?” he queried.

John’s question was enough to stagger a billy goat. “Single malt vodka?” I stammered and shook my head in dismay. “Surely you jest.”

“I’m not joking,” he playfully punched me in the arm. “I read an article that stated the best vodka in the world was from Scotland and it was single malt.”

“Scottish vodka, now I was sure that I had been kicked in the stomach.”

My next thought was a scene right out of the James Bond film, ‘You Only Live Twice.’ Once 007 had dispatched one of the henchman, who was an enormous Sumo wrestler, Bond reaches for a bottle of vodka and drank deeply.

“Siamese vodka,” Bond grimaced as he shockingly read the label. Vodka aficionados worldwide erupted euphorically as Sean Connery so convincingly shared his disdain at the thought of a vodka distilled in Thailand.

Today I am once again joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. We are at my flat in Kyiv and I am ready to introduce Elena to some premium single malt vodkas.

“Grisha,” I am very excited that you invited me for this tasting,” Elaina’s eyes sparkled with anticipation. “The notion of a single malt vodka intrigues me.”

What exactly is single malt and why is this considered a bit strange to most vodka connoisseurs? In a nut shell, single malt is essentially whiskey unblended with any other malt. Malt is barley or any other grain that has been steeped, germinated, and dried. In the United Kingdom, the term “single malt” is typically used when referring to scotch whiskey. Single malt must be made solely from malted barley, distilled in a pot still, and aged for a minimum of three years. In the States, however, single malt denotes rye whiskey as opposed to barley.

“So what is meant by single malt vodka?” Elena queried.

“Most often, single malt vodka is 100% malted barley as the only ingredient.”

“Can it be aged?” Elena seemed a bit puzzled.

Yes, of course.”

“Knowing your penchant for 10 and 25 year old rye vodka from Poland,” Elena’s eyes sparkled into a small smile. “Today should prove to be most interesting.”

“Ah, Starka, my favorite of all vodkas,” I nodded in fond reflection. “But that is for another time and another tasting.”

Our first selection hails from Canada. Still Waters is handcrafted in small batches. The distiller is quite proud that only the finest two-row malted barley, purified water, and yeast is used in the making of this triple-distilled vodka. Still Waters also boasts that a small custom-made pot still is used to craft a smooth and clean spirit. Lastly, just prior to bottling, Still Waters is chill-filtered in order to attain pristine and crystal clarity.

“On the nose, I detected hints of malt,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “There is an interesting assortment of fruits.”

“It is much more scented than most vodkas,” I paused as I savored the vodka. “Perhaps a bit too scented.”

On the palate, we both found Still Waters to be a bit too sweet and the distinct flavor of malt and spice a trifle overpowering on this medium to full body vodka. The finish, though buttery and a bit sweet, was exceptionally smooth and with no burn. Overall, an interesting artisan vodka at 40% alcohol and a price tag of $35.

Our next selection hails from England. Sipsmith is another handcrafted small batch vodka produced entirely from malted barley. The distillers at Sipsmith affectionately boast about the most important member of their team is Prudence. Crafted in Germany, Prudence is the only copper still of its kind. It is believed that through the use of copper, the result will be a smooth and pure vodka with no need for filtration.

“I do not understand the nose on our Sipsmith,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “There is a subtle aroma of juniper with hints of spice and candied ginger.”

“I also have reservations on the nose of this vodka,” I nodded in agreement. “The floral juniper quality is more expressive of gin rather than vodka.”

We also found our Sipsmith to be extraordinarily soft, perhaps to a fault. The finish is lingering and dry with just a hint of pepper coming through. This artisan vodka has an alcohol content of 40% and a price tag of $40.

Our next selection hails from Scotland via New York. Valt is the brain child of two Scots who met in Manhattan. They proudly make the claim that their vodka is crafted solely by Scottish distillers, using only Scottish malted barley, and Scottish mountain water. So what emerges? According to the Scots, a refined and pure vodka with no equal.

The distillers at Valt also boast a quintuple micro-distillation technique in copper stills, which is uniquely their own.”

“Grisha,” Elena broke in. “What is quintuple?”

“Five times …”

She cut me off. “Stop showing off and let’s sample some Valt.”

“Budimo,” I toasted her as I poured our vodka.

“On the nose,” Elena began. “I found Valt creamy and strangely sweet.”

“I would liken the aroma to that of boiling fruit.”

We both agreed that on the palate there was the distinct flavor of barley with hints of vanilla and spice. The finish was of melting butter and toffee-like.
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Valt is uniquely Scottish and a whiskey drinker’s vodka. The alcohol content is 40% with a price tag of $45.

Our last selection came as a bit of a surprise. It is from the Italian company, Franciacorta, and It is called Single Vodka Single Malt 40. The literature reads like an advertisement for whiskey. They are proud to make the claim of using rare barley grain and a pot still process. Allow me liberty of paraphrasing the quote: “Single lives up to the tradition of great single malt whiskies with its bold character, satisfying the most demanding, inaugurating a new way of drinking and presenting vodka.”

Both Elena and I found Single Malt 40 floral on the nose. The mouth-feel was clean, crisp, light in character, and fishing with just a hint of delicate sweetness. An interesting attempt at a barley vodka from Franciacorta. The company is known primarily for its grappas and liqueurs.
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This single malt entry is 40% alcohol and priced at $60.

Both Elena and I found single malt vodkas to be distinctly barley like in character, exceptionally smooth, and somewhat sweet. Perhaps it would be more appropriate to refer to single malt vodka as “white whiskey.”

We did put our single malts to the test with a few cocktails. Elena preferred Cosmopolitans with Valt and I found Sipsmith to make an interesting Bloody Mary, but that my friends is another story …